Schlagwort-Archiv: Parus

Leather Open Chin Hood No 2411

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The Parus Open Chin Hood

Vendor: Parus

Construction

The hood has a roughly anatomic shape with grommets at the bottom of the nose and a big cut-out for the mouth and the chin. It is made out of soft, fine-grain leather. Because the leather is not lined on the inside, it is very flexible and when tightened really hugs the skull. The construction is a traditional four-panel construction with seams in the middle and one running over each ear. Production-quality-wise this hood follows the high standards you can expect from Parus: All edges are finished with piping so the rough leather edge can’t irritate the skin or be felt uncomfortable; at the seams the leather has been folded, the fold sown together and the flaps sowed onto the body so there are also no rough edges there. To fetter the hood on the sub’s head, you lace it with a piece of leather string. There even is a piece of leather to cover the gap so even bigger heads are completely encapsulated in leather.

While I have bought this hood in classical all black leather, Parus offer this hood in many different colors and with contrast color panels. There is also a version with an attached collar which has a D-ring on the front and can be locked.

Detail of the Mouth Opening, the Breathing Grommets and the Piping and Seam Build Quality

Playing with the Open Chin Hood

The open chin is one of the classic hood designs out there. It not only robs the sub of his sight, leaving him at the mercy of his master, but unlike just using a blind fold, the encapsulation of the face in leather takes away the individuality and just leaves a mouth.

This reduction to just being a serving mouth is a hot turn-on for people. In my circle of friends this hood quickly become popular for leather gimps: While a full hood covers the entire head, it leaves the sub “useless”. With the open chin hood a gag can seal the mouth when not in used and easily be accessed again. One testee uses this Parus hood when bringing new subs into the gimp scene. From a head-harness over muzzle and hood with open eyes and mouth, the open chin hood is the last hood before the completely closed one. The large opening allows for unconstructed breathing so if the sub in training starts to panic, he can not only get fresh air easily but can be comforted by the touch of his master with leather separating them.

Detail of the Lacing at the Back

The most common types of play this hood can be used for are face-fucking and all kinds of tongue worship play, boot-worship and sneaker cleaning.  Unlike similar hoods from other manufacturers the opening for the chin of this Parus model is large enough to not constrict the chin, so the mouth can open up really wide. So taking the entire tip of the boot into the mouth or serving thick dicks is only limited by the sub’s jaw.

For leather fetishists, the open chin hood is a great toy for glove over mouth play. The grommets are easy to cover with a leather glove and the leather around the nose is soft enough for squeezing the nose that the breath play aspect of GoM play can easily be done. Furthermore it is a great mindfuck to have the last piece of bare skin gradually covered by soft leather until the entire head is wrapped in it.

A friend of mine got the yellow version of this hood and uses it for piss play, especially in party situations where his sub is reduced to being the courtesy urinal. While the hood works for this kind of play, I do not recommend it. The high salt-level of piss is bad for the leather. I would recommend getting a rubber hood for this kind of scenes.

Conclusion: Well made hood with isolation qualities which still leaves the mouth usable.  
Pro Cons Where to get Price  
Attention to detail makes this hood comfortable to wear over extended periods of time   Parus 129.99€
139.99€ (either different color or contrast color)
High quality leather
Even larger heads can be covered completely in leather 155.00€ (locking collar)

 

Parus Isolation Hood No 2406

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Vendor: Parus

The Parus Isolation Hood No 2406

Construction

The hood is made out of a single layer of soft European sourced leather. There is thick padding covered with soft leather from behind the ears to the nasal bridge covering both half of the face. From the part all the way down there is lacing to close the hood tightly. To fetter the hood even tighter around the head there are four belts with roller buckles running through riveted leather loops: One around the neck, one over the mouth, one over the eyes and one running from the chin over the back of the head. At the middle of the collar, at the top of the hood and one on each cheek there is a welded D-ring. At the bottom of the nose there are two grommets to allow easy breathing.

The hood is one size fits all. Even though my head is average size the leather strap to lace the hood is too short but it was easily replaced with a longer one. Despite the leather being soft through the sturdy and thus stiff belts and thick padding the hood is rather stiff. In order to mould the hood to the sub’s head and make it soft and comfortable it takes a couple of hours. The body heat and sweat will do the rest.

