Archiv des Autors: Frederik

E-Stim 2b Pro Pack

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Vendor: E-Stim System

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The E-Stim System 2b Pro Pack including the Power Unit and USB Link Cable

One of the most asked question regarding E-Stim is if the 2b is a good power unit. Since for a long time I haven’t had a chance to play with one I am very glad that E-Stim System provided me with a review sample for this year’s E-Stim Special.

Since this review was written, E-Stim Systems renamed the Pro Pack Bonus Pack, but the content stayed the same.

Construction

The 2b Pro Pack comes in a nice sturdy black box which with just a few modifications can also house some basic e-stim toys like sounds or conductive loops. Inside the storage box is the 2b power unit, a power supply unit with adaptors for the most common plug systems, a 9V battery, two 4mm banana plug leads, an audio CD with music for the audio input of the power box, the cable to connect your 2b to your PC, an USB stick with the connection and the remote control software which you need to update the firmware of your box and of cause a detailed printed manual.

The 2b power box itself is a black box which measures 145x80x35mm. On top on the right side there is a blue back light LCD. It shows the selected program, the adjustments done to the program (50:50 is the default value; the first value is for just turning the adjust knob, the second for when pressing the select button and turning the adjust knob), the output level of both channel, the selected output mode (low and high) and the battery status. Below that screen are three knobs and a button. The knobs from the left to the right control the intensity for channel A (under which the input of the internal mono microphone is located), the adjustment knob which manipulates the programs and the control for the intensity of channel B. If you press the button labeled select you enter the menu. By turning the adjustment know you can scroll through the different programs which you select by pressing the “Select” button again. After the different programs you reach the different setting menus where you can adjust the output level, engage the tri-phase mode, adjust the backlight or active the remote control mode. On the far right side of the top there are two LEDs which flesh in time with the stimulation.

The Control Panel of the E-Stim System 2b

The Control Panel of the E-Stim System 2b

On the front side there is a slider to activate the box and the input for the external power supply. On the right side there are three 3.5mm jackets. The left jacket is the output for the second channel, the middle is the input for the audio or the digital connection and the right is the output for the first channel. On the bottom of the box there is the lid under which the battery can be put.

Playing with it

Using the box is similar to other quite easy: Turn the box on using the slider and wait 7 seconds for it to boot while it makes a self check and it is ready for play. Then connect the leads to the electrodes, connect them to the box, select a program (the box boots by default into Pulse) and slowly increase the intensity on the desired channel. The 2b has 17 different programs. The sensation of the programs can be adjusted in two ways with different effects by either turning the adjust know or pressing down the select button while turning the adjust know.

Program Name Sensation Adjustment Knob Manipulation Effect Adjustment Knob + Select Button Manuplation Effect
Pulse Both channel simultaneously fire a sensation impulse Impulse Rate Impulse sensation from soft to stingy
Bounce An alternative sensation impulse on both channel Impulse rate Impulse sensation from soft to stingy
Continuous An impulse with such a high frequency that it is felt continuously Sensation from soft to stingy
A Split An impulse on Channel A is, while Channel  B is pulsed with such a high frequency that it is felt continuously Impulse Rate Impulse sensation from soft to stingy
B Split An impulse on Channel A is, while Channel  B is pulsed with such a high frequency that it is felt continuously Impulse Rate Impulse sensation from soft to stingy
Wave The sensation rises to a point depending on the intensity setting, drops to zero and starts rising again Steepness of the climb Impulse sensation from soft to stingy
Waterfall The sensation rises to a point depending on the intensity setting, gradually decreases and starts rising again Steepness of the climb Impulse sensation from soft to stingy
Squeeze An impulse with increasing speed until it reaches a continuous stimulation and starts over again Time it takes to reach continuous stimulation Impulse sensation from soft to stingy
Milk Similar like Squeeze yet with set-off channels so Channel B starts to fire when Channel A is almost continuous Time it takes to reach continuous stimulation Impulse sensation from soft to stingy
Throb A throbbing sensation Intensity of the throb.
Thrust A thrusting sensation Intensity of the thrust.
Random Random impulses are fired The lower the number the faster new impulses are fired Impulse sensation from soft to stingy
Step A bit like “Wave”: The sensation starts at zero, rises, drops and starts over with the end intensity increasing by 1% each stop to the maximum selected intensity. Pause between steps Impulse sensation from soft to stingy
Training Similar to “Step” but the increase is 1/12 of the selected intensity (or 1% if under 12% selected intensity). Pause between steps Impulse sensation from soft to stingy
Tickle A tickling sensation. The faster you turn the knob, the more intense the tickling become.
Stereo Input Creating sensations out of the input (p.e. music) from the 3.5mm jacket. The sensation from channel A are representations of the left stereo channel, channel B of the right. In order to allow for a varied sensation the input volume mustn’t be too high or too low. Sharpness of the response.
Microphone Creating sensations out of the input of the internal microphone. Since it is mono the sensation on both channel is the same. The microphone picks up blunt sounds (like screams and some level of conversation) but it not really made for delicate input like music. It is ok if you have nothing else at hand but if you want more control I would recommend attaching a microphone to the 3.5mm jacket for better and controlled input. Impulse sensation from soft to stingy
The E-Stim 2b Pro Pack including the Power Supply and USB-Link Cable

