Kategoriearchiv: CBT

Toys to torture you balls and your dick

Ultimate Humbler

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The Ultimate Humbler with the Ball Stretching Ring & Crusher Plate

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

This humbler is made out of 35mm tall and 23mm wide bar made out of stainless steel. The corners and sides are rounded and there are no visible weldseams or sharp edges on the body of the toy. In the center is a 100mm long straight part onto which 180mm long, slightly curved wings are attached. In the center section, there is 40mm wide opening. On one side, the wall slightly bulges to the side, on the other side there is bulged hatch, creating a 35mm deep opening. The hatch’s hinge is slightly recessed which prevents skin getting caught. It is closed using a hex screw on top and a locking pin for a padlock with a tiny shackle in the bottom.

Left and right of the hole of the balls two 140mm long M6 threaded rods are welded. To smooth the sharp ends of the thread each rod comes with a PVC cap. But the sit so loosely that the fall off easily when the bottom moves a lot. That’s why I only have one left.

The Spiky Side of the Crusher Plate

Onto these rods two accessories can added. First, there is what looks like a 14mm tall ball stretcher ring with an internal diameter of 34mm. It is hinged and is also closed by a hex screw. If you turn the milled ring nuts below the wings which ride on the threaded rods, you can stretch the balls even further. If you want to add even more painful stimulation, the Ultimate Humbler comes with a round plate with surprisingly sharp pins which can be pressed against the ball using wing nuts. For a bist softer sensation, use the back side of the crusher plate.

Welded at both ends of the bar are eyelets with a diameter of 11mm. The weldseam is only at the top of the eyelet and rather short so it looks a bit frail. However, despite heavy play and putting a lot of draft on it, it did not fail.

There Eyelets on both Sides

Despite being made out of stainless steel sheet which has been bend into shape, the Ultimate Humbler with all attachments weights 1,250g.

Playing with the Ultimate Humbler

The Ultimate Humbler addresses one of the most annoying things about humblers in general: Putting it onto the ball. Traditional humblers are two pieces of wood with a small recess in the middle and tightening screws at the end. In the process either a ball slips or you catch scrotum skin between the two pieces. With this toy, you can easily and comfortably grab the balls, push them into the opening, close the hatch and are done with it. Now comes the tricky part: Due to the long threaded rods this humbler is a bit bulky so pulling the humbler behind the legs, twisting it by 90° and locking it behind the ass can be difficult. The threaded rods also limit the position the sub can be in: Standing or doggy position are as easy as the humbler allows it to be. Kneeeling can already be difficult and laying on the back is impossible.

The Hatch which locks the Ultimate Humbler onto the Sub’s Balls

This was not a big issue for me because the most fun I had with the Ultimate Humbler was when I incorporated it into more complex bondage setups while he could still move. Connecting the humbler to other restraints using the eyelets is great for even more stressful bondage than the humbler will force the sub into by itself. With a bit of rope or tension cords (use shackles if the eyelets are too small) you can build interaction loops where creating ease at one position builds stress at another point.

These kind of feedback loops are even more fun when playing with the pressure plate. Increasing the pressure will make the bottom squirm and move which leads to more tugging. The smooth side works a little bit better in combination with the stretching accessory because the wide rim of the stretcher provides more surface to flatten the balls against. Without it, compressing the scrotum against the rim of the balls hole can be an uncomfortable pain. The spiky side works equally will with or without the stretcher. But you have to be careful when using it. The spikes are really pointy and sharp! With enough pressure they can break the skin.

Weighing over a kilogram, just locking the Ultimate Humbler onto a standing sub’s balls can be the origin of intense fun play. First it dangles between his legs like a yoke, tugging on this balls. Then add some more weights or connect the eyelets to his feet. Finally, induce some pain either through caning or electro or wax whatever you like. As soon as he starts to move, the tugging effect will intensify. Just make sure he cannot move too much because thrashing ones thighs into the thread rods is no fun pain.

The Ultimate Humbler completely Assembled

While this is a great albeit bulky toy for heavy CBT enthusiast, it is sadly only made for a specific group of subs. He needs balls which are both hanging extreme low hangers and are big yet not too meaty. If you cannot fit the ball comfortably in a 40mm tall ball stretcher, they will be too tight. Due to the leverage and movement of the stretcher barely covering the 35mm height is not enough. Next, if his balls are too small, they will simply slip through. You can compensate for this a bit, if the balls hang low enough to fit into the stretcher accessory right away. But his sack must not be too meaty because otherwise it will not fit into the humbler’s opening or the stretcher accessory at all. In the past months, I had several subs who were so desperate to play with this toy but their physiology was not simply made for it.

So, if you are into heavy CBT, I recommend trying if you can fit into the toy, because it offers great play possibilities. But it is sadly not made for everyone.

Conclusion: Versatile yet very heavy humbler for guys with extreme low hangers into heavy CBT and complex bondage.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Various play possibilities Only made for big, not too meaty low hangers Regulation £109.95
Additional Bondage Points
Lockabel
Sturdy Heavy
Perpendicular threaded rods are cumbersome

Kink3D Strap Ring

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The Kink3D Strap Ring Base Ring

Vendor: Kink3D

Hey guys! It’s been a while! What I had planed to be a shortish early summer break was extended due to daytime work stress and other shit. But now that Locktober is approaching and some of you will be attending Folsom street fair in San Francisco next week where a lot of kink purchase will be made, I decided today would be a good time trying to come back.

Construction

The Strap Ring is a special feature version of the base ring you need to lock your Kink3D Cobra or Viper chastity cage onto your body. Left and right of the lock loops have been added through which belts can be threaded. The loops have a width of 27.5mm and a clearing of 8mm so one inch wide belts fit easily.  The ring is available in all the diameter sizes and ring styles – XD for smaller & tighter balls, curved for meaty low hangers – like the standard ring and comes either in black or white.

The Strap Ring Attached to a Viper

This version of the base ring was launched together with a 35mm wide neoprene waist straps made by Mr S in their traditional black edges/ color middle part design in their seven most popular colors to match their iconic neoprene accessories like harnesses. It comes in three sizes covering a range of 28’’ – 46’’ waists. The length can be adjusted with snap buttons either on both ends or at the back.

Playing with the Kink3D Strap Ring

Especially when you are wearing a larger cage or have massive or low hanging balls which require a larger gap between the cage and the base ring, the entire cage can shift forward. By doing so, it creates a compact and heavy package away from the body which can feel uncomfortable, can get momentum when moving or chafing which makes wearing the cage 24/7 more difficult. The new base ring together with the strap, pulls the locked junk towards the body. Sitting closer to the body, both its footprint and leverage/ momentum is minimized. This especially good when you wear looser underwear or do sports which include running or cycling. Despite the large mechanical forces between the legs when moving them quickly, the cage securely stays in place.

The Mr S Neoprene Strap around the Kink3D Viper

The level of security and fit under these circumstances surprised me since neoprene is so soft and stretchy. These properties also makes the strap is almost unnoticeable. If you adjust it carefully, it sits right below your belt on your hips. At the front, it has to sit lower in order for the belt not to press the lock into your groin. The comfortable softness and stretchiness comes at a small price: Serious morning wood will push the cage forward and drag the strap along.

The combination of strap and cage itself, is also a sexy look. Depending on the location, just wearing the combo, can be a look in itself. For upcoming outdoor events especially in San Francisco where you can get away with it, the strap can work as an anchor point for belt pouches. Just don’t over load them! As said before, neoprene is stretchty and will sag when weighted too much.

One small drawback has the neoprene strap: The end of the strap is finished with a metal fitting. Since the strap is 35mm wide, it takes a bit of fiddling to get that end through the 27.5mm wide loops. Once the ends have been pushed through, the strap sits securely inside the loops on the base ring.

