Schlagwort-Archiv: Rubber

Buyer’s Guide to Pup Gear

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Ever since I started ToyTorture.com I have been asked why I don’t write about pup gear. There were two reasons for that: First I usually don’t write about fetish gear because there is no way to say that a is better than b when b makes you drool and a leave you cold. Second I am not into pup play and since I always try out the toys I write about myself and I don’t get the head space effect of pup toys I found no way to write about pup toys. But the mails and questions especially from kinkster just getting into the pup scene did not stopp. I have been woofed and growled at, my legs have been humped at events while asking for advice and I have been told that it would be totally pawesome if I wrote about pup gear. So as a Christmas treat (ok, enough now of the bad puppy jokes) I spent the last couple of weeks looking at pup gear, talking to pup players and I finally wrote this (Beginners) Buyer’s Guide to Pup Gear.

As always: If I have gotten something wrong or forgot something please let me know and help me improve this article.

Head Gear

What comes to mind first when you talk about puppy gear are the different puppy hoods. They come in two major styles: Full and open hood. Full hood encase the entire head. Since the pup play community has grown there are hoods out there for almost every breed of dog and they are made out of the major fetish materials rubber and leather. While the rubber ones come mostly only in classic black, there is a wide selection of different leather ones out there; just recently Mr S introduced custom leather puppy hoods catering to the most discriminating demands. Open hoods loosely resemble the style of head harnesses. They usually have a snout, ears and sometimes even a collar and come in rubber, neoprene and leather.

Not really specific puppy gear but purposes wise related are muzzles. Designed to keep the mouth of talkative subs or biting K9s shut they are more of a functional toy than designed to enhance the pup looks. You can get them made out of neoprene, leather or rubber, depending on your fetish and play style. The rubber muzzle from Regulation is quite sturdy but if you attach a leash onto it and the pup pulls to hard there is a chance that the rubber will tear. If the puppy is very active, stay with leather. I have talked to some guys who own puppy hoods and muzzles and they said that there are combinations where you can wear a hood and a muzzle. Sadly there is no general rule of thumb so if you want to wear both pieces of gear you have to try it out.

 

Tails

Another distinctive pup play toy is the tail. The most commonly used are tails that are attached to a butt plug. I would recommend the ones from Square Pegs because they are seamless and thus comfortable to wear even for a longer mosh or walk. They come in different tail shapes, colors and butt plug sizes. Choosing the right plug size is a bit difficult. I was told that it is useful to choose a plug one size larger than you can easily take because the tail stays in place even when you wag and romp without having to constantly pinch your sphincter. However the tail is of no use if you can’t insert it at all due to being too big. Another way of keeping the tail in place is wearing a special kind of harness.

This kind of tail has gained quite some popularity in the non-puppy ass play community: When you are wearing a tail while fucking someone the moving momentum of the tail gets transferred to the plug section which than stimulates the prostate.

If you don’t want to wear a plug-style tail Oxballs and Square Peg have recently introduced tails without the plug. The Square Peg one comes with a base and is designed to be put through a hole, or can be attached to a neoprene or leather harness, the Oxballs is designed to be attached to a special harness.

 

 

Collars

The origin of collars in the BDSM scene as a sign of submission and belonging come from the dog collars. So it is only natural that they fulfill the same purpose in the pup play community. Besides being an indicator they are also practical for attaching a leash or a dog tag.

Collars are probably the piece of pup gear with the widest selection of options. They come in nearly every material and color used in kink. Either coordinate it with your hood or harness or use the collar color as a hanky. If you want an inescapable feeling you can get locking ones or if you want some added play value I recommend getting a collar with more than one D-ring.

If the pup still needs training a shock collar might be the item to get. Especially for novice pups I would recommend shock collars made for BDSM purposes. If you choose one for dogs be real careful with the intensity. The electrodes and outputs are designed to even have a distinct effect when going through thick fur. Since with humans the electrodes touch bare skin on high intensity levels they can leave burn marks or cause nerve damage!

Mitts and Knee Pads

Since puppys tend to be on all fours while playing and the human being isn’t really made for this posture, protection is needed. Mitts are a little bit more fetish than security item. Usually a pup can see where he places his palms, so when choosing mitts the appearance is more important. The most commonly used types of mitts are either lockable bondage ones made out of rubber or leather which leave the pup at the mercy of their handler or mitts that have paw-like prints or cut-outs glued to the bottom. On the other hand knee pads are essential for long term pup play. When being on the knees for an extended period of time they provide comfort and protection, especially when walking around outdoor. They might not look sexy and I haven’t found ones yet tailored to the aesthetic demands of the pup community but every pup player I talked to highly recommended softly padded ones for every pup who enjoys kneeing and being on all fours for extended periods of time.

