Schlagwortarchiv: CBT

Chastity Harness

Von | | ,
Kommentar hinterlassen

Vendor: VAST

While this piece of gear is call “Chastity Harness”, it is also a nifty piece of bondage gear for rubberists. So even if chastity is not one of your kinks, give this review a read. You might find an interesting piece of gear nevertheless.

Before I start this review, a disclaimer: I have been involved early on in the design process of this gear piece. For the last couple of months, I have been wearing and giving feedback the Chastity Harness. The basis for this review is the prototype which has been modified over the months. While it should be like the final product, please excuse minor deviations.

The VAST Chastity Harness with the Codpiece Flap

As always on projects like this, my design work has been completely pro bono. I have neither been paid for my work nor getting paid for writing this review or profit from any sales.

Construction

The name “harness” is a bit misleading since this “waist harness” has actually a jockstrap configuration. The main body of this harness is the 38mm wide waist strap which comes in four different sizes, covering a wide range of body types from 70cm up to 119cm waists (roughly W28 to W47 if you American). The belt is closed with a lockable roller buckle which has a latex guiding loop. The male side of the belt features no less than 12 holes of the buckle for a finely adjusted fit. On both the top and bottom of the belts runs a line of Ø3.5mm holes which are 20mm apart. Using book screws you attach the thigh straps and other accessories to the main belt. If you are on the lower end of the waist circumference the belt can flop around a bit. Simply use one of the book screws to attach the belt end to the body. Since the buckle is locked, you are not going to take it off anytime soon anyway, or?

The chastity harness comes with two 20mm wide thigh straps. In order to assemble the Chastity Harness to your body, put the waist strap around on. Then attach the thigh straps about four or five holes left and right from the center using the book screws. For attachement on the rear you have two options and two possible configurations. Either you can use the a 20mm roller buckle attached to a small strap of Superior Latex or use redirectors through which you thread the strap and attach it to itself with the screws. The redirectors were my suggestion because if you use the belts, you have to fold the excess strap which for me disturbed the clean and sleek look. Since you have both options, give them a try and look what you like best! For attaching the buckle/ redirectors, you can either place them where your hips meet your ass cheeks for the jockstrap look. But you can also run them parallel to your tailbone to lock a butt plug in place. For this configuration, I actually recommend the roller buckles because it makes closing the straps easier once the toy is in place. Once assembled to fit your body, you can take this harness off like any other jockstrap plus opening the buckle up front.

The Kink3D Cobra Cage with the Strap Ring Attached to the Harness

To attach the chastity cage (or of you want are not into chastity also a not too thick cockring of course) to the harness, it comes with two pairs of slightly curved straps. The only have smooth latex on one side and bare Aramid on the other side. Being only half as thick as the other strap, the easily bend around the base ring of your chastity cage. Once bend around, attach them to the thigh straps using the screws again. The longer straps are for attaching it directly to the base ring or a cockring, the short ones are for attaching the Kink3D Strap ring.

A first (and hopefully not last) addition to the system is the Codpiece Pouch. In addition the codpiece flat itself, it comes with four short latex pieces with an attachment hole on side and the male side of the snap button on the other side and the corresponding book screws to attach it to the thigh straps. The codpiece flat is made out of 0.6mm latex. This makes the material thin enough to display a bit of chastity cage imprint.

All belts and connectors of the Chastity Harness are made out of VAST’s Superior Latex which is two layers of latex with a reinforcing layer of Aramid between them. Aramid is a fiber used for making ballistic body armor fabrics or sails so it can withstand a lot of force. These properties it lends the latex which you can now grab and pull without damaging it. On the codpiece flap, only the corners where the snap buttons sit are Aramid reinforced. All metal parts, including the snap buttons, are made out of stainless steel so the metal does not damage the latex. The female side of the book screws has a smooth domed head, the male has a slit for a screw driver. Depending if you prefer a rougher or sleeker look, put the smooth head on the outside.

The Codpiece Flap Showing Little Chastity Bulge since not being Worn on a Body

At the moment, it is only available in plain black Superior Latex. But since all gear is handcrafted in Dortmund, I assume you can ask for special colors. My personal with would be adding a – in my case – red contrast stripe to match my rubber harness. The codpiece flap I have already seen a version with a red stripe in the middle so I assume we will see some more colors soon.

Playing with the Chastity Harness

First, let’s talk about the chastity aspect. This harness is basically the gear head/ rubber fetishists alternative to the Mr S neoprene strap I reviewed two weeks ago. Once the base ring is connected to the harness, it is pulled closer to the body, keeping the cage upright. If the harness sits tightly, pulling your dick out is even harder than it is already with a correctly sized dick and base ring so it adds a bit of security.

Since the connecting loops are made out of a single layer of thin and soft latex, you can use your existing base ring. You might feel them a bit but due to the limited time you will be wearing the harness (more on that later), it will most likely not cause an issue. For added comfort, buy either a ring one size larger (with the harness tightly attached, this will not be a security risk) so it has a bit of wiggle room or one of the Strap rings if you own a Kink3D chastity cage which makes wearing the Chastity Harness a bit more comfortable. If you are going to wear the Chastity Harness on a more regular basis, I would recommend getting a dedicated ring anyway. This saves you taking out the screw driver every time you want to put the harness on.

The Locking Roller Buckle with the Guiding Loop and a Prototype of the D-ring Enclosing Strap

The locking of the waist belt is a nice psychological feature as it makes it impossible to take the harness off. Through this, the top has taken control over your cloths. But the a bit bulky buckle makes it a bit harder to wear under existing gear like rubber chaps. Only wear it under latex gear which you can carefully close in the front (like chaps with snap buttons). Chaps which are just being pulled up can get damaged by the lock or buckle if you are not extremely careful.

Getting the harness fitted for the initially takes a bit of time. When you are impatience like me, I highly recommend doing it together with a friend who can tightening the screws while it is on your body. Once it has been fitted, you can put it on like any other jockstrap with the small exception that you have to open and close the roller buckle since unlike cloth jockstraps it does not stretch to get over the hips.

Hitting the sweet spot between presence and bulkiness the “Chastity” Harness is a hot piece of gear for every more hardcore fetishist. It is the perfect solution for chaste boys who want to go out to a gear night not being naked and still proudly displaying their locked dick – either without any cover or through the imprint of the codpiece flap. Since chastity is only a nice kink of mine, I wore it most of the time with a cockring or without any at all. It was impossible to fit my Mister B Dougnut cockring under the straps but a thinner just round one does work. If you prefer larger cockrings, simply ask VAST for a longer strap when ordering.

The design and in combination with the Superior Latex material makes this rubber jockstrap (there, I finally said it!) a perfect piece of gear for every rubberiest and latex enthusiast. You know how some tops when fucking you tend to grab on your jockstrap’s waist band to pull you closer/ into position, destroying your fav jockstrap in the long run? Guess what, they can pull all they want with this motherfucker. It will not tear!

The Thigh Strap with the Redirector

During the feedback process I have asked for stainless steel D-rings for attaching a harness with downward facing straps (@VAST: maybe make a version of your Superior Latex bulldog harness with downward facing straps, pretty pretty please *puppy eyes*). But why only put them upfront? Put them on the sides, throw in a pair of scissor snap ended loops as handle and start plowing your bottom HARD. The side D-rings are also make this harness perfect for rubber bondage. Tied the bottom to a sling, to a bondage bed, tie his wrists to the side and start (ab)using him as you please. Along with this Chastity Harness, VAST release a Superior Harness strap-on harness (which can probably also be used for pumping and milking machines). If you are creative enough and can suffer through a bit of pressure of the toy base, I am certain with a bit of creativity and additional accessories from VAST you can combine these two gear pieces into one.