The Strap Ring used as an Anchor Point for Mr S Harnesses, left with a Standard Carabiner, right with a Scissor Snap

A probably unintended but nifty use case is using the Strap Ring as a cockring anchoring point for harnesses with downward straps like the Mr S Trojan leather harness or Neoprene Crossbow harness. There used to be straps to put around cockrings to anchor these harnesses onto something when you wear gear without belt loops like sportswear or preferred a tighter V pointing straight to your junk. But they vanished some time ago. You can substitute these straps by using the Strap Ring as a cockring and snap the harness’ carabiners into the loops. If you want to do this, I highly recommend getting an at least one size larger ringer than you would get for locking your dick. Generally, a chastity cage base ring is a bit smaller than a cockring you wear for fucking all night long. Clipping your harness into the Strap Ring works best when the harness has scissor snap hooks on the end. Mr S used to only work with these kind of carabiners. A couple of years ago they started using standard carabineres where the lever can making opening a bit tricky.

Conclusion: Perfect combo to keep your massive chastity package close to your body.  
Pro Cons Where to get Price  
Solution to keep even the largest and heaviest chastity packages close to the body Strap ends are a bit too wide to thread easily through the loops Strap Ring $75
Mr S Neoprene Strap $30
Perfect for pairing with groin strap harnesses

Pain Sticks

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Please excuse the picture quality. I have shot these  in my hotel room with using a small camera and having no proper graphics program on my tablet. So this is raw made in Berlin 😉

Vendor: McHurt

Especially in the run up to events in Berlin like BLF Easter or Folsom Europe, I get many messages asking what my secret tips for kinky shopping in Berlin are. Which stores, away from the gayborhood and Blackstyle I can recommend. On the top of my list is always McHurt, the first ever BDSM store I visited (the butterfly clamps I have bought on this visit over 15 years ago are still in use in my playroom!). Getting there is a bit of a journey, being located directly on the U6 stop Alt-Tempelhof. But it is very much worth it! They have the largest selection of specialized impact toys in the world, interesting bondage gear and fun little toys. While they have an online store, it onl reflects a fraction of their assortment. For example, the pain sticks I am reviewing here, are only available in store.

The McHurt Pain Sticks in the two Versions: Smooth and with the Sphere on the End

Construction

The basis of both toys are 1.5mm diameter stiff round stainless steel wire which are 200mm long. The lower quarter of the wire is covered in PVC shrinking tube forming a grip section. It is about three times are thick as the fire and a bit more anti-skid than the bare metal wire. Even holding the toy just between your finger tips with sweaty hands has a somewhat secure grip.

The tip of the two toys is what sets them apart: One of them is just the deburred and slightly smoothed wire, the other ends in a 8mm diameter stainless steel sphere.

Playing with the Pain Sticks

You probably already have guessed it from the construction, they are very similar to the Carbon Fiber Pain Sticks from Mr S but also quite different. Unlike the Carbin Fiber sticks which as best snapped against the body, grab the bottom of the grip section between your thumb, index and middle finger and hit using your wrist like you would do with a paddle. You can snap with these sticks. The snapping actually feels more intense since the the rod is thinner and thus more foucced. Also the metal is stiffer and has no bounce like the carbon. But, such a thin piece of metal wire can easily be bend out of shape. So expect your stright wires soon to feature a kink abot the gripping section.

The Two different Ends of the McHurt Pain Stick

The stiffness compensates the lower leverage of the shorter length and lower mass since they are incredible light. Hitting the same stop twice, fells light lightnins. Especially when hitting sensistive areas like the glans or the balls. Please be careful when hitting the balls! Because of the laser focus of the kinetic energy being transfered onto the body, hitting the epididymis can lead to serious injuries! If a dragging pain lingers for more than a couple of minutes, go to the ER! While the the smooth wire is pure sting, the one with the sphere on top has a little bit of extremel focussed thud. Getting hit by it creates an interesting sensation: First there is a sharp, focussed sting which then progresses to go deeper as thud.

The smallness makes the Pain Sticks good for hitting small and nimble areas you cannot target with larger toys. One friend of mine is using them to strike fear into his sub’s eyes when he did something wrong and is then hitting the fingers or toes of him. Again, caution is advised since the small bones in these body areas also break easily and you transmit a lot of force.

The PVC Grip

Since both sticks are made out of metal, they conduct electricity well. You can connect them to your e-stim power box using a pole clamp. Of course you will need a second pole for that which could either be a conductive loop, an anal or penis plug, a simple pad electrode or if your are extra devious, another of those sticks. Having wires danngling around is a bit annoying, but the feedback the sub is getting when such low mass, small area poles hit his skin, is best entertainment for any true sadist – and frankly requires a devote masochist. Like with every e-stim, you must ensure that the currency is not running over the chest! So hitting both nipples simultaneously is not possible! If you want to err at the side of caution, play below the waist.

The Kink the Pain Stick Gets after a Couple of Snaps

Some people who see mental toys instantly think off temperature play. These two toys are so so for it. Having little mass and being made out of a well temperature conducting material, they cannot contain temeratures for a long time. If you put them into ice water, they usually get the surrounding air’s temperatur pretty quickly. If you get heat them, the cool quickly. If you heat them too much, the entire rod will get hot and the PVC starts to warm up which is there point where you should stop right away!

Conclusion: Inexpensive, nasty impact toy.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Two versions mit distinct sensations … but takes a time to master properly & safely McHurt but only available in store Plain version: 5€
Inexpensive
Small & nimble Will bend out of shape when snapping Sphere Version: 6€
Easy to handle…

eVac Duo 800

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The VAST eVac Duo 800 with all the Accessories

Vendor: VAST

2½ months ago I reviewed the updated eVac 2.0 from VAST. While it was a big improvement ergonomics wise to the five year old previous model, being a monopole needing a second pole to work for e-stim made it hard to handle in some situations. A couple of weeks ago VAST also released an update to the old duo-pole eVac. In this review I will look at the differences between the toys and how this toy works. So I recommend you read at least the construction section of the eVac 2.0 review before reading this one.

Construction

The eVac Duo 800 has the same basic design like the eVac 2.0, has the same 220mm length and is 3D printed out of the same polymer. As the name indicates, it is considerably larger at 80mm internal diameter. Inside are now two stainless steel rods. One sound like with domed attachment, one with a flat segment plate which sits in the top half of the cylinder in order to press against the pelvic area. Theoretically you could change the position of the two but that does not make sense for ergonomic reasons.

The Nuts holding the Two Rod Electrodes in Place

The nuts holding both rods in place are sitting next to each other on top. Because they are so close to each other, the nuts don’t have wings anymore for tightening but just small studs for better grip. In order to tighten the screws tight enough for a vacuum seal, a winged tool is included will grips the studs and thus allows for more torque.

Having two rods, the eVac Duo comes with two plugs to seal the cylinder when you are not using both or any of the rods. The hex key from the eVac 2.0 has been replaced with a small screw driver which is also now the standard for all eVacs. To ensure the longevity of the toy, a small tub of Wondergrease silicone grease is included. All the accessories come in a small drawstring bag to keep all the accessories together.

The Plate Electrode as a Counterpole for the Sounding Electrode

Playing with the eVac Duo 800

Since the eVac Duo has the same ergonomically shaped base, it has the same great and quick vacuum seal. Having a larger diameter and thus more volume, the Duo behaves a bit different. It takes longer for the vacuum to take effect because air needs to be evacuated. Because of this the vacuum comes a bit softer and can be more gradually increased. But it also means, you need to pump more. If you or your bottom are petit or skinny, ensuring contact between the skin and the cylinder feet is a bit of a challenge, especially when he starts moving his legs. Due to the larger footprint, the cylinder has a considerably larger leverage.

The Duo addressed the issue that the sounding electrode needs a counter pole in order to create a close electric circle. This electrode could either be a pad electrode which due to the lower mass could be ending up the spot where the sensation is felt or an anal electrode with is relatively far away resulting in cable chaos or a loop around the balls which can create unintended leverage effects when wiggling, breaking the vacuum seal. Now the second pole sits inside the vacuum tube. The bottom plate is very mass rich and covers a large footprint which ensures that the sensation is felt on the sounding electrode. Additionally the 4mm banana jacks sit next to each other which makes wiring easily.

