Fuxi, Aero & Santos

Form: Fantasy dildos
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: Many
Firmness: Soft to Medium
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Naughty Fox

Ever since I started reviewing silicone anal toys, I have gotten reader questions from Europeans asking for toy makers closer to home. Ordering from the big American players adds high shipping and custom charges. Since your word is almost always my command, Naughty Fox kicks-off a little stroll through EU manufacturer which by no means is intended to be exhaustive.

Naughty Fox’s Fuxi, Aero & Santos

Construction

For years all anal toys I have reviewed on ToyTorture.com have been made out of platinum silicone – or aircraft grade aluminum but that is a different electrifying story. And Naughty Fox fits this premise perfectly. Platinum silicone is the material to get for insertables because it is a 100% body safe – unlike PVC and vinyl. It’s super-smooth surface makes it easy to take and to clean. Simply wash with hot dish soap water, rinse, dry, spray a sanitizer on it and you are ready to go again. This makes platinum silicone toys perfect for orgies. They are quick and easy to clean between partners. A minor disadvantage of silicone is that it must not be used with silicone lube. The silicone oil inside the lube destroys the material. So stick to water- or oil-based lube otherwise the toy surface will get sticky. Silicone has a base stickiness which means it attracts dust like nothing else. That’s for these toys I try a wet look to present them as flit free as possible.

The Vac-U-Lock Hole in Aero’s Base

What makes platinum silicone a joy to work with it that it comes in a wide range of firmness degrees. Naughty Fox sticks to the softer side of the range even with their firm toys. On some toys and sizes they offer split firmnesses, meaning that the base is firmer than the body. If possible I recommend getting the firmer base because it makes riding the toy so much easier. Another great property of silicone is that it takes on colors very easily. You can choose from a range of 24 colors which you can get either in solid, split, swirls or marble pattern.

Other customization options are a Vac-U-Lock hole or a suction cup. Sadly the two options are exclusive. Personally I lean towards the Vac-U-Lock hole. It allows you to mount the toy to a fucking machine, the top can guide the toy more easily but putting a finger inside the hole and there is a ton of different accessories for it – from handles to suction cups. If you primarily want to ride the toy, backing against a wall in doggy position, the suction cup is a better choice.

Minimal Color Bleeding on Aero’s Base

The build quality is en par with the big, established manufacturer: The surface is smooth, no popped bubbles, overly uneven or fraying edges, minimal color bleeding. So from a technical point of view, I can recommend these toys. But how do the perform in the ass?

Playing with Fuxi, Aero & Santos

Let’s start with the looking at the toy I have gotten the most reader questions about, Santos. What is it lately with the big interest in equine dildos?! Are horses the new dogs?

Obviously Santos is a horse dildo of the flared variety. This means that his glans is bloated and expended leading to a wide and dullish tip. Compared to other flared dildos Santos’ glans tapers a little bit and quite shallow. It is far from gradually opening up the anus but better than nothing. The glans rim is textured with small bumps, ideal for turning inside the anus to stimulate this nerve-ending rich body area.

Santos MASSIVE Flared Glans

Below the rim the glans tapers towards the shaft. Only here you can see how MASSIVE the flare is; the flare-to-shaft ratio is a massive 1.5:1! Relatively close to the glans the medial ring is already located. This had the advantage that if you are not a DEEP & WIDE hole, you can still enjoy the plopping the anus makes when bounding on the medial ring. The rest of the shaft is only lightly textured with three lateral veins and a ventral groove. Two thirds down the shaft is yet another cluster of three thin perpendicular ridges. They are perfect for massaging the anus while the flare is locked deep inside. Even at the smaller sizes, this is a pleasure only few will be able to enjoy. The medium already has glans dimensions of 7.5×5.5cm. Taking such a dully tipped toy deep is a huge challenge. So consider the sizing twice when ordering Santos. Yet, with L and XL size, you are approaching life size territory. Equine toy experience friends told me that the Santos comes close to lifecast toys. If this is your thing and you want to experience the REAL struggle of not being able to take a horse dick deep, Santos is the toy to get. Speaking of the real deal: The base is formed by two thick and voluminous stallion testicles for a relatively firm stand.

Santos‘ Medial Ring On the Left

It is hard for me to give a firmness recommendation. Being a flared toy, Santos is extremely head-heavy. In the softer end of the spectrum he cannot stand up and flops around. The firmer he gets, the easier to control. But I cannot imagine taking the glans passed the second sphincter in firm. So the trade off is between usability and takeability. While my Santos has a Vac-U-Lock hole, especially when you want to ride him on your own, I strongly recommend getting the suction cup. It adds a bit of stability and enhances handling.

So again, a final warning: If you are a true, literal hole and want the real horse deal, get Santos. But maybe err on the side of caution size-wise.

Fuxi’s Particular Glans

Fuxi is a similar story yet on a completely different level. The glans is bulgey ring around the tip of the shaft with a little cusp standing out (if you are a biologist and can tell me the right terms, please write to me). While the cusp helps aiming and anchoring the toy inside the anus, the dull and bulgey “glans” makes entry not really difficult but different. There is a slight, stimulating “plop” when the dildo finally enters.

The body consist out of four big oval and long-drawn bulges. Two very subtle veins run over them. These cavernous bodies have their apex on quarter down the insertable length. Then they taper again to the glans diameter above the knot.

Fuxi’s Demanding Knot

The knot is HARD! The spheres attached to the body are flattish so they do not gradually open up the anus but coerce it open. Furthermore the Shaft-to-knot ratio is 1.5:1 (seeing a theme here)  but the shaft right above knot-to-knot ratio is an absurd2.5:1! If you do not want your hole to get completely ravished the advice “Ride the shaft and rest a bit above the knot before knotting.” is brutal! Allowing your hole to tense up again will make the experience so much more eye-popping.

The advantage of the brutal knot it that once it fits it sits. The knot locks well into the hole and needs some force (and relaxation) to come out again. Especially when the lube dries up and the hole tightens again, this leads to an intense experience. The shaft below the knot is about one fifth of the entire insertable length. So Fuxi can comfortably stay inside for extended periods of time – if it wasn’t for the thick, round and sturdy base.

Fuxi’s Textured Shaft

It is hard to reach a verdict regarding Fuxi. Through the complex shape, it has much to offer for the eager novice. Twisting the shaft inside the hole is an interesting experience, the plop going in a nice sensation but not so challenging that it is gate keeping. Also, especially in soft firmness the four cavernous bodies will compress easily enough to go in swiftly and give a nice feeling of expansion and fullness once inside. But the knot is most definitively not for novices! It is one the top end of intense knotting! So it is a toy to grow on which will take time to reveal his full potential to a novice. For experience players who like it hard and textured, go for Fuxi! It is a great addition when you are from the school of hard knots and texture.

Finally, Aero. It is rare that I misjudge a toy from the pictures and order it in the wrong configuration. But with Aero this is the case so let me tell you about my hybris…

Aero’s Tapering Glans

Aero starts out with a nicely tapering, pointy and slightly dullish glans which opens up the anus. There is a prominent yet rounded glans drop for a nice anus stimulation. The body has a roughly octagonal shape and tapers towards the bottom. It is textured with scales that form little pointy tips on each corner. What sets Aero apart from every other scale textured toy I have encountered are that the edges are not as rounded as on other toys but as straight as it goes on silicone toys.

Being a texture junkie, I confidently ordered the Aero in firm because the firmer, the more the texture is felt. But Aero’s texture is so much more intense, especially because it is focused on the corners that riding him is a challenge and not for every day. At least when you buy him in firm! In soft he is probably a nice wavey massaging and the focused sensations on the tips will be delightful when turning him while fucking a hole. But unless you are an absolute anal masochist, I would not recommend getting him in firm!

Where to buy?

Since all Naughty Fox toys are custom made, you can only order them from their website.

Aero’s Pointy and Sharp Scales

Vector, Bishop & Spritz

Toy Properties
Form: Fantasy Toy
Material: Platinum Silicone
Colors: Many
Firmness: Soft to medium Firm
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Bad Dragon

Your thirst for new Bad Dragon Reviews never seems to stop – regardless how many of their toys I test. But I can understand you, riding their toys is very hot. Through your reader questions you pressure me to explore awesome toys – like Vector – I would have never considered. So not sure if I should call it “Time Honored Tradition” or “Broken Record” but here it is, the (semi?)annual Bad Dragon review.

