Kategorie-Archiv: Restraints

Toys that restrict the wearer’s movement.

Mr S Heavy Duty Posture Collar

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The Mr S Heavy Duty Posture Colar

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Construction

The sturdy bridle leather body of this collar is slightly curveted. On the ends it is already a hefty 80mm wide but then increases to a whopping 102mm in the middle. However, the bottom goes even lower to press against the sternum, allowing for a shallow recess where the chin goes. In front of the recess there is a half-oval bridle leather flap attached onto the body with snap buttons. So you can decide how severe the fettering will be.

The 51mm wide belt for closing the collar is riveted onto the body. When you want to lock the collar around the sub’s neck, the maximum circumference is 45cm. If you “just” want to close it around the neck, the circumference goes up to 51cm. The belt is closed with a roller buckle and can be locked using a pin. The lock shackle hole has a diameter of 4mm so pad locks with up to 3.5mm shackle wire strength can be used to lock this collar. Below the roller buckle a 60x64mm piece of oil-tanned leather protects potential hair or skin getting caught when fastening the belt. The belt also covers the small riveted leather loop which house three 27.5mm wide and 15mm tall stainless steel D-rings. There is one in the middle and one below each jaw side. There is not D-ring on the back so if you want to attach a leash, you have to get creative.

Detail of the Locking Pin

To protect the skin from chafing even under pressure with a sub who tries to move his head a lot, both the body and the chin plate is piped for a smooth and rounded edge. For more comfort and to avoid direct skin with the rivets both body and chin plate is lined with soft garment leather. The leather is sewed and glued onto the body; the edge is not deburred. Being made from the soft, signature Mr S garment leather, the “rough” edge doesn’t cause any issues. However, it would have looked and felt a bit more finished if even this edge would have been piped.

The curvated body of the Heavy Duty Posture Collar

The Roller Buckle & the Protecting Leather Flap

Playing with the Heavy Duty Posture Collar

The name of the toy says it all: It is a heavy duty collar to keep the sub’s head in place. Due to not being padded, it is a very strict posture collar though not the strictest in my collection. But certainly the most play ready and versatile. Push the front against the sub’s Adam’s apple, wrap the collar around it and close ONE wide belt. Many other collars either have two belts making it a little bit cumbersome or just one thin (20 – 30mm wide) one which compromised the rigidity. Mr S really found a sweet spot here.

Despite not being padded, it can be worn over extended periods of time. But especially when using the chin plate, take extra care when taking it off. When a limb or joint is forced in one position – especially unnatural ones – over extended periods of time, it will go stiff. This in combination with the head being rather heavy requires a lot of attention and support when taking the collar off the sub’s neck. Otherwise something similar to whiplash can happen.

The detachable Chin Plate

A nice feature is the detachable chin plate. Especially body builders with bull necks struggle with the chin support on other posture collars. Being able to take it off is a huge feature. The tallness between 80mm and 100mm is plenty enough to limit the head movement. This is even truer when the sub has a very pronounced jaw line.

As always with restraints and especially collars, being able to lock it adds a high psychological momentum. Not being able to take it off while not being able to move your head is a huge mind fuck! In the last year I have seen locking pins from cheaper manufacturer only having a shackle hole diameter of 3mm or even less. It is very good that Mr S doesn’t cut corners and still sticks to the “industry” standard so you can keep using your key-alike lock set.

One of the Lateral D-Rings

The three D-rings in the front are nifty anchor points for all kinds of bondage situations. Because compared to other, thinner collars the post collar distributes the force more evenly on the neck, it is a good toy for fettering the neck and keeping the boy even more in position. When doing this, the surrounding bondage layout should be tight. Otherwise there is a chance of the subs strangling himself when he can move too much.

While there is not D-ring at the back for K9 play, you can of course attach a leash in the front and lead your slave around. For deviant K9 play, attach bondage mitts to the lateral D-rings so your dog has to crawl on his elbows (don’t forget elbow protectors in this setup!). A top friend of mine use short leashes on the sides to have handles when face fucking his subs.

Conclusion: Heavy & heavy duty collar with grip to control unruly slaves!
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Fits extremely wide range of necks … but no D-ring in the back Mr S Leather $189.95
On smaller necks the long excess belt is a bit annoying
Lockable
Detachable Chin Plate
Three D-rings…

Wrist to Ball Restraint

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The Mr S Wrist to Ball Restraint

Vendor: Mr S

Construction

Five individual pieces form this restraint setup. Literally the central element is 31mm wide piece of the typical Mr S soft yet sturdy bridle leather which is burnished and deburred. It is folded several times and riveted to house stainless steel D-rings on both ends. They are 38mm wide and 27mm high and have a wire strength of 6mm so they are really heavy duty! In the middle sits a locking pin.

By threading  the belt through the D-rings, this leather bars connects two cuff style wrist restraints. They are not padded but lined with soft garment leather for a bit more restrictive feeling. The belt is closed with roller buckles and houses a D-ring between two rivets. The restraints are functional and effective, covering a range of wrist circumference form 11cm to 22cm. Depending on how big the sub’s wrist are, you might be able to push the ends of the cuff closing belt over the locking pin to lock the restraints. The roller buckles are wider than the width of the D-ring. This means they “firmly” connected to the connector and cannot be exchange for different, for example padded ones or bondage mitts.

The Scrotum Strap

The locking pin in the middle of the connection bar is the anchor point for a 24cm long and 1.9cm wide strap of bridle leather. It’s bottom is lined with garment leather for a total width of 2.5cm. At the top eight holes for attaching the strap to the locking pin are punched. At the bottom another locking pin is riveted to the strap. It is the anchor point for 35.5cm long and 1.9cm wide piece of extra soft, unlined bridle leather. There is one hole punched at one end and nine at the other. This strap is for attaching the restraint setup to the scrotum and covers a ball neck circumference from a already surprisingly large 15cm to massive, (saline-)pumped 30cm.

The Roller Buckle

To connect all straps, the Wrist to Ball Restaint comes with two small keyed alike Master padlocks. If you already have a keyed alike padlock system for your play space, you can use your pad lock with up to 3.5mm shale wire strength.

Playing with the Wrist to Ball Restaint

The primary purpose of this toy is to create a physical feedback loop between the hands and the balls. The human body usually try to “work out” pain sensation through muscle movement. So regardless of what you are doing to the sub as soon as he tries to move his arms to help processing the sensation his balls will move. The shorter the connection strap, the stronger to force transmition. This is especially devious if the balls are pre-bruised so hurt from movement of when you line the scrotum strap with a (dull) pin strap). I found that particularly fun in combination with CBT or e-stim around the balls. Even more so when you hang a movement sensitive e-stim device from the padlock on the scrotum strap.