Detail of the Lacing and the Roller Buckle of the Belts

Playing with the Parus Isolation Hood

With the lacing and the belts the hood can really be fettered heavily onto the head. Despite the little amount of light which bleeds through the nose grommets once you start lacing you quickly feel the world around you being blocked out. So some people who are not used to such intense bondage start to panic right away. In this case I recommend only using the belts to slowly accustom them to the sensation. But once you get used to it, being put into the hood becomes an intriguing part of the scene itself. While the soft, high quality leather is getting wrapped tighter around the head it emits a rich smell. So there is a feeling of being immersed in leather.

Detail of the D-ring and the rivetes Leather Loops

Like all isolation hood it doesn’t take away all the senses. But the padding muffles the sounds (to block out even more use earplugs) and creates the right amount of pressure. Not uncomfortable or putting pressure on the eyes but noticeable enough to create a strong bondage sensation. This in combination with the lack of sight creates a feeling of detachment from the surrounding. For a full immersion the hood needs to be made soft like described above. When the leather is still a bit stiff there can be light coming through the nose grommets. But once the hood becomes a little bit more flexible the padding over the eyes shuts the light out.

The loss of sight and heaving with the warmth and pressure sensation can lead to disorientation of subs. So I recommend not fettering them standing up without having something to hold onto respectively being tied to something. Especially when lying down the D-rings can be used to tie the head down completely. When doing so the top D-ring should be the one tied the strongest so that sub doesn’t suffocate when struggling.

Conclusion: Intense isolation hood
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Intense Bondage Experience Needs long time to break in Parus 219.99€
Adjustable
Many D-rings Can be too small for large heads
High Quality Leather
Disclaimer: This toy was sent to me by Parus for an honest and unbiased review.

Parus Restraint Set Heavy No 2702

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Vendor: Parus

Parus Restraint Set Heavy No 2707

Parus Restraint Set Heavy No 2707

There is quite a large number of people asking me for a more intense yet everyday usable bondage experience. Something more practical than a straitjacket yet beyond the standard cuff style restraints. After some research I came across this restraint set from Parus which they kindly gave me for testing purposes. So, let’s see if it lives up to the big expectations.

Construction

The basic construction follows a basic cuff style restraint. Yet with a width of 10cm these are the widest restraints I have come across so far. The body is made out of stiff saddle leather. Onto it not one but two belts out of strong saddle leather are riveted. The belts are closed by roller buckles and can be locked with locking posts which are designed to take 3mm shackles. Under each belt three stainless steel –rings are hold in place by two rivets so you have a total of six d-rings per restraint. All metal parts are covered by the neoprene padding which is lined with soft Nappa leather. The Nappa leather is one piece that goes all around to the front of the body. A seam is stitched around the padding so there is a soft piping like edge of soft leather around the firm body which prevents skin irritations even when struggling hard.

Detail of the Stichting Quality

Detail of the Stichting Quality

All restraints are made out of top notch European leather. High quality leather is so important to Parus that they rather produce a smaller number of bondage gear but to compromise the quality standards. This level of quality can be felt and smelled. The rich leather smell is intoxicating for any leather lover. But not only the leather it top class also the craftsmanship. The stitching is flawless, the D-rings are welded and the attention to detail is astonishing. The is even a seam running around the belts to make the thick leather even stronger.

Due to relatively long belts all restraints can be adjusted in a very wide range so even the smallest and largest bodies can be properly restraints.

Minimal Circumference Maximal Lockable Circumference Maximal Not Lockable Circumference
Wrist Restraints 13cm 22cm 30cm
Ankle Restraints 21cm (reserve for prob. another hole) 32cm 39cm
Collar 31cm (reserve for prob. another hole) 46cm 51cm
Detail of the Roller Buckle and the Locking Posts

Detail of the Roller Buckle and the Locking Posts

This wide adjustment range leads to interesting usage scenarios: The collar is large enough to fetter slim thighs or calfs, the ankle restraints work very well as heavy duty upper arm restraints if the biceps is not too beefy.

