Archiv für den Autor: Frederik

E-Stim Systems Pebble

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The E-Stim Systems Pebble Power Box

Vendor: E-Stim Systems

After I reviewed the E-Stim Systems Helix in this year’s E-Stim Special in the spring, I literally got inundated with questions regarding the Pebble. The folks at E-Stim Systems were kind enough to provide me with a review sample so here are my testee panel’s condensed thoughts and experiences with the Pebble.

Construction

The Pebbles design is quite distinct for an e-stim power box: With its convex sides it has an almost hand axe like shape which rests really well in the top’s hand. The back, the top and the bottom are made out of the same high quality, sturdy black polymer all E-Stim Systems’ power boxes are made out of. The convex sides are covered in a rubberized soft-touch material for even better grip. The box is 117mm long, 24mm high and measures 78mm at the widest point. The panel at the front side features two 3.5mm sockets and the power switch in the middle. Behind the power switch the microphone is located.

The upper part of the control panel on top of the box is also symmetrically laid out. On the left and on the right are the rotary controls for controlling the intensity of the two channels. Above them is a blue LED which is on when the channel fires. Between the two intensity controls is the “Adjust” rotary control for manipulating the program’s sensation. Below these controls on the left side are two soft-touch buttons labeled with arrows up and down. They are for the program selection. On the right side next to the buttons are the 9 programs names with a blue LED next to them which flashes in a unique pattern for each program (see below).

The E-Stim Systems Pebble with the Entire Box Content

The box is powered by a standard 9V block battery which’s compartment is on the bottom. So if the battery runs out of power you can replace it easily and quickly during the scene.

Like all E-Stim Systems Premium Products the Pebbles has a lifetime warranty. It comes like all power boxes in a black carrying case lined with foam. If you cut the foam a bit on your own, there is plenty of space for some basic electrodes. Out of the box the Pebble comes with a detailed manual, a battery, 4 pad electrodes and two 3.5mm jack to 2mm pin plug leads. While I can understand the choice so you can out of the box connect the box to the pad electrode it is still a bit annoying because most E-Stim Systems electrodes are laid out for 4mm banana plugs (for more detailed information of the carrying case’s content, read my unboxing).

Playing with the Pebble Power Box

After turning the box on there is a 4se self-test during which the program LEDs flash after each other from the bottom to the top. Then the LEDs go on according the current battery status. If only half the LEDs are on, you should consider replacing the battery. The Pebble will only start firing a channel when a program is selected by pressing the arrow buttons. After the selection it takes between 2 and 4 seconds until the program is activated. Once the program is activated the 9 LEDs flash in a unique pattern. This is a bit annoying because you have to memorize which pattern is associated with which program in order to figure out which is currently active.

Program Name Sensation Adjust Effect Flashing Pattern
Pulse Single pulses simultaneously on both channels Speed of pulses Single LED, moving upwards in the speed of the pulses
Flo Wave-Form Making the wave’s sensation stingier Single LED moving up and down
Split Wave-form on left channel, pulse on right channel Speed of pulses on right channel Two LEDs converging towards the middle, a step after the bottom one blinked
Bounce A pulse alternating between left and right channel Alternation speed One LED converging alternating towards the middle and back
Audio Channels fire corresponding to audio input Microphone sensitivity Outgoing from the middle LED the LEDs light up corresponding to the sound’s intensity like an equalizer display
Milk Pulses which frequency first increases and then decreases again Cycle length Two LEDs converging towards the middle and going back corresponding to the pulses’ speed
Squeeze Pulses which increase in speed until max and start again Cycle length Two LEDs converging towards the middle corresponding to the pulses’ speed
Tease Continuous output which changes from soft to stingy and back Cycle length Two LEDs moving from the middle to both ends and start over
Torment Continuous output which changes from soft to stingy and starts again Cycle length Two LEDs converge towards the middle, pause the and move outward again

Detail of the Front Side Panel and the Soft-Touch Grip sections on the Side

Like the Helix the Pebble is an analogue box so the basic feel is very smooth but depending on the program can become quite stingy. Especially for beginners I recommend staying at the smoother side of the possible sensations because the sting of cheap e-stim units drives most rookies away. Still the Pebble packs enough punch for experienced players. The programs range from the basic (Flo and Pulse) to elaborate ones (Tease & Torment) which leave enough room to explore different play scenarios even for more experienced e-stim doms.

Like almost all build-in microphones of e-stim units it is not that great and sensitive. But the Pebble – unlike its big brother – doesn’t have a microphone line-in. So if you want to use the audio feature, place the power switch directly in front of the audio source for a good and detailed input.

Example of the Flashing Patterns indicating the Selected Program

So, compared to the Helix, where does the Pebble stand? My honest opinion is, there actually is no real reason to buy the Helix when the Pebble is available. With 5 more programs and dual output for just £40 more, the Pebble offers a better value for the money in my opinion. However, if you know that you only like stimulation in one place, like to threat your sub with the “Fire” button usage or are looking for more control over the program the Helix is the box for you. But from my experience, having talked with dozens of people venturing into e-stim, most people enjoy the possibilities of dual channel stimulation. So even if you are starting out in e-stim, I would recommend the Pebble and if you want to dive even deeper into this form of play and want the features described above, buy the Helix as your second box.