Bad Dragon’s Bishop, Vector & Spritz

Construction

The most important thing about all Bad Dragon insertables (and to also fuckables) is that they are only made out of pure platinum silicone. Bad Dragon was actually the first major toy company back in 2008 to only work with platinum silicone so they have loads of experience which echos in their brilliant and elaborate color patterns. Silicone is the perfect material for colored toys since it takes on the color really well and does not discolor or fade over time. Each of their toys comes in different color patterns and can be highly customized. On their website is a configuration tool where you can see the toy in your desired pattern in 3D with a sizing tool. Just in case you are unsure if the toy is too big. Important when choosing the right size is to consider the firmness: The bigger the toy, the firmer it will feel. You can choose from soft (Shore A2), medium (Shore A5) and firm (Shore A8 which is still relatively soft).

Bishop’s Knot with the Small „Stopper“ Bump

More important than the coloring are the material properties of platinum silicone: First of all it is 100% body safe. This is extremely important because the human rectum has a very receptive mucous lining (That’s why you get extreme alcohol poisoning when you pour booze into your ass! Don’t do it!) so plasticizers or other potential toxins emitted from low quality PVC/ vinyl toys can enter the bloodstream easily.  Besides not being harmful to your body, platinum silicone has a super-smooth surface so it is easy to clean. For cleaning simple put the toy in warm dishsoap water, let it soak and rinse it off (I take post play bath with the toys on a regular basis). For extra cleaning, spray them with sanitizer or put them in an autoclave. While we are on the topic, a word how to care for your new silicone sculptures: Do not store them together with toys made out of other materials. The plasticizers leaving the material can damage your silicone toys for good. Especially when they are made out of soft silicone, store them upright. Otherwise they get dents and creases. One drawback of silicone is that is must not be used with silicone lube! The silicone oil inside will disintegrate the toy and tarnish the surface over time. Water or oil based lubes are perfect for them!

Spritz Textured Neck with the Suction Cup Base

Most toys can be customized with different options: The newest is called Dragon Mount but is actually a Vac-U-Lock hole. If your toy can be equipped with it, get it! While especially the larger toys might be too heavy for fuck machines, there are tons of Vac-U-Lock accessories like handles out there. When playing as a top I also like to guide the toy by sticking a thumb into the hole. The next best thing is the suction cup. Unlike with other toy companies, the Bad Dragon suction cup it deep and thus heavy duty! When you want to ride larger toys, I consider it an essential because otherwise the base will slide away. The suction cup is strong enough to stick even XL toys to the bathroom wall and you don’t pull them off when you deknot. The cum tube is a controversial topic. None of my Bad Dragons have a cum tube. With friends’ toys I was able to try the effect of shooting cum lube up my ass. It did not feel so intense but added a fuckton of effort to the cleaning. However, after every Bad Dragon review I post I am getting inundated with messages from people who swear by the cum tube! It adds so much of immersion to their toy that they would never buy a toy without it. If you have never tried a Bad Dragon with a cum tube and consider it, I highly recommend buying one of their Lil’Squirte to test the effect before buying an equipped big toy.

Vector & Chance next to Each other

Bad Dragon used to make every toy according to custom orders. This led to production times up to half year. So two years back they switched their order system: On a more or less regular basis they now have drops of already made toys. Sadly XL toys are rare in these drops and I know what you ass pigs are after. Once in a blue moon Bad Dragon opens custom orders for a limited number of orders. Then you can order your dream configuration. A lot of guys complain to me that this system sucks. I actually find it a lot better than the old one since they only take as many orders as they can process in a foreseeable time so you do not have to wait forever to get your new fantasy dong. Also, I do not know when the next drop/ custom order date is! Best you follow them on Twitter or Instagram; they announce drops and custom orders there.

Playing with Vector

Not sure why, but there has been an influx of review requests for equine inspired dildos. And “inspired” is the right term for Vector because he is a cyborg variety of a horse.

Chance & Vector’s Texture

The most often question I have gotten asked was “Is he larger than Chance?” Vector is slightly taller and the shaft is slightly thicker. The base is about the same side and cannot be equipped with a suction cup. This makes riding Vector a bit more challenging. Due to being larger, he is even more head-heavy than Chances and likes to tip over in medium firmness. Usually I don’t give firmness advice but for Vector I would advice to go with medium. In soft he flops around too much and is difficult to control, especially when playing alone. In firm he is too rigid and does not bend around the kinks of your colon. In medium he is just bendy enough tough due to being bigger than Chance he is a bit more rigid.

Vector is unflared so there is just a little bluge going around the glans rim. But the glans itself is wider and even flatter than on Chance. You need a good, pre-stretched hole to open up to this dull tip. Being a cyborg toy, the shaft is lightly textured with conducting paths, very subtle bumps & ridges and shallow panels with hexagonal patterns. Much like Chance subtle veins the pattern adds just a bit of friction when riding the toy but is mostly unnoticeable. The largest rising is the quite prominent ventral groove running down the shaft. And of course the medial ring which is wide band which rises vertically from the shaft so it is more noticeable than on Chance. The medial ring sits about 2/3 down the shaft. Below it the texture gets deeper and thus is more noticeable. But still far from the scales of a Clayton or Flint.

Vector’s Cowboy Boot Base

The base has an interesting design. Instead of big stallion balls it is shaped like a (space) cowboy boot. The apex of the instep strap goes about 40mm above the rest of the base which is a bit of a challenge if you want to take Vector (w)hole. The bottom of the shaft is a bit disappointing compared to Chance. There was a cluster of this lateral veins about 50mm above the base which massages the anus when riding him deep which I enjoy very much. But since Vector goes deeper and wider it is probably wise to not over-stimulate.

Playing with Bishop

Bishop comes from the same cyborg inspiration as Vector. But instead of a horse a dog was the inspiration for this dildo. And he plays a much meaner game than Vector.

The Curvature of Bishop’s Body

The first thing you notice when looking at Bishop is the unusual overall shape: The dildo is arching backwards. So if you ride him the traditional way with his balls pointing to yours, there is a constant light pressure on your anus. The shaft protrudes and pushes against the prostate. Until you come to the knot! Unlike other knots which are located below the shaft Bishop’s bulge extends backwards. This makes the knotting experience quite intense. And the knot-massive to-neck ratio of 3:2 makes the deknotting equally impressive! And that is before you start looking at the texture.

The glans is very tame. Gradually tapering it opens the anus up nicely. But since its orientation is perpendicular to the anus openung it is a bit more challenging than other toys. The shaft is textured with ridges in the form of metal plates welded on top of each other. The shaft’s bottom is textured with 7 scale-like plates mounted on top of each other for a saw-like texture, much like Flint only shallower. The top as well as the upside of the knot only has a few large plates with shallower drops mounted on top of each other so it is a bit smoother ride. The bottom of the knot has a faint hexagonal pattern imprinted. A nice touch are two round bumps just above the neck at the bottom of the knot. They might not look big and are easily compressed. But this little added texture makes the deknotting even more intense.

The Welded Plate Texture on Bishop’s Top

The intense texture in addition to the unusual curvature make Bishops a horny toy to ride if you are experienced and are in for hard prostate and anus stimulation. Depending on your physiology the large will already penetrate your second hole. Due to arching backwards the penetration is intense. Despite not going deep and the glans tapering gently, I would not recommend this toy for depth novices. Overall, Bishop is a compact toy. He stands sturdily straight up, especially when fixed with a suction cup. So you can ride him vigorously without him accidentally slipping out or away.

Playing with Spritz

Compared to the previous two toys, Spritz is a very traditional design. But Spritz has a few tricks up his sleeve.

Spritz tapering Glans

Like Bishop’s glans, Spritz’ glans is perpendicular to the anus orientation. But it is even more cone-shaped for gradual opening up. There is no glans drop but three ridges below the glans. They are quite stimulating but also add friction so going deeper is a challenge.

The shaft is extremely, almost 90° curved. This adds pressure inside the colon but also makes taking the toy deep a bit easier. There are two thick lateral bulges on the shaft which are only really noticeable when you turn the shaft inside the rectum.

Above the knot are again three thick and high ridges. Especially the drop below the last one is significant. They stimulate the anus intensely but make taking the knot more difficult. When the knot is still a challenge you usually ride the top of the knot, recede a bit onto the shaft to rest and attack it again. But the rest phase “irritates” (= stimulates) the anus, making it tighter. The knot is voluminous but tapers softly so the knotting itself is not hard just a lot of volume. Funnily there is a ventral groove on the knot which works as a bit of a guiding rod.

The Extremely Curved Shaft of Spritze with the Two Clusters of Ridges

The neck is very short but long enough for the anus to close completely. It is a bit textured with vertical grooves which are only noticeable when you turn the toy. But especially in the larger sizes this will hardly ever happen due to the strong curvature. What I would have liked more would have been lateral bumps like Clayton’s so there is a bit of stimulation when you are bouncing on the toy. Luckily the base is massive and can be equipped with a suction cup so riding Spritz hard is not an issue.