 

Harnesses

Finding the right harness for a puppy is a two step process: First you need to consider how active the puppy is. If you attach a leash to an active puppy via the harness its material should withstand greater forces so I would recommend buying a leather harness. Otherwise you can either choose rubber, leather or neoprene. The second question is the style: For a more “natural” puppy look I was told to rather take chest harnesses instead of full body harnesses. This doesn’t limit your options that much since in the last couple of years a lot of different chest harness styles – Bulldog, Pitbull, English, Top or Hunter – came out. Like with collars you can most of the times add a second color for piping to match the rest of your gear or express a certain preference hankylike.

Accessories and Play Toys

Once the puppy is full dressed in gear the is an endless amount of accessories out there. A good one to start with are dog tags so other pups and handlers can read the pup name. Besides the dog tags traditionally being made out of metal Oxballs designed cockrings with an attached dog tag so you can show your fetish even when being out in a club without and puppy gear.

When it comes to toys for the actual play, the possibilities are endless. The most common are dog bowls, bite and squeaky toys, either made for bio dogs or from special fetish manufacturers. Naming them all is impossible so I recommend going out to your local pet or fetish store.

 

Items designed for bio dogs

Some players want the real deal and buy stuff designed for bio dogs. In most cases they are a bit cheaper than BDSM toys and naturally of cause more authentic. But always keep in mind that they weren’t design for humans. Especially when it comes to collars they are designed to be worn over a thick fur so irritations are possible. If you want real dog gear I recommend trying it out even more thoroughly than you would do with normal BDSM gear even though that might get you some weird looks at the pet store.

What you should never do is eat real dog food! Most dog food has crushed bones mixed into in order to keep the teeth of dogs from getting too long. The human set of teeth and digestion organs are not design to deal with such food! If you want an almost dog-like appeal by dog treats, give the content to a bio dog and put beef jerky into them.

Blackstyle Mouthopener Gag

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Vendor: Blackstyle

The Blackstyle Mouthopener Gag

The Blackstyle Mouthopener Gag

Construction

This gag is made out one piece of 1.4mm thick rubber. With a recess for the nose the main body of it is shaped ergonomically so it can be worn even by people with smaller heads without any problems. In the middle of the main body a quite sturdy rubber covered tube is glued. It has an external diameter of 44mm, an internal of 39mm and goes 32mm into the mouth of the sub. The strap is 30mm wide and ends in a roller buckle which is hold in place by a rivet. On the other side 6 rivet reinforced holes are punched into the strap allowing the circumference to be adjusted between 44cm and 54cm. The part of the strap holding the buckle as well as the area with the holes has been cut in the half, reinforced with fabric taped and glued together again.

Detail of the Roller Buckle with reinforced Holes

Detail of the Roller Buckle with reinforced Holes

Playing with it

Two major forms of play are possible with this gag: First of all the tube makes it ideal for forcing the subs to take substances into his mouth. Most obvious are spit and piss. But when you hold the subs nose and insert larger quantities of water the gag can be an interesting (and dangerous!) torture instrument. Secondly because of the large object being present in the sub’s mouth it encourages the body to produce saliva so it is a good gag for drooling. Depending on the sub’s salvia production and the amount of evaporation through the tube wearing this gag for an extended period of time can be an interesting swing of sensations between drooling and having a dry mouth. Don’t forget to rehydrate your sub when engaging into this form of play.

Detail of the Fabric Tape reinforced Rubber

Detail of the Fabric Tape reinforced Rubber

The third can be a problem or rather a trade-off lying in the nature of this gag: Because the tube has to be solid and a somewhat considerable diameter in order to fulfill its purpose it can be weary tiring to the jaw to wear this gag. This effect can be lessened a bit by training but please bear in mind that not every sub’s jaw is made for serving as a urinal for an entire night. However if you are into stress bondage this might be the gag to get.

Conslusion: Good all rubber gag for forcing subs to consumes substances
Pro Cons Where to get Price
All rubber Quite large tube diameter Blackstyle 49€
For a rubber toy quite sturdy design

 

Mr S Rubber Ball Gag

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Vendor: Mr S

The Mr S Rubber Ball Gag

The Mr S Rubber Ball Gag

Construction

The main body of this ball gag has roughly the shape of a wrapped hard candy: The mouthpiece has a diameter of 42mm and a length of 49mm. It ends on both sides in triangular flaps so there is little stress on the corners of the mouth when wearing the gag. Onto the flaps the strap is riveted. It is 18mm wide, can be adjusted between 45cm and 55cm circumference and is made out of Mr S’ soft oil tanned leather like this ball stretcher. A nice tough are the pieces of leather covering the back side of the rivet. This minimize the contact between the rubber and the metal and absorb a bit of draft put in the rubber thus keeping it from overstretching.