The E-Stim 2b Pro Pack including the Power Supply and USB-Link Cable

I have to be honest: My first impression of “Well, I max that box pretty quickly.” Then changed the output level to high, used the external power supply which gives an additional 30% power boost and I quite enjoyed it. Yet in order to really love the box you really need to get to know it (like actually all sophisticated digital e-stim boxes). Once you start experimenting with the different modifications through the adjustment knob and the feel of the sensation with select+adjust a whole new world opens up from soft sensation that slowly bring more and more pleasure until I came up to excruciating pain scenes.  That being said this is not a power unit you buy, take out of the packaging and have all the fun. Of cause the standard settings are good and will get you off well but to truly unleash the potential of this box it takes quite some (very entertaining) time.

Especially when you are starting out with this box, one thing that takes a bit time to get used to are the controls. The resistance of the control knobs is a bit strong so it is hard to turn up the intensity quickly. Also: Once you press the “Select” button the stimulation stops until you select a new one which as a safety precaution starts at 1% intensity which at least for my play style is a bit annoying. But as soon as I got used to it, I adjusted my play style and it didn’t bother me anymore.

The Command Software to Remotely Control your E-Stim 2b

The Command Software to Remotely Control your E-Stim 2b

What sets the 2b apart from other power boxes is the remote control feature. You can connect your box to you computer using the USB-link cable included in the Pro Pack (which can be purchase separately for £89) and than either control is via your computer or let someone else control it over the internet. E-Stim System says this feature is still in beta status so be prepared for problem. During my test I didn’t experience any but this might not be the rule.

UPDATE OCT 2018

During Erofame this year, E-Stim Systems introduced a new remote control service called „Connect“ which is more realiable and easier to control than the old Commander. You can read everything out it here.

The box comes with a lifetime warranty and after a bit chaotic group scene I can assure you that it is sturdy build enough for limited impact (though try not to be like me a knock it down a table thrice one evening!).

Conclusion: Powerful, flexible yet a bit hard to control e-stim power box.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Wide variety of sensations possible Takes long time to master E-Stim System

Mr S Leather 2b Power Pack

Mr S Leather Accessory Pack

 £379

$399.95

$119.95
Powerful if used correctly Controls are a bit firm
dual audio input

Oxballs Jolt & Volt

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Vendor: Oxballs

The Oxballs Jolt

The Oxballs Jolt

In last year’s e-stim special I already reviewed the Oxballs Zap and loved it a lot despite it being a bit small in some situations. So I am glad to start out this year’s e-stim special with two toys Oxballs sent me that fit most people with larger junks.

Construction

The construction of the Jolt is very much alike the Zap. The basis is a 12mm thick and between 20m and 24mm high on one side tapered ring out of platinum silicone which has a diameter of 45mm. On each high side there is hole through which the aluminum electrode is put. The contact area of the electrode has a diameter of 19mm. On the other side of the electrode there is a 4mm hole drilled in with there is sheath with a 2mm hole if you order the version for 2mm pin connector. The electrodes can be easily taken out for cleaning or using on other Oxballs e-stim toys.

Detail of the Electrode of the Oxballs Jolt

Detail of the Electrode of the Oxballs Jolt

The Volt is actually just an electrode. The profile of it looks like a C with a tapering base on one side. Inside the base there is the 4mm hole resp. 2mm sheath to connect the electrode with your power box. The space inside the C measures 16mm by 18mm. The entire electrode is 15mm wide and has an overall length of 39mm. It comes with a Sprocket cockring which is made out of Soflex TPR so it is super stretchy. It has a width of 10mm and a height of 12mm with a 25mm diameter opening in the middle.

The Oxballs Volt

The Oxballs Volt

Playing with it

The problem with the Zap designed as a ball stretcher was that through the rigidness of the platinum silicone it was hard to get over the balls. With the larger internal diameter of the Jolt this is no problem anymore – as long as you have a meat ball sack as I do. I have had people in my test pale whos balls were too big for the Zap yet too skinny for the Jolt. In this case the Volt comes into place: Through the C-shape part it can be attached to nearly any Oxballs toy or cockring. I have tried it with the Nuttsling, Splitsling, Powerballs, Trough and Unit X Stretch and it worked perfectly. So pick up two Volts, take your favorite Oxballs cockring (most ball stretchers from them are too high to work so if you want a stretch I recommend attaching the Volt to one and stack multiple stretcher) and put it around your balls. The ability to attach Volt to various ball toys makes it a nifty toy for all kinds of e-stim scenes. I used one at the top of a Nuttsling as the counter pole when using an e-stim sound. Another very useful scenario is putting a cockring around your wrist, attach the Volt and let the hand travel over the sub’s body holding a monopolar electrode like a pin wheel in your other hand. For this scenario I recommend using ample water-based lube.

