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Unboxing Additional Components of the VAST Breathing System

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Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

In June I unboxed my MASSIVE order of the VAST Breathing System. It is a cool system, but did not really work with my already modified FM12. Way back in 2015 I modified my gasmask to allow rebreathing with two bags so air flows in and out through both sockets. So I asked the guys at VAST if they could develop a screw-in one-way valve – and along the process ordered some other new stuff from their line.

So this is my highlight of the order: A hose with an integrated one-way valve!

This way I can finally use my already modified gasmask with the breather system. Of course, I could have used the Upgrade Kit for AVON respirators but at the moment I am still having a hard time “sacrificing” one of my few, valuable S10 or FM12 to modify them so heavily.

Second highlight is the Switch. As the name says, it is an easy to turn switch between two air intakes. This is a really useful addition because now I can quickly switch between clean air or forced sniffing/ bubbling/ air reduction.

Like all larger elements of the Breathing systems it comes in a cool wooden box with foam cut-outs for easy storage. Included is silicone grease to keep the mechanic smooth and plastic care. Speaking of plastic, this is from the “new”, final production run which comes in dark, matt plastic instead of the blue one my early adopter parts were made out.

There are also two new sniffing or poppers toy out there. The larger one is the Vaporizer. Like the name implies, it is like the Vaporizer with Switch just without the switch. With this toy you are forced to sniff the odor continuously. The container is large enough to hold a jockstrap or dirty sock too.

The smaller one called Inhaler features an interesting design of air inlet and diffusion holes below a GM40 thread. It can be easily attached to any gas mask with 40mm thread but the short tube is also perfect for sticking your nose in for easy, low risk inhaling. The perfect combination in my opinion is attaching it to the Medical Face Mask with a Mask Splitter. Just push it into your (or your bottom’s) face and the person below will only inhale the vaporizing fumes from the container.

The last items are “housekeeping”: For very complex setups I needed an additional T– and Y-splitter. And hoses! You cannot have enough hoses when playing with this system. Currently I am still in the middle of the reviewing process and I am not sure you need more of shorter or longer hoses. But with hoses in 42cm, 38cm, 30cm, 26cm, 21cm, 20cm, 18cm, 14cm and 9.5cm lengths you should be covered regardless how you play.

The review will probably follow in the second half of September. So watch this space when you are interested in this kind of play.

Superior Latex Restraints (& Harnesses)

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The VAST Superior Latex Bondage Gear

Vendor: VAST

Construction

These restraints are standard cuff-style restraints. The body is 69mm wide and slightly convex. The wrist restraint body it is 220mm long, the ankle one is 320mm. Onto the body a 40mm wide belt is attached using four pairs of rivets. When the restraints are lying down, the belt bends slightly upwards. This is the “extra length” needed to comfortably wrap the restraints around the sub’s body. Between two rivet pairs a D-ring is housed. On the left side the belt ends in a roller buckle, on the other side it tapers for easy threading.

There are seven holes with 10mm spacing between the centers. The material and bonding is so strong and perfect, these restraints do not need the belt hole reinforcement rivets common on other pieces of rubber restraints (which are a pain in the ass when bending or falling out). The first hole is 75mm away from the belt tip. Due to this even in the largest setting, the belt tip goes fully through the belt loop.

For extra security you can order the restraints with a locking pin for an additional 20€. These restraints come with a two locks which look nice but can be picked with a paperclip. As always I recommend investing keyed alike, non-bras (!) locks like from ABUS or Master for your play.

The Wrist and Ankle Restraints with the Anatomically Curvature

As the name of the toy already indicates, it is made out of latex. Unlike other rubber restraints which rely on thick and stiff industrial rubber, VAST’s Superior Latex is made out of two layers of 0.8mm thick soft and smooth garment latex glued on top of a strap of aramid. So the material combines the softness of thin latex usually used to make fetish wear with the high strength of aramid. Being made out of standard 4D latex the restraints smell SO good and delicious like rubber gear shoud!

All trim like rivets, buckles, D-rings or the locking pin are made out of stainless steel. This is important because stainless steel is the only metal (well, except platinum, gold or aluminum…) which does not chemically react with rubber. This reaction, commonly called “latex cancers” makes the material soft and gooey and ultimately over time will make the material tear. Because all trim is made out of stainless steel, the restraints will withstand heavy use for many years. Stainless steel is also important because due to the design, the rivets touch the skin. Other materials could cause allergies but with stainless steel you are 99.9% safe.

Detail of the Logo and Stitching Laser Engraving

The restraints can be ordered in a wide range of different designs. The most simple is of course a single color followed by different colors on the outside and the inside or a different colored strap. There are two strip options: Either a thick stripe in the middle, slightly bigger than the belt holes or the thin stripe running 10mm inside around the belt (the option I chose for my restraints). Colorwise you can choose from the 4D Rubber range of 80 different shades to match your other gear or show your fetish by choosing a hanky color. Of course, they don’t have all colors in stock but can order them.

A nice design touch is a laser-engraved band of small lines which runs around every pieces of rubber, even the belt loop. This creates the look of stitching. Despite not adding anything functional to the restrains, it is a great design feature that adds to the overall high quality look and appeal of the restraints. Since they do the laser-engraving themselves you can customize the gear with your own tests, logos, etc..

These many customizing options mean of course that there is little to no stock. When friends ordered their harnesses and restraints it took about two weeks for their set to me made. So like with all (custom) rubber gear, plan a little bit ahead when you want it for a specific event like Folsom for example. If you want a combination or customization that’s not on your website, send them an e-mail.

Detail of the D-ring

Playing with the Superior Latex Restraints

Being standard cuff-style restraints, they are a good basis for almost every non-rope bondage layout. They are easy to handle and fetter the sub securely. You can really tell that they have been designed by perverts for perverts. With two D-rings you can easily brace the restraints in an elaborate rope or tension strap layout. The slightly convex design of the restraint body hugs the joint anatomically correct. The tapered tip of the belt makes threading it through the roller buckle and the belt loop quick and easy.