The Sounding Electrode with the New Hex Toll for Easy Adjustment

The placements of the electrode offer the door for a new deviant form of play: Take the sounding electrode out, seal the hole with the plug, put a very mass-rich anal into your sub (yes, this leads to cable chaos again) and start pumping. Since the dick is most likely pointing downwards, the e-stim sensation will be felt at the pelvic area. If you not start to stimulate the sub and increase his arousal, causing the dick to jump upwards, the glans (and sometimes the shaft) makes contact with the rod, creating a tickling shock. If you really want to shock your bottom, you insulate the bottom of the contact plate with a piece of rubber. Then the only conduction point will be where the dick hits the rod, most likely starting to jump uncontrolled due to the pain, making contact again and again. Until this vicious feedback circle makes him get soft and most likely continuously touch the rod or top of the plate if he is not too small.

Left: eVac Duo 800
Right: eVac 500

Since the counter pole plate is made out of stainless steel, it conducts the currency very well, even without waterbased (special e-stim) lube for enhanced conductivity. In order to achieve a smooth e-stim sensation, the complete surface should touch the skin. Otherwise it will be a very pinchy experience. When adjusting it, be a bit careful and not pushing too hard. The leverage could otherwise push the cylinder off.

The eVac Duo 800 serves also an unexpected market: Vacuum cylinders for big boys! I can count myself lucky to have a few play buddies who have 6+cm dick diameter and who have a hard time finding accordingly sized vacuum cylinders. Naturally they are also on the far side of the length spectrum so 220mm length is a bit confining. But if you are having the same issues, VAST is probably able to print you a longer cylinder. Though if you exceed 250mm, the rods will be too short to stick out of the top.

Conclusion: Excellent large vacuum cylinder with an integrated duo pole e-stim circuit
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique combination of cock pumping and e-stim Opaque material VAST eVac Dup 800: 269€
Duo pole, no additional electrode needed A bit bulky and thus not suitable for really skinny and petit bottoms
Anatomic base for smoother vacuum seal and better pressure distribution
Versatile electrode
Vacuum cylinder works also without electrode
Easy to clean

Viper Chastity Cage

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The Kink3D Viper Chasitity Cage in Size R+ Wide with a Curved Base Ring

Vendor: Kink3D

In the past years, Locktober and NOvember have become cornerstones of the gay kinky (social media) calendar. If I look at the page views of my articles about chastity and the reader questions of the past 6 weeks (especially since Folsom Europe), chastity clearly has been on peoples’ minds! At the end of September last year I have reviewed the Kink3D Cobra, the probably most widely used male chastity cage in the world right now. In the lead up to the most locked season of the year, I am reviewing Kink3D’s newest chastity cage, the Viper.

Since the basic construction of both cages are the same, it will be more of a comparative review, highlighting difference between the two cages so you can decide which one is best for you. In my initial review and in-depth follow up, I explored at length the potential and different different play styles of chastity. So if you are new to this kind of play, I highly recommend reading those two articles first. If you are already a seasons chastee or have a Cobra and think about upgrading, dive in straight away.

If you live in Europe and want to start your chastity journey Locktober 1st, Kink3D has some local retailers in the EU now. So the toys ship quicker and you don’t have to deal with customs. I personally recommend VAST in Dortmund, because they have a large selection both in store and online. So if after a couple of days you realize that you need a smaller or larger base ring or even differently sized cage, they can quickly get you setup so you make it through the month securely and comfortably.

Construction

There are two general designs for male chastity devices: The belt-style which goes around the waist and through the groin like a piece of underwear and the cuff-barrel-style which just goes over the dick itself. The Viper – like the Cobra – follows the latter design principle.

The Kink3D Viper above the Cobra. Notice the Wider gap between the Base Ring and the Cage on the Viper

For the Viper, Kink3D completely re-designed the barrel-style cage. While the Cobra had an open design of different interconnected struts creating a cage-like look, at the Viper different panels create an almost completely closed barrel with just slots for ventilation, easier cleaning and pissing. To mark the transition from the shaft to the glans section, the Viper has a small reinforced ring but only opens up about a millimeter more in diameter. The Cobra had a distinctly bigger section for the glans. Both cage styles have the same connection mechanism to the base ring with a shackle which goes into the lock house and two studs which go into holes inside the base ring.

Both my cages are size R+ Wide. To my surprise, the Viper is actually considerably larger than the similarly sized Cobra! Since it is difficult to measure inside the cage, I am comparing outside measurements. Due to both cages having a wall strength of 4mm, it gives you an impression how much larger the Viper is compared to the Cobra. Both have an initial exterior width of 52mm. But while the Cobra tapers to 44mm before the glans section, the Viper tapers to 49mm which is about 11% wider! Attached to the base ring, the Viper offers also 5mm more length than the Cobra due to a wider gap between the cage and the base ring. This gives your balls a bit more space, good if you have meaty balls like mine, but also makes balls slipping through more easily. So you might need a differently shaped base ring. This larger space in combination with the gradual transition from shaft to glans section means that dick sits a bit more freely inside the Viper. Regardless which cage you choose, for a comfortable and satisfying long-term chastity experience, the cage needs to be the correct size! To achieve this, Kink3D offers both cage and base ring in various sizes. To find the right size for your dick, I have written a detailed section about finding the right cage and base ring size for you in my Cobra review.

Left the Kink3D Cobra, right the Viper. Despite both being R+ Wide Size, the Viper’s Shaft tapers less and the Glans Section is Bigger

Detail of the Connection Studs & Locking Shackle on the Cage and Holes and Lock House on the Base Ring

To attach the cage to the body, a base ring is put over dick and balls, like a cockring. The basering is slightly oval for a better anatomical fit. At the top of the ring sits the lock house and two hole which connect with the studs on the cage itself. This was, cage and ring align perfectly, firmly and securely. But even when aligned perfectly, putting the lock in and actually locking it, can be a bit tricky. It takes some patience and some experience to quickly lock the ring onto the cage. The ring come in three designs: Standard which are just straight, XD which are slightly thicker to decrease the gap between the ring and the balls to prevent small balls from slipping through and curved which are cureved backwards if you have meatier balls. The Viper shares the same base ring with the Cobra. So you can mix and match colors and designs, like the waist strap rings. This ring is a recently introduced collaboration with Mr S Leather in San Francisco. The ring has two lugs on top to thread a neoprene or leather belt through which pulls the chastity cage upwards and tighter to your body. I have not played with this combination yet so I cannot judge how it effects long-term comfort and wearability.

The Currently Available Colors, missing the White which I have somehow lost

Like all toys from Kink3D the Viper is 3D printed made out of PA12 nylon. While being more expensive than other polymers for 3D printing, it is considerably sturdier, an important feat for chastity cages which are subjected to a lot of physical stress through movement, moisture and warmth. The panels the cage is made out of are 4mm thick giving the cage a solid, high quality feel without any flex. This is thicker than the wall strength of metal cages and also thicker than most other polymer/ 3D printed cages. While the thick material makes the Viper a bit bulkier than other cages, I have not yet come across a genuine Kink3D cage which broke. Even after years of 24/7 usage, the Kink3D cages look, feel and work like the day they were first locked around your dick. All pictures of cracked and broken cages which have been sent to me, have turned out to be from cheap knock-offs.

The Basering, Lock & Cage – the Three Base Elements of the Kink3D Chastity Experience

Another testament to the great quality is the overall finish of the Viper. Unlike with other 3D printed toys, you cannot see the stepping. The surface is smooth, in a slink-mat finish. It is warm to the touch, easy to clean and does not attract finger prints. All edges are rounded and deburred to prevent chafing even during long-term wear.

The Viper comes with a standard Burg-Wächter internal lock which are keyed-alike. So the same keys which fit my lock from the 2024 Cobra also fit my 2025 Viper. This is good for my chastity play style where I always need a key close at hand. But if you want to securely lock your bottom, you can either get an individually keyed lock for $25, a seal secured key safe or a 3D printed seal secured lock replacement called Airlock. This sealed lock stud is actually the safest way to lock the chastity onto your bottom because a moderately skilled lock picker can pick the lock with a paper clip.

