Schlagwort-Archiv: Fetters

Best for Self Play – Bondage

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The Mr S Asylum Muzzle

I have long thought about if I should really write this piece. Self bondage is a delicate topic. The chances of something going wrong are higher than when you play with someone else – especially when you try to achieve the restriction level that kick most bondage subs. And if something goes wrong, there is no one to help you escape the predicament. I am well aware of devices like ice locks and the time locks that hit the market the past few years. But they are not failsafe and if you get a cramp or some other serious incident happens that requires your immediate attention, you are stuck in them until the time is off. So in this review I will focus on toys that will give you some sense of helplessness but are still easily enough to take off when necessary.

First some pieces of advice for when restricting your movement on your own:

  • I highly recommend sitting or laying down to keep your form accidently tripping and injuring yourself.
  • Get a virtual session sitter. Inform a friend what you are about to do and agree upon a time to check in with them once you are down. Set yourself an alarm clock which leaves you ample time to strip yourself out of the bondage on your own and call them back. If you do not call them in due time, they should inform the authorities about the potential predicament you are in.

The Fetters Chester Binder Restraints

The first I am going to recommend when playing on your own are the Fetters Leather Chest Binders Restraints. With the lockable chest bench has the important momentum of hearing and feeling the lock click, binding the restraints irremovable to your body once locked. For the sake of security and frankly practicality only wrap the cuffs around your biceps which will give you already restrict your arm movement properly. Also, you have something to look forward once the lockdown is over and your top will restrain your wrists to your chest making you even more helpless. Alternatively, take a look at the Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set and just use the thigh restraints. They have the attached ankle restraints to bind these two body parts together, making it impossible for you to move your legs. Theoretically, both pieces of bondage gear could be combined on your own. However, the level of bondage is so intense that the time to take all restraints of in an emergency situation is too long so I strongly advise against combining the two together.

The Regulation Padded Posture Collar

However, there are two good toys matching these pieces of bondage gear. First is the Padded Posture Collar from Regulation. It forces you to keep your head facing straight forward. Since most of our head’s movements are intuitive, a sense of being severely limited will soon creep into your mind. Second is the Mr S Ultra Blindfold. It is the best, most effective and most comfortable blindfold on the planet. Period! It blocks out all the light with being barely noticeable, forcing your to look inside yourself and feel every little element of restriction and your predicament. I consider this specific toy essential to every toy collection because it is SO good. So even if you are not planning on playing with yourself, don’t have this blindfold and want to do some therapy shopping, buy this piece of gear!

The Mr S Locking Front Buckle Gag

For all the reasons above, head gear naturally is great for self bondage. However, I would not recommend combining head gear (except for the Bishop Head Harness) with bondage that restricts your arms like the Chester Binders. The chances of these pieces constricting your breather are very low but still there! So you might need to take them off more immediately than you can undo your arm and hand restraints.

The Mr S Bishop Head Harness with Eye and Mouth Cover Attached

The first piece of head gear is actually my favorite gag: The Mr S Front Buckle Gag. The lavish padding of the front feels like soft leather feels like a gloved hand covering your mouth, making all glove over mouth fetishist like me drool even more – as if the pecker inside your mouth would not be enough. You can this version with a locking buckle to intensify the feeling of being bound even more.

Mr s Leather Bad Hood

If you are a fan of feeling many straps around you or a piece of gear slowly encapsulating you more and more, the Mr S Bishop Head Harness is the head gear to go to. The lavishly used soft leather caresses your skin while the many straps are wrapped around your head. Once fettered you can add a blindfold or a gag for furthermore increase the bondage. To be honest, it takes a bit of practice to figure out in which order and how strong to tighten each strap. But once you have gotten the hang of it, it is an intense sensual experience (Big thanks to ReddyWhp who got me hooked on this experience almost exactly 7 years ago!). A similar experience regarding the soft leather wrapping around your face and straps being tightened gives you the Mr S Asylum Muzzle. Bonus feature: It has a zipper on the back so once adjusted you can put it on fairly easily and due to the lack of an attached collar, you can add the Posture Collar. The easiest to put on piece of head gear is the Mr S Leather Bag Hood. Simply pull it over the head, lightly tighten the leather cord around your neck and enjoy the isolation. The rich smell of soft, high quality leather is intoxicating. The two small nose holes should allow for enough air to flow to you if you breathe slowly and steadily.

As always: NEVER do breath play alone! Please be safe in all forms of self play and stick the two pieces of advice I gave at the beginning of the article.

This is the final piece of this series in which I have also talked about Anal Toys, E-Stim and CBT, Edging & Milking. I hope you enjoyed the articles and I would look forward to seeing you again some time around Easter when the regular review will start again. Until then: Stay healthy, stay kinky, stay isolated!