Breathing System – Air Alteration Accessories

Vendor: VAST

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

Example of the modularity and versitility of the VAST Breathing System

This is the third review on the ongoing serious in covering VAST extreme versatile (and thus complex) Breathing System. In the past I have covered the basic elements and took a detailed look at their Capsule Injector. Today I will review all different accessories which allow subsumed under altering the air stream.

If you want to get a quick overview of the Breathing System, take a look at my first and second unboxing. Recently I got my hands on a second FM12 so I soon will be able to show how to transform a gas mask using the Deluxe Upgrade Kit and Superior Latex Head Harness.

After that short orientation, let’s dive straight into it.

Switch (129€)

The name of this element is pretty telling: It is a switch between two air sources.

It looks like a small brother of the Rebreather. It has a diameter of 80mm and it 47mm tall like its big brother. It also features the same thick and easy to grab and to turn switch which tapers towards the end. The end points to one of two female GM40 ports. The port it points to is the port through which air goes in. The air will flow out through a female port on the opposite side of the Switch.

The Switch with the Inhaler & Breath Reducer Vario

The Switch is a useful, if not essential toy to play with the Air Alteration Accessories which I will review below. With just a turn you can switch between clean air or whatever flavoring device you are using. Or – as a top friend did – have two flavors of poppers ready. It is an extremely useful tool when you do multi-sub rebreathing (as one sub breathes the exhaled air of another). In this situation, getting fresh air into the system used to be very cumbersome. The switch makes it finally so easy that is it a relaxed scene.

If you want to integrate the Switch into your Breathing System setup, please only use short hoses! The longer the system, the more difficult it gets for the lungs to inhale fresh air. So in order to prevent unintended breathing issues, keep it short and tight!

Breath Reducer Vario (34.95€)

This a modern and multi-functional take on the tradition breath reducer with a simple hole. It is a 40mm short tube with a diameter just fitting into a female GM40 port. The lower third of the tube has a male GM40 thread so you can directly screw it into a gas mask or any air inlet of the breathing system. The top features five 6mm holes which are covered by an aligning disk with five 6mm holes. The rim of the disk is textured so it is easily turnable even with lubey hands or wearing thick gloves.

The Breath Reducer Vario Half Shut

When you turn the disk, the intersection of the holes and thus their diameter decreases and reducing the airflow. At about a third of a turn the air flow is noticeably reduced. Since there is seal between the disk and the top air can be sucked through the little gaps even when the holes are completely closed. But it is extremely difficult and strenuously. So the toy lives up to his name being a REDUCER and not a cut of. This is a failsafe because you cannot cut off the air permanently but forgetting to open it again. If you want to cut off the air flow completely, cover the disk with your palm. This way you are in direct contact close to the sub and can react directly if a situation is developing.

If the turning and gradual reducing of air flow is too distracting and thus sophisticated for you and you want the trusted and simple solution, VAST also offers a 6mm breath reducer for 22.95€.

Vaporizer with Switz

Vaporizer with Switch (169€)

The core of this toy is a switch tin with 80mm diameter and 47mm height like the other ones. In the middle there are GM40 female ports on each side. The rotary switch can point to two settings: Parallel to the ports is the “Pass”, turned about 30° down is “Vape”. When turned to Vape, the air flow is threaded through two 90° pipes which end in a lid. Onto this lid a 70mm diameter and 250ml volume can is a screwed.

The tin can be filled with poppers drenched cotton or whatever other aerosol emitting substance you want to expose your bottom to. The fumes can saturate the air trapped in the tin so once you turn the switch he is hit with a large quantity. If you want to reuse whatever you have put into the can, it comes with a screw-on cap to safe it for a later scene.

The Breath Reducer Vario on an AVON S10

The Vaporizer is a good element for extreme poppers pigs who want a strong, heavy rushing load. Through the easy to turn switch, dosing and turning off the poppers supply is easily and quickly done. Unlike other combinations (see below) it is a compact and integrated united. So especially when the high poppers does might impair you, it can be easily operated.

This is totally subjective but I love this element a lot! I like the bulky, heavy duty feel and look! It has a mad scientist vibe with the two kinked noticeable tubes from the switch to the screw lid. It just looks and feels heavy duty.

BUT: It does not make sense for everybody. The combination of a Switch with the Vaporizer or Inhaler (see below) is the more versatile solution. If you ONLY want to use poppers and NEVER would attach other accessories to the Switch, the Vaporizer with Switch makes sense. But if maybe want to have a scene in which you switch between a bubbler bottle and poppers, I would rather recommend the combo of the Switch with one of the two toys below. But if you are a toy nerd like me, you got to have both because you can create even more elaborate scene where you can switch between piss flavored and clean air and then can decide if poppers are induced or not.

(Popper) Inhaler

Inhaler (49.95€)

On top of the Inhaler sits a tube with a male GM40 thread on the outside to easily screw it directly into a gas mask or compatible accessory. On the next level below is a 10mm hole which leads to a 90° tube. This tube penetrates the lid and lets fresh air into the 100ml tin screwed onto the lit. The lid is also perforated with five round 50mm holes to let the whatever aerosol is trapped inside the tin stream upwards.

Topview of the Inhaler’s Lid

This is not only a great toy for any poppers pig who plays with gas masks. It is a great toy for every poppers pig! Drench (a few) cotton ball(s) with poppers, put them into the container and screw the top on. The bend tube and the five holes are small enough to trap most of the vapors inside. As soon as you start huffing with just your nose and mouth the agent escapes easily, flooding your lungs and mind. Especially in messy party situations or when you are clumsy like me so handling a bottle full of poppers can be dangerous, huffing safely from the Inhaler instead of an open bottle is so much handier. If you want to switch poppers brand throughout the night, a replacement tin with a lid costs 3.90€.

 

Bottom view of the Vaporizer’s Lid with it’s Tin on the Right

Vaporizer (79€)

The last of the three poppers inducing tools is the Vaporizer. It is a lid with two female GM40 ports on top. The lead to different holes in the lid so there are distinct in and out ports depending on the layout. The lid screws onto the same 70mm diameter 250ml plastic can like the Vaporizer with Switch. The can comes with a lid so you can store whatever is inside once the scene is done.

If you already have the Switch to alter between air and fumes and are playing with a HEAVY poppers pig, the Vaporizer is the way to go. Through the larger container about 2.5times more poppers fumes can collect than inside the Inhaler.

The Bubbler

The Vaporizer is a tool if your sub is into the permanent introduction of smells into the system. In this scenario put it directly before the air intake of the gas mask so the fumes hit him permanently. However, the nose quickly becomes desensitized to smells so the effect is limited. I would not recommend this with poppers because constantly breathing the vapors is not good for your heart and lung.

Bubbler (69€)

The Bubbler uses the same two female GM40 port design. The inlet is connected to 200mm long silicone tube which is closed with a plug at the bottom. In the bottom 4 rows of 5 holes have been punched inside the hose. The outlet is just a short 90° tube from the bottom of the lid. The head screws onto a 1l bottle. The thread fits many 1l milk bottles – at least in Germany. It even works with glass ones if you want to bring such material into your playroom.

The name of this toy comes from the effect it has: You fill it with a liquid – most commonly piss – till at least the highest of the holes inside the hose are covered. Once you start to breath, you have to create so long underpressure until the water level drops below the hole and the “vacuum” is broken. By doing this breathing is made harder because you first need to create sufficient underpressure (the higher the water column, the more underpressure is necessary). It also flavors the breathing air with whatever liquid is inside. In the process the liquid bubbles and thus the name.

The Bubbler’s Hose

This bubbler is a bit different from other bubblers I have played with. Usually a bubbler has a hose for letting air in. The immersion depth determines how difficult it is to get fresh air. Through this hose you can also add liquid if you are a meany. With this toy you have to decide how intense the scene is going to be by choosing the liquid levels. But to be frank, due to the small volume of the bottle and the highest hole being at about 40% of the way up, even in a full bottle drawing breaths is not getting so much harder. So this is rather a piss flavorer than breathing impairer.

Of course other bubblers have a hole in the top for the hose to go through. With the Vast Bubbler you can take the piss home with you in a replacement bottle. This will be extremely useful for pro doms!

When playing with this bubble, a bit of care is necessary. Due to the chunk, heavy-duty gas mask ports on top, it is extremely head-heavy. Add to this the small footprint of the bottle and it can easily tip over, causing the piss to flow everywhere. My recommendation is to put it in a lube bottle holder to store it safely.

Sniffer (119€)

The Siffer with the Two Jar Sizes

The Sniffer follows the same basic design of the Bubbler: Two female GM40 ports, one connected to 130mm hose, this time with only 4 holes in one of the 6 rows, one connected just by a hole through the lid and short 90° tube. The lid has a 100mm diameter and its thread fits large pickle jars 😉 The Sniffer comes with two PET bottles – or rather jars –, one with 1,250ml and one with 4,000ml.

