Butt Bolt, Solatok & Prince Charming

Toy Properties

Form: Dildo
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors:
Sokatik & Prince Charming: Natural Tan, Deep Brown and Black
Butt Bolt: Silver and Gold
Custom colors possible
Firmness: Soft to Medium, custom degrees possible
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Mr Hankey

Construction

The basis of all Mr Hankey toys is platinum silicone which refers to the catalyst to cure silicone. Unlike other metals used like tin which is often used for cheap silicone, platinum is hypoallergenic and doesn’t cause adverse effect inside the body. Other welcome effects of using a noble material like platinum is a high resistance towards acid and heat. This properties in combination of the silicone’s super-smooth surface makes these toys very easy to clean: Either put them in hot water with an acid cleaner or even auto-clave them. Being sanitized so easily, these toys are ideal when playing with multiple partners in a safe way because they can be quickly sterilized between scenes. As always with silicone toys, never use them with silicone lube because the silicone oils inside the lube can damage the toy.

The Mr Hankey Butt Bolt, Solatok & Prince Charming

There are two firmness degrees to choose from: Medium and 75% firm. As the name already states, the medium is not solid but has a considerable give yet makes the texture very noticeable. The 75% firm is soft and squishy which is a good texture for riding heavily textured toys hard without injury risk. You can order a custom firmness but the ones offered are actually ideal: Go any smoother, and the dildo could collapse, go harder an when playing roughly, there is a chance of hurting yourself.

Detail of the Vac-U-Lock Hole

The off-the-rack colors offered by Mr Hankey depend on the toy, but are rather dull and standard. I highly recommend investing the extra $29.95 for a custom color like I did on mine. For the Solatok I chose a dark blue highlights over a light blue base color, making it look a bit like Sam the Eagle. My Prince Charming is black base with green highlights giving it an alien, almost Zerg like appeal. Finally my Butt Bolt is a black and red marble, which cause some irritations with me: After an intense solo play scene, I cleaned my toys still being high on endorphins. When I washed the Butt Bolt I was briefly shocked if I severely injured my butt with all the dark blood covering the toy – until I realized it was just the toy’s color. All Mr Hankey dildos can be equipped with a Vac-U-Lock hole for $24.95 which makes sense for dildo-shaped anal toys, especially when you have a fuck machine.

The Prince Charming

All three toys have very distinct shapes and textures. The Butt Bolt’s body loosely resembles a cola can with a four-ridge thread around the body. The lower quarter of the body is smooth and tapers into a short neck which flows into a thick hexagonal base. Solatok has an equally dull tip with a noticeable “glans” rim which tapers into an only slightly thinner shaft. The front of the shaft is textured with four deep, scale-like ridges. The upper two thirds of the sides and back shaft is lightly textured by subtle vain-like ridges until it widens at the lower third to a thick knot.

The most extravagant toy of the three is without a doubt the Prince Charming. The basic shape of the tip is like a human’s glans but the surface is covered with small bumps and the glans rim with larger ones. Below the rim there is a significant drop in diameter. The shaft then widens again to about double the rim’s diameter. The shaft’s upper two thirds is textured with thick and deep humps and knots which are softened in the lower third by a cover.

Toy Size Overall Length Insertable Length Glans Rim Diameter Max Diameter
Butt Bolt Small 127mm 95mm 49mm 59mm
Large/ Extra Large 152mm 121mm 65mm 75mm
XXLarge 178mm 140mm 73mm 93mm
Prince Charming Small 191mm 165mm 69mm 89mm
Large/ Extra Large 220mm 197mm 81mm 105mm
XXLarge 249mm 229mm 95mm 121mm
Solatok Small 197mm 175mm 57mm 74mm
Large 248mm 222mm 72mm 97mm
XXLarge 305mm 276mm 89mm 121mm

The Butt Bolt

Playing with the Butt Bolt, Solatok & Prince Charming

All three toys even – even the small sizes – are not for the novice who can just barely take the minimum diameter of the glans rim. They are designed for well-stretched, loose sphincter which just needs a delightfully mean texture to tire out the hole at the end of a scene and scratch the unsoothable itch.

Each toy is interesting in its own way. The dull tip of the Butt Bolt makes it a challenge to insert. Once inside, the ridges of the threat massage/ scratch the delicate nerve endings inside the sphincter. My Butt Bolt is a LG/XL made out of 75% Firm silicone so the ridges easily flap but still a hard punch-fucking will make even experienced fistees squirm quickly. I cannot even imagine how a much meaner a firmer one will be. Since it is rather compact in size and the max-neck-diameter ratio is relatively high, the plug can stay inside the ass for extended periods of time, like a break inside the sling. For walking around, the base is too big and has too many edges. During this break, the sphincter will tighten again, making the pulling out even more agonizing.

The Solatok

The Solatok (ab)users “suffer” from the same challenge as the Butt Bolt: The dull tip. Once inside the ass, it is an interesting toy to play with. Since the upper part of the shaft is basically ¾ untextured and one quarter heavily textured, the sensation while riding or fucking Solatok can be precisely focused. For a more broader stimulation, twist the toy inside the sphincter and use the scales’ rim. Going a little bit deeper, Solatok’s massive knot will be a challenge for almost every anus. The knot increases in diameter quickly and steeply. While it tapers towards the base again, there is almost no space above the base, leaving little chance to relax when fucking with the dildo all the way.

The „Cover“ over Prince Charming’s Texture on the Lower Third of the Shaft

Finally, Prince Charming is almost two toys in one. First, there is the glans covered with bumps. While they make it hard to take and make an extraordinarily large amount of lube necessary, the glans with the big diameter drop below it is almost like a small, heavily textured toy. It is the ideal toy to tease inside the sphincter, especially when twisting it once inside. The shaft’s texture is a (w)hole different category. The wide, cone-shaped taper adds the quickly increasing diameter to the challenge of the heavily, knot-like humps and bumps. Again, either sliding over them or twisting the shaft inside the hole will give the heavies stimulation. But especially when attaching it to a fucking machine with the bottom bound so he cannot escape forward, is a unique, if not done with great care also dangerous struggling stretch sensation. Use with care!

