Schlagwort-Archiv: Leather

Asylum Muzzle

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The Mr S Asylum Muzzle

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Construction

The main part of this muzzle is a 280x85mm sized piece of leather which has been thermally molded to hug the back of the head. In the center of it a 265mm long zipper embedded in another leather piece runs from the bottom. Both the zipper itself and the surrounding leather piece are framed with a piping to give the leather piece some structure while maintaining its flexibility and softness.

Detail of the Leather Piece which goes onto the Back of the Head

On both ends the leather base strap flows into two small straps on each side. Through rivets small flaps are formed which house normal buckles. The rivets also hold small leather patches in place which prevent hair getting caught in the buckles. Onto the upper buckles and anatomically shapes blindfold can be attached. The lower ones are for a mouth shield. Both pieces feature long straps so the Asylum Muzzle can accommodate almost every size of head from small to really large. Depending on the head shape and size the straps either run above or over the ears but since they are made out of soft leather, they are not distracting.

Front View of the Mr S Asylum Muzzle

All leather pieces and straps are made out of a double layer of soft garment leather. Except the lip which protects the hair from the zipper that is only a single layer with for unknown reasons the soft side faces the zipper and not the hair. Also, the little patches under the buckles are a single layer of a different type of leather that on some of my eight ones feel a bit “cardboardy”; I would have wished for a double layer of the same soft garment leather. But this is just the gear perfectionist inside me speaking. Especially the bottom does not feel the difference and the leather is soft enough to wrap around the head easily.

Playing with Asylum Muzzle

The bad news first: If you are not playing with only one person who has the muzzle adjusted to his size, putting it on is a bit of a pain in the ass. First, attach the blindfold in a medium setting. Then place the main body on the back of the head, wrap the blindfold around the head and place it in the ideal position over the eyes. Then fetter the loose straps n a setting that keeps that position and adjust the already fettered straps on the other side in the same setting. Finally, put the face shield over the nose and attach the straps so that it stays centered. Of course, you can do it the other way round but to block out the most light, it is better to put the mouth shield over the blindfold. Naturally, if the attachments are already adjusted correctly, simply open the zipper and put it on like you would with every other hood.

The Mouth Shield

Now that everything is nice and tight in place, let the fun begin. As complicated and annoying as the putting on process sounds, once the top got used to the design and figured out how to do it swiftly, putting on the different covers, adjusting the strap has the same sensual quality as adjusting my beloved Bishop Head Harness. The Asylum Muzzle is made out of the same soft material so like the head harness it needs no breaking in period but just envelopes the sub’s head as softly and tightly as you desire.

Detail of a Buckle

Unlike with the Bishop Head Harness, the covers are not attached using snap fasteners but are right on the skin. This makes the blindfold more effective and depending on the head shape comes close to the shielding of an Ultra Blindfold. The mouth shield almost feels like a leather glove covering the mouth and the nose, creating the immersion of good glove over mouth play. When breathing in, the soft leather is sucked towards the mouth and nose and restricting breathing just a little bit – similar to the Leather Bag Hood. Not enough to make you suffocate but just enough to remind you that you are confined.

Detail of the Rough Leather of the Zipper and Buckle Cover

Mr S offered the same two cover design in a full coverage hood, obviously called the Asylum Hood. The design is older and through padded eye covers and lacing in the back more extreme than the Asylum Muzzle. I had a chance to try out both and for several reasons chose the muzzle over the hood. First, I am a bit of a claustrophobe so I am more comfortable with the “limited” leather coverage compared to a full hood. The second reason follows out of the first one: The less coverage leaves the ears, part of the forehead, the front of the neck and the top of the head still accessible for reassuring pats and caressing, ear nibbling, choking and whispering. Third, especially at summer events like Folsom or when wearing other heavy gear like straitjackets, overheating can be a problem, especially at the head. The airiness of the Asylum Muzzle helps to prevent that to a certain degree.

Detail of the Zipper

If you look what I have written above, the Asylum Muzzle is a bit like a best of off my favorite Mr S head gear. And it truly is. Yes, it has some drawbacks like no d-rings to attach it to bondage points or restraints to it. But since the leather is so soft, you can easily put a collar around the neck after putting the muzzle on. Or even put another muzzle or head harness over it. If you are not using both covers and the sub is an active one, flinging around his head, the buckles flap around which can be annoying. But I still love the sensual qualities, the perfect equilibrium of isolation and confinement and accessibilities so much that I gladly overlook the weak points of an otherwise unique and great piece of bondage gear.

Conclusion: Sensual, versatile and effective piece of head gear with small flaws.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Effective cover of eve and mouth Difficult to put on to new subs Mr S Leather $309.95
Even with all covers attached, leaves parts of the head accessible for play No roller buckles
Sometimes rough leather side is placed inconveniently

When not using all covers, unused buckles are inconvenient
Sensual experience putting it on
Glove over mouth effect
Collars and other pieces of head gear can be worn over it

 

Lederbondage Leather Sleepsack

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Vendor: Lederbondage.com

Let’s start this review with a bit of German leather history: About 1 ½ decades ago, there was a kinky leather craftsman working for VW in Wolfsburg. By day he clad car interiors in leather, by night he crafted some exceptional pieces of bondage gear – including as far as I know ten sleepsacks which are called “VW sleepsacks” by their owners. I could not find out for what reason but this guy stopped making gear over a decade ago.