While last week’s mouthpiece was on the firmer side the mouth piece of the rubber ball gag is quite soft and easy to bite into yet firm enough that you can rest your teeth comfortably on it. It is covered in rubber so it has no problem with saliva or piss. Despite being sturdy 1mm thick rubber I would recommend not using this gag if you have any sharp edges on your incisors.

Detail of the Leather Reinforced Rivet

Detail of the Leather Reinforced Rivet

Playing with it

I got this gag during my trip to San Francisco in May 2013. I had the intention of buying the deluxe ball gag in the world and ended up buying this one despite the other one being an awesome ball gag!

Through the reviewing process of gags I found two types of gag users which I like to call bounds and biters. The bounds enjoy the feeling of something solid in their mouth. They want the feeling of their mouth being in bondage and thus a too soft material isn’t doing the trick. Biters on the other hand have a more practical approach: They enjoy the functional value of a gag (like silencing or drooling) but when they want to sink their teeth into something that gives in. Sadly gag, especially ball gags, with a soft mouth piece are hard to come by. Since I belong to the latter group I choose the rubber ball gag over the deluxe ball gag.

Detail of the Buckle with the Oil Tanned Leather Strap

Detail of the Buckle with the Oil Tanned Leather Strap

From a functional point of view this ball gag performs great: The mouth piece is firm enough to let your teeth rest on it comfortably and “encourages” drooling, yet soft enough to enable a satisfying bite. This gag come sadly only with a one size fits all mouth piece. It fits most people but for people with smaller mouths it has a bit of a stress bondage aspect despite being soft and for larger mouths it can feel lost a bit.

Because the strap is mounted on the far side of the flaps the gag can be worn for extended periods of time without any problems. This is also largely due to the softness of the leather which hugs almost hugs onto the skull. From a practical point of view the rubber is easy to disinfect and because the flaps go way over the corners of the subs mouth the leather won’t come into contact with saliva.

Conslusion: Good, low maintenance ball gag with soft mouth piece
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Soft mouth piece with right degree of firmness Only one size Mr S $39
Comfortable to wear for long periods of time
Easy to clean

On Trying to Order a “custom” Surf Suit from Rubber Bob

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The first piece of rubber I ever got was a size M surf suit from Blackstyle. When I got it, it fitted quite ok but over the last 2 ½ year I got a bit beefier around the chest and shoulders and sadly a bit wider around the belly. I also got used to color on my latex pieces and since an all-black cat suit as a basic piece is planned to come in 2014 I decided to get myself a new surf suit.

With money being a bit tight as a student (I know I should spend less on toys and more on gear) I looked for alternatives to the great yet more expensive German manufacturers. Rubberbob.co.uk was recommended to me by a bunch of my British Twitter followers. They told me he made basic pieces in good quality for great prices. When I first visited his website I was kind of… surprised by the layout and product pictures. Apparently the website is 13 years old. But if the quality of his products is up-to-date I do not really care about the business’ public appearance. Clicking through his offering I found that surf suits are called “Andy Style” and that you can e-mail them for custom modifications. So I got in touch with him in late October asking about a surf suit with a yellow zipper, two yellow stripes and yellow piping in 0.6mm black latex. As expected due to his focus on basic pieces the colored zipper and the piping weren’t possible. Due to the upcoming Christmas season I didn’t pursue getting a new surf suit any further.

On Wednesday I had a friend over for tea, put him into my rubber surf suit and he loved the look and the feel of rubber yet didn’t want to spend as much on his first piece as I did. Meanwhile I made plans to attend a rubber U35 piss party at the beginning or March in Karlsruhe which gave me a reason to get a new surf suit. So today I got in touch again with Bob this time asking if I could get two yellow stripes on the side and 5 instead of 3 runners on the zipper. He replied that the suit is made out of 0.45mm rubber, only comes with one yellow stripe and that no additional runners can be added. Since runners are easily added in Germany and I can live with one stripe I inquired if I could get the suit made out of 0.6mm rubber for of cause a higher price. He replied that he wishes me best of luck in finding a manufacturer that would match my requirements which left my kind of puzzled: Maybe I am spoiled by the waste amount of options I get offered for example when I am at RubAddiction, Rubber Factory or Blackstyle but simply taking a thicker rubber sheet and charging more for it is in my opinion not a crazy or difficult to fulfill task. So in the end I will probably keep my Blackstyle surf suit or turn to China and see if they are as good or as bad (depending on the source) as the internet claims they are.

Buyers Guide to Restraints

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About every other week I get a message asking me about different aspects of choosing the right restraints. So in order to get back into writing articles, I condensed the collected answers into this piece. If you feel something is missing or have a recommendation, feel free to send me an e-mail.