Conclusion: Basic yet versatile beginner’s power box with good value for money.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Dual analogue output for smooth sensation Inconvenient microphone position and no additional line-in E-Stim Systems

(Manufacturer)

 Standard: £149
XPE (with conductive Loops & bipolar Egg electrode): £209
Powerful
Interesting programs Only supplied with 2mm pin leads XPF (with conductive Loops & Flange bipolar electrode): £209
Audio feature
Disclaimer: This toy was sent to me by E-Stim System for an honest and unbiased review.

Padded Posture Collar

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The Regulation Padded Posture Collar

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The actual collar is a piece of leather which is roughly anatomically shaped to follow the jaw line on the top and create a support around the sternum. The minimum width of the collar is 100mm so it is quite restricting through its sheer height. Onto the collar an anatomically shaped rest for keeping the chin from moving is riveted.

All pieces are made out of stiff bridle leather so it is really restricting. The edges are burnished and dyed so despite the stiffness the collar is comfortable to wear (leaving out the stress bondage aspect). Regulation calls this collar “padded” and technical I have to agree: Below the soft garment leather lining there is a thin, stiff layer of foam padding. However it is far from the lavish padding on their other premium bondage equipment. Thicker padding would actually compromise the purpose of this collar because it would give in to movement limiting the restricting aspect.

Detail of the Posture Collar’s Anatomic Shape

The collar comes in two sizes: M for a collar circumference between 37cm and 46cm; L for between 45cm and 51cm. It is closed by two 32mm wide leather belts with roller buckles and is equipped with three D-rings: one in the front and one on each side.

Playing with the Posture Collar

As the name of this piece of bondage already tells: It is designed to keep the head in a certain position and it does it really well. Of cause there is a little room for movement because leather is not steel and even the strict riveting allows for a little wiggle room. However it is the most strict posture collar I have come cross yet thus it is fitting gear for stress bondage. And while it is comfortable to wear over extended periods of time through the great production and material quality, keep in mind that forcing any limb or joint to remain in one position for extended periods of time will make it go stiff. This in combination with the head being rather heavy requires a lot of attention and support when taking the collar off the sub’s neck. Otherwise something similar to whiplash can happen.

Detail of the Rollar Buckle and the Custom Locking Posts

The three D-rings are ideal for “traditional” bondage positions: Attach a leash to the front one and wrist restraints or bondage mitts to the side ones. A handler friend of mine gives his dog elbow and knee pads, fetters his legs with the Fetters Heavy Hogtie Set, clip the bondage mitts to the posture collar and leads his K9 around this way for a more intense animal play headspace. Another top friend of mine attached short leashes to the side D-rings to have something to hold onto while face-fucking his boy who could not turn his head away.

Detail of the Burnished and Dyed Edges and the Padding

Especially on Tumblr I have seen pictures of people incorporating this posture collar into (rope) bondage layouts to completely immobilize a sub. While this collar is good for keeping the sub’s head from moving, the rest of the bondage layout should be equally tight or even tighter. Otherwise the sub might be able to get up and strangle himself.

When I ordered my collar I had it custom made with added locking posts. Especially when it comes to such an intense piece of (stress) bondage gear, hearing the locks lick and the inescapability sink in is a big mindfuck! If you are interested in that option, simply write it as a comment in the ordering process.

Conclusion: Very well made and very strict (stress) bondage collar.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Reliably keeps the head from almost moving at all Off the rack without locking posts Regulation £199.99
Very well made with attention to detail out of high quality leather
Three D-rings

 

LA Pump Cylinders & Vacuum Pump

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La Pump Toys from left to right: Trigger Pump, Nipple Cylinder, Elliptical Cylinder, Thick-Wall Cylinder & Rosebud Cylinder

Vendor: Uberkinky

Construction

The toy you need for all pumping action is the actual pump. I have gotten a very basic one made out of plastic which does the job and is light-weight. One of my more pumping experienced testees actually prefers this kind of pumps for traveling because they are light and simple so are quite sturdy. It has only two moving parts: The grip you pull for pumping and a button for releasing the vacuum located right next to the hose. The hose is 50cm long and made out of transparent silicone with a one connector at the other end which fits into the vacuum valve on the cylinders.

Cylinders are the toys which are put on the body part which should be pumped. All cylinders from LA Pump are handcrafted from a sturdy polymer. The most common cylinders are the ones for pumping your penis and I have gotten two of them. First there is the round thick-wall cylinder which gets his name from the 7mm thick walls. It is rounded at the bottom for a good and comfortable vacuum seal. The other cylinder is an elliptical one so its shape is more like the one of a penis. At the bottom is has a flange which is between 12mm and 17mm wide. The flange distributes the vacuum pressure more evenly making it more comfortable to wear over long time and more intense scenes. To determine the correct size for your cock cylinder a rule of thumb is taking one third of your dick’s circumference as the diameter.

Detail of the Rosebud Cylinder’s Rod

Switching to the body’s rear I have gotten a rosebud cylinder for ass pumping. It is a 165mm long round cylinder with diameter of 75mm which ends in a rounded, elliptical flange which width increases from 11mm to 17mm. In the middle of the cylinder there is 254mm long and 25mm thick rod which is screwed and glues to the cylinder’s top. This rod goes inside your anus. Sadly this cylinder comes in one size only. So if your ass quiet experienced there can be a problem because the rod is too thin to form a vacuum along the sphincter. If that happens, don’t try to forcefully create a vacuum but continue pumping. This can lead to internal injuries!