The Connector

Of course, this toy also works as a piece of bondage gear without additionally induced sensations. The most basic use is to use it as simple handcuffs without the scrotum part. The connector is not as rigid as a metal on like on Hiatts 840 handcuffs but has less slack and torsional stiffness than carabiners or rope. The connector allows the cuffs to be grabbed easily and forcefully (just make sure the locking pin is between your fingers) so you can handle and direct the sub.

When you include the scrotum setup, the simplest bondage layout is to keep the sub’s arms down. Handily the restraint can be worn below cloths. More demanding is incorporating it into any stress bondage position and watch him try to get into himself into a somewhat comfortable position while he is tugging on his balls. Once the sub has found a somewhat comfortable position, smack his balls to encourage some movement.

The Cuffs in the Smallest and LargestSetting

Putting the restraints on is easy: First put the wrists of the sub either in front or behind his body and fetter them either with the connector’s locking pin either facing towards or away from the body (yes, each of the four combinations has a different effect). Then Tie the scrotum strap around the balls neck, push the single hole of the connection strap over it and close using a padlock. Finally, adjust the tightness of the tug with the length of the connection strap and push the corresponding hole over the connector’s locking pin. Having put the process into words makes it sound more complicated than it actually is. Since I figured out how to use the individual elements, it takes me less than a minute to fetter a sub completely.

The Riveted D-Rings on the Cuff and Connector

When the locking pin is facing the body, there is a little bit more slack in the connection strap so less force is transmitted. For more intense play, let the locking pin face away from the sub’s body. The restraint position has a bit stronger effect. Behind the body is the more traditional position. Due to the elbows being a bit twisted and stretched, there is less way for them to act out things so again it is more intense. Also, the balls are prominently tugged back for easier targeting. However, this way the connection strap covers the anus. If you want to fuck your bottom hard, put the restraint in front of the body. Depending on the sub’s physiology, this even works in doggystyle. For ball torture this position works only limited because the dick is in the way. But if you make a bit of stress bondage out of it by pulling the arms up using the D-rings on the cuffs, you get a nice, strong balls tugging again. Just be careful not to overdo it because the wrist cuffs are not made for suspension bondage!

Conslusion: Unique and effective combination of CBT and bondage.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Interesting bondage layouts possible Scrotum Strap could use more holes for smaller balls Mr S Leather $139.95
Lockable
D-rings on cuffs Restraints are not padded and cannot be exchanged
Extrem high build and manufacturing quality

Agitation Collar

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The Mako & Tiger 2“ Agitation Collar

Vendor: Mako & Tiger

Design

What makes this collar stick out that it’s HEAVY! Without the lock it weights slightly over 600g. This is (thin) metal collar territory! The weight comes from its heavy duty construction: In the middle of this multi-layer construction is the collar itself, a piece of bridle leather is lined with firm yet comfortable padding which is covered with garment leather.  The garment leather comes in black, red or blue. The piping of the lining is slightly wider than the bridle leather so even when the collar is fastened tightly, the unburnished edges don’t scratch the skin. Below the lining two screws (not rivets!) each hold the flaps in place which house the massive, burnished steel roller buckles and guiding loops for the belt.  The belt surrounding the collar is made out of two layers 3.5mm thick bridle leather. The two ends of the belt are punched with two rows of three holes each.

The D-Ring with the Branded Protective Flap

In the center of the belt which marks the back of the collar a leather flap embossed with Mako & Tiger’s paw brand sign is sewed. It covers the thick 6mm thick stainless steel D-ring which is 45mm wide and 32mm deep.

What makes this collar an agitation collar is the grip what is sewed onto the back of the belt. It is as wide as the belt and in the middle also double-layered. When I first showed my testees this collar they are a bit puzzled that it was sewed and not riveted/ screwed onto the belt as a seam for them meant something that could come apart. The stitching is so high quality, the yarn to thick and strong that none had fears that things would come apart, even with the most unruly, agitating subs!

The Supplied Padlock locking the Agitation Collar

For locking the collar, there are two options: The more elegant one is the Segufix lock. On this version the belt holes are pushed over a Segufix lock pin and shackled with a standard Segufix lock. But of course any sub with access to a strong magnet and a free hand can undo this. More secure and heavy looking is order this collar without the pin. Then you pull the shackle of a padlock through both belt ends and close it. This way the collar is most definitively secured around the slave’s neck and you can use your keyed-alike padlock set you already have in place in your dungeon. But don’t lose the key! The thick, multi-layer design makes cutting through the collar with safety sheers or emergency knifes almost impossible. If you don’t have a key-aliked padlock system in your playspace,

The Sewed on Multi-Layered Grip

The collar also comes in two sizes: 50mm/ 2’’ width which I have or 75mm/ 3’’ which can double as a posture collar! When choosing the collar width, please be realistic. Because of the many layers of thick leather, it takes forever to break this collar in and it will never get as flexible as a “normal” bondage collar from Mr S for example. So if it fits too tightly between shoulders and chin, the unburnished edges of the stiff leather can scratch a bit, not to talk about the metal trim of the buckles.  When ordering the collar, you have to supply a neck circumference. There is some leeway up and down this sizing so it fits somewhat smaller and bigger collar sizes. But in order to work well, the fit should be good. So more than any other piece of bondage gear, this is really something the sub should own for a perfect fit instead of a dom keeping in his playroom as a one-size fits all. If you want to do the latter, 16’’ is the most common collar size. Smaller twinks have around 14½’’, big bears around 17’’.

 

One of the Two Roller Buckles

Playing with the Agitation Collar

 

Like many BDSM toys, agitation collars come from the vanilla world. They were originally designed to train wild puppies or control sharp dogs – the bio not the fetish kind.

Even “just” the 50mm version has an air of heavy duty around it! The many layers of thick leather, the big, burnished roller buckles, the big padlock dangling in the front (or the – ideally – red Segufix lock cap) creates an atmosphere of seriousness. This is also enhanced by the way it is fettered around the subs neck: Since the belts meet in the front, a kneeling slave has to look up to his master while he adjusts the two buckles so it sits right in the middle of the neck and ultimately locks the collar. Like with all lockable gear, hearing the click of the lock adds a lot of psychological momentum. This is even enhanced when during play the dandling lock hits the sternum. If you want to facilitate that, buy a long-shackled lock with a thinner wire so it moves around more. If you want to mark you dog visibly, you have to lock the dog tag also shackle because there is no D-ring on the front.

