Schlagwort-Archiv: Rubber

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer I – Cuffed Classic Rubber Restraints

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The Cuffed Classic Restraints Color Range

It has become a time-honored tradition that during the period we call Advent in Germany which means the four Sundays before Christmas I write about some toys that I would love to review but not yet had a chance to add to my playroom.

Two weeks ago I reviewed the Rubstraints from Cuffed and to put is mildly that review apparently stroke a chord. With the Segufix lock and all black or authentic medical restraint color scheme they mean business.

The Cuffed Classic Restraints Full Set

But rubber has always had the appeal of leathers cheekier, more lighthearted and more colorful brother and Cuffed caters to that with their Classic line. With a small locking pin instead of a Segufix lock and D-rings instead of gates they look more like classic cuff restraints – just like their name implies. But the greatest feat: They come in color! The piping around the edge and the body comes in blue, gree, yellow, orange, red and white so you’ve almost got a rainbow. This color range should cover the major (accent) colors used in rubber gear if you want to accessorize your outfit or are pedantic about matching colors when tied down. The Classic Restraints come for neck, biceps, wrist, thigh and ankle. So if you are VERY color-brave, you can use them to signal at least four different hanky codes. And if you ask nicely, I am sure Cuffed will be able to make you restraints also in teal, fuchsia, beige or whatever else floats your boat.

The range starts at 109€ for a puppy collar and ends at 259€ for thigh restraints. If you are interested in the entire set, they sell that for 815€ though then you have to write an e-mail for your color mix and match hanky set 😉

Rubstraints

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The Cuffed Rubstraints with Various Connectors

Vendor: Cuffed

Rubber is one of the major fetishes out there and was actually my first fetish (more on that in some rare personal words at the end of this review). Often, a rubber fetish comes along with a love for bondage (rubber drones being forcefully reprogrammed anyone?). Sadly due to rubber being a fragile material and complex to process – especially when you want to compensate the fragility – there are few “good” rubber restraints out there. So many people mix rubber gear with leather restraints which for a true and only rubber lover is a painful compromise and thus messages asking for product recommendations in that regard are frequent. So when my dear friend StormWolf from Belgium drew my attention to the Cuffed restraints during his visit to Darklands earlier this year, I was thrilled and amazed because they looked very promising. Not wanting to anticipate the final verdict too much but they exceeded my expectations.

Design

The Rubstraints follow the design of all premium cuff-style restraints: A soft body that hugs tightly around the joint is connected to a sturdy belt that absorbs the force of the struggling sub. Unlike their leather cousins, the body is not padded but made out of two layers of 0.9mm grade rubber. Along the long edges of the body runs a rubber tubes covered in thin rubber to create the impression of piping. Onto the body, a double layer of Kevlar reinforced industrial rubber is riveted. On one side a rough patch of Velcro is glued and riveted on the belt while a small fleecy patch is at the other end of the body. The second belt houses two stainless steel gates with a clearing above the rubber of 11x51mm, a locking pin and roller buckle. There are 10 rivet-reinforced holes for closing the buckle. If you want to used the locking pin, you can fasten the belt up to the 7th hole (if you use the widest setting of the Velcro the 6th hole).

Detail of the Rubstraint’s Metal Closing & Locking Trims

For the locking mechanism Cuffed uses genuine Segufix locking pins, locks and keys so you can mix and match with your existing set. What sets them apart from standard Segufix equipment is that 11mm below the top, there is a 4mm hole drilled into the locking pin. This hole is designed to lock the restraints onto your sub if the Segufix locks seem to unsecure for you. However, since the top of the hole is aligned with the bottom of the Segufix lock neither my testees (useing ABUS Titalium) nor me (using Master Lock, please don’t ask my which line…) could find a lock which shackle was long enough which body was thin enough to fit below the lock. So you have to choose between the Segufix and the padlock. Alternatively, use seals like the ones for chastity cages so at least you know when your sub broke out.

Two Rubstraints connected using the Shorty Connector

The two restraints I have used for this review are wrist and ankle restraints. The wrist restraints cover a joint circumference of 14cm to 22cm, the ankle restraints 20cm to 28cm. A question I genuinely get often in regard of other restraints: If you have thin ankles, you can of course use wrist restraints on them or vice versa if you have strong wrists! Especially the industrial rubber is stiffer than leather. So the restraints have little give. Furthermore the basic tension inside the restraints means that the buckle pin will not rest on the roller when you just leave one hole between the buckle and the locking pin.

Along with the restraints themselves, you can order various connection belts. They are made out of the same Kevlar reinforced industrial rubber as the belts on the restraints and are just wide enough to perfectly fit inside the stainless steel gates. But since they do not have skin contact, they are not lined with soft latex. The core of each of these connectors is a Segufix locking pin. For the basic Shorty connector there are two rivet-reinforced holes. If you push them over the locking pin they create two loops for connecting two restraints. Another iteration of this design adds a stainless steel gate perpendicular to the rubber belt. For longer distances there are also adjustable, there are belts out there (ingenious product naming!). Instead of having just two holes wide enough apart to create the loops, the have a traditional belt hole layout. Additionally they are equipped with two stainless steel gates for added connectivity.

Detail of the Latex Body and Industrial Rubber Belts

Nota bene: While for this review I only looked at the cuffed restraints most often used in bondage, Cuffed created an entire system around the design also featuring collars, biceps and thigh restraints or a wide bondage belt. So they have gotten you covered for more elaborate or stricter bondage scenes.