Keeping the different functionalities in mind, I am actually using the harness more during bondage scenes than keeping a chastity subs even more locked than he is anyway. Personally, the jockstrap has become a regular in my rubber gear setups, adding a codpiece or a signature piece to an otherwise smooth suit look. Sometimes for parties, I am combining this jockstrap with industrial gloves and waders, fucking with the rubber purists by covering everything but the torso except the junk.

When I first got this piece of gear, I was a bit annoyed how difficult it was to adjust and fit. But once fitted, it has become of the most used rubber accessories/ gear pieces I have worn – if I have not just fitted it to another testeee. It is a piece of gear a bit difficult to share, adding weight to the old saying: The sub owns the gear being put onto him, the top owns the toys being used on him.

The Chastity Harness with a Codpiece covering the Cage

One thing you have to be aware when buying this harness are the material properties of latex! First, latex does not breath. Quickly, moisture will form under it. Second, despite being made out of soft and flowing latex, it is not as flexible as cottom. Both factors combined will lead to chafing when wearing the gear over extended periods of time. Generally speaking, the Chastity Harness is a hot piece of gear for a session, for a party, for overnight but not made to lock a sub into it forever. Not only but especially when he needs a bit of ointment to wear his chastity cage. Natural oils will destroy latex. So if you are using ointments like milking grease or Albolene to keep the skin beneath the base ring smooth and the ring from chafing, do not put the harness on! If you have an issue with chafing (of the rubber loops), use silicone lube or silicone oil instead. If you have used any ointment containing mineral oils, paraffin or natural oils, clean the moisturized skin area and the base ring thoroughly before gearing up. If you wear it during fisting, you must never use oil based lubricants like Crisco or lubes infused with essential oils like clove (which you should never use for safety reasons anyway but that is a different conversation)! After having it worn, wash it – best with rubber detergent – and put silicone oil or talcum powder on it. Store it best loosely dangling from a hanger (do not let it touch other garments since getting silicone or talcum stains out of fabrings is a bitch) which will prevent creases.

Conclusion: Heavy duty piece of latex bondage – from simple chastity to elaborate setups
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Made for heavy duty place Initial fitting is a bit difficult and is best done with a friend VAST 179€ Chastity Harness

69€ Codpiece Pouch

199€ Strap-On Harness
Lockable
Wide range of play possibilities
Difficult to care for (like all latex)
Covers wide range of body types

Ultimate Humbler

Von | | ,
Kommentar hinterlassen

The Ultimate Humbler with the Ball Stretching Ring & Crusher Plate

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

This humbler is made out of 35mm tall and 23mm wide bar made out of stainless steel. The corners and sides are rounded and there are no visible weldseams or sharp edges on the body of the toy. In the center is a 100mm long straight part onto which 180mm long, slightly curved wings are attached. In the center section, there is 40mm wide opening. On one side, the wall slightly bulges to the side, on the other side there is bulged hatch, creating a 35mm deep opening. The hatch’s hinge is slightly recessed which prevents skin getting caught. It is closed using a hex screw on top and a locking pin for a padlock with a tiny shackle in the bottom.

Left and right of the hole of the balls two 140mm long M6 threaded rods are welded. To smooth the sharp ends of the thread each rod comes with a PVC cap. But the sit so loosely that the fall off easily when the bottom moves a lot. That’s why I only have one left.

The Spiky Side of the Crusher Plate

Onto these rods two accessories can added. First, there is what looks like a 14mm tall ball stretcher ring with an internal diameter of 34mm. It is hinged and is also closed by a hex screw. If you turn the milled ring nuts below the wings which ride on the threaded rods, you can stretch the balls even further. If you want to add even more painful stimulation, the Ultimate Humbler comes with a round plate with surprisingly sharp pins which can be pressed against the ball using wing nuts. For a bist softer sensation, use the back side of the crusher plate.

Welded at both ends of the bar are eyelets with a diameter of 11mm. The weldseam is only at the top of the eyelet and rather short so it looks a bit frail. However, despite heavy play and putting a lot of draft on it, it did not fail.

There Eyelets on both Sides

Despite being made out of stainless steel sheet which has been bend into shape, the Ultimate Humbler with all attachments weights 1,250g.

Playing with the Ultimate Humbler

The Ultimate Humbler addresses one of the most annoying things about humblers in general: Putting it onto the ball. Traditional humblers are two pieces of wood with a small recess in the middle and tightening screws at the end. In the process either a ball slips or you catch scrotum skin between the two pieces. With this toy, you can easily and comfortably grab the balls, push them into the opening, close the hatch and are done with it. Now comes the tricky part: Due to the long threaded rods this humbler is a bit bulky so pulling the humbler behind the legs, twisting it by 90° and locking it behind the ass can be difficult. The threaded rods also limit the position the sub can be in: Standing or doggy position are as easy as the humbler allows it to be. Kneeeling can already be difficult and laying on the back is impossible.

The Hatch which locks the Ultimate Humbler onto the Sub’s Balls

This was not a big issue for me because the most fun I had with the Ultimate Humbler was when I incorporated it into more complex bondage setups while he could still move. Connecting the humbler to other restraints using the eyelets is great for even more stressful bondage than the humbler will force the sub into by itself. With a bit of rope or tension cords (use shackles if the eyelets are too small) you can build interaction loops where creating ease at one position builds stress at another point.

These kind of feedback loops are even more fun when playing with the pressure plate. Increasing the pressure will make the bottom squirm and move which leads to more tugging. The smooth side works a little bit better in combination with the stretching accessory because the wide rim of the stretcher provides more surface to flatten the balls against. Without it, compressing the scrotum against the rim of the balls hole can be an uncomfortable pain. The spiky side works equally will with or without the stretcher. But you have to be careful when using it. The spikes are really pointy and sharp! With enough pressure they can break the skin.

Weighing over a kilogram, just locking the Ultimate Humbler onto a standing sub’s balls can be the origin of intense fun play. First it dangles between his legs like a yoke, tugging on this balls. Then add some more weights or connect the eyelets to his feet. Finally, induce some pain either through caning or electro or wax whatever you like. As soon as he starts to move, the tugging effect will intensify. Just make sure he cannot move too much because thrashing ones thighs into the thread rods is no fun pain.

The Ultimate Humbler completely Assembled

While this is a great albeit bulky toy for heavy CBT enthusiast, it is sadly only made for a specific group of subs. He needs balls which are both hanging extreme low hangers and are big yet not too meaty. If you cannot fit the ball comfortably in a 40mm tall ball stretcher, they will be too tight. Due to the leverage and movement of the stretcher barely covering the 35mm height is not enough. Next, if his balls are too small, they will simply slip through. You can compensate for this a bit, if the balls hang low enough to fit into the stretcher accessory right away. But his sack must not be too meaty because otherwise it will not fit into the humbler’s opening or the stretcher accessory at all. In the past months, I had several subs who were so desperate to play with this toy but their physiology was not simply made for it.

So, if you are into heavy CBT, I recommend trying if you can fit into the toy, because it offers great play possibilities. But it is sadly not made for everyone.

Conclusion: Versatile yet very heavy humbler for guys with extreme low hangers into heavy CBT and complex bondage.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Various play possibilities Only made for big, not too meaty low hangers Regulation £109.95
Additional Bondage Points
Lockabel
Sturdy Heavy
Perpendicular threaded rods are cumbersome

Kink3D Strap Ring

Von | | ,
Kommentar hinterlassen

The Kink3D Strap Ring Base Ring

Vendor: Kink3D

Hey guys! It’s been a while! What I had planed to be a shortish early summer break was extended due to daytime work stress and other shit. But now that Locktober is approaching and some of you will be attending Folsom street fair in San Francisco next week where a lot of kink purchase will be made, I decided today would be a good time trying to come back.

Construction

The Strap Ring is a special feature version of the base ring you need to lock your Kink3D Cobra or Viper chastity cage onto your body. Left and right of the lock loops have been added through which belts can be threaded. The loops have a width of 27.5mm and a clearing of 8mm so one inch wide belts fit easily.  The ring is available in all the diameter sizes and ring styles – XD for smaller & tighter balls, curved for meaty low hangers – like the standard ring and comes either in black or white.