The Lederbondage.com Leather Sleepsack

Fast forward to the nowish time. One of my closest friends happens to own one of those sleepsacks. He knew I wanted one for my playroom so he got in touch with my other friends and they pooled for the birthday gift. He got in touch with a local leather tailor, sent his sleepsack as a sample, got my measurements and asked what features my ideal sleepsack should have and now after 2 ¼ years and many messages, I am reviewing one of the signature pieces of bondage gear in my playroom.

Detail of the Collar with the V-neck opening and Locking Roller Buckle

Construction

The cocoon-like body of the sleepsack is made out of 1.4mm thick medium-grain cow hide which is really soft. The entire sleepsack is lined with this hide so you end up with an almost 3mm thick layer of leather. But since the leather is so soft, is does not feel stiff but just hugs the sub’s body.

What now follows is all individually bespoke and can be crafted to your desires and needs. I went for a traditional neck to foot zipper. It is the easiest way to get into a sleepsack and especially in long-term scenarios more comfortable than to lay on a back zipper. I chose five runner for my zipper to create different opening for the crotch for example. To be honest, in all the play I had with the sleepsack, I only needed three runner (one to close, two to open up the crotch), because I ordered my sleepsack with tit flaps for easy nipple access. They measure 13x13cm on the outside with giving access to an area of 10x10cm and are attached using Velcro. The inside is smooth leather but I am sure you can also get it with spikes and pins for continuous stimulation.

Detail of the D-rings of Rope Tightening

I chose several means to increase the bondage and leather encapsulation sensation. First, there is the collar. It is attached to the sleepsack with a wide v-neck in the front so it ends with my jaw line without being uncomfortable around the neck. Through this design there is no gap between a hood and the sleepsack and if I want to wear a muzzle or a hood with an attached collar, it still fits because the zipper ends below the neck. Around the collar there is a belt with a locking roller buckle and D-rings for the psychological effect of being locked inside the sleepsack. It is a purely psychological effect because once your arms are inside the arm pockets which I commissioned and the zippers are closed, any person with my rough body shape is not able to escape the sleepsack.

Detail of the Belt’s Roller Buckle

On each side of the sleepsack, there are 8 welded 7mm wire strength stainless steel D-rings riveted with leather flaps using six rivets. Through these thick bridle leather belts with double thorn roller buckles can be threaded to increase the bondage tightness or adjust the fit if you are slimmer than me. In addition to them, there are 8 smaller D-rings with “just” one rivets attached each side of the zipper. They are for threading rope through them for an ever tighter bondage and adding a different color to the all black sleepsack. On each shoulder and on the feet pocket there is another big D-ring. While they can be used to tied the sleepsack to the bed, I added them to be suspended inside the sleepsack either hanging on the shoulders or in a hammock like setup.

In order to unleash the true long-term potential of the sleepsack, I commissioned a cushion to put between the legs. This way there is not friction on the ankles and knees which would limit the time inside the sleepsack. The firmness of foam is soft enough to be comfortable jet firm enough to keep the joints from pressing against each other. The seam is one big piping so it is completely smooth.

Detail of the Padded Leg Devider

Another advantage of having your sleepsack made by a leather tailor is that each sleepsack is made to measure. He does not simply purchase a sleepsack body and adds straps and D-rings as the customers asks, but builds everything from scratch. Through this, he knows his product inside out and if necessary can do alterations. Last year, I worked out my thighs a bit too much and gained so much muscle mass that I could not close the zipper around the legs anymore. I just send it in and he added two pieces of leather just around my thighs so the sleepsack maintained his overall fit. While the sleepsack feels solid and is made for scenes and generations to come, if you are nitpicky, you will little aesthetic flaws like not all rivets being set in exactly the same way, some belt holes might be a bit off. After all, he is not Mr S who make dozens of sleepsacks every year, but these little points does not affect the functionality. I gladly oversee these little flaws for having a leather sleepsack which is exactly how I want it to be. Also, he has made several of them since he made mine so I guess he gathered some experience making them by now.

Detail of the D-rings around the Sleepsack

Naturally, all that leather and metal comes at a weight. In my case, almost 10kg. Even when packed tightly, it is almost a quarter cubic meter. I have taken this sleepsack to events in Berlin but it is not the most handy piece of bondage gear to travel with, especially when you do not travel by car.

As I written, this sleepsack was tailored to my demands and expectations. The original VW sleepsacks did not have D-rings on the sleesack but on the belts which were equipped with locking posts. So before ordering one, my recommendation is to try out some different sleepsacks (if possible) to figure out how your sleepsack needs to look like!

Playing with Leather Sleepsack

If you are a regular reader, you will most likely notice that a few weeks ago, I reviewed a rubber sleepsack. The big question is: Why another, way more expensive one?

Detail of the Tit Flaps

First, there is a fetish aspect. Some people like leather, other like rubber. I like both.

So the major point is that inside a leather sleepsack the feeling of bondage is more intense. While rubber will stretch, leather does not give in. You are confined to the shell of a thick, heavy leather cocoon. Leather is the most common material in bondage because it is strong. You can fight, you can struggle, you can stretch, you can grab and (try to) tear. The leather will not give in. This also impact the tightening process. With the rubber sleepsack I have to be careful when threading the rope through the D-rings and tightening it. On this one, I can tug and pull to really get it tight without having to worry to rip the rivet out of the material.