 

Materials

Restraints can be made out of any material that is somewhat soft and can withstand force. Because of that I will only cover the most common ones you will come across in most stores. Some special kind of restraints like Segufix or everything only made out of metal will probably be featured in a future article.

Leather

It is the most common material to make restraints out of. It is very durable if taken correct care off, will withstand force and is soft and gentle to the skin – if you take the right leather. The right leather means a more softer (and mostly thinner) hide on the inside (mostly calf, lamb or fine cow) and a thicker, sturdier hide on the outside (mostly cow, bull, swine, but also kangaroo or buffalo).

Leather Restraints

Leather Restraints

I would advise you not to be doing too much of kinky on a budget when purchasing leather restraints. First they are an investment that will stay with you for many years and you will use in almost every scene, secondly in recent years east Asian manufacturers discovered the kink market. Their quality of products ranges from shocking to fairly decent. The biggest issue with any leather toys from Asia are that most hides are treat with chemicals like Chromium to save time and money. You will most likely wear this kind of leather on your bare skin which can lead to allergies. And unlike jeans p.e. you can’t wash restraints 10 times in order to get the chemicals out of there. This will not be the case with every leather toy you will get from East Asia but it is something to keep in mind, especially when you shop around on eBay. I would always recommend investing a few bucks more and support a local dealer who knows where is products come from.

Fabric

Most fabric restraints are made out of nylon but I have seen cotton, canvas and even cevlar ones. They are lighter and smaller than leather restraints and are mostly on the lower end of the price range. This makes them good for starters or if you want to keep a little emergency set in your toy box just in case you forget you bondage bag. Depending on the material they are really easy to clean and disinfect.

Rubber

There are two types of rubber restraints out there: the one made out of soft latex that is also used on fetish wear and thicker, harder rubber (in Germany we call them „old tires“).

As much as I love rubber as a material general speaking but for a few exceptions rubber restraints are not made for hard play. You can restrict movement with them but if someone really struggles or fights against them, they will probably break (I have destroyed three pairs so far in my BDSM career). The thicker rubber ones are able to withstand more force but are also stiffer. You can find them for little money on eBay but most of the time they just cut rubber mats in stripes and added a few metal piece. But due to being stiff the edges are hard and can cause bruises when struggling in them. If you purchase such restraints in a dedicated kink store the edges will most likely be deburred which makes them less harmful but they still won’t be comfortable.

If you want more comfortable rubber restraints go for the latex ones. They are as soft as any rubber attire piece. Sadly the comfort is traded in for durability. The manufacturers try to deal with the issue by putting fabric tape between two layers of latex. I am definitely not the strongest sub in the world and a layer of fabric tape between two layers of 0.9mm of latex didn’t stop me from tearing them apart. I have talked to my local kink master mind at Demask in Dortmund and he told me that Kevlar as a fabric is really the only way to make durable simple rubber restraints. But Kevlar is a difficult material to work with as is rubber and latex overall. Thus the prices for rubber restraints are rather high compared to leather ones. However there is a big benefit with rubber restraints: unlike leather they can get a dirty and wet as you want them to be. So if you want to restrain yourself or your sub in the piss area (or nastier places…), I would advise using rubber or…

Neoprene

There a number of different neoprene variants out there all of which I have seen turned into restraints. Covering every one would be too much for this article so please check at Wikipedia which one works best for you. All kinds of neoprene are sturdier than rubber and can deal with dirty, wetness and can deal fairly well even with oils so they are the material you want to use in a gunge or oil scene.

 

Construction

Restraints consist of a body and depending on the closing mechanism also a strap.

The body is the part you wrap around the part of the sub’s body you want to restrain.

There are three ways to construct a body:

  1. One piece non-folded: In this case the body is made out of one piece of sturdy (and hopefully somewhat comfy) leather. When purchasing make sure that the edges are not sharp so there is no injury possibility.

    Fold

    Trice Folded Leahter Restraint

  2. One piece folded: A folded one piece is made of a single piece of mostly a bit softer leather folded at least once so on one side you have a piping-like edge. The other side can feature a piping which is not really necessary when the leather is soft enough. Because a piping is always thicker than just a fold the restraint might look a bit imbalanced with piping just on one side. You will find a seam around the open side, good folded restraints also have a seam on the fold for added stability.
  3. Two pieces: Most leather restraints are a two piece construction with stiffer leather on top and softer leather (or fleece, fur, suede etc. as lining) on the inside. Between these layers padding can be added. Padding does not only make restraints more comfortable for long term wearing, they also can create pressure without cutting circulation when you tighten the restraints using a buckle (see below). Since you have two more or less stiff leather edges, good two piece restraints have a piping running around them to make them smoother. The advantage of piping is that it can be made in a different color this bringing a bit more color into your play bag or displaying your hanky.
Padding