Fetters Leather Chest Binder Restraints

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Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Detail of the Torso Belt’s Closing Mechanism Using a Lock

The main body of this restraint is a 10cm wide belt made out of 3mm thick bridle leather. On one end there is a locking pin (which naturally comes with a lock) and on the other 15 rivet reinforced holes are punched to adjust the circumference between 94cm and 123cm so you can fetter almost any body type – from twink over body builder to stocky bear – with this restraint. For a more comfortable fit even during extended scenes, the bridle leather is lined with soft garment leather.

Onto this body, two sets of restraints are riveted: An upper arm on the side and a wrist restraint in the front. The follow the same design scheme with bridle leather body and garment leather lining. Their closing mechanism is the same as the one on the Fetters Locking Restraints: A 3cm wide belt, closed with a roller buckle and shut with a locking pin. They are attached using only one rivet so they can twist and turn to accommodate different anatomies. Into the buckle of the upper arm restraints there is D-ring integrated. Another attachment point is a D-ring in the front between the wrist restraints which is hold in place by a piece of leather and four rivets.

The Fetters Chester Binder Restraints

Detail of the Garment Leather Lining and the Edge of the Body’s Bridle Leather

As high quality the materials and craftsmanship of the Chester Binder Restraints are – like every toy and piece of gear made in the workshops of Fetters – a little drop of bitterness are the edges of the restraints. The lining is slightly larger than the rigid leather on the outside so when pressed against the body it covers to some extend the hard edge of it. But still, I would have wished for the outer leather to be dyed and burnished or to put a piping around all the edges for the edges to be line with the overall quality feel and craftsmanship of the toy.

Detail of the Central D-Ring

Playing with the Chest Binder Restraints

When I first got these restraints, my testees and I saw them more as a “mobile” restraint: While rendering the torso and its limbs almost completely useless, the sub can still move around. So the restraints are great for pride, street fairs or party setting where he should still be able to walk while enjoying an intense bondage experience. In clubs the D-rings come in handy because with them the sub can be easily fixed to a post or tied in a frame when he needs some timeout. It lies in the nature of the design of this toy that the nipples are not accessible. However they are good for flogging (novice tops) because the leather belt is a good divider between the area that can be hit and the one which should not. The floggee should have some experience already though because maintaining posture by just leaning against the cross and not hands to stabilize oneself is a challenge of its own – and can introduce a hot element of discipline and punishment if failing to.

The Chest Binder Restraints quickly won the favor of one of my testee panel tops who likes the aesthetic of classic fetish attire like leather uniforms or rubber cat suits and thus dislikes the coverage of straitjackets. Unlike straitjackets, the hands are free in these restraints which opens up a whole world of interesting tasks: Holding the ash tray for the top or a tablet in a cocktail party is almost stress bondage. Another possibility is to make the housework more difficult through the extremely limited range of hand and arm movement. If heavier bondage is desired, simply close the wrist restraints slightly below the wrist and add either Padded Fist Mitts or Bondage Mitts which can be connected to a (muzzle’s) collar.

Detail of the Upper Arm Restraint’s Closing Mechanism inlcuding a Roller Buckle, Locking Pin and a D-Ring

During one scene with a pain pig, I discovered the “stationary” potential of the Chest Binder Restraints. It is great tool to effectively fetter the torso and the upper arms in a lay-down bondage setup. Before the Chest Binder Restraints, I had to put the subs into a bondage harness which while effective, took quite some time to adjust and still left the upper arms unbound. With the D-rings on the side (and maybe running a tension strap through the front D-ring), the torso is effectively kept from getting up. A downside is the locking pin pressing into the back of the sub. Adding a small cushion can soften it, so he can stay bound for extended periods of time.

Conclusion: Extravagant, multipurpose restraints with almost perfect build quality.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Almost complete immobilization of the arms while allowing to move around Edges of the restraints are not as well executed as the could be Regulation £148.99
Sub still (somehow) able to serve while bound
Enough D-rings for more complex bondage layouts
Leaves gear visible, most of the body accessible and does not a lot of coverage in hot environments

Fetters Padded Fist Mitts

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The Fetters Padded Fist Mitts

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The basic design of this toy are mono mittens which enclose the entire hand. They are conically shaped for a tight fit around the cuff. The mitts are padded all around with a medium firm padding.  The overall length of the body is 21cm and comes in two sizes: Small/Medium for a clenched fists circumference between 22.5cm and 27.5cm and Medium/Large a circumference between 28cm and 32cm. Regardless of the size, the cut of the mitts is rather restrictive. It is not possible to enter them with a clenched fist and even after they are broken in, putting them on takes a bit of strength – which bothered none of the bondage bottoms in the test panel.

Detail of the Locking Post to close the Mitts and one of the D-rings

The mitts are closed with a thick belt leather strap. It is attached to the body with two rivets. Between them there is a welded D-ring. There is another one at the end of the strap. What makes the strap special is the way it is closed: Unlike most other restraints, the mitts are not closed with a (roller) buckle but just with a locking pin. The holes in the strap have a 10mm spacing. The tight spacing in combination with the thick padding allows for the mitts to be fettered tight enough to make them inescapable.