Detail of the Shoulder D-rings for Suspension Bondage

Because of these properties, the leather sleepsack is for heavier play or subs who like to struggle. With the D-rings around the sleepsack, it can easily be tied down so there is no wiggle room left for the sub. This comes in handy when inducing intense amounts of agony like through electro, CBT or milking. The tit flaps are large enough to expose the nipples to wax. And while wax does not destroy leather, it tarnishes the surface so some level of care is necessary.

For floaty bondage, it depends on your style. As soft as the leather is, it still maintains some level of stiffness. The thickness isolates the bottom from his surroundings. Because of that, the belts around the sleepsack are so wide that when tightening them the sub really feels the force and strength of the top. Add to that the weight of the leather and the feeling of being bound and helpless is more intense than in a rubber sleepsack.

Detail of the Arm Pockets

In a normal playroom setting leather also offers a bit more comfort than rubber. Since the leather is so thick it regulates the temperature quite well as long as the room temperature is at a normal level and the sleepsack does not lay in the open sun. Being a natural material, it also absorbs some level of sweat. This is also the downside of leather. Unlike rubber it is very difficult to clean – especially a large piece of gear as a sleepsack. So if the scene should be long-term, I recommend putting a diaper on the sub. Because leather is so comfortable and the sweating is not really noticed unlike in rubber, hydration and overheating can become a problem. So check in with the sub regularly and maybe open a little gap in the zipper to check his body.

Conclusion: Very well made leather sleepsack with loads of extras and a few beauty flaws.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Made to measure with extras tailored to the sub’s requirements Little imperfections in the manufacturing execution tarnish overall outstanding quality Lederbondage.com Around 1.500€ depending on the extras and shipping
Lavish amount of D-rings for intense
Ordering process more difficult and longer compared to off the rack sleepsack
bondage Suspension capability
Top notch leather and metal trim quality
Exceptional value for money

 

Fetters Leather Chest Binder Restraints

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Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Detail of the Torso Belt’s Closing Mechanism Using a Lock

The main body of this restraint is a 10cm wide belt made out of 3mm thick bridle leather. On one end there is a locking pin (which naturally comes with a lock) and on the other 15 rivet reinforced holes are punched to adjust the circumference between 94cm and 123cm so you can fetter almost any body type – from twink over body builder to stocky bear – with this restraint. For a more comfortable fit even during extended scenes, the bridle leather is lined with soft garment leather.

Onto this body, two sets of restraints are riveted: An upper arm on the side and a wrist restraint in the front. The follow the same design scheme with bridle leather body and garment leather lining. Their closing mechanism is the same as the one on the Fetters Locking Restraints: A 3cm wide belt, closed with a roller buckle and shut with a locking pin. They are attached using only one rivet so they can twist and turn to accommodate different anatomies. Into the buckle of the upper arm restraints there is D-ring integrated. Another attachment point is a D-ring in the front between the wrist restraints which is hold in place by a piece of leather and four rivets.

The Fetters Chester Binder Restraints

Detail of the Garment Leather Lining and the Edge of the Body’s Bridle Leather

As high quality the materials and craftsmanship of the Chester Binder Restraints are – like every toy and piece of gear made in the workshops of Fetters – a little drop of bitterness are the edges of the restraints. The lining is slightly larger than the rigid leather on the outside so when pressed against the body it covers to some extend the hard edge of it. But still, I would have wished for the outer leather to be dyed and burnished or to put a piping around all the edges for the edges to be line with the overall quality feel and craftsmanship of the toy.

Detail of the Central D-Ring

Playing with the Chest Binder Restraints

When I first got these restraints, my testees and I saw them more as a “mobile” restraint: While rendering the torso and its limbs almost completely useless, the sub can still move around. So the restraints are great for pride, street fairs or party setting where he should still be able to walk while enjoying an intense bondage experience. In clubs the D-rings come in handy because with them the sub can be easily fixed to a post or tied in a frame when he needs some timeout. It lies in the nature of the design of this toy that the nipples are not accessible. However they are good for flogging (novice tops) because the leather belt is a good divider between the area that can be hit and the one which should not. The floggee should have some experience already though because maintaining posture by just leaning against the cross and not hands to stabilize oneself is a challenge of its own – and can introduce a hot element of discipline and punishment if failing to.

The Chest Binder Restraints quickly won the favor of one of my testee panel tops who likes the aesthetic of classic fetish attire like leather uniforms or rubber cat suits and thus dislikes the coverage of straitjackets. Unlike straitjackets, the hands are free in these restraints which opens up a whole world of interesting tasks: Holding the ash tray for the top or a tablet in a cocktail party is almost stress bondage. Another possibility is to make the housework more difficult through the extremely limited range of hand and arm movement. If heavier bondage is desired, simply close the wrist restraints slightly below the wrist and add either Padded Fist Mitts or Bondage Mitts which can be connected to a (muzzle’s) collar.

