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Textured Silicone Paddle

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Texture Silicone Paddle from Amazon

Vendor: Amazon

A couple of years ago, this paddle was ubiquitous: It was sold in almost every sex shops (not so much in kink shops), both online and offline. Amazon sold it in over half a dozen colors. The price range was attractive between 9€ and 20€. Despite the omnipresence on some channels, I was never intrigued to buy one. In the midst of the COVID supply chain and shipping crisis this toy vanished, like many other toys from Asia. A couple of weeks ago while researching a very particular ball stretcher I saw it on Amazon in a bundle with a leather paddle and a blindfold for 7,99€. So I just ordered it to see if it is any good.

In the review I will focus on the silicone paddle only. The leather paddle is made out of cardboard leather without any supporting spring steel inside so you can count the strokes until it will break. And the blindfold is worse quality than the sleeping masks you get in budget airlines amenity kits.

Construction
The core of this 28.5cm long paddle is 5mm thick. At the top sits a 17cm long and 6cm wide head. In the center four standing quatrefoils perforate the head. Both sides of the paddle are textured. On the “smooth” side, there are sets of four vertically orientated oval bumps above and below each quatrefoil while next to each hole is a horizontal bump on each side. On the “spike” side sets of three 3mm tall pins replace the oval bumps.

The „smooth“ side with Rounded Bumps

There are recesses on the side of the impact area. On one side there are six oval studs textured with three pins studs on top, on the other side six slightly taller studs.

The head tapers into a grip section which is all over textured with the pins.

An oval perpendicular “base plate” is at the bottom of the handle to keep if from slipping out of the hand.

The paddle is made out of some kind of silicone. It is quite firm but due to being so thin is it still a very flexible toy. In this bundle, the paddle is red. But I have seen it also in black, white, lime green, yellow and pink.

There’s a seam running around the edge for the entire paddle indicating that is was cast in a foldable mould. It seems that the mould used for my toy was quite new because the seam almost unnoticeable in most areas (and quite noticeable, almost sharp) at the bottom of the base plate. If you get a toy with a sharp seam, you can carefull deburr it with acetone.

The Nasty side with Clusters of Pins

Play with the Textured Silicone Paddle

This paddle is what I call a “lazy top toy”. If you want a toy to make your sub cry quickly, go for it. Being light and made out of silicone, it is pure sting. (Light) tapping is possible but because it has so little mass, it is almost a digital paddle: You either feel nothing or you feel hard sting. So warming up with it is not possible. Being so light, it is hard to bruise with this paddle. Though hitting with the pinned side can lead to some nasty marks. Despite being rounded, when you hit hard and repeatedly, you can break the skin.

Since silicone is a very flexible material, you can easily develop momentum. With very little force, you can deal out intense blows. The flexibility also enables the paddle to wrap around the body if necessary so none of the kinetic energy is lost. The holes in the middle allow air to escape easily so there is no softening air cushion between the body and the paddle.

The textured paddle sides are a weird feature. Theoretically they can be used to target small body areas like the fold right below the ass cheeks. But since the paddle is so flexible, throwing it perpendicularly in a controlled way is almost impossible.

Being textured, it should be a nice toy for sensation play. While the bumps massage very lightly, the pins scratch. Though because the paddle is so flexible, it is a bit hard to control or to apply pressure for more intense stimulation.

The Handle all over textured with Pins

The silicone has one big advantage: It can be easily cleaned. So regardless if you are in a wet and messy situation, want to spank the messy nether regions of your little or are in a lube drenched area (careful, silicone lube will quickly disintegrate the toy!), you can play hit with this toy. Afterwards, soak it in hot soap water, rinse and you are done. Sadly, there is not hole or loop for storing the toy. But I just hang it on a hook through one of the upper holes.

All things considered, this is a fun novelty toy. It has its uses and applications but you really need to learn how and where to apply those. It is definitively not for novices since it can easily inflict intense pain or even small wounds.

Conclusion: Novelty toy for experienced connoisseurs of intense pain
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Inexpensive Almost no intensity ramp Amazon 7,99€
Different textures
Difficult to control
Easy to clean No hanging hole/ loop

Short Kantschu

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The Short Kantschu from Peitschenhandel

Vendor: Peitschenhandel

Construction
Originally the Kantschu was a braided single tail whip popular in the Slavic regions of Europe. Through the conquest of the Osmanic Empire this punishment tool mades it way to Turkey too. What sets it apart from other whips is the elongated two piece slapper which creates the characteristic “plop” when it hits the skin,

The Short Kantschu turns the whip into a paddle like toy. Like on a traditional Kantschu two pieces of leather have been braided in Chevron pattern around – in this paddle instance – a rigid yet flexible spring. At the top sits at 3x16cm large slapper. The two pieces of thin cover leather have been sown onto a double layer of “core” leather. The edges are not beburred, burnished or beveled which would have been nice. But considering the price and the manual labor which already went into making this toy, I can understand why this corner was cut. The core leather is a bit stiff and firm but I did not encounter chaffing or had a sub complain about an unintended sensation. So it should be ok,

Like on a whip, the shaft ends in a braided pommel which makes a good grip. It also helps create excellent balance. The tipping point is exactly one palm width above the pommel. The woven leather covering the pommel also holds a braided leather loop in place.

