Schlagwort-Archiv: Leather

Fetters Tight Leather Hood

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The Fetters Tight Leather Hood

Vendor: Regulation

Making a good hood is an art not mastered by many! This is my first piece of headgear from Fetters. So I was curious if it could live up to the same level of quality I know from their other leather gear.

Construction

The Tight Leather Hood is a four panel hood made out of thick garment leather. The leather is soft and smells rich and delicious just like high quality leather gear should be. Through seams and molding the hood follows the shape of the human head. Below the nose are two small grommets which are large enough for easy breathing even in heavy scenes. The mouth part is reinforced with another piece of leather so it stays in shape over time.

The Nose Grommets and Pin-Hole Eyes

On the back from the neck to almost all the way up to the crown runs a piece of thin nylon rope through cinch rings. They are high quality and sturdy so they can withstand a lot of force when lacing the head tightly and/ or forcefully. A leather wedge below the lacing keeps the hair from getting caught in the lacing. Regardless if you choose the hood to be lined with leather or not, the wedge will always be an unlined, single layer piece of leather.

Besides the leather lining there are several customizing options how the eyes and nose opening are designed. The hood can be outfitted with a snap-on blindfold, a mouth cover (optionally with a pecker gag) and a locking collar. The range of sizes is quite large in theory, ranging up to a collar size of 20’’. But the lower end is at 14’’ circumference which especially for petit subs and ladies might still be too wide.

The Lacing on the Back for a Snug Fit

Playing with the Tight Leather Hood

As the name suggests, this hood tightly wraps around the head and follows the contours of the face without being uncomfortable.  Since the lacing goes up all the way to almost the crown, its tightness can be locally adjusted so the hood can accommodate different head shapes and sizes. Being made out of soft yet thick garment leather you really get the feeling of being encapsulated in it. For an even stronger leather feeling I highly recommend the leather lining. It is hard to put the difference into words but the feeling of the lined hood tightening around the head is more compact, more intense. While the double layer of leather shields the bottom a bit from the surroundings a medium-light touch is still felt.

To my astonishment the fit of this hood is very good despite being only made out of basically four panels! Even the nose section which is often a problem fit most testees well, regardless of the nose was large, wide or pointy. As with every piece of leather gear, it will adapt to the wearer over time so if the nose does not fit perfectly right away, wear the hood over extended periods of time and sweat and warmth would mold this section into shape.

Detail of the Four-Panel Construction

The level of gimpdom is determined by the features chosen. There is not really much to say about the open and no eyes options. The pin-holes of this eye option are 8mm apart. This is just enough for most people to still see almost unobscured. You can add a blindfold which is attached using snap buttons. This of course distracts a bit the clean, smooth gimp look of the hood. Despite being made out of soft leather there is a small gap between the blindfold and the mask itself. This gap is not wide enough for the bottom to see anything but some stray light reaches the eye. For a 100% block-out, I recommend a dedicated blindfold.

The open mouth can also be covered either by just but a patch of leather of a pecker gag. The snap buttons are strong enough to keep the gag locked inside the sub’s mouth even when he tried to push it out with force. The gag option is only available for the round mouth.

The round mouth has a diameter of 45mm. This is large enough to place even a large gag inside. But if you are well endowed it will probably be too small for your dick. Even when your dick is smaller, this hood is not really made for vigorous face fucking. The cutout is just the bare leather edge and not finished with piping. Due to the reinforcement of the mouth part, the edge is stiff. Over time it will get softer but especially in the beginning you can get a bit of leather burn if you fuck too quickly.

The Unfinished Mouth Opening

For the slot mouth I have gotten only second hand opinions. According to a sub from the UK, once the hood is broken in well, you can push a gag through it. But for a dick it is to narrow and uncomfortable.

The final option is the lockable collar. This only makes sense when you want a cleanish look (as clean as it gets with an attached lockable collar). Neither any of the friends who own this hood nor me did choose it because it limits what you can do with the hood. If your sub or you are collared, you probably already have a collar you want to wear with this hood. A looser chain collar might work, but leather collars are too bulky. Since the leather is so soft, this hood even works with a posture or a choking collar. So my advice is not to add the collar just to stay flexible of what you can do with this hood.

Conclusion: Highly customizable, high quality, tightly fitting leather hood.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Tight yet comfortable fit Edges of the mouth (and eyes) are not treated/ finished Regulation £275 + options
Many customizing options
High quality leather & build quality
Very sturdy lacing with leather hair guard

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer I – Cuffed Leathstraints

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The Cuffed Leathstraints

Only four Sundays till Christmas! This mean the pre-Christmas season starts in Germany and each Sunday another of the four candles is lit on the advent wreath. It has become a time-honor tradition that on the four Sunday leading up to Christmas, I give a little hint what to gift fellow kinky fuckers.

The Different Connectors of the Toolbox Bundle to Attach the individual Leathstraints to each other

Almost exactly two years ago, I reviewed the Cuffed Rubstraints which I liked a lot. The wide restraints with solid metal trim and Segufix locking showed that they mean business! They are perfect for complete rubber bondage and look great on pictures. But to be frank, beyond that, I rarely use them because rubber has its limitations and needs a lot of care compared to leather.

All Leathstraints from Head to Toe

So I was very excited when Cuffed introduced their Leathstraints earlier this year. The same design and functionality I knew from the Rubstraints but made out of leather: Still Segufix locked, still with the awesome stainless steel gates to connect the restraints with each other. The range covers almost the entire body from basic wrist and ankle cuffs over a collar up to biceps and thigh restraints. Just a waist belt is missing.  There are connectors in different lengths available.  Prices start at 199€ for the collar and 209€ for basic restraints; the connectors cost between 37.90€ and 74.90€. There are different bundles available which are still on Black Friday sale if you are quick.