As the name says, it is made for sniffing things, most often probably underwear or socks. Getting a jockstrap cup through the 100mm opening is a pain in the ass so I would not recommend it.

It is a good toy for inhaling the scents your top wants to expose you to if you stick to a few simple rules:

  • Don’t overpack. Fumes need spaces to waft. If you pack it to the brim, not only the hose will be kinked, shutting off the air, but the smell is packed instead of free flowing.
  • The warmer the medium, the better the smell. Often I get messages of frustrated sneaker and sox slave who have bought gear from one of their admired tops and the smell is rather faint. Body heat releases the smell so wear it for a couple of minutes before putting it inside. What I would NOT recommend is putting a warm grain pillow inside the jar! Those have a strong graining inherent smell and if you are not having a horse play scene it is really unsexy.

If you daisychain the Sniffer in a setup behind another fume agent – like a poppers source or the Bubbler bottle – be prepared for the content to take on the smell. Most often I used the Sniffer with really rank sox and the switch so the bottom was periodically exposed to heavy fumes and clean air. Since the sense of smell quickly gets used to smells, periodic break or switching between two strong smells for continuous intense effects is strongly recommended. But this toy also works if you want to prime your sub to your smell and let him breath only through the Sniffer. If you don’t pack it too densely (see above), you can comfortably breath through it so without the airflow being impaired. So the sub can sniff your smell indefinitely.

Again the (replacement) jars come with a lid so you can store whatever inside for the next scene.

Mr S Heavy Duty Posture Collar

The Mr S Heavy Duty Posture Colar

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Construction

The sturdy bridle leather body of this collar is slightly curveted. On the ends it is already a hefty 80mm wide but then increases to a whopping 102mm in the middle. However, the bottom goes even lower to press against the sternum, allowing for a shallow recess where the chin goes. In front of the recess there is a half-oval bridle leather flap attached onto the body with snap buttons. So you can decide how severe the fettering will be.

The 51mm wide belt for closing the collar is riveted onto the body. When you want to lock the collar around the sub’s neck, the maximum circumference is 45cm. If you “just” want to close it around the neck, the circumference goes up to 51cm. The belt is closed with a roller buckle and can be locked using a pin. The lock shackle hole has a diameter of 4mm so pad locks with up to 3.5mm shackle wire strength can be used to lock this collar. Below the roller buckle a 60x64mm piece of oil-tanned leather protects potential hair or skin getting caught when fastening the belt. The belt also covers the small riveted leather loop which house three 27.5mm wide and 15mm tall stainless steel D-rings. There is one in the middle and one below each jaw side. There is not D-ring on the back so if you want to attach a leash, you have to get creative.

Detail of the Locking Pin

To protect the skin from chafing even under pressure with a sub who tries to move his head a lot, both the body and the chin plate is piped for a smooth and rounded edge. For more comfort and to avoid direct skin with the rivets both body and chin plate is lined with soft garment leather. The leather is sewed and glued onto the body; the edge is not deburred. Being made from the soft, signature Mr S garment leather, the “rough” edge doesn’t cause any issues. However, it would have looked and felt a bit more finished if even this edge would have been piped.

The curvated body of the Heavy Duty Posture Collar

The Roller Buckle & the Protecting Leather Flap

Playing with the Heavy Duty Posture Collar

The name of the toy says it all: It is a heavy duty collar to keep the sub’s head in place. Due to not being padded, it is a very strict posture collar though not the strictest in my collection. But certainly the most play ready and versatile. Push the front against the sub’s Adam’s apple, wrap the collar around it and close ONE wide belt. Many other collars either have two belts making it a little bit cumbersome or just one thin (20 – 30mm wide) one which compromised the rigidity. Mr S really found a sweet spot here.

Despite not being padded, it can be worn over extended periods of time. But especially when using the chin plate, take extra care when taking it off. When a limb or joint is forced in one position – especially unnatural ones – over extended periods of time, it will go stiff. This in combination with the head being rather heavy requires a lot of attention and support when taking the collar off the sub’s neck. Otherwise something similar to whiplash can happen.

The detachable Chin Plate

A nice feature is the detachable chin plate. Especially body builders with bull necks struggle with the chin support on other posture collars. Being able to take it off is a huge feature. The tallness between 80mm and 100mm is plenty enough to limit the head movement. This is even truer when the sub has a very pronounced jaw line.

As always with restraints and especially collars, being able to lock it adds a high psychological momentum. Not being able to take it off while not being able to move your head is a huge mind fuck! In the last year I have seen locking pins from cheaper manufacturer only having a shackle hole diameter of 3mm or even less. It is very good that Mr S doesn’t cut corners and still sticks to the “industry” standard so you can keep using your key-alike lock set.

One of the Lateral D-Rings

The three D-rings in the front are nifty anchor points for all kinds of bondage situations. Because compared to other, thinner collars the post collar distributes the force more evenly on the neck, it is a good toy for fettering the neck and keeping the boy even more in position. When doing this, the surrounding bondage layout should be tight. Otherwise there is a chance of the subs strangling himself when he can move too much.

While there is not D-ring at the back for K9 play, you can of course attach a leash in the front and lead your slave around. For deviant K9 play, attach bondage mitts to the lateral D-rings so your dog has to crawl on his elbows (don’t forget elbow protectors in this setup!). A top friend of mine use short leashes on the sides to have handles when face fucking his subs.

Conclusion: Heavy & heavy duty collar with grip to control unruly slaves!
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Fits extremely wide range of necks … but no D-ring in the back Mr S Leather $189.95
On smaller necks the long excess belt is a bit annoying
Lockable
Detachable Chin Plate
Three D-rings…

Pig Play Toys: Nose Hooks & Mouth Opener

Pig Play Mouth & Nose Toys

It’s beginning to look a lot like Pigmas
Toy for every hoe
But the prettiest sight to see is the piggy that will be
Choking on a pole

 

Merry Pigmas kinksters and perverts! It’s a holiday created by gays to celebrate that we survived yet another year of holidays among family and friends who have a hard time understanding our lifes. It’s a day to ring out the old year with sexy debaucheries.

The Classic Nose Hook

Pig play has been gaining some traction in the past year. There are a few toys out there associated with this kind of play. Which day of the year would be better to take a look at a couple of these particular and perverted toys than today?

Classic Nose Hook from Regulation (£ 19.99)

As the name already implies the classic nose hook is probably the most basic and iconic toy in pig play. 5mm grade stainless steel wire is bend into u-shape. The body has a height of 51mm and the hooks going into the nose are 16mm long. The clearance between the hooks is 9mm and 10mm between the hooks and the body. The ends of the hooks are well rounded and don’t have any sharp edges.

The Rounded Ends of the Nose Hook

In order to pull the nose back to get that snout look perverts into pig play dig, threat a piece of rope or tension strap through the apex of the body, pull it back over the head of sub’s head and attach it to a collar, harness or whatever bondage layout you want to incorporate it into. The more you pull, the more stress bondage it becomes. In stress positions, please be careful, the nose tissue is delicate and too much draft can result in injuries.

To call the hook comfortable would be an overstatement. But the long hooks distribute the draft a bit more evenly even though the tips dig a bit into the nose. What on a comfort level sets this hook apart from others I have tried is the small fillet. The hooks are so close together that they comfortably fit even tiny noses. Two of the hooks can also be used to pull the corners of the mouth apart for pathetic drooley face. Some pig players like to add a hook for each nostril to really pull the nose apart. For this the hook is actually too wide for most noses. Since the stainless steel wire is really rigid, you need heavy duty tools to bend the hooks tighter together.

The Hook of the Nose Hook Strap

Nose Hook with Strap from Regulation (£ 24.99)

If you are like me and are not good with rope, the nose hook with strap might look attractive. The nose hook is a piece of 4.5mm thick metal wire bend into u shape. The ends are slightly bent upwards in a sharp angle to go into the nose. To finish the otherwise sharp ends of the hook, a 6mm metal ball is soldered into the end. The clearance between the balls is about 12mm. Since one of my balls is off center on my version, I am pretty sure that the distance can vary one to two millimeters.

Onto the hook a 55cm long strap of 15mm wide bridle leather is riveted. The edges are not burnished or deburred so it is far from the quality of products made by Regulation; you can feel that this toy was purchased from an Asian manufacturer. Every 40mm the strap is decorated with a rivet. At the end a key ring is riveted onto which a small die casting swivel carabiner is attached.

Keyring with Swivel Carabiner

While the overall production quality of the toy might not be high end and far from the toys Regulation makes themselves, it is a functional. The spheres are the end of the nose hook are actually a bit more comfortable because they distribute the draft more evenly.