The Red and Black Chevron Braiding

There are two lengths available. A really short one with the overall length of 36cm and the one which I have at 47cm. The slapper has the same size on both models. Both lengths come in five color options: black, black & red, black & white, black & yellow and black & blue.

Play with the Short Kantschu

Many people are a bit afraid of single tails. They are hard to master and the two piece slapper of the traditional Kantschu makes that particular whip even more difficult to control. The Short Kantschu is an easy to handle alternative. To easy, off the rack usability contributes the single-piece slapper. Yes, you lose the double clap sensation and sounds of the ususal Kantschu slapper. But in this configuration you can easily target hits. And the iconic impact sound is still somewhat here.

The Multilayer Single Piece Slapper

With a bit of practice you can very precisely target specific body areas. The nimbleness of the short shaft in combination with the narrow slapper allows you to hit small areas to target like nipples, where the thigh meets the ass cheeks or the soles of the feet.

Practice is also necessary to unleash the full range of sensation contained inside this toy. Despite the firm leather inside the slapper, the Short Kantschu is not awfully stingy. In light to medium intensity it has a nice, gentle bite. But to really make it HURT you have to put some energy in and hit the same spot repeatedly. Through the spring inside, it can develop a nice momentum when (lightly) tapping. With some constrains, it can even be used for warmup – and without restrains it can bring someone to tears. But it takes practice to fully explore this toy and uncover the nuances inside.

The Pommel with Braided Loop

For me personally, this short Kantschu has replaced riding crops in most of my scenes. Being as short as most paddles, it can easily be used in closed quarters where a whip could never work. But the large slapper makes it easier to target even under difficult light scenarios. The wide range of sensations from a friendly smack up to bringing FOCUS into a scene makes a light carry for a wide range of different scenarios. Being so “soft” and focussed, I sometimes use this impact implement to hit the cheeks of a sub. This is a very strong and intense and culturally loaded practice so make sure to get explicit consent for it. But doing it is a very powerful act I would not dare to do with a whip or paddle.

Conclusion: Targeted and easy to handel whip-turned-paddle
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Wide range of sensation … in others corners are being cut Peitschenhandel Kurzer (kurzer) Kantschu: 53.95€

Kurzer Kantschu: 59.95€
Easy to handle and well balanced
In some parts great craftsmanship…

Latigo Slapper

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Vendor: Bare Leatherworks

The Bare Leatherworks Fullsize Latigo Slapper


This toy came second in last week’s which-toy-to-review poll on Bluesky and Insta. So let’s see if it is any good.
Construction
Being the slapper, the impact part of this toy is a long loop of stiff 6mm thick latigo leather. The edges are deburred so there are not accidental chafes. The toy comes in three length: The full size which I have bought with 42cm slapper length, the midsize with 25cm and the handy size with 15cm. At different summer camp I had the chance to play with all three length.

The leather belt is attached to a comfortable handle. On the handy size, the handle is 18cm long in total; on the full and midsize 23.5cm. The handle follows a classic flogger design. At the top, three sets of three screws attach the leather strap to the central rod, thus forming a bit of a top “knot”. The slapper is eqipped with what Bare Leatherworks calls a “ProGrip”. Other than on the smooth default handle style on the ProGrip a thick wire runs around the central core to texture it for better grip. The lining received an upgrade: Previously the grip was covered in rubber (like on their massage flogger). Over time it became a bit slippery due to sweat, especially on long and intense scenes. On my slapper, it has been replaced with rubberized fabric tape which is a bit coarser. This leads to a significant better grip. The bottom of the handle is again thicker and weighted to for a counter-balance “pummel”. Because of this the slapper is impressively well balanced! The toy is finished with an eyelet a the bottom with a nice leather loop threaded through it for securing it to the wrist and easy storage.

Top: The Latigo Slapper with the Fabric Tape Lining
Bottom: Massage Flogger with Rubber Lining

This toy is a labor of love from two kinksters’ side hustle in the Pacific north west. You can tell that this toy was designed and made by sadists for sadists. The build is heavy duty for long, intense scenes. This slapper will not fail you. But, this is not a mass produced toy by crafts people who do nothing else but a bit of a hobby. So you can find some charming imperfections like not all screws being in line or sitting perfectly inside the grommets. I don’t mind at all as it does not impact the impact sensation of this impact toy. But if you have OCD or look for perfect execution, this might annoy you.

Example of Slightly Off Screws

Play with the Latigo Slapper

This toy is a one trick pony: It is a mid- to end scene stingy toy (for punishing). A friend of mine called my full size “like a short and narrow prison strap” which I find an accurate description. The blows can be targeted well and if you put power into them really HIT. While with the handy size you can do some tapping or light hitting, the larger ones are to flappy for that. You really need acceleration (= kinetic energy) to straighten them out which of course increases the impact intensity. Because of this they cannot be used for warming up.

When you buy this toy, you have to be patient because it really takes time to break it in properly. Off the shelf the thick latigo is very stiff. The handy sized one almost performs like a paddle, the full size is almost difficult to throw because it flaps around a bit. I wish Bare Leatherworks would have used softer latigo like Mr S does for their restrain belts. In order to break mine in, I am hitting roof poles since bottoms are hard to come by here.