The Strap Ring Attached to a Viper

This version of the base ring was launched together with a 35mm wide neoprene waist straps made by Mr S in their traditional black edges/ color middle part design in their seven most popular colors to match their iconic neoprene accessories like harnesses. It comes in three sizes covering a range of 28’’ – 46’’ waists. The length can be adjusted with snap buttons either on both ends or at the back.

Playing with the Kink3D Strap Ring

Especially when you are wearing a larger cage or have massive or low hanging balls which require a larger gap between the cage and the base ring, the entire cage can shift forward. By doing so, it creates a compact and heavy package away from the body which can feel uncomfortable, can get momentum when moving or chafing which makes wearing the cage 24/7 more difficult. The new base ring together with the strap, pulls the locked junk towards the body. Sitting closer to the body, both its footprint and leverage/ momentum is minimized. This especially good when you wear looser underwear or do sports which include running or cycling. Despite the large mechanical forces between the legs when moving them quickly, the cage securely stays in place.

The Mr S Neoprene Strap around the Kink3D Viper

The level of security and fit under these circumstances surprised me since neoprene is so soft and stretchy. These properties also makes the strap is almost unnoticeable. If you adjust it carefully, it sits right below your belt on your hips. At the front, it has to sit lower in order for the belt not to press the lock into your groin. The comfortable softness and stretchiness comes at a small price: Serious morning wood will push the cage forward and drag the strap along.

The combination of strap and cage itself, is also a sexy look. Depending on the location, just wearing the combo, can be a look in itself. For upcoming outdoor events especially in San Francisco where you can get away with it, the strap can work as an anchor point for belt pouches. Just don’t over load them! As said before, neoprene is stretchty and will sag when weighted too much.

One small drawback has the neoprene strap: The end of the strap is finished with a metal fitting. Since the strap is 35mm wide, it takes a bit of fiddling to get that end through the 27.5mm wide loops. Once the ends have been pushed through, the strap sits securely inside the loops on the base ring.

The Strap Ring used as an Anchor Point for Mr S Harnesses, left with a Standard Carabiner, right with a Scissor Snap

A probably unintended but nifty use case is using the Strap Ring as a cockring anchoring point for harnesses with downward straps like the Mr S Trojan leather harness or Neoprene Crossbow harness. There used to be straps to put around cockrings to anchor these harnesses onto something when you wear gear without belt loops like sportswear or preferred a tighter V pointing straight to your junk. But they vanished some time ago. You can substitute these straps by using the Strap Ring as a cockring and snap the harness’ carabiners into the loops. If you want to do this, I highly recommend getting an at least one size larger ringer than you would get for locking your dick. Generally, a chastity cage base ring is a bit smaller than a cockring you wear for fucking all night long. Clipping your harness into the Strap Ring works best when the harness has scissor snap hooks on the end. Mr S used to only work with these kind of carabiners. A couple of years ago they started using standard carabineres where the lever can making opening a bit tricky.

Conclusion: Perfect combo to keep your massive chastity package close to your body.  
Pro Cons Where to get Price  
Solution to keep even the largest and heaviest chastity packages close to the body Strap ends are a bit too wide to thread easily through the loops Strap Ring $75
Mr S Neoprene Strap $30
Perfect for pairing with groin strap harnesses

Pain Sticks

Von | | , , ,
Kommentar hinterlassen
Please excuse the picture quality. I have shot these  in my hotel room with using a small camera and having no proper graphics program on my tablet. So this is raw made in Berlin 😉

Vendor: McHurt

Especially in the run up to events in Berlin like BLF Easter or Folsom Europe, I get many messages asking what my secret tips for kinky shopping in Berlin are. Which stores, away from the gayborhood and Blackstyle I can recommend. On the top of my list is always McHurt, the first ever BDSM store I visited (the butterfly clamps I have bought on this visit over 15 years ago are still in use in my playroom!). Getting there is a bit of a journey, being located directly on the U6 stop Alt-Tempelhof. But it is very much worth it! They have the largest selection of specialized impact toys in the world, interesting bondage gear and fun little toys. While they have an online store, it onl reflects a fraction of their assortment. For example, the pain sticks I am reviewing here, are only available in store.

The McHurt Pain Sticks in the two Versions: Smooth and with the Sphere on the End

Construction

The basis of both toys are 1.5mm diameter stiff round stainless steel wire which are 200mm long. The lower quarter of the wire is covered in PVC shrinking tube forming a grip section. It is about three times are thick as the fire and a bit more anti-skid than the bare metal wire. Even holding the toy just between your finger tips with sweaty hands has a somewhat secure grip.

The tip of the two toys is what sets them apart: One of them is just the deburred and slightly smoothed wire, the other ends in a 8mm diameter stainless steel sphere.

Playing with the Pain Sticks

You probably already have guessed it from the construction, they are very similar to the Carbon Fiber Pain Sticks from Mr S but also quite different. Unlike the Carbin Fiber sticks which as best snapped against the body, grab the bottom of the grip section between your thumb, index and middle finger and hit using your wrist like you would do with a paddle. You can snap with these sticks. The snapping actually feels more intense since the the rod is thinner and thus more foucced. Also the metal is stiffer and has no bounce like the carbon. But, such a thin piece of metal wire can easily be bend out of shape. So expect your stright wires soon to feature a kink abot the gripping section.

The Two different Ends of the McHurt Pain Stick

The stiffness compensates the lower leverage of the shorter length and lower mass since they are incredible light. Hitting the same stop twice, fells light lightnins. Especially when hitting sensistive areas like the glans or the balls. Please be careful when hitting the balls! Because of the laser focus of the kinetic energy being transfered onto the body, hitting the epididymis can lead to serious injuries! If a dragging pain lingers for more than a couple of minutes, go to the ER! While the the smooth wire is pure sting, the one with the sphere on top has a little bit of extremel focussed thud. Getting hit by it creates an interesting sensation: First there is a sharp, focussed sting which then progresses to go deeper as thud.

The smallness makes the Pain Sticks good for hitting small and nimble areas you cannot target with larger toys. One friend of mine is using them to strike fear into his sub’s eyes when he did something wrong and is then hitting the fingers or toes of him. Again, caution is advised since the small bones in these body areas also break easily and you transmit a lot of force.

The PVC Grip

Since both sticks are made out of metal, they conduct electricity well. You can connect them to your e-stim power box using a pole clamp. Of course you will need a second pole for that which could either be a conductive loop, an anal or penis plug, a simple pad electrode or if your are extra devious, another of those sticks. Having wires danngling around is a bit annoying, but the feedback the sub is getting when such low mass, small area poles hit his skin, is best entertainment for any true sadist – and frankly requires a devote masochist. Like with every e-stim, you must ensure that the currency is not running over the chest! So hitting both nipples simultaneously is not possible! If you want to err at the side of caution, play below the waist.

The Kink the Pain Stick Gets after a Couple of Snaps

Some people who see mental toys instantly think off temperature play. These two toys are so so for it. Having little mass and being made out of a well temperature conducting material, they cannot contain temeratures for a long time. If you put them into ice water, they usually get the surrounding air’s temperatur pretty quickly. If you get heat them, the cool quickly. If you heat them too much, the entire rod will get hot and the PVC starts to warm up which is there point where you should stop right away!

Conclusion: Inexpensive, nasty impact toy.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Two versions mit distinct sensations … but takes a time to master properly & safely McHurt but only available in store Plain version: 5€
Inexpensive
Small & nimble Will bend out of shape when snapping Sphere Version: 6€
Easy to handle…

eVac Duo 800

Von | | , ,
Kommentar hinterlassen

The VAST eVac Duo 800 with all the Accessories

Vendor: VAST

2½ months ago I reviewed the updated eVac 2.0 from VAST. While it was a big improvement ergonomics wise to the five year old previous model, being a monopole needing a second pole to work for e-stim made it hard to handle in some situations. A couple of weeks ago VAST also released an update to the old duo-pole eVac. In this review I will look at the differences between the toys and how this toy works. So I recommend you read at least the construction section of the eVac 2.0 review before reading this one.