Example of the Many Bridle Leather Layers

Besides humiliating and restricting the neck movement through the collar, the piece de résistance  is the grip on the back. It really allows to – somewhat – comfortably grab the neck of the sub – either holding him back or drag him towards where he has to be (like a hole to rim or a dick to suck…). The collar distributes the pulling force quite evenly. Of course, it is felt strongly but this Agitation Collar is the most comfortable and thus safest one I have experienced so far. This of course also applies for attaching a leash to the D-ring at the back. So if you have an unruly puppy that wants to jump at people, keeping him on a short leash works well with this collar. Despite being so thick and stiff, the collar can be worn comfortable over extended periods of time.

The Double-Layered Grip to Pull or Hold the Slave

The “somewhat comfortable” is directed towards the dom. Being made out of STIFF bridle leather, the grip is not really comfortable to grab with its unburnished and undeburred edges. I tried to soften mine using neatsfoot oil but had limited success. Over time it will get a bit more broken in, but since it is double-layered at the center, it can only get so soft. At least the sharp edges are not a problem if you like me play almost always (leather) gloved as a top. A bigger issue is the width, especially on the 3’’ wide version: The top has to grab a 75mm wide, not really compressing piece of leather. For guys with smaller hands this is almost impossible. I have already given feedback to Mako & Tiger and maybe in the future there will be an about 1’’ wide bridle leather grip sheathed with garment leather. I assume especially female (pro)doms would appreciate a nimbler handle.

Conclusion: Heavy & heavy duty collar with grip to control unruly slaves!
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Grip & D-ring to pull & hold back the slave securely & safely Grip is somewhat uncomfortable 2’’ Wide Version $350
3’’ Wide Version $550
Great craftsmanship
Very heavy duty feel
Lockable

Bastinado Special Restraints

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Bastinado Special Restraints

Vendor: McHurt

Construction

The Bastinado Special Restraints are two ankle cuffs connected in the middle by sturdy stitching. Due to using stitching instead of a rivet they cannot twist. The leather of the cuff is not padded and 50mm wide. The cuffs feature an incredible ankle size range between 16cm and 28cm circumference. So they fit equally on petit ladies and big bulls. For easy handling the cuffs are closed using a roller buckle which is covered by a leather tongue so the metal does not press into the skin. Between the cuffs a 25mm wide and 26cm long belt is securely sown.

The toy comes with another connected cuff with 20mm wide leather straps closed by roller buckles. This small restraint is made for fettering the big toes together. Again, at a circumference range between 5cm and 11cm it should fit most feet. Unlike its big brother there is no belt between the cuffs.

Comparison of the Edge Finish of the Two Parts

McHurt is famous for basic yet heavy duty BDSM toys. They source their toys in Europe so no problem with Chrome-6 leather like from cheap Asian mass manufacturer or sloppy stitching. But the leather is initially stiffer than I would expect it to be and the inside of the ankle cuffs is lined with sued which edges have not been finished. That McHurt’s supplier is capable of a higher level of refinement is shown on the toe cuff which has perfectly finished edges – except for the leather tongue which underlines the buckles. All things consider at 49.80€ you get great value for your money! But just don’t expect the level of refinement you get at Mr S or Regulation/ Fetters.

Detail of the Roller Buckle

Playing with the Bastinado Special Restraints

Hitting the soles of the feet has many names: Bastinado, falaka, dǎ jiǎoxīn or foot whipping. It has an equally long tradition in Arabian, Asian and Western punishment culture. However, if you are not good with ropes, it is hard secure the feet in a way that they don’t flinch so you can deliver the blows precisely. As their name indicates, the Bastinado Special Restraints were designed just for that.

The Sued on the Inside of the Ankle Cuffs

The big cuffs are for tying the feet of the bottom together. The wide leather is perfect for distributing the strong force legs can exert evenly on the ankle so they are comfortable yet secure. Since the restraint has not padding or body but the belt is the restraint, there is little wiggle room. So with the feet tied next to each other, the soles form an even and parallel impact surface. This is basis for controlled and evenly hit impact play. But beyond this job well done, it gets a bit difficult.

The lacking level of refinement sadly also shows how cutting corners impairs the functionality of this toy. The strap between the cuffs is supposed for tying the ankle cuffs to a bar some (!) beds have as a design feature at the foot end. Most of these bars are purely ornamental so not really made for detaining struggling feet. But even if I ignore the scarcity of this design element and its common fragility – even though it is necessary for these cuffs to properly work! – the belt position doesn’t make sense! You have to twist it 90° in order tie it to a bar running perpendicularly to the cuffs. Of course, attaching it between the cuffs is cheap and still it somehow does the trick, but it is another example of lacking refinement and cutting corners due to cost.

The Inside of the Toe Cuffs

There is a similar issue on the toe cuffs. They keep the toes securely together to form an even impact area. But the bottom can still move his feet backwards and forwards. A small D-ring for attaching a tension strap to keep them from wiggling would have been great!

Do these issues make the Bastinado Special Restraints a bad toy? No! As already written, they are great value for money. You just need to invest a little bit of thinking and effort to work out the kinks.

  1. If you don’t have a bar to attach the restraints to, run tension straps though the roller buckles and laterally fetter the cuffs to the bed frame. Don’t use the rectangular gates as attachment points! They are not welded and will bend open (replacing them with welded D-rings [or welded gates like on the Rubstraints] would be the best solution tbh).
  2. You can use a big shackle as an improvised attachment point. If the thick metal wire is a bit uncomfortable for the bottom, a narrow and soft tape sling tied in a bowline also does the trick. I have tried carabineers but they tend to turn and slip, making it more uncomfortable.

An Improvised Attachment Point for the Toe Cuffs

I cannot review this toy without talking about impact play on the feet itself. Like the hand, the foot has many delicate bones which easily shatter. There is fat tissue and almost no thick muscle tissue to dampen the kinetic energy of the impact blow. So don’t let yourself be fooled by movies where people use thick bamboo canes to punish a guy! Instead use riding crops, thin canes with medium blow intensity, floggers of strap out of not too stiff leather or padded paddles. You can also flick wooden, delrin or aluminum blades but no full blows. The danger of inflicting permanent damage is too high.

Of course, with the feet kept in place, they are in a perfect spot for having wax poured on them. Or playing with a Wartenberg wheel. Or prick soles on combination with a rolling pin. Or e-stim. There are many safe options out there to torment the soles. Just don’t be over enthusiastic when it comes to actual bastinado 😉

Conclusion: Innovative special purpose restraint with practical shortcoming.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique design Attachment solution of the ankle cuffs is only hypothetical McHurt 49.80€
Can be used on wide range of body types
Good value for money Toe restraints have not attachment point
No d-rings
Unsophisticated manufacturing

Superior Latex Restraints (& Harnesses)

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The VAST Superior Latex Bondage Gear

Vendor: VAST

Construction

These restraints are standard cuff-style restraints. The body is 69mm wide and slightly convex. The wrist restraint body it is 220mm long, the ankle one is 320mm. Onto the body a 40mm wide belt is attached using four pairs of rivets. When the restraints are lying down, the belt bends slightly upwards. This is the “extra length” needed to comfortably wrap the restraints around the sub’s body. Between two rivet pairs a D-ring is housed. On the left side the belt ends in a roller buckle, on the other side it tapers for easy threading.