If you have a medical/ asylum fetish that is not satisfied by the professional lock system Cuffed offers some of the restraints, belts and connectors off the rack with a tan belts and beige bodies. I am sure if you want other restraints from the system currently not included in this collection like the thigh restraints, they are open for custom commissions.

Like all rubber and latex items, the Rubstraints require a bit special care. Most important: Keep them away from oil and fat, including and especially Crisco! These substances will destroy the rubber! Since there is always a thin film of oil on the human skin, rubber should be washed after each scene either using simple, non-moisturizing dish soap or a special rubber detergent (my detergent of choice is Wonder Wash). Before storing them, make sure they are COMPLETELY dry (often water gets trapped in the tubes used for the piping) and seal the surface either with talcum powder or silicone lube to keep the rubber from oxidation. But regardless how well you take care of the Rubstraints, how thoroughly you clean and protect them from oxidation, they – like all rubber and latex times – will over time get old and finally break! So use them often and well to get the most fun out of them.

The Logo printed inside the Cuffs

If you want to learn more about rubber and latex, the perfect are and its appeal, check out my Rubber 101.

Playing with the Rubstraints

This is the first time I have ever written this about a piece of rubber bondage gear (except body bondage items lick sleeping bags): They work as well as their leather counterparts. The latex piped lining creates a soft and sharp edge-free surface that can actually be worn on bare skin over extended periods of time – even on a struggling sub! – without chafing. The thought-out placing of the rivets that connects the body to the belt diverts most of the force of a struggling sub to only the belt which is strong enough to deal even with strong subs. A testee submitted a body builder sub of his to tough e-stim torture and there was no noticeable wear and tear on the rubber or the rivets. So any rubber scene, any latex fantasy you would normally resort to using leather restraints can be turned into reality using the Rubstraints.

Detail of the Velcro

The most noticeable design difference to leather restraints is that as anchor points the Rubstraints use gates instead of D-rings. While this is an unusual decision I actually like the look at lot. It adds to the sleek, technical look and feel the thick, hard-edged rubber belts create. A drawback is that threading rope is difficult and attaching climbing carabiner is impossible. This is a very personal opinion and play preference of (most of) my testees and me but in our opinion “classic” rope clashes a bit with the modern look. “Rough” chain (with shackles as connectors) or “high-tech” nylon tension straps are a better match. The great advantage of gates are that if tied with enough tension and facing towards the short sides, the bondage medium stays in the corner and does not travel towards the apex like they have the tendencies on D-rings.

The Belt connected to a 90 Connector

The gates are also the foundation to incorporate the belt-style accessories. This is what set the Rubstraints really apart from all the other cuff style leather restraints I have reviewed and played with so far. The rubber straps being almost as wide as the gates, there is little vertical wiggle room so they create a stricter bondage than a carabiner would. Since they come in a variety of length, the severity of the bondage can be adjusted. For example, instead of using a belt to connect the ankle restraints and limiting the movement of the sub, a testee used the short Shorty which leave about 50mm of movement space. This leave the sub the theoretical possibility of walking around but practically it take a lot of practice to not fall over his own feet. Practice, easily enforces when tugging on his collar. Due to the added gate, the 90 are a bit wider (and actually come in two sizes).  While they take a bit away the strictness between the limbs, they add versatility. Now you can connect the two restraints pairs with either a short belt for a hogtie or a longer one when for a standing sub to create an interesting way to limit his movements (every time he takes a step, there will be a tugging on his wrists which especially when tied tightly behind his back adds another difficulty level). If you are more of a sadist, add a (spiked) parachute to his balls, run the rope through the gate and attach a weight. In this instance, the rope will travel from one corner to the other, causing the weight to swing, making the sub move and the weight swings more. There are many, creative, vicious and aesthetical pleasing ways to play with the connector. On the website from Cuffed there is a short, still extending guide with examples. So check this out if you need more inspiration. Another benefit of the rubber connectors are that they do not disturb the clean all-rubber and steel look the Rubstraints laid the basis for.

The Genuine Segufix Lock with Genuine Key

And last but definitely not least: The fetish aspect. They smell like a good piece of rubber gear should smell. The smell is so intense that opening up the box I store them in feels like opening my rubber closet. As for the looks the industrial rubber of the belts can either be high-shined to match latex suits yet is dull enough to appeal to the lovers of the rougher, dry or hazmat suit look. Other testee subs loved the Segufix lock. They bring a professional and heavy duty feel to the restraints. Especially a blindfolded sub familiar with the Segufix system will know what the faint and subtle “click” means when the lock is pushed over the locking pin.

A Personal Word from ToyTorture

Despite all the personal experience I try to make these reviews as objective as possible. So I have never written a truly personal opinion about a toy. But given the circumstances, I feel it necessary for this toy.

Rubber was my first true fetish and slowly venturing into the fetish, kink and BDSM scene, I first struggled a bit with good bondage gear were only available in leather. So locking back at my own past, I was genuinely excited for these restraints. When I opened the parcel, a wave of intoxicating rubber smell hit me! It was almost like Rubber@LAB – minus the smell of piss and poppers. I got them end of August and I was SO locking forward to using them on me, on subs, as photo prop. But due to the current circumstances, I only managed to get a few scenes as a top with them and was glad that I have testees with live-in subs to get more opinions on the toy for a review as you would expect it of ToyTorture.com.