So far, they behave like every other leather and rubber restraint I have reviewed on this website. But due to being made out of soft latex they are the most flexible and tightest closable restraints in my collection. Since two layers of 0.8mm thick latex are glued together they have just the right level of stiffness to not flap or wobble around. The edges are not deburred but straight cut. Unlike with thick industrial rubber this is not a problem. None of my testees and friends who have been using Superior Latex gear for quite some time now encountered chafing on the skin or scratches on rubber gear from these restraints. Even when the sub is struggling hard, the restraints are detaining him without digging into the flesh. All things considered, they are comfortable and secure over extended periods of time.

The Tapered Tip of the Belt Threaded through The Belt Loop

Speaking of struggling hard, the restraints can take a beating. I have fettered subs who are notorious for trashing bondage gear in them and they still look like new. To really test them, I attached my suspension harness to them and put a sub in it. Another top friend incorporated them into a suspension bondage layout.  These are borderline cases and you should at least try the latter two not at home if you are not very versed in suspension bondage. But these little experiments show how strong these restraints really are.

The friends who have ordered these restraints all bought the locking versions. Once locked around the wrist and ankles of a full rubber gimp, he cannot take his gear off anymore and is encapsulated in his rubber prison. While this of course can also be done with locking leather restraints, being made out of shiny latex they do not obstruct the sleek, polished look of a rubber gimp but blend into it. When I got mine, the locking option was not available yet so my restraints are not lockable (early adopter problem). But since the premium is so little, I would always recommend getting to lockable version!

The Roller Buckle

Being made out of latex, this bondage gear requires the same care as every piece of rubber gear. Rubber is easily damaged by oils like in perfume and fat. So do not expose this gear to Crisco for example. Since human skin has a slight layer of oils and fat, you need to wash the restraints after putting them on bare skin (that being said, full rubber gimps with gloves do not have to do this ;)). I recommend special rubber detergent like VAST’s Wonder Wash for this but you can also use dish soap as long as it is not moisturizing or scented! Afterwards let it dry to avoid mold and treat it with silicone oil to care for the material and make it shiny. The gear should be stored in a dark, not too hot place.

Currently, these restraints are only available for neck, wrists and ankles. Hopefully in the (near) future the product range will be extended at least to biceps and thigh restraints (and maybe a fashionable thin biceps strap with small effect D-rings because even the smoothest of upper arm restraints is constraining when punch fisting someone…).

The Bulldog Harness on me

Superior Latex Harnesses

There is however a product category which borders restraints: Harnesses. If you have been following this website for some time, you know that I do not recommend fetish gear/ wear because which cut & fit turns somebody on is highly individual. However, I am going to make an exception here. Especially since a harness is only half fetish fashion accessory, half handle a top can grab to pull a sub towards him or hold onto while railing a bottom HARD.

For years I have been looking for a rubber bulldog harness. Since latex and rubber are fragile materials, none of the options available spoke to me. But I also do not like to mix leather and rubber, so wearing one of my leather ones wasn’t an option. Luckily VAST also makes three different harness designs in their Superior rubber: A classic bulldog (my favorite), a pet walking harness with a BIG d-ring for attaching a leash on the back and finally a Y-harness, perfect for attaching pieces of the Breather system to it or with a bit of rope (or tensions straps) to tie a torso down.

As I have written, style and fit preferences are highly individual. But if you are in the market for a heavy duty, intense play withstanding rubber harness, give them a try (on)!

Personally, I was surprised how well both bulldog and Y-harness looked on my body. When I have bought my first leather harness, I tried eight different ones before finding one that looked good on me…

Conclusion: Strongest, most flexible and customizable rubber bondage gear on the market.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Extremely strong yet comfortable to wear Limited range of restraints (for the moment) Wrist Restraints Starting at 119€
Ankle Restraints Starting at 124€
2 D-rings Collar Starting at 89€
High level of customizability Bulldog Harness Starting at 199€
Sleek design Y-Harness Starting at 199€
Pet Walking Harness Starting at 269€

Mako & Tiger Agitation Collar

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The 3“ Agitation Collar from Mako & Tiger

Sometimes I get the question if I knew toys to really HANDLE a sub. Especially in the aggro and prison play scene there is a demand for toys to grab the bottom/ brat/ resisting switcher or top and drag him to his knees, the dick or hold him down while destroying his ass. For this kind of scenes even a short leash will not do it because it has too much slack. There used to be a few gags with a grip in front but teeth are surprisingly frailer than you might expect. So they weren’t the best idea.

Collars with a handle have long been popular in dog training but to my surprise have not been adopted wildly into the kink world. One model that comes with high praise from friends but I have not yet had a chance to try out myself is the Agitation Collar from Mako & Tiger. When I studied in the USA some 9 years ago I had the pleasure of meeting Mako. He’s a heavy (bondage) player and thus knows how high quality gear needs to be designed for heavy scenes.

The Agitation Collars can be Locked using a Pad or a Segufix Lock

The body of this collar is made out of thick and sturdy bridle leather. Depending on the version it is either 50mm or 75mm tall. The latter can probably double a bit as a posture collar. The inside is lined with padding wrapped in soft garment leather for a comfortable fit. For quick and easy shackling the collar is adjusted and closed with a roller buckle. For secure collaring this piece of neck gear can be locked and comes with a Segufix option.

But the piece de resistance is the wide handle in the back of the collar. It is made out of the same bridle leather but friends who have been using this collar for quite some time now told me that is it treated with mink oil and thus comfortable to hold onto. My friends also tell me that the draft is distributed evenly even when tugging on the collar with force. The same should also apply when a leash is attached to the big d-ring which is laterally placed below the handle.

The Handle and D-Ring on the 3“ Agitation Collar

These are big claims which I look forward to test in a review in some point in time. This curiosity especially applies to the fact that there are no rivets used to construct this collar. Everything is “just” sown together which if done well is sufficient. I have already a heavily resisting bottom in mind to try this gear out on.

But for the moment I trust the recommendation I get from experienced, heavy duty players I have known for years. So when you are in the market for a strong, heavy duty collar with a grip to handle your sub, check out the Agitation Collar from Mako & Tiger. At $350 for the 2’’ version and $450 for the 3’’ version they are not inexpensive but from what I have been told worth every cent as gear that will last you for years of heavy play.