Playing with it

These restraints are a bit miraculous: When I first got them I was wondering how long it would take me to break them in with the stiff body leather. But to my own surprise they were very easy to use out of the box!

Once fettered they really lived up to what I was looking for:  The padding which is soft enough to be comfortable for a long period of time yet firm enough to feel the stiffness of the body’s leather when struggling. Due to being wider than other restraints and more torsion-resistant moving your ankle and wrist is more difficult creating a deep bondage sensation. The collar is so wide that in most cases if can work as a posture collar. Besides the feeling the wide restraints especially with all posts locked are a great look for a bondage bottom. A testee walked around a day in Berlin with all restraints fettered and he said that is created a very deep bondage headspace.

Detail of one of three D-Ring Pairs per Restraint

Detail of one of three D-Ring Pairs per Restraint

From a practical point of view these restraints are all you can ever ask for in a bondage scene. With six d-rings per restraints you have enough attachment points for the most elaborate setups. Of cause the individual d-ring are with a width of 26mm smaller than the ones on other restraints which annoyed one testee. The rest of the panel including me could not comprehend that. I could easily fit two carabineers or two 20mm tension straps through one d-ring.

To sum this set up: I am so convinced by the quality and bondage sensation that I am actually thinking about buying a second set, sell the wrist restraints and use the collar for just above the knee of the calfs and the ankle restraints for the upper arm.

Conslusion: Intense bondage sensation combined with everyday wearing capability.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Most intense bondage sensation on a cuff style restraints I have ever experience Restraint Set Heavy No 2702 249€
Wrist Restraints No 2106 125€
Ankle Restraints No 2211 129€
Versatile: Collar works as posture collar or calf restraints, ankle restraints on biceps Collar No 2308 74€
Exceptionally well made out of high quality materials
More d-rings than you will ever need
Lockable

 

Buyer’s Guide To Collars

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ToyTorture.com has always been sort of a reflection of my own play style and my own desires manifested in toys. As authentic and honest reviews at that approach might create the flaw of it is that I am missing out on entire categories of toys. Sometimes I get asked about these categories over and over. Chastity is one of them, collars is another. Since a collar is the strongest bondage device out there yet I am not really into them I decided at the end of the Heavy Bondage Special to give a short overview of the collars out there. Especially in the paragraph about the symbolism of collars I am making a lot of generalizations. Please do not feel offended if your individual perception is different but celebrate it as the diversity that is the heart of our community. After that I briefly talk about the different materials collars can be made out of. The last and main part of this article are showing different kinds of collars. I sorted the collars into two categories: The first are decorative collars which primarily serve a symbolic purpose and through their designed are not primarily designed to be integrated into play. The latter category are functional collars which are made to be played with.

 

The Symbolism of Collars

Collars have a strong symbolic meaning in the BDSM community. They are a sign that a person belongs to someone. It is common for top who wants to establish a deeper and long-term orientated relationship with a bottom to put a collar around his neck to show him and the world that the sub belongs to him and is no longer free. This act is called “collaring”. Being collard usually implies a interdependent relationship: The top promises to give the sub something usually guidance, protection and play in exchange for the subs devotion, obedience, trust and loyalty. Due to the powerful contract which a collar symbolizes it is a very special piece of gear which is treated unlike any other. Usually only the top is allowed to put it on and take it off, most of the time also only the top may touch it. Touching the collar of a sub without asking the top for permission is considered highly offensive and even hostile by some people. In some high protocol situations it is even forbidden to talk to a collard sub because you are violating the property of another top. Also in a high protocol environment it is not uncommon for subs to walk around with a collar around his neck but with an open lock. This is a signal that he is open for a top to collar him. Closing the lock just for fun or laughs again is offensive because the sub probably hopes to get at least some of the affection listed above from the persons who closed the lock.