Where to buy?

Mr Hankey sells their toys directly through their website. This is the best way to get them when you want to customize them even further. They also run promotions on a regular basis so check their page regular to snatch a bargain. Depending on the size and features, the Butt Bolt costs between $69.95 and $144.75, the Prince Charming $129.95 and $174.90 and finally the Solatok between $124.95 and $184.90. Custom colors costs $29.95, custom firmness $15.95.

SquarePeg Ripple & Vortex Slink

Vendor: Mr S Leather (USA & Canada) & Regulation (EU)

Form: Dildo
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: Graphite and Bronze
Firmness: Soft
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

About half a year ago I reviewed the two most popular depth toys from Square Peg: The Depth Probe and the “smooth” Slink. Since then I have gotten many reader questions about the Slink, especially the textured models which I will answer in this review.

The Square Peg Slink Smooth S, Vortex and Ripple M

I have also been getting questions about the Slink Spike and the Slink Stretch which exceeded my budget. If you want to fix that, feel free to get in touch 😉

Construction

Both Slinks have the same basic shape as the smooth one: At the bottom there is an oval, 20% larger than maximum stretch base which fits well between the ass cheeks. It can also be equipped with a suction cup, ideal for selfplay in the bathroom. On the base’s rim there is the toy’s name and size imprinted into. The base flows into a short tapered neck for long-term wearing or resting when getting fucked with the slink. The neck quickly extends to the maximum stretch which than tappers in very long cone to a pointy yet rounded tip.

Detail of the Slink’s Plug-style Neck

As the name already says, the Ripple’s body is covered with gentle, about 2mm deep grooves. The distance between the grooves starts out at about 20mm and gets smaller the closer they get to the tip. Around the Vortex’s body run four 6mm high ridges like on a wood drill.

The Vortex only comes in one size with an overall length of 500mm and a maximum stretch of 60mm which places it between the Medium and Medium/Large smooth Slink. The Ripple Slink comes in too standard Slink sizes medium (length 405mm and max. diameter 61mm) and large (length 533mm and max. diameter 69mm). Like all Slinks these two toys come in SuperSoft Bronze and Graphite. I have been asked numerous times why you can’t get it in Firm Black. Since the firmness and thus rigidness of a toy increases with the thickness, the bendiness the Slink needs to meander through the guts would be lost

Detail of the Vortex Helix-Style Ridge running around the Body

Playing with the Ripple & Vortex Slink

Since I already talked at length about the Slink as a depth toy, I want to focus on how the specific design features impact the play. First, the Ripple Slink. One of the “disadvantages” of the smooth Slink is, that it just smoothly flows inside the bowels. While this is good to train the butt, most of the feeling is lost. The Ripple fixes that because the grooves add a bit of friction. Not so much that it would be difficult to insert because they are not too deep and the edges are well rounded. But the sensitive nerve endings inside the guts and sphincter notice them. So it is a more “fun” sensation getting fucked with the Ripple compared to the smooth one. The grooves also divide the body a bit into sections which are points where it bends easier compared to the “solid” smooth body. This makes navigating inside twisted passages easier.

Detail of the Ripple’s Grooves

The Vortex also introduces a new sensation. When twisting the toy, the helix-like ridges create an intense sense of motion rarely felt on other anal toys. Especially deep inside the guts it is a weird, unusual though by for most of my testees not unpleasant sensation. While the Ripple’s bendiness is good for exploring willing guts, the Vortex is ideal for bowels which are a bit challenging. The ridges add sturdiness but if you hold it loosely, it will twist in the way of lowest resistance and find its way. The inner organs are a delicate body area so please always be cautious! A bit of force is ok with the Vortex, too much can cause serious injuries! Also, through the large surface area, the Vortex needs considerably more lube than the smooth or Ripple Slink!

Detail of the Slinks‘ Base with the Size and Product Name

While both toys are great to explore ones hole deeper, since they are too thin on the deeper end to prepare for real depth fisting. They are more toys to straighten the bowels out, accustomed them to the sensation of mechanical stimulation which ultimately makes relaxing easier during deep fisting. For stretch training the gateway to the guts, I recommend the Long Neck which I will be reviewing in a few weeks.

Where to buy?

When I am in the USA or Canada, I get my SquarePeg toys from Mr S. The Slink Ripple costs between $119.95 and $159.95 and the Vortex Slink $195.95. In Europe, Regulation has the widest selection and actually lowest price of SquarePeg toys. The Slink Ripple costs between £119.99 and £159.99 and the Slink Vortex £179.99. Regulation carries most toys only in SuperSoft Bronze. If you want them in a Graphite, add the Bronze to your cart and write in the checkout notes you want it in a different color. They then will order it for you which usually takes about 2 to 3 weeks.

Crackstuffers Rough Rider

Toy Properties

Form: Dildo
Material: Vinyl
Colors: Blue
Firmness: Hard
Lube: Water & Silicone
Cleaning: Soaking in warm water with dish-soap, then use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store standing in a well-ventilated place, not touching other toys to prevent damaging the toys.

Vendor: Mister B

Construction

The Crackstuffers Rough Rider is a typical shape dildo. It starts out with a nicely tapered tip which takes up about 20% of the total length.

The Crackstuffers Rough Rider

The shaft is textured with rings of six bumps; the number of bumps per ring goes down as the size decreases. Each bump is a half-dome measuring 20mm in diameter and 7mm height on the large model reviewed here. There are a total of 7 rings with each other ring is offset by 30° so entire sphincter is stimulated while riding it. An unwanted texture is the joint which runs around the entire toy which is typical for anal toys made out of vinyl.

The Rough Rider comes in three sizes.