Being made out of leather they are a bit pricier than rubber. From the pictures the leather and stitching look high quality. But since leather is a very different material than rubber, I have to play with these in person for an educated opinion.

I really would love to review them because I do not have any Segufix-lockable leather restraints in my playroom (#ToyCollector)! So, if you want to gift me something for Christmas, the Leathstraints Head to Toe set along with the Toolbox connector bundle is something I would very much appreciate.

Agitation Collar

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The Mako & Tiger 2“ Agitation Collar

Vendor: Mako & Tiger

Design

What makes this collar stick out that it’s HEAVY! Without the lock it weights slightly over 600g. This is (thin) metal collar territory! The weight comes from its heavy duty construction: In the middle of this multi-layer construction is the collar itself, a piece of bridle leather is lined with firm yet comfortable padding which is covered with garment leather.  The garment leather comes in black, red or blue. The piping of the lining is slightly wider than the bridle leather so even when the collar is fastened tightly, the unburnished edges don’t scratch the skin. Below the lining two screws (not rivets!) each hold the flaps in place which house the massive, burnished steel roller buckles and guiding loops for the belt.  The belt surrounding the collar is made out of two layers 3.5mm thick bridle leather. The two ends of the belt are punched with two rows of three holes each.

The D-Ring with the Branded Protective Flap

In the center of the belt which marks the back of the collar a leather flap embossed with Mako & Tiger’s paw brand sign is sewed. It covers the thick 6mm thick stainless steel D-ring which is 45mm wide and 32mm deep.

What makes this collar an agitation collar is the grip what is sewed onto the back of the belt. It is as wide as the belt and in the middle also double-layered. When I first showed my testees this collar they are a bit puzzled that it was sewed and not riveted/ screwed onto the belt as a seam for them meant something that could come apart. The stitching is so high quality, the yarn to thick and strong that none had fears that things would come apart, even with the most unruly, agitating subs!

The Supplied Padlock locking the Agitation Collar

For locking the collar, there are two options: The more elegant one is the Segufix lock. On this version the belt holes are pushed over a Segufix lock pin and shackled with a standard Segufix lock. But of course any sub with access to a strong magnet and a free hand can undo this. More secure and heavy looking is order this collar without the pin. Then you pull the shackle of a padlock through both belt ends and close it. This way the collar is most definitively secured around the slave’s neck and you can use your keyed-alike padlock set you already have in place in your dungeon. But don’t lose the key! The thick, multi-layer design makes cutting through the collar with safety sheers or emergency knifes almost impossible. If you don’t have a key-aliked padlock system in your playspace,

The Sewed on Multi-Layered Grip

The collar also comes in two sizes: 50mm/ 2’’ width which I have or 75mm/ 3’’ which can double as a posture collar! When choosing the collar width, please be realistic. Because of the many layers of thick leather, it takes forever to break this collar in and it will never get as flexible as a “normal” bondage collar from Mr S for example. So if it fits too tightly between shoulders and chin, the unburnished edges of the stiff leather can scratch a bit, not to talk about the metal trim of the buckles.  When ordering the collar, you have to supply a neck circumference. There is some leeway up and down this sizing so it fits somewhat smaller and bigger collar sizes. But in order to work well, the fit should be good. So more than any other piece of bondage gear, this is really something the sub should own for a perfect fit instead of a dom keeping in his playroom as a one-size fits all. If you want to do the latter, 16’’ is the most common collar size. Smaller twinks have around 14½’’, big bears around 17’’.

 

One of the Two Roller Buckles

Playing with the Agitation Collar

 

Like many BDSM toys, agitation collars come from the vanilla world. They were originally designed to train wild puppies or control sharp dogs – the bio not the fetish kind.

Even “just” the 50mm version has an air of heavy duty around it! The many layers of thick leather, the big, burnished roller buckles, the big padlock dangling in the front (or the – ideally – red Segufix lock cap) creates an atmosphere of seriousness. This is also enhanced by the way it is fettered around the subs neck: Since the belts meet in the front, a kneeling slave has to look up to his master while he adjusts the two buckles so it sits right in the middle of the neck and ultimately locks the collar. Like with all lockable gear, hearing the click of the lock adds a lot of psychological momentum. This is even enhanced when during play the dandling lock hits the sternum. If you want to facilitate that, buy a long-shackled lock with a thinner wire so it moves around more. If you want to mark you dog visibly, you have to lock the dog tag also shackle because there is no D-ring on the front.

Example of the Many Bridle Leather Layers

Besides humiliating and restricting the neck movement through the collar, the piece de résistance  is the grip on the back. It really allows to – somewhat – comfortably grab the neck of the sub – either holding him back or drag him towards where he has to be (like a hole to rim or a dick to suck…). The collar distributes the pulling force quite evenly. Of course, it is felt strongly but this Agitation Collar is the most comfortable and thus safest one I have experienced so far. This of course also applies for attaching a leash to the D-ring at the back. So if you have an unruly puppy that wants to jump at people, keeping him on a short leash works well with this collar. Despite being so thick and stiff, the collar can be worn comfortable over extended periods of time.

The Double-Layered Grip to Pull or Hold the Slave

The “somewhat comfortable” is directed towards the dom. Being made out of STIFF bridle leather, the grip is not really comfortable to grab with its unburnished and undeburred edges. I tried to soften mine using neatsfoot oil but had limited success. Over time it will get a bit more broken in, but since it is double-layered at the center, it can only get so soft. At least the sharp edges are not a problem if you like me play almost always (leather) gloved as a top. A bigger issue is the width, especially on the 3’’ wide version: The top has to grab a 75mm wide, not really compressing piece of leather. For guys with smaller hands this is almost impossible. I have already given feedback to Mako & Tiger and maybe in the future there will be an about 1’’ wide bridle leather grip sheathed with garment leather. I assume especially female (pro)doms would appreciate a nimbler handle.