There are seven holes with 10mm spacing between the centers. The material and bonding is so strong and perfect, these restraints do not need the belt hole reinforcement rivets common on other pieces of rubber restraints (which are a pain in the ass when bending or falling out). The first hole is 75mm away from the belt tip. Due to this even in the largest setting, the belt tip goes fully through the belt loop.

For extra security you can order the restraints with a locking pin for an additional 20€. These restraints come with a two locks which look nice but can be picked with a paperclip. As always I recommend investing keyed alike, non-bras (!) locks like from ABUS or Master for your play.

The Wrist and Ankle Restraints with the Anatomically Curvature

As the name of the toy already indicates, it is made out of latex. Unlike other rubber restraints which rely on thick and stiff industrial rubber, VAST’s Superior Latex is made out of two layers of 0.8mm thick soft and smooth garment latex glued on top of a strap of aramid. So the material combines the softness of thin latex usually used to make fetish wear with the high strength of aramid. Being made out of standard 4D latex the restraints smell SO good and delicious like rubber gear shoud!

All trim like rivets, buckles, D-rings or the locking pin are made out of stainless steel. This is important because stainless steel is the only metal (well, except platinum, gold or aluminum…) which does not chemically react with rubber. This reaction, commonly called “latex cancers” makes the material soft and gooey and ultimately over time will make the material tear. Because all trim is made out of stainless steel, the restraints will withstand heavy use for many years. Stainless steel is also important because due to the design, the rivets touch the skin. Other materials could cause allergies but with stainless steel you are 99.9% safe.

Detail of the Logo and Stitching Laser Engraving

The restraints can be ordered in a wide range of different designs. The most simple is of course a single color followed by different colors on the outside and the inside or a different colored strap. There are two strip options: Either a thick stripe in the middle, slightly bigger than the belt holes or the thin stripe running 10mm inside around the belt (the option I chose for my restraints). Colorwise you can choose from the 4D Rubber range of 80 different shades to match your other gear or show your fetish by choosing a hanky color. Of course, they don’t have all colors in stock but can order them.

A nice design touch is a laser-engraved band of small lines which runs around every pieces of rubber, even the belt loop. This creates the look of stitching. Despite not adding anything functional to the restrains, it is a great design feature that adds to the overall high quality look and appeal of the restraints. Since they do the laser-engraving themselves you can customize the gear with your own tests, logos, etc..

These many customizing options mean of course that there is little to no stock. When friends ordered their harnesses and restraints it took about two weeks for their set to me made. So like with all (custom) rubber gear, plan a little bit ahead when you want it for a specific event like Folsom for example. If you want a combination or customization that’s not on your website, send them an e-mail.

Detail of the D-ring

Playing with the Superior Latex Restraints

Being standard cuff-style restraints, they are a good basis for almost every non-rope bondage layout. They are easy to handle and fetter the sub securely. You can really tell that they have been designed by perverts for perverts. With two D-rings you can easily brace the restraints in an elaborate rope or tension strap layout. The slightly convex design of the restraint body hugs the joint anatomically correct. The tapered tip of the belt makes threading it through the roller buckle and the belt loop quick and easy.

So far, they behave like every other leather and rubber restraint I have reviewed on this website. But due to being made out of soft latex they are the most flexible and tightest closable restraints in my collection. Since two layers of 0.8mm thick latex are glued together they have just the right level of stiffness to not flap or wobble around. The edges are not deburred but straight cut. Unlike with thick industrial rubber this is not a problem. None of my testees and friends who have been using Superior Latex gear for quite some time now encountered chafing on the skin or scratches on rubber gear from these restraints. Even when the sub is struggling hard, the restraints are detaining him without digging into the flesh. All things considered, they are comfortable and secure over extended periods of time.

The Tapered Tip of the Belt Threaded through The Belt Loop

Speaking of struggling hard, the restraints can take a beating. I have fettered subs who are notorious for trashing bondage gear in them and they still look like new. To really test them, I attached my suspension harness to them and put a sub in it. Another top friend incorporated them into a suspension bondage layout.  These are borderline cases and you should at least try the latter two not at home if you are not very versed in suspension bondage. But these little experiments show how strong these restraints really are.

The friends who have ordered these restraints all bought the locking versions. Once locked around the wrist and ankles of a full rubber gimp, he cannot take his gear off anymore and is encapsulated in his rubber prison. While this of course can also be done with locking leather restraints, being made out of shiny latex they do not obstruct the sleek, polished look of a rubber gimp but blend into it. When I got mine, the locking option was not available yet so my restraints are not lockable (early adopter problem). But since the premium is so little, I would always recommend getting to lockable version!

The Roller Buckle

Being made out of latex, this bondage gear requires the same care as every piece of rubber gear. Rubber is easily damaged by oils like in perfume and fat. So do not expose this gear to Crisco for example. Since human skin has a slight layer of oils and fat, you need to wash the restraints after putting them on bare skin (that being said, full rubber gimps with gloves do not have to do this ;)). I recommend special rubber detergent like VAST’s Wonder Wash for this but you can also use dish soap as long as it is not moisturizing or scented! Afterwards let it dry to avoid mold and treat it with silicone oil to care for the material and make it shiny. The gear should be stored in a dark, not too hot place.

Currently, these restraints are only available for neck, wrists and ankles. Hopefully in the (near) future the product range will be extended at least to biceps and thigh restraints (and maybe a fashionable thin biceps strap with small effect D-rings because even the smoothest of upper arm restraints is constraining when punch fisting someone…).

The Bulldog Harness on me

Superior Latex Harnesses

There is however a product category which borders restraints: Harnesses. If you have been following this website for some time, you know that I do not recommend fetish gear/ wear because which cut & fit turns somebody on is highly individual. However, I am going to make an exception here. Especially since a harness is only half fetish fashion accessory, half handle a top can grab to pull a sub towards him or hold onto while railing a bottom HARD.

For years I have been looking for a rubber bulldog harness. Since latex and rubber are fragile materials, none of the options available spoke to me. But I also do not like to mix leather and rubber, so wearing one of my leather ones wasn’t an option. Luckily VAST also makes three different harness designs in their Superior rubber: A classic bulldog (my favorite), a pet walking harness with a BIG d-ring for attaching a leash on the back and finally a Y-harness, perfect for attaching pieces of the Breather system to it or with a bit of rope (or tensions straps) to tie a torso down.

As I have written, style and fit preferences are highly individual. But if you are in the market for a heavy duty, intense play withstanding rubber harness, give them a try (on)!