Construction

The eVac Duo 800 has the same basic design like the eVac 2.0, has the same 220mm length and is 3D printed out of the same polymer. As the name indicates, it is considerably larger at 80mm internal diameter. Inside are now two stainless steel rods. One sound like with domed attachment, one with a flat segment plate which sits in the top half of the cylinder in order to press against the pelvic area. Theoretically you could change the position of the two but that does not make sense for ergonomic reasons.

The Nuts holding the Two Rod Electrodes in Place

The nuts holding both rods in place are sitting next to each other on top. Because they are so close to each other, the nuts don’t have wings anymore for tightening but just small studs for better grip. In order to tighten the screws tight enough for a vacuum seal, a winged tool is included will grips the studs and thus allows for more torque.

Having two rods, the eVac Duo comes with two plugs to seal the cylinder when you are not using both or any of the rods. The hex key from the eVac 2.0 has been replaced with a small screw driver which is also now the standard for all eVacs. To ensure the longevity of the toy, a small tub of Wondergrease silicone grease is included. All the accessories come in a small drawstring bag to keep all the accessories together.

The Plate Electrode as a Counterpole for the Sounding Electrode

Playing with the eVac Duo 800

Since the eVac Duo has the same ergonomically shaped base, it has the same great and quick vacuum seal. Having a larger diameter and thus more volume, the Duo behaves a bit different. It takes longer for the vacuum to take effect because air needs to be evacuated. Because of this the vacuum comes a bit softer and can be more gradually increased. But it also means, you need to pump more. If you or your bottom are petit or skinny, ensuring contact between the skin and the cylinder feet is a bit of a challenge, especially when he starts moving his legs. Due to the larger footprint, the cylinder has a considerably larger leverage.

The Duo addressed the issue that the sounding electrode needs a counter pole in order to create a close electric circle. This electrode could either be a pad electrode which due to the lower mass could be ending up the spot where the sensation is felt or an anal electrode with is relatively far away resulting in cable chaos or a loop around the balls which can create unintended leverage effects when wiggling, breaking the vacuum seal. Now the second pole sits inside the vacuum tube. The bottom plate is very mass rich and covers a large footprint which ensures that the sensation is felt on the sounding electrode. Additionally the 4mm banana jacks sit next to each other which makes wiring easily.

The Sounding Electrode with the New Hex Toll for Easy Adjustment

The placements of the electrode offer the door for a new deviant form of play: Take the sounding electrode out, seal the hole with the plug, put a very mass-rich anal into your sub (yes, this leads to cable chaos again) and start pumping. Since the dick is most likely pointing downwards, the e-stim sensation will be felt at the pelvic area. If you not start to stimulate the sub and increase his arousal, causing the dick to jump upwards, the glans (and sometimes the shaft) makes contact with the rod, creating a tickling shock. If you really want to shock your bottom, you insulate the bottom of the contact plate with a piece of rubber. Then the only conduction point will be where the dick hits the rod, most likely starting to jump uncontrolled due to the pain, making contact again and again. Until this vicious feedback circle makes him get soft and most likely continuously touch the rod or top of the plate if he is not too small.

Left: eVac Duo 800
Right: eVac 500

Since the counter pole plate is made out of stainless steel, it conducts the currency very well, even without waterbased (special e-stim) lube for enhanced conductivity. In order to achieve a smooth e-stim sensation, the complete surface should touch the skin. Otherwise it will be a very pinchy experience. When adjusting it, be a bit careful and not pushing too hard. The leverage could otherwise push the cylinder off.

The eVac Duo 800 serves also an unexpected market: Vacuum cylinders for big boys! I can count myself lucky to have a few play buddies who have 6+cm dick diameter and who have a hard time finding accordingly sized vacuum cylinders. Naturally they are also on the far side of the length spectrum so 220mm length is a bit confining. But if you are having the same issues, VAST is probably able to print you a longer cylinder. Though if you exceed 250mm, the rods will be too short to stick out of the top.

Conclusion: Excellent large vacuum cylinder with an integrated duo pole e-stim circuit
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique combination of cock pumping and e-stim Opaque material VAST eVac Dup 800: 269€
Duo pole, no additional electrode needed A bit bulky and thus not suitable for really skinny and petit bottoms
Anatomic base for smoother vacuum seal and better pressure distribution
Versatile electrode
Vacuum cylinder works also without electrode
Easy to clean

Viper Chastity Cage

Von | | ,
Kommentar hinterlassen

The Kink3D Viper Chasitity Cage in Size R+ Wide with a Curved Base Ring

Vendor: Kink3D

In the past years, Locktober and NOvember have become cornerstones of the gay kinky (social media) calendar. If I look at the page views of my articles about chastity and the reader questions of the past 6 weeks (especially since Folsom Europe), chastity clearly has been on peoples’ minds! At the end of September last year I have reviewed the Kink3D Cobra, the probably most widely used male chastity cage in the world right now. In the lead up to the most locked season of the year, I am reviewing Kink3D’s newest chastity cage, the Viper.

Since the basic construction of both cages are the same, it will be more of a comparative review, highlighting difference between the two cages so you can decide which one is best for you. In my initial review and in-depth follow up, I explored at length the potential and different different play styles of chastity. So if you are new to this kind of play, I highly recommend reading those two articles first. If you are already a seasons chastee or have a Cobra and think about upgrading, dive in straight away.

If you live in Europe and want to start your chastity journey Locktober 1st, Kink3D has some local retailers in the EU now. So the toys ship quicker and you don’t have to deal with customs. I personally recommend VAST in Dortmund, because they have a large selection both in store and online. So if after a couple of days you realize that you need a smaller or larger base ring or even differently sized cage, they can quickly get you setup so you make it through the month securely and comfortably.

Construction

There are two general designs for male chastity devices: The belt-style which goes around the waist and through the groin like a piece of underwear and the cuff-barrel-style which just goes over the dick itself. The Viper – like the Cobra – follows the latter design principle.

The Kink3D Viper above the Cobra. Notice the Wider gap between the Base Ring and the Cage on the Viper

For the Viper, Kink3D completely re-designed the barrel-style cage. While the Cobra had an open design of different interconnected struts creating a cage-like look, at the Viper different panels create an almost completely closed barrel with just slots for ventilation, easier cleaning and pissing. To mark the transition from the shaft to the glans section, the Viper has a small reinforced ring but only opens up about a millimeter more in diameter. The Cobra had a distinctly bigger section for the glans. Both cage styles have the same connection mechanism to the base ring with a shackle which goes into the lock house and two studs which go into holes inside the base ring.

Both my cages are size R+ Wide. To my surprise, the Viper is actually considerably larger than the similarly sized Cobra! Since it is difficult to measure inside the cage, I am comparing outside measurements. Due to both cages having a wall strength of 4mm, it gives you an impression how much larger the Viper is compared to the Cobra. Both have an initial exterior width of 52mm. But while the Cobra tapers to 44mm before the glans section, the Viper tapers to 49mm which is about 11% wider! Attached to the base ring, the Viper offers also 5mm more length than the Cobra due to a wider gap between the cage and the base ring. This gives your balls a bit more space, good if you have meaty balls like mine, but also makes balls slipping through more easily. So you might need a differently shaped base ring. This larger space in combination with the gradual transition from shaft to glans section means that dick sits a bit more freely inside the Viper. Regardless which cage you choose, for a comfortable and satisfying long-term chastity experience, the cage needs to be the correct size! To achieve this, Kink3D offers both cage and base ring in various sizes. To find the right size for your dick, I have written a detailed section about finding the right cage and base ring size for you in my Cobra review.