Detail of the Oxballs Volt Electrode

Detail of the Oxballs Volt Electrode

But also the Jolt shines in the playroom. The tapered form allows for an even snuggier fit. It is also finally large enough to be put around pumped up dicks or (saline)-inflated balls or be worn as a cockring. Depending on if the opposite poles are left and right of the shaft or pressing against the root of the penis and the taint close to the prostate the effects can be… interesting. The most interesting scenario I used it for was in combination with an stainless steel ball stretcher. I put it around the already compressed balls. Through the ridgedness of the toy there was additionally lateral pressure applied to the balls. And then the e-stim was added…

The Oxballs Volt put onto Various Oxballs Toys

The Oxballs Volt put onto Various Oxballs Toys

Maintaining both toys is easy: They are safe to be used with the most common forms of lube like water- and oil-based, hybrid and silicone lubes. Though for the conductivity I strongly recommend only using both toys with water-based lube. When you have played with them simply wash them with warm water and detergent, rinse them and let them dry. After that to be extra safe I spray them with a sanitizer.

Conclusion: Very versatile bi-polar e-stim toy for larger (Jolt) and all sizes (Volt) junks.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Flexible with many usage scenarios Oxballs Jolt (bi-polar version)  $59
Easy to use
Resistant to most lubes Oxballs Volt (mono-polar version) $30
Easy to clean

McHurt Slave Driver

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Vendor: McHurt

Construction

Both Versions of the Short McHurt Slave Driver

Both Versions of the Short McHurt Slave Driver

These toys are basically build like traditional all leather riding whips were made before the shafts were made out of polymers. The handle is made out of four layers of English bridle leather which is sowed and glued together. Out of this handle the slapper develops. Depending on the version it is either a 25cm long and 1.5cm wide strap of bridle leather or four 27.5cm long 7mm wide square cut bridle leather straps. At the back end there is a woven knot and a leather loop. Both versions have a total length of 55cm without the loop.

Detail of the Knot and Loop at the End

Detail of the Knot and Loop at the End

The come in different color versions yet for some weird reason not in all black. I chose black with red accents which I guess will still fit most play rooms.

Playing with it

When I first showed these toys to a friend he said “Well, they kind of look like the child of a single tail and a riding whip” and that puts it really well. Both whips are vicious! Even a light tapping already produces some level of sting that with just a little bit more force becomes intense. Though the single slapper is a little bit less intense than the other one.

Detail of the Handle Turning into the Slapper

Detail of the Handle Turning into the Slapper

I like these toys for their handling. While in single tail terms the single strap one resembles a legree resp. dragon’s toung and the four square cut model is like a whistler, the handle of both toys are stiffer making them easier to control than a single tail. They are also just short enough to be used on a sub bound to a spanking bench yet just long enough to throw at the back of a sub bound to a St. Andrews Cross. Yet in this case most likely the tips only hit the back causing VERY intense pain. If you are more interested in the latter usage scenario there are longer versions of both toys available. Since McHurt doesn’t sell these toys online I sadly can’t tell you the exact length. If you are interested in them, just shoot them a mail.

Detail of the Two Different Slapper Versions

Detail of the Two Different Slapper Versions

Both toys mark fairly well and quickly. While the legree like produced more bruises, the whistler like whip can leave welts. A top of my test panel managed to break the skin with the whistler in a long scene. I could not recreate that yet it is something to be aware off. Especially since the leather has not surface treatment and thus is difficult to disinfect.

Conclusion: Vicious and easy to use stingy impact toys.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Intense sensation with minimal force Hard to clean McHurt Around 32€
Easy to Use
Well Made only out of Leather

 

My Weekend with Grindr

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My First Grindr Pic

My First Grindr Pic

I know I sometimes been a late adoperter yet I want to share this little experience with you.

For those who don’t know Grindr: It is a smartphone app that lets you find gay and bisexual men in your vicinity based on your current location data. I downloaded the app several times over the course of the last few years but never really used and thus quickly deleted it again. Last weekend there was an annual pop music festival in front of my dorm that attracts a four figure crowed and I thought “Maybe some cute boys make their way out to Lüneburg. So why not give Grindr a decent try?” So I downloaded the app on Friday morning and was excited to see what the weekend would bring.

The Offer

The major gay dating and actually social media platform I am using is PlanetRomeo. It is the major gay dating website in Germany. All my friends are on there, it is our main communication platform. There profile data you can enter is very detailed (though I would like to have more detailed kinky sex options), you can write a novel as a profile text and as a plus user you can upload as many pictures as you want to. So to a certain degree I feel I can create a to a degree authentic and deep picture of me. So creating a Grindr profile was a bit difficult. You can enter a nick name that most user don’t bother doing, the stats hardly go beyond rough physical  data, there is a small headline that can easily be overlook and you can write three lines as a profile text. The major selection criterion to click on a profile is the picture. So I put a lot of thought into choosing the right one (and replacing it quite frequently). The picture should at best represent me, my interests and what I am looking for on the platform. So I chose this because it has rubber, a little bit of red (I honestly didn’t think I would find BDSM dates there yet a fisting scene is quickly negotiated) and was very popular on PlanetRomeo. Once I uploaded it, I thought about replacing it. Since it is the only picture out there potential dates see I wanted them to see my full face and especially my glasses because that is the thing that for some weird reasons put the most people off online.