Padding on a Leather Restraint

Straps, buckles, D-rings, etc. are mostly held in place by rivets holding down a leather strap (I have seen them sewed down but I strongly believe that just some thread holding down a d-ring a sub is pulling isn’t a good solution). With every construction but the one piece non-fold it is a personal or design decision if you want the counter part of the rivet touching your skin. Since the rivets are mostly made out of stainless steel there is no medical issue with them touching the skin, but the sensation at least at the beginning is a bit different since they are colder and harder than the surrounding leather. Because of that

most of the time the counterparts are put between two layers of leather or below the padding (a prominent example where it isn’t the case are the Mr S Fetters USA Padded Locking Restraints).

 

Closing

The most common method to close a restraint is using a strap with different types of clasps:

  1. Roller Buckle on a two piece Leather Restraint with Piping

    Roller Buckle on a two piece Leather Restraint with Piping

    Buckle: Probably the most traditional closing method that works like a belt. Good buckles have a roller buckle which makes pulling the strap through the buckle more easily. The hole spacing determines how accurately you can adjust the restraints. If the strap is made out of more than one piece of leather the holes should be reinforced by metal rings so that the pin won’t accidently harm the edges of the hole. This is not necessary if you use a locking restraints with eyelets because the “pin” is round and smooth (see below).

  2. Double D-ring: On the end of the strap there are two d-ringthrough which you thread the strap.The advantage of this kind of mechanism is that the restraints can be adjusted steplessly.
Bail closing with a 20mm padlock

Bail closing with a 20mm padlock

Not a clasp but still requiring a strap are bails. The strap has slots punched into it where you pull the bails through. In order to fix the restraints, you can use a carabiner or a padlock. Since the hole distance is mostly the same than with a buckle strap this kind of restraint is as tight as a buckle one but faster and locking. But you always need some hardware to close it.

If you don’t want to deal with a strap there are some restraints out there using (industry grade) Velcro. The advantage of Velcro is that it is easy to handle, steplessly adjustable and gives especially the newbie a sense of security (if something goes wrong, just pull it open).

 

Attachment Points

Once you have put the restraints on, you need to attach them to something in order to restrict the restraint person’s movements. I have seen restraints with just a leather loop sewed to the restraints. I am not really convinced that this will work because leather stretches out and as written under construction I don’t trust threads with holding down power subs. In my opinion the only real deal are D-rings. Most of them are made out of metal but I have seen ones made out of plastic. Because nowadays there are some amazing kinds of strong and durable kinds of plastic out there, I can’t really say anything against them. But I haven’t tried them out; if you have experience with restraints with plastic D-rings, please contact me.

D-Ring hold in place by rivets

D-Ring hold in place by rivets

The majority of metal D-rings are made out of stainless steel so they won’t break – if they are welded. In order to save money I have seen non-welded ones (on the bottom there is a little gap instead of a weldseam). If the force pulling on the D-ring is always directly opposite of the gap, this is no problem. But in most situation the force will pull on one or the other end thus pulling the D-ring open!

Regarding the number of D-rings that is really a personal choice. For “basic” restraints like wrist and ankle one D-ring per restraint is enough, but p.e. for a thigh restraint I would want at least three. General speaking more is better when it comes to the number of D-rings because it gives you more pervy options.

 

Locking

I know off two ways of building in a locking option into a restraint: the eyelet way and the Mr S way (I call it that way because I have only seen it used on restraints by Mr S). When using the eyelet way there is a small eyelet inside the pin of the buckle where you put a padlock through. The eyelet is usually big enough for a 20mm padlock.

Locking Buckle with Eyelet

Locking Buckle with Eyelet

The big downside of this method is that through the eyelet the pin gets fairly wide thus the holes in the strap have to be larger and can’t be reinforced by rivets. The last point is only a style thing: there is less metal on the restrains and the belt should be made out of a single piece of thick leather (s.o.). The first point is influencing play because due to the larger holes you can’t close the restraints in as fine pitches as with a normal pin buckle.

Mr S has found a solution for that: they take a normal pin buckle and put a stud with an eyelet behind the buckle. Once you have closed the strap in the buckle you fix the buckle in place over the stud and put a 20mm padlock inside the eyelet. Through this combination you can adjust the restraints finely and still lock it.

 

Types of restraints

Most people think of the leather cuffs for wrists and ankles when they hear restraints. But there are a lot of other cuffs out there so you can create a Segufix-like full body suspension: Cuffs for thighs, upper arms and belts for chest and hips. And for special purpose´s there are a ton of different special restraints out there like:

This list makes no claim of being complete because there are a lot of pervy minds out there creating new and exciting kink gear every day.