 

However, getting tension onto the hook is actually a challenge. Among my testees the length of the lead was too long for attaching to a collar, too short for attaching it to a harness. There are probably people out there where it fits perfectly. But in my sample of ten testees with very broad body types it didn’t fit. I would have wished for a double d-ring closure mechanism to shorten the leash to fit the piggy’s physique and play situation.

The Adjustment Screws to Fix the Teeth Retainer

Inspection Gag from Regulation (£ 24.79)

The body of this pig toy is a slightly oval, slightly convex ring out of sturdy polymer with internal dimensions of 75x67mm. At the top are 22mm long and 9mm apart pins covered with hoods which are supposed to go into the mouth. At the bottom is a 70mm long and 23mm wide grip. It houses a 12mm wide piece of L-shaped stainless steel. This sheet goes into the mouth and pulls the teeth on the lower jaw down. A small spring pulls it down for easy adjustment. Since the spring is far from strong enough to keep the strong jaw muscles in check, there is a screw to fix the strap in place.

In order to close the mouth, humans need to move the lower jaw. If the sub does this, he pushes the toy into the nose. Of course the screw only has so much power but closing the mouth is almost impossible and certainly very painful, making this toy very effective keep the mouth open. Even on a cooperative sub, the pins pins pushing into the nose will lead to a very piggy and somewhat pathetic look of the sub.

The Pins for Nose Fixation

The gag allows for the sub’s mouth to be opened to the max, far wider than a spider gag or ring gag would allow. The inspection gag is smaller and nimbler than a Jennings Jaw clamp and adds a more piggy look. So it is in the middle ground of effectiveness and handiness. For face fucking and deep throating the gag works well because it moves a bit and thus is more comfortable for the top. Just make sure you don’t injure the nose when vigorously fucking. One of my testee tops preferred this toy for manual aka dildo-suppported face fuck training. The piggy look of the stretched nostrils added to the drooling of the sub.

For forced rimming this gag is medium effective. Yes, the mouth is forced open but that tongue can retreat in the back of the mouth or block to opening whatever is opportune in the scene. Forced swallowing is okish. Swallowing with an open mouth is difficult and you have to pinch the nose shut for really force which is a but undercut by the pins. So forced drinking has a little water boarding to it.

The Mouth Clamp all opened up

Mouth Gag Clamp from Regulation (£ 34.70)

The body of this gag is still O-ring with 45mm internal diameter. It features little wings on the side onto which threaded rods are soldered. On these rods ride half-circles with wings. There movement is limited by nuts which ultimately screw the movable parts towards the O-ring. The toy is well made out of solid steel without sharp edges. So there are no unintentional injuries even in the delicate corners of the mouth – if the sub can easily open his mouth far enough…

Technically the mouth gag clamp is not a gag but a clamp. It is designed to put the lips around the O-ring and then lock them in place. Depending on the force this just keeps the lips open or induces quite a lot of pain in an otherwise not for pain play used body area. Even when the sub is a masochist, be careful not to bruise the lips as they are a delicate body are.

The Adjustment Mechanism of the Mouth Clamp

In order to put the lips around the O-ring the sub more or less has to open his mouth. Closing it will pull painfully on the lips. But since only the lips keep the mouth open, the effectiveness as a gag is limited. So this toy requires some cooperation of the sub. The only way of forcing his jaws open is grabbing them with your hand. This is a bit cumbersome because the gag is in the way of the palm. Yet the small opening is large enough to pour liquids and small solids into the mouth – if the bottom doesn’t block the opening with his tongue. For forced rimming this toy is not really made. The wide, bulky construction in top of the mouth keeps the bottom from really getting into the crack. He would need a REALLY long tongue to get into your anus.

Straight friends a told me that this clamp can also be used to forcefully keep a woman’s labia opened. The internal diameter of 45mm is not generous so I am not sure how comfortable a top could use this toy for penetration. If you play with a vagina/ bonus or front hole user and have other applications for this toy in this region, please write me!

Slot Tawse & Bullseye Wooden Paddle

Bullseye & Slot Tawse Wooden Paddle

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Both paddles are made out of a medium brown, light wood which has been sanded and oiled so there are not splinters. The surface still has some noticeable grain left for a natural texture. Both paddles are fairly light. Sadly I forgot the note with the exact numbers on my desk home and my mother’s kitchen scale is not accurate enough for a measurement. I will fill in the blanks once home from Christmas vacation.

The Bullseye is made out of single piece of 17mm thick wood. The edge running around the paddle had been nicely rounded. The paddle’s circular hitting surface has a diameter of 130mm. It features one central hole with 25mm diameter and four adjacent ones with 20mm diameter. The head flows into a 190mm long handle which tapers slightly towards the end for a secure and comfortable grip. At the bottom a leather loop is threaded through a hole.

The Sandwich Handle of the Slot Tawse with the Leather Loop in the Back

The basis of the Slot Tawse on the other hand is a 12mm thick blade. Its head measures 95x280mm and features hard but not sharp edges. The 145mm long tapering handle is reinforced with a layer of wood on each sides bringing the thickness up to 25mm. It also adds round edges for a more comfortable grip. In middle of the hitting surface there are two 20x90mm holes (aka slots) cut behind each other. Also the Slot Tawse is equipped with a leather loop. Both toys’ loops are long enough to secure the toy around the top’s wrist.

Playing with the Bullseye and Slot Tawse

Being light paddles, the pain sensation of both lean toward sting.  This is supported by the design. Both the holes and the slots allow air which would otherwise be trapped between the hitting surface and the sub’s body to escape. So there is no dampening air cushion how little its effect might be. Being light the intensity can luckily be adjusted finely. A light tapping will not cause too much pain. However, if you hit full throttle, both paddles will sting like hell!

The Head of the Bullseye

The Bullseye is a surprisingly beginner-friendly paddle. The ergonomic handle makes it easy to grip and its compact shape easy to control. The head is small enough to target individual ass cheeks or thighs even with bad aim or arm control. More experienced players can even use it for ball slapping if the bottom can spread his legs far enough. If you hit with only little force, the Bullseye can be used for warm-up if the bottom prefers stingy warm-up.

The Slot Tawse plays a completely different game! The first noticeable attribute is that the blade like the Bullseye’s head has no give. So unlike a leather toy 100% of kinetic energy is transformed into pain on the bottom body. The blade it large enough to comfortably hit both ass cheeks at the same time. Focused hits with just the end are possible. But the hard edge will add even more sting.

The Hard Edge on the Slot Tawse

While the Bullseyes is a bit head-heavy, the Slot Tawse is really well balanced so you don’t tired your wrist when hitting with it. The sanding and oiling has been done painstakingly so the texture you feel when running your finger tips over the toys does not transform into abrasive pain.

Caution is in order when playing heavily with this toy: Wood is a higher maintenance material than rubber and aluminum. It is hard to sanitize because it absorbs a bit of the tissue fluid and since it has no clear coating, blood will stain it. So if you play really hard, do not only spray a sanitizer on it but let it lay in the sun for a few days before using it on someone else (alternative: use a UV sanitizer some of you might have bought during the Covid crisis). To keep the paddle as beautiful as it is, I recommend oiling it with olive oil (or a wood oil of your choice) every 6 to 12 months depending on how often you use it. This might alter the wood color and give the toy patina but ultimately it will turn a random paddle into YOUR paddle.

The Wood’s Grain

That being said at least for me the feeling of warm, grainy wood in the hand makes up for this work. The handle of the Bullseye feels and fits like worry stone. For me as a top there is something sensual in holding a beautiful made, open-grain piece of wood in my hand and playing with it. If you make your sub kiss the toy before applying it, he will be able to smell a faint hint of wood.

Conclusion: Beautifully made wooden paddle for beginners and pain pigs.  
Pros Cons Where to get Price  
Despite being made out of unforgiving wood, Bullseye can be used for warmup Being made out of wood difficult to clean and sanitize Regulation Bullseye £39.99
Slot Tawse £39.99
Excellent overall quality and fell
Leather loop for easy storage

Wrist to Ball Restraint

The Mr S Wrist to Ball Restraint

Vendor: Mr S

Construction

Five individual pieces form this restraint setup. Literally the central element is 31mm wide piece of the typical Mr S soft yet sturdy bridle leather which is burnished and deburred. It is folded several times and riveted to house stainless steel D-rings on both ends. They are 38mm wide and 27mm high and have a wire strength of 6mm so they are really heavy duty! In the middle sits a locking pin.