My Second Grindr Picture. Please, not comments

My Second Grindr Picture. Please, not comments

Grindr doesn’t have a website where you can alter the profile (or I haven’t found it yet). So I have to transfer pictures to my tablet and upload it from there onto the app. Because I was lazy and lay in bed I chose to take another picture out of my PlanetRomeo profile. Well… You don’ t have to tell me that I need new and better soccer gear pics. So that picture was on briefly on Grindr.

Next attempt: A picture from my more “civilian” PlanetRomeo profile (yes, I have more than one) taken the Sunday after Munich Pride 2015 relaxing next to the pool of a friend. A good picture of me, I like it a lot BUT: Again, you can’t tell from the picture that the sunglasses are correctional ones, I appear way slimmer than I actually am and I don’t have a Mohawk anymore.

Last profile picture change for now: In leather but rubber, too much top appearance but up to date and a better picture of me. So I stuck with it.

My Third Grindr Picture

My Third Grindr Picture

The Range

The first impression of the users: Everybody has a sixpack. Seriously: Everybody looked like a model on there, had sexy smiles, a bit of scruff. That was intimidating since I would have to “compete” with this gorgeous men for dates. At least theoretically because the majority of them lived in Hamburg or Hannover. Almost nobody lived close by and despite my expectations there was not rush of Grindr users coming to the music festival.

It took me some time to figure out that you can filter the users displayed by different criteria also so called “Tribes” which are scenes you can associate yourself with. I choose “Leather” as a filter assuming that this would be the most likely group I find interesting guys in. That made the distance problem even worse! Apparently there are nearly no “leather” guys in Hamburg and even Berlin fell short. The next large number of leather guys was in London. Also: I now learned that I was completely overdressed in my profile picture. Almost nobody wore gear. Again: Six packs and scruffy smiles with perfect teeth everywhere. I would have at least expected some bears or leather daddys yes nothing.

My Fourth and Final Grindr Picture

My Fourth and Final Grindr Picture

The Sales Pitch

I didn’t contact anybody I saw there. They were all out of my league and I was way too intimidated and afraid to get the usual “How does a guy like you think a guy like me would be interested in someone like you?!” So I simply waited. Five people actually messaged me. One was a bot. I was genuinely surprised that from being online for a weekend that only one bot messaged me. From what I have heard about Grindr I was ready to block user by the hour. So they finally got that sorted out which is a plus.

The other four messages were on one side expected: They were subs looking for a top, too horned up to read my profile text. What did surprise me was the distance: People were writing to me from Switzerland, Scotland and the south of France. So much for a location based, vicinity oriented app. But these chats quickly died after the realized they were not getting what they were looking for.

Honestly I was a bit disappointed at the end of the weekend. My image of Grindr was largely shaped by Grindr Fails posted by friends and corresponding accounts on Twitter. But nothing. No hilarity or anecdote happened. Maybe I am not good-looking enough to attract a… colorful crowd.

The Check

So what is the conclusion after a weekend on Grindr? An unspectacular one. I get more new contacts on Recon which is not that big in Germany and the contact quality even on Tumblr is higher. Maybe people with the body of an Adonis who live in really big gay centers like Berlin or large cities in the USA actually get laid using Grindr. I might give it another shot at a big kinky event like Folsom Europe but for now I can very live without it. If you want to get in touch with me hit me up on Recon, PlanetRomeo, Twitter or Tumblr.

Fort Troff Aluminum Frat Paddle

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The Fort Troff Aluminum Frat Paddle

The Fort Troff Aluminum Frat Paddle

Vendor: Ballistic Metal

Sometimes I wait so long to write a review that the shop where I have gotten the toy stopped selling it. Luckily in this case I found their original supplier which now makes the paddle a bit different. So please read this review careful where I point out the difference and check the pictures of the new store link if that is really the paddle you want to buy.

Construction

This paddle is shaped in the traditional fraternity paddle shape. It is made out of 0.7mm thick aircraft grade aluminum and weights 500g. The head is roughly 30cm by 8.5cm and features three rows of four respective five holes. The handle is 14.5cm by 3.5cm which at my Fort Troff paddle is covered with a rubber sheath for better grip but sadly lacks a hole for a loop. The Ballistic Metal version has three furrows engraved and a t-shape end for better grip. It also has a hole for a loop.

Detail of the Holes to Reduce Air Drag

Detail of the Holes to Reduce Air Drag

Playing with it

This is a nasty and delicate spanking implement! The holes drilled through the head reduce the air drag significantly so there is nothing to lessen the blow. Also, the material has no give so the entire kinetic force hits the sub’s body. So you quickly cross the threshold from stimulating tapping to rather stingy pain which can become excruciating with a lot of force. If you enter this area of pain please be careful. Being made out of metal it can break bones! So I recommend only use the most extreme force on well padded body like the thighs or the ass. And even there please be considerate.

Naturally with such a small handle the paddle is not very well balanced so be cautious when using this paddle not to tire out your wrist.