Cross Body Bondage Harness

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The Mr S Cross Body Bondage Harness

Vendor: Mr S Leather

This piece of gear is (probably) the final evolution of Mr S’ journey to see how much they can take away from a straight jacket and still acchieve stron fettering: They started out with a tradition straightjacket than came the Vector Bondage Sleeves and now we have ended with the Cross Body Bondage Harness. Let’s see if it performs as exceptional well as it’s bigger, bulkier brothers.

Construction

The core of this restraint are two welded, stainless steel o-rings connected by a short, sturdy strap of welded bridle leather. Onto each or-ring a 25mm wide and 60cm long bridle leather belt is riveted. They are closed using a roller buckle and the holes are punched from the tip down 37cm with 25mm spacing.

There is another 35cm long strap connected to each o-ring. Onto it a bondage mitt made out of soft yet thick, unlined garment leather is rivets. The mitts are large enough even for large paws. Subs up to glove size 13 have worn these comfortable in my playroom. The mitts are closed with yet another leather belt with a roller buckle and a locking pin. Sadly it does not come with locks. You need a standard 3mm wire strength lock this toy. A the plus side, it does not only house one but two d-rings.

The leather is the same as on all of the other Mr S bondage gear I have: Thick garment leather for the bodies and latigo leather for the straps. While the garment leather is the same as on every other toy that I own, the latigo was surprisingly stiff. Compared to other brands it is still quite soft and the edges are not firm or let alone sharp. But the straps are not as soft out of the box as on other toys from Mr S. Two things to consider: First, leather is a natural material and maybe the one strap my toy was made out of was stiffer. So there is a good chance a different toy will feel different.  Second, this did not mean that my toy was not usable right away. The straps were still softer and more flexible than from many other, high quality leather manufacturer. They just took longer to break in. If you have this toy, please let me know how your straps were out of the box.

The Mitt Part of the Cross Body Bondage Harness

Playing with the Cross Body Bondage Harness

First, let’s see how you can put these restraints on because this greatly influences the experience a lot.

As the name indicates, this is a body restraint: You place the o-ring connecting strap between the shoulder blades and put the mitts left and right of the neck to the front. First, put the left hand into the right mitt and the right hand into the left mitt. Leaving it just this way is the most comfortable way. To limit the movement more threat the belt through the corresponding D-ring on the mitt to tighten. For extra less leeway, thread the belt through both d-rings. For extra, straitjacket-like tightness, include the biceps in the fettering layout.

Especially in the latter setup, the bottom cannot move much. But if you want it tighter (and have additional straps like from other Mr S straitjackets), you can connect both mitts using a belt.  A borderline case for really thin and flexible bottoms is switching the restraint around and crossing the arms behind the back. Except for the most yoga affine twinks this is stress bondage. So do it carefully and ask the sub about his circulation in arms and hands on a regular basis!

The Roller Buckle and Locking Pin

When I first got these restraints, I was a bit skeptical: Do I need yet another body restraint from Mr S? The Vector Bondage Sleeves are perfect for me! They provide the same level of fettering as a straight jacket yet leave most of the body accessible for play. Ok, for travel they are still a bit bulky and the price is steep (yet well worth the money for me!). But what other experience would the Cross Body Bondage Harness offer?

Despite the small footprint they have one offer one of the best feats of straitjackets: The high adjustability of the intensity and feeling. The arms hanging down in front of the body is surprisingly comfortable. Crossing the arms is also a quite natural position and despite the mitts cuffs not being padded, the wrists don’t get tired hanging down. So like a straitjacket, the basic position is comfortable and can be maintained for extended periods of time. But you can easily make the bondage more intense and uncomfortably – just on a straitjacket. Unlike the straitjackets, the Cross Body Bondage Harness is a bit of a one trick pony since the basic position is only the same. But if this position works for you and your sub, this harness is great!

One of the O-Ring with the Three Belts Rivited onto it

This is especially true if you are big gear heads! Even more than with the Vector Straitjacket Sleeves, the Cross Body Bondage Harness covers less of the gear and thus doesn’t add heat – especially useful at events like Pride or Folsom. It also lets you display more of your gear while rendering the sub helpless. A demographic which preferred these restraints over straitjacket (sleeves) were bikers because apparently the arms hanging in a cross before the body is more comfortable in that gear.

Unlike most common straitjackets, these restraints are lockable. The locks are “only” on the mitts. But once the arms are crossed and the mitts are locked, you cannot get them off the subs. So like with every piece of lockable bondage gear, there “click” of the closing lock is a big mindfuck for many subs and hugh turn-on.

Speaking of gear head a common reader question regarding the Cross Body Bondage Harness was how it works with other pieces of bondage gear, especially collars and head gear.  The straps leading to the mitts run far enough left and right of the head and neck not interfere even with bulkier collars like a posture collar or gas masks and (motorcycle) helmets. It also allows good access to the neck to grab and drag the bottom.

The Two D-Rings per Mitt

Regardless if your sub is I heavy gear or you are like me and prefer your sub naked, this piece of bondage gear is good for leaving the lower torso exposed. The sub can easily and comfortably be bent over for getting fucked or spread his legs for getting his balls busted (or have his junk subjected to other forms of CBT). Due to the position of the mitts, the nipples are not really accessible well. The movement of the arms are not restricted enough to keep him from protecting them. A nimble subs can even push nipple clamps off though that process is going to be painful.

Since each mitt features two d-rings, the Cross Body Bondage Harness is somewhat good for tying someone down. With a bit of rope you can more or less effectively tie the upper torso to the bed. But that is not really what this toy is for. However the d-rings are enough and placed well enough to tie your boy to a post or bondage frame in a bar or bound him together with another sub.

Conclusion: The smallest footprint toy possible to get almost straitjacket light fettering.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Strong degree of bondage on small footprint Only one bondage position

Doesn’t come with locks

 Mr S Leather $189.95
Lockable
Two d-rings per mitt

 

Fetters Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

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The Fetters Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

Vendor: Regulation

Sometimes a review takes strange ways until it gets published here. Last week I have gotten a message asking for my opinion in these two toys. Having been using them for years, I wanted to send him the link to the corresponding review. But it turns out: Despite having been using them for years, I have never reviewed them! Let’s fix that!