ADarkGuy hogtied by ToyTorture using the Rubstraints

Yet still, every time I open the storage box for the Rubstraints in my playroom and smell the rubber and I see the shiny surface and feel the cold stainless steel I am heart-broken that a toy holding so much potential, so many fantasies inside them is just laying dead and unused in a box. So I truly hope that things will get better soon, that some time next year, I will lock these restraints around a rubber sub at Quälgeist or join one of my tops to Rubber@LAB. But for the moment these excellent pieces of bondage gear, German art of engineering and craftsmanship are a good example for all the things to look forward to once this pandemic is over.

Conclusion: The most effective, sturdy, fetish-please, thought-out and high quality rubber restraints.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sturdy enough even for heavy bondage scenes and strong subs Will age over time and will eventually break Rubstraints Wrist Cuffs 199€
Rubstraints Ankle Cuffs 199€
Intense rubber smell and feel
Shorty Connector (2 pieces) 44,90€
Two anchor points 90 Connector 32,90€
Thought-out accessory system 90 Long Connector 38,90€
Belt 50 49,90€
Belt Back 69,90€

SeriousToyS Pain Paddle

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The Serious Toy Pain Paddle

Vendor: Vast

Ever since I reviewed my rubber paddle, there has been a steady stream of reader questions about alike paddles. There are few out there but I keep my eyes open for them especially when visiting stores which carry an unusual assortment and manufacture their own toys – like Demask Dortmund does with this rubber paddle.

Design

There are three different designs available: The Ping Pong Paddle which like the name implies has a round impact area and the Small and Large Paddle. I went to the small one because it is just large enough to hit both cheeks yet nimble enough to hit a single one.

Detail of the Three Rubber Layer

The design is fairly standard. The impact area measures 235x75mm and has a half circle shape at the top. 25mm into this area protrudes the overall 160mm long handle, making the toy overall 375mm long. The impact area is made out of three layers of fabric reinforced industrial rubber. It has a thickness of 6mm which makes it rigid enough for a severe impact yet flexible enough for serious smack. The edges are lightly deburred preventing them from cutting the skin but giving them a stingy edge.

The rubber layers extend all the way through the handle. It is screwed between wood wedge using stainless steel machine screws. Each wedge is about 15mm tall making the handle a bit chunky for small hands despite all edges being rounded for a comfortable grip. The paddle comes in two wood varieties: Light and dark brown. But since I misplaced the note where I wrote down out of which woods they are made, I have to give this piece of information later. At the end of the handle a waxed leather string is forming a loop for easy storage and securing the paddle around the wrist during long scenes.

Detail of the Loop

SeriousToyS sells these toys with a 10 year warranty. But to be honest, I cannot see how you could ever break this paddle during normal, heavy usage…

Playing with the Pain Paddle

The paddle truly lives up to its name: It is a paddle that brings pain. When you really get to know the paddle, you can use it even for warm-up or drive a bottom nuts with light taps (I especially recommend the nuts for that). But at the core, the Pain Paddle is a nasty stinger! Even light slaps sting and through the flexibility create a noticeable sound. Putting more kinetic energy into it, will quickly make the pain agonizing! This made the Pain Paddle one of the impact implements of choice when I want to make a bottom scream quickly. Being so light and flexible, the paddle is a bit prone to lessening the blow through the air cushion between the skin and the paddle. I hope they are going to make a holed version of this paddle for even more intense pain!

Detail of the Handles Gorgeous Wood

Through being so light, the Pain Paddle is not a bruised. It quickly reddens the skin though and makes the targeted body area tender but the coloring does not last for long. But do not mistake this paddle for being a lightweight: Over the course of long scenes, it can break the skin! This made the paddle my favorite for “quick & dirty” session: High intensity over short period of time for people who must not show markings because for example they feel uncomfortable with bruises in the gym shower.

Speaking of dirty: The paddle is ideal for playing in group settings where multiple bottoms are taken care off during a night. Regardless if the bottom sweats a lot, the impact presses tissue water out or his skin breaks, releasing blood, the impact area can be cleaned and disinfected easily. The handle of course must be treated with greater care, being made out of wood. Maybe the will release a stainless steel/ aluminum version at some of time, to create a paddle you can literally throw into bleach.

Conclusion: Severe, handcrafted rubber paddle
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Intense pain sensation Handle is a bit large for small hands

Wooden handle makes cleaning a bit more effortful

 Vast 79€
Colors quickly, does not leave long-lasting marks

Rubber Bondage Sleepsack

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The Torso of the Libidex Rubber Bondage Sleepsack

Vendor: Libidex

I do not review many rubber bondage items, mainly because I am maybe a bit too active sub to be contained by them and I am too lazy to clean them. But there are good reasons for some rubber bondage gear and I am more than happy to finally answer one of the most asked bondage gear question in this review.

Construction

Like the name of this toy already implies, it is tailored like a bodyfit sleepsack, a tight cocoon to envelop the body in latex. Unlike the sleepsacks made for camping this one only has a standing collar instead of an opening for the whole body. Also, the bottom has a shaped upward facing section for the feet. To get into the sleepsack, there are two zipper options: Either on top or on the bottom of the sleepsack, both running from the collar to the feet from. Mine has the top zipper for three reasons: First, from my experience with other sleepsacks, front access is way more important than rear access when it comes to sleepsacks. The idea of fucking a bottom inside a sleepsack (for which you would need rear access) is a hot idea, but this is quickly shattered by the reality of the bottom being an immobile “plank” and the zipper irritating the top’s dick. Second, lying on a zipper can be very uncomfortable, especially when the runners are poking you in the back. Finally, getting into a rear-zipper-sleepsack with arm pockets is a pain in the ass. The rear zipper comes with a cleaner look but in my opinion is not worth the disadvantages which comes with it. For a little surcharge you can get the opposite access zipper added to your sleepsack too.