Left the Kink3D Cobra, right the Viper. Despite both being R+ Wide Size, the Viper’s Shaft tapers less and the Glans Section is Bigger

Detail of the Connection Studs & Locking Shackle on the Cage and Holes and Lock House on the Base Ring

To attach the cage to the body, a base ring is put over dick and balls, like a cockring. The basering is slightly oval for a better anatomical fit. At the top of the ring sits the lock house and two hole which connect with the studs on the cage itself. This was, cage and ring align perfectly, firmly and securely. But even when aligned perfectly, putting the lock in and actually locking it, can be a bit tricky. It takes some patience and some experience to quickly lock the ring onto the cage. The ring come in three designs: Standard which are just straight, XD which are slightly thicker to decrease the gap between the ring and the balls to prevent small balls from slipping through and curved which are cureved backwards if you have meatier balls. The Viper shares the same base ring with the Cobra. So you can mix and match colors and designs, like the waist strap rings. This ring is a recently introduced collaboration with Mr S Leather in San Francisco. The ring has two lugs on top to thread a neoprene or leather belt through which pulls the chastity cage upwards and tighter to your body. I have not played with this combination yet so I cannot judge how it effects long-term comfort and wearability.

The Currently Available Colors, missing the White which I have somehow lost

Like all toys from Kink3D the Viper is 3D printed made out of PA12 nylon. While being more expensive than other polymers for 3D printing, it is considerably sturdier, an important feat for chastity cages which are subjected to a lot of physical stress through movement, moisture and warmth. The panels the cage is made out of are 4mm thick giving the cage a solid, high quality feel without any flex. This is thicker than the wall strength of metal cages and also thicker than most other polymer/ 3D printed cages. While the thick material makes the Viper a bit bulkier than other cages, I have not yet come across a genuine Kink3D cage which broke. Even after years of 24/7 usage, the Kink3D cages look, feel and work like the day they were first locked around your dick. All pictures of cracked and broken cages which have been sent to me, have turned out to be from cheap knock-offs.

The Basering, Lock & Cage – the Three Base Elements of the Kink3D Chastity Experience

Another testament to the great quality is the overall finish of the Viper. Unlike with other 3D printed toys, you cannot see the stepping. The surface is smooth, in a slink-mat finish. It is warm to the touch, easy to clean and does not attract finger prints. All edges are rounded and deburred to prevent chafing even during long-term wear.

The Viper comes with a standard Burg-Wächter internal lock which are keyed-alike. So the same keys which fit my lock from the 2024 Cobra also fit my 2025 Viper. This is good for my chastity play style where I always need a key close at hand. But if you want to securely lock your bottom, you can either get an individually keyed lock for $25, a seal secured key safe or a 3D printed seal secured lock replacement called Airlock. This sealed lock stud is actually the safest way to lock the chastity onto your bottom because a moderately skilled lock picker can pick the lock with a paper clip.

Long-term Wearing & CBT in the cage

As you would expect, the Viper is “just” a differently designed Cobra who shares the same great level of production quality. This makes the Viper like the Cobra the best cuff-barrel-style chastity cage currently available. If you find the right cage size and base ring, the ergonomic design makes the cage almost unnoticeable. This is even more true to the Viper than for the Cobra. Since your dick is almost encased in the polymere tube, you even feel less. With the Cobra, you might feel a bit of chafing of your underwear or skin folds getting caught at a strut when getting hard. In the Viper you of course feel your hard-on struggling against the material. But except that, you feel nothing. This is an eerie feeling. You certainly feel that there is an object between your legs. But you just feel the object, not what is contained inside. The Viper is a bit more noticeable than the Cobra since it is a bit bulkier and heavier. But still, after wearing it for a couple of days, the feeding fades away and the cage becomes a part of your body.

Look Inside the Viper’s Barrel

While being a bit bulkier and more protruding, the Viper is still unnoticeable for the untrained eye. Below chinos and jeans or even thin cloth suit trousers, you cannot tell the difference between a big package and a chastity bulge. Of course, through jockstraps, singlets, tight-fitting rubber or speedos, you can clearly tell what you are wearing.

Like last year, I gave this new cage an airport security test flying to the USA. Neither German nor US security noticed the cage, neither on a body scanner, nor during a pad down because my Engelbert Strauss pants have to bulky pockets. If you run into issues, you can always claim that it is a medical device. If that does not work, I recommend traveling with the key to unlock if asked. While technically not illegal, the security can detain you if they want to. Having your dick locked 24/7 is not worth missing a flight.

As an uncut guy with a PA, I like that the Viper is a bit more spacious. With the Cobra, my piercing would sometimes get lodged between the bars. If that happened as an unlucky angle, the piercing would jam my frenulum against the firm cage, causing extreme pain! Inside the Viper, my dick is well contained and content. In all the month wearing the cage, I never had to adjust my dick inside the cage.

The Viper’s Sexy Silhouette which Reminds me of Super Cars

Pissing was also easier with the Viper. Due to physics, the tip of the dick is drawn to openings. Since there is only one up from, my foreskin opening usually aligned fairly well with it. And if not, it is the only outpour there is, guiding the stream. Nevertheless, pissing when caged is still a bit of gamble. I felt confident enough to use a pissoir with the Viper and mostly did not wet my pants in the process – but sometimes disaster happened. So if you want to be completely safe, sit down pissing.

Since there are almost no holes, you really have to take the Viper off for cleaning. Especially when you are cut, you could wear the Cobra almost indefinitely because water and soap could reach every spot. With the Viper, I recommend taking the cage off once a week. If you are a smell fetishist, the Viper is definitively for you! The precum, piss and sweat quickly create a rich aroma inside the barrel. A friend of mine puts the cage in front of a gas mask hose when milking his chastity sub so he can enjoy his own musk.

Being almost closed off completely, you can also play less with the dick inside. While I could fit pad electrodes inside the cage, getting the wires out proofed impossible. Wax play does not work at all and sounding is very hard. If the piss slit does not perfectly align, there is little way to get a hold off the dick to nudge it in the right place. You can also not apply lateral pressure when the sound pushes the dick a bit back. Cumming inside the cage is also more difficult. The holes up front are a bit wider than in the Cobra. But frenulum stimulation is more difficult. What works better than in the Cobra is applying vibrations. The barrel is better at transmitting the vibrations than the Cobra’s cage bars.

The Additional Space a Curved gives your Balls in the Right vs. a Standard Ring on the Left

Speaking of “play”, there are some… characters in the community who will punch you into your balls “because you obviously like it.” This is pretty dangerous when wearing a chastity cage! The exposing of the balls and leverage of the ring and the pressure the firm and sturdy cage can put on the testicles can lead to serious injuries, resulting in losing your balls in the worst case! So if you are a dom, top or sadist don’t be an asshole and ask for consent before busting somebody’s balls.

While technically is it possible to controlled busting somebody’s balls while he is locked in the Viper, it takes some practice and precise targeting. I would only recommend doing it with toys of the fist. Nut kicks are simply to random for this.

Conclusion: Comfortable and even more secure chastity for long-term wear
Pro Cons Toy Price
Large range of possible sizes for perfect fit Lock is a bit difficult to insert Kits (including cage, base ring & lock) $190 – $240
Can be worn over extended periods of time Has to be taken off for cleaning
Completely sealed of for less stimulation Cage $145 – $190
Very well made
Sturdy Base Ring $45 – $65
Randomized Lock $25
Airlock $15
Single Key Sleeve $25 – $30
Double Key Sleeve $30 – $35

 

eVac 2.0

Von | | , , ,
Kommentar hinterlassen

Vendor: VAST

The VAST eVac 2.0 Disassembled

Exactly five years ago I reviewed the original eVac from VAST. Back then, we were all stuck at home, having too much time on our hands to play with ourselves. So let’s see if this second edition is a real upgrade, especially now that we are playing in sex clubs much more again.