Personally, I was surprised how well both bulldog and Y-harness looked on my body. When I have bought my first leather harness, I tried eight different ones before finding one that looked good on me…

Conclusion: Strongest, most flexible and customizable rubber bondage gear on the market.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Extremely strong yet comfortable to wear Limited range of restraints (for the moment) Wrist Restraints Starting at 119€
Ankle Restraints Starting at 124€
2 D-rings Collar Starting at 89€
High level of customizability Bulldog Harness Starting at 199€
Sleek design Y-Harness Starting at 199€
Pet Walking Harness Starting at 269€

Cross Body Bondage Harness

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The Mr S Cross Body Bondage Harness

Vendor: Mr S Leather

This piece of gear is (probably) the final evolution of Mr S’ journey to see how much they can take away from a straight jacket and still acchieve stron fettering: They started out with a tradition straightjacket than came the Vector Bondage Sleeves and now we have ended with the Cross Body Bondage Harness. Let’s see if it performs as exceptional well as it’s bigger, bulkier brothers.

Construction

The core of this restraint are two welded, stainless steel o-rings connected by a short, sturdy strap of welded bridle leather. Onto each or-ring a 25mm wide and 60cm long bridle leather belt is riveted. They are closed using a roller buckle and the holes are punched from the tip down 37cm with 25mm spacing.

There is another 35cm long strap connected to each o-ring. Onto it a bondage mitt made out of soft yet thick, unlined garment leather is rivets. The mitts are large enough even for large paws. Subs up to glove size 13 have worn these comfortable in my playroom. The mitts are closed with yet another leather belt with a roller buckle and a locking pin. Sadly it does not come with locks. You need a standard 3mm wire strength lock this toy. A the plus side, it does not only house one but two d-rings.

The leather is the same as on all of the other Mr S bondage gear I have: Thick garment leather for the bodies and latigo leather for the straps. While the garment leather is the same as on every other toy that I own, the latigo was surprisingly stiff. Compared to other brands it is still quite soft and the edges are not firm or let alone sharp. But the straps are not as soft out of the box as on other toys from Mr S. Two things to consider: First, leather is a natural material and maybe the one strap my toy was made out of was stiffer. So there is a good chance a different toy will feel different.  Second, this did not mean that my toy was not usable right away. The straps were still softer and more flexible than from many other, high quality leather manufacturer. They just took longer to break in. If you have this toy, please let me know how your straps were out of the box.

The Mitt Part of the Cross Body Bondage Harness

Playing with the Cross Body Bondage Harness

First, let’s see how you can put these restraints on because this greatly influences the experience a lot.

As the name indicates, this is a body restraint: You place the o-ring connecting strap between the shoulder blades and put the mitts left and right of the neck to the front. First, put the left hand into the right mitt and the right hand into the left mitt. Leaving it just this way is the most comfortable way. To limit the movement more threat the belt through the corresponding D-ring on the mitt to tighten. For extra less leeway, thread the belt through both d-rings. For extra, straitjacket-like tightness, include the biceps in the fettering layout.

Especially in the latter setup, the bottom cannot move much. But if you want it tighter (and have additional straps like from other Mr S straitjackets), you can connect both mitts using a belt.  A borderline case for really thin and flexible bottoms is switching the restraint around and crossing the arms behind the back. Except for the most yoga affine twinks this is stress bondage. So do it carefully and ask the sub about his circulation in arms and hands on a regular basis!

The Roller Buckle and Locking Pin

When I first got these restraints, I was a bit skeptical: Do I need yet another body restraint from Mr S? The Vector Bondage Sleeves are perfect for me! They provide the same level of fettering as a straight jacket yet leave most of the body accessible for play. Ok, for travel they are still a bit bulky and the price is steep (yet well worth the money for me!). But what other experience would the Cross Body Bondage Harness offer?

Despite the small footprint they have one offer one of the best feats of straitjackets: The high adjustability of the intensity and feeling. The arms hanging down in front of the body is surprisingly comfortable. Crossing the arms is also a quite natural position and despite the mitts cuffs not being padded, the wrists don’t get tired hanging down. So like a straitjacket, the basic position is comfortable and can be maintained for extended periods of time. But you can easily make the bondage more intense and uncomfortably – just on a straitjacket. Unlike the straitjackets, the Cross Body Bondage Harness is a bit of a one trick pony since the basic position is only the same. But if this position works for you and your sub, this harness is great!

One of the O-Ring with the Three Belts Rivited onto it

This is especially true if you are big gear heads! Even more than with the Vector Straitjacket Sleeves, the Cross Body Bondage Harness covers less of the gear and thus doesn’t add heat – especially useful at events like Pride or Folsom. It also lets you display more of your gear while rendering the sub helpless. A demographic which preferred these restraints over straitjacket (sleeves) were bikers because apparently the arms hanging in a cross before the body is more comfortable in that gear.

Unlike most common straitjackets, these restraints are lockable. The locks are “only” on the mitts. But once the arms are crossed and the mitts are locked, you cannot get them off the subs. So like with every piece of lockable bondage gear, there “click” of the closing lock is a big mindfuck for many subs and hugh turn-on.

Speaking of gear head a common reader question regarding the Cross Body Bondage Harness was how it works with other pieces of bondage gear, especially collars and head gear.  The straps leading to the mitts run far enough left and right of the head and neck not interfere even with bulkier collars like a posture collar or gas masks and (motorcycle) helmets. It also allows good access to the neck to grab and drag the bottom.

The Two D-Rings per Mitt

Regardless if your sub is I heavy gear or you are like me and prefer your sub naked, this piece of bondage gear is good for leaving the lower torso exposed. The sub can easily and comfortably be bent over for getting fucked or spread his legs for getting his balls busted (or have his junk subjected to other forms of CBT). Due to the position of the mitts, the nipples are not really accessible well. The movement of the arms are not restricted enough to keep him from protecting them. A nimble subs can even push nipple clamps off though that process is going to be painful.

Since each mitt features two d-rings, the Cross Body Bondage Harness is somewhat good for tying someone down. With a bit of rope you can more or less effectively tie the upper torso to the bed. But that is not really what this toy is for. However the d-rings are enough and placed well enough to tie your boy to a post or bondage frame in a bar or bound him together with another sub.

Conclusion: The smallest footprint toy possible to get almost straitjacket light fettering.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Strong degree of bondage on small footprint Only one bondage position

Doesn’t come with locks

 Mr S Leather $189.95
Lockable
Two d-rings per mitt

 

Classic Restraints

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The Cuffed Classic Restraints

Quick note: ToyTorture.com is still on hiatus until after Ascension. But I have been getting so many questions about the Cuffed Classis Restraints that I decided to take a break from the break and write this review today.