As already implied, the Libidex Bondage Sleepsack is equipped with arm pockets which are really well designed. They open up deep enough inside the sleepsack to allow people with thick chest and shoulder muscles to comfortably get into and stay in them. Furthermore they are really deep so people with long arms do not have problems.

Detail of the Sleepsack’s Arm Pockets

The Bondage Sleepsack (like all Libidex sleepsacks) is made out of 0.8mm rubber. This thickness is a good compromise of sturdiness yet flexibility and stretchiness. The material stretches just enough for easy getting and staying in but still has enough compressing force for the compact, encapsulating rubber bondage feeling. The seams are glued really well and with enough of an overlap to take a bit of beating. In combination with the material thickness, this model can contain a somewhat active sub. But keep in mind that rubber is not nearly as strong as leather! When fettering a bratty sub or going for a painplay scene where the sub will work out the pain, I highly recommend either getting (rubber) belts or tie rope around the sleepsack.

To help keep these means in place, the sleepsack is equipped with welded D-rings with an inner width of 35. Along the side there are four D-ring paris: Above the elbow, over the wrists, above the knee and around the ankles. There is a pair on top of the shoulder, one pair on the collar and finally a single D-ring at the bottom of the feet. The D-rings are attached to the sleepsack using a 30mm wide strap of rubber which is reinforced with a 15mm wide strap of fabric striping. Through this striping there are two rivets on each side which are covered by rubber patches in the inside. This is not only good for potential allergy reasons but the sweat and other liquids accumulating inside the sleepsack would cause rust. As sturdy as the D-rings are attached to the sleepsack, as little I would recommend to use the D-rings for limiting a subs movement by tying the sleepsack down onto a bed frame for example. The chances of the rivets being ripped out of the rubber are too high. Better use the rope as an anchor point.

Detail of the Rivet Cover inside the Sleepsack

Finally, a word in the customization options for the sleepsack: You can choose from 43 colors and sizes ranging from XXS to 4XL free of charge with is the largest selection of colors and sizes I have come across yet. Furthermore there are three length options. I have gotten the tall for being around 1.88m tall and it fits me really well – as well as some of my guests which were as tall as 2.05m.

Playing with the Bondage Sleepsack

While this rubber sleepsack can be used to fetter a sub for pain play, the limitations above apply. When you have an active sub and are not a big fan of additionally wrapping rope, belts or chains around a sub, I recommend getting a leather sleepsack (or if you are a rubber fetishist, get both and layer up).

After having gotten that out of the way, let’s talk about the great sensual quality of a rubber sleepsack. Unlike leather, the rubber stretches and flows over the body like a second skin. This has made the rubber sleepsack the favorite piece of bondage for floaty bondage scenes with my subs. With 0.8mm the material is just thin enough to transmit the light touches of fingers traveling over the body. But the material also picks up movement from a strong massager, causing the latex cocoon to resonate around the application area for a unique feeling. Add to that the temperature conductivity of rubber and an ice cube of metal implement warmed in water can create become a tool on the brink between ecstasy and agony. Though NEVER pour wax over rubber or apply hot, sharp or spiky implements! It will damage the material. Since rubber is non-breathable and despite the good temperature conductivity contains warmth, temperature control and hydration (due to sweating) is a constant issue. Make sure that the room is well heated but not too warm, opening a window with a light breeze going over the bound boy can quickly make him become hypothermic. On the other end of the temperature scale, letting him lay in the sun will make him overheat. All these factors have to be taken into consideration when planning the scene because one inside the sleepsack, moving the bottom is difficult. And getting into a sweat-drenched cold rubber bag is a fetish some very much enjoy but not many.

Detail of the Rubber Stripes Holding the D-rings in Place

Rubber is also a good isolating material. I had great fun teasing a sub with a violet wand electrode running over his body, coming closer or moving away from his exposed genitals and alternating the wand’s intensity, so he never knew when the spark would jump over to his dick. When doing this kind of play, be careful with coming too close to the metal zipper which also conducts and can cause interesting effects…

Since the seams are glued really well, the rubber bondage sleespack is basically one big tub which of cause can be filled with liquids. This starts with dropping an ice cube or two against overheating, continues over the ability to relieve oneself during long-term bondage and ends in being the party urinal when the courtesy piss bottom cannot swallow quickly enough (or being the drain for him). While you can fit almost every smaller body type into even a larger and taller sleepsack, when playing with liquids the body fit should be roughly the one ordered. Otherwise the liquids will flow out of the neck opening.

Detail of the Feet Section of the Sleepsack

When talking about messy things, I have to talk about the biggest pain in the ass with rubber items:  Cleaning and maintenance. You can and have to clean the bondage sleepsack like every rubber item (as described in my Rubber 101). The weight and size makes handling the sleepsack a bit clumsy and due to the attached feet section, getting all liquids out before and after the wash is a bit difficult. Polishing the sleepsack takes a while just as applying talcum in the inside (never forget the arm pockets). And finally, the sleepsack should be stored hanging best to avoid creases. Despite all the hassle, I was surprised how often I use the rubber bondage sleepsack.