A nice material property of aluminum is the fact that is quickly takes on temperature. So when the area is nicely spanked red and warm dip the paddle into a bucket of ice water for a minute to let it cool down. The sensation of a cold paddle hitting a warm body area is quite unique.

Conclusion: Sever and indestructible spanking paddle.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Indestructible Unbalanced Ballistic Metal $79.90
Handy

 

Oxballs Ball Busting Paddles

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Vendor: Oxballs/ Ballistic Metal/ The Kinksters

The Oxballs Spyro Ball Busting Paddle

The Oxballs Spyro Ball Busting Paddle

Design

The shape of this toy is the one of a traditional ball buster. First there is the handle which is made out of aircraft grade aluminum. It is 28.5cm long and 3.3cm wide. The lover 2/5 of the handle are covered with a rubber sheath for better grip. If you want to feel the aluminum in your hand you can take the rubber off. On the other end a 3.5cm thick silicone pad is attached. It is round with a diameter of 9cm. While one side is plain the other side has some texture on it. The Spyro features a vortex while the Stay has a puppy paw and the Basher a number of spikes.

The entire Spyro ball buster weights 500g.

Playing with it

What first struck me when picking up this toy for the first time was the balance. You can use it without tiring out your wrist for extended periods of time. This balance is good because this paddle offers a wide range of different pain sensations making it ideal for long elaborated scenes. The plain side is somewhat stingy despite the soft material and relatively high weight of the toy. The small diameter delivers the pain in a concentrated area. Because of that as the name says this toy is ideal for ball busting. Simply tie the balls down (best use on of Oxballs many stretchers and rings or for an even more intense sensation a metal ball stretcher) and start gently tapping against the balls with increasing intensity.

Detail of the Plain Backside of the Oxballs Spyro

Detail of the Plain Backside of the Oxballs Spyro

The sensation of the other side greatly depends which of the three different versions you own. The vortex of the Spyro traps air thus creating a cushion which makes the impact sensation a bit softer. With the Stay the initial impact area is smaller so the sting is a bit more intense. Also, it you are good at targeting and your sub is well restrained in place after only a few smacks you start leaving a paw shaped mark that depending on the intensity and duration of the scene will stay for a while. The Basher in my opinion is not really made for impact play. The spikes trap air, they bend and it is difficult to hit precisely with hit because you can slip during the impact. The spikes are more made for sensation play. Let the head travel over the sub’s body to tickle him or give him goose bumps. The sensation can be altered when using lube. Without the silicone is a bit sticky causing a rougher, choppy ride over the body, when using water-based lube is a smooth journey. Please only use water-based lube since silicone lube will disintegrate the toy!

If you have the Spyro or Stay you can grab the top using it as a round handle (due the spikes of the Basher I it hard to grab) to use the aluminum handle as a paddle. Of cause the ergonomics of this toy weren’t really layed out for this usage so your wrist will tire out quickly. Yet the sting of this lightweight, small paddle is intense!

Detail of the Vortex of the Oxballs Spyro

Detail of the Vortex of the Oxballs Spyro

Additionally to the wide range of possible sensation the material makes this toy ideal for play parties. It is somewhat small, not too heavy and can be disinfected easily so you can use it on multiple play partners with just short cleaning breaks without having to worry about transmitting any bacteria.

A disadvantage that really annoyed me was the lack of a hole for a loop. I prefer to have a loop to secure the toy on my wrist so I don’t have to put it down when I check in on a sub which sadly it not possible with this toy. Same problem with storing it: While my other impact toys are hanging ready to grab in a scene I need to open a drawer to get this one. I know, this is a minor thing that doesn’t impact the toy’s performance yet it really annoys me.

Finally a word on availability: Sadly these great toys are a bit hard to come by especially in Europe. So if you are looking for another variety but the Basher you have to order it from the USA.

Conclusion: Very versatile ball busting toy with true spanking potential
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Wide range of sensations No loop for holding it/ storage Spyro Ballistic Metal/ Oxballs $84.95/$79
Versatile Stay Ballistic Metal/ Oxballs $84.95/$79
Basher Ballistic Metal/ Oxballs/ The Kinksters $84.95/$84/£43.99
Well build
Easy to clean

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil’ Rubber Paddle

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Vendor: Mr S

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil' Rubber Paddle

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil‘ Rubber Paddle

Construction

As the name of these toys already states they are made out of rubber. While the scent is not as intense as on a piece of rubber clothing they have a faint, for most rubber fetishists stimulating tire scent. The stick is 46cm long, has a diameter of 1.9cm and weights approx. 150g. The main body of the paddle measures 18x8cm and has a 12×3.5cm long grip. The paddle is 1.2cm thick and weights 250g.

Both toys have a hole drilled through their rear end through which with leather string forms a strap.

Playing with it

A friend of mine from Chicago calls the Nasty Rubber Stick his “ouch stick” and right he is. Despite the considerably high weight for an impact toy, the little give in the material makes them stingy as hell! I recommend approaching the max. impact power very slowely cause the blast they deliver is intense and even a mild to medium continuous tapping can be agonizing. Naturally both toys color a sub very quickly. Even a medium blow will leave a red mark on the skin that will stay for some time. When you put real force into the single hits and concentrate on one area bruises will inevitably occur!