For going up the torso I have gotten two nipple cylinders. They are 104.5mm long including the vacuum valve and have 7mm flange at the bottom for more comfortable long term scenes. To really feel the vacuum sensation on the nipple the internal diameter should be slightly smaller than areola.

Detail of the Cylinder’s Vacuum Valve and the Hose’s Connector

Playing with the Pump & Cylinders

Getting ready for pumping takes a bit of preparation. The body area onto which the cylinder’s rim sits should be mostly hairless because hair below the rim can prevent a vacuum seal from forming. For a smoother experience some people cover the rim and the bottom 5cm of the cylinder’s inside or the soon to be pumped body area with lube so the skin can get sucked in more easily. Personally I did not feel the need to do so but if you are having a pinching sensation around the cylinder when pumping give it a try.

When you are ready to pump, connect the pump to the cylinder and lightly press the cylinder against your body so the rim sinks into the tissue a bit. Especially with the rosebud cylinder you might need a second person for this because regardless if you are in doggy position or lying on your back, holding the cylinder in place and pumping at the same time is a bit awkward and clumsy.  Slowly start pumping until you feel a bit of a draft sensation. Stop until the sensation slowly fades away, than pump again. The aim of pumping is to maintain a pleasurable pulling sensation all the time. Pumping too quickly can lead to injuries. Good pumps have a gauge so you can see how much suction there is already inside the cylinder. If you want to take a break while pumping and walk around with your cylinder stuck to your body or pump on a different cylinder, push the little leaver on the vacuum vavle and pull the hose connector out. The vacuum will be maintained. To release the vacuum, connect the pump with the cylinder again and push the button next to the hose. When cock pumping I personally prefer the thick-wall cylinder. Due to its thicker wall it is heavier and feeling the heavy, solid cylinder in my hand while I see my dick grow is a horny mindfuck.

Difference of the Cylinder’s Bottom between a Thick-Wall (left) and Elliptical with a Flange (right)

After playing wash the cylinder wish warm soap water and if you use it on multiple partners sanitize it. The agents on the sanitizers can make the polymer dull so be prepared that over time the cylinders will lose a bit of their crystal appeal. Before using the cylinders again they should really be dry including the vacuum valve! Otherwise moisture can get sucked into the pump causing damage in the long run.

So much for the technical part; now to the anatomical. Cock pumps can have a beneficial effect on your sexual health and stamina. Pumping draws blood into the pumped body area increasing the blood flow making getting and maintaining an erecting more easily. Besides blood tissue fluid is getting pumped into the body area giving a puffy feel and increase the temporarily increase the size. When jerking off after pumping it will feel a bit like stroking a stranger’s dick which can be a hot experience on its own. Furthermore the light draft stress of the vacuum makes the nerve endings more sensible which lead to more intense orgasms or more intense nipple or ass play.

The Basic Trigger Pump without a Gauge

Cock pumps are often advertised to facilitate penis growth but sadly there isn’t scientific evidence that even after long and regular pumping your penis will permanently grow significantly. There can be a bit of increase in length and girth but don’t expect the increase to be measurable in centimeters – at least if you are interested in a rock hard dick. If you pump very often and for very extended periods of time the size will increase but the dick will feel soft and soggy because you are basically outstretching the skin and facilitate permanent tissue fluid accumulations. In a worst case scenario your dick will lose its ability to become hard. This “sponge dick” appears when you pump too quickly so the blood shooting into the cavernous bodies damages them. In a really bad case a blood vessel in your erect penis can erupt which is a case to call the ambulance! Pumping “hard” on body areas without cavernous bodies like the ass or nipple is not dangerous but can “just” lead to hematomas.

Conclusion: High quality cylinders with a basic pump.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Cock & Nipple Cylinders come in various sizes to fit all dick sizes & shapes Rosebud cylinder only comes in one size Thick Wall Cylinder £99.99
Elliptical Cylinder £99.99
Pump has no gauge Nipple Cylinder £69.99
Well made out of high quality materials for a good and comfortable vacuum seal Rosebud Cylinder £159.99
Basic Pump £16.99
Disclaimer: This toy was sent to me by Uberkinky for an honest and unbiased review.

ToyTorture’s Wishlist #4: Oxballs Piss Play Toys

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The Oxballs Piss-Lock

In the last couple of months it feels that I have gotten out of touch with my piggy, piss loving side which is a bit sad. The warmth of the liquid and the intimacy of two people sharing this private moment used to make piss one of my favorite kinds of play. Rearranging my playroom so my play mats covered by Sheets of San Francisco are not cramped into one end of the playroom but located central is one step into bringing the piss pig out again. Getting piss toys which intrigue me is another.

The Oxballs Recycler Urinal Set

The first toy I would love to add to my collection is the Piss-Lock from Oxballs. This two piece toy is basically a gag connected to a cock cage made out of Oxballs super-stretchy FLEX-TPR with a hose. The mouthpiece of the gag is shaped like a bite-guard used by football players so it is ideal for a biter like me. Into the tip of the cock cage a small aluminum funnel connects to the hose. The funnel looks almost like the electrode of the e-stim version of the cock cage so I am somewhat positive that the internal diameter of the funnel’s outlet is 4mm – just right to take banana plug and make it an e-stim toy. And you all know that I simply cannot have enough electrodes- The cage with just the funnel and the hose costs $85. What is a bit of a shame is that I am not the biggest fan of the yellow FLEX-TPR which comes with the Piss-Lock; I would rather have the clear of the Recycler or even better the black of the standard Cock-Lock. You can add the gag for $59 or an aluminum butt plug either with 3.6cm diameter for $38 or 4.8cm diameter $58. If you want the plug and the gag and maybe use them simultaneously Oxballs sells both together as the Recycler Ultimate Urinal System between $139 and $163 depending on the plug size.