Detail of the Upper Arm Restraint’s Closing Mechanism inlcuding a Roller Buckle, Locking Pin and a D-Ring

During one scene with a pain pig, I discovered the “stationary” potential of the Chest Binder Restraints. It is great tool to effectively fetter the torso and the upper arms in a lay-down bondage setup. Before the Chest Binder Restraints, I had to put the subs into a bondage harness which while effective, took quite some time to adjust and still left the upper arms unbound. With the D-rings on the side (and maybe running a tension strap through the front D-ring), the torso is effectively kept from getting up. A downside is the locking pin pressing into the back of the sub. Adding a small cushion can soften it, so he can stay bound for extended periods of time.

Conclusion: Extravagant, multipurpose restraints with almost perfect build quality.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Almost complete immobilization of the arms while allowing to move around Edges of the restraints are not as well executed as the could be Regulation £148.99
Sub still (somehow) able to serve while bound
Enough D-rings for more complex bondage layouts
Leaves gear visible, most of the body accessible and does not a lot of coverage in hot environments

Leather Suspension Harness

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The Blackjump Leather Suspension Harness

Vendor: Blackjump

Construction

Like with all heavy duty bondage items, the first look should always be on the material and manufacturing quality in order to see if the gear will actually detain a struggling sub. This is even more important with a suspension harness because an equipment failure will not only ruin a scene but can potentially cause injuries!

This Blackjump model is beyond any doubt. All straps are made out of sturdy, 2mm thick and 50mm wide belt leather (except the one across the chest which is 30mm wide). Points with crucial load bearing or extreme kinetic stress either feature double leather layers or four instead of just two rivets. Equally important is the protection of fragile and vulnerable body parts from the stiff leather belts digging in. For this thick and stiff foam under soft leather is used so even under a lot of pressure you do not feel the leather and metal below the padding. The hardware is also supreme: The D-rings are welded and made out of thick steel, the buckles are sturdy roller buckles.

Detail of the Double Lay Leather to extra-reinforce the Suspension D-ring

All these ingredients are mixed together into what appears fairly simple design which in the details shows a lot of thought. The torso part is basically two belts with holes on both ends, riveted to an X with one rivet on the back so the angle between the two belts can adjust easily depending on the sub’s body size. To protect collarbone and the shoulders, there are pads which can be attached to the belts with snaps. Though mine have been lost when I have bought this harness from a friend; I need to reorder them again. On the apex of both belts there is a D-ring from which this harness gets suspended. Just above the belt holes in front there is a horizontal strap riveted with a roller buckle to tighten the harness in front of the chest.

Using four buckles, these straps are connected to the piece de resistance of this suspension harness: The roughly bone-shaped, padded pelvic-protection. Since there are no muscles and rarely a thick layer of fat over the pelvis, this body area is very sensitive to abrasions. Because of this it has to be padded, either through a pad (like Mr S does) or through a padded belt (like Fetters does). Blackjump goes further. He extends the padding over the stomach region onto the lower rib cage to also protect this fragile body part. In order to maintain the flexibility and adjustability of the harness, the padding is not only ergonomically shaped, but middle part which goes over the stomach section is with 60mm only 40% as wide as the 140mm wide padding to the pelvis and rib cage. A little drawback of the heavy duty design is that the rivets which connect the belts with the padding are not covered by leather.

Detail of the Padding Protecting the Pelvis and Rib Cage

The four buckles on the upper end of the padding allow to adjust the harness the bottom’s body size. It is very adjustable; I suspended people from 1,69m to 2,05m and thin twinks to heavier bears with no problem. From my experience with leather as a material and without any guarantee I would say the breaking load of this harness is somewhere between 150kg and 180kg. Below the buckles of the back there is also a D-ring riveted. To my knowledge it is the only fetish suspension who has these D-rings but they are very important when the sub is not flying high (see below). On the bottom there is a belt attached which go around the thigh. To also protect this delicate body area (see below), there a 100mm wide and 350mm long padded “sleigh” running on the strap so regardless of the length adjustment is always cover the back part of the thigh.

At least when my friend bought the harness some 10 years ago, it came with a sturdy suspension bar. On both ends quick links are welded onto the bar, the actually suspension is attached to a triangle ring welded onto the middle. From the quick links 350mm of 6mm wire gauge chain are suspended. The actually harness is suspended using pear clips which the avid reader knows I am not a big fan off. Though since they are never actually opened the sharpness does not really play a role. And at least the ones I have a certified for 230 daN. So I can hardly imagine a strong, heavy muscle bear exceeding the dynamic breaking load of 469kg + safety margin…

Detail of the Back Buckle with D-ring

Playing with the Suspension Harness

For me suspension bondage, especially in a harness and using rope, is the ultimate form of mindfuck bondage: You are free to move around yet unable to escape. To achieve this level of mindfuck, the sub needs to be suspended so high that his toes can’t touch the ground and his hands can’t touch anything. If you do not have a gymnasium for a playroom, this can be difficult. The extreme situation is my playroom where some subs have to crouch to get into the harness with the suspension bar above them. To still get the sub helpless, put ankle restraints on him and connect them to the D-rings on the back. Depending on the degree of helplessness, fetter the hands using suspension restraints to the suspension bar or to the D-ring to which the thigh belt is connected. In the latter position for added stress, upper arm restraints can be connected to the back D-rings. However, I would not recommend to subject to sub to too much pain in this situation because due to the limited upper arm movement  he can quickly pull something.