Detail of the Leather Strap

Detail of the Leather Strap

If you want to get a somewhat mild impact sensation out of these toys I recommend snapping them. Being very flexible the snap back not fast and thus the sensation is a mild thuddish sting.

Rubber conducts temperature very well. So as the cheeks of the sub begin to turn red and warm the paddle will get warmer. Of cause this also works in the other direction. For an interesting twist stick the paddle in a bucket of ice water. This effect isn’t as strong as with metals and due to begin frail when frozen don’t put the rubber toys into the freezer before a scene. For that I would recommend aluminum impact toys.

A big advantage of these toys is the material: When you play with different partners at a play party simple spray disinfection spray on the toys and rub it off. The rubber will take no damage from it. While you can use silicone oil or lube to make these toys shiny like rubber gear I would not recommend it. The silicone will make the toy slippy then hitting the sub and create a film on the impact area. So if you switch to another toy it will pick up the silicone lube.

Conslusion: Sever and low maintenance impact toy.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Creates intense sensation without much effort Hard to dose sensation Mr S’ Nasty Rubber Stick $28.95
Easy to clean Mr S’ Nasty Lil’ Rubber Paddle $28.95
Inexpensive

 

Fetters Handlock

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Vendor: Regulation

Always on the lookout for toys you can’t find everywhere I was very glad that Fetters send me this toy as a review sample to end the heavy bondage special.

Front of the Fetters Handlock

Front of the Fetters Handlock

Construction

The basis of this toy is an approx. 8cm wide and 40cm long sector shaped piece of latigo leather. At both ends of this piece a long latigo leather belt strap is riveted that runs along the back side and reenters the front side through two holes rectangular holes. Between these holes on the top, bottom and onto the middle of the front a d-ring is riveted. The two straps are secured through a pair of roller buckles with locking posts behind them. Between the buckles and the locking posts there is an additional d-ring. The back of the this restraint is lined with soft and thick leather padding that is way longer than the latigo body. So when the joints are fettered using the straps they are surrounded by padding.

Left Smallest and Right Largest possible Cuff Size of the Fetters Hand Lock

Left Smallest and Right Largest possible Cuff Size of the Fetters Hand Lock

Finally a word on the build quality: Like all Fetters toys I have had the honor of playing with so far the manufacturing of this toy is flawless. The stitching is meticulous, the rivets are perfectly in place, the d-rings and straps feel solid and the toy has an overall feeling of high quality to it –if it wasn’t for the holes for the strap. When I first got this toy I was surprised that there you could see foam at the backside along the edges of the holes. Of cause the holes are surrounded by a seam so there is no chance that they padding of leather will fray or tear. Yet such a minor imperfection I usually would not make a deal out of stands out of such perfection. So I got in touch with the guys and Fetters and asked for the reason. It turns out to get the holes in just the right angle and position they are punched through once the padding is added to the body. There is no other way to do it but through my input they are looking at ways to make the holes maybe look a bit nicer. Since they gave good reason why the toy is the way it is I won’t hold the design against them. Just don’t be surprised if you see some padding foam. Everything is perfectly ok.

Playing with it

As the name of this toy says it is made to lock both hands together. It basically works like a wide, comfortable handcuff. In order to really keep the sub from freeing himself you have to lock the straps in place. For this the max hole in the belt you can use it the 7th. While this might sound quite a lot of length you are losing I have yet to find a wrist that would not fit in this setting.

Detail of the Locking Post and the D-Ring next to the Roller Buckles

Detail of the Locking Post and the D-Ring next to the Roller Buckles

Once attached to the sub the bondage possibilities are nearly endless. With a total of five d-rings you can spin elaborate webs in a bondage frame. Through the padding this restraint is very comfortable to be worn over extended periods of time, even in rather uncomfortable positions. I have used this restraint to tie the hands behind the back or above the head while playing with wax, e-stim and on the nipples of the sub. This created quite the reacting but despite moving heavily and pulling on the restraint he didn’t slip out of it or felt uncomfortable. Of cause, this design is not made for suspending the entire body weight from them! This comfort can also be used to recreate one of the most iconic bondage positions: The hogtie. Simply connect the handlock to a pair of ankle restraints and let the sub slowly get uncomfortable. I would recommend using the top d-ring for that because than the force pulls in direction of the hands which is more comfortable than a perpendicular force. You might have seen my pictures of the impro straitjacket restraint setup I posted on Tumblr. This handlock can replace the feet restrain which keeps the arm together in front of the belly.

When a sub is bound using these restraints I would recommend him to fold the hands. It makes the restraints more secure and more comfortable. And is a hot look! Attach the restraints to a collar using a padlock so he can’t free himself and he at least looks that he is worshipping you.

Despite the name of this toy you can also use it as an ankle restraint – if the ankles aren’t too big. There is some foot movement possible through turning the leg inside the lock. Yet a fettered sub won’t go anywhere too soon. Naturally you are using the far end of the strap for that so you won’t be able to use the locking post. But this should not stop you to incorporate this toy in a bondage setup, p.e. as a foot restraint for a hogtie or when tying the sub in a latin cross position keeping his feet neatly together.