Size Diameter Shaft Diameter

With Bumps

Length
S 3.2cm 4.8cm 25cm
M 5.5cm 6.3cm 26cm
L 7.2cm 8.6cm 28cm

Detail of the Bumps

Playing with it

From the name Rough Rider sounds vicious but it is actually a good toy for people to start out into the world of textured anal toys. The tapered tip allows the dildo to penetrate the sphincter easily before the bumps stimulate the sensitive sphincter. Since the toy is made out of vinyl which is soft, the bumps also give in. Compared to ridges or grooves bumps are the easiest to take texture, especially when they have such a gentle rising like the ones on the Rough Rider.  The sensation’s intensity can be controlled via the speed and force the dildo gets thrust into the hole. So the Rough Rider also offers some challenge for the anally experienced.  Despite the tip’s being optimized for easy entry, the hole should be pre-stretched to the diameter including the bumps to avoid injuries when fucking harder.

Detail of the Tapered Tip

While the play with the Rough Rider is great, the handling is difficult. Especially with the small and somewhat the medium size, the length to diameter ration is too far off to allow the dildo to stand up on its own which makes it hard to ride. A  suction cup or even a wider base would have been nice, especially since the small version in a length realm where the entire toy could be swallowed whole. The lack of a base is also problematic when topping with the toy. With the perfectly circular shaft and except the bumps no texture, it is actually hard to hold on to the toy with lubey hands. Again, a base would have been nice. There is a Truncheon version of the Rough Rider, which adds a grip and a crossguard-style stop at the end of the insertable part. But it features fewer bumps which are all in line so there stimulation is less intense.

Detail of the Joint Running Around the Toy

Where to buy?

The Crackstuffers Rough Rider can be bought at Mister B between 46.40€between 46.40€ and 89.30€ depending89.30€ depending on the size.

Fetish Pads

The Fetish Pad in the Natural Habitit: Protecting Delicate Hardwood Floor during Messy Play

Vendor: The Kinksters

Construction

These pads are a kinky version of the medical products used for people with incontinence or to cover the changing tables of babies. The bottom is made out of water-proof foil and covered by a gauze-like material which covers – in this case two layers of – absorbing cellulose. The Fetish Pads also follows this product category’s standard sizing. The entire pad measures 59x86cm of which the absorbing padding measures 53.5×75.5cm. They are sold in cases of 15.

What distinguishes this product from the medical ones is the one hand color: The medical ones come in blue and green, sometimes even in white. But the Fetish Pad is made in the kink scene’s favorite color black. Because the gauze is only semiopaque, the absorbing surface has a cloudy charcoal color.

Left: Bottom’s Water-proof Foil
Right: Absorbing Padding

Playing with the Fetish Pads

There are countless forms of play in which the Fetish Pads can be used. The most obvious are piss play, either the “traditional” one or pup play in terms of house training. To create a larger area for piss or gunge play I recommend to overlap several pads and tape the gaps from both sides. They are also useful for fisting. Place them under the bottom’s directly ass or the sling to absorb lube or piss after bladder stimulation. I usually travel with pads when playing in hotels because unlike a play sheet they do not take away much space and I can simply throw away after the scene. For this purpose, the Fetish Pads are clearly superior to their medical counter parts which are usually stiffer. The Fetish Pads are soft and easily curve around the body so there are no gaps where liquids could escape. Furthermore the pads can take quite a bit of beating without tearing so the liquids are even well contained when an active bottom is placed on them.

Detail of the Interior of the Absoring Padding

But what disappointed me a bit was their absorption capacity. To test the pads, I evenly poured a liter of water over them. While the cellulose quickly absorbed the water where it hit, the pad struggled to absorb the full amount of liquid. A liter might sound excessive but keep in mind that is poured it evenly over the entire absorbing surface, something which is far from a real-life situation. So for example during fisting if a bottom getting fisted pisses himself or lots of lube flows out of his ass, the area of the liquid hitting the pad will be very small. Since a person lying on them creates a depression, the unabsorbed liquid will linger there, making it uncomfortable over time. So for heavy fetish play, I would have liked there to be four or even six cellulose layers for more capacity.

And finally, there is the price: At £1.73 per pad, they are rather pricy for a “use and throw away without worrying too much”-item. So in the end it all comes down to how important the color coordination with the gear and the playroom is for a kinkster in need of absorbing pads.

Conclusion: Styling yet expensive absorbing pads with limited capacity
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Stylish Design Limited absorption power The Kinksters £25.99
Sturdy build Expensive

McHurt Rubber Paddles

Vendor: McHurt

The McHurt Plain Rubber Paddle and Rubber Paddle with Holes

I sometimes get messages from rubber fetishist who are looking for impact implements made out of their favorite material. I already reviewed the rubber implements sold by Mr S and the vicious Ballistic Metal Viper but I guess you can never have enough spanking toys.

Construction

Today I will be reviewing to paddles: A plain oval one and a rectangular one with holes in the impact section. Both paddles are made out of industrial rubber which is different from the latex used for fetish play because aging protectors and antioxidants are added in the manufacturing process. Because of this you do not apply talc powder or silicone oil when storing the paddles or have to worry too much when they come in contact with oil or fat (though you should also not test their resistance too much). Of course rubber still is a hard to treat and delicate material. So the paddles do not look as refined and spotless as leather or wood paddles. But they have been executed perfectly. All the sharp edges from the water saw have been broken and deburred to prevent unintended cuts. The grip on both paddles are two thick pieces of screwed through the body with two sturdy bolts. So much for the similarities.

Detail of the Plain Paddle’s Rough Side

The plain paddle has an overall length of 30cm, half of it for the grip. The oval shaped impact section is 15cm long and measures 8cm at the widest spot. The body is made out of 6mm thick rubber which as a smooth and a rougher surface which comes from the manufacturing process. The rubber is just thin enough to still be floppy.