Both Straps Unrolled

Construction

The design of the Scrotum Strap is quite simple: It is a 355mm long strap of belt leather. The lower 130mm length is 30mm wide, forming the body which then tapers to 220mm long and 15mm wide belt. Through the belt 7 holes with a 15mm center-to-center spacing are punched of which only 5 are usable. Onto the body a locking post and two 13mm wide d-rings under a slap of leather are riveted. Between the locking post and the first d-ring is a slot to thread the belt through. The Scrotum Strap comes with a pad lock.

The Sharp, Undeburred Edge of the Scrotum Strap

The basic design is also reflected in the material and manufacturing: The belt leather is stiff and neither burnished nor deburred. This means the edges are sharp until the leather is well worn in which will take quite a while. Since I rarely use the Scrotum Strap due to having several other toys to choose from, mine is still stiff and a bit sharp. If you want to speed up the breaking in-process, rub a little bit of neatsfoot oil on it and knead the toy while watching TV.

The Weight Anchor Strap borrows the basic design idea of the Scrotum Strap but develops it further. The body of the toy is made out of two layers of soft garment leather. The height depends on which version you get: The one buckle which I have has a 33mm tall body, the two buckle a 56mm tall one. On each side of the body a 180mm long and 14mm wide strap of belt leather is riveted. At the bottom a Ø19mm welded o-ring is riveted.

The Overlapping Body Protects Ball Skin from Getting Caught by the Belt

It is closed around the balls about the same way as the Scrotum Strap. On top of one strap a 240mm long and 14mm wide belt is riveted perpendicularly, while on top of the other a small roller buckle is. The belt goes through a slot inside the body and thus grips around the cuff wrapping around the sack’s neck.

Just like on the previous toy, the manufacturing is a bit basic: The perpendicular edges of the body is just bare cut-off leather without any treatment, the slot is not whipped. Since both toys are basic CBT toys you can overlook these shortcoming but considering the price compared to a set of cuff-style restraints I would have expected more.

Playing with the Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

The Padlock to Close the Scrotum Strap

As simple as the design is, it is ingenious: You wrap the body around the sack’s neck, thread the belt end through the slot and tighten it until you reach a snug yet comfortable fit. Then you thread the belt through the d-rings and close the toy by locking it onto the sub.

As long as the leather is not broken in, the adjustment process is cumbersome: Due to the stiffness it takes some adjustment to get it around the balls tightly. Threading it through the d-rings is a nightmare because of the friction. For me, this created a bit of a vicious cycle because I had easier to use toys which I then preferred and thus never broke the Scrotum Strap in.

This is a shame because it is a nifty little toy with much potential. The smallest diameter of it is 24mm, the largest 42mm so it covers a wide range of possible scrotums. As written above due to the position of the locking pin and one of the d-rings you cannot tighten it further than the third to last hole. A friend of mine has been using his Scrotum Strap for half a decade on a regular basis. It is broken in and thus soft. He uses it with some of his slave as a reminder of belonging by simply locking it around the balls for a day or so. Unlike a chastity cage, the Scrotum Strap will not impair any everyday activity but once locked cannot be taken off. So it is a nice, psychological reminder that someone else has control over you when a locked collar, wrist or ankle chain are not an option. If you are a bit of a sadist, locking the Scrotum Strap around your sub’s balls can speed up the breaking in process. The warmth and moisture of the junk in combination with the movement will soften the leather up over time. Until then, it will be uncomfortably to wear and create some abrasions and burns.

A Shackle can be Used to Increase the Capacity of the D-Ring

For more action oriented play, the Scrotum Strap is a secure and tight anchor point on the balls. So in a full body lockdown it can be used to tie even the balls in place. In more mobile settings, I like to connect the ankle restraints to it to restrict the sub’s movement. Of course this also works with wrist restraints but my favorite is connecting the Scrotum Strap with a Handlock for minimal slack wrist-to-ball restraints.

If you want to connect the Scrotum Strap with another restraint bear in mind since the belt is threaded through the d-rings the space between the apex and the belt is only 5mm! While this might be enough for a padlock, if you want to use carabiners use them together with shackles. Another alternative are folded nylon tension straps.

The O-Ring at the Bottom of the Anchor Staps

The Weight Anchor Strap attaches to the body the same ways as the previous toy: Thread the belt through the slot and around the body to the roller buckle. Since there is not friction and the ball cuff’s body is made out of soft leather that easily wraps around the scrotum, this is quite easy. On this toy you can use all the punched holes creating a internal diameter between 27mm and 42mm. If your sub has smaller or less meaty balls, you can punch additional holes to tighten the restraint even further. For meatier balls, you have to just give it a try since the body is very soft and only stiff in the middle where the belt runs around, I managed to put the toys even on bull balls.

The softness in combination with the wide range of adjustability enables a really secure fit that is comfortable over extended periods of time even the tug on the toy is big. As the name of the toy suggests, it is made for weights. Most people use parachutes for this kind of play but they are only good for so much pulling force. If you add a momentum by letting the weight swing, the snap fastener either pops open or a ball slips through the thin ring the parachute creates. This does not happen with the Weight Anchor Strap. Since it comfortably yet securely compresses the ball’s neck, it stays in plays up to weight amounts way beyond which is medically advisable (the maximum amount of weights I have suspended from a sub’s scrotum using this toy were 10+kg. Don’t try this at home!). If you want to use climbing carabiners instead of threading rope or tension straps through the o-ring, you will have create a larger opening using shackles like with the above reviewed toy.

The Anchor Straps‘ Roller Buckle

The straps are riveted to slightly to the body that they don’t move. But they are long enough to allow for a pendulum movement. The movement stops quicker than on more freely hanging chains but the stiffness also transfers more of the kinetic energy onto the balls for an intense tug.

Of course you can also incorporate the Anchor Straps into bondage layouts by connecting them to restraints. But I found that the straps and the o-ring create more slack than the Scrotum Strap. But this is a very minor point of a toy hoarder. If you just have this one, it will perfectly work for tying down the balls or limit the subs movement by connecting either or both ankle and wrist restraints with this ball cuff.