Long-term Wearing & CBT in the cage

As you would expect, the Viper is “just” a differently designed Cobra who shares the same great level of production quality. This makes the Viper like the Cobra the best cuff-barrel-style chastity cage currently available. If you find the right cage size and base ring, the ergonomic design makes the cage almost unnoticeable. This is even more true to the Viper than for the Cobra. Since your dick is almost encased in the polymere tube, you even feel less. With the Cobra, you might feel a bit of chafing of your underwear or skin folds getting caught at a strut when getting hard. In the Viper you of course feel your hard-on struggling against the material. But except that, you feel nothing. This is an eerie feeling. You certainly feel that there is an object between your legs. But you just feel the object, not what is contained inside. The Viper is a bit more noticeable than the Cobra since it is a bit bulkier and heavier. But still, after wearing it for a couple of days, the feeding fades away and the cage becomes a part of your body.

Look Inside the Viper’s Barrel

While being a bit bulkier and more protruding, the Viper is still unnoticeable for the untrained eye. Below chinos and jeans or even thin cloth suit trousers, you cannot tell the difference between a big package and a chastity bulge. Of course, through jockstraps, singlets, tight-fitting rubber or speedos, you can clearly tell what you are wearing.

Like last year, I gave this new cage an airport security test flying to the USA. Neither German nor US security noticed the cage, neither on a body scanner, nor during a pad down because my Engelbert Strauss pants have to bulky pockets. If you run into issues, you can always claim that it is a medical device. If that does not work, I recommend traveling with the key to unlock if asked. While technically not illegal, the security can detain you if they want to. Having your dick locked 24/7 is not worth missing a flight.

As an uncut guy with a PA, I like that the Viper is a bit more spacious. With the Cobra, my piercing would sometimes get lodged between the bars. If that happened as an unlucky angle, the piercing would jam my frenulum against the firm cage, causing extreme pain! Inside the Viper, my dick is well contained and content. In all the month wearing the cage, I never had to adjust my dick inside the cage.

The Viper’s Sexy Silhouette which Reminds me of Super Cars

Pissing was also easier with the Viper. Due to physics, the tip of the dick is drawn to openings. Since there is only one up from, my foreskin opening usually aligned fairly well with it. And if not, it is the only outpour there is, guiding the stream. Nevertheless, pissing when caged is still a bit of gamble. I felt confident enough to use a pissoir with the Viper and mostly did not wet my pants in the process – but sometimes disaster happened. So if you want to be completely safe, sit down pissing.

Since there are almost no holes, you really have to take the Viper off for cleaning. Especially when you are cut, you could wear the Cobra almost indefinitely because water and soap could reach every spot. With the Viper, I recommend taking the cage off once a week. If you are a smell fetishist, the Viper is definitively for you! The precum, piss and sweat quickly create a rich aroma inside the barrel. A friend of mine puts the cage in front of a gas mask hose when milking his chastity sub so he can enjoy his own musk.

Being almost closed off completely, you can also play less with the dick inside. While I could fit pad electrodes inside the cage, getting the wires out proofed impossible. Wax play does not work at all and sounding is very hard. If the piss slit does not perfectly align, there is little way to get a hold off the dick to nudge it in the right place. You can also not apply lateral pressure when the sound pushes the dick a bit back. Cumming inside the cage is also more difficult. The holes up front are a bit wider than in the Cobra. But frenulum stimulation is more difficult. What works better than in the Cobra is applying vibrations. The barrel is better at transmitting the vibrations than the Cobra’s cage bars.

The Additional Space a Curved gives your Balls in the Right vs. a Standard Ring on the Left

Speaking of “play”, there are some… characters in the community who will punch you into your balls “because you obviously like it.” This is pretty dangerous when wearing a chastity cage! The exposing of the balls and leverage of the ring and the pressure the firm and sturdy cage can put on the testicles can lead to serious injuries, resulting in losing your balls in the worst case! So if you are a dom, top or sadist don’t be an asshole and ask for consent before busting somebody’s balls.

While technically is it possible to controlled busting somebody’s balls while he is locked in the Viper, it takes some practice and precise targeting. I would only recommend doing it with toys of the fist. Nut kicks are simply to random for this.

Conclusion: Comfortable and even more secure chastity for long-term wear
Pro Cons Toy Price
Large range of possible sizes for perfect fit Lock is a bit difficult to insert Kits (including cage, base ring & lock) $190 – $240
Can be worn over extended periods of time Has to be taken off for cleaning
Completely sealed of for less stimulation Cage $145 – $190
Very well made
Sturdy Base Ring $45 – $65
Randomized Lock $25
Airlock $15
Single Key Sleeve $25 – $30
Double Key Sleeve $30 – $35

 

eVac 2.0

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Vendor: VAST

The VAST eVac 2.0 Disassembled

Exactly five years ago I reviewed the original eVac from VAST. Back then, we were all stuck at home, having too much time on our hands to play with ourselves. So let’s see if this second edition is a real upgrade, especially now that we are playing in sex clubs much more again.

Construction

Like its predecessor the eVac 2.0 is a standard vacuum cylinder. The tube has an internal length of 220mm and comes in two diameters: 50mm and 60mm. If you have a really big dick, VAST can probably make you a custom larger one to fit your junk. Laterally on the domed top sits a standard vacuum valve from CPC which is compatible with all common vacuum pump hoses. The tip ends in a thread with a wing nut which is essential for sealing a vacuum around the accessories which turn the eVac (2.0) a unique e-stim toy.

Unlike its predecessor it is not made out of acrylic parts glues together buy 3D printed, making it both lighter and more nimble. The ready to use eVac 2.0 with the half-dome weights 350g vs 440g of the old eVac in the same configuration. So even when the sub wiggles a lot or you want to move around during selfplay, it sits more securely. Another advantage is easy cleaning. Both the tube and the stainless steel rod are dishwasher safe. The aluminum half-sphere is not! After a dishwasher cycle, both the seal and the thread are degreased. In order to create a secure vacuum seal, use low viscosity silicone lube.

The Thread on top with the Wing Nut unscrewed, Electrode inserted and the Plug ready to replace the Sound

While the old eVac was a bit clunky, the 2.0 is almost stylish. The coloring caused a bit of a dispute among my testees: Unlike the clear acrylic of the old model, the printing polymer has a dark steel blue color and is opaque. Silicone oil will make the material a little bit more translucent and will make the growing dick glide up the walls more easily. Both the tube and the stainless steel rod are dishwasher safe. The aluminum half-sphere is not! After a dishwasher cycle, both the seal and the thread are degreased. In order to create a secure vacuum seal, use low viscosity silicone lube.

 

Another big advantage of the new manufacturing technique is the anatomically shaped base. The old one had a flat, almost absurd wide causing leverage problems base with a rounded edge. The new one not only distributes the pressure more evenly around the groin but creates a better and smoother vacuum seal, even when moving around.

The eVac 2.0 comes with two accessories to put into the thread on top. The first is a simple, yet essential one: A small 3D printed plug with an eyelet on top to seal the tube. When this plug is inserted, you can use the eVac 2.0 like every other vacuum cylinder. The star of the show which gives the eVac its name is a 280mm long stainless steel rod. This rod comes in 8mm diameter (what I chose) or 10mm diameter for the more advanced player. The rod diameter is indicated by the last to digits of the product namen; my eVac 2.0 with the 8mm rod is aptly named 508, the 10mm version would be names 510. One end is rounded, the other is has jack for a 4mm banana plug. The final accessory is a milled and polished aluminum half-sphere which flows into a short tube on top. The aluminum not only safes weight but enhances conductivity. The rod fits through the tube and can be fixed in place with a small setscrew using the enclosed hex key.

The Anatomical Shaped Base

Everything is packed in a drawstring bag for easy and scratch-free storage.

When I first read the price, I was surprised. A good acrylic vacuum cock cylinder which does not have and ergonomic base costs around 100€. A premium of just 80€ for the e-stim/ sounding capabilities is more than fair.

Playing with the eVac 2.0

First, let’s look how the eVac works as a simple vacuum cylinder. In order to use the cylinder, loose the wing nut, put the plug into the hole on top and tighten the wing nut again. Due to the seal inside the wing nut, the cylinder is now completely seal. Now you just need to put your dick into the tube, attach your favorite vacuum pump to the valve and start pumping. Since the cylinder is on the shorter and narrower side of size, you can quickly create a strong vacuum. This is actually an advantage since most people overestimate their dick size and buy too big cylinders for an even and comfortable vacuum.