Conslusion: Unique and well made piece of bondage gear.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable over extended periods of time Locking posts could be closer to the buckle Regulation £109.95
Many different bondage possibilities
Very well made
5 D-rings

Buyer’s Guide To Collars

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ToyTorture.com has always been sort of a reflection of my own play style and my own desires manifested in toys. As authentic and honest reviews at that approach might create the flaw of it is that I am missing out on entire categories of toys. Sometimes I get asked about these categories over and over. Chastity is one of them, collars is another. Since a collar is the strongest bondage device out there yet I am not really into them I decided at the end of the Heavy Bondage Special to give a short overview of the collars out there. Especially in the paragraph about the symbolism of collars I am making a lot of generalizations. Please do not feel offended if your individual perception is different but celebrate it as the diversity that is the heart of our community. After that I briefly talk about the different materials collars can be made out of. The last and main part of this article are showing different kinds of collars. I sorted the collars into two categories: The first are decorative collars which primarily serve a symbolic purpose and through their designed are not primarily designed to be integrated into play. The latter category are functional collars which are made to be played with.

 

The Symbolism of Collars

Collars have a strong symbolic meaning in the BDSM community. They are a sign that a person belongs to someone. It is common for top who wants to establish a deeper and long-term orientated relationship with a bottom to put a collar around his neck to show him and the world that the sub belongs to him and is no longer free. This act is called “collaring”. Being collard usually implies a interdependent relationship: The top promises to give the sub something usually guidance, protection and play in exchange for the subs devotion, obedience, trust and loyalty. Due to the powerful contract which a collar symbolizes it is a very special piece of gear which is treated unlike any other. Usually only the top is allowed to put it on and take it off, most of the time also only the top may touch it. Touching the collar of a sub without asking the top for permission is considered highly offensive and even hostile by some people. In some high protocol situations it is even forbidden to talk to a collard sub because you are violating the property of another top. Also in a high protocol environment it is not uncommon for subs to walk around with a collar around his neck but with an open lock. This is a signal that he is open for a top to collar him. Closing the lock just for fun or laughs again is offensive because the sub probably hopes to get at least some of the affection listed above from the persons who closed the lock.

Materials

Collars can be made of nearly every fetish material out there. Most common are leather collars. Because the material is skin friendly and to a certain degree can absorb sweat it is best for long term wear. Rubber and neoprene lack this quality so wearing it for extended periods of time can lead to skin irritation, especially when wearing a collar out of stiff industrial rubber without deburred edges on bare skin. The last common material to mention here is metal. I have seen collars being made out of all different kinds of metal. However I would recommend only ones being made out of stainless steel or aluminum because even when exposed to sweat they do not rust. Other metals like cooper or steel oxidizes. Because a collar through constant movement experiences some physical stress corrosion prevention applied to steel like chrome or zinc wears off and the collar can rust again. Of cause noble metals like gold or platinum do not rust but you have to be quite the posh kinkster to afford such a collar. Metal collars come in form of chain, chainmail, rings or steel cable. When it comes to chain you can choose between welded and forged chain. Welded chain industrial made and thus cheaper and has a deburred weldseam. Depending on the quality the deburration is not as good as it should be so there is a potential for scratches when wearing a collar. So before wearing it check the seams of there are not rough edges.

More uncommon materials I have seen collars made out of are braided rope, jeans cloth, bike chain and tires.

Decorative Collars

Chain

Probably the most common form of the collars and thus comes in various styles (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). All have in common that they are closed by a pad lock which is mostly worn up front. The most common pattern is the anchor chain which is made out of round links which either come in long or short versions and in various thicknesses. Even when using a small pad lock the link size is usually so large that this kind of collar can’t be worn discreetly under a shirt. Depending on the personal style the chain can be worn longer or tight around the neck. The advantage of this chain is that you can easily attach things to the collar using pad locks or carabiners. Depending on the pad lock quality you can grab and pull the sub on this collar.

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Chainmail

Chainmail is a material where small metal rings are linked together to form a mesh-like surfaces. Collars out of this material are lighter and smaller and thus more discreet than chains. Of cause they are also more fragile and should not be pulled on. A nifty feature of the Mr S Aluminum ones is that they come in different colors so you can use them a bit as a hanky. If you can a bit more weighted feeling try out the stainless steel one.

Torquator Collar

Stylewise somewhere between a chain pattern and chainmail this collar was originally designed to restrain dogs. So this collar is popular by dog players especially of wild ones. When pulling onto this collar please be careful because serious injuries can be the result.

 

Cable Lock

Another discreet option is the cable lock collar from Recon. The collar itself is made out of coated steel but since there are no moving links the coating will probably will not rub off keeping the cable from rusting. The two endings are made out of stainless steel with colored rubber accents so again you can show your favorite kink. Unlike the chainmail collar this one is also closed with a lock which has a great psychologically effect. The lock and the collar are small and discreet enough to be worn under a dress shirt during work yet to frail to be pulled on.