Materials

Collars can be made of nearly every fetish material out there. Most common are leather collars. Because the material is skin friendly and to a certain degree can absorb sweat it is best for long term wear. Rubber and neoprene lack this quality so wearing it for extended periods of time can lead to skin irritation, especially when wearing a collar out of stiff industrial rubber without deburred edges on bare skin. The last common material to mention here is metal. I have seen collars being made out of all different kinds of metal. However I would recommend only ones being made out of stainless steel or aluminum because even when exposed to sweat they do not rust. Other metals like cooper or steel oxidizes. Because a collar through constant movement experiences some physical stress corrosion prevention applied to steel like chrome or zinc wears off and the collar can rust again. Of cause noble metals like gold or platinum do not rust but you have to be quite the posh kinkster to afford such a collar. Metal collars come in form of chain, chainmail, rings or steel cable. When it comes to chain you can choose between welded and forged chain. Welded chain industrial made and thus cheaper and has a deburred weldseam. Depending on the quality the deburration is not as good as it should be so there is a potential for scratches when wearing a collar. So before wearing it check the seams of there are not rough edges.

More uncommon materials I have seen collars made out of are braided rope, jeans cloth, bike chain and tires.

Decorative Collars

Chain

Probably the most common form of the collars and thus comes in various styles (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). All have in common that they are closed by a pad lock which is mostly worn up front. The most common pattern is the anchor chain which is made out of round links which either come in long or short versions and in various thicknesses. Even when using a small pad lock the link size is usually so large that this kind of collar can’t be worn discreetly under a shirt. Depending on the personal style the chain can be worn longer or tight around the neck. The advantage of this chain is that you can easily attach things to the collar using pad locks or carabiners. Depending on the pad lock quality you can grab and pull the sub on this collar.

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Chainmail

Chainmail is a material where small metal rings are linked together to form a mesh-like surfaces. Collars out of this material are lighter and smaller and thus more discreet than chains. Of cause they are also more fragile and should not be pulled on. A nifty feature of the Mr S Aluminum ones is that they come in different colors so you can use them a bit as a hanky. If you can a bit more weighted feeling try out the stainless steel one.

Torquator Collar

Stylewise somewhere between a chain pattern and chainmail this collar was originally designed to restrain dogs. So this collar is popular by dog players especially of wild ones. When pulling onto this collar please be careful because serious injuries can be the result.

 

Cable Lock

Another discreet option is the cable lock collar from Recon. The collar itself is made out of coated steel but since there are no moving links the coating will probably will not rub off keeping the cable from rusting. The two endings are made out of stainless steel with colored rubber accents so again you can show your favorite kink. Unlike the chainmail collar this one is also closed with a lock which has a great psychologically effect. The lock and the collar are small and discreet enough to be worn under a dress shirt during work yet to frail to be pulled on.

Rope Collar

If a closed look is too much of a statement or you don’t like the idea of metal around your neck (after all a collar is all about the headspace), Mr S came up with a rope collar. It is made out of black braided rope and closed with a leather strap and a non-locking roller buckle. If you ask the guys at Mr S nicely the can probably make you this collar also in other colors

Tolan Collar

This is basically an ergonomically shaped ring of steel around the sub’s neck. It is nearly seamless and rather sleek so it can be worn under a business shirt without showing off or attracting attention. Since it is made out of stainless steel it will not rust.

Jougs

I am not sure if to put jougs into this category or the play category because wearing them for an extended period of time is definitely a punishment! Jougs or iron collars are made out of piece of steel, sometimes lined with leather for additional comfort. They are closed by padlocks, integrated locks or screws. Sometimes they come with d-rings welded onto them for added play possibilities. Sometimes following antic models they already have cuffs for the hands attached or even also feet welded with chains onto them. Another version are double rigid irons for the neck and the wrists for real stress bondage.

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The most sever iron collars I know off are made by Parus in Munich. I already wrote a Christmas gift tip about them last year. They are really well made, almost seamless with the integrated lock and so heavy that with some models I would like to recommend consulting your doctor about disc problems before putting them on!

Regardless of what kind of iron collar you are getting when shopping for a joug please watch for deburred edges otherwise severe abrasions can happen!