Conclusion: Heavy & heavy duty collar with grip to control unruly slaves!
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Grip & D-ring to pull & hold back the slave securely & safely Grip is somewhat uncomfortable 2’’ Wide Version $350
3’’ Wide Version $550
Great craftsmanship
Very heavy duty feel
Lockable

Bastinado Special Restraints

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Bastinado Special Restraints

Vendor: McHurt

Construction

The Bastinado Special Restraints are two ankle cuffs connected in the middle by sturdy stitching. Due to using stitching instead of a rivet they cannot twist. The leather of the cuff is not padded and 50mm wide. The cuffs feature an incredible ankle size range between 16cm and 28cm circumference. So they fit equally on petit ladies and big bulls. For easy handling the cuffs are closed using a roller buckle which is covered by a leather tongue so the metal does not press into the skin. Between the cuffs a 25mm wide and 26cm long belt is securely sown.

The toy comes with another connected cuff with 20mm wide leather straps closed by roller buckles. This small restraint is made for fettering the big toes together. Again, at a circumference range between 5cm and 11cm it should fit most feet. Unlike its big brother there is no belt between the cuffs.

Comparison of the Edge Finish of the Two Parts

McHurt is famous for basic yet heavy duty BDSM toys. They source their toys in Europe so no problem with Chrome-6 leather like from cheap Asian mass manufacturer or sloppy stitching. But the leather is initially stiffer than I would expect it to be and the inside of the ankle cuffs is lined with sued which edges have not been finished. That McHurt’s supplier is capable of a higher level of refinement is shown on the toe cuff which has perfectly finished edges – except for the leather tongue which underlines the buckles. All things consider at 49.80€ you get great value for your money! But just don’t expect the level of refinement you get at Mr S or Regulation/ Fetters.

Detail of the Roller Buckle

Playing with the Bastinado Special Restraints

Hitting the soles of the feet has many names: Bastinado, falaka, dǎ jiǎoxīn or foot whipping. It has an equally long tradition in Arabian, Asian and Western punishment culture. However, if you are not good with ropes, it is hard secure the feet in a way that they don’t flinch so you can deliver the blows precisely. As their name indicates, the Bastinado Special Restraints were designed just for that.

The Sued on the Inside of the Ankle Cuffs

The big cuffs are for tying the feet of the bottom together. The wide leather is perfect for distributing the strong force legs can exert evenly on the ankle so they are comfortable yet secure. Since the restraint has not padding or body but the belt is the restraint, there is little wiggle room. So with the feet tied next to each other, the soles form an even and parallel impact surface. This is basis for controlled and evenly hit impact play. But beyond this job well done, it gets a bit difficult.

The lacking level of refinement sadly also shows how cutting corners impairs the functionality of this toy. The strap between the cuffs is supposed for tying the ankle cuffs to a bar some (!) beds have as a design feature at the foot end. Most of these bars are purely ornamental so not really made for detaining struggling feet. But even if I ignore the scarcity of this design element and its common fragility – even though it is necessary for these cuffs to properly work! – the belt position doesn’t make sense! You have to twist it 90° in order tie it to a bar running perpendicularly to the cuffs. Of course, attaching it between the cuffs is cheap and still it somehow does the trick, but it is another example of lacking refinement and cutting corners due to cost.

The Inside of the Toe Cuffs

There is a similar issue on the toe cuffs. They keep the toes securely together to form an even impact area. But the bottom can still move his feet backwards and forwards. A small D-ring for attaching a tension strap to keep them from wiggling would have been great!

Do these issues make the Bastinado Special Restraints a bad toy? No! As already written, they are great value for money. You just need to invest a little bit of thinking and effort to work out the kinks.

  1. If you don’t have a bar to attach the restraints to, run tension straps though the roller buckles and laterally fetter the cuffs to the bed frame. Don’t use the rectangular gates as attachment points! They are not welded and will bend open (replacing them with welded D-rings [or welded gates like on the Rubstraints] would be the best solution tbh).
  2. You can use a big shackle as an improvised attachment point. If the thick metal wire is a bit uncomfortable for the bottom, a narrow and soft tape sling tied in a bowline also does the trick. I have tried carabineers but they tend to turn and slip, making it more uncomfortable.

An Improvised Attachment Point for the Toe Cuffs

I cannot review this toy without talking about impact play on the feet itself. Like the hand, the foot has many delicate bones which easily shatter. There is fat tissue and almost no thick muscle tissue to dampen the kinetic energy of the impact blow. So don’t let yourself be fooled by movies where people use thick bamboo canes to punish a guy! Instead use riding crops, thin canes with medium blow intensity, floggers of strap out of not too stiff leather or padded paddles. You can also flick wooden, delrin or aluminum blades but no full blows. The danger of inflicting permanent damage is too high.