The Oxballs Ass Blaster Hollow Buttplug with Funnel

However, I am not really interested in the butt plug. Having a quite trained ass and aluminum as being a metal is quite heavy, there is a big chance especially in rougher play for it to fall out. For that reason I am more looking at their Ass Blaster. It is a hollow butt plug with three wings for easy grip even with lubey fingers. It comes in black, red and orange and in three sizes from 4.7cm over 6cm up to 7.5cm diameter. All three sizes come with a funnel which has a big opening so pissing into the bottoms ass is way easier than with into Pig Hole up his ass where you have to aim a bit. Especially the large plug with its diameter of 7.5cm should stick even in a long fisting scene. If not, put it inside a Pig Hole. The Ass Blaster costs between $64 and $98 depending on the plug size.

Sets of Delrin and Teflon Canes

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Two Sets of Jack’s Floggers Canes
Top: Delrin; Bottom: Teflon

Vendor: Jack’s Floggers

Construction

Today I am going to take a look at two sets of canes made by Jack’s Floggers which I have bought this summer. All canes are made the same way: At the bottom there is a grip section covered in braided black leather with a small knot on both ends so they look and feel a bit like a flogger. The bottom knot houses a steel ring so you can store the canes easily. The cane itself is a round rod with a rounded, deburred tip so there is no risk of unintentional injuries. The canes come in diameters of 6mm, 8mm, 10mm and 12mm. The delrin canes are black and 70cm long while the PTFE (more commonly known as Teflon) are white and 50cm long. The white fluoresces under UV lighting so accordingly lid play spaces this effect adds some extra visual drama to the scene. Sadly Jack’s Floggers only offer the canes in the mentioned length and does not offer short or longer ones even on request.

Detail of the Braided Leather Handle with the Hanging Loop

Playing with the Canes

The rule of thumb is: The thinner a cane, the stingier the impact sensation will be. However the two materials invoke a bit different sensations. The delrin is quite stiff and thus even stingier. Their sensation is closer to the one of “traditional” natural canes made out of rattan or wicker. Teflon on the other hand is way denser yet more flexible so the blows tend to be thuddier. The 70cm length of the delrin ones are a standard cane length which is ideal for playing with a bit of distance between the sub and the top ranging from the sub being fettered to a spanking bench to standing positions like on a St. Andrews Cross. The shorts Teflon ones are made for more intimate play like over the knee caning. The shorter length makes good targeting more important, especially when you want to hit both cheeks, thighs or sole of the feet. Since canes transfer a lot of kinetic energy onto a very small area, this kind of toy should be use with caution and experience and only on through muscles and fat tissue well padded body areas. Especially when doing bastinado (caning of the feet) or hitting hands (a practice commonly done in schoolboy scenes) do not use too much force. You might break the small and thus fragile bones. When it comes to marking both materials are in no way inferior to rattan or wicker.

Detail of the Rounded and Deburred Tip

I intentionally chose synthetic canes over natural ones for three reasons: First, synthetic ones are love maintenance. While you have to water or wax natural canes before playing to keep them flexible, I can spontaneously grab the synthetic ones in a scene and just use them. Second, unlike rattan they are completely smooth and have the same degree of flexibility on the entire length. Rattan’s internodes can effect flexibility and create a hard bulge in the middle of the cane which can inflict unintended and hard to control pain. Third and most important there is the saver sex aspect. Through the large amount of kinetic energy hitting the body, tissue fluid and in intense canings blood will cover the area in addition to sweat and abraded skin. Even polished and waxed wicker has a somewhat rough surface making it ideal for bacteria and viruses to linger and grow. So a natural cane should only be used on a single sub. Synthetic canes on the other hand can easily be sanitized and quickly be used again on a different sub.

I also chose the materials intentionally. Synthetic canes are made out of a number of different materials. Metal ones especially in combination with e-stim or heat/cool play are fun but in a high intensity scene hard to dose; they can actually shatter bones. Fibre glass or acryl can break in half or “just” spall causing nasty wounds which in case of fibre glass in some cases will never heal.  Delrin and Teflon are basically unbreakable and will last you a lifetime.

Conclusion: Well made and easy to use and maintain cane set.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Well made with artfully braided handle Come only in fixed lengths Jack’s Flogger  Set of 4 Delrin Canes: £50
Jack’s Flogger Set of 4 Teflon Canes: £50
Easy to sanitize
Especially Teflon has unique sensation for a cane

SensaVox

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The ElectraStim SensaVox E-Stim Power Box

Vendor: ElectraStim

It is becoming a bit of a tradition that after each E-Stim Special I am getting inundated with questions about toys I have not reviewed yet. Despite having already reviewed half a dozen different power boxes there are still popular models out there which I have not covered. This review should answer a few of these questions.