6mm Thick Latigo Leather

Until properly broken in, the larger slappers have a bit of thud to them. After all, the leather is a lot of accelerated mass hitting the ass. But the material cannot hide its heritage. Being made out of stiff latigo leather, this toy is a stinger! Hitting hard delivers a sharp blow. Once broken in, the thud takes a backseat and there is almost only sting left. The sting is most intense at the tip where the loop connects the two sides of the slapper.

The Braided Leather Loop at the bottom

Broken in, the midsize is the easiest to target and control because it roughly has the size of a pair of buttocks. My full size needs bit of practice; it almost handles like a flogger. When targeting, you need to consider that the tip might wrap around, delivering a sharp pain to a not warmed up body area.

Being just 5cm shorter than most standard sized floggers, I sometime incorporate my slapper into flogging or whipping scenes when the bottom wants and needs it hard. Hitting the already bruised and irritated shoulders with the tip of the slapper will make almost every bottom jump.

Conclusion: Nasty and intense stinger which needs some time to master

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Well balanced

Needs time to break in

Bare Leatherworks

Handy: $77.95

Mid: $97.95

Full: $109.95

Comfortable to hold over extended periods of time

Execution not as precise as on other toys

Fetters The Orb

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Fetters The Orb CBT Impact Toy

Vendor: Regulation

If this design looks familiar, you have probably seen toys massage tools from Bongers which are made in the USA. Usually pervertables are cheaper than dedicated toys made out of fetish materials like leather or rubber. But even before the tariff war madness started, Bongers were already twice as expensive in the EU than this toy. So it definitively worth taking a look at it now!
Construction
Regulation calls this impact implement “Paddle” which I find a bit misleading. In my imagination a paddle is a blade- or shovelshaped impact surface leading to a handle section. The Orb however is 7.3cm diameter sphere (or orb) of soft foam covered in soft black garment leather. Around the circumference of the ball runs a metal ring covered in red leather keeping the ball in place.

Attached to this is a 32cm long piece of spring steel covered in a spiral of red leather. The lower 12cm of the rod are covered in two layers of soft leather to form a thicker handle section. The leather sheath is sown together with a cross stitching which is a nice design touch. Sadly the edges are neither burnished or deburred. Due to the leather being soft, the edges do not feel sharp. But these finishing touches missing are kind of weird in an overall very refined and high quality toy.

Detail of the Stitching and the D-ring for Storage

At the bottom a perpendicular leather strap is holding a small D-ring in place for easy storage of the toy.

Play with The Orb

The main play area for The Orb is CBT, or more precisely ball busting. The head is small and nimble enough to fit well between the thighs, targeting the small family jewels. It’s round shape makes the balls nicely jump to the left and the right if they are not kept in place by a ball stretcher. Being made purely out of foam, the impact sensation is pure thud and has an intensity sweetspot for this delicate body area. Since the shaft is made out of stiffer spring steel, it will develop a bit of momentum and on the other hand not transfer the entire kinetic energy onto the balls. Being so stiff, I would not recommend using it for snapping the balls. The intensity will be very high and hard to control.

The Foam Sphere being held in Place by a Leather Covered Metal Ring

If you want to snap, do it on the ass or the thighs. The Orb is a great thuddy yet focused impact toy. Due to the small impact surface, it is not really made for warm-up. But hitting just one spot can create agony even with minimal sting throughout the scene. If you hit hard, The Orb is a bit of a bruiser but not too bad if you don’t hit any veins directly.

However, if you want to add (a bit of) sting to your play, twist it 90° and hit with the orb’s metal frame. While the sting is a bit softened by the soft leather lining, being made out of metal, there is still a lot of kinetic energy transferred onto the subs body. Because of this I would not recommend hitting the balls like that. There chances of accidentially hitting the epididymis or the seminal dutcs are too high which almost always leads to serious injuries and loosing the testicle. For an intense glans spanking, bastinado or hitting the sensitive area between the thighs and the ass cheeks just RIGHT, this small impact area is perfect!

The Unfinished Edge of the Handle above the Leather Covered Shaft

In addition to that, you can also grab the toy by the orb and hit with the handle. Despite being covered in soft leather, it has some sting to it, especially when you hit with the cross stitching. This is firmer and textured and this will sting more. But be careful when you are hitting. The D-ring will flap around and also accelerate, leading to very stingy afterclap.

Conclusion: Thuddy ball impact toy with a stingy side

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Unique design & sensations

Handle a bit unfinished

Regulation

£34.99

Easy to target

Strong stingy side despite thuddy heart

Fetters Leather Studded Paddle

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The Fetters Leather Studded Paddle

Vendor: Regulation

Construction
Like last week, this paddle has a very traditional design. The head with its slightly rounded corners is 20cm long and tapes almost shovel like from 10cm above the handle to 10.8cm at the top. At the bottom it flows into a 14cm long handle which taper slightly for a secure grip. Two layers of 4mm thick bridle leather with a metal spring in the middle are the basis of this paddle. They are glued and sown together for a compact and solid feel. The edges are deburred and burnished so there is now unintentional chafing.