Of course, with the feet kept in place, they are in a perfect spot for having wax poured on them. Or playing with a Wartenberg wheel. Or prick soles on combination with a rolling pin. Or e-stim. There are many safe options out there to torment the soles. Just don’t be over enthusiastic when it comes to actual bastinado 😉

Conclusion: Innovative special purpose restraint with practical shortcoming.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique design Attachment solution of the ankle cuffs is only hypothetical McHurt 49.80€
Can be used on wide range of body types
Good value for money Toe restraints have not attachment point
No d-rings
Unsophisticated manufacturing

Mako & Tiger Agitation Collar

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The 3“ Agitation Collar from Mako & Tiger

Sometimes I get the question if I knew toys to really HANDLE a sub. Especially in the aggro and prison play scene there is a demand for toys to grab the bottom/ brat/ resisting switcher or top and drag him to his knees, the dick or hold him down while destroying his ass. For this kind of scenes even a short leash will not do it because it has too much slack. There used to be a few gags with a grip in front but teeth are surprisingly frailer than you might expect. So they weren’t the best idea.

Collars with a handle have long been popular in dog training but to my surprise have not been adopted wildly into the kink world. One model that comes with high praise from friends but I have not yet had a chance to try out myself is the Agitation Collar from Mako & Tiger. When I studied in the USA some 9 years ago I had the pleasure of meeting Mako. He’s a heavy (bondage) player and thus knows how high quality gear needs to be designed for heavy scenes.

The Agitation Collars can be Locked using a Pad or a Segufix Lock

The body of this collar is made out of thick and sturdy bridle leather. Depending on the version it is either 50mm or 75mm tall. The latter can probably double a bit as a posture collar. The inside is lined with padding wrapped in soft garment leather for a comfortable fit. For quick and easy shackling the collar is adjusted and closed with a roller buckle. For secure collaring this piece of neck gear can be locked and comes with a Segufix option.

But the piece de resistance is the wide handle in the back of the collar. It is made out of the same bridle leather but friends who have been using this collar for quite some time now told me that is it treated with mink oil and thus comfortable to hold onto. My friends also tell me that the draft is distributed evenly even when tugging on the collar with force. The same should also apply when a leash is attached to the big d-ring which is laterally placed below the handle.

The Handle and D-Ring on the 3“ Agitation Collar

These are big claims which I look forward to test in a review in some point in time. This curiosity especially applies to the fact that there are no rivets used to construct this collar. Everything is “just” sown together which if done well is sufficient. I have already a heavily resisting bottom in mind to try this gear out on.

But for the moment I trust the recommendation I get from experienced, heavy duty players I have known for years. So when you are in the market for a strong, heavy duty collar with a grip to handle your sub, check out the Agitation Collar from Mako & Tiger. At $350 for the 2’’ version and $450 for the 3’’ version they are not inexpensive but from what I have been told worth every cent as gear that will last you for years of heavy play.

Cross Body Bondage Harness

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The Mr S Cross Body Bondage Harness

Vendor: Mr S Leather

This piece of gear is (probably) the final evolution of Mr S’ journey to see how much they can take away from a straight jacket and still acchieve stron fettering: They started out with a tradition straightjacket than came the Vector Bondage Sleeves and now we have ended with the Cross Body Bondage Harness. Let’s see if it performs as exceptional well as it’s bigger, bulkier brothers.

Construction

The core of this restraint are two welded, stainless steel o-rings connected by a short, sturdy strap of welded bridle leather. Onto each or-ring a 25mm wide and 60cm long bridle leather belt is riveted. They are closed using a roller buckle and the holes are punched from the tip down 37cm with 25mm spacing.

There is another 35cm long strap connected to each o-ring. Onto it a bondage mitt made out of soft yet thick, unlined garment leather is rivets. The mitts are large enough even for large paws. Subs up to glove size 13 have worn these comfortable in my playroom. The mitts are closed with yet another leather belt with a roller buckle and a locking pin. Sadly it does not come with locks. You need a standard 3mm wire strength lock this toy. A the plus side, it does not only house one but two d-rings.

The leather is the same as on all of the other Mr S bondage gear I have: Thick garment leather for the bodies and latigo leather for the straps. While the garment leather is the same as on every other toy that I own, the latigo was surprisingly stiff. Compared to other brands it is still quite soft and the edges are not firm or let alone sharp. But the straps are not as soft out of the box as on other toys from Mr S. Two things to consider: First, leather is a natural material and maybe the one strap my toy was made out of was stiffer. So there is a good chance a different toy will feel different.  Second, this did not mean that my toy was not usable right away. The straps were still softer and more flexible than from many other, high quality leather manufacturer. They just took longer to break in. If you have this toy, please let me know how your straps were out of the box.

The Mitt Part of the Cross Body Bondage Harness

Playing with the Cross Body Bondage Harness

First, let’s see how you can put these restraints on because this greatly influences the experience a lot.

As the name indicates, this is a body restraint: You place the o-ring connecting strap between the shoulder blades and put the mitts left and right of the neck to the front. First, put the left hand into the right mitt and the right hand into the left mitt. Leaving it just this way is the most comfortable way. To limit the movement more threat the belt through the corresponding D-ring on the mitt to tighten. For extra less leeway, thread the belt through both d-rings. For extra, straitjacket-like tightness, include the biceps in the fettering layout.

Especially in the latter setup, the bottom cannot move much. But if you want it tighter (and have additional straps like from other Mr S straitjackets), you can connect both mitts using a belt.  A borderline case for really thin and flexible bottoms is switching the restraint around and crossing the arms behind the back. Except for the most yoga affine twinks this is stress bondage. So do it carefully and ask the sub about his circulation in arms and hands on a regular basis!

The Roller Buckle and Locking Pin

When I first got these restraints, I was a bit skeptical: Do I need yet another body restraint from Mr S? The Vector Bondage Sleeves are perfect for me! They provide the same level of fettering as a straight jacket yet leave most of the body accessible for play. Ok, for travel they are still a bit bulky and the price is steep (yet well worth the money for me!). But what other experience would the Cross Body Bondage Harness offer?