Vendor: Cuffed

Design

The Cuffed Classic Restraints is an entire system of sturdy restraints made out of rubber. Of course they cover the standard anchor points like wrist and ankle. But they also include thigh and biceps ones for total fixation (well, a body belt is missing but that can easily be made out of one big thigh restraint if you e-mail them nicely) or an extra long boot restraint to tie down MX boots up to wrist suspension cuffs.

The Kevlar reinforced Heavy Rubber Strap

The basic design of the Classic Restraints is a cuff-style like its brother the Rubstraints: The inside layer is made out of two layers of .8mm grade latex. This rubber either comes in classic black or in toyred, organge, yellow, white, green and blue. This makes them ideal to either display a hanky cover or add a dash of color to an all black rubber outfit. There is not padding like on many leather restraints but the rubber is soft enough to feel comfortable. On both side rubber tubing is encased in the same latex to create a cool piping look. The restraints come in two width: 64mm for the nimbler body parts like wrists and ankles and 101mm for the thighs. The thigh restraints have another layer of the industrial rubber covering the body. Otherwise it would warp too easily.

Onto the restaints body, a belt made out of a double layer of Kevlar reinforced black industrial rubber is riveted. For this two pairs of rivets are used between which a D-ring is housed. The wrist restraints has two D-rings, the ankle restraints have three, all with an internal width of 41mm. The thigh restraints feature five D-rings with 53mm with. One end of the belt is equipped with a roller buckle and a locking pin, on the other side there are rivet-reinforced belt holes. If you want to use to locking pin, you can fasten the belt until the third last hole.

The Roller Buckle and Locking Pin

The locking pin has a 4mm hole so most standard locks for restraint locking should fit. If you don’t have locks, I would not recommend buying the ones Cuffed is selling! They are made out of brass, the standard for locks even in the BDSM community – at least when it comes to leather. Brass is one the metals that can cause rubber cancer which is an unfixable! It frankly baffles me that a shop specializing in rubber is selling brass locks. If you want to lock these restraints, either buy aluminum or stainless steel padlocks (my choice are Abus Titalium but there are many other options) or use seals often used on chastity cages.

Like all rubber and latex items, these restraints require special care and handling. Most important: Keep them away from oil and fat, including and especially Crisco! These substances will destroy the rubber! Since there is always a thin film of oil on the human skin, rubber should be washed after each scene either using simple, non-moisturizing dish soap or a special rubber detergent (my detergent of choice is Wonder Wash). Before storing them, make sure they are COMPLETELY dry (often water gets trapped in the tubes used for the piping) and seal the surface either with talcum powder or silicone lube to keep the rubber from oxidation. But regardless how well you take care of the Rubstraints, how thoroughly you clean and protect them from oxidation, they – like all rubber and latex times – will over time get old and finally break! So use them often and well to get the most fun out of them.

The Triple Layer Thigh Restraint

If you want to learn more about rubber and latex, the perfect care and its appeal, check out my Rubber 101.

Playing with the Classic Restraints

This part of the review starts the same way as the review of their Rubstraint brother did 1 ½ years ago: These are rubber restraints the work and can take a beating – just like high quality leather restraints. Period. Most of the force of struggling and fighting is caught by the heavy rubber belt which can take a beating! One testee said “How secure can rubber restraints be?” He was surprised how well they tied him down. And he got really horny when he heard the clicking sound of the padlock through the locking post, realizing the he was now inescapable fettered with rubber in his latex catsuit.

The D-Ring Housing from the Bottom and the Top

Since the basic design with the latex piped lining is the same as on their brothers, the restraint can be worn on bare skin also when struggling hard without chafing.  But there is one major difference between the Classic Restraints and the Rubstraints: The latter has the industrial grade Velcro patch to align both ends of the restraints which is a nifty feature. While the latex of the body is soft and smoth, the tubes for the piping are stiff. This leads to one of the restraint breaking out when putting it on or even slipping when the sub is struggling. When wearing the cuffs are an accessory and putting the wrist restraints on on your own this is especially annoying. It sometimes took me several attempts to shackle the cuffs on my sub and chuckled a bit seeing an experienced to failing for a minute or so to fetter me until his pride allowed him to ask for a third, helping hand. Since rubber (ceteris paribus) does not get broken in, it is going to stay this way. Yes, it is annoying but over time you learn how to handle these restraints.

The Metal Gate Width Difference of the Rubstraint (left) and Classic (right)

Like on most restraints, D-rings are used as attachment points. And since each Classic Restraint has at least two, there are ample of fixation and bracing possibilities. They are wide enough to house more than one rope, tension strap or carabiner and even chains up to 6mm wire strength can be run through them.

An important thing to note is that the metal gate behind the roller buckle which aligns the belt is narrower than the gates on the Rubstraints! Because of this the belt system of Rubstraints is not compatible with the Classic restraints.

Since the Classic Restraints are made out of the same material as the Rubstraints the smell almost obscenely off latex! To protect them from sun light, I store them in a box and opening it releases a cloud of intoxicating rubber smell. And being made out of rubber they can be shined like rubber gear. If they get a bit dull, just take out silicone oil and shine them as glossy as you like them.

Conclusion: Sturdy and colorful rubber restraints.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sturdy enough even for heavy bondage scenes and strong subs A bit difficult to put on and keep aligned Wrist Restraints 139€
Ankle Restraints 139€
Will age over time and will eventually break
Colorful restraint body
Intense rubber smell and feel Biceps Restraints 139€
More than one anchor point Thigh Restraints 259€
Locking Pin Boot Restraints 269€
Suspension Restraints 329€
Collar 139€

Fetters Leather Arm Binder

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The Fetters Arm Binder

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The center piece of the Arm Binder is a restraint body made out of soft and deliciously smelling garment leather. While it gently wraps around the sub’s body, at 1mm thickness it is sturdy and strong! The restraint roughly has the shape of a sleeping bag’s bottom. The opening at the top is 42cm wide and tapers over the length of 69cm to 12cm at the bottom. This lavish amount of room allows the restraint to be used on all body types, from beefy muscle bulls to slender twinks.

To adjust the sizing and increase the level of bondage, there are two mechanisms. On top of the body there is a rivet reinforced lacing ladder which goes 2/3 down. It is underlaid with a sheet of leather so hair or skin folds do not get caught in the lacing. Onto the back three loops – one on top, on 1/3 and one 2/3 down – out of sturdy bridle leather are riveted. Through these loops belts with roller buckles are threaded. Again, the belts are long yet the holes are punched so far that they are long enough for bigger builds yet can be closed tightly for petit physiques.