I guess at this point I do not have to say much about the material quality anymore. Like every other piece of Fetters bondage gear the mitts are made out of highest quality leather which just smells awesome!

Detail of the Second D-ring on top of the Body

Playing with the Padded Fist Mitts

Mitts are the toy category to go to when the sub’s hand should be rendered useless. And these ones excel in it. The clenched fists in combination with the thick padding makes grabbing objects almost impossible. Grabbing larger, lighters ones like a gym bottle for hydration is still possible but requires a lot of attention and some practice. But most other tasks like operating a door handle or manipulating the toys and bondage gear put onto him, won’t be possible. This includes operation his dick. Even with spit or lube, only one of the testee subs could create enough friction through the padding to jerk off.

Detail of the Padding and the Expension Fold for easier Entry

Naturally the two D-rings are great for creative bondage layouts. The number of D-rings is especially useful when incorporating the mitts in a rope bondage setup. Since the mitts can only be closed using a lock, the sub soon will associate the mitts with inescapability, adding an important mental element to the play.

Another classic layout is for pet play: Simply attach connect the mitts with a collar and the sub is forced to walk on his elbows which is very stressful yet dehumanizing (for this layout elbow pads are a must!). Less intense is walking on all fours using his fists. In this situation the padding is thick enough for most kind of pet play, especially indoor and outdoor on tarmac and paved streets. For cobble stone roads and gravel paths the padding is a bit thin.

Conclusion: Well made, heavy duty bondage mitts
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Thigh and tapered fit for intense and secure bondage experience Padding could be thicker and firmer Regulation £119
Closed through locking posts
Two D-rings

 

Fetters Ball Gag

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The Fetters Ball Gag

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The ball is made out of a hard silicone and has a diameter of 48mm. It is connected to the leather straps through two solid tubes which have a diameter of 13mm and a length of 23mm. They end in two rectangular pieces which are riveted onto the leather straps. They are made out of high-quality bridle leather and have burnished and dyed edges. Through a roller buckle the length can be adjusted between 45cm and 60cm.

Detail of the roller buckle

Playing with the Fetters Ball Gag

Through the reviewing process of gags I found two types of gag users which I like to call bounds and biters. The bounds enjoy the feeling of something solid in their mouth. They want the feeling of their mouth being in bondage and thus a too soft material isn’t doing the trick. Biters on the other hand have a more practical approach: They enjoy the functional value of a gag (like silencing or drooling) but when they want to sink their teeth into something that gives in. This gag is definitely for the bounds, keeping the mouth open.

Detail of the tubes responsible for comfortable extended wearing

Through its size the ball encourages a lot of drooling. Since the rather thin, small tubes sit in the corners of the mouth rather than a leather strap like on other ball gags, this gag is very comfortable to wear for extended periods of time. The diameter is on the larger end of the ball gag spectrum so especially for people with a smaller mouth having the ball gag put into their mouth is a bit of “stress” bondage. The strap is unusually long for a gag so it fits even subs with a large head or with a thick, open mouth hood fettered onto the head.

Since the ball is made out of silicone it is easy to clean and disinfect which is necessary between scenes because it will be exposed to large amounts of saliva. After play simply wipe the ball dry and spray it with your favorite sanitizer. Don’t forget to wash the ball afterwards to clean off sanitizer residue; it is something you do not want in your sub’s mouth.

Conclusion: Comfortable ball gag for heavy drool scenes
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable to wear for long periods of time Only one size Regulation £34.99
Long strap allows the gag to be put even over very thick hoods
Easy to clean

 

ToyTortures Top 10 Toys: Fetters Handlock

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Front of the Fetters Handlock

As I have already written in this series I like toys which are innovative, designed well and stimulate creativity and the play instinct. The Fetters Handlock scores on all three accounts.

Fettering both hands together like a ridged handcuff does seems to be a natural toy design. The more it is surprising that nobody else but Fetters thought about it. Being made by the iconic British manufacturer it is well made like all their toys (but the little bit of foam which can be seen at the edge of the holes punched for the straps), crafted out if soft, high quality leather which just smells great. With its thick padding the Handlock can be worn in long scenes. So when you put a padlock through the locking posts you can be certain they are going to stay on for a long time. I generally like locking posts because they add a big psychological element of inescapability. What I like even more than locking posts are D-rings. The more the better because each one is an anchor point for bondage.

Detail of the Locking Post and the D-Ring next to the Roller Buckles

The Handlock has five of them so the bondage possibilities are almost endless. I have used the restraints for a hogtie (they also fit around the ankles), in combination with a (bulldog) harness as a shoulder to wrist restraint, for restraining the hands above the head, connecting it to a parachute or a ballstretcher as a wrist to ball restraint and incorporating it into rope bondage. Just to name a few.