Having played with vacuum cylinders for almost a decade, the anatomically shaped base is a game changer! It makes wearing the cylinder so much more comfortable and creates a quicker, more secure seal without adding uncomfortable pressure. While other cylinders due to their flat base can become comfortable over time due to leverage pressing against pelvic bones, I did not encounter this using the eVac 2.0.

The Banana Jack on top of the Sound

While the eVac 2.0 makes pumping and wearing it for longer periods comfortable, two small pieces of advice regarding pumping:

  1. Pumping does not make your dick larger! There is an urban legend that exposing your dick to vacuum over extended periods of time, makes it grow. That is a myth! The dick will temporarily become a bit bigger and squishy. And yes, the more intense circulation and usage will help your erecting be stronger and harder (that’s why vacuum pumps can be used to treat erectile dysfunctions). The dick might feel bigger and longer due to that. But it will not grow.
  2. What can happen if you pump too quickly with too strong vacuum that you damage the tissue inside your dick. Then your dick will be constantly bigger but just squishy. This is aptly called “Sponge Dick”. In order to avoid it pump slowly, carefully and not going to the max vacuum. There should always only be a (light) horny draft, not painful suction!

The material this toy is made out of caused some discussion under my testees. Some drone players loved it for the dark, complete coverage look. Others did not like that you cannot see what is (happening) inside. In good light conditions, you can see the shadow of the meat inside. But under sexy darkroom lighting it is almost impossible to make out if there dick is touching the electrode or not. For many pump pigs, seeing your dick grow inside the cylinder is a big part of the turn on. This is of cause not possible with the dark, almost opaque material.

The eVac with the Plug for Only Vacuum Play

What sets the eVac apart from other vacuum cylinders is the central rod you can istall using the wing nut up top. The rounded tip is made for easy urethra insertion. Before putting it into your dick, you should disinfect the rod properly to avoid infection. Afterwards generously apply (sterile) lube and put the tip into your piss slit. Afterwards generously apply (sterile) lube and put the tip into your piss slit. The most common lube is water-based which had good conductivity and is easy to clean. An pro-alternative is silicone fat (= high viscosity silicone oil). It has a lower conductivity than water-based lube so you have to crank up your box a bit more. But unlike water-based lube, it does not get absorbed by the surrounding tissue or washed away by pre-cum. So when you plan on playing for longer periods of time, give that a try. Though it is a bit messier to clean. Since the rod does not move inside the cylinder, the process takes a bit of practice. The best way to do it is to unscrew the wing nut so the rod can move freely, push the rod all the way down and insert the sound outside the cylinder. Then hold the rod while pushing the cylinder onto your body, tighten the wing nut and start pumping.

The eVac 2.0 can now also be ordered with an 8mm rod which is 2mm less diameter than its predecessor. This should make the sounding part accessible to more people. When it comes to sounds, 8mm is actually the sweet spot between still being able to take it comfortably and not being “pointy”, thus getting down gently. Still, for an inexperience player, 8mm is still significant to pass through the sphincter inside on the tip so some prestretching is recommended.

The Anatomical Shaped Base

There are two ways to get the sound deeper into your dick. First, you can of course unscrew the wing nut and push the rod deeper. In some instances this can loosen the vacuum so you have to re-pump a bit once you have tightened the screw. The other – and unanimously voted hotter – way is by increasing the vacuum. The dick will temporarily increase in size, thus sucking the sound in deeper and deeper.

If you add e-stim to the play, it is getting even hotter! The more contact the dick makes with the rod, the lower the e-stim sensation is felt. It is only subtle, but noticeable. If you then break the vacuum and the dick shrinks a bit, the e-stim sensation will become a bit more intense again.

Of course, in order to create an e-stim sensation, you need a second pole. This could be a conductive rubber loop around the balls or an anal electrode. The e-stim sensation is always felt at the electrode with the lower mass and the smaller contact area. So if you just use a conductive loop, be prepared to only feel the sensation there if the rod goes DEEP. VAST also offers a cylinder eVac Duo 800 with an Ø80mm vacuum tube and a second conductive rod which pressed against your pelvis which costs 269€. I did not have a chance to play with it so I cannot tell how well it works. But if you are looking for a completely integrated vacuum e-stim toy, check it out.

The Bell-Shaped Electrode Attachement

For those of you who do not like sounding, the eVac 2.0 comes with a bell-shaped half shell which can be attached to the rod using a setscrew and a small hex key. This accessory can either be used to limit the depth the rod can go into the dick or if you fix it at just the tip of the rod as the contact surface. Then the half-dome envelops the hard glans pressing against it. Since the contact area is larger, the e-stim sensation is smoother. Depending on where the frenulum presses against the electrode, it can get stimulated intensely which lead to a handsfree orgasm of two testees. Be aware, that cumming from e-stim takes practice and does not come naturally! Most people who start out with e-stim hope to easily cum from it which is the exception, not the rule. While I am on the topic of warnings, be extremely careful when the bottom wears a piercing! As I said, currency always takes the route of lowest resistance which as soon as it touches metal is that focused path. Be extremely careful when ramping the sub in, especially when he is uncut and the Prince Albert is covered by foreskin. If he gets hornier, the foreskin retracts and the piercing makes contact with the electrode, he could be in (unintended and unsexy) excruciating pain!

If you play with e-stim, I highly recommend to wear isolating gloves when handling the eVac 2.0. Currency always takes the way of lowest resistance and thus the shortest way, so you should be fine. But there is a very small chance of currency passing through your heart when touching the rod with your bare fingers. So if you want to be extra safe (if you are not already into [heavy] rubber), wear insulating gloves.

Conclusion: Excellent vacuum cylinder with a naughty & nice e-stim twist.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique combination of cock pumping and e-stim Opaque material VAST eVac 500: 179€

eVac 600: 189€
Anatomic base for smoother vacuum seal and better pressure distribution
Versatile electrode
Vacuum cylinder works also without electrode
Easy to clean

 

Fetters The Orb

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Fetters The Orb CBT Impact Toy

Vendor: Regulation

If this design looks familiar, you have probably seen toys massage tools from Bongers which are made in the USA. Usually pervertables are cheaper than dedicated toys made out of fetish materials like leather or rubber. But even before the tariff war madness started, Bongers were already twice as expensive in the EU than this toy. So it definitively worth taking a look at it now!
Construction
Regulation calls this impact implement “Paddle” which I find a bit misleading. In my imagination a paddle is a blade- or shovelshaped impact surface leading to a handle section. The Orb however is 7.3cm diameter sphere (or orb) of soft foam covered in soft black garment leather. Around the circumference of the ball runs a metal ring covered in red leather keeping the ball in place.

Attached to this is a 32cm long piece of spring steel covered in a spiral of red leather. The lower 12cm of the rod are covered in two layers of soft leather to form a thicker handle section. The leather sheath is sown together with a cross stitching which is a nice design touch. Sadly the edges are neither burnished or deburred. Due to the leather being soft, the edges do not feel sharp. But these finishing touches missing are kind of weird in an overall very refined and high quality toy.

Detail of the Stitching and the D-ring for Storage

At the bottom a perpendicular leather strap is holding a small D-ring in place for easy storage of the toy.

Play with The Orb

The main play area for The Orb is CBT, or more precisely ball busting. The head is small and nimble enough to fit well between the thighs, targeting the small family jewels. It’s round shape makes the balls nicely jump to the left and the right if they are not kept in place by a ball stretcher. Being made purely out of foam, the impact sensation is pure thud and has an intensity sweetspot for this delicate body area. Since the shaft is made out of stiffer spring steel, it will develop a bit of momentum and on the other hand not transfer the entire kinetic energy onto the balls. Being so stiff, I would not recommend using it for snapping the balls. The intensity will be very high and hard to control.

The Foam Sphere being held in Place by a Leather Covered Metal Ring

If you want to snap, do it on the ass or the thighs. The Orb is a great thuddy yet focused impact toy. Due to the small impact surface, it is not really made for warm-up. But hitting just one spot can create agony even with minimal sting throughout the scene. If you hit hard, The Orb is a bit of a bruiser but not too bad if you don’t hit any veins directly.