The design of the straps and belts allow for maximum accessibility for sensation play over TT and CBT to spanking and even flogging. Particularly fun are e-stim scenes with movement triggered units like the Electrastim Flick Duo or Axis. Once the sub starts to work the pain out, self-sustaining system of constant movement is set in motion which keeps the stimulation coming and coming.

Detail of the Suspension Bar and Chains

The feeling of flying can also heighten the sensations of more traditional play like getting fucked or fisted. The free movement of the harness creates a way stronger swinging action than a sling does. While a suspension harness seems like a natural match for a milking machine, I made not the best experience with my Venus 2000. The body’s natural reaction to an intense sensation is flinching, pulling the penis out of the receiver. Just suspending the receiver from the chest strap also proved to instable. I have seen people converting cock sheaths into attachment points for the receiver so this might work.

Detail of the Thigh Padding

As hot and fun suspension bondage is, it is also one of the most dangerous forms of bondage due to the risk of suspension trauma. In short suspension bondage is the blood gathering in the legs when being suspended for an extended period of time which will cause a circulatory collapse. Symptoms are sweating, breathlessness, dizziness, feeling sick, dropping blood pressure or numbness. If any of these symptoms occur, get the sub out of the harness but NEVER LAY HIM DOWN! During suspension trauma the heart tries to pump the blood up with ever increasing force. Laying him down would cause the blood to shoot into the torso and brain, basically killing him! This is called rescue death. To prevent this, for the first 20 to 30 minutes, keep the torso in an upright position. A suspension trauma is not a “miner circulation crash” but a serious medical emergency and requires professional help! Drugs which increase blood pressure and/ or open up the blood vessels like poppers can increase the likelihood of suspension trauma. While the thick padding on critical areas makes the appearing of a suspension trauma unlikely, a suspended sub (like all bound subs) should never be left alone and a suspension scene should never go over extended periods of time. Furthermore it is important to talk with the sub about the potential symptoms before a scene so he can draw the top’s attention to problems early enough and does not dismiss them out of mislead will to be obedient.

Speaking of safely suspending someone: If you want to really lift the sub after fettering him in the harness, I highly recommend getting a professional winch for liability reasons. Considering dynamic loads, you should get one with over 1,000kg carrying load!

Conclusion: Bes fetish suspension harness I have come across yet.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Great craftsmanship out of high quality materials Takes forever to break in Blackjump Ca. 250€
Thick and ample padding for comfortable and safe scenes over extended periods of time
D-rings in all relevant places
Comes with suspension hardware

 

Leather Straitjacket

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The HML Fetish Leather Straitjacket

Vendor: HML Fetish

After the past weeks were all about anal toys, the Sundays will follow a different tune: It will be all about heavy bondage. So expect reviews of sleepsacks, hoods, extravagant restraints – and straitjackets.

One of the most common questions in the realm of heavy bondage is: Where do I get a good, reasonably priced straitjacket? Despite most heavy bondage items like sleepsacks or straitjackets are once-in-a-life-time purchases, not everybody can afford the mid-four-digit price tags of Mr S or Fetters straitjackets. On the other end of the price spectrum there are cheaply made models from Asia which cardboard-like leather from questionable sources and unreliable metal fixtures. So I did some research for something in between and found this model from HML Fetish in Bremen.

Detail of the Straps for Tightening the Straitjacket at the Back

Construction

Since a straitjacket is most likely be worn on the bare skin in order not to overheat, let’s talk about the material first. HML Fetish uses high quality, European sourced cow hides so you do not have to worry about Chrome-6. The leather of the jacket itself is 1mm thick which is a good compromise between the feeling of being clad in leather, the leather fitting well around the body and temperature control .The inside of the jacket is not lined but since all metal fixtures are made out of stainless steel, neither allergies nor rust should be a too big problem. Knowing HML Fetish I am pretty sure they can line the jacket with leather if you ask them. Despite the price point just below 1.000€, you get premium features like thickly quilted leather on the elbows which is a nice touch and keeps the elbows protects when the sub is made to crawl on the ground while being fettered. Another great feature are the nipple flats which measure roughly 10x10cm. Six sturdy snaps are keeping them in place so even a very actively struggling sub cannot get them off.

Detail of the Quilting over the Elbows

Like most straitjackets, the HML Fetish one is closed by a zipper. Then going down from head to waist there is a belt around the collar, one going around the chest and upper arm and one around the waist. These straps are led but leather straps riveted onto the body. On the back, two additional belts going over the zipper to tighten the jacket properly around the body. Like all straitjackets the arms are crossed over the chest with a belt strap on the end of the left arm and a buckle strap on the right arm. Once they are closed together behind the back, there is a strap in the middle of the front to secured them tightly and limit any potential wiggle room. Finally, there are two straps which run through the crotch to prevent the more than unlikely possibility that with crossed arms the jacket could be pulled off.

All straps are made out of 1.5mm thick cow hides which is doubled, glued and sowed all around which gives the straps a nice quality feel and touch of craftsmanship. The belt holes are reinforced with stainless steel rivets so the buckle’s pin does not damage the leather. The strap around the waist, the collar and the once securing the arm in front of the torso are about 40mm wide, all other straps are 25mm.

Detail of the D-Ring at the Bottom of the Body

There is only one D-ring on the entire straitjacket: In the middle of the torso, just above the waist seam. Again, when ordering this straitjacket, get in touch with the guys at HML Fetish and they will place D-rings where you desire and need them. My recommendation (from the way I play) would be at least three at the collar (center, left and right) and replacing the leather leading loops on each side of the waist and just below the shoulder so you can tie the sub between two posts.