The Fetters Handlock costs £109.95 at Regulation London. To learn all about it, read my in-depth review.

Episode 1: Mr S Bishop Head Harness

Episode 2: ErosTek ET232

Episode 3: E-Stim System Electrodes

Episode 4: DeTails Flogger Set

Episode 6: Sheets of San Francisco

Episode 7: Oxballs Ball Stretcher

Episode 8: Doxy Die Cast

Episode 9: Mr S Ultra Blindfold

Episode 10: HML Fetish Bondage Harness

Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

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Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

The Heavy Leather Hogtie Set consists of a pair of modified Fetters Padded Leather Thigh Restraint, a pair of Padded Locking Wrist Cuffs and an Elbow Strap. All pieces are made out of high quality leather, thick soft padding and stainless steel trim. The set comes without pad locks. If you want to lock the restrains the shackle diameter of the pad lock should not be larger than 3mm.

The core of this set is a modified version of the Fetters Padded Leather Thigh Restraints. As all restraints from their padded & lockable range are basically made the same way: An 8cm wide cushion of thick padding covered with soft leather is sewn onto a wide strap of bridle leather. Onto this a belt with a roller buckle and a locking post is riveted. Usually each restraint is equipped with two welded D-rings.

The lowest circumference the thigh restraint can be adjusted to is 42cm; the largest is 71.5cm with a padding gap of 11.5cm; largest circumference with padding all around the thigh is 54cm and the largest circumference and still being able to lock is 67cm with a padding gap of 7cm. Next to the locking post there is a welded D-ring. 15cm away from the D-ring a Padded Locking Ankle Cuff (which I reviewed here) is riveted with its two D-rings being perpendicular to the rivet. Since only one rivet is used the cuff can turn to allow for different bondage positions. Another difference to their standard Padded Thigh restraint is that they have replaced the second D-ring with a stainless steel loop which has a width of 38mm and a height of 8mm. Through this loop the belt of the Padded Locking Wrist cuffs (which I reviewed here) can be threaded to attach the wrist restraint to the thigh one.

Detail of the Wrist Restraint attached to Thigh Restraint

For an even stronger bondage experience an elbow strap comes with the set. The basis of it is a 13.5cm long and 8cm wide octagonal piece of two bridle leather layers which are sewn together. In the middle there are two roller buckles with a locking post riveted onto the body.  In front of each buckle a slot is punched through which a leather belt with unburnished sides is threaded. This belt is 118cm long and 3cm wide. It features 7 holes on one side and 29 holes on the other side which allows for fine adjustment.

Playing with the Hogtie Set

To put these restraints on it is best when the sub lies face down so the top can easily move the limbs to put them into the corresponding cuffs. Each buckle is far away enough from the wrist restraints to prevent the sub from opening the roller buckles. If you want to be extra sure each restraint is lockable which adds a lot of mental bondage sensation. Once fettered you can choose between four different bondage positions: The traditional lying face down, lying face up, kneeling or sitting on the ass. Since sitting up requires a lot of muscle strength this position is a bit of stress bondage. Lying face up is equally stress bondage but great for CBT or an extreme form of gut punching – even with low intensity punches. The thigh restraints quickly became popular with a top friend of mine in kneeling position. He used them in combination with the Handlock (which I reviewed here) to restrain the hands above the head with the thigh-ankle-combination effectively preventing the sub from standing up.

Minimum and Maximum Diameter of the Thigh Restraint

The most traditional position is obviously lying with the face down. In this bondage layout mouth and ass are still accessible but (if the top is strong ort the sub light) you can still move the sub around. Besides face fucking most testees used the hogtie for impact play. With the ass exposed (and if you are not fettering gymnasts the feet unable to cover the ass) and the restraints covering the sensitive area of the upper thigh this layout is great for spanking. Especially if you want to administer bastinado I recommend locking both ankle restraints together using a small shackle. This will effectively limit the movement even more. When you want to create a stress bondage position add a head harness or a muzzle and connect the top D-ring to the shackle. In this layout I would not recommend inducing too much pain because heavy movement can lead to neck or spinal injuries. Of cause this layout can be used for lighter play like sensation play or – if you are not afraid to get lube on the leather – fisting.

I am a bit hesitant to recommend using the elbow strap. It is a great piece of bondage gear which can increase the sense of being bound quite a lot – also in other bondage layouts. But the construction is killing it for me. With the edges being unburnished, at best they are just sharp and uncomfortable. But if the sub moves a lot it can cause abrasions. In order to make this part of the toy useful I am actually considering having movable padding custom made like on the thighs on the suspension harness.