Through the top layer six rows of three 4.5mm tall pointy, yet dull Ø7mm studs each are screwed. Below the rivets a third, at 3.5mm a bit thinner layer of bridle leather is attached to the top of the handle. Where it ends at the head five (!) rivets support the glue in keeping this layer in place. This monopiece construction with the reinforced handle gives the paddle a rigidity and thus most kinetic energy is transferred onto the sub.

The Embossed Fetters Logo with the Raising Studs

At the bottom a 18cm long leather string loop helps the securing the paddle to the wrist even in heavy scenes. And once you are done with play, it can be easily stored away.

Play with the Leather Studded Paddle

This review was a multiple reader request. I actually did not know about this toy. But since this paddle does not break the bank, I simply bought it, because I was curious how the studs would feel.

The Studded Paddle’s Smooth Side

The toys has a bit weird ergonomics. There are several categories of toys: Small and nimble for targeting small areas, long and narrow for hitting both cheeks at ones, about-palm-size for single cheek targeting or over the knee. The Leather Studded Paddle sits in between the latter two categories which require a bit adjusted hitting techniques. When hitting a single cheek target with the upper third of the head (the central stud of the second row from the top is a good focal point), not the center. Otherwise, the edge will hit the apex of the other cheek which usually has denser fat tissue, does not compress as well and thus diverts the blow. In actual play it is not as dramatic as it might sound. But when I dealt my first blows, I was a bit puzzled that they did not land where I wanted them to and it took a few minutes to adjust.

The Triple Layer Handle Design

Once you have gotten over this, you are going to hit HARD! Due to being so stiff and rigid, it is a very stingy paddle. With very light tapping, you can use the smooth side for warm-up. But as soon as you increase the intensity, it starts to sting quite severely quite firmly. Again, this is something you need to get use to. Since it is more rigid and has less flex than comparable paddles, lower levels of intensity will have a noticeable effect.

This is even more with the studded side. The metal peaks focus the impact energy in these 18 points until the full paddle hits. The stiff leather in combination with the metal spring already has little give, the metal is unforgiving. Then using the paddle on other, less well padded areas (for example the hands), keep that in mind. Hitting joints or bones with the studs can lead to serious injuries.

While the smooth side already colors quickly, the metal studs make the textured side a bruised.

The studs are each about 2cm apart from each others. So each and every one can be felt separately. For sensation play, you can drag them over the subs body. They are “rounded” enough to offer a nice bruised and tender tissue massage on already impacted body areas.

The Dull yet Spikey Studs

Sadly, on design choice makes the studs a little bit hard to use. The studs are only a millimeter taller than the additional leather layer to reinforce the handle. That makes using the full studded impact area difficult. During sensation play, you have to be careful not to unintentionally push the unburnished and thus slightly edge of the handle reinforcement against the skin. This is a minor point, especially considering that the toy was not intentionally designed for sensation play. But still, I would appreciate of the reinforcement was on the smooth side.

Due to the weight of the metal spikes, the paddle is a bit unbalanced. The pivot point is below the bottom row of studs. It is not terribly bad but definitively noticeable. You should now swing this paddle from the wrist or tab over extended periods of time.

Conclusion: Intense, well-made paddle with some ergonomic quirks

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Heavy for intense sensations even with low impact energy

Weird ergonomics

Regulation

£38.99

Loop for securing and storing

A bit unbalanced

Very wellmade

Fetters The Claw

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Fetters the Claw CBT Paddle from Regulation

Vendor: Regulation

Over the past year, I have accumulated quite a few new impact toys, unintentionally almost all from Regulation. Since I haven’t done an impact special in quite a while, let’s kick off the new year with looking at tools helping you „reward“ your sub when he has been a bad boy.

Construction

The Claw has a traditional paddle design with a 71mm round head that flows into a 140mm long handle. It is made out of two layers of thick bridle leather with a metal spring in the middle for added stability for years to come. The two layers are sown and glued together; the edges are beveled, deburred and burnished. This gives the paddle a quality feel and it lies solidly in the hand. A nice touch is the embossed Fetters logo below the spiked pad.

While one side of the head is just the smooth bridle leather, on the other side there is a 59mm round firm foam pad covered in red leather. On top of the pad there is a circle of eight really pointy metal cones with an additional one in the center, giving the toy its name.

The Smooth Side of the Paddle Stinges quite a Bit

At the bottom of the shaft a lever-operated carabiner is riveted onto it. The eyelet diameter of 10mm is large enough to attach the paddle to a belt loop which is a great additional feature compared to just a D-ring for playroom storage. Since due to the ergonomics of this paddle you will not deal big blows with the Claw (see below), I do not really miss a loop for the wrist.

Play with The Claw

This section is going to be divided in two parts. First I will talk about the smooth leather side, then about the spiked one because this is truly a two-sided toy.