The other paddle is equally long and has the same grip length. The impact section is also 8cm wide but rectangular. Three rows with two holes each have been drilled into the surface to allow air to travel through them. The body is made out of two 6mm thick rubber pieces glues together on the rough side so you have a smooth surface on both sides. To strengthen the tie, seam runs around the paddle.

Playing with the Paddles

Detail of the Stichting

Through their unique construction, they produce unexpected sensations for rubber impact implements. First, let’s look at the plain paddle.

Usually, you could not make a long-lasting paddle out of 6mm thick rubber because it would break too easily. McHurt fixed that through the reinforced grip. The grip also focuses the kinetic energy purely on the impact section. Because of that the paddle can be used for light tapping and actually also warm-up. Increasing the power quickly transforms the tapping sensation into pure sting. The sting is a bit dulled when using the rough surface but it also adds an abrasive sensation. Especially when spanking powerful the plain paddle colors quickly. Sadly through the thick grip, the paddle is a bit unbalanced towards the grip.

The paddle with holes is a completely different matter. Through the weight, stiffness and denseness of the double layered rubber it is a thuddy bruiser. So it should only be used on well-padded body areas to prevent unintended injuries. The paddle does not really color that much but when it does, it leaves bruises. Due to the holes there is no air cushion softening the impact. So it is not for the faint of heart. To be honest, compared to other rubber paddles it takes quite some power to make the sub scream with this paddle. But luckily the paddle is well balanced so the wrist does not tire out easily.

Detail of the Grip’s Bolts

Rubber is a good material for sever spankings because is the sub starts to bleed or the impact pushes out tissue water, rubber can easily be sanitized. Simply wash the paddle with warm water and dish soap and spray with sanitizer after is tried.

How to get the Paddles

Even though McHurt has an online store, they do not sell everything on there – which sadly also applies for these paddles. Also, they are not located in the kinky part of town but in an inconspicuous corner store close to Tempelhof. So if you are interested in them, either drop them an e-mail or take the time to visit their store. They carry a lot of spanking toys you do not see everywhere so the trip is worth the way!

Conclusion: Uniquely designed rubber paddles with a wide range of sensations
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sturdy design Plain paddle is not well balanced McHurt Approx. 30€ each
Easy to clean Due to material rough execution

 

AXIS

Vendor: ElectraStim

The ElectraStim AXIS

For over 5 years, I have been doing reviews of e-stim power boxes and electrodes on this website. Through the annual E-Stim Specials and e-stim being one of my favorite things as a bottom, I have earned a bit of a reputation of being an e-stim expert. So naturally I was thrilled when ElectraStim approached me in late 2018, asking me if I would be interested in beta-testing a top secret project: Their new state of the art power box AXIS. They sent me a beta version I have played around for a couple of weeks now.

My review sample being a beta version makes this review a bit special. Due to the NDA I signed, this review is purely based in my own experience. No testee panel members were involved. Also ElectraStim told me that the software was not 100% final so there might be minor changes or little glitches in the user interface for example. I did not encounter these glitches. However, I will update this review along the lines of the production unit’s “proper” testing. Finally, the packaging and what comes with the box was also not a 100% final. As soon as I receive the real deal, I will do an unboxing [Update Feb 3rd 2019: The unboxing of the production unit has been published].

With that in mind, let’s cut to the chase…

Construction & Operating AXIS

The design of the AXIS follows the one of the other ElectraStim power boxes: The case itself is a made out of a sturdy black polymer with a soft-touch surface. The control panel on the top is framed by a silver bezel while the panel itself has a silver-sparkling charcoal color. On top of the control panel there is a 35x20mm turquoise light LED matrix display. In the top left and top right corner a little number indicates the current power level of the left and right channel. Between them there is the current program set written and the battery level indicator. The lower 4/5th of the screen is divided by a dotter line which separates an area for each channel to visualize the stimulation and/ or output level of the currently selected program either through blinking or diameter-changing circles (wave and pulse set) or a bars (flick, tilt, proximity, microphone and line-in set). Below the display is the photocell which can detect proximity as well as movement direction up to 10cm distance.

The Control Panel of AXIS

The lower half of the panel is covered by the control buttons. On the left and on the right are the power up/ power down buttons for the two channels. When keeping the “Up” bottons pressed, there is a  1 1/2 second lag before the intensity goes up quickly which is a useful safety feature against operation errors. On the way down, the lag is considerably shorter with half a second. Though if something goes wrong, never turn the box down. Just pull the lead out of the socket. A weird quirk of AXIS is that the maximum intensity is set at level 50 instead of 99 or 100. This is not only counter-intuitive, but makes the communication when maxing the unit a bit awkward. “I took you all the way to 50.” does not really inspire. I already communicated this impression to ElectraStim and I hope they fix it in an update.

Detail of the 2mm Lead Sockets of AXIS

In the middle of the upper row is a button labeled “M” for going through the seven program sets (wave, pluse, flick, tilt, proximity, microphone and line-in) and finally the configuration menu. To choose a stimulation pattern inside a set, press the button with the two arrows forming a circle located just below the “M” button. In order to select it, leave the cursor on the setting for 3 seconds and it will be selected. When pressing the double arrow button while stimulation firing, it will take you to the selection menu of the current set. Every time a new stimulation pattern is selected, the output level is set to zero on both channels.  The lowest button is the power button which turns the unit on and off.

The rest of the box is fairly standard stuff: On top of the case there are two 2mm sockets for the leads, at the bottom there is a 3.5mm line-in, a micro-USB port for charging and the microphone.

Measuring just 112x70x23mm and weighing just 116g, the AXIS is the lightest and smallest of the high-end power boxes. This attribute is bought by the fact that instead of using 9V block batteries, the AXIS has built-in lithium-ion battery. Depending on the stimulation intensity, it will last for about 6 hours. However, if you run out of battery life mid scene, you are screwed. Not only do you have to have a power bank or a USB power supply and a micro-USB cable at hand but the unit can’t be used while charging! To get from zero to 80% takes about an hour, the last 20% will take an additional three.