Detail of the Buckle of the Elbow Strap and the Unburnished Belt

Besides hogties this set can be used in many different other bondage layouts. If the added ankle cuffs don’t bother you the thigh restraint can be used to fetter down upper legs. To attach thicker rope or carabineers to the metal loop, simply use a shackle to add a larger anchor point. When the sub doesn’t have to small hands the ankle cuffs can be used to restrain wrists to the thighs. However this does only work if the bondage layout is either standing up or lying with the ankles also fettered. Otherwise there is a chance the sub can simply slip off the thigh restraint. On testee even used the restraint for pup play: He gave his puppy knee and elbow pads, connected the ankles to the thighs and the wrist to the collar and thus forced his sub in an even more dog-like position. However I do not recommend this form of stress bondage for extended periods of time since especially the elbows are not made to support such weight.

Conclusion: Unique and clever restraint set with one disappointing element.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique layout Finishing of the belt makes elbow strap unusable Regulation £459.99
Comfortable through thick padding
Very well made – except elbow strap
Locking
Plethora of D-rings

 

Mr S Fetters Locking Bondage Collar

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Vendor: Mr S

The Mr S Fetters Locking Collar

The Mr S Fetters Locking Collar

Construction

This collar is the matching one to the restraints I reviewed a couple of weeks ago. The basis of the collar is a sturdy bridle leather body. Onto the body a folded, 6.7cm wide piece of soft garment leather is sowed so the collar can be worn for extended periods of time without feeling uncomfortable. On the Fetters version instead of the double layer leather there is padding lined with soft garment leather.

Onto the body the bridle leather belt is riveted. The length and holes right until the first rivet allows for circumference between 30cm and 54cm. The belt is closed with a roller buckle for easy handling. Behind the buckle there is a locking post to lock the collar onto the sub. There are four solid, welded D-rings hold in place by the rivets.

The Mr S version is available in black, grey, rad and blue while you can get the Fetters model now in eight colors from classic black and grey up to vibrant green.

Detail of the Roller Buckle and Locking Post

Detail of the Roller Buckle and Locking Post

Playing with the Toy

Like I wrote in article about collars this category of toys fulfils two purposes: The first is showing to the world belonging and attachment. Being so comfortable and well made I have friends who wear this collar almost all the time when they are not in the office. This collar is just wide enough to be noticeable and thus remind the sub that he belongs to someone else yet narrow enough not to be annoying and thus interfering with his tasks. The locking post adds a great psychological momentum because the sub is not able to take the sign of the submission the top has put on him off.

Detail of a D-Ring

Detail of a D-Ring

From the play perspective what sets this collar apart is the number of D-rings. With four there are ample possibilities to attach the sub to furniture or other objects or the other way round attach things to the sub. Keeping in mind that anything that pulls on the neck can strangle the sub the collar can be incoorperated into numerous bondage layouts. A D-ring is a good place to attach rope for elaborate rope bondage layouts. On a lazier and more stressful side of things four D-rings are just enough for a very intense hogtie using ankle and wrist restraints.

Conclusion: Comfortable and versatile bondage collar
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Very well made Mr S $77.95
Locking Regulation £74.99
Four D-rings

 

Fetters Padded Locking Wrist & Ankle Cuffs

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Vendor: Regulation & Mr S

Fetters Padded Locking Restraints for Wrist and Ankle

Fetters Padded Locking Restraints for Wrist and Ankle

Construction

Both restraints are made in a cuff style: There is a piece of padding which goes around the joint which is fettered with a strap. The padding is a thick and soft piece of foam lined with soft leather. Onto the outside of the padding a piece of bridle leather which is a bid narrower than the padding. So even when the sub struggles heavily there is padding over the leather’s hard edges. The bridle leather piece is also only approx 4/5 as long as the padding leaving a part of it free the fold down for a secure fit even if the sub really has small wrists or ankles. Through the padding and onto the bridle leather piece the bridle leather belt is riveted. Four rivets hold the two D-rings, the locking posts and the roller buckle in place.

The belt on these restraints are long enough with holes punched close enough to the rivet that they can accommodate small to really large wrists and ankles. When you are on the larger end of the circumference spectrum there will be a space without padding which did not bother all testees.

Minimal Circumference Maximal Lockable Circumference Maximal Not Lockable Circumference
Wrist Restraints 10cm 24cm 32cm
Ankle Restraints 15.5cm 27cm 35.5cm

When I first got the restraints I was a bit puzzled by a rather large “wave” on the belt between the central rivets. It turns out that once you put the restraint onto a sub the padding follows the curvature of the wave so the belt does not get stretched! This attention to detail shows on the entire toy: The stitching is flawless, the D-rings are welded, the leather smells and feels like good, sustainably tanned leather is supposed to. In terms of customizing you just recently got the choice of black and white for the strap and a choice of 8 different colors for the padding to match your fetish gear.

Detail of the Lavish Padding

Detail of the Lavish Padding

Finally, a word on the Mr S restraints. The restraints I am reviewing are the ones from Fetters but I have played with the Mr S ones several dozen times in the USA. So I can assure you that in terms of quality and functionality they are no different than the ones from Fetters. The only difference is that you can “only” choose between black, grey, red and blue lining for the padding and that the straps are only available in black.