Regulation markets this toy as a ball busting paddle. Because of this the head is small and the handle just as long as it needs to comfortably hold the toy. This way it is nimble and can easily target small body areas. It is narrow enough to smack the balls between thighs as long as there is enough space for the balls to hang freely (for example on a bondage chair). But it is equally good for falaka or hitting that sensitive spot where the thighs meet the buttocks. Having such a relatively small impact area, it focuses the kinetic energy and this impact force on a small area, making the Claw a bit of a bruiser. Having a shorts handle, it is a bit difficult to gather momentum and thus deal really heavy blows on the ass and thigh. Since swats on the balls are generally supposed to be bit softer and more controlled, this is not really a negative thing.

The Carabiner is for Easy Attaching and Storing but Developes Momentum when Hitting

The spring inside the paddle makes it just a little bit bounce and thus perfect for tapping and snapping. When tapping the carabiner swings and develops momentum. My recommendation is holding the shaft on the rivet between thumb, index and middle finger while restraining the carabiner inside the palm. Being so small, the paddle is also a bit head-heavy and unbalanced. But since it is not made for heavy and continuous hitting, it is unlikely that it will make the wrist tired.

Since the bridle leather is smooth, firm and has a lacquered surface, the impact sensation is stingy. Being so light, it is not really made for warm-up. It either stings or is almost unnoticeable.

So much for the smooth side. Now to the spikes.

These Spikes give The Claw its Name

Let me reiterate: The spikes are pointy and sharp! They are not like on other paddles where the spikes are dulled or cone-shaped rivets. You can cause serious injuries with them, especially on the balls. The scrotum skin is thin and sensitive. Light tapping with this toy is ok. Any stronger force will lead to breaking the skin and cause bleeding. This effect is even intensified when moving the toy in a scratching movement. It is actually a good thing that due to the ergonomics you cannot deal hard blows. This could lead to flesh wounds! The padded pad gives the spikes a bit of bounce but it does not really softens the blows. It is a nice design feature and makes the paddle a little bit more intimidating looking but I do not see the functional use for it since it does not dull the blows. So, what are the spikes good for? I used them for a combination of sensation play and mind fuck. Drag them over the bottom’s skin, varying the pressure from a light scratch to digging in deeply, telling him that soon they will dig into his body, propelled by full force, will most likely inflict terror. Then start light tapping, scratch a bit again, play with his fear and anticipation. Due to being so sharp, do not used gear to soften them. They will tear rubber, scratch leather and rip lycra or cotton.

Detail of the Stichting and Finished Edges

One unexpected use case is (AB)DL play: If you put on several layers of diapers you need to perforate the outside plastic layer of the inside diaper to allow the liquid to get to the next layer. You need to do this without destroying containment of the absorbent stuffing so randomly ripping with a knife does not work. The Claw is perfect for this! The spikes puncture, rip and tear the plastic while keeping the stuffing intact. This also means that the ass is protected from injuries during the process. And if your little is naughty, the Claw is a great, not too severe OTK paddle.

Conclusion: Nasty small paddle with a dangerously mean side

Pros

Cons

Where to get

Price

Small and nimble for precise hitting

… that flops around when hitting

Regulation

£29.99

With the coupon code ToyTorture you get 10% off your purchase

High quality feel

A bit unbalanced

Carabiner for easy attachment…

Seahorse & Kthulu

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Toy Properties

Form: Dildo
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: 13 colors included & 12 for a surcharge
Firmness: Soft to Medium, custom degrees possible
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Mr Hankey’s Toys

This review has been long in the making. It was actually scheduled to be the first review of 2024 because for years I have been asked to review the Seahorse. Despite being a texture lover, I was never that keen on the Seahorse because the design freaked me a bit out (like tentacles). But having taken one for the team several times and constantly pushing my boundaries, I decided to give this toy a go. Alas, then the cyber attack happened and there were no reviews anymore. So, instead of opening, I am closing the year with these BIG boys.

Construction

When looking at the toys, I was inclined to call this the sea monster edition because both toys are in the broadest way nautically inspired.

The Mr Hankey’s Toys Seahorse & Kthulu

The Seahorse is best describe as a (almost) human dick with a fishing net wrapped around. The glans is medium-tapering and the glans rim is textured with little bumps. The thick shaft is slightly wedge-shaped and bulges at the bottom. The entire shaft is textured with faint ridges. The stem is overlaid with five vertical (one of them “ventral”) and five horizontal veins which form a grid pattern. There the ridges meet, more or less small bumps indicate knots. Below the bulge at the bottom and above the nuts there is a cluster of three thick veins. The bottom are two thick realistic balls which are also textured with the ridges.

While the Seahorse is almost human, Kthulu is truly a great old monster. Instead of glans there is just a half-dome. The upper third of the toys is texture with a random cluster of half-domes and bumps, almost boils which are textured with shallow veins. Below it is a narrow neck which is textured with horizontal ridges. The lower half is a cluster of twisted vertical veins which look like tentacles grabbing the circular base.

Like all MHT toys, both are made out of platinum silicone. The materials is 100% body-safe, super-smooth and easy to clean. A little grain of salt is that silicone toys must not be used with silicone or hybrid lube. Both kinds of lube will disintegrate the surface. Water and oil based lube are safe to be used with silicone toys.