Construction

Like most premium e-stim power boxes the SensaVox comes in a sturdy black carrying case. The inside is lined with foam which has cut outs for the power box, a (spare) battery, the audio adapter and space for cables and accessories. If use the SensaVox just with batteries when playing outside your playroom there is enough space for some pad electrodes, conductive loops, e-stim sounds and even a small bi-polar electrode. But when you open the case for the first time, it is packed with stuff: First there are the essential things like the actual power unit, two 2mm right-angle plug to 2mm pin leads, a 9V battery and an adaptable power supply for all four major socket systems (EU, UK, USA and Japan). The explore the audio features it comes with a line-in cable, a 3.5mm female-to-female adaptor for enhancing the line-in’s cable length, a microphone, a CD-ROM with audio files and manuals in multiple languages. Of cause there is printed a full colour manual in English. For a detailed overview of the box’s content read my unboxing.

The ElectraStim SensaVox with all the Standard Accessories

The SensaVox is one of the larger power boxes measuring 145x81x34mm and weighing 245g equipped with a battery and ready for play. The case is made out of a black polymer with now flex so it has a quality feel. The control panel is charcoal coloured with a bit silver dazzle.

In the top left corner there is the power button. In the left corner you find the Boost button which will increase the output power by 25% as long as it is pressed. Between the two buttons is the modify knob which modifies the selected programs. Below the two buttons at the top there is a red LED segment display and a knob below them on each side. They are to control and display the output level of the two channels. If the channel fires a red LED below the know flashes. Just below the middle of the front there are two arrow buttons flanking a blue LED segment display which are for selecting and indicating the program which the two channels will fire.

The SensaVox with all LED Indicators and Display Turned On

The socket for the power supply is located on the left side of the SenvaVox. On top are the 2mm sockets to plug in the leads for the two channels. On the right side are two 3.5mm sockets. The left one is for the line-in, the right one is the microphone input. The back side is covered with a sticker which not only labels the sockets on the side but also provides an overview which program corresponds with the program number. On the bottom of the back there is the battery compartment.

Playing with it

To get the box ready for action, press the power button, wait 2 seconds for the self-test to finish and then you are good to go. For safety reasons connect the leads first with the electrodes and then plug them into the box. The SensaVox will always boot to the first program. Also, regardless of the position of the knobs controlling the channels’ intensity or the modification they are always (re)set to zero when starting the box or changing the channel. When the channels’ intensity is zero, you can twist the knob counter clock-wise without changing the intensity. I would recommend always turning the know to the 6-o’clock position which with all my other power boxes is associated with the zero position. When starting from this position it takes four complete turns from 0 to the max level of 99. So when starting out at the zero position you have some rough idea in the intensity region you are by just feeling the indicator of the knob. When you turn the knob to quickly the box won’t recognize the input so pace yourself a bit. When you want to punish your sub quickly, press the boost button which will increase the output power on both channel by 25% as long as the button is pressed.

Program Number Program Name Sensation Modify Know Effect
P1 Smooth Continuous output with a prickling sensation Changing of the frequency
P2 Caress A synchronous pulse on both channels which sweeps up and down Adjusting the sweep rate cycle between 0.25 and 20 sec
P3 Swinger An asynchronous pulse on both channels which sweeps up and down Adjusting the sweep rate cycle between 0.25 and 20 sec
P4 Burst Burst of selected intensity and then dropping to zero again. The intensity can only be adjusted during the burst Adjusting the burst rate cycle between 0.25 and 10 sec
P5 Alternate Alternating firing of the channels. The intensity can only be adjusted when the channel is active Adjusting of the alteration rate cycle between 0.25 and 10 sec
P6 Stepper A pulse increasing/ decreasing in three steps. While one channel increases the other decreases. Variation of the pulse frequency
P7 Shooter Channels are shooting alternating pulses Number of pulses per burst can be selected between 1 and 72.
P8 Auto Climb Channel 1: Once intensity is selected, the output drops to zero and starts climbing to the selected level, keeps it for 2 sec, drops to zero and start over.

Channel 2: Continuous output.

 Climbing rate per intensity level can be adjusted between 0.05 and 5 sec
P9 Climax The pulse during starts out with a high frequency and low intensity and slows down with higher intensity at the end of the cycle. Cycle rate can be adjusted between 5 sec and 6 ½ min
A1 Channel 1 Modulate Channel 1 fires according to the microphone input Increases sensitivity
A2 Channel 2 Modulate Channel 2 fires according to the microphone input Increases sensitivity
A3 Both Channels Modulte Both Channels fire according to the microphone input Increases sensitivity
L1 Channel 1 Modulate Channel 1 fires according to the line-in input Increases sensitivity
L2 Channel 2 Modulate Channel 2 fires according to the line-in input Increases sensitivity
L3 Both Channels Modulte Both Channels fire according to the line-in input Increases sensitivity

Detail of the Sockets for the Two Channels with the Adaptor to use 3.5mm Leads plugged into Channel 2

The SensaVox is one of the more powerful power boxes out there. While using the same electrodes with other power boxes I have to set their intensity to between 30% and 40% of the max output before the stimulation becomes noticeable. With the SensaVox this was the case already at between 10% and 15%. I especially enjoyed playing mind games with the boost button. It is a great basis for barter games: Either press it as long as the sub agrees to something or leave him the choice of increasing the intensity or feeling the boost. The max output compares to most elaborate power boxes but the low threshold allows for a fine adjustment and varied play.

Detail of the Sticker with the Program Names

Having been on the market for almost 10 years the programs and modification possibilities are not as sophisticated as on a way larger and more expensive ET312b. It does also not feature fancy stereo audio processing or remote control over the internet as the E-Stim System 2b. Still I love the SensaVox very much. It has no full text display which requires pressing multiple buttons at the same time to induce different levels of modification. It is easy to use and thus easy to explain to new top. The programs are fun and cover all the desired sensations. Neither I nor my testee panel really felt it was missing a stimulation pattern.