Functional Collars

Bondage collar

Another quite common type of collars (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). They basically are like a cuff style restraint just larger to fit around the neck. So very often you can get matching collars to your existing restraint set. Being made for play they come with d-rings to attach the sub to thing or restraint to the neck. Depending on the individual style some are locking which adds a sense of bondage. A pro tip: If you want to fetter a large boot, p.e. an MX boot, and your restraint set’s ankle cuffs are too small try out a collar. Most of the time they are large enough and will serve you well as a boot restraint.

Fetters Posture Collar

Fetters Posture Collar

Posture collar

A posture collar (look at Mr S or Regulation) is a more intense form of the bondage collar. It is quite wide and usually padded, sometimes it also has an anatomically formed chin rest. The effect of this design is that tilting of the head and nodding is getting extremely difficult locking the head in one place. Usually such a collar will also have d-rings and there are locking versions out there.

Chocking Collar

More a breathplay toy than just a simple collar please use this one with caution! This collar is basically a latigo leather belt that is closed by a rolling buckle tightly around the neck. On the other side of the belt is a small metal loop with a roller feature through which the belt exits. In that end a d-ring is added onto which a leash can be attached. If you pull on the leash the collar will tighten and chock the person wearing it.

Shock Collar

Shock collars were originally designed to train dogs. Onto a nylon collar a remote controllable box with two electrode pins is attached. Usually this kind of collars come with different intensity settings. I implore you to take advantage of these different settings and don’t start out too high! The shock boxes are designed to train even dogs which have thick fur and skin. On human skin they can leave burn marks or even damage the nerve system! There are fetish versions out there which are not so powerful but being a power bottom and pain pig myself I can see the temptations of “the real deal” especially when it comes to dog play. Yet still please be careful. Not sexual kink is worth losing your health permanently.

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Wrist to neck Restraint

Not really just a collar but the leather version of an iron collar with attached restraints. It is a leather lined locking collar onto which two locking wrist restraints are riveted. These rivets allow for some movement around its axis but otherwise the head has to go where the hand wants to be. Especially with added bondage mitts this will leave the sub quite helpless.

Collars Accessories

Especially with the raise of pup and dog play in the last couple of years collar accessories have gained popularity. Most commonly dog tags are used either in their original purpose to mark the dog and write his name on it. But I have also seen a bouquet of different colored tags as hankies. Of cause a dog needs guidance and sometimes restraining so leather leashes become quite popular.

Parus Heavy Straitjacket

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Front View of the Parus Heavy Leather Straitjacket

Front View of the Parus Heavy Leather Straitjacket

During BLF Easter I had the chance to quickly try out the Parus Heavy Leather Straitjacket. And since we are in the middle of the heavy bondage special I want to quickly share my experiences with you.

Rear View of the Parus Heavy Leather Straitjacket

Rear View of the Parus Heavy Leather Straitjacket

The first impression you get when holding this piece of bondage equipment is that is it massive. Being made out of and lined with high quality, thick, fine grain European leather in combination with welded steel D-rings and roller buckles the total weight adds up to 7kg. The entire jacket his heavily padded. The padding is quilted and as every Parus product the manufacturing is spotless. This weight and the padding create a feeling of being encased in leather which leads to a tight bondage feeling without tightening one strap. Once that is done you either start to sink into a deep bondage headspace – or like me start to experience claustrophobia. Both effects are enhanced once the arms are fixed. You can do this either like classic straitjacket style with the arms crossed in front of the chest or tie them down parallel to the torso using the d-rings on the side.

Side View of the Parus Heavy Leather Straitjacket

Side View of the Parus Heavy Leather Straitjacket

With 3 D-rings on the collar and 3 on each side there are enough possibilities to limit the movement of the sub even further. What sets this straitjacket apart from other besides going down up to nearly the knees is the laced up codpiece and the easy access to the ass. So despite having rendered the sub completely immobile you can still play with him very well. What this model lacks are tit flaps but I am positive that the guys at Parus can do a custom design if requested.

The straitjacket comes as a one-size-fits-all. I am 1.88m high and average built and it fit me quite well. Through the many straps it can be adjusted to nearly every body size.

This straitjacket retails for 1.449€ and is a Parus exclusive. Since it is made to order it takes up to 4 weeks to be made.