Despite the small footprint they have one offer one of the best feats of straitjackets: The high adjustability of the intensity and feeling. The arms hanging down in front of the body is surprisingly comfortable. Crossing the arms is also a quite natural position and despite the mitts cuffs not being padded, the wrists don’t get tired hanging down. So like a straitjacket, the basic position is comfortable and can be maintained for extended periods of time. But you can easily make the bondage more intense and uncomfortably – just on a straitjacket. Unlike the straitjackets, the Cross Body Bondage Harness is a bit of a one trick pony since the basic position is only the same. But if this position works for you and your sub, this harness is great!

One of the O-Ring with the Three Belts Rivited onto it

This is especially true if you are big gear heads! Even more than with the Vector Straitjacket Sleeves, the Cross Body Bondage Harness covers less of the gear and thus doesn’t add heat – especially useful at events like Pride or Folsom. It also lets you display more of your gear while rendering the sub helpless. A demographic which preferred these restraints over straitjacket (sleeves) were bikers because apparently the arms hanging in a cross before the body is more comfortable in that gear.

Unlike most common straitjackets, these restraints are lockable. The locks are “only” on the mitts. But once the arms are crossed and the mitts are locked, you cannot get them off the subs. So like with every piece of lockable bondage gear, there “click” of the closing lock is a big mindfuck for many subs and hugh turn-on.

Speaking of gear head a common reader question regarding the Cross Body Bondage Harness was how it works with other pieces of bondage gear, especially collars and head gear.  The straps leading to the mitts run far enough left and right of the head and neck not interfere even with bulkier collars like a posture collar or gas masks and (motorcycle) helmets. It also allows good access to the neck to grab and drag the bottom.

The Two D-Rings per Mitt

Regardless if your sub is I heavy gear or you are like me and prefer your sub naked, this piece of bondage gear is good for leaving the lower torso exposed. The sub can easily and comfortably be bent over for getting fucked or spread his legs for getting his balls busted (or have his junk subjected to other forms of CBT). Due to the position of the mitts, the nipples are not really accessible well. The movement of the arms are not restricted enough to keep him from protecting them. A nimble subs can even push nipple clamps off though that process is going to be painful.

Since each mitt features two d-rings, the Cross Body Bondage Harness is somewhat good for tying someone down. With a bit of rope you can more or less effectively tie the upper torso to the bed. But that is not really what this toy is for. However the d-rings are enough and placed well enough to tie your boy to a post or bondage frame in a bar or bound him together with another sub.

Conclusion: The smallest footprint toy possible to get almost straitjacket light fettering.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Strong degree of bondage on small footprint Only one bondage position

Doesn’t come with locks

 Mr S Leather $189.95
Lockable
Two d-rings per mitt

 

Fetters Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

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The Fetters Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

Vendor: Regulation

Sometimes a review takes strange ways until it gets published here. Last week I have gotten a message asking for my opinion in these two toys. Having been using them for years, I wanted to send him the link to the corresponding review. But it turns out: Despite having been using them for years, I have never reviewed them! Let’s fix that!

Both Straps Unrolled

Construction

The design of the Scrotum Strap is quite simple: It is a 355mm long strap of belt leather. The lower 130mm length is 30mm wide, forming the body which then tapers to 220mm long and 15mm wide belt. Through the belt 7 holes with a 15mm center-to-center spacing are punched of which only 5 are usable. Onto the body a locking post and two 13mm wide d-rings under a slap of leather are riveted. Between the locking post and the first d-ring is a slot to thread the belt through. The Scrotum Strap comes with a pad lock.

The Sharp, Undeburred Edge of the Scrotum Strap

The basic design is also reflected in the material and manufacturing: The belt leather is stiff and neither burnished nor deburred. This means the edges are sharp until the leather is well worn in which will take quite a while. Since I rarely use the Scrotum Strap due to having several other toys to choose from, mine is still stiff and a bit sharp. If you want to speed up the breaking in-process, rub a little bit of neatsfoot oil on it and knead the toy while watching TV.

The Weight Anchor Strap borrows the basic design idea of the Scrotum Strap but develops it further. The body of the toy is made out of two layers of soft garment leather. The height depends on which version you get: The one buckle which I have has a 33mm tall body, the two buckle a 56mm tall one. On each side of the body a 180mm long and 14mm wide strap of belt leather is riveted. At the bottom a Ø19mm welded o-ring is riveted.

The Overlapping Body Protects Ball Skin from Getting Caught by the Belt

It is closed around the balls about the same way as the Scrotum Strap. On top of one strap a 240mm long and 14mm wide belt is riveted perpendicularly, while on top of the other a small roller buckle is. The belt goes through a slot inside the body and thus grips around the cuff wrapping around the sack’s neck.

Just like on the previous toy, the manufacturing is a bit basic: The perpendicular edges of the body is just bare cut-off leather without any treatment, the slot is not whipped. Since both toys are basic CBT toys you can overlook these shortcoming but considering the price compared to a set of cuff-style restraints I would have expected more.

Playing with the Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

The Padlock to Close the Scrotum Strap

As simple as the design is, it is ingenious: You wrap the body around the sack’s neck, thread the belt end through the slot and tighten it until you reach a snug yet comfortable fit. Then you thread the belt through the d-rings and close the toy by locking it onto the sub.

As long as the leather is not broken in, the adjustment process is cumbersome: Due to the stiffness it takes some adjustment to get it around the balls tightly. Threading it through the d-rings is a nightmare because of the friction. For me, this created a bit of a vicious cycle because I had easier to use toys which I then preferred and thus never broke the Scrotum Strap in.