So a bit like with the ErosTek power boxes: When you are living in Europe, go for the ones from Regulation, when you living in the USA go for the ones from Mr S.

Playing with it

Detail of one of two D-Rings, the Locking Posts and the Roller Buckle,

Detail of one of two D-Rings, the Locking Posts and the Roller Buckle,

What sets these restraints apart from others is really the padding. It is so lavish, lush and soft that once broken in and fettered in a secure position there is no feeling of being restrained at all. It is only when the sub starts to struggle that the he feels that behind the pillowy veneer is a merciless, heavy duty restraint keeping them in place even when he fights hard! For that reason I like these restraints a lot for heavy scenes with a very active sub because the fragile joints are well protected by the thick padding. Because they are not that noticeable these restraints are great for subs who want to know they are fettered but are not comfortable (yet) with the tight feeling of a restraint around the joints. Being so comfortable I had several testees using them while sleeping. Since the initial bondage feeling is not quite there I recommend locking the belts slowly one after another so that the sub can hear the clicking sound and realizes that without the key they are not coming off.

Once it comes to tying someone down these restraints are made for complex bondage layouts. With two D-rings with a width of 37mm per restraints there are enough attachment points for elaborate bondage setups.

There are matching collars available: A padded one from Fetters and a non-padded one from Mr S which I will be reviewing in a couple of weeks.

Conclusion: Restraints comfortable enough to be worn 24/7 yet strict enough to power out even an extremely fighting sub.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Lavish padding for comfortable wear and exceptionally joint protection Padding could be a bit longer Fetters Wrist Restraints £79.99
Fetters Ankle Restraints £81.99
Mr S Wrist Restraints $139.95
Extremely well made out of high quality materials with attention to details Mr S Ankle Restraints §149.95
Two D-rings per restraint
Lockable
Lots of color customizing options to match favorite fetish gear

Fetters Handlock

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Vendor: Regulation

Always on the lookout for toys you can’t find everywhere I was very glad that Fetters send me this toy as a review sample to end the heavy bondage special.

Front of the Fetters Handlock

Front of the Fetters Handlock

Construction

The basis of this toy is an approx. 8cm wide and 40cm long sector shaped piece of latigo leather. At both ends of this piece a long latigo leather belt strap is riveted that runs along the back side and reenters the front side through two holes rectangular holes. Between these holes on the top, bottom and onto the middle of the front a d-ring is riveted. The two straps are secured through a pair of roller buckles with locking posts behind them. Between the buckles and the locking posts there is an additional d-ring. The back of the this restraint is lined with soft and thick leather padding that is way longer than the latigo body. So when the joints are fettered using the straps they are surrounded by padding.

Left Smallest and Right Largest possible Cuff Size of the Fetters Hand Lock

Left Smallest and Right Largest possible Cuff Size of the Fetters Hand Lock

Finally a word on the build quality: Like all Fetters toys I have had the honor of playing with so far the manufacturing of this toy is flawless. The stitching is meticulous, the rivets are perfectly in place, the d-rings and straps feel solid and the toy has an overall feeling of high quality to it –if it wasn’t for the holes for the strap. When I first got this toy I was surprised that there you could see foam at the backside along the edges of the holes. Of cause the holes are surrounded by a seam so there is no chance that they padding of leather will fray or tear. Yet such a minor imperfection I usually would not make a deal out of stands out of such perfection. So I got in touch with the guys and Fetters and asked for the reason. It turns out to get the holes in just the right angle and position they are punched through once the padding is added to the body. There is no other way to do it but through my input they are looking at ways to make the holes maybe look a bit nicer. Since they gave good reason why the toy is the way it is I won’t hold the design against them. Just don’t be surprised if you see some padding foam. Everything is perfectly ok.

Playing with it

As the name of this toy says it is made to lock both hands together. It basically works like a wide, comfortable handcuff. In order to really keep the sub from freeing himself you have to lock the straps in place. For this the max hole in the belt you can use it the 7th. While this might sound quite a lot of length you are losing I have yet to find a wrist that would not fit in this setting.

Detail of the Locking Post and the D-Ring next to the Roller Buckles

Detail of the Locking Post and the D-Ring next to the Roller Buckles

Once attached to the sub the bondage possibilities are nearly endless. With a total of five d-rings you can spin elaborate webs in a bondage frame. Through the padding this restraint is very comfortable to be worn over extended periods of time, even in rather uncomfortable positions. I have used this restraint to tie the hands behind the back or above the head while playing with wax, e-stim and on the nipples of the sub. This created quite the reacting but despite moving heavily and pulling on the restraint he didn’t slip out of it or felt uncomfortable. Of cause, this design is not made for suspending the entire body weight from them! This comfort can also be used to recreate one of the most iconic bondage positions: The hogtie. Simply connect the handlock to a pair of ankle restraints and let the sub slowly get uncomfortable. I would recommend using the top d-ring for that because than the force pulls in direction of the hands which is more comfortable than a perpendicular force. You might have seen my pictures of the impro straitjacket restraint setup I posted on Tumblr. This handlock can replace the feet restrain which keeps the arm together in front of the belly.