Conclusion: Extremely good value for money rubber sleepsack.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Good fit and arm pockets for tight bondage experience Only three runner on the zipper Libidex £299
Material thickness good compromise of bound feeling and sensual qualities Cleaning is a pain in the ass
Plenty of D-rings for additional fettering
Wide range of possible sizes

McHurt Rubber Paddles

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Vendor: McHurt

The McHurt Plain Rubber Paddle and Rubber Paddle with Holes

I sometimes get messages from rubber fetishist who are looking for impact implements made out of their favorite material. I already reviewed the rubber implements sold by Mr S and the vicious Ballistic Metal Viper but I guess you can never have enough spanking toys.

Construction

Today I will be reviewing to paddles: A plain oval one and a rectangular one with holes in the impact section. Both paddles are made out of industrial rubber which is different from the latex used for fetish play because aging protectors and antioxidants are added in the manufacturing process. Because of this you do not apply talc powder or silicone oil when storing the paddles or have to worry too much when they come in contact with oil or fat (though you should also not test their resistance too much). Of course rubber still is a hard to treat and delicate material. So the paddles do not look as refined and spotless as leather or wood paddles. But they have been executed perfectly. All the sharp edges from the water saw have been broken and deburred to prevent unintended cuts. The grip on both paddles are two thick pieces of screwed through the body with two sturdy bolts. So much for the similarities.

Detail of the Plain Paddle’s Rough Side

The plain paddle has an overall length of 30cm, half of it for the grip. The oval shaped impact section is 15cm long and measures 8cm at the widest spot. The body is made out of 6mm thick rubber which as a smooth and a rougher surface which comes from the manufacturing process. The rubber is just thin enough to still be floppy.

The other paddle is equally long and has the same grip length. The impact section is also 8cm wide but rectangular. Three rows with two holes each have been drilled into the surface to allow air to travel through them. The body is made out of two 6mm thick rubber pieces glues together on the rough side so you have a smooth surface on both sides. To strengthen the tie, seam runs around the paddle.

Playing with the Paddles

Detail of the Stichting

Through their unique construction, they produce unexpected sensations for rubber impact implements. First, let’s look at the plain paddle.

Usually, you could not make a long-lasting paddle out of 6mm thick rubber because it would break too easily. McHurt fixed that through the reinforced grip. The grip also focuses the kinetic energy purely on the impact section. Because of that the paddle can be used for light tapping and actually also warm-up. Increasing the power quickly transforms the tapping sensation into pure sting. The sting is a bit dulled when using the rough surface but it also adds an abrasive sensation. Especially when spanking powerful the plain paddle colors quickly. Sadly through the thick grip, the paddle is a bit unbalanced towards the grip.

The paddle with holes is a completely different matter. Through the weight, stiffness and denseness of the double layered rubber it is a thuddy bruiser. So it should only be used on well-padded body areas to prevent unintended injuries. The paddle does not really color that much but when it does, it leaves bruises. Due to the holes there is no air cushion softening the impact. So it is not for the faint of heart. To be honest, compared to other rubber paddles it takes quite some power to make the sub scream with this paddle. But luckily the paddle is well balanced so the wrist does not tire out easily.

Detail of the Grip’s Bolts

Rubber is a good material for sever spankings because is the sub starts to bleed or the impact pushes out tissue water, rubber can easily be sanitized. Simply wash the paddle with warm water and dish soap and spray with sanitizer after is tried.

How to get the Paddles

Even though McHurt has an online store, they do not sell everything on there – which sadly also applies for these paddles. Also, they are not located in the kinky part of town but in an inconspicuous corner store close to Tempelhof. So if you are interested in them, either drop them an e-mail or take the time to visit their store. They carry a lot of spanking toys you do not see everywhere so the trip is worth the way!

Conclusion: Uniquely designed rubber paddles with a wide range of sensations
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Sturdy design Plain paddle is not well balanced McHurt Approx. 30€ each
Easy to clean Due to material rough execution

 

SeriousToyS Rubber Sling

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Vendor: Vast

The SeriousToyS Rubber Sling

Rubber is one of the major fetishes in the kink community. As hot as the material is for fetish wear and gear it has some major drawbacks when it comes to manufacture toys out of it: It is hard to cut into shape making the manufacturing process complicated and thus expensive, compared to leather is cannot withstand much force, it dissolves after contact with oils and it needs to be maintained with silicone oil. So when it comes to toys for hard play I stick to leather.

Detail of the Stainless Steel Fittings

I know that there are some rubber slings out there but none of the addressed all the potential issues I mentioned above – unlike the SeriousToyS Rubber Sling I have bought. To be honest I was skeptical when considering the purchase because the sling is more expensive than most leather slings and after all being made out of rubber I feared I would at least have to deal with some of the drawbacks. But since the guy who designed this sling did an awesome job designing my bed with added bondage functionality I gave it a try.

The SeriousToyS Rubber Sling with Holes Cut into it

The sling is a five point design so there is space to rest your head when lying in the sling. It comes in two sizes: Standard which measures 122cm by 75cm or XL which measures 122cm by 95cm. They have also made a model with holes cut into the sling which is great for piss-heavy scenes. The sling is made out of three 2mm thick industrial rubber layers which are reinforced with Kevlar. Instead of using D-rings housed in riveted rubber loops for suspend the sling from stainless steel fittings are used. They are screwed to a counter plate with four screws. This design prevents shearing which is necessary. While most leather slings resp. their fittings give in around half a ton of static load at best an entire Smart car has been suspended from this sling. So even when you really plowing a heavier bottom in this sling, it can withstand the high dynamic load. However, there is a major drawback of using rubber as a sling material: It has a rather low thermal conductivity so even in a well heated room the sling will be rather cold when lying down.