Conclusion: Secure ball cuffs for heavy play
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Secure fit even during hard play Stiff leather which takes long to break-in Regulation £24 (Scrotum Strap)

£30 (one buckle)
£35 (two buckle)
Adjustable to wide range of ball sized Adjusting is a bit cumbersome
Once broken in comfortable to wear over extended periods of time Basic build quality

 

Wine Rack Vertical as Dildo Storage

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Life is what is happening while you make other plans. For the start of the new review seasons, I planned a very different post. But on Friday while cleaning up the playroom I tweeted about a simple new addition: A wine rack to store realistic dildos. This simple, quick & dirty tweet sparked SO much interest, that I decided to write about the apparently topic of interest.

I have bought a wine rack for soft, realistic dildos mostly from SquarePeg. Due to the size and soft firmness, they do not stand up or fall over easily. Lying down they take up a lot of space so I was looking for an ergonomically and economically storage solution which I hope to have found in this wine rack. As you will read it is far from perfect yet until now the best solution I have come up with. If you have a better one, please get in touch!

For

For easy cleaning and to avoid reaction between potential surface treatment of wood for example, I was looking for a plastic wine rack. This particular one is from mDesign and I ordered for 23.99€ off Amazon.de. I chose the light grey over the black one because at roughly 55€ the black was way more than I would spend on such an item. And since I indeed to put it inside a metal IKEA Hyllis shelf, the color actually fit.

Silicone is a very sticky material (flint on toy pics anyone?)! Unlike wine bottles, the dildos will stick to the rack, making rather the rack more than the dildo. Because of this I used zip ties to fix the rack to the shelf. This is far from perfect, does not stop all movement but in the end is sufficient. I briefly considered Velcro ties instead of plastic zip ties but neglected the idea for easier cleaning of plastic ones. There were very fancy and sleek racks out there. But since they do not have even improvised anchor points as my new one has, I did not buy them. Before you chose a rack, make should you have a plan how to connect the rack to the shelf in which it stands.

Especially soft silicone creases easily. Since I have bought this rack primarily for me SquarePeg toys, I accept that due to the weight of the toys and the edges of the rack and the zip ties, they will get creases. Most silicone toys will get creases over time (like when throwing a bunch of them in a bucket during play), but if you want to keep your toys in perfect mint condition this storage solution is not for you. Because of this wine racks made out of bent wire at the front and the back are not suitable! The entire weight of the toy will rest on these two small points which will then dig deep into the material. Also, the toy will slack and stick to the toy below making them impossible to pull out.BeinBeing a wine rack, it is also only a solution for roughly cylindrical toys (aka realist dildos) roughly the diameter of a wine bottle (up to Ø80mm) without too big base that aren’t too long. Just for fun I put a Mr Hankey’s Toys Lampwick Uncut XXL (too long, base blocks slot below), a Bad Dragon Terra XL (knot it too big, base blocks surrounding slots) and a Bad Dragon Austin (knot is too big and to heavy so it has to be balanced not to fall out) inside it and I think you see the problem. This is especially annoying since while Terra stands very sturdily on its base, the first and the last toy can almost only be stored lying down, taking up a lot of space yet are too big for the rack.

The same accounts for plugs! An Oxballs Pig-Hole XXL just fits into the rack; a Pig-Hole FF is too big already. The Topped Toys Gape Keeper fits up to size 100 or the SquarePeg Acorn up to L. But due to the stickyness, it is considerably easier to just store them standing upright in a shelf than storing them vertically in a rack like this one.

This is my wine rack fully stacked with head-heavy realistic dildos. As you can see, the bases overlap making them a bit difficult to pull out. Also, unlike on a shelf the top cannot see the dildo so he has to know which base belongs to which dildo. So this solution is far from perfect! But it is a huge improvement over trying to balance the dildos standing up and a number of them falling out when just grabbing one.

I hope this little review/ guide help you make up your mind what is the most effective and accessible storage for your dildos. Because after all: A toy you cannot reach easily will seldom be used!

Unboxing the VAST Breathing System

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Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self-breathplay. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, the is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please never do it alone!

I have known VAST (formerly Demask Dortmund) for almost 1 ½ decades. It is where I have bought my first rubber surf suit, where my sling is from and the owner and founder made the technical drawings for the bondage capable bed I am still sleeping in. Jens is not only a truly kinkster at heart but also a creative engineer who comes up with all sorts of new and horny designs. Half a year ago he told me about a system designed to make breathplay easier and safer. Since a lot of you guys are interested in this kink and I have ignored the review requests due to security concerns, I was instantly interested in it.

1 ½ weeks ago a BIG parcel arrived with a mix of final and pre-production elements of the VAST Breathing System. All elements are compatible with standard 40mm GM40 NATO gas mask accessories like hoses or filers.

Since not all elements were finally packaged, there might be some difference of what is included in a particular product. To be sure, please check the linked product page. Also, during the test production, they noticed that the black polymer was not as sturdy as they desired. They switched to another one which only comes in a cool looking dark blue. So if you are looking for an all-black aesthetics, this is not for you. Under “typical” blue or red playroom lighting, the dark blue is almost indistinguishable from black.

The heart of the VAST Breathing System is the Rebreather. Like all elements it comes in a nice wooden box with heat-embossed technical drawing of the product on top.

The Rebreather is a switch which either lets fresh air into the system or create a closed-loop rebreathing system. For the closed system either attach a standard breathing bag, a Breath Reducer…

… or the Capsule Injector.This is a T-piece with a 6l breathing bag on the one side and a male 40mm NATO thread on the other side. At the bottom is metal screw-in N2O injector. A standard N2O capsule roughly fills 6l thus the size of the breathing bag. If you want to store the toy inside the wooden box, there is space for 24 standard N2O capsules so you can keep the supplies along with the gear.The Capsule Injector also comes with an adapter to attach medical breathing gear.To scent and flavor the air you breath, there are three options. The first is the Bubbler which allows you to breath through a liquid like piss for example. It comes with a 1l bottle.

If you want to enjoy the smell of sox or underwear, go for the Sniffer.

It comes with a 1.5l…

…and a 4l container with a Ø100mm lid so you can easily put the scent carriers inside and retrieve them.

The final option is the Vaporizer.