 

What restraints should I buy?

I have written this article to give a short (and probably incomplete) overview what aspects of a restraint impacts the play so you can make a decision what you want to look for when you shop around for restraints.

Double D-ring

Double D-ring

In my opinion even if you are a rope top you should at least have a pair of wrist and ankle restraints just in case you want to quickly suspend someone. If you are a sub you should own the perfect (and perfectly fitting!) restraints you want to have used on you so there is not disappointment when the top wants to restrain you and his don’t fit.

What specific restraints I would recommend really depends on your budget. You can get a pair of high quality leather restraints for around 50€ (like mine from McHurt), if you can deal with the uncertainty of the way the hides have been treated, pick up the ones from The Anubis Pack because you get entire basic set plus thigh restraints and collar for £56.If money isn’t really an issue I would recommend the locking restraints from Fetters USA from Mr S. I brought them over from the US for a friend of mine, they are great manufacturing and leather quality , are locking and have to D-rings, basically anything I would want in a pair of restraints but that comes with a price: $129.95 for the wrist restraints, $139.95 for the ankle restraints. What I would always recommend is going to your local kink store, try them out, get an experts opinion and buy what you feel comfortable with.

 

If you have any further question, you can always write me an e-mail, send me a tweet @ToyTorture or hit me up on Recon or PlanetRomeo at ToyTorture.

Mister B Padded Rubber Restraints

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613120

Last weekend I was in Karlsruhe at the Mister RubClub contest. It was a great event and I had loads of fun playing with a newbie. However, I learned that I am missing an important piece in my gear collection: Piss-proof restraints.

Leather doesn’t really like piss, but luckily there are a number of different materials out there: Neoprene, Velcro and rubber. Neoprene isn’t really my kink, it takes some effort to get the piss washed out of Velcro so that leaves rubber. Sadly rubber isn’t really made for hard playing. Most rubber restraints are either made out of the thick, hard kind of rubber with mostly sharp edges (in Germany we call them old tire rubber) or the softer one latex gear is made out of. That particular rubber looks great but when made out of two layers with fabric in between for reinforcement it is too weak – at least for my kind of BDSM. So finding the right kind of restraint for the piss AND pain pig in me is kind of hard.

Luckily Mister B offers just the right kind of restraints: On the outside is sturdy, reinforced rubber with rivets holding the D-rings in place, the belt loops are also reinforced with metal and on the inside there is thick padding beneath soft rubber which guarantees long term comfort when playing or even just wearing. Since they restraints come with different piping colors you can eve wear them as accessories or hankies. If I remember it correctly Mister B was also making matching collars reading “Piss Pig”, “Fuck Toy”, etc. but I can’t find them on their website anymore. You might need to ask your local Mister B dealer or contact them directly if you want one.

However, there is a downside with these restraints: The price. The pair of wrist restraints cost 105€, the pair of ankle restraints 112,50€. For the effort and difficulty of making theses restraints it is a good price point but sadly still too much to make me pick one up when I drool over them at their Berlin store or Dortmund’s in store boutique. So if anyone is looking for a belated Christmas or New Year present, please feel free to hit me up.

Christmas Gift Tip II: SeriousToyS Rubber Sarcophagus

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SeriousToyS Rubber Sarcophagus without a person inside

SeriousToyS Rubber Sarcophagus with the sub placed inside ready for the air to be sucked out

I have been in a bunch of crazy and intense bondage device but when I recently strolled through my local kink store Demask Dortmund I was amazed when I saw this piece of dungeon furniture: A rubber sarcophagus. It is basically two rubber bags filled with pellets connected with a run-around zipper. You lie down between the bags, wiggle around to create a bit of space around you and suck the air out of both chambers. The feeling afterwards is a bit like being restrained between big packs of vacuum packed coffee beans. Depending on the space you have created before the air got sucked out you can move a bit but not much (definitely too little to work pain out, at least for me…). The feeling of confinement isn’t as strict as being in a vacuum bed or cube but the upside it that there isn’t constant pressure on your thorax so in theory you can stay inside the sarcophagus indefinitely long. But despite other vacuum dungeon furniture the material gets compact and stable enough to support an average weight person to stand or sit on it. To make the time inside a bit more interesting there are access points for the genitals, nipples and the head.

The surface pattern once the air is sucked out

The sub ecapsulated inside the rubber sarcophagus

Due to being a kind of sarcophagus the guys at Demask Dotmund went for an Egyptian inspired design but since it is build to order rubber color and trim can be customized. You can order this bespoken dungeon furniture via e-mail. Price upon request.

Update 01/15/2014:

I have just gotten a mail from the guys at Demask in Dortmund: This specific sarcophagus has been sold. If you still want one, get in touch with them. It will be made to your speficications which include size, rubber color and trim as well as the number and position of access points.