Detail of the Photocell for the Proximity Programs

Playing with AXIS

Little preview: The AXIS is currently the most versatile power box on the market. But this comes with a price: The Arduino inside the box takes 11 seconds to boot. What is extra irritating are the first 3.5 seconds until the display is initiated. During this time I often wondered if the box actually started or not.

The sophisticated hardware allows for some nice features. In the settings menu, there is a “Run Time” info which tells you how often you have powered up AXIS, how long you have used it in total and how long is has been since the box has been powered up this time. Especially for extreme e-stim aficionados is the “Nerd Mode”. It turn additional information of the current running programs of Wave, Pulse and Tilt on, like the frequency at the bottom of the screen, below the program visualization. In all modes there is a little thick bar at the bottom of the separation line in the middle of the screen. The higher the bar, the more energy is consumed.

Detail of the Display Reading of a Pulse Program in Nerd Mode

Usually in this part of an e-stim power box review comes the description of the programs. But AXIS has a whopping 47 (!) build in. So for the sake of reading flow, I put the large table below my conclusion box at the end of the article. What I found a bit disappointing was the fact that I could not modify any of the programs. I received the AIXS beta pack without a manual, so I had to discover the box and features on my own. When I turned on Nerd Mode with the details of the program displayed on the screen, I intuitively expected to be able to modify them. But no key combo worked. So I got in touch with ElectraStim and they confirmed that indeed the programs cannot be altered – yet. It is the beauty of the Arduino inside that it is such a powerful SoC which leaves space for development. The company said that the master mind behind AXIS’ development will look into adding the manipulation feature to the programs if possible.

My Run Time Statistic at the End of my Testing Period with the Beta Unit

In other e-stim power box reviews I already talked about in length what evil things can be done using a microphone (for example a self-enforcing circle of pain once the sub starts screaming), the line-in (like using a synthesizer to “play” your own programs) or the movement sensor. The newest sensor is the proximity sensor which yields hours of devious fun. Just to give you some ideas: Hold it in front of a pendulum, use your sub as a screaming “light barrier” at a passage or let him participate on another sub getting spanked or fucked by a fuck machine. Placing the motion sensor is a bit tricky and takes some time to figure out, but once figured out, it is a devilish tool.

Just like its (grand)father the SensaVox, AXIS s a very powerful unit! Using the ElectraStim Prestige ElectraLoops with a wave program, I started to notice the sensation with AXIS at 10% of the maximum intensity, while I had to take the E-Stim Systems 2b and the ErosTek ET312b up to 18% of the maximum intensity.

Detail of AXIS Bottom’s Interfaces from Left to Right: 3.5mm Jack for Audio Line-In, MicroUSB Port for Charging, two Microphones

Speaking of comparing it to the main competitors: What I personally did not miss but probably many will, is a remote control feature. With E-Stim Systems’ Connect service for the 2b, they set the bar for easy to use and powerful remote e-stim scenes. Maybe it will be one of the features added later in an update but. But if you are looking for a box for web cam scenes, look elsewhere. If you are looking for the most versatile, scene layout creativity inspiring and deviant e-stim power box out there, get AXIS!

ElectraStim will be accepting pre-orders starting Jan 7th 2019 and according to my latest information, they will start shipping on Jan 15th 2019. Furthermore, I have not yet been told the price. As soon as I get new pieces of information, I will publish them here and on Twitter.

Conclusion: Powerful e-stim powerbox with many sensors for creative scenes.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Powerful Programs can’t be modifies ElectraStim £349
Plethora of diverse programs No remote control feature
Many different sensors
Max intensity is labeled 50
Graphic display with intuitive visualization
Battery not exchangeable
Light and compact
Can’t be used while charging

 

Program Description

Number Program Name Description
Wave 1 Continuous Continuous output.
Wave 2 Synchronized Slow Long wavelength with synchronized output on both channels.
Wave 3 Synchronized Fast Short wavelength with synchronized output on both channels.
Wave 4 Alternating Slow Long wavelength with alternating rising and falling of the channels.
Wave 5 Alternating Fast Short wavelength with alternating rising and falling of the channels.
Wave 6 Escalate Synchronized Wavelength gets shorter over time and then drops to starting length, synchronized output on both channels. Cycle length: 70 seconds.
Wave 7 Escalate Alternating Wavelength gets shorter over time and then drops to starting length, alternating rising and falling of the channels. Cycle length: 70 seconds
Wave 8 Builder Synchronized Number of waves per wavelength increases as wavelength gets shorter, synchronized output on both channels. Cycle length: 58 seconds
 Wave 9 Builder Alternating Number of waves per wavelength increases as wavelength gets shorter, alternating rising and falling of the channels. Cycle length: 58 seconds
Wave 10 Tripple Synchronized Set of three slow, medium and fast waves each, synchronized output on both channels. Cycle length: 18 seconds
Wave 11 Tripple Alternating Set of three slow, medium and fast waves each, alternating rising and falling of the channels. Cycle length: 18 seconds
Pulse 1 Synchronized Slow Slow pulses of stimulation, synchronized output on both channels.
Pulse 2 Synchronized Fast Fast pulses of stimulation, synchronized output on both channels.
Pulse 3 Alternating Slow Slow pulses of stimulation, alternating rising and falling of the channels.
Pulse 4 Alternating Fast Fast pulses of stimulation, alternating rising and falling of the channels.
Pulse 5 Escalate Synchronized Pulses that increase in speed and slow again, synchronized output on both channels. Cycle Length: 83 seconds.
Pulse 6 Escalate Alternating Pulses that increase in speed and slow again, alternating rising and falling of the channels. Cycle Length: 83 seconds.
Pulse 7 Penetrate Synchronized Simulation time of each pulse increases, synchronized output on both channels. Cycle length: 38 seconds
Pulse 8 Penetrate Alternating Simulation time of each pulse increases, alternating rising and falling of the channels. Cycle length: 38 seconds
Pulse 9 Cascade Synchronized Pulses start slow and increase in speed, synchronized output on both channels. Cycle length: 10 seconds.
Pulse 10 Cascade Alternating Pulses start slow and increase in speed, alternating rising and falling of the channels. Cycle length: 10 seconds.
Pulse 11 Spank Synchronized 1 pulse – 2 sec rest – 2 pulses – 2 sec rest – 3 pulses – 2 sec rest, synchronized output on both channels. Cycle length: 8 seconds.
Pulse 12 Spank Alternating First cannel 1: 1 pulse – 2 sec rest – 2 pulses – 2 sec rest – 3 pulses – 2 sec rest, then channel 2: 1 pulse – 2 sec rest – 2 pulses – 2 sec rest – 3 pulses – 2 sec rest. Cycle length: 15 seconds.
Flick 1 CH1 + C2 Both channel fire depending on movement intensity. Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.
Flick 2 CH1 only Channel 1 fires depending on movement intensity. Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.
Flick 3 CH2 only Channel 2 fire depending on movement intensity. Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.
Flick 4 CH1 + CH2 Inverted Channel 1 increases in stimulation while channel 2 decreases, depending on movement intensity. Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.
Flick 5 CH1 Inverted + CH2 Channel 1 decreases in stimulation while channel 2 increases, depending on movement intensity. Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.
Tilt 1 CH1 + C2 Both channels fire depending the on orientation. When AXIS is turned upside down the intensity is 0, laying flat it is 50% and upright is it 100%. Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.
Tilt 2 CH1 only Channel 1 fires depending the on orientation. When AXIS is turned upside down the intensity is 0, laying flat it is 50% and upright is it 100%. Selected intensity is the maximum intensity.
Tilt 3 CH2 only Channel 2 fires depending the on orientation. When AXIS is turned upside down the intensity is 0, laying flat it is 50% and upright is it 100%. Selected intensity is the maximum intensity.
Tilt 4 CH1 + CH2 Inverted Both channels fire depending the on orientation.