One thing which puzzled all testee panel member and me were the different audio sockets for the microphone and the line-in. Cheekily we plugged the microphone into the line-in socket and vice versa – and didn’t recognize a difference. So if you ever spotted a difference between the two sockets, please send me an e-mail.

Conclusion: Powerful and easy to use power box with many way to modify the stimulation.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Powerful and finely adjustable Knobs don’t react when turning quickly ElectraStim

Mr S

 389€

$448.95
Boost button
Diverse programs
Audio Input
Comes with many accessories for audio play

Fist Mitts “San Francisco”

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The Meo Padded & Lockable Fist Mitts „San Francisco“

Vendor: Meo

Construction

In order to create a tight and confining bondage experience these mitts have two distinct parts which are covered by one large piece of leather. The upper 2/3 is thickly padded. The padding covers a leather-lined pouch. It is so short and tight that when putting the mitts on the sub is forced to form a fist. The lower 1/3 is a wide cuff which covers the entire wrist. There is a wide strap of Velcro going down all the way to the pouch for opening the cuff wide, allowing for easy entry and tight closing of the cuff. Onto this part a belt is riveted. Between the rivets there are two welded D-rings per mitt. The belt is closed with a roller buckle and can be locked with locking posts. The mitts come with a pair of keyed alike locks.

Detail of the Locking Posts, Roller Buckle and D-Rings

Playing with it

The first thing you notice when you put these mitts on is the tightness. If you don’t form a fist while putting them on the locking belt won’t close. With other restraints people with slim fists can wiggle out despite the belts being tightly closed. But with these mitts the opening of the pouch is so tight that one the fist is locked in place there is no getting out creating an inescapable bondage experience. The tightness comes with a price though: The mitts are one size fits all. If the sub has larger hands (glove size 8 ½ and up) or his hands don’t collapse much he will have really problems getting these mitts on. The hard clinging of the large hands can cause circulation problems over time despite the mitts being quite comfortable.

Detail of the Velcro Cuff Adjustment

Through the forced fist forming and the thick padding these mitts effectively render the sub’s hands useless. He might be able to somehow hold a large, not to heavy object like a gym bottle between his hands so he can take of his hydration on his own. But that is as good as it is going to get. With the hands being rendered useless this just leave the feet and mouth as a means to escape from these mitts. I put one of my testees in them who is a real escape artists but he could not open the restraints so the locking posts are really just a nice psychological touch, adding to the felt bondage experience. Your sub won’t get out of them anyway.

The thick padding – especially at the front – and the loss of the power to grab things made these mitts quite popular with the pet players in my test panel. Like animals most the absence of thumbs force the pet to rely on his handler to grab things. The padding is thickest at the top so the mitts are good for walking on all fours. The leather is a bit stiffer, more dressed and treated than I wanted it to be on high quality bondage gear; I prefer a more natural feel with a rich leather scent. But this sturdier kind of leather treatment is good when playing outside like at street fairs when rough surfaces like tarmac or gravel would damage softer leather.

Conclusion: Very constrictive bondage mitts
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Really and strongly constricting bondage mitts One size fits all might be too small for people with large hands Meo 129€
Thickly padded
Leather quality could be a bit better
Lockable
Disclaimer: This toy was sent to me by Meo for an honest and unbiased review.

 

Bad Dragon Dildos

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From left to Right: Terra, Scorn and Nova

Vendor: Bad Dragon

Sometimes a review encourages more reader questions than I hope it would answered. This was the case almost a year ago when I published my review of three Bad Dragon toys. In the first months I was inundated with e-mails, DMs and messages on Recon and PlanetRomeo asking my opinion on different models, colors, etc. So I got in touch with the guys at Bad Dragon and asked if they would be kind enough to supply me with the three most often inquired about dildos in sizes my fist-savvy testee panel would be interested in. A few weeks later a parcel with an XL Nova, an XL Terra and an L Scorn arrived at my place.

Now, a few months later, they have been thoroughly tested. And since the review is so eagerly anticipated by many readers, I find it fitting to be the first one after my little summer break.

Material

In the past two years silicone has become my personal material of choice when it comes to anal toys. Sadly silicone is a bit difficult to handle so not many toy manufacturers use it to make anal toys. Bad Dragon has been making silicon Dildos since 2008 so they really know what they are doing especially when it comes to their elaborate color designs which getting them right is a challenge of its own. If you want to snatch a little bargain and can live with a little flaw, take a look at their “Flop” section where they sell not-perfect toys with a discount.

Every Bad Dragon anal toy is made out of Platinum silicone. It is called this way because platinum is the catalyst used in making the silicone. Unlike other catalysts like tin, platinum makes the silicone withstand acid and heat.

Detail of the Color Options and Effects of Bad Dragon Toys

Silicone is an awesome material for anal toys. Its surface is perfectly smooth which makes taking the toy a bit easier than “rougher” materials. Even more important is the big advantage when it comes to cleaning. Since the silicone is non-porous on a microscopic level bacteria have a hard time to establish themselves. Being resistant to almost everything and heat Bad Dragon toys are best cleaned in hot water with dish-soap or vinegar-based cleaner and then sprayed with a sanitizer. If you want to be completely sure, you can even autoclave them. Since you really and thoroughly can get them clean and sterile they are perfect to be used on multiple partners without having to fear disease transmission – if cleaned properly between usages.