By threading  the belt through the D-rings, this leather bars connects two cuff style wrist restraints. They are not padded but lined with soft garment leather for a bit more restrictive feeling. The belt is closed with roller buckles and houses a D-ring between two rivets. The restraints are functional and effective, covering a range of wrist circumference form 11cm to 22cm. Depending on how big the sub’s wrist are, you might be able to push the ends of the cuff closing belt over the locking pin to lock the restraints. The roller buckles are wider than the width of the D-ring. This means they “firmly” connected to the connector and cannot be exchange for different, for example padded ones or bondage mitts.

The Scrotum Strap

The locking pin in the middle of the connection bar is the anchor point for a 24cm long and 1.9cm wide strap of bridle leather. It’s bottom is lined with garment leather for a total width of 2.5cm. At the top eight holes for attaching the strap to the locking pin are punched. At the bottom another locking pin is riveted to the strap. It is the anchor point for 35.5cm long and 1.9cm wide piece of extra soft, unlined bridle leather. There is one hole punched at one end and nine at the other. This strap is for attaching the restraint setup to the scrotum and covers a ball neck circumference from a already surprisingly large 15cm to massive, (saline-)pumped 30cm.

The Roller Buckle

To connect all straps, the Wrist to Ball Restaint comes with two small keyed alike Master padlocks. If you already have a keyed alike padlock system for your play space, you can use your pad lock with up to 3.5mm shale wire strength.

Playing with the Wrist to Ball Restaint

The primary purpose of this toy is to create a physical feedback loop between the hands and the balls. The human body usually try to “work out” pain sensation through muscle movement. So regardless of what you are doing to the sub as soon as he tries to move his arms to help processing the sensation his balls will move. The shorter the connection strap, the stronger to force transmition. This is especially devious if the balls are pre-bruised so hurt from movement of when you line the scrotum strap with a (dull) pin strap). I found that particularly fun in combination with CBT or e-stim around the balls. Even more so when you hang a movement sensitive e-stim device from the padlock on the scrotum strap.

The Connector

Of course, this toy also works as a piece of bondage gear without additionally induced sensations. The most basic use is to use it as simple handcuffs without the scrotum part. The connector is not as rigid as a metal on like on Hiatts 840 handcuffs but has less slack and torsional stiffness than carabiners or rope. The connector allows the cuffs to be grabbed easily and forcefully (just make sure the locking pin is between your fingers) so you can handle and direct the sub.

When you include the scrotum setup, the simplest bondage layout is to keep the sub’s arms down. Handily the restraint can be worn below cloths. More demanding is incorporating it into any stress bondage position and watch him try to get into himself into a somewhat comfortable position while he is tugging on his balls. Once the sub has found a somewhat comfortable position, smack his balls to encourage some movement.

The Cuffs in the Smallest and LargestSetting

Putting the restraints on is easy: First put the wrists of the sub either in front or behind his body and fetter them either with the connector’s locking pin either facing towards or away from the body (yes, each of the four combinations has a different effect). Then Tie the scrotum strap around the balls neck, push the single hole of the connection strap over it and close using a padlock. Finally, adjust the tightness of the tug with the length of the connection strap and push the corresponding hole over the connector’s locking pin. Having put the process into words makes it sound more complicated than it actually is. Since I figured out how to use the individual elements, it takes me less than a minute to fetter a sub completely.

The Riveted D-Rings on the Cuff and Connector

When the locking pin is facing the body, there is a little bit more slack in the connection strap so less force is transmitted. For more intense play, let the locking pin face away from the sub’s body. The restraint position has a bit stronger effect. Behind the body is the more traditional position. Due to the elbows being a bit twisted and stretched, there is less way for them to act out things so again it is more intense. Also, the balls are prominently tugged back for easier targeting. However, this way the connection strap covers the anus. If you want to fuck your bottom hard, put the restraint in front of the body. Depending on the sub’s physiology, this even works in doggystyle. For ball torture this position works only limited because the dick is in the way. But if you make a bit of stress bondage out of it by pulling the arms up using the D-rings on the cuffs, you get a nice, strong balls tugging again. Just be careful not to overdo it because the wrist cuffs are not made for suspension bondage!

Conslusion: Unique and effective combination of CBT and bondage.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Interesting bondage layouts possible Scrotum Strap could use more holes for smaller balls Mr S Leather $139.95
Lockable
D-rings on cuffs Restraints are not padded and cannot be exchanged
Extrem high build and manufacturing quality

Fetters Tight Leather Hood

The Fetters Tight Leather Hood

Vendor: Regulation

Making a good hood is an art not mastered by many! This is my first piece of headgear from Fetters. So I was curious if it could live up to the same level of quality I know from their other leather gear.

Construction

The Tight Leather Hood is a four panel hood made out of thick garment leather. The leather is soft and smells rich and delicious just like high quality leather gear should be. Through seams and molding the hood follows the shape of the human head. Below the nose are two small grommets which are large enough for easy breathing even in heavy scenes. The mouth part is reinforced with another piece of leather so it stays in shape over time.

The Nose Grommets and Pin-Hole Eyes

On the back from the neck to almost all the way up to the crown runs a piece of thin nylon rope through cinch rings. They are high quality and sturdy so they can withstand a lot of force when lacing the head tightly and/ or forcefully. A leather wedge below the lacing keeps the hair from getting caught in the lacing. Regardless if you choose the hood to be lined with leather or not, the wedge will always be an unlined, single layer piece of leather.

Besides the leather lining there are several customizing options how the eyes and nose opening are designed. The hood can be outfitted with a snap-on blindfold, a mouth cover (optionally with a pecker gag) and a locking collar. The range of sizes is quite large in theory, ranging up to a collar size of 20’’. But the lower end is at 14’’ circumference which especially for petit subs and ladies might still be too wide.

The Lacing on the Back for a Snug Fit

Playing with the Tight Leather Hood

As the name suggests, this hood tightly wraps around the head and follows the contours of the face without being uncomfortable.  Since the lacing goes up all the way to almost the crown, its tightness can be locally adjusted so the hood can accommodate different head shapes and sizes. Being made out of soft yet thick garment leather you really get the feeling of being encapsulated in it. For an even stronger leather feeling I highly recommend the leather lining. It is hard to put the difference into words but the feeling of the lined hood tightening around the head is more compact, more intense. While the double layer of leather shields the bottom a bit from the surroundings a medium-light touch is still felt.

To my astonishment the fit of this hood is very good despite being only made out of basically four panels! Even the nose section which is often a problem fit most testees well, regardless of the nose was large, wide or pointy. As with every piece of leather gear, it will adapt to the wearer over time so if the nose does not fit perfectly right away, wear the hood over extended periods of time and sweat and warmth would mold this section into shape.

Detail of the Four-Panel Construction

The level of gimpdom is determined by the features chosen. There is not really much to say about the open and no eyes options. The pin-holes of this eye option are 8mm apart. This is just enough for most people to still see almost unobscured. You can add a blindfold which is attached using snap buttons. This of course distracts a bit the clean, smooth gimp look of the hood. Despite being made out of soft leather there is a small gap between the blindfold and the mask itself. This gap is not wide enough for the bottom to see anything but some stray light reaches the eye. For a 100% block-out, I recommend a dedicated blindfold.

The open mouth can also be covered either by just but a patch of leather of a pecker gag. The snap buttons are strong enough to keep the gag locked inside the sub’s mouth even when he tried to push it out with force. The gag option is only available for the round mouth.

The round mouth has a diameter of 45mm. This is large enough to place even a large gag inside. But if you are well endowed it will probably be too small for your dick. Even when your dick is smaller, this hood is not really made for vigorous face fucking. The cutout is just the bare leather edge and not finished with piping. Due to the reinforcement of the mouth part, the edge is stiff. Over time it will get softer but especially in the beginning you can get a bit of leather burn if you fuck too quickly.

The Unfinished Mouth Opening

For the slot mouth I have gotten only second hand opinions. According to a sub from the UK, once the hood is broken in well, you can push a gag through it. But for a dick it is to narrow and uncomfortable.

The final option is the lockable collar. This only makes sense when you want a cleanish look (as clean as it gets with an attached lockable collar). Neither any of the friends who own this hood nor me did choose it because it limits what you can do with the hood. If your sub or you are collared, you probably already have a collar you want to wear with this hood. A looser chain collar might work, but leather collars are too bulky. Since the leather is so soft, this hood even works with a posture or a choking collar. So my advice is not to add the collar just to stay flexible of what you can do with this hood.