The straitjacket comes in sizes from S to XXL and are pretty adjustable. So when you are a top who entertains different body types of subs, I recommend getting a largerish size; you can always tighten it afterwards.

Detail of the Tit Flaps

Playing with the Straitjacket

Being put into a straitjacket is probably one of the most intense bondage experience once can have. Unlike a sleepsack where the sub is still somewhat in control of the putting on process (like slipping the arms into the arm pocket, adjusting the leg divider, etc.), once he has put the body one, the top is in control. He can move around the arms and with a leash even the sub at his will. While in a sleepsack the sub will most likely remain in the area where he lay down, in a straitjacket the sub is mobile and can be forced quiet easily into environments and situation the top wants him to be – regardless of how much the sub dislikes it. This mental aspect is one of the greatest appeals of a straitjacket.

Detail of the Jockstrap-Style Crotch Staps

An important element of it, is the fettering process; the straps being tightened around the subs, gradually limiting the control over his arms and torso. While the HML Fetish straitjacket technically does this well, it falls a bit short on the sensation side. Since most straps are only 25mm wide, the tightening sensation is not as strongly felt as on most other straitjackets. I would describe it this way: Compare the impact sensation of a wood paddle and a thuddy flogger. The pain intensity might be the same, but the flogger with the sheer amount of kinetic energy will shatter and thrust you against the St. Andrews cross while the paddle “just” hurts. Quantity wise the effect it the same, but the quality wise there is a lot more going on with the flogger or in regards of straitjackets with wider straps. I have talked to the guys at HML Fetish about this and they the thinner belts are an aesthetic decision, leaving more of the body visible. But most of my testees said that the fettering process was disappointingly unspectacular so I guess you again have to ask during the ordering process if you can get wider straps if you prefer them.

Detail of the Strap Fettering the Arms in Front of the Torso

Again compared to a sleepsack a straintjacket is the perfect combination of active play and intense bondage sensation. And the HML Fetish one excels at that. With the relatively large tit flaps, you cannot only attach clamps easily but even do wax play when you are a bit cautious (and the sub is sound tightly enough so he cannot move). Due to the not too thick leather, lying on a spanking bench is comfortable and the crotch straps make a nice jockstrap-like framing of the cheeks for impact play. This straitjacket’s collar is even soft enough to just be loosely closed if you are putting a hood or muzzle on which already has a collar.

Conclusion: High quality made straitjacket with too few D-rings and a little bit too thin straps.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Great craftsmanship out of high quality materials Straps are too thin HML Fetish 995€
Great value for money Too few D-rings
Large tit flaps
Quilted elbows as standard

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer II –Riding Crop & DD Strap

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Nikolaus Day 2018

The German Christmas tradition knows many rituals. One of the is Nikolaus Day on December 6th. On December 5th you place a well polished boot – or nowadays well cleaned sneaker – in front of your door, hoping that Sankt Nikolaus will come by at night and fill the footwear with candy and small toys when you have been good. But in the German folk lore he does not travel alone. He is accompanied by Knecht Ruprecht, a sinister and violent helper of Nikolaus who will leave a bushel of birch twigs in your shoe when you have been a naughty boy, warning you he will return to spank the naughtiness out of you.

The London Tanners Riding Crop

Looking at my Shox ID, apparently I have been a good boy. But this doesn’t stop me to put some toys on my wish list that would make Knecht Ruprecht’s duties easier. A couple of weeks ago I reviewed the London Tanners Mill Strap which I like a lot for being well made. Having a growing urge to spank a greedy, noisy bottom on a regular basis, I wondered what is missing in my collection – and my readers‘ and thus worth getting my hands on to review.

First, a traditional riding crop. Already in the iconic drawings of Tom of Finland, many BLUF men had a riding crop sticking in their boots’ shaft. After finally having gotten proper engineer boots as the last piece of a complete leather uniform, this accessory would both be hot and functional. I would choose the London Tanners’ riding crop over equestrian riding crops from sporting good stores because the quality probably higher but with a length of 67cm it is considerably longer than commercial ones which would just look absurdly small on me.

The London Tanners DD Strap

Second their DD Strap. I have many spanking implements. More than I can actually store easily accessible in my playroom. But despite the vast collection, I am actually lacking a basic piece: A leather paddle large enough to hit both cheeks. I have bullet-proof and aluminum paddles which do this job but not a leather one. The sound and feeling of high quality leather compressing warm, soft skin is simply something completely different and arousing! So the DD Strap is something that would make my dick hard and my spankees scream.

As much as I love the rich tobacco color of the Mill Strap, both toys being classics, I would want to add them in classic BDSM black to my collection. While the Riding Crop at 79€ and the DD Strap at 109€ are on the higher end of the impact toy price range, if their craftsman’s quality and material is like the Mill Strap, they are worth their money! They are something to bequest.

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer I – Vector Heavy Padded Bondage Sleeves

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer I – Vector Heavy Padded Bondage Sleeves

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From 2012 to 2015 on each  Advent Sunday I presented you some (unusual) kinky Christmas gifts. The last two years due to being too busy with work I let this tradition slip but this year I decided to pick it up again. I did some research – and found only the same quirky stuff I recommended the last years. Since one of the most often asked reader questions is “Is there anything a guy with your toy collection still wants?”, I decided to write down what would be on my kinky wish list.