This is again an easy to turn switch which should be placed between the air-intake of the gas mask and every other breath play accessory you want to add to your setup.

To add the vapors there is a small canister with a 70mm thread into which poppers drenched cotton is placed. Like on the Capsule Injector, there are five spaces to store poppers bottles inside the box.

To use all these toys, you need a piece of gear which covers mouth and nose and has a GM40 ports. The sleekest solution is the combination of a Medical Face Mask combined with the Mask Splitter and attached to the head using the Head Harness made out of Superior Latex.

More elaborate are of course gas masks. For the iconic Avon S10/ FM12 VAST created an Upgrade Kit to turn the standard respirator into a breath play toy.

First there is a stainless steel tool to easily take out the front insert (next week I will post a short How-to use it).

This is replaced with an air-tight  front insert which echos the look of the original. The center can be screwed off and replaced with either…

… tunnel inserts for face fucking with 40mm, 45mm or 50mm internal diameter (if you are more well-endowed, you are out of luck since there is no more space) or…

…. A holder either for a Fleshlight Classic of Fleshlight GO.

Finally, there is a new exhalation valve to enable a closed breathing circuit.

If you do not have an Avon S10/ FM12 gas mask, VAST offers a FM12 with an attached hood.

For connecting the different accessories with each other, VAST offers hoses in 12cm, 15cm, 22cm, 40cm and 42cm length.

To keep everything in place, VAST makes small belts out of their aramid reinforced Superior Latex. They are designed to attach the different gear pieces to their Superior Rubber Y-harness.

Classic Restraints

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The Cuffed Classic Restraints

Quick note: ToyTorture.com is still on hiatus until after Ascension. But I have been getting so many questions about the Cuffed Classis Restraints that I decided to take a break from the break and write this review today.

Vendor: Cuffed

Design

The Cuffed Classic Restraints is an entire system of sturdy restraints made out of rubber. Of course they cover the standard anchor points like wrist and ankle. But they also include thigh and biceps ones for total fixation (well, a body belt is missing but that can easily be made out of one big thigh restraint if you e-mail them nicely) or an extra long boot restraint to tie down MX boots up to wrist suspension cuffs.

The Kevlar reinforced Heavy Rubber Strap

The basic design of the Classic Restraints is a cuff-style like its brother the Rubstraints: The inside layer is made out of two layers of .8mm grade latex. This rubber either comes in classic black or in toyred, organge, yellow, white, green and blue. This makes them ideal to either display a hanky cover or add a dash of color to an all black rubber outfit. There is not padding like on many leather restraints but the rubber is soft enough to feel comfortable. On both side rubber tubing is encased in the same latex to create a cool piping look. The restraints come in two width: 64mm for the nimbler body parts like wrists and ankles and 101mm for the thighs. The thigh restraints have another layer of the industrial rubber covering the body. Otherwise it would warp too easily.

Onto the restaints body, a belt made out of a double layer of Kevlar reinforced black industrial rubber is riveted. For this two pairs of rivets are used between which a D-ring is housed. The wrist restraints has two D-rings, the ankle restraints have three, all with an internal width of 41mm. The thigh restraints feature five D-rings with 53mm with. One end of the belt is equipped with a roller buckle and a locking pin, on the other side there are rivet-reinforced belt holes. If you want to use to locking pin, you can fasten the belt until the third last hole.

The Roller Buckle and Locking Pin

The locking pin has a 4mm hole so most standard locks for restraint locking should fit. If you don’t have locks, I would not recommend buying the ones Cuffed is selling! They are made out of brass, the standard for locks even in the BDSM community – at least when it comes to leather. Brass is one the metals that can cause rubber cancer which is an unfixable! It frankly baffles me that a shop specializing in rubber is selling brass locks. If you want to lock these restraints, either buy aluminum or stainless steel padlocks (my choice are Abus Titalium but there are many other options) or use seals often used on chastity cages.

Like all rubber and latex items, these restraints require special care and handling. Most important: Keep them away from oil and fat, including and especially Crisco! These substances will destroy the rubber! Since there is always a thin film of oil on the human skin, rubber should be washed after each scene either using simple, non-moisturizing dish soap or a special rubber detergent (my detergent of choice is Wonder Wash). Before storing them, make sure they are COMPLETELY dry (often water gets trapped in the tubes used for the piping) and seal the surface either with talcum powder or silicone lube to keep the rubber from oxidation. But regardless how well you take care of the Rubstraints, how thoroughly you clean and protect them from oxidation, they – like all rubber and latex times – will over time get old and finally break! So use them often and well to get the most fun out of them.

The Triple Layer Thigh Restraint

If you want to learn more about rubber and latex, the perfect care and its appeal, check out my Rubber 101.

Playing with the Classic Restraints

This part of the review starts the same way as the review of their Rubstraint brother did 1 ½ years ago: These are rubber restraints the work and can take a beating – just like high quality leather restraints. Period. Most of the force of struggling and fighting is caught by the heavy rubber belt which can take a beating! One testee said “How secure can rubber restraints be?” He was surprised how well they tied him down. And he got really horny when he heard the clicking sound of the padlock through the locking post, realizing the he was now inescapable fettered with rubber in his latex catsuit.

The D-Ring Housing from the Bottom and the Top

Since the basic design with the latex piped lining is the same as on their brothers, the restraint can be worn on bare skin also when struggling hard without chafing.  But there is one major difference between the Classic Restraints and the Rubstraints: The latter has the industrial grade Velcro patch to align both ends of the restraints which is a nifty feature. While the latex of the body is soft and smoth, the tubes for the piping are stiff. This leads to one of the restraint breaking out when putting it on or even slipping when the sub is struggling. When wearing the cuffs are an accessory and putting the wrist restraints on on your own this is especially annoying. It sometimes took me several attempts to shackle the cuffs on my sub and chuckled a bit seeing an experienced to failing for a minute or so to fetter me until his pride allowed him to ask for a third, helping hand. Since rubber (ceteris paribus) does not get broken in, it is going to stay this way. Yes, it is annoying but over time you learn how to handle these restraints.