Despite the material being hard to work with the manufacturing quality is perfect. Computer controlled water saws are used to cut the rubber so the shape is even. Unlike most other common rubber play items the edges of the sling have been deburred so there are no hard edges which could potentially damage rubber gear or abrase the skin.

Detail of the Three Kevlar reinforced Layers of Industrial Rubber

The Sling Suspension Solution in my Playroom

One of the main advantages of rubber is that it is unaffected by most things. Commonly in play involved substances like piss, poppers or silicone lube can tarnish a leather sling while the rubber maintains its mat shine. Being made out of chlorinated industrial rubber you can even use oil-based lubes like Crisco in this sling without damaging it. This in combination with the fact that it is easy to clean makes this sling the ideal choice for group scenes where you can simply spray the sling with a sanitizer and whip it off or raunchier play. Being made out of industrial rubber the SeriousToyS Rubber Sling doesn’t even need maintenance like applying silicone oil.

For suspending the sling for the ceiling they recommend a rectangle of 1.5m by 2.2m for the standard size sling and 2m by 2.2m for the XL version. However are you can see from the pictures taken in my playroom if you can live with some small niggles and are creative you can even put it up in room with a challenging layout. Last spring they also introduced stir-ups made out of the same rubber and with the same stainless steel fittings for 99€ a pair. They are larger and wider than all other stir-ups I have seen so far. So if you like to wear big waders or MX boots while getting played with in the sling these might be the stir-ups to go to.

Conclusion: The only high quality, heavy duty and easy to clean and maintain RUBBER sling I know.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Made for heavy duty play Rather cold when lying down Vast Standard: 379€

XL: 459€
Can with stand almost everything you expose it to
Made out of rubber
Easy to clean

Crackstuffers Missile

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Toy Properties
Form: Dildo
Material: Rubber
Colors: Blue
Firmness: Hard
Lube: Water & Silicone
Cleaning: Soaking in warm water with non-moisturizing, non scented dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store standing in a well-ventilated place and covered in a thin layer of silicone oil not touching other toys to prevent damaging the toys.

Vendor: Crackstuffers

The Crackstuffers Missile L

When it comes to anal toys Crackstuffers is the brand I get one of the most questions about, especially their depth trainers. Sadly I don’t own one of these toys (yet?) so I am writing a review about the one Crackstuffers toy I own: My Missile L.

Construction

The Crackstuffers Missile is a shape dildo. After a bluntish tip the first fifth of the dildo is tapered for easy insertion. The shaft of the dildo is divided into two equally sized sections. The first section features 6 deep grooves while the lower half is smooth. The Missile comes in four sizes.

Size Diameter Shaft Length
S 6.5cm 28cm
M 7.5cm 29cm
L 8cm 32cm
XL 9cm 33cm

Detail of the Deep Grooves

Playing with it

This dildo is not for the novice: The relatively large diameter already in size S, the blunt tip and firm material make the insertion a bit of a challenge. But once the inserted the firm material becomes an advantage. While with softer materials like vinyl or silicone the sphincter can deform the texture lessening the sensation the grooves stand firm for a nice and intense simulation of many nerve endings inside the sphincter. In order to do injure the anus vigorous fucking is only recommended when it is nicely relaxed and soft. So especially the larger sizes are not meant to start the play with. It is a great toy to end a fist scene with when the sphincter simulation causes a sensation overload. If you want to push it further (being tied) into a sling or in doggy position on a fuck bench and being challenged with the sensation of the grooves somewhere between messaging and tormenting the sphincter triggered a strong headspace of submission with some testees.

Example of possible Discoloring

But the Missile is also great for solo play. Since the bottom of the Crackstuffers Missile is plane and the material is firm enough to not stand up even under pressure it is the ideal dildo for riding (or making your squats more interesting if you want to spice up your workout).

However these material properties come with a price: Rubber does very easily discolor or take on odors Also it is unforgiving towards oil based substances. So using this toy in an heavy ass play scene where Crisco is involved will damage it.

Where to buy?

The Crackstuffers Missile can be bought at their online store for £40.95 to £65.95 depending on the size.

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil’ Rubber Paddle

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Vendor: Mr S

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil' Rubber Paddle

Mr S Nasty Rubber Stick & Nasty Lil‘ Rubber Paddle

Construction

As the name of these toys already states they are made out of rubber. While the scent is not as intense as on a piece of rubber clothing they have a faint, for most rubber fetishists stimulating tire scent. The stick is 46cm long, has a diameter of 1.9cm and weights approx. 150g. The main body of the paddle measures 18x8cm and has a 12×3.5cm long grip. The paddle is 1.2cm thick and weights 250g.

Both toys have a hole drilled through their rear end through which with leather string forms a strap.

Playing with it

A friend of mine from Chicago calls the Nasty Rubber Stick his “ouch stick” and right he is. Despite the considerably high weight for an impact toy, the little give in the material makes them stingy as hell! I recommend approaching the max. impact power very slowely cause the blast they deliver is intense and even a mild to medium continuous tapping can be agonizing. Naturally both toys color a sub very quickly. Even a medium blow will leave a red mark on the skin that will stay for some time. When you put real force into the single hits and concentrate on one area bruises will inevitably occur!