This is a shame because it is a nifty little toy with much potential. The smallest diameter of it is 24mm, the largest 42mm so it covers a wide range of possible scrotums. As written above due to the position of the locking pin and one of the d-rings you cannot tighten it further than the third to last hole. A friend of mine has been using his Scrotum Strap for half a decade on a regular basis. It is broken in and thus soft. He uses it with some of his slave as a reminder of belonging by simply locking it around the balls for a day or so. Unlike a chastity cage, the Scrotum Strap will not impair any everyday activity but once locked cannot be taken off. So it is a nice, psychological reminder that someone else has control over you when a locked collar, wrist or ankle chain are not an option. If you are a bit of a sadist, locking the Scrotum Strap around your sub’s balls can speed up the breaking in process. The warmth and moisture of the junk in combination with the movement will soften the leather up over time. Until then, it will be uncomfortably to wear and create some abrasions and burns.

A Shackle can be Used to Increase the Capacity of the D-Ring

For more action oriented play, the Scrotum Strap is a secure and tight anchor point on the balls. So in a full body lockdown it can be used to tie even the balls in place. In more mobile settings, I like to connect the ankle restraints to it to restrict the sub’s movement. Of course this also works with wrist restraints but my favorite is connecting the Scrotum Strap with a Handlock for minimal slack wrist-to-ball restraints.

If you want to connect the Scrotum Strap with another restraint bear in mind since the belt is threaded through the d-rings the space between the apex and the belt is only 5mm! While this might be enough for a padlock, if you want to use carabiners use them together with shackles. Another alternative are folded nylon tension straps.

The O-Ring at the Bottom of the Anchor Staps

The Weight Anchor Strap attaches to the body the same ways as the previous toy: Thread the belt through the slot and around the body to the roller buckle. Since there is not friction and the ball cuff’s body is made out of soft leather that easily wraps around the scrotum, this is quite easy. On this toy you can use all the punched holes creating a internal diameter between 27mm and 42mm. If your sub has smaller or less meaty balls, you can punch additional holes to tighten the restraint even further. For meatier balls, you have to just give it a try since the body is very soft and only stiff in the middle where the belt runs around, I managed to put the toys even on bull balls.

The softness in combination with the wide range of adjustability enables a really secure fit that is comfortable over extended periods of time even the tug on the toy is big. As the name of the toy suggests, it is made for weights. Most people use parachutes for this kind of play but they are only good for so much pulling force. If you add a momentum by letting the weight swing, the snap fastener either pops open or a ball slips through the thin ring the parachute creates. This does not happen with the Weight Anchor Strap. Since it comfortably yet securely compresses the ball’s neck, it stays in plays up to weight amounts way beyond which is medically advisable (the maximum amount of weights I have suspended from a sub’s scrotum using this toy were 10+kg. Don’t try this at home!). If you want to use climbing carabiners instead of threading rope or tension straps through the o-ring, you will have create a larger opening using shackles like with the above reviewed toy.

The Anchor Straps‘ Roller Buckle

The straps are riveted to slightly to the body that they don’t move. But they are long enough to allow for a pendulum movement. The movement stops quicker than on more freely hanging chains but the stiffness also transfers more of the kinetic energy onto the balls for an intense tug.

Of course you can also incorporate the Anchor Straps into bondage layouts by connecting them to restraints. But I found that the straps and the o-ring create more slack than the Scrotum Strap. But this is a very minor point of a toy hoarder. If you just have this one, it will perfectly work for tying down the balls or limit the subs movement by connecting either or both ankle and wrist restraints with this ball cuff.

Conclusion: Secure ball cuffs for heavy play
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Secure fit even during hard play Stiff leather which takes long to break-in Regulation £24 (Scrotum Strap)

£30 (one buckle)
£35 (two buckle)
Adjustable to wide range of ball sized Adjusting is a bit cumbersome
Once broken in comfortable to wear over extended periods of time Basic build quality

 

Fetters Leather Arm Binder

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The Fetters Arm Binder

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The center piece of the Arm Binder is a restraint body made out of soft and deliciously smelling garment leather. While it gently wraps around the sub’s body, at 1mm thickness it is sturdy and strong! The restraint roughly has the shape of a sleeping bag’s bottom. The opening at the top is 42cm wide and tapers over the length of 69cm to 12cm at the bottom. This lavish amount of room allows the restraint to be used on all body types, from beefy muscle bulls to slender twinks.

To adjust the sizing and increase the level of bondage, there are two mechanisms. On top of the body there is a rivet reinforced lacing ladder which goes 2/3 down. It is underlaid with a sheet of leather so hair or skin folds do not get caught in the lacing. Onto the back three loops – one on top, on 1/3 and one 2/3 down – out of sturdy bridle leather are riveted. Through these loops belts with roller buckles are threaded. Again, the belts are long yet the holes are punched so far that they are long enough for bigger builds yet can be closed tightly for petit physiques.

The restraint body is fettered to the torso with a simple X-harness using roller buckles. One pair sits on each side of the lacing, another of the leather sack’s back. The roller buckles are held in place by riveted leather loops for a secure fit. The loops are made out of the same 30mm wide bridle leather belts as the harness and the tightening belts.

The Roller Buckle on the Stiff Version of the Bridle Leather Belts

And now we are coming to a part difficult part in this review: The bridle leather on the Arm Binder I am basing this review on is stiff and uncomfortable. Because of this I reached out to Regulation/ Fetters and they assured me that they switched the leather to a softer and thus more flexible variety earlier this year (I have gotten my Arm Binder in March 2021). To make my Arm Binder more usable, I actually commissioned new belts and the harness in the new, softer leather but due to Covid I have not yet gotten these.