Why I haven’t reviewed products from Sinvention, Fetters or Regulation yet

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In the last couple of month I have been getting quite some messages asking me why I feature only products from a limited selection of manufacturers (most of my toys comes from Mr S, Mister B, SlingKing and McHurt) and thus why I don’t review products from this manufacturer or why I have ignored that one for my desiderate section (Which has gotten a bit neglected). There are a number of reasons out there and because they partly play a role why today’s Christmas gift tip nearly came without pictures I decided to elaborate them:

  1.  Toy Selection Pattern
    Against widely spread believes I buy most of my toys myself. I am thankful to Mister B, HML and UberKink who sometimes provide me with toys to review but the majority of my toys from my own money. When it comes to getting a new toy I am fantasy driving. Most of the time I have a specific scene or sensation in mind I want to create and for which I am lacking the right “tool”. So if I have gotten a toy for a specific sensation it is unlikely I am going to by one from another manufacturer just to compare them. Also the collection reflects my personal play style and my fantasies and fears.
  2. Money
    This leads to the next issue: Money. I am still a student currently without a job so my toy budget is rather limited. Next to toy categories I am currently not covering at all – like hoods or breath play – especially when it comes to bondage and impact toys I know that there slight variations of toys I already own out there which for my intention of having just the right toy for the right sensation at hand (or just for the convenience of having a second or third restraint set) would be great to have. But with my limited budget I simply can’t afford the luxury to have a deep AND wide selection of toys. So for the moment I am going for wide in the field that interests me and neglect the rest. And even with stuff that has become interesting lately like some hoods they simply are out of my budget for the moment.
  3. Shopping Style
    Due to the two above factors my purchasing process is rather sophisticated: When I have a fantasy I start looking at websites and from what I know of material and design properties choose a relevance set of toys that might deliver the desired sensation and fit my budget. Once the relevance set is done I go out and take a look at the toys I consider and try them out; I rarely purchase toys online. This is of cause difficult with stores being based in London, Atlanta or Canada.
  4. Review Process
    I have been getting messages asking why I don’t write about toys that have been used on me in scenes. When I gather notes for a review I am not going under in the scene. I am focusing on how the toy performs, how the sensation alters when used differently, etc. As much as I enjoy the reviewing scenes they are not as emotionally intense as normal ones and usually don’t get the top what he wants from me as a sub. So I stage “review” scenes where I interview the tops and subs afterwards. Of cause I do have an opinion on a toy used on me after a scene. For example I certainly can say something about the Padded Locking restraints from Mr S (I like them a lot) but that opinion is too indifferent for a review. So even though I have experienced toys from Sinvenstion, Fetters and Regulation (these are the three manufacturer I get the most questions about reviews for) I can’t say more than “I liked this and disliked that in that specific scene.”
  5. Copyright Issues
    This isn’t an issue for reviews but for desiderates. For the desiderate section I am posting pictures from the manufacturer/ vendor on my website and I have to obtain the right to do so from the current copyright holder! In the last two years I have approached over three dozen web shops and manufacturer several times and only got the permission from a handful to use their material. Most of them didn’t answer at all even so I stopped bothering them.
    Please note that some of the manufacturers named here have given me the permission to use their material for my website.

All of these factors can of cause lead to the impression that I am favoring certain manufacturers. This is partly true and as much I love the ones I am currently featuring I would much rather present a broader spectrum of toys and manufacturers to the community. So in the meantime while I am trying to win the lottery and fill my dream dungeon with all the dream toys, if you want to see a specific toy reviewed or just want to support my side by sending me toys, here is a list of toys that I am interested in but are for various reasons not on my purchasing list:

Sinvenstion – Arm Immobilizer Splints

Fetters – Calf to Thigh Restraint

Regulation – Leather Bag Hood

Regulation – Chest Binder

Mister B – Closed Leather Face Mask

Mister B – Iron Whips Wocen Cat 8×4 Long

Mr S – Asylum Muzzle

Parus Leather – Restraints No. 2106 & No. 2211

HML – Wide Bondage Belt

ErosTek – ET302R