Detail of the Leather Strap

Detail of the Leather Strap

If you want to get a somewhat mild impact sensation out of these toys I recommend snapping them. Being very flexible the snap back not fast and thus the sensation is a mild thuddish sting.

Rubber conducts temperature very well. So as the cheeks of the sub begin to turn red and warm the paddle will get warmer. Of cause this also works in the other direction. For an interesting twist stick the paddle in a bucket of ice water. This effect isn’t as strong as with metals and due to begin frail when frozen don’t put the rubber toys into the freezer before a scene. For that I would recommend aluminum impact toys.

A big advantage of these toys is the material: When you play with different partners at a play party simple spray disinfection spray on the toys and rub it off. The rubber will take no damage from it. While you can use silicone oil or lube to make these toys shiny like rubber gear I would not recommend it. The silicone will make the toy slippy then hitting the sub and create a film on the impact area. So if you switch to another toy it will pick up the silicone lube.

Conslusion: Sever and low maintenance impact toy.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Creates intense sensation without much effort Hard to dose sensation Mr S’ Nasty Rubber Stick $28.95
Easy to clean Mr S’ Nasty Lil’ Rubber Paddle $28.95
Inexpensive

 

Buyer’s Guide To Collars

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ToyTorture.com has always been sort of a reflection of my own play style and my own desires manifested in toys. As authentic and honest reviews at that approach might create the flaw of it is that I am missing out on entire categories of toys. Sometimes I get asked about these categories over and over. Chastity is one of them, collars is another. Since a collar is the strongest bondage device out there yet I am not really into them I decided at the end of the Heavy Bondage Special to give a short overview of the collars out there. Especially in the paragraph about the symbolism of collars I am making a lot of generalizations. Please do not feel offended if your individual perception is different but celebrate it as the diversity that is the heart of our community. After that I briefly talk about the different materials collars can be made out of. The last and main part of this article are showing different kinds of collars. I sorted the collars into two categories: The first are decorative collars which primarily serve a symbolic purpose and through their designed are not primarily designed to be integrated into play. The latter category are functional collars which are made to be played with.

 

The Symbolism of Collars

Collars have a strong symbolic meaning in the BDSM community. They are a sign that a person belongs to someone. It is common for top who wants to establish a deeper and long-term orientated relationship with a bottom to put a collar around his neck to show him and the world that the sub belongs to him and is no longer free. This act is called “collaring”. Being collard usually implies a interdependent relationship: The top promises to give the sub something usually guidance, protection and play in exchange for the subs devotion, obedience, trust and loyalty. Due to the powerful contract which a collar symbolizes it is a very special piece of gear which is treated unlike any other. Usually only the top is allowed to put it on and take it off, most of the time also only the top may touch it. Touching the collar of a sub without asking the top for permission is considered highly offensive and even hostile by some people. In some high protocol situations it is even forbidden to talk to a collard sub because you are violating the property of another top. Also in a high protocol environment it is not uncommon for subs to walk around with a collar around his neck but with an open lock. This is a signal that he is open for a top to collar him. Closing the lock just for fun or laughs again is offensive because the sub probably hopes to get at least some of the affection listed above from the persons who closed the lock.

Materials

Collars can be made of nearly every fetish material out there. Most common are leather collars. Because the material is skin friendly and to a certain degree can absorb sweat it is best for long term wear. Rubber and neoprene lack this quality so wearing it for extended periods of time can lead to skin irritation, especially when wearing a collar out of stiff industrial rubber without deburred edges on bare skin. The last common material to mention here is metal. I have seen collars being made out of all different kinds of metal. However I would recommend only ones being made out of stainless steel or aluminum because even when exposed to sweat they do not rust. Other metals like cooper or steel oxidizes. Because a collar through constant movement experiences some physical stress corrosion prevention applied to steel like chrome or zinc wears off and the collar can rust again. Of cause noble metals like gold or platinum do not rust but you have to be quite the posh kinkster to afford such a collar. Metal collars come in form of chain, chainmail, rings or steel cable. When it comes to chain you can choose between welded and forged chain. Welded chain industrial made and thus cheaper and has a deburred weldseam. Depending on the quality the deburration is not as good as it should be so there is a potential for scratches when wearing a collar. So before wearing it check the seams of there are not rough edges.

More uncommon materials I have seen collars made out of are braided rope, jeans cloth, bike chain and tires.

Decorative Collars

Chain

Probably the most common form of the collars and thus comes in various styles (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). All have in common that they are closed by a pad lock which is mostly worn up front. The most common pattern is the anchor chain which is made out of round links which either come in long or short versions and in various thicknesses. Even when using a small pad lock the link size is usually so large that this kind of collar can’t be worn discreetly under a shirt. Depending on the personal style the chain can be worn longer or tight around the neck. The advantage of this chain is that you can easily attach things to the collar using pad locks or carabiners. Depending on the pad lock quality you can grab and pull the sub on this collar.

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Mr S Yellow Colors Aluminum Chainmail Collar

Chainmail

Chainmail is a material where small metal rings are linked together to form a mesh-like surfaces. Collars out of this material are lighter and smaller and thus more discreet than chains. Of cause they are also more fragile and should not be pulled on. A nifty feature of the Mr S Aluminum ones is that they come in different colors so you can use them a bit as a hanky. If you can a bit more weighted feeling try out the stainless steel one.