The smoothness comes with a bit of a price though: Especially highly viscose lubes tend run down so I would recommend slicker lubes like Elbow Grease H2O Thick Gel. Since the silicone oil in silicone or hybrid lubes will disintegrate the silicone of the toy, only use water or oil based lube with Bad Dragon toys!

Depending on your personal taste and experience choosing the right firmness is important. Platinum silicone will never be as firm as rubber or vinyl can be. So if you like to torment your ass with brutally forcing toys in (not that I would recommend this kind of play for health and safety reasons…) silicone toys might not be for you. For all the other people Bad Dragon offers three degrees of firmness: Soft, medium and firm, though their XL toys only come in soft and medium (which personally I find a bit of a shame). When ordering for the first time, I recommend ordering their firmness sample package in advance so you get a rough idea how the toy will feel. Though when choosing the firmness, keep in mind: The larger/ ticker a toy, the firmer it will feel. Also: The softer a toys, the easier it will collapse when riding it. I highly recommend the split firmness with a hard base. It gives the toy a firmer stand and makes it easier to grip so it improves the play alone and when a top shoves it up your ass.

A less practical but more aesthetical decision is choosing the right color of the toy. Silicone has the advantage of being easily colorized and usually doesn’t discolor over time. So Bad Dragon – in a time where most anal toys where solid black, red or blue – took toy coloring to an entire new level. Their new website features a configuration tool which lets you play around with almost infinite color and effect combinations. Furthermore each month and for special events like Pride or Halloween they introduce unique color patters which are available for a limited time. To stay informed follow their Twitter feed or subscribe to their newsletter.

Detail of Nova’s Suction Cup

Choosing the right Bad Dragon

Bad Dragon is famous for getting the inspiration for their toys from fantasy creatures, mostly dragons but also werewolves or chimeras for example. So they offer vide variety of shapes, textures, length and diameters (currently 61 different models).

When deciding which dildo to get keeping in mind which diameter you can currently take is a good starting point. Since the designs are proportionally scaled up from S to XL, you have to be also depth experienced to take the full maximum diameter which usually sits right above the base in form of a knot.  When browsing through the different models keep in mind: The softer the material the easier it will be to take (see above). The more textured, the harder it will be to take (see below). But the texture is also the fun part: The sphincter is an area with a high concentration of nerve endings so the texture (more or less) gently teases them, making textured toys more interesting. The heavier the texture, the quicker the ass will be worn out so save heav

ily textured toys for the end of the scene. Putting them at the end has the advantage of the sphincter (hopefully) being relaxed and loose. Riding heavily textured toys too vigorously with a tight sphincter can lead to injuries!

Each dildo can be outfitted with two special features: The suction cup and the cum tube. Unlike suction cups on other toys where a separate cup is attached to the base of the toy, Bad Dragon’s suction cup is integrated into the toy’s base. This not only looks nicer but increases the size of the cup and thus the suction. Also the cup won’t come off when often and heavily used, like I had with other dildos. The suction is so strong that even the large and heavy toys stick to dry, smooth perpendicular surfaces and still stick when being ridden vigorously.

Detail of the Texture of the Nova

The cum tube is a tube in the middle of the toy attached to a syringe through which water-based (cum) lube (like the one from Bad Dragon) can be shot, simulation an ejaculation. Since the last review the spilt opinion of my testee panel has not changed: Some loved the feeling of a liquid splashing inside their colon. For some testees and me, it didn’t do much. And since the cum tube makes the toys more difficult to clean, I went without the cum tube.

Playing with the Toys

Terra the Amazon Wyvern XL Soft Shaft

When wanting to venture into the realm of more textured toys, the Terra is probably a good starting point. With the gently tapered glans the Terra is quite easy to take. Two gently risen scales allow for some sphincter stimulation until the diameter increases for the knot. The ridge at the back of the knot is a bit rugged but not too extreme. Since there is only one textures area at a specific height level (either both sides or the back) slow teasing play is interesting with this dildo because different areas of the sphincter get stimulated at different depth levels.

Detail of the Nova’s Texture

Nova the Breeder XL Medium Shaft

I would consider the Nova a toy for the more experienced ass players. The glans is a bit duller than the Terra’s and its rim is equipped with dull bumps so it is a bit more of a challenge. The shaft is textured with three deep ridges with a steep slope at the rim. They make the Nova an equally interesting and challenging toy for fucking: Taking it is somewhat easy because the ridges gently open the hole up. The steep slopes however really challenge the sphincter when pulling the Nova out. Running down from below the glans’ frenulum all down to the base is a ribbon is rather highly raised bumps. Three testees of mine had the perfect anatomy for these bumps running over their prostate, driving them insane when getting fucked with the toy.

Scorn the Wyvern L Firm Shaft

Detail of the Scorn’s Texture

The Scorn is unlike the two previous toys. The most noticeable difference is that the base is perpendicular to the head. Also, the dildos is short and thick. The glans takes up approximately a quarter of the entire length and steeply increases in diameter. Below the glans the diameter increase again quickly making this a toy for more experienced power player. Adding to this categorization is the texturing: From the frenulum down to the base run deep ridges, the rest of the shaft is textured with veins and bumps. Since the toy is curved almost a quarter of a circle, taking it takes some navigation and practice even for depth experienced fistees. Because the L is already rather large and you can get it in the firmest silicone, this toy will produce the most “stuffed” feeling and the texture is felt the most intense of all the Bad Dragon toys I own.