Conclusion: Highly customizable, high quality, tightly fitting leather hood.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Tight yet comfortable fit Edges of the mouth (and eyes) are not treated/ finished Regulation £275 + options
Many customizing options
High quality leather & build quality
Very sturdy lacing with leather hair guard

Agitation Collar

The Mako & Tiger 2“ Agitation Collar

Vendor: Mako & Tiger

Design

What makes this collar stick out that it’s HEAVY! Without the lock it weights slightly over 600g. This is (thin) metal collar territory! The weight comes from its heavy duty construction: In the middle of this multi-layer construction is the collar itself, a piece of bridle leather is lined with firm yet comfortable padding which is covered with garment leather.  The garment leather comes in black, red or blue. The piping of the lining is slightly wider than the bridle leather so even when the collar is fastened tightly, the unburnished edges don’t scratch the skin. Below the lining two screws (not rivets!) each hold the flaps in place which house the massive, burnished steel roller buckles and guiding loops for the belt.  The belt surrounding the collar is made out of two layers 3.5mm thick bridle leather. The two ends of the belt are punched with two rows of three holes each.

The D-Ring with the Branded Protective Flap

In the center of the belt which marks the back of the collar a leather flap embossed with Mako & Tiger’s paw brand sign is sewed. It covers the thick 6mm thick stainless steel D-ring which is 45mm wide and 32mm deep.

What makes this collar an agitation collar is the grip what is sewed onto the back of the belt. It is as wide as the belt and in the middle also double-layered. When I first showed my testees this collar they are a bit puzzled that it was sewed and not riveted/ screwed onto the belt as a seam for them meant something that could come apart. The stitching is so high quality, the yarn to thick and strong that none had fears that things would come apart, even with the most unruly, agitating subs!

The Supplied Padlock locking the Agitation Collar

For locking the collar, there are two options: The more elegant one is the Segufix lock. On this version the belt holes are pushed over a Segufix lock pin and shackled with a standard Segufix lock. But of course any sub with access to a strong magnet and a free hand can undo this. More secure and heavy looking is order this collar without the pin. Then you pull the shackle of a padlock through both belt ends and close it. This way the collar is most definitively secured around the slave’s neck and you can use your keyed-alike padlock set you already have in place in your dungeon. But don’t lose the key! The thick, multi-layer design makes cutting through the collar with safety sheers or emergency knifes almost impossible. If you don’t have a key-aliked padlock system in your playspace,

The Sewed on Multi-Layered Grip

The collar also comes in two sizes: 50mm/ 2’’ width which I have or 75mm/ 3’’ which can double as a posture collar! When choosing the collar width, please be realistic. Because of the many layers of thick leather, it takes forever to break this collar in and it will never get as flexible as a “normal” bondage collar from Mr S for example. So if it fits too tightly between shoulders and chin, the unburnished edges of the stiff leather can scratch a bit, not to talk about the metal trim of the buckles.  When ordering the collar, you have to supply a neck circumference. There is some leeway up and down this sizing so it fits somewhat smaller and bigger collar sizes. But in order to work well, the fit should be good. So more than any other piece of bondage gear, this is really something the sub should own for a perfect fit instead of a dom keeping in his playroom as a one-size fits all. If you want to do the latter, 16’’ is the most common collar size. Smaller twinks have around 14½’’, big bears around 17’’.

 

One of the Two Roller Buckles

Playing with the Agitation Collar

 

Like many BDSM toys, agitation collars come from the vanilla world. They were originally designed to train wild puppies or control sharp dogs – the bio not the fetish kind.

Even “just” the 50mm version has an air of heavy duty around it! The many layers of thick leather, the big, burnished roller buckles, the big padlock dangling in the front (or the – ideally – red Segufix lock cap) creates an atmosphere of seriousness. This is also enhanced by the way it is fettered around the subs neck: Since the belts meet in the front, a kneeling slave has to look up to his master while he adjusts the two buckles so it sits right in the middle of the neck and ultimately locks the collar. Like with all lockable gear, hearing the click of the lock adds a lot of psychological momentum. This is even enhanced when during play the dandling lock hits the sternum. If you want to facilitate that, buy a long-shackled lock with a thinner wire so it moves around more. If you want to mark you dog visibly, you have to lock the dog tag also shackle because there is no D-ring on the front.

Example of the Many Bridle Leather Layers

Besides humiliating and restricting the neck movement through the collar, the piece de résistance  is the grip on the back. It really allows to – somewhat – comfortably grab the neck of the sub – either holding him back or drag him towards where he has to be (like a hole to rim or a dick to suck…). The collar distributes the pulling force quite evenly. Of course, it is felt strongly but this Agitation Collar is the most comfortable and thus safest one I have experienced so far. This of course also applies for attaching a leash to the D-ring at the back. So if you have an unruly puppy that wants to jump at people, keeping him on a short leash works well with this collar. Despite being so thick and stiff, the collar can be worn comfortable over extended periods of time.

The Double-Layered Grip to Pull or Hold the Slave

The “somewhat comfortable” is directed towards the dom. Being made out of STIFF bridle leather, the grip is not really comfortable to grab with its unburnished and undeburred edges. I tried to soften mine using neatsfoot oil but had limited success. Over time it will get a bit more broken in, but since it is double-layered at the center, it can only get so soft. At least the sharp edges are not a problem if you like me play almost always (leather) gloved as a top. A bigger issue is the width, especially on the 3’’ wide version: The top has to grab a 75mm wide, not really compressing piece of leather. For guys with smaller hands this is almost impossible. I have already given feedback to Mako & Tiger and maybe in the future there will be an about 1’’ wide bridle leather grip sheathed with garment leather. I assume especially female (pro)doms would appreciate a nimbler handle.

Conclusion: Heavy & heavy duty collar with grip to control unruly slaves!
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Grip & D-ring to pull & hold back the slave securely & safely Grip is somewhat uncomfortable 2’’ Wide Version $350
3’’ Wide Version $550
Great craftsmanship
Very heavy duty feel
Lockable

Cutler X, Ray Diesel, Horny Rhino & Cockadile

Toy Properties

Form: Realistic & Fantasy Dildo
Material: Platinum Silicone
Colors:
Various standard and many Custom colors possible
Firmness: Soft to Medium, custom degrees possible
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Mr Hankey’s Toys

I wanted to review these toys early next year so you can start out with FFun in the dark months following the candle-lit holidays. But since next Friday is Black Friday and apparently many of you want to stock up, I have gotten many questions about these toys. So I decided to review these for big and challenging brutes today before switching to bondage gear for the Advent Sundays how it has become a beloved tradition.

The Mr Hankey’s Toys Ray Diesel, Cutler X, Cockadile & Horny Rhino

Construction

All toys by Mr Hankey’s Toys are made out of platinum silicone. This material is 100% body safe, highly resistant towards acid and heat and with the super-smooth surface leave little possibilities for bacteria to linger and is easy to clean. In order to keep your silicone toys in top shape, never use it with silicone or hybrid lubes! The silicone oil inside the lube will tarnish the surface and disintegrate the material over time! Water- and oil-based lubes are fine. After play, the toy should be thoroughly cleaned. Putting them in hot water with dish soap and sanitizing them afterwards is usually enough. A lazy way is putting the dildos in a dishwasher or autoclave them.

The Vac-U-Lock Hole at the Bottom of the Horny Rhino

Silicone comes in a wide range of firmnesses. Off the rack Mr Hankey’s Toys come in two firmness degrees. The firmer is called “Medium” which is about the firmness of a fully hard penis. If you enjoy texture like me, this is the one to pick, especially if you want to feel the real deal with a realistic dildo. The softer variety is called “75%”. 75% is popular with longer toys because they bend more easily around the bends in your colon. However, the softer the toy, the easier they collapse and the harder they are to ride. In the end it comes down to personal taste if you prefer your toys to force your sphincter open or to pop through. Mr Hankey’s offer custom firmnesses for $15.95 but I have never tried that. I would only recommend this if you have a large collection of anal toys already and can imagine how a toy will feel in a certain firmness! Because the larger the toy, the firmer it will feel! So be careful not to over- or in rare cases undershoot.

Another great material property of silicone is that it takes on coloration easily for vibrant colors that don’t fade over time.  Depending on the toy, it comes in only one standard color (Cutler X in Deep Brown) or up to five (Horny Rhino & Cocikadile in Gunmetal Grey, Metallic Green, Black, Deep Brown & Natural Tan) from which you can choose with no surcharge. For $29.95 you can get custom colors or color combinations. Mr Hankey’s Toys used to make gorgeous fades where a contrast color was poured over a solid colored core. Sadly they stopped these extravagant designs and now do marbles. For the Cockadile I tried a reptile like Green & Brown marble and for the Ray Diesel a Black & Yellow. And I like both a lot!

The different Bases

While custom firmness and colors are a nice option, I highly recommend getting the toys equipped with a Vac-U-Lock hole for just $4.95. Originally designed to attach the toy to fuck machines, there are a number of nifty accessories out there for this kind of system: Handles, Strap-On harnesses, suction cups and double-dildo connectors. If you play with a partner, he can also put his finger inside the hole to guide the toy.