Torquator Collar

Stylewise somewhere between a chain pattern and chainmail this collar was originally designed to restrain dogs. So this collar is popular by dog players especially of wild ones. When pulling onto this collar please be careful because serious injuries can be the result.

 

Cable Lock

Another discreet option is the cable lock collar from Recon. The collar itself is made out of coated steel but since there are no moving links the coating will probably will not rub off keeping the cable from rusting. The two endings are made out of stainless steel with colored rubber accents so again you can show your favorite kink. Unlike the chainmail collar this one is also closed with a lock which has a great psychologically effect. The lock and the collar are small and discreet enough to be worn under a dress shirt during work yet to frail to be pulled on.

Rope Collar

If a closed look is too much of a statement or you don’t like the idea of metal around your neck (after all a collar is all about the headspace), Mr S came up with a rope collar. It is made out of black braided rope and closed with a leather strap and a non-locking roller buckle. If you ask the guys at Mr S nicely the can probably make you this collar also in other colors

Tolan Collar

This is basically an ergonomically shaped ring of steel around the sub’s neck. It is nearly seamless and rather sleek so it can be worn under a business shirt without showing off or attracting attention. Since it is made out of stainless steel it will not rust.

Jougs

I am not sure if to put jougs into this category or the play category because wearing them for an extended period of time is definitely a punishment! Jougs or iron collars are made out of piece of steel, sometimes lined with leather for additional comfort. They are closed by padlocks, integrated locks or screws. Sometimes they come with d-rings welded onto them for added play possibilities. Sometimes following antic models they already have cuffs for the hands attached or even also feet welded with chains onto them. Another version are double rigid irons for the neck and the wrists for real stress bondage.

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The Heaviest Parus Steel Collar Weighing 8.5kg

The most sever iron collars I know off are made by Parus in Munich. I already wrote a Christmas gift tip about them last year. They are really well made, almost seamless with the integrated lock and so heavy that with some models I would like to recommend consulting your doctor about disc problems before putting them on!

Regardless of what kind of iron collar you are getting when shopping for a joug please watch for deburred edges otherwise severe abrasions can happen!

Functional Collars

Bondage collar

Another quite common type of collars (p.e. from Mr S or Regulation). They basically are like a cuff style restraint just larger to fit around the neck. So very often you can get matching collars to your existing restraint set. Being made for play they come with d-rings to attach the sub to thing or restraint to the neck. Depending on the individual style some are locking which adds a sense of bondage. A pro tip: If you want to fetter a large boot, p.e. an MX boot, and your restraint set’s ankle cuffs are too small try out a collar. Most of the time they are large enough and will serve you well as a boot restraint.

Fetters Posture Collar

Fetters Posture Collar

Posture collar

A posture collar (look at Mr S or Regulation) is a more intense form of the bondage collar. It is quite wide and usually padded, sometimes it also has an anatomically formed chin rest. The effect of this design is that tilting of the head and nodding is getting extremely difficult locking the head in one place. Usually such a collar will also have d-rings and there are locking versions out there.

Chocking Collar

More a breathplay toy than just a simple collar please use this one with caution! This collar is basically a latigo leather belt that is closed by a rolling buckle tightly around the neck. On the other side of the belt is a small metal loop with a roller feature through which the belt exits. In that end a d-ring is added onto which a leash can be attached. If you pull on the leash the collar will tighten and chock the person wearing it.

Shock Collar

Shock collars were originally designed to train dogs. Onto a nylon collar a remote controllable box with two electrode pins is attached. Usually this kind of collars come with different intensity settings. I implore you to take advantage of these different settings and don’t start out too high! The shock boxes are designed to train even dogs which have thick fur and skin. On human skin they can leave burn marks or even damage the nerve system! There are fetish versions out there which are not so powerful but being a power bottom and pain pig myself I can see the temptations of “the real deal” especially when it comes to dog play. Yet still please be careful. Not sexual kink is worth losing your health permanently.

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Fetters Wrist-to-Neck Restraints

Wrist to neck Restraint

Not really just a collar but the leather version of an iron collar with attached restraints. It is a leather lined locking collar onto which two locking wrist restraints are riveted. These rivets allow for some movement around its axis but otherwise the head has to go where the hand wants to be. Especially with added bondage mitts this will leave the sub quite helpless.

Collars Accessories

Especially with the raise of pup and dog play in the last couple of years collar accessories have gained popularity. Most commonly dog tags are used either in their original purpose to mark the dog and write his name on it. But I have also seen a bouquet of different colored tags as hankies. Of cause a dog needs guidance and sometimes restraining so leather leashes become quite popular.

Mister B Double Faced Hoods

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Mister B Doulbe Faced Leather Hood

Mister B Doulbe Faced Leather Hood

After the last two hood suggestions I got some mails asking for a bit more budget friendly suggestion. A hood I really enjoyed playing with but sadly don’t own yet is the Mister B Double Faced Leather Hood. The design is similar to the HML Isolation Hood I featured last week but has open eyes and lacks the ear padding. This makes it good for not so experienced subs who want the leather gimp look and feel but are freaked out by too much isolation.

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Close

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Close

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Opend

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Opend

Being made out of soft leather it can be worn for extended periods of time and is a great piece of gear when being restrained in a sleepsack. And with a price of 199€, it is not too expensive. For a even more budget friendly option Mister B also has a rubber version of the double faced hood for 149€.