The Vac-U-Lock in the Base of both Toys

Silicone can come in almost every firmness. Choosing the right firmness for your kind of play is important since it impacts the feel and ergonomics of the toy. The firmer the silicone, the less the texture gently massages but “scratches” the sphincter (silicone cannot actually scratch tissue but like all anal toy tear when there is too much stretch too quickly). Also, since the sphincter cannot squeeze the toy in the direction of least resistance, the firmer a toy, the harder to take. On the other hand, softer toys do not stand up and bend away when pressure is applied. So they are harder to handle, especially when riding solo or playing with less trained holes. Since this year, MHT offers four firmness levels with 40% Soft and Extra Firm being new ones which I have not tried yet. Due to the heavy texture and head-heaviness of both toys, I would recommend sticking with 75% Soft and Medium Firmess on the Kthulu and 75% Soft on the Seahorse (why, see below).

Like the firmness, silicone can cover a wide range of colors and patterns. It takes on the colors easily and they do not fade over time. The standard color range includes 13 colors and 12 UV or difficult to handle colors for an up-charge of $29.95 or two marble colors for $39.95.

Seahorse’s Glans

For only $4.95 a Vac-U-Loc hole can be added to every toy. Originally designed to attach the toy to fuck machines, there are a number of nifty accessories out there for this kind of system: Handles, Strap-On harnesses, suction cups and double-dildo connectors. Because of this I highly recommend adding this inexpensive feature to your toy. There are just too many useful scenarios along the way to go cheap on this one – even if you don’t have the accessories. During play I stick my finger in the hole to control the toy more easily.

Playing with the Seahorse and Kthulu

The Seahorse is a mean and demanding toy. Since the grid is not strictly geometrically but twisted – like a fishing net around an object – there is no real resting place for your sphincter. It constantly gets stimulated on one side while needing to relax and open up for another vein on the other side. This makes the Seahorse a toy difficult to take. It is definitively not a scene starter. And most definitively not a width trainer. But when the hole is loose and the anal lips are just flapping around the toy, the Seahorse is a horny fucker! Through the massive base, it has a firm and secure stand, even when bouncing on it hard. The big nuts are a bit hard to grab when playing with a top. If you want to play with a partner, go for the Vac-u-Lock hole for his thumb. Once the toys has been stabilized this way, the big balls are perfect for twisting the toy inside the bottom. Since the texture is equally intense vertically as horizontally, twisting the toy unlocks a (w)hole new dimension. This also makes the toy quite the rosebud bloomer.

The Veiny Fishing Net Texture

Even more than with other toys, the texture intensity makes choosing the right combination of size and firmness important. Usually my advice for choosing a toy is “Don’t buy toys for the hole you have, buy toys for the hole you want.” For the Seahorse my advice is “Look a diameter you can comfortably take, substract 15% and make that number your size guide.” When configuring my toy, I used my usual metric “When in doubt, go big or go home” which landed me at XXXL and leaned towards the Med Firmness because I really want to feel the texture. Despite being anally quite experience and despite using a fair amount of poppers, the toy is too big and to firm to get into the drool-inducing massage flow I get when riding a friend’s Seahorse. If I had to chose again, I would probably go for “just” a large and 75% Soft (40% Soft will most likely keep the toy from standing up straight). The softer silicone is also necessary to unleash the toys full potential. Since it is so thick, it does not really bend, making it difficult to take deep. And this does not even take into account the heavy texture which will really fuck with your second sphincter, especially when the silicone is firm.

Seahorse’s Big Base & Vein Cluster at the Bottom

While the Seahorse starts out nice and becomes a mess further down, Kthulu is quite the opposite. The half-dome at the very tip forces the sphincter open instead of gradually opening it up. Right at the apex the big boils start so the opening process is rather brute force. Because of this it is again not a scene starter but a gape tickler. The complex cluster is best enjoyed in the hands of a skilled top how can not only twist the toy inside the sphincter but can also alter the angle of the penetration. Even small alterations of the attack vector greatly changes the sensation. Since there are nooks and valleys between the bumps, a skilled top can use the Kthulu for prostate stimulation and with the right pressure and firmness for prostate milking.

The Heavily Clustered Tip of Kthulu

Riding it brings out a different kind of sensation. In order to fully enjoy the toy, you have to twist it a bit to find the right orientation of the bumps towards your sphincter. Once found, the bumps will “irritate” the sphincter, making it sensitive. This sensitivity is awesome when riding on the lateral ridges below the bumps – ideally when a bump is pressing against the prostate.

The lower half again is more of a tops tool. Twisting the entwined tentacles creates a sensation of vortex. This is enhanced when twisting in once direction while pushing in and the other while pulling out.

Depthwise, Kthulu is a real advanced toy. Through the “neck” in the middle, the toy has a natural bending point for going deep. However, while it is already a bit of a challenge for the anus to take the tip, for the second sphincter you really need an experienced hole.

The Tentacle Entangled Shaft below the Ridge Textured Neck

All things considered, my testees and I had some fun riding Kthulu or stuffing the hole while lying on the back. But this dildo is best enjoyed with another partner or a fuck machine (which can twist).

Where to buy?

Mr Hankey sells their toys directly through their website. This is the best way to get them when you want to customize them even further. They also run promotions on a regular basis so check their page regular to snatch a bargain. The Seahorse starts at $165.85, the Kthulu at $129.95. But depending on your size and how many extras you add, they can go up beyond $300.