Detail of the Arms Tied Down on the Sides

The first item on the list are the Mr S Vector Heavy Padded Bondage Sleeves. They are basically the arms of their amazing Vector Ultra-Padded Straitjacket with a harness instead of body. I know, for most bondage aficionados, stricter, tighter, more layered bondage is appealing but I am more a practical kind of guy with a bit of claustrophobia. So these sleeves are perfect for me. They appear to be as effective in immobilizing a sub as a straitjacket does. You can even tie the arms parallel to the body. But instead of enclosing the torso in a layer of leather, there are just harness straps leave all the important parts like the nipples, ass and junk fully exposed. A skilled flogging top might be able to hit the shoulder blades between the harness’ leather belts. Each roller buckle strap on the sleeves to runs through a D-ring, providing enough anchorage points to fetter the sub down tightly for example to keep him from moving too much when being exposed to wax play. Otherwise the hot wax might tarnish the leather.

Detail of the Harness and the Straps holdign the Bondage Sleeves in Place

Besides the play aspect, I like the aesthetic component of it. When being bound in a straitjacket, the entire torso is covered, hiding the leather uniform, rubber gear of body writing the sub is proudly displaying or forced to wear. This limited coverage is also great for outdoor play in the summer or street fairs like Dore Alley, Folsom (Europe) or pride marches when a straitjacket over gear might cause the sub to overheat.

Being made out of a lot of leather and needing a lot of manual work to create the beautiful vector-quilted padding, the Vector Heavy Padded Bondage Sleeves are on the more expensive side of gear purchases at $879.95 but I am certain I will get my money’s worth once I add this piece of bondage gear to my collection.

Mill Strap

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The London Tanners Mill Strap

Vendor: The London Tanners

Construction

As the name of the impact toy already implies, the basis is one long 4cm wide strap of 5.5mm thick leather. The overall length of the toy is 36cm of which the lower 13.5cm are folded together by another, narrower strap and two sleeve nuts forming the grip. The narrower strap does not wrap tightly around the broader one but forms a little loop which houses a d-ring for easy storage. The toy features some nice details like the saddlers’ crease both on the broad and the narrow strap and the embossed hallmark on one side of the broad strap. Regarding the color, you can choose between a classic black or tobacco brown which I bought.

Detail of the embossed Company’s Hallmark

While this sounds pretty standard for an impact implement, what sets the Mill Strap apart from other is the leather and finishing quality. The leather quality caused some discussion in my testee panel. It is top notch pure vegetable tanned British hide. This means there is no risk of allergy due to Chrome-6 for example which is important when doing heavy impact play since the bottom’s sweat can wash out the Chrome-6 and the tormented skin can easily reabsorb it. However, since the oak tanning process is very gentle, the hide does not get softened. So now after almost three months of regularly using it, my Mill Strap is not even close to being broken in. What helps to facilitate the breaking in process is kneading the loop. This does not make the Mill Strap a bad toy, just for a relatively long time, it performs more like a paddle than a strap. Furthermore, the oak used for tanning the leather gives it a distinct, strong smell which – in my case luckily – will fade away over time while some testees liked it very much.

Detail of the Strap forming the Grip and housing the D-Ring for easier Storage

The finish quality is one of the best out there. The surface is oiled and waxed for a super-smooth finish and the edges are burnished for no unintentional abrasions.

Playing with the Mill Strap

The Mill Strap delivers what the name promises: An easy to control, stingy impact toy. Since the strap is flexible, it can even be used for warm-up when carefully and lightly tapping the bottom’s cheeks. While the strap is long enough to hit both cheeks, due to the thick leather’s weight this strap is rather loop-heavy. Because of that I would recommend targeting single cheeks.

As written above it takes some time to break the strap to get the slapping effect of this kind of toys. Once you have reached that point, the sensation of thick upper half back lashing turns the medium sting into an intense one. Also, the cracking sound of slappers and straps then appears, adding another sensual dimension to the impact play.

Detail of the Strap’s Loop with the Saddlers‘ Crease on both Sides

To my surprise, the Mill Strap does not color as much as I did expect of such toy. It will redden the skin quickly but not as much as a paddle and the red will quickly fade. Also none of my testees managed to produce bruises with it. While naturally this depends on the sub’s body, the Mill Strap seems to be a good implement for sessions which should not leave lasting marks.

If you prefer a little bit of thud, simply turn the toy around and hit the sub with the grip. The stiffness of four layers of tightly folded leather will still sting but the sheer weight will add some thud, giving the Mill Strap even some bruiser potential. Especially when the strap is broken in, flinging the grip forward will develop movement momentum, allowing to hit the sub with little force. Especially when doing this more or less uncontrolled hitting, the d-ring hitting the bottok might become a problem – or an appreciated backlash.