When a sub is bound using these restraints I would recommend him to fold the hands. It makes the restraints more secure and more comfortable. And is a hot look! Attach the restraints to a collar using a padlock so he can’t free himself and he at least looks that he is worshipping you.

Despite the name of this toy you can also use it as an ankle restraint – if the ankles aren’t too big. There is some foot movement possible through turning the leg inside the lock. Yet a fettered sub won’t go anywhere too soon. Naturally you are using the far end of the strap for that so you won’t be able to use the locking post. But this should not stop you to incorporate this toy in a bondage setup, p.e. as a foot restraint for a hogtie or when tying the sub in a latin cross position keeping his feet neatly together.

Conslusion: Unique and well made piece of bondage gear.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable over extended periods of time Locking posts could be closer to the buckle Regulation £109.95
Many different bondage possibilities
Very well made
5 D-rings

Buyer’s Guide To Collars

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ToyTorture.com has always been sort of a reflection of my own play style and my own desires manifested in toys. As authentic and honest reviews at that approach might create the flaw of it is that I am missing out on entire categories of toys. Sometimes I get asked about these categories over and over. Chastity is one of them, collars is another. Since a collar is the strongest bondage device out there yet I am not really into them I decided at the end of the Heavy Bondage Special to give a short overview of the collars out there. Especially in the paragraph about the symbolism of collars I am making a lot of generalizations. Please do not feel offended if your individual perception is different but celebrate it as the diversity that is the heart of our community. After that I briefly talk about the different materials collars can be made out of. The last and main part of this article are showing different kinds of collars. I sorted the collars into two categories: The first are decorative collars which primarily serve a symbolic purpose and through their designed are not primarily designed to be integrated into play. The latter category are functional collars which are made to be played with.

 

The Symbolism of Collars

Collars have a strong symbolic meaning in the BDSM community. They are a sign that a person belongs to someone. It is common for top who wants to establish a deeper and long-term orientated relationship with a bottom to put a collar around his neck to show him and the world that the sub belongs to him and is no longer free. This act is called “collaring”. Being collard usually implies a interdependent relationship: The top promises to give the sub something usually guidance, protection and play in exchange for the subs devotion, obedience, trust and loyalty. Due to the powerful contract which a collar symbolizes it is a very special piece of gear which is treated unlike any other. Usually only the top is allowed to put it on and take it off, most of the time also only the top may touch it. Touching the collar of a sub without asking the top for permission is considered highly offensive and even hostile by some people. In some high protocol situations it is even forbidden to talk to a collard sub because you are violating the property of another top. Also in a high protocol environment it is not uncommon for subs to walk around with a collar around his neck but with an open lock. This is a signal that he is open for a top to collar him. Closing the lock just for fun or laughs again is offensive because the sub probably hopes to get at least some of the affection listed above from the persons who closed the lock.

Materials

Collars can be made of nearly every fetish material out there. Most common are leather collars. Because the material is skin friendly and to a certain degree can absorb sweat it is best for long term wear. Rubber and neoprene lack this quality so wearing it for extended periods of time can lead to skin irritation, especially when wearing a collar out of stiff industrial rubber without deburred edges on bare skin. The last common material to mention here is metal. I have seen collars being made out of all different kinds of metal. However I would recommend only ones being made out of stainless steel or aluminum because even when exposed to sweat they do not rust. Other metals like cooper or steel oxidizes. Because a collar through constant movement experiences some physical stress corrosion prevention applied to steel like chrome or zinc wears off and the collar can rust again. Of cause noble metals like gold or platinum do not rust but you have to be quite the posh kinkster to afford such a collar. Metal collars come in form of chain, chainmail, rings or steel cable. When it comes to chain you can choose between welded and forged chain. Welded chain industrial made and thus cheaper and has a deburred weldseam. Depending on the quality the deburration is not as good as it should be so there is a potential for scratches when wearing a collar. So before wearing it check the seams of there are not rough edges.

More uncommon materials I have seen collars made out of are braided rope, jeans cloth, bike chain and tires.

Decorative Collars

Chain

Probably the most common form of the collars and thus comes in various styles (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). All have in common that they are closed by a pad lock which is mostly worn up front. The most common pattern is the anchor chain which is made out of round links which either come in long or short versions and in various thicknesses. Even when using a small pad lock the link size is usually so large that this kind of collar can’t be worn discreetly under a shirt. Depending on the personal style the chain can be worn longer or tight around the neck. The advantage of this chain is that you can easily attach things to the collar using pad locks or carabiners. Depending on the pad lock quality you can grab and pull the sub on this collar.