Cutler X

This dildo is a life-cast toy from the famous gay porn star Cutler X. Because of this, it only comes in one size. And that size is also plenty of dildo. If you every fantasized of getting plowed by Cutler X or need a silicone dong to ride while watching his porn, this toys is the way to go!

It starts out with a nicely tapered glans which ends in a double bulge rim and no glans drop. The shaft is almost perfectly straight and opens up a bit in width a bit but not in depth. It is lightly textured with shallow veins. Two massive balls form the big and sturdy base.

Comparing the Glans of the Ray Diesel & Cutler X

If it wasn’t for the massive size, I would call the Cutler X a good beginner’s toy. The tapered glans gradually opens up the anus and the straight shaft is perfect to get used to the feeling of getting fucked. But since it is a relatively big toy, you should have some experience to enjoy it. If you have this experience level, the Cutler X is a great dildo to put on a fuck machine and get plowed for hours. The shallow veins and ridges are perfect for stimulating the many nerve endings inside the anus, especially in medium firmness. Since the shaft has an oval intersection, it is a good dildo for opening up the hole. Simply twist and turn it while slowly fucking the bottom in front of you in the sling.

Much like the XXXCalibur (link to review) the Cutler X is good toy for depth training. Unlike the XXXCalibur the Cutler X has a massive base and it not head-heavy so it does not tip over. Because of this it is perfect for riding the toy and applying just the right amount of pressure when stretching your second hole.

The Cutler X costs $149.95 at MHT’s online shop.

Dimensions Glans Dimensions Middle Dimensions above Base Insertable Length Overall Length
60x57mm 72x62mm 69x68mm 282mm 350mm

Ray Diesel

Like the previous toy, the Ray Diesel is a life-cast dildo from the eponymous power top. Unlike the predecessor it comes in five sizes so you can adjust the dildo you are getting to your experience level.

The Light Texture of the Cutler X & Ray Diesel

At the top there is a dullish glans with a big and wide glans drop and bulgy transition to the shaft. The most striking feature of the shaft is its form: It is SO wide that I would almost call it oblong instead of oval. It also strongly curved. Except one bumpier vein on the top right side in the middle, the veins are even shallower and thus the texture more subtle than on the Cutler X. The ball sack forming the base is again massive. Apparently Mr. Diesel has so bug bull balls that you can hardly make out the individual testicles in the cast of his scrotum.

To make a long story short: The Ray Diesel is a butt buster! The glans with its dull tip and big drop pushes the anus open instead of gradually coercing it to open up. Over the first half of the shaft, its width increases by 30% which is a massive stretch over such short distance, also giving the rectum little rest during the process. Taking the Ray Diesel completely is a different challenge, especially in the larger sizes. Due the curvature, it has quite the strong orientation and “spring” to it. If your second hole does not lie in the direction of the dildos, its tendency to return to its cast shape will make taking it deep even more difficult than the dull glans would imply.

Riding the toy is a unique experience: If you ride it like getting fucked, the dildo enters the anus perpendicular to the natural orientation of the anus, stretching your hole HARD. If you let the dildo enter in the orientation of the anus, the curvature will push the shaft against the anus. So regardless of the orientation, the Ray Diesel will challenge your hole.

The Massive 4:3 ratio of Ray Diesel’s Shaft

In the right hands and right hole, the Ray Diesel is a toy for a steep hole opening regime. Push it in in the orientation of the hole and then slowly turn it. Due to the absurd width-depth ratio of almost 3:4 twisting only a bit will already put a lot of pressure on the anus.

Even when you are a greedy ass pig, don’t be too ambitious and let yourself be misled by the size information. The shape of the dildo makes it considerably harder to take than similarly sized dildos. Looking for a big and challenging dildo I went for the XXXL in Medium firmness since it didn’t look too big, especially compared to some of my – firm – fantasy dildos. But I can hardly take half of it and it is a quite straining experience. So my advice is to choose a smaller size if you look for still heavy but manageable FFun.

The Ray Diesel comes in five sizes starting at $129.95 for the small and ending at $219.95 for the XXXL plus extras.

Size Dimensions Glans Dimensions Middle Dimensions above Base Insertable Length Overall Length
Small 39x41mm 54x43mm 55x44mm 180mm 231mm
Medium 47x49mm 66x52mm 68x54mm 219mm 273mm
LG/ XL 54x57mm 75x59mm 76x61mm 249mm 311mm
XXL 61x64nn 84x66mm 86x68mm 279mm 343mm
XXXL 68x71mm 96x74mm 96x76mm 311mm 385mm

Horny Rhino’s Glans

Horny Rhino

Unlike the to previous toys, the Horny Rhino isn’t a life-cast toy. It isn’t even sculptured after a rhino penis (doing zoological research for these reviews is… interesting). But nevertheless, it is a literally a horny toy to play with!

It starts with a dullish glans that looks like peaking out of foreskin. The foreskin rim is textured with little bumps. From the bottom of the foreskin two thick strains wrap around the shaft to the front. In the middle, the shaft bulges outward a bit. To add even more girth, there are two thick lateral strains. This leads to a basic shape of two bulges being stacked on top of each other if you look at the dildo from the top. The shaft ends in a pocket-like sheath which is a final, massive stretch before you can rest on a wide round base. The entire dildo is textured with horizontal folds and wrinkles. To add even more texture, there are several medium-thick veins running perpendicularly.

The Texture and Complex Shape of the Horny Rhino

The Horny Rhine is a toy for texture junkies! The many crossing over textures on the shaft stimulate – or torment if riding the toy quickly – the anus.  The complex shape leads to a wave-like flow of stretch and tightening which stimulates the anus even more. This is of course best enjoyed lying in a sling or being in doggy position and a top handling the toy. Twisting the toy inside the bottom adds a new layer of possible sensations. One top managed to prostate milk his chaste sub with the strains. To fully enjoy this overflow of sensations you should be well-stretched. The dull glans does not make taking the toy easy and the texture will make the anus tighten up again.

Surprisingly, the Horny Rhine goes deep relatively easily (if you second hole opens up to the dull glans and does not clench due to the stimulation). The complex shape of strains and bulges create predetermined bending points for the dildo following the rectal anatomy. So even my medium firmness Rhino dildo went deep easily.

You can get the Horny Rhino in four sizes from small starting at $129.95 to XL for $192.95 + extras at the MHT online shop.

Size Diameter Glans Diameter Fist Bulge Diameter Second Bulge Diameter Third Bulge Insertable Length Overall Lenght
Small 42mm 48mm 56mm 58mm 209mm 235mm
Medium 50mm 57mm 67mm 70mm 251mm 277mm
Large 58mm 67mm 80mm 84mm 298mm 323mm
XL 72mm 79mm 93mm 96mm 337mm 368mm

The Different Textures on the Cockadile

Cockadile

Over the first waves of COVID alligators and crocodiles have gotten some cultural significance in the gay scene (Flat Fuck Friday anyone?). So it was only a question of time until the first reptile inspired dildo came out. And here we are with the Cockadile.

Basically this dildos is the stylized torso of a crocodile. It starts out with a pointy, snout-like glans. Following a short neck the shaft has the shape of a flattened barrel make the intersection oval. It sits on a round and wide base. While the shape sounds not spectacular, the texture is the highlight of this dildo! On top of the shaft runs a thin band of full-size scales worthy of an Hermes Birkin Bag. The flanks feature very small scales. To also make this side interesting, there are a number of bumps. The bottom is flat with wide ridges. Finally the glans is jagged and features small scales like on a real critter.

The Snout-Like Glans of the Cockadile

Due to the pointy glans the Cockadile is easy to take so it is a great to get into texture play. Unlike the Horny Rhine the basic shape is not that complex so it is easier to take and you can focus on the texture. The texture is complex and plentiful enough for an intense stimulation of the anus. The bumps on the side give a bit of added stretch but not too much to make the anus clench.  A beginner should take the dildo aligned with the anus to there is a more “scratchy” side (= the more textured top). If you are more experienced and lie relaxed in the sling, it is worth to let your top fuck you with the Cockadile perpendicularly. The big scales on top scratching the prostate is very hot! Similarly to the Horny Rhino the Cockadile is relatively easy to take deep because the snout bends quite easily.

Depending on the size, the Cockadile can be yours from the MHT online shop from between $129.95 and $208.94 plus extras.

Size Dimensions Glans Dimensions Middle Dimensions Above Base Insertable Length Overall Length
Small 44x41mm 58x53mm 54x50mm 209mm 241mm
MD/ LG 55x52mm 72x66mm 68x62mm 260mm 295mm
XL 66x62mm 87x79mm 81x74mm 311mm 345mm
XXL 76x71mm 100x91mm 94x85mm 359mm 404mm