However, if you want to add (a bit of) sting to your play, twist it 90° and hit with the orb’s metal frame. While the sting is a bit softened by the soft leather lining, being made out of metal, there is still a lot of kinetic energy transferred onto the subs body. Because of this I would not recommend hitting the balls like that. There chances of accidentially hitting the epididymis or the seminal dutcs are too high which almost always leads to serious injuries and loosing the testicle. For an intense glans spanking, bastinado or hitting the sensitive area between the thighs and the ass cheeks just RIGHT, this small impact area is perfect!

The Unfinished Edge of the Handle above the Leather Covered Shaft

In addition to that, you can also grab the toy by the orb and hit with the handle. Despite being covered in soft leather, it has some sting to it, especially when you hit with the cross stitching. This is firmer and textured and this will sting more. But be careful when you are hitting. The D-ring will flap around and also accelerate, leading to very stingy afterclap.

Conclusion: Thuddy ball impact toy with a stingy side

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Unique design & sensations

Handle a bit unfinished

Regulation

£34.99

Easy to target

Strong stingy side despite thuddy heart

Fetters The Claw

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Fetters the Claw CBT Paddle from Regulation

Vendor: Regulation

Over the past year, I have accumulated quite a few new impact toys, unintentionally almost all from Regulation. Since I haven’t done an impact special in quite a while, let’s kick off the new year with looking at tools helping you „reward“ your sub when he has been a bad boy.

Construction

The Claw has a traditional paddle design with a 71mm round head that flows into a 140mm long handle. It is made out of two layers of thick bridle leather with a metal spring in the middle for added stability for years to come. The two layers are sown and glued together; the edges are beveled, deburred and burnished. This gives the paddle a quality feel and it lies solidly in the hand. A nice touch is the embossed Fetters logo below the spiked pad.

While one side of the head is just the smooth bridle leather, on the other side there is a 59mm round firm foam pad covered in red leather. On top of the pad there is a circle of eight really pointy metal cones with an additional one in the center, giving the toy its name.

The Smooth Side of the Paddle Stinges quite a Bit

At the bottom of the shaft a lever-operated carabiner is riveted onto it. The eyelet diameter of 10mm is large enough to attach the paddle to a belt loop which is a great additional feature compared to just a D-ring for playroom storage. Since due to the ergonomics of this paddle you will not deal big blows with the Claw (see below), I do not really miss a loop for the wrist.

Play with The Claw

This section is going to be divided in two parts. First I will talk about the smooth leather side, then about the spiked one because this is truly a two-sided toy.

Regulation markets this toy as a ball busting paddle. Because of this the head is small and the handle just as long as it needs to comfortably hold the toy. This way it is nimble and can easily target small body areas. It is narrow enough to smack the balls between thighs as long as there is enough space for the balls to hang freely (for example on a bondage chair). But it is equally good for falaka or hitting that sensitive spot where the thighs meet the buttocks. Having such a relatively small impact area, it focuses the kinetic energy and this impact force on a small area, making the Claw a bit of a bruiser. Having a shorts handle, it is a bit difficult to gather momentum and thus deal really heavy blows on the ass and thigh. Since swats on the balls are generally supposed to be bit softer and more controlled, this is not really a negative thing.

The Carabiner is for Easy Attaching and Storing but Developes Momentum when Hitting

The spring inside the paddle makes it just a little bit bounce and thus perfect for tapping and snapping. When tapping the carabiner swings and develops momentum. My recommendation is holding the shaft on the rivet between thumb, index and middle finger while restraining the carabiner inside the palm. Being so small, the paddle is also a bit head-heavy and unbalanced. But since it is not made for heavy and continuous hitting, it is unlikely that it will make the wrist tired.

Since the bridle leather is smooth, firm and has a lacquered surface, the impact sensation is stingy. Being so light, it is not really made for warm-up. It either stings or is almost unnoticeable.

So much for the smooth side. Now to the spikes.

These Spikes give The Claw its Name

Let me reiterate: The spikes are pointy and sharp! They are not like on other paddles where the spikes are dulled or cone-shaped rivets. You can cause serious injuries with them, especially on the balls. The scrotum skin is thin and sensitive. Light tapping with this toy is ok. Any stronger force will lead to breaking the skin and cause bleeding. This effect is even intensified when moving the toy in a scratching movement. It is actually a good thing that due to the ergonomics you cannot deal hard blows. This could lead to flesh wounds! The padded pad gives the spikes a bit of bounce but it does not really softens the blows. It is a nice design feature and makes the paddle a little bit more intimidating looking but I do not see the functional use for it since it does not dull the blows. So, what are the spikes good for? I used them for a combination of sensation play and mind fuck. Drag them over the bottom’s skin, varying the pressure from a light scratch to digging in deeply, telling him that soon they will dig into his body, propelled by full force, will most likely inflict terror. Then start light tapping, scratch a bit again, play with his fear and anticipation. Due to being so sharp, do not used gear to soften them. They will tear rubber, scratch leather and rip lycra or cotton.

Detail of the Stichting and Finished Edges

One unexpected use case is (AB)DL play: If you put on several layers of diapers you need to perforate the outside plastic layer of the inside diaper to allow the liquid to get to the next layer. You need to do this without destroying containment of the absorbent stuffing so randomly ripping with a knife does not work. The Claw is perfect for this! The spikes puncture, rip and tear the plastic while keeping the stuffing intact. This also means that the ass is protected from injuries during the process. And if your little is naughty, the Claw is a great, not too severe OTK paddle.

Conclusion: Nasty small paddle with a dangerously mean side

Pros

Cons

Where to get

Price

Small and nimble for precise hitting

… that flops around when hitting

Regulation

£29.99

With the coupon code ToyTorture you get 10% off your purchase

High quality feel

A bit unbalanced

Carabiner for easy attachment…

Cobra Chastity Cage

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The Kink3D Cobra with the Key Sleeve and Nether Nudger

Vendor: Kink3D

Welcome back – earlier than expected. Ever since I posted the first pic of my Cobra on Insta and Twitter my inbox has been exploding! In the over 12 years I have been reviewing BDSM and kink toys I have never had so much interest in a toy, been asked particular questions or been urged to quickly publish a review before Locktober begins.

I am not a person to quickly reach a verdict about a toy, especially about one that has been designed for long-term wear (and one for reasons explained below I currently cannot wear for extended periods of time). But again I am humbled by the trust you put into my thoughts so this will be a first more or less in-depth look that I will probably follow-up in a couple of months with additional thought.

Construction

The Kink3D Cobra is a 3D printed cage made out PA12 nylon. This material is on the sturdier and also pricier end of the printing material market. Currently Kink3D offers cages and accessories made out of black, hot pink and aqua blue. I have gotten many questions when why they don’t offer red or lime green ones (talking about summer of the brat) which I have forwarded to Kink3D. What I can assume with my limited 3D printing knowledge that color pigments can effect the sturdiness of the material. So probably some R&D is necessary before new colors can be introduced.

The different Colors Kink3D offers: Black, Fusion Pink and Aqua Blue

The material strength is about 4mm in the middle of the beams making them thicker than the many other 3D printed genuine designs and let alone Cobra knock-offs from China. Due to the material strength the cage is slightly bulkier than delicate metal cage designs but actually lighter than most titanium cages. Stainless steel cages are weighing multiple times of the Cobra. But like with metal cages, when you compress the Cobra with your hands, there is no flex. Because of the heavy duty design I have never received a messages about a broken Cobra cage on my website. Due to the warmth, moisture and constant mechanical stress especially the points where beams meet are prone to breaking. This is especially the case with thinner built polymer cages or if cheaper material are used. I could create a coffee table book with pictures of broken cages I have been sent in the last three years when 3D printed chastity cages really took off.

Another indicator of the great build quality of the surface finish. There are no rough edges or pinpoints. The surface is covered in a semi-gloss smooth texture that is easy to clean, does not leave finger prints and feels warm to the touch.

The design is a traditional three piece design with the cage itself, the base ring and an internal lock. As a standard the locks are keyed alike. But for $25 you can order a randomized lock if you really want to feel secure and helpless. Though truth to be told since the lock is rather small it can be picked very easily by a moderately skilled lock pick. During Folsom Europe I have talked to a few lock picking kinksters regarding the Cobra’s internal lock. It turns out the challenge apparently is picking a lock parallel to your body literally locked in your crotch.