Construction

Like its predecessor the eVac 2.0 is a standard vacuum cylinder. The tube has an internal length of 220mm and comes in two diameters: 50mm and 60mm. If you have a really big dick, VAST can probably make you a custom larger one to fit your junk. Laterally on the domed top sits a standard vacuum valve from CPC which is compatible with all common vacuum pump hoses. The tip ends in a thread with a wing nut which is essential for sealing a vacuum around the accessories which turn the eVac (2.0) a unique e-stim toy.

Unlike its predecessor it is not made out of acrylic parts glues together buy 3D printed, making it both lighter and more nimble. The ready to use eVac 2.0 with the half-dome weights 350g vs 440g of the old eVac in the same configuration. So even when the sub wiggles a lot or you want to move around during selfplay, it sits more securely. Another advantage is easy cleaning. Both the tube and the stainless steel rod are dishwasher safe. The aluminum half-sphere is not! After a dishwasher cycle, both the seal and the thread are degreased. In order to create a secure vacuum seal, use low viscosity silicone lube.

The Thread on top with the Wing Nut unscrewed, Electrode inserted and the Plug ready to replace the Sound

While the old eVac was a bit clunky, the 2.0 is almost stylish. The coloring caused a bit of a dispute among my testees: Unlike the clear acrylic of the old model, the printing polymer has a dark steel blue color and is opaque. Silicone oil will make the material a little bit more translucent and will make the growing dick glide up the walls more easily. Both the tube and the stainless steel rod are dishwasher safe. The aluminum half-sphere is not! After a dishwasher cycle, both the seal and the thread are degreased. In order to create a secure vacuum seal, use low viscosity silicone lube.

 

Another big advantage of the new manufacturing technique is the anatomically shaped base. The old one had a flat, almost absurd wide causing leverage problems base with a rounded edge. The new one not only distributes the pressure more evenly around the groin but creates a better and smoother vacuum seal, even when moving around.

The eVac 2.0 comes with two accessories to put into the thread on top. The first is a simple, yet essential one: A small 3D printed plug with an eyelet on top to seal the tube. When this plug is inserted, you can use the eVac 2.0 like every other vacuum cylinder. The star of the show which gives the eVac its name is a 280mm long stainless steel rod. This rod comes in 8mm diameter (what I chose) or 10mm diameter for the more advanced player. The rod diameter is indicated by the last to digits of the product namen; my eVac 2.0 with the 8mm rod is aptly named 508, the 10mm version would be names 510. One end is rounded, the other is has jack for a 4mm banana plug. The final accessory is a milled and polished aluminum half-sphere which flows into a short tube on top. The aluminum not only safes weight but enhances conductivity. The rod fits through the tube and can be fixed in place with a small setscrew using the enclosed hex key.

The Anatomical Shaped Base

Everything is packed in a drawstring bag for easy and scratch-free storage.

When I first read the price, I was surprised. A good acrylic vacuum cock cylinder which does not have and ergonomic base costs around 100€. A premium of just 80€ for the e-stim/ sounding capabilities is more than fair.

Playing with the eVac 2.0

First, let’s look how the eVac works as a simple vacuum cylinder. In order to use the cylinder, loose the wing nut, put the plug into the hole on top and tighten the wing nut again. Due to the seal inside the wing nut, the cylinder is now completely seal. Now you just need to put your dick into the tube, attach your favorite vacuum pump to the valve and start pumping. Since the cylinder is on the shorter and narrower side of size, you can quickly create a strong vacuum. This is actually an advantage since most people overestimate their dick size and buy too big cylinders for an even and comfortable vacuum.

Having played with vacuum cylinders for almost a decade, the anatomically shaped base is a game changer! It makes wearing the cylinder so much more comfortable and creates a quicker, more secure seal without adding uncomfortable pressure. While other cylinders due to their flat base can become comfortable over time due to leverage pressing against pelvic bones, I did not encounter this using the eVac 2.0.

The Banana Jack on top of the Sound

While the eVac 2.0 makes pumping and wearing it for longer periods comfortable, two small pieces of advice regarding pumping:

  1. Pumping does not make your dick larger! There is an urban legend that exposing your dick to vacuum over extended periods of time, makes it grow. That is a myth! The dick will temporarily become a bit bigger and squishy. And yes, the more intense circulation and usage will help your erecting be stronger and harder (that’s why vacuum pumps can be used to treat erectile dysfunctions). The dick might feel bigger and longer due to that. But it will not grow.
  2. What can happen if you pump too quickly with too strong vacuum that you damage the tissue inside your dick. Then your dick will be constantly bigger but just squishy. This is aptly called “Sponge Dick”. In order to avoid it pump slowly, carefully and not going to the max vacuum. There should always only be a (light) horny draft, not painful suction!

The material this toy is made out of caused some discussion under my testees. Some drone players loved it for the dark, complete coverage look. Others did not like that you cannot see what is (happening) inside. In good light conditions, you can see the shadow of the meat inside. But under sexy darkroom lighting it is almost impossible to make out if there dick is touching the electrode or not. For many pump pigs, seeing your dick grow inside the cylinder is a big part of the turn on. This is of cause not possible with the dark, almost opaque material.

The eVac with the Plug for Only Vacuum Play

What sets the eVac apart from other vacuum cylinders is the central rod you can istall using the wing nut up top. The rounded tip is made for easy urethra insertion. Before putting it into your dick, you should disinfect the rod properly to avoid infection. Afterwards generously apply (sterile) lube and put the tip into your piss slit. Afterwards generously apply (sterile) lube and put the tip into your piss slit. The most common lube is water-based which had good conductivity and is easy to clean. An pro-alternative is silicone fat (= high viscosity silicone oil). It has a lower conductivity than water-based lube so you have to crank up your box a bit more. But unlike water-based lube, it does not get absorbed by the surrounding tissue or washed away by pre-cum. So when you plan on playing for longer periods of time, give that a try. Though it is a bit messier to clean. Since the rod does not move inside the cylinder, the process takes a bit of practice. The best way to do it is to unscrew the wing nut so the rod can move freely, push the rod all the way down and insert the sound outside the cylinder. Then hold the rod while pushing the cylinder onto your body, tighten the wing nut and start pumping.

The eVac 2.0 can now also be ordered with an 8mm rod which is 2mm less diameter than its predecessor. This should make the sounding part accessible to more people. When it comes to sounds, 8mm is actually the sweet spot between still being able to take it comfortably and not being “pointy”, thus getting down gently. Still, for an inexperience player, 8mm is still significant to pass through the sphincter inside on the tip so some prestretching is recommended.

The Anatomical Shaped Base

There are two ways to get the sound deeper into your dick. First, you can of course unscrew the wing nut and push the rod deeper. In some instances this can loosen the vacuum so you have to re-pump a bit once you have tightened the screw. The other – and unanimously voted hotter – way is by increasing the vacuum. The dick will temporarily increase in size, thus sucking the sound in deeper and deeper.

If you add e-stim to the play, it is getting even hotter! The more contact the dick makes with the rod, the lower the e-stim sensation is felt. It is only subtle, but noticeable. If you then break the vacuum and the dick shrinks a bit, the e-stim sensation will become a bit more intense again.

Of course, in order to create an e-stim sensation, you need a second pole. This could be a conductive rubber loop around the balls or an anal electrode. The e-stim sensation is always felt at the electrode with the lower mass and the smaller contact area. So if you just use a conductive loop, be prepared to only feel the sensation there if the rod goes DEEP. VAST also offers a cylinder eVac Duo 800 with an Ø80mm vacuum tube and a second conductive rod which pressed against your pelvis which costs 269€. I did not have a chance to play with it so I cannot tell how well it works. But if you are looking for a completely integrated vacuum e-stim toy, check it out.