Channel 1: When AXIS is turned upside down the intensity is 0, laying flat it is 50% and upright is it 100%.

Channel 2: When AXIS is upright the intensity is 0, laying flat it is 50% and turned upside down is it 100%.

Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.

Tilt 5 CH1 Inverted + CH2 Both channels fire depending the on orientation.

Channel 1: When AXIS is upright the intensity is 0, laying flat it is 50% and turned upside down is it 100%.

Channel 2: When AXIS is turned upside down the intensity is 0, laying flat it is 50% and upright is it 100%.

Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.

Proximity 1 CH1 + C2 Both channels fire depending the on how close the object is. Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.
Proximity 2 CH1 only Channel 1 fires depending the on how close the object is. Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.
Proximity 3 CH2 only Channel 2 fires depending the on how close the object is. Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.
Proximity 4 CH1 + CH2 Inverted Both channels fire on 50% of selected intensity. The closer the object, the closer channel 1 gets to 100% and channel 2 gets to 0%.
Proximity 5 CH1 Inverted + CH2 Both channels fire on 50% of selected intensity. The closer the object, the closer channel 1 gets to 0% and channel 2 gets to 100%.
Microphone 1 CH1 + C2 Both channels fire depending detected noise volume. Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.
Microphone 2 CH1 only Channel 1 fires depending detected noise volume. Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.
Microphone 3 CH2 only Channel 2 fires depending detected noise volume. Selected intensity for each channel is its maximum intensity.
Microphone 4 CH1 + CH2 Inverted Both channels fire on 50% of selected intensity. The louder the detected noise, the closer channel 1 gets to 100% and channel 2 gets to 0%.
Microphone 5 CH1 Inverted + CH2 Both channels fire on 50% of selected intensity. The louder the detected noise, the closer channel 1 gets to 0% and channel 2 gets to 100%.
Line-In 1 CH1 Left + CH2 Right Stereo processing of input.
Line-In 2 CH1 Right + CH2 Left Only left stereo channel is used to turn into stimulation.
Line-In 3 CH1 + CH2 Left Only right stereo channel is used to turn into stimulation.
Line-In 4 CH1 + CH2 Right The stereo channels are inverted.

 

BenSWild Made to Measure Cockring

Vendor: BenSWild

For some kinksters a simple cockring is their entry into non-vanilla sex. It is the first time they are actively thinking about using a tool to improve their sex live and some start to wonder “If a good cockring can do so much for me, what might other toys do?” From there on, it is a slippery slope down the rabbit hole for most.

Because of that looking at read questions, cockrings are the most often asked toy category, even before anal toys and restraints. Most readers can be helped with one of the many good off-the-rack cockrings but there is a surprising large number of people who need something custom due to being too big, too small, too weirdly shaped, etc. Luckily I never had that problem but to get an educated opinion for this group of people, I commissioned a made to measure cockring at BenSWild this Folsom Europe.

BenSWild manufactures their cockrings out of solid stainless steel giving them a decent weight. The finish is flawless with smooth rounded edges and spotless surfaces. You can either have the cockring in polished or with a satin finish. Another surface option are one or two gouges, either round or v-shaped ones like I have.

While you can get cockrings with different surface designs from many manufacturers, what sets the BenSWild design apart is the shape: Instead of being a perfect circle they are shaped like a isosceles triangle with round corners. The advantage of this shape is it sits snuggly with little slag. This means the blood retaining effect is stronger while being more comfortable. I got longer lasting, harder erections and a bit more powerful orgasms compared to my old round stainless steel ring and a way more intense experience than from TPR cockrings like Oxballs makes them. The BenSWild cockring is so comfortable that I sometimes fell asleep wearing mine. This can actually happen more often than you might expect because the tighter fit means that the dick needs to be real soft in order to put it on or take it off. I probably have to get a new one because with my new PA piercing it has become a real struggle to squeeze the dick below the steel rim.