The Metal Gate Width Difference of the Rubstraint (left) and Classic (right)

Like on most restraints, D-rings are used as attachment points. And since each Classic Restraint has at least two, there are ample of fixation and bracing possibilities. They are wide enough to house more than one rope, tension strap or carabiner and even chains up to 6mm wire strength can be run through them.

An important thing to note is that the metal gate behind the roller buckle which aligns the belt is narrower than the gates on the Rubstraints! Because of this the belt system of Rubstraints is not compatible with the Classic restraints.

Since the Classic Restraints are made out of the same material as the Rubstraints the smell almost obscenely off latex! To protect them from sun light, I store them in a box and opening it releases a cloud of intoxicating rubber smell. And being made out of rubber they can be shined like rubber gear. If they get a bit dull, just take out silicone oil and shine them as glossy as you like them.

Conclusion: Sturdy and colorful rubber restraints.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sturdy enough even for heavy bondage scenes and strong subs A bit difficult to put on and keep aligned Wrist Restraints 139€
Ankle Restraints 139€
Will age over time and will eventually break
Colorful restraint body
Intense rubber smell and feel Biceps Restraints 139€
More than one anchor point Thigh Restraints 259€
Locking Pin Boot Restraints 269€
Suspension Restraints 329€
Collar 139€

SquarePeg Leo 2X Long & King

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Form: Realistic Dildo
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: Graphite, Bronze & Chestnut
Firmness: Soft
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Regulation

Sometimes, I get VERY specific review demands from certain countries. Since summer of 2021 UK kinksters were VERY interested in BIG and LONG realistic dildos. And since my motto is “Perverting the world one kinkster at a time” I gladly follow this yearning and review the Leo King and 2X Long for you greedy, tea sipping ass pigs.

Construction

Obviously Leo is a realistic dildo. It is a lifecast from a guy who was introduced to Scott, the founder of SquarePeg through mutual friends in 2016. Lucky for us since Leo is a very horny member in every dildo collection.

The SquarePeg Leo 2X, 2X Long and King

Being cast off US citizens, Leo is sadly cut. He starts out with dullish glans with a prominent glans rim bulge. The top third of the dick is slightly curved back with the remaining shaft being straight, only slightly increasing in diameter towards the end. The shaft is covered with a smooth yet noticeable ventral groove and some small veins. Especially on the King these features are very prominent and can be felt despite the softness and overall evenness of the shaft which makes the toy good to run. On the 2X Long, you can really see Scott’s artistic heritage being a wood sculptor: While all other sizes are proportional scaling of the original cast, on the long he interprets and extrapolates how a longer Leo would most likely look like. The changes are subtle but when you like me have the 2X and the 2X Long you can spot the difference and see how well & thoughtful they are designed.

While the Leo also is available with realistic balls, this version only comes in the original, 1X and 2X size which are tiny compared the two reviewed today. The King and 2X Long are only available the Harness version which has a round, flat base for using them with a strap-on harness. Since both are Harness dildos they can be outfitted with the SquarePegHole for attaching the dildo to all compatible Vac-U-Lock adaptors, for example on fuck machines, suction cups or to connect two dildos.

Leo’s Dullish Glans

Like all SquarePeg toys, Leo is made out of platinum silicone, which means body safe and hypoallergenic platinum is used to cure the silicone. Besides platinum making the toy body safe, it makes the toy easy to handle. After having played, you can basically throw everything at the dildo to get it clean: From hot water with dish soap to bleach, the dishwasher or even autoclave them. This makes the toys ideal for sex parties because they can be quickly and easily be cleaned and sterilized between partners.

Since Leo is made out of soft silicone, store him upright or laying down without pressure to avoid creases. Never store the dildo with other materials together because the plasticizers can damage the silicone for good!

Speaking of damaging your toys: Despite what the founder of SquarePeg says, I would not recommend silicone lube with silicone toys. There is a chance the silicone oil in the lube will destroy silicone toys. I recommend only using water- or oil-based lube with silicone toys, especially because they are easier to clean off.

Size Head Diameter Diameter at Base Length SquarePegHole FlushCup
XS 32mm 37mm 140mm
S 41mm 47mm 191mm X
Actual/ Life Size 49mm 57mm 229mm X X
1X 57mm 61mm 260mm X X
1X Long 57mm 61mm 330mm X
2X 61mm 67mm 286mm X X
2X Long 65mm 69mm 362mm X
3X 73mm 77mm 292mm X
King 77mm 81mm 330mm X

Leo King’s MASSIVE Ventral Groove

Playing with the big Leos

Back in 2019 I have already reviewed the Leo 2X which I loved a lot. Spoiler: I still love it in Long or as King. But my thoughts on playing with them slightly change due to the toys being longer and thicker.

The obvious thing first: While the 2X was still somewhat for the intermediate player, both the 2X Long and the King are for experienced players who are very well versed in depth play! Even with the King, even when you have a deep rectum, both toys will penetrate your second hole when you are about 2/3 (King) or half way (2X Long) down the shaft.

For this penetration you should have done some prestretching with a more tapered toy, like SquarePeg’s Sigmund. Leo’s glans which is almost a half dome does not gently, slowly open up the second sphincter but push it open a bit like a ram. But half-dome only covers 2/3 of the shaft diameter and it’s bottom lines up precisely with the bottom of the shaft. The remaining 1/3 is an almost vertical slope that ends in a bulge before finally arriving at the smooth shaft.

The Extrapolated Texture of the Leo 2X Long

This sounds dramatic but it is rather intense. When you sphincters are experienced, this combination of different sensations which a half-dome, a slope and the bulge create is very stimulating. Especially when the 2X Long goes deep into the colon, the feeling of this “rugged” yet smooth combination is an intense, new sensation. For example, when the dildo goes around a kink, the bulge massages the sensitive mucosa intensely. When you reach a barrier in your colon, you usually retract the toy and push forward in a twisting motion. But since Leo’s glans is so asymmetrical this does not always work. It can actually be counterproductive since the stimulation can cause the colon to tense up. But when you are relaxed and you deeply trust the top commanding the dildo, it can be very horny experience.