Long story short: As you can read below, I like the Arm Binder a lot because they are a hot and kind of degrading toy. But especially for long term scenes, they are only fun when the softer leather is used! As soon as I have gotten the new belts and harness, I will annex this review. As always, if you want to be kept in the loop about such things, follow me on Twitter.

Lateral Belts for Extra Secure & Tight Bondage

Playing with the Leather Arm Binder

Putting the Arm Binders on is easy: The sub simple needs to put his arms behind his back and you pull the restraint body over them. To make it easier, the bottom should fold his hands. The bottom of the leather sack is quite tight yet it is spacious enough for larger hands. But if you want to tie the sub’s hands together, leather cuff restraints or special ones like the awesome Fetters Handlock take up too much space. So if you feel the need to tie them, I recommend soft Velcro quick restraints. But to be honest: Such additional restraints are purely for the mindfuck. Once the harness and the restraint body are connected, there is little chance for the sub to get his arms free.

For safe and long-term play, the harness should rest lightly against the torso and the restraint body should hang as loosely as the arms would. There should be a little wiggle room so the sub can move his shoulders before they become stiff and to ensure circulation. You can tighten the straps more, pulling the arms up. This is a form of stress bondage and should not be done over extended periods of time and monitored closely. The same rules apply to the belts. Tighten them loosely for lightly restraining the sub while increasing both the bondage feeling and inescapability. Tighten them more and you end up with intense stress bondage. Please keep in mind that through the leverage of the belt you can quickly wield strong force on the elbows and shoulders. Both are frailer joints so be careful and don’t overdo it force and time wise!

The Lacing for a Tight Fettering

So much for health and safety. Now on to the fun part. If you fetter the belts in a non-stress tightness, the Leather Arm Binder are great “mobile” restraints. You can put your sub in them for extended periods of time, render his arms useless while he can walk around and has his body more or less exposed for play.  This makes the arm binder the perfect bar/ club restraint. Unlike straitjackets which are equally comfortable over long periods of time but limit the access to the torso, the bottom in these can be easily be expose to chest and gut punching, TT or CBT. Naturally, it is a good piece of bondage gear for group scenes when a sub needs to be “parked”.

On my first look at the toy, I would have wished for D-rings on the side. But in play, I rarley missed them. In the cases where I had to secure my bottom laterally, I simply used carabiners or shackles on the tightening belts as anchor points. Yes, D-rings would be more refined and keep the restricting belts from movement. But they are not essential for enjoying this restraint. As I have written: The Arm Binder is a perfect toy for mobile play. If you want to secure a sub safely laterally on his arms I would recommend  Fetters’ Full Sleeve Bondage Mitts which have plenty of D-rings.

At the Bottom there is a D-Ring for multiple Nifty and Nasty Intricacies

The one D-ring at the bottom is a nifty one though. For a bit of CBT, it can be connected to a chastity cage or a ball stretcher. Since the arm movement is quite limited, the chances of an accident are low. My preferred bondage layout though was running a piece of rope or chain through it to for connecting two ankle restraints. This will properly limit his step range and keeps him from running away. If you want to humiliate him even more, use the D-ring as the anchor point for the leash instead of the collar, focusing the attention onto his groin.

Finally, if you sub needs fuck machine training, this is a good piece of bondage gear to keep the arms out of interferings way when the sub is on a bench. Even when bound in doggy position, the arms can be used to pull forward and escape the machine a bit. With the arms behind the back (preferably lightly suspended upwards) there is little wiggle room. And quite frankly, the image is very hot!

Conclusion: Effective body restraint from light to stress bondage.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable and secure to wear even over extended periods of time Few lateral D-rings would be great Regulation £264.99
Bondage intensity finely adjustable
Hot looking bondage positions with good access to “pressure” points

Suspension Hand Slings

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The Mr S Suspension Hand Slings

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Construction

The body of this restraint pair is a curvated piece of bridle leather straps.  The bottom is slightly convex to follow the autonomy of the hand’s bottom; the top is protracted. While the body is made out of sturdy leather, it is padded and lined with soft garment leather. Unlike on their cuff-style restraints or the Four Buckle Hand Restraint (more on that later), the padding is rather stiff. This supports the wrist and keeps is upright yet makes the restraints comfortable to wear. For perfect and tight fit on the wrist, the restraint is tightly closed using Velcro and then secured with a roller buckle belt. Next to the buckle is a welded D-ring.

The top of the protracted tip is folded and secured with two rivets to house a tooled aluminum bar. On both end of the bar, panic carabiners with big, welded O-rings on the end connect the bar to another strap of bridle leather. This is threaded through the two O-rings. Between two rivets which hold the strap together sits another panic carabiner.

The Roller Buckle and D-ring on the back

Like all panic (or security as they are also called) carabiners they can turn to adjust a bit to the sub’s movement. There are no sharp edges to prevent damage on ropes. The release for the opening is tooled and textured for best grip even in stress situations.

Playing with the Suspension Hand Slings

When I have gotten these restraints this summer, they marked the end of era for me: For almost 10 years I have been using the Four Buckle Hand Restraints from Mr S for any kind of bondage and fettering. They were actually part of my first ever order from Mr S. But, when fettering someone on a standing position like on a St Andrews Cross, the Four Buckle Hand Restraints were not the best choice. The D-ring positioning was not perfect if you needed to hold onto something and panic carabiners were always a given in case the bottom collapsed (which luckily has never happened to me yet but happens more often than you probably think).