More important than customizing the look are the options when it comes to the functional aspect of the ring. For just 5€ you can make the inside of the ring convex. This makes putting the ring on extremely more easily, especially when you get wider rings. Since the skin contact area is smaller, the cockring can move a bit easier so it settles easily in the most comfortable position. The other options is width of the ring which can be chosen from 10mm up to a whopping 30mm in one millimeter steps. The width is important for a comfortable feel and to act a bit as a barrier for the cavernous body to erect against. Finding the right one is very much personal taste. A general rule of thumb is the more low hangers and/ or meatier the balls are, the wider the ring can be. I have a 20mm ring and am very happy with it. Other, cheaper cockrings are so thin that they cut the blood flow off in an uncomfortable way. This will not happen even with the 10mm wide version.

Finally, you need to figure out the correct size. You can either do it on your own using a tape measure to get the circumference of your junk’s base to calculate the diameter. Or if are lucky enough to meet the guys from BenSWild at an event, you can ask nicely to get the incredibly sexy cub who is the owner to measure you himself.

The cockrings which all come in a cool black carrying pouch are rather pricey, starting at 39€ and going up to 85€ for the largest, fully equipped model. But in my opinion (and in the many opinions of my friends who got BenSWild cockrings) it is worth the investment because they cannot only be used as a stylish napkin ring when the in-laws are coming for dinner but are so solid that they will last you a lifetime and bring you countless hours of fun.

Ass Blaster

Toy Properties Form: Tunnel Plug
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: Black and Red
Firmness: Medium Firm
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap
than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Storein a well-ventilated place not
touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Regulation

ToyTorture.com is now 6 years old and in this time I think I have gained some insight into the toy scene and what my readers are interested in. But sometimes, a toy comes along which provokes a reaction I did not anticipate. The Oxballs Ass Blaster is one of these toys. I have bought this toy to make a fantasy of mine come true and never thought I would review it. But the mandatory “Hey look, I have gotten a new toy”-post on Tumblr actually became the third popular of all my Tumblr posts. Since then every few weeks a message dropped into my inbox when I would be reviewing the Ass Blaster. So here it is, even thought there is not that much to “review”.

The Oxballs Ass Blaster

Conclusive,a word on the pictures for this review: Despite loving high quality platinum siliconeas a anal toy material, it is a nightmare to take pictures of! It attracts dustand fuzz the moment is leaves the water to clean the toy. Even microfiber dryingcloths or anti-static spray does not help. So, if anyone reading this has an ideahow to take nice pictures of silicone toys, please get in touch. To the other,please be gentle when judging the pictures.

The Plug of the Oxball Ass Blaster

Construction

The Ass Blaster is a two-part toy consisting off a funnel and a plug. The funnel has an opening diameter of 135mm and is approx. 120mm high. On one side of the funnel has a grip which can be used to attach it to a bondage harness in order to keep it upright. To the funnel’s nozzle a flexible  spout is attached which is approx. 130mm high when bend to a 90° angle. The funnel has a capacity of roughly 600ml and the spout an additional 100ml. The max. flow rate is about 4,000ml per minute which adds up to allowing two people with a strong piss stream to fill the funnel simultaneously without problems – if the bottom is receptive enough. At the bottom of the funnel there is a filter screen to keep solid objects from clogging the spout or nozzle.

The plug
comes in three sizes and is available in black and red. It has a roughly the shape
of a mortar bomb with a tapered head which due to the tunnel in the middle has
a rather dull tip. The three fins at the end are large and wide to allow
handling the Ass Blaster even with lubey fingers and to keep it from getting
sucked into a greedy ass even during long scenes. A nice touch is the caption A
S S on the outside of the fins. A lot of material has been used on the entire
toy thus the walls are rather thick. This makes it almost impossible for the
bottom to shut the flow with his ass.

Size Overall Lenght Insertable Length Neck Diameter Largest Diameter
Small 75mm 55mm 32mm 48mm
Medium 10mm 75mm 45mm 60mm
Large 125mm 95mm 50mm 75mm

The Ass Blaster’s Funnel

Playing with the Ass Blaster

The Ass
Blaster is kind of a one purpose toy: To turn the bottom’s ass into a urinal. A
friend of mine owns the small plug and has a bottom with a really large mouth
who can swallow the plug. Add a bit of tape to that and voila. But is has to be
noted that through the large size it will quickly tire out the sub’s jaw.

Unlike theother Oxballs piss toys (like the Recycler which I reviewed earlier this year,the Urinal Piss Gag or the Flush-Plug) the large opening which allows for two peopleto use it simultaneously, the large liquid filling quantity and high flow rateactually make this toy party urinal equipment. The piss flow straight into the rectumwhich distinguished the Ass Blaster from the Pig-Hole. Through the barrel shapeof the hollow plug a lot of piss does not flow into the bottom but stays insidethe plug. However, the Pig-Hole is a useful toy in combination with the AssBlaster. Through the dull tip the plug is actually more for the anal savvybottom. But if he is that trained, the actually size is rather small. While theplug might not fall out of his ass, the piss can easily leak. To prevent thisto a certain degree, simply put a Pig-Hole into the bottom’s ass and plug itwith an Ass Blaster.

Detail of the Ass Blaster’s Fin

Most rectums can only take about 500ml. While this can be trained over time, backflow or leakage at some point cannot be prevented. To facilitate the piss flow behind the inner sphincter and into the colon, the bottom should push his ass out in doggy position and lay down flat with his torso.

Where to buy?

You can
pick the small Ass Bluster up at Regulation for £59.90.

Wrist Binder

The 665 Leather Wrist Binder

Vendor: 665 Leather

Construction

The Wrist Binder look a bit like handcuffs from the early 20th century and is made milled out of 25mm thick aircraft-grade aluminum. The material makes them really light at 318g without compromising the sturdiness and rigidness. All edges have been properly deburred to prevent cuts and scratches. Out of the box the Wrist Binder have a beautiful stroke matting but since aluminum is a soft material it quickly gets tarnished with scratches.