Twisting motion is also the key word for the King. With his MASSIVE ventral groove twisting him inside a loose hole, is a blissful experience. It triggers the pressure sensitive nerves inside the anus, stimulates the prostate and massages the also sensitive rectum walls. But in order to enjoy the Leo King thoroughly you need a trained, open hole. His shaft has the same diameter as a large Acorn from SquarePeg, just for comparison.  Having this dildo locked deep inside your rectum and colon gives you an incredible feeling of stretch and fullness. Feeling the stretched puffy anus lips move over the slightly textured shaft surface is pure bliss for greedy ass pigs.

The SquarePeg Hole which is compatilble with Vac-U-Lock adapters

Being such on the extremer end of the size spectrum, I need to say a few words about handling. Especially when going deep, I recommend to kneel down and ride the toys on your own. This way you can best control the speed and force of the toy entering you and your colon is most relaxed. This works well for the King size but the 2X Long due to its length and soft material is quite floppy. This is a challenge all depth toys face yet due to unique shape of the tip the Leo does not slide in as quickly and easily as tapered tipped toys. So you have to struggle a bit more.

Usually when you can get a Vac-u-Lock hole, I highly recommend you get it! It is so practical, and if it is just for a top to put his thumb into it to guide the toy. But with these large Leos, I am a bit torn. When riding the toys on your own, the hole in the middle of the shaft cause the lower section to become instable and bend away. To prevent this, stick a Vac-u-Lock adaptor into it – or become REALLY loose and open.

Where to buy?

When you order from Europe, you can get the Leo at Regulation for between £79.33 and £259.99 – depending on how greedy you are. Size and colors not in stock can be easily ordered by e-mail.

Saber

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Form: Depth Toy
Material: Platinum Silicone
Colors: Whatever you can imagine
Firmness: Soft to Extreme Firm (not recommended)
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in warm water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

The OrganoToy Saber S und L

Vendor: OrganoToy

 

Construction

The basic shape of the Saber is easily explained: It is a very long stretched cone which come in two sizes, small and large. Both cones taper from a rounded tip with about 20mm diameter over 480mm length to a maximum diameter of 60m or 80mm. Below this maximum diameter both Sabers have a small neck before flowing into a sphere of the respective diameter. After a small taper there is either a small shaft again (Saber S) or it flows sand clock-shaped directly into the base. If you really want to take the Saber DEEP, you can insert 570mm into your rectum and colon before you reach the 30mm thick round base which on both models has a 20mm larger diameter than the individual maximum diameter. Into the base a shallow suction cup is molded. It adds a bit of stability but cannot rein in the massive floppy toy boy.

For all its products, OrganoToy uses ISO 10993-10 certified platinum silicone. This material meets the highest standards of body and allergy safety so the toys are 100% body safe and easy to clean. Furthermore all of OrganoToy’s products are also compliant with the new toy ISO standard 3533 2021.

Suction Cup inside the Base of the Large Saber

Silicone also comes in a wide spectrum of firmness from floppy to HARD. The Saber can be ordered in split firmness for an easy to control base and bendy shaft. Besides these properties, platinum silicone can also be colorized easily. So the Saber can be manufactured in elaborate fades, marbles or with glow in the dark colors. If you choose a split firmness between the lower section of the toy and cone-shaped body, you can choose two distinct colorations. My color theme has been “photon swords” with metal “grips” and glow in the dark “blades”. Both options cost a bit extra but are worth it if you invest into such an individual toy.

Playing with the Saber

First things first: The Saber is a bitch to handle, regardless of the size. It is one of the longest depth toys on the market, sitting between the SquarePeg Long Long Neck and SquarePeg Slink XXL in insertable length. Since the Saber should go around the bends of the colon, it must be soft, so the shaft is naturally floppy. The floppiness can be reduced a bit with choosing the firmer base but it will still be a soft toy. How soft – which Shore value – is best is highly individual and depends not only on your preference but also body. Some prefer a soft toy sneaking around the bends and “curling” up when there is a barrier, blocking the advancement. Others need a firmer toy to straighten out the kinks with SLOW and SOFT pushing forward! The firmer the toy, the more careful your advances down have to be. Otherwise serious, potentially leather injuries can happen! So for safety reasons never buy firmer than Shore A5 and proceed with caution.

The Pointy Tip of the Saber

This sounds more serious and dangerous than the toy actually is. With the relatively thick and rounded tip the chance of puncturing your colon with a Saber is almost zero if you listen to your body during pay. The larger diameter of the tip leads to an overall higher stiffness of the upper third of the toy compared to a SP Slink in the same firmness. Due to this the tip bends less easily. This is especially useful when starting out depth play because instead of bending away when the second sphincter tightens up, the Saber can stretch this hole.

What speaks against the Saber as a beginner’s toy is the length. The best position to slowly and carefully go deep is kneeling over the toy and controlling the thrust with your thigh muscles. This is impossible due to the length of the Saber. When OrganoToy releases an about 1/3 shorter version for more easily controlled play the Saber will become a good toy for beginners.

For experienced players, the Saber is a good tool for training depth deeper. Depending on the firmness there is not much difference to the Slink – until you are about to take the Saber all the way. The sphere above the bottom is a what the Saber apart from all other depth toys. On the one hand, it is a gauge for how for up your ass you have taken the toy. On the other hand, it adds a new level of stimulation. The steep stretch of a sphere triggers the nerve endings inside the anus and with a bit of luck, depending on your physiology it even presses against your prostate. Both the stretch and stimulation are not aggressive so it does not encourage rapid movements that could lead to injuries down the way.

The Sphere Section of the Saber’s Lower Party

If you belong to the few how enjoy the fullness and movement of silicone deep inside your body, the Saber is the superior toy. The base locks the toy way better inside you than any other depth toy! If you are in for strong stimulation, the Saber picks up vibration applied to the base better than other depth toys, especially if you go for a bit firmer silicone.

Where to buy?

Since depth play is HIGHLY individual, I would highly recommend buying the Saber directly through OrganoToy’s website. This way you can customize the firmness just the way your hole needs it. And yes, you can also choose the color. The Saber S starts at 99,96€, the Large one at 199,96€. Of course customization costs a bit extra.
The Saber is also available at OrganoToy retail partner. There are only a few yet but if you want to know where to shop brick&mortar or want to become a retail partner, send them an e-mail.