Cobra Chastity Cage

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The Kink3D Cobra with the Key Sleeve and Nether Nudger

Vendor: Kink3D

Welcome back – earlier than expected. Ever since I posted the first pic of my Cobra on Insta and Twitter my inbox has been exploding! In the over 12 years I have been reviewing BDSM and kink toys I have never had so much interest in a toy, been asked particular questions or been urged to quickly publish a review before Locktober begins.

I am not a person to quickly reach a verdict about a toy, especially about one that has been designed for long-term wear (and one for reasons explained below I currently cannot wear for extended periods of time). But again I am humbled by the trust you put into my thoughts so this will be a first more or less in-depth look that I will probably follow-up in a couple of months with additional thought.

Construction

The Kink3D Cobra is a 3D printed cage made out PA12 nylon. This material is on the sturdier and also pricier end of the printing material market. Currently Kink3D offers cages and accessories made out of black, hot pink and aqua blue. I have gotten many questions when why they don’t offer red or lime green ones (talking about summer of the brat) which I have forwarded to Kink3D. What I can assume with my limited 3D printing knowledge that color pigments can effect the sturdiness of the material. So probably some R&D is necessary before new colors can be introduced.

The different Colors Kink3D offers: Black, Fusion Pink and Aqua Blue

The material strength is about 4mm in the middle of the beams making them thicker than the many other 3D printed genuine designs and let alone Cobra knock-offs from China. Due to the material strength the cage is slightly bulkier than delicate metal cage designs but actually lighter than most titanium cages. Stainless steel cages are weighing multiple times of the Cobra. But like with metal cages, when you compress the Cobra with your hands, there is no flex. Because of the heavy duty design I have never received a messages about a broken Cobra cage on my website. Due to the warmth, moisture and constant mechanical stress especially the points where beams meet are prone to breaking. This is especially the case with thinner built polymer cages or if cheaper material are used. I could create a coffee table book with pictures of broken cages I have been sent in the last three years when 3D printed chastity cages really took off.

Another indicator of the great build quality of the surface finish. There are no rough edges or pinpoints. The surface is covered in a semi-gloss smooth texture that is easy to clean, does not leave finger prints and feels warm to the touch.

The design is a traditional three piece design with the cage itself, the base ring and an internal lock. As a standard the locks are keyed alike. But for $25 you can order a randomized lock if you really want to feel secure and helpless. Though truth to be told since the lock is rather small it can be picked very easily by a moderately skilled lock pick. During Folsom Europe I have talked to a few lock picking kinksters regarding the Cobra’s internal lock. It turns out the challenge apparently is picking a lock parallel to your body literally locked in your crotch.

Putting on the Cobra

You start with putting the base ring on. My recommendation is going balls first and then squeeze the dick through. Then you put the cage over your shaft. If skin gets caught, use their Nether Nudger to adjust (see below). When joining the cage and base ring, note that the pins on the cage are not only for guiding but also for sturdily connecting both parts. If the pins are not completely sunken into the holes of the base ring, the lock will not fit! This was actually the biggest misunderstanding when I firstly put on the cage myself. I thought they should only align. But it they the cage does not meet the base ring, the lock cannot be pushed through the entire lock house.

The GUiding Pins need to be Pushed Completely into the Holes on the Base Ring. Otherwise the Lock cannot be pushed through

Speaking of the lock, that is a bit of a challenge to put in. It twists very easily to the shackle jams inside the lock house. Until now I have not found a good way to insert the lock. If I guide it holding the key, the shackle will flip; if I guide it on the lock, the heavy head of the key turns the lock involuntarily, jaming the shackle. But since you are probably not unlocking so often as I do (again, see below), this does not matter as much.

What surprised me in the review process how comfortable you can wear the Cobra even when having a bush. Of course, you need to make sure that hair is not caught between the guiding pins and the holes or inside the lock house. But other than that there is little chance of pinching and tugging.

Sizes & Sizing

At the moment Cobra offers 8 different sizes both in a standard and wide version. In order to determine your size, measure your flaccid dick from the base to the tip. When you are like me and have a meatier dick or want to wear a large piercing inside the cage, go for the wide version. Over the past decade I have tried many chastity cages and they were all too narrow to house my large foreskin covered glans, let alone with a 8x15x12mm piercing. But the Cobra R Wide is so spacious that I almost don’t notice the cage when being soft. Picking the right size is important: If the cage is too long, the glans sit in the shaft tube instead of the bulges head section. If the cage is too short, it can uncomfortably compress your dick, seriously reducing the long-term wear potential. You can find the cage size imprinted on the inside below the locking ring.

There are 8 sizes of base rings which again cover a really wide range of package sizes. Though ending at 60.3mm width I know at least a few big boys who need a larger one. But I am certain Kink3D can accommodate even thick members of the gay community. The ring size is imprinted in the nudge where the locking ring of the cage enters the lock house of the base ring.

The rings are slightly compressed at the tops and elongated at the sides for a rough egg shape. This shape is more anatomically correct and reduces pressure and leverage when moving.