The Bell-Shaped Electrode Attachement

For those of you who do not like sounding, the eVac 2.0 comes with a bell-shaped half shell which can be attached to the rod using a setscrew and a small hex key. This accessory can either be used to limit the depth the rod can go into the dick or if you fix it at just the tip of the rod as the contact surface. Then the half-dome envelops the hard glans pressing against it. Since the contact area is larger, the e-stim sensation is smoother. Depending on where the frenulum presses against the electrode, it can get stimulated intensely which lead to a handsfree orgasm of two testees. Be aware, that cumming from e-stim takes practice and does not come naturally! Most people who start out with e-stim hope to easily cum from it which is the exception, not the rule. While I am on the topic of warnings, be extremely careful when the bottom wears a piercing! As I said, currency always takes the route of lowest resistance which as soon as it touches metal is that focused path. Be extremely careful when ramping the sub in, especially when he is uncut and the Prince Albert is covered by foreskin. If he gets hornier, the foreskin retracts and the piercing makes contact with the electrode, he could be in (unintended and unsexy) excruciating pain!

If you play with e-stim, I highly recommend to wear isolating gloves when handling the eVac 2.0. Currency always takes the way of lowest resistance and thus the shortest way, so you should be fine. But there is a very small chance of currency passing through your heart when touching the rod with your bare fingers. So if you want to be extra safe (if you are not already into [heavy] rubber), wear insulating gloves.

Conclusion: Excellent vacuum cylinder with a naughty & nice e-stim twist.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique combination of cock pumping and e-stim Opaque material VAST eVac 500: 179€

eVac 600: 189€
Anatomic base for smoother vacuum seal and better pressure distribution
Versatile electrode
Vacuum cylinder works also without electrode
Easy to clean

 

Doxy Bullet

Von | | ,
Kommentar hinterlassen

Vendor: Lovehoney

The Doxy Bullet

It does not happen often, but sometimes I actually forget to review toys I buy. Back in the fall of 2022 I have bought the Doxy Bullet because I have gotten several reader questions from pro doms and FtMs about this toy. I played with it, I tested it and I forgot about it – until earlier last week when a *trans friend of mine asked me about it. Confident that I have reviewed this vibrator ages ago, I searched my website for the review and could not find it. So, with just a delay of approximately 2½, finally here’s the review of the Doxy Bullet.

Before diving into the review, I want to thank the front hole rocking testees who patiently and very open mindedly helped me in exploring the qualities of the Doxy in these rather uncharted nether regions for me. And finally a warm welcome to the about 20% of my readers who don’t have a dick! I dedicate this review especially to you.

Construction

Unlike the others massagers from Doxy, the Bullet is a unibody design without a vibrating head. Like all Doxy products it is made out of die cast aluminum. The tip resembles a bullet yet after a short head section it tapers towards the middle and opens up again towards the bottom. Back when I have bought mine, it was only available in brushed silver. Now is also comes in a brushed rose.

Like with the Bullet’s big brothers, power unit and battery reside in the bottom half while the vibrating unit sits in the head section. With the Bullet, there is not movable head but the vibration is directly transferred onto the aluminum body.

The bottom is made out of silicone. In the middle sits a power button. Pressing it for about a second will start the vibration. It always starts with the first of seven programs.

  1. Continuous slow speed
  2. Continuous high speed
  3. Wave
  4. Low frequency bursts (about 4 vibrations per second)
  5. High frequency bursts (about 7 vibrations per second)
  6. Two shorts bursts followed by one second of continuous
  7. 13 shorts bursts, 2½ seconds of continous, 8 long bursts, 2½  seconds of continous

The Doxy Bullet with its Packaging and Charging Cable

Left and right of the power button are the contacts for the magnetic USB-A charging cable. Above the contacts is a white LED which flashes when charging und lights up when completely charged. The charging time from a completely empty battery is about 1:45h. Depending on which program you run, you get around 2h of play time. Sadly, the small magnets are not that strong. So carefully place the Bullet when charging it. This no MagSafe level of connection!

With an overall length of 11.7cm and a diameter of 2.5cm and a weight of 85g the Bullet is very small and fits in almost every pocket (or jockstrap pouch). It is completely waterproof for hot- or bathtub travel. That also makes it easy to clean when playing with lube. Despite being almost completely made out of aluminum, you cannot boil or autoclave it to sanitize (yes, that was a real reader question…) since it is an electric device! Heat will destroy the electronics and can make the battery explode! For cleaning, please just use warm soap water, sanitizer or vinegar cleaner if you want to be sure. Just rinse the toy with clear water properly afterwards if you want to insert it into a front hole again.

The Control Panel

The Bullet comes in a tooled 5.1×13.5cm aluminum cylinder. In the bottom half is slot for the vibrator, the charging cable curls up in the top. While this is a very high quality and nice packaging, I personally never use it. It is simply too bulky and big compared to the small toy.

Playing with the Doxy Bullet

The primary use case for the Bullet was front hole stimulation. The rounded design makes it perfect for insertion and targeting the sexy itches where they occur. Due to the shape of the body, it offers two distinct kinds of feelings. The vibration is strongest at the apex of the head. There you can really feel a relatively “deep” vibration. While at the tip it is more of a buzzing sensation. The vibrations quickly fade the lower you get down the shaft and it is almost unnoticeable at the bottom.

The small form factor which brings limited leverage of the vibration unit, it is far from being a strong as its bigger brothers. But compared to other finger vibrators which I have played around with, it is one of if not the strongest one. That’s why the Doxy has become a travel companion for many *trans friends of mine and a standard item in my toy bag.

But since about 98% of my play partners and testees have a dick, most of the review experience was gathered on this kind of genitals.

The Body Shape of the Bullet with the Distinct Head Section

On a penis, it is more of a teasing toy. Being so small, it is best applied to the frenulum where the limited intensity can have the biggest effect due to the high number of nerve endings. But even when pressing the apex against the tip of the ventral groove and selecting a focused program like 4 or 5, it will be difficult to induce an orgasm. For this deeper, stronger, the entire glans shaking vibrations are necessary. The Bullet is a nice toy in an edging or milking scene. Using TPR cock rings, you can even attach it to a dick. But most like the battery will run out before seamen starts leaking.

The nimble design makes the Bullet a nifty toy for teasing locked boys in open-design cages like the Kink3D Cobra or Viper. The small top can fit between the bars and still reach the foreskin/ frenulum. The stimulation is strong enough to cause an hardon. But even with the most desperate boys who have been chaste for ages, the Bullet could not milk out an orgasm.

The effect on the rear side greatly depends on the bottom and his prostate sensitivity. In my sling, I had guys who JUMPED when pressing the Bullet against their perineum. Sticking it into the anus and starting it can have the same effect. It feels a bit like the light humming sensation of a low power setting bi-polar plug. If you can reach the prostate inside the rectum depends on the bottom’s anatomy. But if you can, the contrast of smooth metal caressing the glans while shocks of vibration are hitting the organ is delightful.

The Charging Cable Attached to the Bullet

Especially the deeper vibrations around the apex are useful the reigniting nerve endings which have become numb. When putting clamps on a body part, like the nipples, the pressure nerves will get used to the stimulation and over time get numb. Vibration can reactivate the nerves. If you are extra-evil you lightly move the vibrating Bullet against the nipple right after taking the clamps off. Pressing against the nipple will have the adverse effect because the nerves have not recovered yet.

Like I said, the form factor severely limits the vibration power. So the Bullet is not strong enough to cause stickies in diapers or stimulate locked dicks by just pressing it against the cage. But it is a perfect, small and nasty surprise to keep in your pocket for surprising your bottom in unexpected situations.