Putting on the Cobra

You start with putting the base ring on. My recommendation is going balls first and then squeeze the dick through. Then you put the cage over your shaft. If skin gets caught, use their Nether Nudger to adjust (see below). When joining the cage and base ring, note that the pins on the cage are not only for guiding but also for sturdily connecting both parts. If the pins are not completely sunken into the holes of the base ring, the lock will not fit! This was actually the biggest misunderstanding when I firstly put on the cage myself. I thought they should only align. But it they the cage does not meet the base ring, the lock cannot be pushed through the entire lock house.

The GUiding Pins need to be Pushed Completely into the Holes on the Base Ring. Otherwise the Lock cannot be pushed through

Speaking of the lock, that is a bit of a challenge to put in. It twists very easily to the shackle jams inside the lock house. Until now I have not found a good way to insert the lock. If I guide it holding the key, the shackle will flip; if I guide it on the lock, the heavy head of the key turns the lock involuntarily, jaming the shackle. But since you are probably not unlocking so often as I do (again, see below), this does not matter as much.

What surprised me in the review process how comfortable you can wear the Cobra even when having a bush. Of course, you need to make sure that hair is not caught between the guiding pins and the holes or inside the lock house. But other than that there is little chance of pinching and tugging.

Sizes & Sizing

At the moment Cobra offers 8 different sizes both in a standard and wide version. In order to determine your size, measure your flaccid dick from the base to the tip. When you are like me and have a meatier dick or want to wear a large piercing inside the cage, go for the wide version. Over the past decade I have tried many chastity cages and they were all too narrow to house my large foreskin covered glans, let alone with a 8x15x12mm piercing. But the Cobra R Wide is so spacious that I almost don’t notice the cage when being soft. Picking the right size is important: If the cage is too long, the glans sit in the shaft tube instead of the bulges head section. If the cage is too short, it can uncomfortably compress your dick, seriously reducing the long-term wear potential. You can find the cage size imprinted on the inside below the locking ring.

There are 8 sizes of base rings which again cover a really wide range of package sizes. Though ending at 60.3mm width I know at least a few big boys who need a larger one. But I am certain Kink3D can accommodate even thick members of the gay community. The ring size is imprinted in the nudge where the locking ring of the cage enters the lock house of the base ring.

The rings are slightly compressed at the tops and elongated at the sides for a rough egg shape. This shape is more anatomically correct and reduces pressure and leverage when moving.

To even further accommodate different anatomies every size is available in three versions: Standard is a simple round 8mm thick round piece of polymer. The XD has an oval intersection with a depth of 10.5mm. This way the gap between the cage base ring is even small. When you have very small, mobile or tight balls this might be the right one for you. If you are like me and have meatier balls or and testicle prosthesis, Kink3D offer also Curved rings which bend 5mm backwards following the anatomically shape of your taint. It reduces the pressure on the balls. By widening the gap from 11mm to 16mm smaller balls can of course more easily slip through the crack.

The Roughly Egg Shaped Base Ring

Choosing the right ring size and is a bit trickier. Your cockring is a good size reference. Though through the egg-shape the behavior of a base ring can be different. The task of the base ring is different than a cockring: The base ring should comfortably and securely keep the Cobra attached to your body without you being able to pull the dick out or a ball slipping through. A cockring should keep the blood inside your penis. Prolonging an erection while being locked in a chastity cage is actually an adverse effect. So especially when you are a grower start with a larger size. Furthermore, depending in your form of day, how full your balls get over time during chastity and the environment (warmer temperatures and higher humidity will make the ball sack looser) your testicles will looks, feel and behave differently. So you might need two or more rings for a perfect fit in different situations or seasons.

If you have the possibility to try out different base rings, I strongly recommend doing it! This is only a snapshot but gives you a good impression if the ring is too tight. The gold standard is trying the base ring with a fitting cage. Since the ring and the cage are connected, the cage exerts leverage on the base ring, pulling it forward and upward. This movement and pull can obstruct circulation to taint and balls. If you feel a burning or tingling sensation in your balls or on your taint, you should take off the cage and try a larger and/ or curved base ring. Constant pressure on your taint and balls can cause lasting irritations on your balls which can lead to serious injuries, especially when the seminal ducts or epididimys are effected.

This is actually the case with my testicle prosthesis: Over time the standard #4 ring put pressure on my cyborg ball and obstructing circulation. As an experienced kinkster who can differentiate between different kinds of pain and knowing that nothing down their could actually necrotize, I placed the pain sensation in the “annoying”, not the “dangerous” category and wore the cage until it got too annoying. Sometimes these were 12 hours, sometimes four hours. The pain was so annoying that I could not fall asleep. Because of this for the review I spent some days and some nights locked but never managed a full 24h. During Folsom Europe a friend pushed me as a virtual key holder to go locked and chaste as long a possible over a couple of days. Despite having the opportunity and indeed order to unlock when it became too uncomfortable I was a good boy and pushed myself until I got released in a scene on Sunday. This push irritate the nerves on my scrotum which are still recovering from the implantation surgery so much that I could not lock for a couple of days. Of course this a borderline case which luckily only effects very few men. But it illustrates well the importance of a correctly fitting base ring! And it also shows the paramount rule of chastity: Physical and mental health comes first!

So my next steps will probably getting a couple of new rings (#4 Curved, #5 and #5 Curved) and see how much I can push myself. You will read all about it in the update in a couple of months.

Long-term Wearing & CBT in the cage

Despite not going for really long streaks, I have had enough wearing experience to give your a glimpse into being locked 24/7 in a Cobra.

The most important aspect of a chastity cage is “How secure is it?” I would place the Cobra on the securer end of the security spectrum. If it is really well-fitted, it is almost impossible to pull the dick out. This is especially true when you are wearing a large piercing. It takes a bit of practice and twisting and turning the cage to get the piercing nicely rested in the head segment. Since you cannot twist the cage while being connected to the base ring, it is impossible to get a large piercing out of the head segment while being locked. For added safety you can of course use a PA lock when you are uncut.

Different Nudging Tools

How a Prince Albert piercing behaves inside the Cobra was actually one of the most often asked reader questions. To be frank, I was surprised how well and easy they both played together. When I got the cage, I was wearing an 8x19x14mm screw in ball, meaning the external diameter of the piercing was 35mm. That was a border line size for the R Wide! It was wearable but required some adjustment throughout the day. The piercing would twist, lock in place and put uncomfortable pressure on my foreskin. Since the piercing was so large it could barely move, I had to take the cage off in most instances. Since sizing down to 8x15x12mm I can easily adjust while wearing the cage using Kink3D Nether Nudger. This is a small 3D printed pin you can wear in your key chain. Especially for meatier and uncut guys, I consider this $10 accessory an essential – regardless if you have a piercing or not! It helps you push the skin in the right direction or adjust the piercing. When you are a grower or uncut, the skin folds sometimes get caught when getting hard or getting soft, leading to really uncomfortable pinching! The tip of the Nether Nudger helps to adjust and push the skin into place. Is is small and nimble enough to fit between the beams and long enough to reach even hard to get-to spots. While you can in theory use other pins, I find the Nether Nudger the most handy tool. In times of need when mine was not at hand, I have used tooth picks (don’t try that at home!), Montblanc pens (kind of ok, but too wide) or keys (depending on the key either too points and scratchy or too wide to get anywhere). The best substitute I have found at my desk was a small mechanical pencil from Liberty, a British friend gifted me some 15 years ago. If you want to keep your kink classy, go for it. But the Nether Nudger fits the aesthetics, material and design of the Cobra better.

When you Cobra is well-fitted, you do not notice it at all as long as your dick stays soft! This is due to the light weight. Heavier cages, especially ones made out of stainless steel develop momentum when moving around. The Cobra is a very calm cage. Cheaper and older cages we locked by a pad-lock that could clink against the cage or its sharp edges and corners press into your lower abdomen. Having an integrated lock this irritation does not occur with the Cobra. So it is perfect to wear all day in almost every kind of cloths.