 

Rubber 101

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About the material

The basic material of rubber is natural rubber which is harvested in form of latex milk from rubber trees (hevea brasiliensis). When drying this milk turns into natural latex. However in this form you can’t work with the material because it is very sticks, breaks under cold and will disintegrate under heat. In order to turn the latex milk into a usable material a process called vulcanization is applied to the latex using sulfur, pressure and heat. During this process the white latex turns yellow due to the heat and the sulfur. If another color is desired pigments are added during the vulcanization.

Material properties

Generally speaking rubber is a very fragile and demanding material.

Latex milk consists of long polymer chains with free molecule endings. This “free” ends will join with the sulfur inside the material under heat and pressure but will stay free on the surface. Usually oxygen will dock on these ends causing redox which will change to color of the latex or can even destroy it (how to prevent this later on when I talk about taking care of you rubber). Also this effect is responsible of the friction when you put on a rubber piece.

Other harmful influences are ozone and UV-light, reactive metals like silver and cooper, plastificantes, oils and fats (this includes deodorant and perfume!) except silicone oil and great force.

On the plus side there is the flexibility and high thermal conductivity. But rubber mustn’t be overstretched because than it will not return to its original form.

The thrill of rubber gear

I am often asked what attracts me to rubber. There are a bunch of different factors. First there is the smell, than there is the touch of the surface, the feeling of the material tightly wrapping around your body. It is hard to put into words why rubber is something special. At best try it on at a local fetish dealer and find out for yourself.

Why is rubber gear so expensive?

Until the 1980s rubber was widely used in hospitals for various purposes like mattress covers or catheter because it was an easy to clean and quite robust material. But with the availability of cheap one-time products the demand for sheets of rubber decreased rapidly. Nowadays sheets of rubber which are suitable for skin contact and well made enough for lasting long are nearly exclusively made for the performing arts and fetish industry which leads to smaller quantities being made and thus increased price.

With its elastic properties rubber is a material which can only be processed by hand so there is a large chunk of manual labor cost in the price which can hardly be driven down with scale effects. Add to that the usual pervert’s mark up and you end with the price of rubber gear.

How rubber gear is made

There are two major ways of making rubber gear: gluing and dipping. For dipping you dip a form p.e. for gloves, simple shirts or a mask into liquid latex, get it out and let it dry. The advantage of this the speed large numbers of items can be made but it is very hard to create an even material thickness.

For any larger and more complex items like suits, multicolor shirts, etc. the sheets of rubber are cut into pieces using patterns and glued together. There are manufacturers who sew rubber together but since this will cost elasticity I would not recommend it.

Another non industrial way of making gear is using liquid latex. You apply the liquid on the body and let it dry a little bit. This can be a nice and very sensual experience especially when done together but make sure that the body area is completely hairless! Otherwise you will rip them out when pulling the rubber off.

Choosing a Style

You can have nearly everything wearable made out of rubber starting with everyday attire over special play wear like suits with codpieces and zippers on important places up to super hero costumes. Since everybody has a different kind and preference I will not recommend something here. However I heavily advise you to not order your first piece over the internet without trying it on! On the one hand some things look better on you in your fantasy than in reality and it sometimes can be quite shocking when you wear your dream piece and it looks horrible on you. On the other hand normal clothes sizes don’t transfer one to one into rubber gear sizes. Depending on the effect you want to achieve – ranging from loose casual fit to skintight – you will need to find the right size for you which again can be a pleasant surprise (when you need an S instead of you usual L) or shocking (XL pants due to your thighs instead of M).

Choosing the Right Material Thickness

This is a tricky decision. Rubber clothing comes in material thicknesses between 0,18mm and 1,6mm which leaves you with a lot of choices.  The thinner the rubber, the better it will wrap around your body and the more you will feel touch through it. Also, thinner rubber is cheaper. However: It will tear more easily when you get stuck on something like p.e. a corner of the bar counter.

Thicker rubber is sturdier; when wearing it you feel the material presence much more and when you go beyond 1mm thickness on a made to measure piece the pressure it applies to your body can be an own kind of sensation during a bondage scene. Also I have made the experience that the thicker the rubber the more intense is the smell but that might be subjective.

But sturdiness can cause problems. The thicker the material to more draft is applied on the glue seams which are more likely to give in when moving a lot or with a lot of force.

Using Rubber

Due to the material properties it can be hard to get into rubber because it will stick to your skin. To prevent this use talc powder or silicon oil on the inside. Both will create a non-stick layer on the rubber. Also silicon oil is used to give the rubber the nice shiny look many rubber fetishists find attractive.

When playing in rubber mind the material properties. Too much draft will cause rips or hurt the glue seams. You will soon get a feeling what you can or can’t do in your gear.