Conclusion: Premium stingy impact implement which take a long time to get broken in.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
High quality materials meets superior build quality and attention to detail Takes long time to break in The London Tanners 79€
Intense pain with little coloring Intense smell for the first weeks
Some thuddy potential when hitting with grip
D-ring for easy storage

Leather Handcuffs

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The Mr S Leather Handcuffs

Vendor: Mr S

Construction

The Leather Handcuffs are made out of two slim cuffs made out of belt leather. The belt leather strap is 25mm wide and lined with soft leather. 50mm behind the flap which houses the lockable roller-buckle the strap widens to 40m. This section is 120mm long and is padded with soft foam. Into the last, also 120mm long section of the strap holes have been punched for the buckle. The spacing allows the cuffs to adjust for almost every size of wrist; starting at a tiny diameter of 50mm up to a massive 100mm wrist diameter.

Detail of the Padding

The two cuffs are connected cross-over by two strong rivets. This way the cuffs don’t twist. Between them is an 80mm long and 25mm wide strap of leather which has welded D-rings on both ends. The Handcuffs come with a pair of keyed alike Master Locks.

Playing with the Leather Handcuffs

Handcuffs are one of the most common pervertable and thus bondage means in BDSM scene. Widely available they come loaded with fetish fantasies and are easy to use. But long-term wearing of tightly fitted handcuffs can lead to serious nerve damage and wrist injuries. So as hot as – carefully! – snapping handcuffs around the bottom’s wrist, they should not be worn during an entire scene. Through the wide strap and the padding these cuffs can be worn indefinitely long.

Detail of one of the D-rings

Unlike professional handcuffs these leather ones have to anchor points to incorporate them into a more elaborate bondage layout. My testees most often used them for rope bondage setups because the rope ran very smoothly through the D-rings. In combination with leather or rubber gear and toys I used them for impromptu shoulder-to-wrist restraints by locking them to a harness or connect them to a ball stretcher with a D-ring for an interesting feedback loop. The wide strap and padding provides some support for the wrist. So the handcuffs can be used for stress bondage like a hogtie. Unlike in a traditional hogtie the wrist are not in line with arms but oblique and over-cross. This adds extra stress to the arms and shoulders once the sub starts to move his legs. The leather handcuffs can even be used for limited suspension like keeping the sub on the tip of his toes, though they are not made for real suspension bondage.

Detail of the Locking Buckle

The large holes for the lockable buckle require rather large spacing between the holes. This makes a secure adjustment sometimes difficult when the wrist is just too large for the tighter hole and the next hole makes the fettering considerably looser. A locking pin with the consequently tighter spacing would have been better and more secure. To tell the truth this only happened once during the 6 month testing period. The cross-over design makes it really difficult to find a point of application to wiggle out of them.

Conclusion: Simple yet versatile handcuff like restraints.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable to wear over extended periods of time Spacing sometimes too large for secure fettering Mr S $79.95
Locking
Two D-rings

 

Fetters Padded Fist Mitts

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The Fetters Padded Fist Mitts

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The basic design of this toy are mono mittens which enclose the entire hand. They are conically shaped for a tight fit around the cuff. The mitts are padded all around with a medium firm padding.  The overall length of the body is 21cm and comes in two sizes: Small/Medium for a clenched fists circumference between 22.5cm and 27.5cm and Medium/Large a circumference between 28cm and 32cm. Regardless of the size, the cut of the mitts is rather restrictive. It is not possible to enter them with a clenched fist and even after they are broken in, putting them on takes a bit of strength – which bothered none of the bondage bottoms in the test panel.

Detail of the Locking Post to close the Mitts and one of the D-rings

The mitts are closed with a thick belt leather strap. It is attached to the body with two rivets. Between them there is a welded D-ring. There is another one at the end of the strap. What makes the strap special is the way it is closed: Unlike most other restraints, the mitts are not closed with a (roller) buckle but just with a locking pin. The holes in the strap have a 10mm spacing. The tight spacing in combination with the thick padding allows for the mitts to be fettered tight enough to make them inescapable.

I guess at this point I do not have to say much about the material quality anymore. Like every other piece of Fetters bondage gear the mitts are made out of highest quality leather which just smells awesome!

Detail of the Second D-ring on top of the Body

Playing with the Padded Fist Mitts

Mitts are the toy category to go to when the sub’s hand should be rendered useless. And these ones excel in it. The clenched fists in combination with the thick padding makes grabbing objects almost impossible. Grabbing larger, lighters ones like a gym bottle for hydration is still possible but requires a lot of attention and some practice. But most other tasks like operating a door handle or manipulating the toys and bondage gear put onto him, won’t be possible. This includes operation his dick. Even with spit or lube, only one of the testee subs could create enough friction through the padding to jerk off.

Detail of the Padding and the Expension Fold for easier Entry

Naturally the two D-rings are great for creative bondage layouts. The number of D-rings is especially useful when incorporating the mitts in a rope bondage setup. Since the mitts can only be closed using a lock, the sub soon will associate the mitts with inescapability, adding an important mental element to the play.

Another classic layout is for pet play: Simply attach connect the mitts with a collar and the sub is forced to walk on his elbows which is very stressful yet dehumanizing (for this layout elbow pads are a must!). Less intense is walking on all fours using his fists. In this situation the padding is thick enough for most kind of pet play, especially indoor and outdoor on tarmac and paved streets. For cobble stone roads and gravel paths the padding is a bit thin.

Conclusion: Well made, heavy duty bondage mitts
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Thigh and tapered fit for intense and secure bondage experience Padding could be thicker and firmer Regulation £119
Closed through locking posts
Two D-rings