The restraint body is fettered to the torso with a simple X-harness using roller buckles. One pair sits on each side of the lacing, another of the leather sack’s back. The roller buckles are held in place by riveted leather loops for a secure fit. The loops are made out of the same 30mm wide bridle leather belts as the harness and the tightening belts.

The Roller Buckle on the Stiff Version of the Bridle Leather Belts

And now we are coming to a part difficult part in this review: The bridle leather on the Arm Binder I am basing this review on is stiff and uncomfortable. Because of this I reached out to Regulation/ Fetters and they assured me that they switched the leather to a softer and thus more flexible variety earlier this year (I have gotten my Arm Binder in March 2021). To make my Arm Binder more usable, I actually commissioned new belts and the harness in the new, softer leather but due to Covid I have not yet gotten these.

Long story short: As you can read below, I like the Arm Binder a lot because they are a hot and kind of degrading toy. But especially for long term scenes, they are only fun when the softer leather is used! As soon as I have gotten the new belts and harness, I will annex this review. As always, if you want to be kept in the loop about such things, follow me on Twitter.

Lateral Belts for Extra Secure & Tight Bondage

Playing with the Leather Arm Binder

Putting the Arm Binders on is easy: The sub simple needs to put his arms behind his back and you pull the restraint body over them. To make it easier, the bottom should fold his hands. The bottom of the leather sack is quite tight yet it is spacious enough for larger hands. But if you want to tie the sub’s hands together, leather cuff restraints or special ones like the awesome Fetters Handlock take up too much space. So if you feel the need to tie them, I recommend soft Velcro quick restraints. But to be honest: Such additional restraints are purely for the mindfuck. Once the harness and the restraint body are connected, there is little chance for the sub to get his arms free.

For safe and long-term play, the harness should rest lightly against the torso and the restraint body should hang as loosely as the arms would. There should be a little wiggle room so the sub can move his shoulders before they become stiff and to ensure circulation. You can tighten the straps more, pulling the arms up. This is a form of stress bondage and should not be done over extended periods of time and monitored closely. The same rules apply to the belts. Tighten them loosely for lightly restraining the sub while increasing both the bondage feeling and inescapability. Tighten them more and you end up with intense stress bondage. Please keep in mind that through the leverage of the belt you can quickly wield strong force on the elbows and shoulders. Both are frailer joints so be careful and don’t overdo it force and time wise!

The Lacing for a Tight Fettering

So much for health and safety. Now on to the fun part. If you fetter the belts in a non-stress tightness, the Leather Arm Binder are great “mobile” restraints. You can put your sub in them for extended periods of time, render his arms useless while he can walk around and has his body more or less exposed for play.  This makes the arm binder the perfect bar/ club restraint. Unlike straitjackets which are equally comfortable over long periods of time but limit the access to the torso, the bottom in these can be easily be expose to chest and gut punching, TT or CBT. Naturally, it is a good piece of bondage gear for group scenes when a sub needs to be “parked”.

On my first look at the toy, I would have wished for D-rings on the side. But in play, I rarley missed them. In the cases where I had to secure my bottom laterally, I simply used carabiners or shackles on the tightening belts as anchor points. Yes, D-rings would be more refined and keep the restricting belts from movement. But they are not essential for enjoying this restraint. As I have written: The Arm Binder is a perfect toy for mobile play. If you want to secure a sub safely laterally on his arms I would recommend  Fetters’ Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts which have plenty of D-rings.

At the Bottom there is a D-Ring for multiple Nifty and Nasty Intricacies

The one D-ring at the bottom is a nifty one though. For a bit of CBT, it can be connected to a chastity cage or a ball stretcher. Since the arm movement is quite limited, the chances of an accident are low. My preferred bondage layout though was running a piece of rope or chain through it to for connecting two ankle restraints. This will properly limit his step range and keeps him from running away. If you want to humiliate him even more, use the D-ring as the anchor point for the leash instead of the collar, focusing the attention onto his groin.

Finally, if you sub needs fuck machine training, this is a good piece of bondage gear to keep the arms out of interferings way when the sub is on a bench. Even when bound in doggy position, the arms can be used to pull forward and escape the machine a bit. With the arms behind the back (preferably lightly suspended upwards) there is little wiggle room. And quite frankly, the image is very hot!

Conclusion: Effective body restraint from light to stress bondage.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable and secure to wear even over extended periods of time Few lateral D-rings would be great Regulation £264.99
Bondage intensity finely adjustable
Hot looking bondage positions with good access to “pressure” points

Suspension Hand Slings

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The Mr S Suspension Hand Slings

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Construction

The body of this restraint pair is a curvated piece of bridle leather straps.  The bottom is slightly convex to follow the autonomy of the hand’s bottom; the top is protracted. While the body is made out of sturdy leather, it is padded and lined with soft garment leather. Unlike on their cuff-style restraints or the Four Buckle Hand Restraint (more on that later), the padding is rather stiff. This supports the wrist and keeps is upright yet makes the restraints comfortable to wear. For perfect and tight fit on the wrist, the restraint is tightly closed using Velcro and then secured with a roller buckle belt. Next to the buckle is a welded D-ring.

The top of the protracted tip is folded and secured with two rivets to house a tooled aluminum bar. On both end of the bar, panic carabiners with big, welded O-rings on the end connect the bar to another strap of bridle leather. This is threaded through the two O-rings. Between two rivets which hold the strap together sits another panic carabiner.

The Roller Buckle and D-ring on the back

Like all panic (or security as they are also called) carabiners they can turn to adjust a bit to the sub’s movement. There are no sharp edges to prevent damage on ropes. The release for the opening is tooled and textured for best grip even in stress situations.

Playing with the Suspension Hand Slings

When I have gotten these restraints this summer, they marked the end of era for me: For almost 10 years I have been using the Four Buckle Hand Restraints from Mr S for any kind of bondage and fettering. They were actually part of my first ever order from Mr S. But, when fettering someone on a standing position like on a St Andrews Cross, the Four Buckle Hand Restraints were not the best choice. The D-ring positioning was not perfect if you needed to hold onto something and panic carabiners were always a given in case the bottom collapsed (which luckily has never happened to me yet but happens more often than you probably think).

Connection of the Panic Carabiners with the Aluminum Bar

The Suspension Hand Slings fix all that! It is rare that a piece of (specialized) bondage gear instantly becomes part of my standard (or in this case flogging) play bag but the Suspension Hand Slings did just that. They were designed for the anchor point being above the restraint so there is no stressful horizontal pull on the wrists like when the D-ring is parallel to the arm. The layout and material choice is the perfect sweet spot between rigidity and stiffness for wrist support but not cutting of circulation and allowing enough leeway for the fingers and hand to move bit. Even when broken and getting softer in, they retain enough stiffness.