Taking care of your rubber gear

As written above, rubber is a material which needs a bit of care.

Storing Rubber

Rubber is best stored in a dark place on a clothes hanger made out of plastic to prevent exposition to UV light and keep it from getting wrinkles. If you have gotten wrinkles into your gear try a mild dryer program. Sometimes this will get them out. To prevent it from redoxing soak it in silicone oil about once a month. Because especially thin rubber tends to stick together apply talc powder inside and outside on your gear.

Washing Rubber

After each usage wash your rubber with warm water and some form of soap. But yet again, make sure that you don’t use something with oils or perfume in it. The most basic curd soap, non-sented detergents or hyper allergic washing gel are good. There is a special rubber washing solution called Hexi Blue available which was once made for hospitals and is now nearly only used for fetish purposes. It has a bit of silicone oil in it so it keeps you from soaking your gear in it. However Hexi Blue is quite expensive and hard to get.

What if I am a lazy boy?

There is a solution for dealing with the stickiness and partly with the aging and the washing. You can chlorinate the rubber so that the oxygen on the free ends is replaced with chlorine. This will cost you a bit of latex smell for the first months and will alter the feeling a bit since it doesn’t stick to your skin anymore but has the advantage that you can put your rubber on like a cotton shirt, it will not age as rapidly as unhandled gear and doesn’t need instant washing after sessions or stuff put on it for storage. Also you don’t have to soak it in silicone oil as often as normal rubber.

Regulation Rubber Flogger

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As a rubber fetist myself I sometimes find the dominance of leather in the kinky scene annoying especially when it comes to toys. Of cause, leather is the ideal material for many purposes but nevertheless when you are into the feel and the smell of latex nothing else will do. So I am always happy to find a toy made out of rubber.

A few weeks ago a friend of mine told me about the rubber flogger from Regulation which he tried out in London. Being into rubber himself he was delighted by the smell and feeling and amazed by the build quality. Even though rubber isn’t as strong as leather this flogger will probably be good enough for a strong and serious flogging session. And serious it will be due to the rubber being softer than other rubber flogger but as an artificial material it is still harder with sharper edges than a soft leather flogger.

The flogger comes in various color variations and costs £99 each at the time of the publishing of this article.

Mister Chaps Rubber Ball Stretcher

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Vendor: Mister Chaps

First Impression and construction

In order to make my toy collection grow I made it a rule to buy a toy on every larger city trip. So a few years ago on a trip to Hamburg I bought myself this ball stretcher, actually my first rubber piece and to date is one of the few ball stretcher made of rubber I have come across. Since I had a few problems with ball stretchers in the past (as you might read in future reviews) I asked the sales assistant which model would be right for me and I ended up with the 4,5cm model. It is made out of 3mm thick rubber and has two pairs of snap fastener thus allowing choosing between 3,5cm and 4,2cm diameter. The buttons are mounted quite well onto the rubber and close firmly so this stretcher will not fall off by incedent. The first thing I realized when unpacking the stretcher were the undeburred edges.

Playing with it

Once you get in on, the stretcher does what it was designed to do: Transform your balls into a tight pack far away from the body. When you come your balls are pulled tightly to your body but since the stretcher prevents them from doing so it takes longer for you to reach an orgasm and they are more intense. Also a ball stretcher provide a neat handle for holing your balls when they get spanked and single balls can’t escape more or less targeted hit. So when playing with yourself or being a sub, a ball stretcher improves your sex life both in vanilla and amarogentin ways 😉

This is if you can get it on. Since I couldn’t find any ball stretcher in the market which fit my balls, I asked my doctor if I have a tight or in any other way strange ball sack. The only thing he could find out was that it was slightly looser (!) than average so I usually should not have any problems with normal ball stretchers. Well… with this one as with any other ball stretcher I have great difficulties to fit my balls inside even though it was sold to me as a beginner model. The tight snapping buttons make it a bit worse because it takes a lot of coordination and patience to close the stretcher once you got your balls tightly stretched, especially when you have got a hard-on.  This can be very annoying.

Undeburred edges

Undeburred edges

What is even more annoying or outright dangerous are the undeburred edges. Thick, inflexible rubber is very sharp and it shows when wearing this stretcher. I was once determined to try out me newest acquisition put it on and jerked off which was an unpleasant feeling during the wanking and left me with a wound on my shaft. If you are skilled and have the right tools you can deburr it but since that is out of my reach it is a nice thing which lies around in my toy drawer.

Conclusion

Good when looking for a full rubber experience but needs conditioning before use.

Pros

  • Inexpensive
  • Needed for a full rubber outfit

Cons

  • Undeburred edges

Price at date of Publishing: about 8€