Connection of the Panic Carabiners with the Aluminum Bar

The Suspension Hand Slings fix all that! It is rare that a piece of (specialized) bondage gear instantly becomes part of my standard (or in this case flogging) play bag but the Suspension Hand Slings did just that. They were designed for the anchor point being above the restraint so there is no stressful horizontal pull on the wrists like when the D-ring is parallel to the arm. The layout and material choice is the perfect sweet spot between rigidity and stiffness for wrist support but not cutting of circulation and allowing enough leeway for the fingers and hand to move bit. Even when broken and getting softer in, they retain enough stiffness.

Stressful situations like being subjected to pain or being suspended can lead to circulation problems even on fit subs. Because of this, when doing suspension or just having a subs fettered standing, you should always use panic carabiners yet I rarely see them in public play spaces. Luckily, in these restraints they are built in. They look and feel like professional sailing equipment though sadly there is no kN value printed or engraved on them. In order to release them, twist the capsule 180° and even under pull they will open. The capsule is kept in place with a coil spring which is just strong enough to keep it in place but prevents the capsule from turning. Because twisting the capsule is such a satisfying feeling (yeah, I know that sometimes I am weird), I often just play around with the capsule. I have not counted how often I turned it but I have not noticed the spring getting any softer or the capsule developing any give.

The Velcro Fastener next the Padded and Garment Leather Lined Inside of the Restraint

Speaking of carabiners: Despite the rigid fettering, due to the twisting carabiners, there is a bit movement possible for the sub to work out sensations. This is important because swift, uncontrolled movements caused by pain could otherwise lead to injuries when the wrist is constrained by the cuff. Especially when whipping someone, I have subs doing pull-ups in these restraints because the bars provide such good support. So when doing extreme pain play I highly recommend also to put the ankles in bondage.

While this toy is called Suspension Hand Sling a word of caution is in order: Suspending someone solely vertically from their wrist, puts extreme stress on the joints, especially the wrists and the shoulders. There are some very well trained subs with extreme upper body muscles who can endure this stress position for a limited time. But neither your sub not you should over-estimate what he can do. So when doing suspension, check-in more often as usual.

The Panic Carabiners

I have also gotten a few reader questions about horizontal suspension with these restraints. In theory it works when the bottom is lying on his back. But you have to thread a tension strap or rope through the D-ring on the body to the major pull of the arm weight is caught there. But still what little pull is left, will make the tip bend upwards causing stress on the wrists. So for horizontal suspension I recommend the Four Buckle restraints.

If in a scene the need for another wrist restraint arises and you have these restraints in your play bag you can detach the part with the carabiners from the bar completely and use what is left as a standard restraint cuff. But since the restraint cannot be turned on the wrist, the D-ring always stays on the bottom of the hand which is a bit unpractical.

Conclusion: Best and most secure restraint for fettering hands above the hand.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Secure and save to use even in extreme bondage situations One trick pony Mr S Leather $239.95
Professional panic carabiners
Extremely well made and thought out

Spiked Parachute

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The Spiked Parachute from Regulation

Vendor: Regulation

Sometimes weird things happen at ToyTorture.com: Following last week’s review of the Tenderizer Paddle, I have gotten a message asking if I have played with the Spiked Parachute from Regulation. Since this toy has been in my toy chest for it feels like forever, I went to my website to copy the review link for my reply. But it turns out: I actually have not yet reviewed this toy! It also turns out that I have some CBT gear from Regulation that I have not reviewed yet, a mistake I will soon correct!

Construction

This toy starts out as a standard parachute design. The double layer leather body is 5cm wide and is close by two snap buttons. There are two sets of male buttons so you can choose between either 2.5cm or 3cm diameter for size of the hole which goes around the neck of your balls. Through rivets three chains are attached to the body which come together in a ring that is large enough to house most tool carabiners. As the name says 24 sets of 5 spikes on the inside set this parachute apart from the tamer versions.

Detail of the Snap Button Closer

Playing with the Spiked Parachute

I have to be honest when I first unpacked this toy I was skeptical: The leather was a bit stiff and the ring to which the chains connect was not welded. But my worries were unfounded: Despite hanging a LOT of weight onto the ring it didn’t open up. This was also a good test for the snap buttons that even under large physical stress of a wiggling bottom or large amounts of weight swinging on them didn’t give in. And after some leather conditioner and warmth the leather of the body softened.

The Anchor Ringer of the Spiked Parachute

This toy works like every other parachute but just with a little interesting twist. Unlike normal parachutes this one works without attaching something onto it. Just put it around the subs balls and let him walk. The movement and friction around the parachute created by the moving legs is enough to cause the spikes to make an impression. Depending on the duration and the amount of movement this can be anything between annoying to agonizing. When you use this toy like a normal parachute a bit of caution is advisable. While the spikes should not break the skin they intensify any draft induced sensation. Usually subs enjoy the moving momentum of weights swinging from their balls but with this toy the added sting can become excruciating after some time. This effect is even more interesting when you tie the parachute just tight enough to a spread bar that the chains are taut. As soon as he starts to move the spikes will dig into his scrotum so he has to calm himself despite the pain in order to make it go away. This is especially fun when you tie the parachute to nipple clamps that will stick to the nipple even when wiggling a lot. The loop of induced sensation is phenomenal.

The Two Rows of Piercing Spikes

I had the most fun with this in a CBT competition with two subs: They had to choose a parachute by just looking at the top. One got a normal one, the other this spiked one and taking turns they had to endure the same strength of stimulation like amount of weight, weights dropping from a certain high until someone safeworded who then received a punishment that the other one determined in advance believe it was for himself (I know I can be evil at time).

Conslusion: Innocent looking toy with an evil twist.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Spikes enable wide range of sensations from annoying to agonizing Leather is a bit stiff at first Regulation £32.99
Strong enough to deal with relatively large amount of physical force