Detail of the Hing Mechanism in Use

For comfortable wearing the wrists are put cuffs shaped like stretched ovals measuring 75x57mm. They are large enough even for larger wrists but small enough that a person with a M glove size and not too collapsible hands can’t pull them out. The two cuffs are connected by a twistable hinge. The cuffs are closed by pad locks which are put through eyelets on the top of the long side of the cuff. The eyelets have a diameter of 7mm which is a standard pad lock size just in case there is already a keyed-alike lock system in use. Otherwise the Wrist Binder came with two brass Master Locks. On each side, parallel to the hinge in the middle, there is an 13mm eyelet milled out of 9mm thick aluminum.

The Wrist Binder as shown on 665 Leather’s Website

Playing with the Wrist Binder

The Wrist Binder was a gift from a couple of friends for my birthday this March. It was on my wishlist because I was looking for restraints to incorporate into rope bondage. On 665 Leather’s website I found Wrist Binder pictured on the right: The look like a handcuff with a hinge on one side, an eyelet for a pad lock on the other side and two huge eyelets in the middle for rope. What my friends got from the US was what I am reviewing here. So I got in touch with 665 Leather, trying to get the item my friend ordered for me. I was told that on the website are pictures of the old version and I have gotten the new one. Roughly 9 months after my birthday the still have not changed the pictures on their website so I am not sure what toy will be sent when the “Wrist Binder” is ordered through the link below.

Detail of the Locking with the Pad Lock Shipped with the Toy

As a handcuff the Wrist Binder works really well. Through the ergonomic shape and the rounded edges they are comfortable to wear even for extended periods of time. The width of the aluminum, the ability to twist the wrists against each other and the fact that they can’t be retightened almost eliminates the risk of nerve damage which sometimes can occur when police handcuffs are worn too tight or for too long. If a stricter bondage is desired, a 300mm zip-tie can be used instead of pad locks. This will limit the ability to twist immensely.

But how does the Wrist Binder work incorporated in a bondage layout, using rope, chain or other means? For the original purpose – rope bondage – they do not work at all! Through the ability to twist, unintended pull and tangling can happen, messing up the rigging. In a testing scene I was actually forced to cut rope for the first time in my life because while twisting, rope got caught in the hinge!

Detail of how Easily the Satin Finish scratches

The position of the bondage anchor points are also unfortunate for attaching them easily to collars, shoulder restraints, etc. The top always has to use carabiners, chain or something else to create an anchor point above the wrists not next to them. For stress position, like the arms stretched out, I guess it is a bit better than the one on their website because through the twisting the hands can be brought into a somewhat more comfortable position if need. However, since the metal does not give in, a sub put into stress position using this restraint must be watched extra well!

Conclusion: Good handcuff with sadly little usage for the two bondage anchor points.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Secure and comfortable to wear for long periods of time … but hinge makes bondage anchor points difficult to use 665 Leather $78
Keyed-alike locks can be used  
Wrists can be comfortable positioned through hinge…

Slap Stick

My set of Carved Kink Slap Sticks made out of Iroko, Purpleheart and Teak

Vendor: Carved Kink

Addendum April 2019: Sadly the Purpleheart stick did not withstand my play long and broke during a scene at Easter Berlin. If I designed them again, I would make the wood at least 8mm thick. This would probably also improve the handling a bit.

Now I am very curious how the remaining two will hold up in the months to come.

Construction

The Slap Sticks are small, narrow wooden bats, almost like rulers. I experience them as a bottom at Inferno 46 last year and since I could not find them in any store, commissioned a set of three at Carved Kink this summer. A small Teak one measuring 15x200mm, a medium Purpleheart one in 20x250mm and a large Iroko with the dimensions of 25x300mm. Their thickness varies between 3mm and 5mm depending on the chosen wood and the size.

Detail of the Slap Stick’s Finish

All edges and corners are rounded and the surface is first perfectly sanded and then oiled to not only prevent splinters from forming or causing unwanted cuts but to really bring out the grain and character of the wood. To keep the Slap Sticks this way, they should be rubbed off with a cloth soaked in olive oil every few months. At the bottom of each bat there is a countersunk bole through which a thin leather strap is threaded. The leather loop is short and thus just for storage and not for attaching the Slap Stick to the wrist.

Playing with the Slap Stick

As the name already says, these mini-bats are made for slapping. Hold one of them between two or three fingers, take the other hand to pull is back and let the tip hit the bottom’s body. Their easiness to target and control predestinate the Slap Stick for CBT and TT to hit the nipple, individual balls or glans. But they are also great, bruising tools for general impact play. The targeted sensation comes close to a cane but since the stick lacks the flexibility of one it will leave the sub puzzled at first what has hit them. Other uses are body drumming or just tapping. Especially when tapping just one spot, an easily dismissed sensation will soon become an annoying and ultimately agonizing.

Detail of the Different Woods

The pain sensation depends on which area hits the body: The sides are a bit thuddy while the flat surface will create sting, the more intense the longer and narrower the stick is. Because the wood is so thin, the impact will make it oscillate adding a unique acoustic dimension to the spanking.

Handling the Slap Sticks properly takes some time and patience. As written in the last paragraph the Slap Sticks through the thinness are somewhat flexible and give in, but they are still thin wooden sticks which will break under too much force. They are made for delicate, targeted impact which develops over time instead of a brute-force spanking scene.

Detail of the Leather Loop for easier Storage

Being made out of wood and not having a sealed off surface, they are difficult to clean after a scene. I usually wipe mine off with a wet cloth and then use a sanitizing wipe. Never soak them in water because this will damage the wood! If you are doing heavier play, keep in mind that through the open pores of the wood, blood will leave stains on the bat.

Conclusion: Small, nifty and nasty impact toy for delicate play.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique combination of impact sensation and sound Difficult to clean Carved Kink Around  £10 per Piece depending on the size and wood
Customizable Can break easily when used incorrectly
Very well made
Beautiful surface through exotic woods