Stressful situations like being subjected to pain or being suspended can lead to circulation problems even on fit subs. Because of this, when doing suspension or just having a subs fettered standing, you should always use panic carabiners yet I rarely see them in public play spaces. Luckily, in these restraints they are built in. They look and feel like professional sailing equipment though sadly there is no kN value printed or engraved on them. In order to release them, twist the capsule 180° and even under pull they will open. The capsule is kept in place with a coil spring which is just strong enough to keep it in place but prevents the capsule from turning. Because twisting the capsule is such a satisfying feeling (yeah, I know that sometimes I am weird), I often just play around with the capsule. I have not counted how often I turned it but I have not noticed the spring getting any softer or the capsule developing any give.

The Velcro Fastener next the Padded and Garment Leather Lined Inside of the Restraint

Speaking of carabiners: Despite the rigid fettering, due to the twisting carabiners, there is a bit movement possible for the sub to work out sensations. This is important because swift, uncontrolled movements caused by pain could otherwise lead to injuries when the wrist is constrained by the cuff. Especially when whipping someone, I have subs doing pull-ups in these restraints because the bars provide such good support. So when doing extreme pain play I highly recommend also to put the ankles in bondage.

While this toy is called Suspension Hand Sling a word of caution is in order: Suspending someone solely vertically from their wrist, puts extreme stress on the joints, especially the wrists and the shoulders. There are some very well trained subs with extreme upper body muscles who can endure this stress position for a limited time. But neither your sub not you should over-estimate what he can do. So when doing suspension, check-in more often as usual.

The Panic Carabiners

I have also gotten a few reader questions about horizontal suspension with these restraints. In theory it works when the bottom is lying on his back. But you have to thread a tension strap or rope through the D-ring on the body to the major pull of the arm weight is caught there. But still what little pull is left, will make the tip bend upwards causing stress on the wrists. So for horizontal suspension I recommend the Four Buckle restraints.

If in a scene the need for another wrist restraint arises and you have these restraints in your play bag you can detach the part with the carabiners from the bar completely and use what is left as a standard restraint cuff. But since the restraint cannot be turned on the wrist, the D-ring always stays on the bottom of the hand which is a bit unpractical.

Conclusion: Best and most secure restraint for fettering hands above the hand.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Secure and save to use even in extreme bondage situations One trick pony Mr S Leather $239.95
Professional panic carabiners
Extremely well made and thought out

Fetters Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

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The Fetters Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Like on all Fetters leather bondage items, the first thing that strikes you is the strong and rich smell of high quality leather. Second, you will notice that like all bondage mitts from Fetters they are sold in pairs (it pains me that I have to point that out when looking at the competition…). The main body of each restraint is a 640mm long mitt made out of soft leather. The circumference at the top is 400mm which is large enough for most subs though body builders might want to get a custom version.

Detail of the Top D-ring

For about 2/3 of the body’s back there is a lacing to fetter the mitts tightly to the arm. The lacing using nylon string is strong enough for a tight fit and restricts the arm movement. Yet it is not strong enough to completely keep the elbow from bending. What really keeps the restraints bound to the arm are two 25mm wide bridle leather belts with roller buckles, one going around the wrist, the other going around the biceps sitting 70mm below the top of the mitts. The top strap is not riveted onto the body but runs to a pair of D-rings sitting, one on each side of the lacing. There are two more pairs, each 120mm apart. The wrist belt is riveted onto the mitt. On top of the mitts another strap is riveted perpendicular onto the belt. With this strap and two pairs of rivets a D-ring is housed at the bottom of the mitts. A final D-ring can be found on the top, next to the lacing.

Detail of the Bottom D-ring

Playing with the Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts

Through the size and the area these mitts cover, I consider them “body bondage” items. Putting them on a sub takes a bit of work and time. But it is also part of the fun with these restraints. In the process is also a sense of drama in it, taking away more and more the ability of his arms to move and letting him feel the contrast between the soft touch and tightening of the leather – especially if the sub has a leather fetish. Just like with the Bishop Head Harness, “ritualistically” putting the mitts on sets the moods and helps getting into headspace.

Through the D-ring layout, these mitts can naturally work as a cuff restraints substitute in almost any situation. Most fun was had by my testees in spread eagle position or when having their arms tied upwards laying in the sling. In this position the degree of bondage can easily be increased by connecting the D-rings to the sling chains.

Detail of the Lacing and the lateral D-ring pairs

But the full sleeve mitts really start to shine when you connect the top D-rings to a (bulldog) harness and leave the bed (room) with your sub. With just loosening the lacing a bit, adding a strap to connect the bottom D-rings and interconnecting the lateral D-rings on both mitts, you have a veritable straitjacket sleeve substitute. For a stricter layout with less wiggle room, tie the arms to the side using a full body bondage harness. Then thread a belt through the bottom D-rings and fasten it around the thighs and the leather gimp can (somewhat) walk about without moving his arms. Personally I enjoyed most using the Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts in a bondage frame. The many attachments points inside the frame in combination with the many D-rings enabled me to fetter a sub securely enough to flog him.

Detail of the Roller Buckles

Since I like the esthetics and the helplessness, I tried turning the full sleeve mitts into arm binder by connecting the bottom D-rings with a shackle and the other D-rings with belts. The layout worked but a word of caution is necessary: Do not tighten the belts too tightly or too quickly. Unlike restraints for this specific purpose like the Fetters Leather Arm Binder you can easily get to a degree of tension that puts too much stress on the shoulders and elbows or restricts blood flow to the hands. So if you are a fan of “tighter is better”, I highly recommend adding specific arm binder restraints to your collection. A safer (and what turned out more fun) way is running a piece of rope through both bottom D-rings and a D-ring at the bottom of a parachute with spikes. This will limit the arm movement too – sooner or later.

Detail of the Lower Roller Buckle is connected to the Botto, D-ring

Another setup a top testee did but I would not recommend it connecting the top D-rings to a collar. The chances of the sub strangling himself or causing disc injuries are too high in my opinion.

Of course, through the many D-rings, these bondage mitts are an ideal addition to rope bondage. The simplest ways is tying the top D-rings into a torso harness or the bottom ones to the thighs. But an experienced rigger will surely find more creative ways to make use of all the D-rings like body harness or tying two subs together a rope-inexperienced person like me cannot imagine.

If the mitts with the lacing are not strict enough, I recommend buying two 40cm – 50cm (depending on the leeway you want to allow) spreader bars. Connect one end to the bottom D-ring, the other to the two D-ring holding the biceps strap in place to severely limit the arm movement.

Conclusion: Restrictive and versatile piece body bondage gear.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Covers large body area for strong bondage and leather feeling Takes time to put on sub Regulation £275
…. but lacing alone only has limited restriction
14 D-ring in total
Connection bottom and top D-ring with a spread bar easily increases bondage degree massively …