ToyTorture’s Wishlist #3: HML Leather Straitjacket

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The HML Fetish Leather Straitjacket

Straitjackets were among the first professional bondage tools  which made the step from pervertable into a pure kink item. In his first catalogue from 1977 Maurice Addison (founder of Fetters) already sold a leather straitjacket. While medical straitjackets out of canvas like Posey (or the Max Cita models which are actually made for BDSM) are favored by some for their authenticity and through the flexibility of the canvas even tighter bondage experience, the leather straitjacket remains a classic and desiderate for many bondage enthusiasts.

Detail of the Quilted Elbow Padding

The reason for that is manifold. First there is the material. For many people through restraints and hoods leather is connected to BDSM. The smell and sensation of the material touching the skin is enough to get a fetishist aroused. Additionally the sheer weight of a leather lined jacket with straps and solid D-rings adds another level to the bondage sensation. Being made for play, leather straitjackets can have features like nipple flaps, cockrings, plug harnesses or D-rings for attaching the sub to bondage furniture. Last but not least straitjackets are some of the most complex pieces of leather bondage to manufacture. Functional and aesthetical finesses like padding or quilting increase the amount of work that goes into every single piece making them almost a piece of art but definetly a piece of craftsmanship.

Detail of the Straps to Tighten and Adjust the Straitjacket

For that reason straitjackets next to sleepsacks tend to be the single most expensive piece of bondage gear most people ever buy. There are cheap alternatives out there – mostly from Asian manufacturers – but I would not recommend them. Most of them are made out of thin and stiff leather, likely contaminated with Chrome-6, are equipped with un-welded D-rings and have only few straps, they don’t really deliver on the promise the words “leather straitjacket” invokes.

With an only just three figure price point the HML Fetish leather straitjacket combines all the aspects of a serious leather straitjacket without breaking the bank (too much). It is made out of high quality, thick yet soft nappa leather which will hug the sub’s body once the straps are tightened. With quilted elbow padding and tit flaps it comes two things as standard which with other straitjackets are an extra.

Detail of the closed Tit Flaps

The downside of this straitjacket is the lack of any D-rings but the one above the crotch. So you are a bit limited when wanting to quickly attach the sub to bondage furniture. But knowing the guys at HML Fetish if you ask them they will put D-rings wherever you want them or alter this piece of bondage equipment to your personal preferences.

The HML Fetish leather straitjacket comes in sizes from S to XXL, is handmade in Germany and regardless of the size costs 995€.

ToyTorture’s Wishlist #2: Steelwerks‘ „The Vault“ Chastity Cage

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The Creature Cage, one of Steelwerks more Extravagant Designs

As often I endorse “big” kink companies’ products because they are the major sources for high quality gear as much love I have for small, creative and innovative companies. These companies venture off the path of mainstream kink to supply a small niche group with gear tailored to their demands. By doing so unique designs who intrigue me get created. And if they are skillfully created, I am sold. The products of Steelwerks are a good example for this.

The Torture Puzzle, a True Extreme CBT Device

I have often said that I am not into chastity for two reasons: First I like to jerk off and only few tops trigger in me enough submission for the desire to arouse to surrender my libido to them. Second my soft dick is too large to fit comfortably into the common chastity devices like a Bird Locked, Holy Trainer or CB6000 (yes, I have tried all of them). The Bon4 Steel I reviewed a few years ago was ok for the week I wore it but I could not have worn it longer. So if I ever would embark on the journey of long term chastity it would have to be a custom device. I have tried friends’ Carrara or Latowski belts which though not made for me were too bulky and stiff to fit my professional life which leave traditional cages for me. And this is where Steelwerks come into play.

The Schandmaske out of Polished, Anodized Titanium

Just looking at their designs and savoire faire is stunning. It is the perfect fusion of handmade craftsmanship and state of the art technology. Especially the later enables them to handle materials not used by other chastity cage makes like titanium, on request even polished or anodized (as a trained jeweler I know that such surface treatments are not trivial to achieve when they should be flawless). Browsing through their gallery is like looking strolling through an industrial design exhibition: The products range from somewhere between contemporary industrial and experimental art over hardcore CBT which makes me cringe just looking at them to strikingly minimalistic piercing accessories (which still take away your ability to jerk off).

The Vault Chastity Cage with all the Accessories Supplied with it

As mesmerizing their more exotic designs are, I am a form follows function guy. So if I had to choose one of their cages it would be the Vault. The sleek tube design looks bland compared to others – the Creature for example. But it promises to combine comfort, security and daily usability. Furthermore It comes with many accessories like a PA lock (planning for the future), different urethral tubes which should take care of the piss problem almost all PAs have or a scrotal security ring for my beloved ball stretching and CBT.

A useful accessory I would recommend with every order is their S-Key Key ring. As hot as the idea of being locked without any chance of escape is to most chastity subs sadly reality can unexpectedly and unpleasantly shatter the hotness of the headspace and the cage has to come off. With more common cages which are locked with a small padlack this is just a bold cutter away. With the Steelwerks design this does not work. So carrying around a key which is secured by an individually numbered seal is the way I would go while the original key is well secured under the watch of the key holder.

Since every Steelwerks chastity cage is an individual bespoke piece they have no price list. Just contact them for a quote. I know that they are well stocked with orders so if you want yours by Christmas it is wise to get in touch with them sooner than later.