Conclusion: Small, nimble and for its size surprisingly strong vibrator
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Relatively strong considering the size Not strong enough to milk a penis Lovehoney £49.99
Interesting programs Magnets for charging cable are quite weak
Long battery life
Completely waterproof

Fetters The Orb

Von | | , ,
Kommentar hinterlassen

Fetters The Orb CBT Impact Toy

Vendor: Regulation

If this design looks familiar, you have probably seen toys massage tools from Bongers which are made in the USA. Usually pervertables are cheaper than dedicated toys made out of fetish materials like leather or rubber. But even before the tariff war madness started, Bongers were already twice as expensive in the EU than this toy. So it definitively worth taking a look at it now!
Construction
Regulation calls this impact implement “Paddle” which I find a bit misleading. In my imagination a paddle is a blade- or shovelshaped impact surface leading to a handle section. The Orb however is 7.3cm diameter sphere (or orb) of soft foam covered in soft black garment leather. Around the circumference of the ball runs a metal ring covered in red leather keeping the ball in place.

Attached to this is a 32cm long piece of spring steel covered in a spiral of red leather. The lower 12cm of the rod are covered in two layers of soft leather to form a thicker handle section. The leather sheath is sown together with a cross stitching which is a nice design touch. Sadly the edges are neither burnished or deburred. Due to the leather being soft, the edges do not feel sharp. But these finishing touches missing are kind of weird in an overall very refined and high quality toy.

Detail of the Stitching and the D-ring for Storage

At the bottom a perpendicular leather strap is holding a small D-ring in place for easy storage of the toy.

Play with The Orb

The main play area for The Orb is CBT, or more precisely ball busting. The head is small and nimble enough to fit well between the thighs, targeting the small family jewels. It’s round shape makes the balls nicely jump to the left and the right if they are not kept in place by a ball stretcher. Being made purely out of foam, the impact sensation is pure thud and has an intensity sweetspot for this delicate body area. Since the shaft is made out of stiffer spring steel, it will develop a bit of momentum and on the other hand not transfer the entire kinetic energy onto the balls. Being so stiff, I would not recommend using it for snapping the balls. The intensity will be very high and hard to control.

The Foam Sphere being held in Place by a Leather Covered Metal Ring

If you want to snap, do it on the ass or the thighs. The Orb is a great thuddy yet focused impact toy. Due to the small impact surface, it is not really made for warm-up. But hitting just one spot can create agony even with minimal sting throughout the scene. If you hit hard, The Orb is a bit of a bruiser but not too bad if you don’t hit any veins directly.

However, if you want to add (a bit of) sting to your play, twist it 90° and hit with the orb’s metal frame. While the sting is a bit softened by the soft leather lining, being made out of metal, there is still a lot of kinetic energy transferred onto the subs body. Because of this I would not recommend hitting the balls like that. There chances of accidentially hitting the epididymis or the seminal dutcs are too high which almost always leads to serious injuries and loosing the testicle. For an intense glans spanking, bastinado or hitting the sensitive area between the thighs and the ass cheeks just RIGHT, this small impact area is perfect!

The Unfinished Edge of the Handle above the Leather Covered Shaft

In addition to that, you can also grab the toy by the orb and hit with the handle. Despite being covered in soft leather, it has some sting to it, especially when you hit with the cross stitching. This is firmer and textured and this will sting more. But be careful when you are hitting. The D-ring will flap around and also accelerate, leading to very stingy afterclap.

Conclusion: Thuddy ball impact toy with a stingy side

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Unique design & sensations

Handle a bit unfinished

Regulation

£34.99

Easy to target

Strong stingy side despite thuddy heart

Fetters The Claw

Von | | , ,
Kommentar hinterlassen

Fetters the Claw CBT Paddle from Regulation

Vendor: Regulation

Over the past year, I have accumulated quite a few new impact toys, unintentionally almost all from Regulation. Since I haven’t done an impact special in quite a while, let’s kick off the new year with looking at tools helping you „reward“ your sub when he has been a bad boy.

Construction

The Claw has a traditional paddle design with a 71mm round head that flows into a 140mm long handle. It is made out of two layers of thick bridle leather with a metal spring in the middle for added stability for years to come. The two layers are sown and glued together; the edges are beveled, deburred and burnished. This gives the paddle a quality feel and it lies solidly in the hand. A nice touch is the embossed Fetters logo below the spiked pad.

While one side of the head is just the smooth bridle leather, on the other side there is a 59mm round firm foam pad covered in red leather. On top of the pad there is a circle of eight really pointy metal cones with an additional one in the center, giving the toy its name.

The Smooth Side of the Paddle Stinges quite a Bit

At the bottom of the shaft a lever-operated carabiner is riveted onto it. The eyelet diameter of 10mm is large enough to attach the paddle to a belt loop which is a great additional feature compared to just a D-ring for playroom storage. Since due to the ergonomics of this paddle you will not deal big blows with the Claw (see below), I do not really miss a loop for the wrist.

Play with The Claw

This section is going to be divided in two parts. First I will talk about the smooth leather side, then about the spiked one because this is truly a two-sided toy.

Regulation markets this toy as a ball busting paddle. Because of this the head is small and the handle just as long as it needs to comfortably hold the toy. This way it is nimble and can easily target small body areas. It is narrow enough to smack the balls between thighs as long as there is enough space for the balls to hang freely (for example on a bondage chair). But it is equally good for falaka or hitting that sensitive spot where the thighs meet the buttocks. Having such a relatively small impact area, it focuses the kinetic energy and this impact force on a small area, making the Claw a bit of a bruiser. Having a shorts handle, it is a bit difficult to gather momentum and thus deal really heavy blows on the ass and thigh. Since swats on the balls are generally supposed to be bit softer and more controlled, this is not really a negative thing.

The Carabiner is for Easy Attaching and Storing but Developes Momentum when Hitting

The spring inside the paddle makes it just a little bit bounce and thus perfect for tapping and snapping. When tapping the carabiner swings and develops momentum. My recommendation is holding the shaft on the rivet between thumb, index and middle finger while restraining the carabiner inside the palm. Being so small, the paddle is also a bit head-heavy and unbalanced. But since it is not made for heavy and continuous hitting, it is unlikely that it will make the wrist tired.

Since the bridle leather is smooth, firm and has a lacquered surface, the impact sensation is stingy. Being so light, it is not really made for warm-up. It either stings or is almost unnoticeable.

So much for the smooth side. Now to the spikes.

These Spikes give The Claw its Name

Let me reiterate: The spikes are pointy and sharp! They are not like on other paddles where the spikes are dulled or cone-shaped rivets. You can cause serious injuries with them, especially on the balls. The scrotum skin is thin and sensitive. Light tapping with this toy is ok. Any stronger force will lead to breaking the skin and cause bleeding. This effect is even intensified when moving the toy in a scratching movement. It is actually a good thing that due to the ergonomics you cannot deal hard blows. This could lead to flesh wounds! The padded pad gives the spikes a bit of bounce but it does not really softens the blows. It is a nice design feature and makes the paddle a little bit more intimidating looking but I do not see the functional use for it since it does not dull the blows. So, what are the spikes good for? I used them for a combination of sensation play and mind fuck. Drag them over the bottom’s skin, varying the pressure from a light scratch to digging in deeply, telling him that soon they will dig into his body, propelled by full force, will most likely inflict terror. Then start light tapping, scratch a bit again, play with his fear and anticipation. Due to being so sharp, do not used gear to soften them. They will tear rubber, scratch leather and rip lycra or cotton.

Detail of the Stichting and Finished Edges

One unexpected use case is (AB)DL play: If you put on several layers of diapers you need to perforate the outside plastic layer of the inside diaper to allow the liquid to get to the next layer. You need to do this without destroying containment of the absorbent stuffing so randomly ripping with a knife does not work. The Claw is perfect for this! The spikes puncture, rip and tear the plastic while keeping the stuffing intact. This also means that the ass is protected from injuries during the process. And if your little is naughty, the Claw is a great, not too severe OTK paddle.

Conclusion: Nasty small paddle with a dangerously mean side

Pros

Cons

Where to get

Price

Small and nimble for precise hitting

… that flops around when hitting

Regulation

£29.99

With the coupon code ToyTorture you get 10% off your purchase

High quality feel

A bit unbalanced

Carabiner for easy attachment…