Rope Collar

If a closed look is too much of a statement or you don’t like the idea of metal around your neck (after all a collar is all about the headspace), Mr S came up with a rope collar. It is made out of black braided rope and closed with a leather strap and a non-locking roller buckle. If you ask the guys at Mr S nicely the can probably make you this collar also in other colors

Tolan Collar

This is basically an ergonomically shaped ring of steel around the sub’s neck. It is nearly seamless and rather sleek so it can be worn under a business shirt without showing off or attracting attention. Since it is made out of stainless steel it will not rust.

Jougs

I am not sure if to put jougs into this category or the play category because wearing them for an extended period of time is definitely a punishment! Jougs or iron collars are made out of piece of steel, sometimes lined with leather for additional comfort. They are closed by padlocks, integrated locks or screws. Sometimes they come with d-rings welded onto them for added play possibilities. Sometimes following antic models they already have cuffs for the hands attached or even also feet welded with chains onto them. Another version are double rigid irons for the neck and the wrists for real stress bondage.

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The most sever iron collars I know off are made by Parus in Munich. I already wrote a Christmas gift tip about them last year. They are really well made, almost seamless with the integrated lock and so heavy that with some models I would like to recommend consulting your doctor about disc problems before putting them on!

Regardless of what kind of iron collar you are getting when shopping for a joug please watch for deburred edges otherwise severe abrasions can happen!

Functional Collars

Bondage collar

Another quite common type of collars (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). They basically are like a cuff style restraint just larger to fit around the neck. So very often you can get matching collars to your existing restraint set. Being made for play they come with d-rings to attach the sub to thing or restraint to the neck. Depending on the individual style some are locking which adds a sense of bondage. A pro tip: If you want to fetter a large boot, p.e. an MX boot, and your restraint set’s ankle cuffs are too small try out a collar. Most of the time they are large enough and will serve you well as a boot restraint.

Fetters Posture Collar

Fetters Posture Collar

Posture collar

A posture collar (look at Mr S or Regulation) is a more intense form of the bondage collar. It is quite wide and usually padded, sometimes it also has an anatomically formed chin rest. The effect of this design is that tilting of the head and nodding is getting extremely difficult locking the head in one place. Usually such a collar will also have d-rings and there are locking versions out there.

Chocking Collar

More a breathplay toy than just a simple collar please use this one with caution! This collar is basically a latigo leather belt that is closed by a rolling buckle tightly around the neck. On the other side of the belt is a small metal loop with a roller feature through which the belt exits. In that end a d-ring is added onto which a leash can be attached. If you pull on the leash the collar will tighten and chock the person wearing it.

Shock Collar

Shock collars were originally designed to train dogs. Onto a nylon collar a remote controllable box with two electrode pins is attached. Usually this kind of collars come with different intensity settings. I implore you to take advantage of these different settings and don’t start out too high! The shock boxes are designed to train even dogs which have thick fur and skin. On human skin they can leave burn marks or even damage the nerve system! There are fetish versions out there which are not so powerful but being a power bottom and pain pig myself I can see the temptations of “the real deal” especially when it comes to dog play. Yet still please be careful. Not sexual kink is worth losing your health permanently.

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Wrist to neck Restraint

Not really just a collar but the leather version of an iron collar with attached restraints. It is a leather lined locking collar onto which two locking wrist restraints are riveted. These rivets allow for some movement around its axis but otherwise the head has to go where the hand wants to be. Especially with added bondage mitts this will leave the sub quite helpless.

Collars Accessories

Especially with the raise of pup and dog play in the last couple of years collar accessories have gained popularity. Most commonly dog tags are used either in their original purpose to mark the dog and write his name on it. But I have also seen a bouquet of different colored tags as hankies. Of cause a dog needs guidance and sometimes restraining so leather leashes become quite popular.

Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

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All Retraints of the Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

All Retraints of the Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set

My toy purchasing process is quite easy. When I see a toy it has to fascinate me and spark my imagination. I need to start dreaming what I can do with it and what can be done to me using it. Sometimes it takes two to three visits when the faint “This is interesting” turns into “I need that in my life and playroom!” But sometimes there is an instant connection to a toy.

Last Friday I was working on my master thesis when the new Regulation newsletter popped up. Their headlining product was the new Fetters Heavy Leather Hogtie Set. I was immediately drawn to this product and my kinky fantasy was running wild. Actually it was so enticing that I stopped working in my thesis. That really means something when toys are you hobby and you have seen a lot.

Detail of how the Wrist Restraint in Connected to the Thigh Restraint

Detail of how the Wrist Restraint in Connected to the Thigh Restraint

This set is actually not very new but a clever combination of existing toys with a nifty addition: They have taken their padded thigh-to-ankle restraints to bind them together. Onto this restraint they added a flat loop through with the belt of their trusted padded wrist restraint goes. So wrists and ankles are connected to the thigh limiting the movement even further. Naturally coming from their premium restraint range all pieces are locking and feature two welded D-rings. For additionally fettering they developed a belt with two loops to bind the upper arms together. This piece of bondage is also locking.

All piece of gear can of cause be used individually yet it is the combination that makes them shine. I can’t wait to get my hands on one of these sets and try it out myself. It retails for £249 which is a pretty good deal when you keep in mind what you are getting for your money.