Despite the R Wide being on the larger end of the size scale, it is not really noticeable as a chastity cage. Most people will just identify it as a bulge. During the review process I have worn the Cobra under jeans and gym cloths, chinos and thin suit cloths with Nasty Pig or Addicted briefs. The structure of the cage does not print through the cloths so people, especially non-kinkster, don’t notice you wearing a cage. Even under .6mm rubber it is just a bulge, under .45mm you start to see structure. Under Speedos or tight fitting jockstraps it of course leaves an imprint.

The Sizing Emprinted in the Cage and Base Ring

When flying back from my US holiday this year, I put the Cobra to the travel test. Neither US nor British security noticed it. I both went through body scanners and metal detectors and it did not show up on any. When going through a body scanner the TSA guard checked my bulky double buckle belt from Mister B but let me go without any further inspection. A friend of mine is working at TSA. If you should face s strip search and are questioned about your chastity cage, he recommended calling it a medical device. But I doubt this piece of advice will not be needed often.

This discrete wearing is curse and gift as the same time. It takes a VERY trained eye to spot a cage below clothing, especially the smaller ones. There are some – and I have to restrain myself to not write a more strongly worded term – people in the community who find it funny to punch or kick subs into the nuts “because the obviously like it.” This is pretty dangerous when wearing the Cobra! The exposing of the balls and leverage of the ring and the pressure a the firm and sturdy cage can put on the testicles can lead to serious injuries, resulting in loosing your balls on the worst case! So if you are a dom, top or sadist don’t be an asshole and ask for consent before busting somebody’s balls.

While technically is it possible to controlled busting somebody’s balls while he is locked in the Cobra, it takes some practice and precise targeting. I would only recommend doing it with toys of the fist. Nut kicks are simply to random for this. Due to the open design, the dick can somewhat be played or tortured with. Wax comes off easily from the PA12 nylon and I have not noticed a tarnishing of the surface. If you are into e-stim, you can either fit conductive pads or 2mm loops inside the cage. In my experience the 4mm are too rigid. What I have done is fitting the Wide cage into smaller dicked boys and using the stainless steel electrodes from Oxballs. One really dexterous US friend of mine sounds his subs using silicone sounds while being locked in the cage. Long story short: The cage is sturdy and flexible enough to get creative.

The material does not resonate much and transfers vibrations fairly well onto the dick inside. For a caged milking, the dick should fill out the cage well. Otherwise the vibrations are not strong enough to stimulate the nerve endings enough to lead to an orgasm.

A Single Key Locked in the Double Key Sleeve

Keeping everything clean down there is easy when you are cut. The large space between the beams allow ample water and soap to keep your dick clean. To expedite the cleaning process, I recommend getting a shower head where you can choose different jet strength settings. Focused, slightly stronger jets makes washing the soap away easier. Uncut guys like me I would recommend unlocking at least every other day to clean below your foreskin. Since it is more compressed than flopping around uncut, piss cannot wash your glans, especially when messaging the last bit from under your foreskin. Because of this, residue piss also lingers a bit.

Taking the cage off for cleaning or adjustment can make self-unlocking necessary. If you don’t live together with your key holder or travel, I recommend getting the Key Sleeve. They are offered for single or double keys since each lock comes with two keys. I went for the double one. While a single key dangles inside the wide sleeve a bit, it is still locked securely. So with the double you have the option to lock one of both keys using numbered seals. The key sleeve comes with 10 seals. If you need more and unlock often due to the various reasons above I recommend buying them in lots of hundreds of eBay or Amazon.

Conclusion: Comfortable and secure chastity for long-term wear

Pro

Cons

Toy

Price

Large range of possible sizes for perfect fit

Lock is a bit difficult to insert

Kits (including cage, base ring & lock)

$170 – $240

Can be worn over extended periods of time

Very well made

Cage

$125 – $185

Sturdy

Base Ring

$45 – $65

Randomized Lock

$25

Nether Nudger

$10

Single Key Sleeve

$25 – $30

Double Key Sleeve

$30 – $35

Oxballs Clone Duo

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The Oxballs Clone MAX Ball Stretcher

Vendor: Oxballs

It has been over four years that I have last reviewed an Oxballs ball stretcher. Despite having reviewed so many over the past eleven years, I get many reader questions regarding them. So I decided to take a look an exotic model today which are designed to stretch your balls lower.

Construction

The Clone Duo is a set of two funnel-shaped ball stretchers; one black, one blue. It has a very short nuzzle on top of a big cone. It comes in two sizes: The Clone and the Clone Duo MAX which is the basis for this review.

The two stretchers have the same design and dimensions standing 41.5mm tall (37.5mm at the standard version). On top they have a diameter of 47mm and 68mm at the bottom. The top aperture has a diameter of 31mm and the bottom of 42mm. This means that the wall strength increases. This means that there is a spring force working towards the bottom.

The exterior is textured with texts and graphics: Around the nozzle runs a band of the product and brand name, the cone features bold arrows pointing down – just in case you were wondering in which direction the force works. On the MAX there is “HUGE” written between the arrows so you don’t confuse them with the standard ones.

The Tow Colors of the Clone Duo MAX

They are made out of platinum silicone making them very skin-friendly. The super-smooth surface reduces the chance of skin and to some extend hair getting caught. While the material is stretchty, it is more rigid and more importantly more shape stable than (Flex-)TPR even when exposed to kinetic energy and warmth over extended period of time (like in being worn 24/X). If you prefer to lube up your stretcher before putting them on, I recommend sticking to water- or oil-based lubes. Oxballs claims it is fine to use silicone lube but the silicone oil inside the lube will over time disintegrate the surface making it sticky. Speaking of sticky: Silicone itself is always a bit sticky so regardless how thoroughly you clean them, there will always be flint and dust on them.

 

Different materials use different plasticizers which can damage each other! Because of that it is important to store your ball stretchers apart without touching each other like in a shape sorter. Before putting them away, you should clean them, especially when lube has been used. Simply soak them in hot dish soap water, rinse them off, sanitize and let them dry before storing them away.

 

The Large Diameter Difference of the Top and Bottom Aperture

Playing with the Clone Duo

 

More than most other ball stretchers the Clone Duo is designed to stretch and extend your balls over time, turning them into low hangers. Unlike with stacking several rings above each other the spring force constantly and softly pushes your balls down. The lasting stretch might not come as quickly as with other methods (esp. like wearing a metal ball stretcher 24/x) but it is a gentle stretch that will affect your everyday life not too much – if you choose the right size. If you can already comfortably wear a 35mm ball stretcher, go for the MAX, otherwise start with the regular one.

As written above, the stretch force works in the direction of the arrow. So the lowest stretch is when you put the top aperture towards your body and the bottom one towards your balls. The next step up is turning it around and let the bottom press against your groin. From there you have to work quite a bit with stacking stretch rings till the next step which is stacking two Clones above each other. If you want to go harder and more, the next escalation is letting the bottom holes face each other and the final step is to the top holes meet in the middle. Though in order to achieve that you really need (meaty) low-hangers.

Meaty is a key word: The more intensely you stretch, the more likely it is especially for small balls to stay in place when putting the stretcher on or even worse slip through. Again, with added small ring you can prevent this. But with all training, who said it is going to be easy.

One of the more Intense Stacking Options

If you already have somewhat low hangers and enjoy a good swing, the Clone is worth a try. Weighing 68g each and stretching your balls good, there is certainly a good tug and swing. Of course it is far from a metal ball stretcher but my testees enjoyed it because you can wear the Clone longer than a metal ball stretcher at same stretch level.

When you plan on wearing the stretcher constantly for best stretching result, consider the size. The spring force causing cone-shape makes the Clone way bulkier than other ball stretchers. You have a very noticeable – and visible – silicone lump between your legs. Most testees got used to the feeling and did not describe it as more annoying than other stretchers. But there is still a cone of shame around your balls others can see (If you want to put a cone of shame around your entire junk, Oxballs got your covered too).

Conclusion: Tool for stretching your balls LOW for intermediate and experienced stretchers.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Soft and gradual stretch over time When using two difficult to put on. Clone Duo $66.00
Clone Duo MAX $99.00
Good stretch and weight for swinging balls Very bulky for 24/X wearing