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Chainmail

Chainmail is a material where small metal rings are linked together to form a mesh-like surfaces. Collars out of this material are lighter and smaller and thus more discreet than chains. Of cause they are also more fragile and should not be pulled on. A nifty feature of the Mr S Aluminum ones is that they come in different colors so you can use them a bit as a hanky. If you can a bit more weighted feeling try out the stainless steel one.

Torquator Collar

Stylewise somewhere between a chain pattern and chainmail this collar was originally designed to restrain dogs. So this collar is popular by dog players especially of wild ones. When pulling onto this collar please be careful because serious injuries can be the result.

 

Cable Lock

Another discreet option is the cable lock collar from Recon. The collar itself is made out of coated steel but since there are no moving links the coating will probably will not rub off keeping the cable from rusting. The two endings are made out of stainless steel with colored rubber accents so again you can show your favorite kink. Unlike the chainmail collar this one is also closed with a lock which has a great psychologically effect. The lock and the collar are small and discreet enough to be worn under a dress shirt during work yet to frail to be pulled on.

Rope Collar

If a closed look is too much of a statement or you don’t like the idea of metal around your neck (after all a collar is all about the headspace), Mr S came up with a rope collar. It is made out of black braided rope and closed with a leather strap and a non-locking roller buckle. If you ask the guys at Mr S nicely the can probably make you this collar also in other colors

Tolan Collar

This is basically an ergonomically shaped ring of steel around the sub’s neck. It is nearly seamless and rather sleek so it can be worn under a business shirt without showing off or attracting attention. Since it is made out of stainless steel it will not rust.

Jougs

I am not sure if to put jougs into this category or the play category because wearing them for an extended period of time is definitely a punishment! Jougs or iron collars are made out of piece of steel, sometimes lined with leather for additional comfort. They are closed by padlocks, integrated locks or screws. Sometimes they come with d-rings welded onto them for added play possibilities. Sometimes following antic models they already have cuffs for the hands attached or even also feet welded with chains onto them. Another version are double rigid irons for the neck and the wrists for real stress bondage.

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The most sever iron collars I know off are made by Parus in Munich. I already wrote a Christmas gift tip about them last year. They are really well made, almost seamless with the integrated lock and so heavy that with some models I would like to recommend consulting your doctor about disc problems before putting them on!

Regardless of what kind of iron collar you are getting when shopping for a joug please watch for deburred edges otherwise severe abrasions can happen!

Functional Collars

Bondage collar

Another quite common type of collars (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). They basically are like a cuff style restraint just larger to fit around the neck. So very often you can get matching collars to your existing restraint set. Being made for play they come with d-rings to attach the sub to thing or restraint to the neck. Depending on the individual style some are locking which adds a sense of bondage. A pro tip: If you want to fetter a large boot, p.e. an MX boot, and your restraint set’s ankle cuffs are too small try out a collar. Most of the time they are large enough and will serve you well as a boot restraint.

Fetters Posture Collar

Fetters Posture Collar

Posture collar

A posture collar (look at Mr S or Regulation) is a more intense form of the bondage collar. It is quite wide and usually padded, sometimes it also has an anatomically formed chin rest. The effect of this design is that tilting of the head and nodding is getting extremely difficult locking the head in one place. Usually such a collar will also have d-rings and there are locking versions out there.

Chocking Collar

More a breathplay toy than just a simple collar please use this one with caution! This collar is basically a latigo leather belt that is closed by a rolling buckle tightly around the neck. On the other side of the belt is a small metal loop with a roller feature through which the belt exits. In that end a d-ring is added onto which a leash can be attached. If you pull on the leash the collar will tighten and chock the person wearing it.

Shock Collar

Shock collars were originally designed to train dogs. Onto a nylon collar a remote controllable box with two electrode pins is attached. Usually this kind of collars come with different intensity settings. I implore you to take advantage of these different settings and don’t start out too high! The shock boxes are designed to train even dogs which have thick fur and skin. On human skin they can leave burn marks or even damage the nerve system! There are fetish versions out there which are not so powerful but being a power bottom and pain pig myself I can see the temptations of “the real deal” especially when it comes to dog play. Yet still please be careful. Not sexual kink is worth losing your health permanently.

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Wrist to neck Restraint

Not really just a collar but the leather version of an iron collar with attached restraints. It is a leather lined locking collar onto which two locking wrist restraints are riveted. These rivets allow for some movement around its axis but otherwise the head has to go where the hand wants to be. Especially with added bondage mitts this will leave the sub quite helpless.

Collars Accessories

Especially with the raise of pup and dog play in the last couple of years collar accessories have gained popularity. Most commonly dog tags are used either in their original purpose to mark the dog and write his name on it. But I have also seen a bouquet of different colored tags as hankies. Of cause a dog needs guidance and sometimes restraining so leather leashes become quite popular.