To even further accommodate different anatomies every size is available in three versions: Standard is a simple round 8mm thick round piece of polymer. The XD has an oval intersection with a depth of 10.5mm. This way the gap between the cage base ring is even small. When you have very small, mobile or tight balls this might be the right one for you. If you are like me and have meatier balls or and testicle prosthesis, Kink3D offer also Curved rings which bend 5mm backwards following the anatomically shape of your taint. It reduces the pressure on the balls. By widening the gap from 11mm to 16mm smaller balls can of course more easily slip through the crack.

The Roughly Egg Shaped Base Ring

Choosing the right ring size and is a bit trickier. Your cockring is a good size reference. Though through the egg-shape the behavior of a base ring can be different. The task of the base ring is different than a cockring: The base ring should comfortably and securely keep the Cobra attached to your body without you being able to pull the dick out or a ball slipping through. A cockring should keep the blood inside your penis. Prolonging an erection while being locked in a chastity cage is actually an adverse effect. So especially when you are a grower start with a larger size. Furthermore, depending in your form of day, how full your balls get over time during chastity and the environment (warmer temperatures and higher humidity will make the ball sack looser) your testicles will looks, feel and behave differently. So you might need two or more rings for a perfect fit in different situations or seasons.

If you have the possibility to try out different base rings, I strongly recommend doing it! This is only a snapshot but gives you a good impression if the ring is too tight. The gold standard is trying the base ring with a fitting cage. Since the ring and the cage are connected, the cage exerts leverage on the base ring, pulling it forward and upward. This movement and pull can obstruct circulation to taint and balls. If you feel a burning or tingling sensation in your balls or on your taint, you should take off the cage and try a larger and/ or curved base ring. Constant pressure on your taint and balls can cause lasting irritations on your balls which can lead to serious injuries, especially when the seminal ducts or epididimys are effected.

This is actually the case with my testicle prosthesis: Over time the standard #4 ring put pressure on my cyborg ball and obstructing circulation. As an experienced kinkster who can differentiate between different kinds of pain and knowing that nothing down their could actually necrotize, I placed the pain sensation in the “annoying”, not the “dangerous” category and wore the cage until it got too annoying. Sometimes these were 12 hours, sometimes four hours. The pain was so annoying that I could not fall asleep. Because of this for the review I spent some days and some nights locked but never managed a full 24h. During Folsom Europe a friend pushed me as a virtual key holder to go locked and chaste as long a possible over a couple of days. Despite having the opportunity and indeed order to unlock when it became too uncomfortable I was a good boy and pushed myself until I got released in a scene on Sunday. This push irritate the nerves on my scrotum which are still recovering from the implantation surgery so much that I could not lock for a couple of days. Of course this a borderline case which luckily only effects very few men. But it illustrates well the importance of a correctly fitting base ring! And it also shows the paramount rule of chastity: Physical and mental health comes first!

So my next steps will probably getting a couple of new rings (#4 Curved, #5 and #5 Curved) and see how much I can push myself. You will read all about it in the update in a couple of months.

Long-term Wearing & CBT in the cage

Despite not going for really long streaks, I have had enough wearing experience to give your a glimpse into being locked 24/7 in a Cobra.

The most important aspect of a chastity cage is “How secure is it?” I would place the Cobra on the securer end of the security spectrum. If it is really well-fitted, it is almost impossible to pull the dick out. This is especially true when you are wearing a large piercing. It takes a bit of practice and twisting and turning the cage to get the piercing nicely rested in the head segment. Since you cannot twist the cage while being connected to the base ring, it is impossible to get a large piercing out of the head segment while being locked. For added safety you can of course use a PA lock when you are uncut.

Different Nudging Tools

How a Prince Albert piercing behaves inside the Cobra was actually one of the most often asked reader questions. To be frank, I was surprised how well and easy they both played together. When I got the cage, I was wearing an 8x19x14mm screw in ball, meaning the external diameter of the piercing was 35mm. That was a border line size for the R Wide! It was wearable but required some adjustment throughout the day. The piercing would twist, lock in place and put uncomfortable pressure on my foreskin. Since the piercing was so large it could barely move, I had to take the cage off in most instances. Since sizing down to 8x15x12mm I can easily adjust while wearing the cage using Kink3D Nether Nudger. This is a small 3D printed pin you can wear in your key chain. Especially for meatier and uncut guys, I consider this $10 accessory an essential – regardless if you have a piercing or not! It helps you push the skin in the right direction or adjust the piercing. When you are a grower or uncut, the skin folds sometimes get caught when getting hard or getting soft, leading to really uncomfortable pinching! The tip of the Nether Nudger helps to adjust and push the skin into place. Is is small and nimble enough to fit between the beams and long enough to reach even hard to get-to spots. While you can in theory use other pins, I find the Nether Nudger the most handy tool. In times of need when mine was not at hand, I have used tooth picks (don’t try that at home!), Montblanc pens (kind of ok, but too wide) or keys (depending on the key either too points and scratchy or too wide to get anywhere). The best substitute I have found at my desk was a small mechanical pencil from Liberty, a British friend gifted me some 15 years ago. If you want to keep your kink classy, go for it. But the Nether Nudger fits the aesthetics, material and design of the Cobra better.

When you Cobra is well-fitted, you do not notice it at all as long as your dick stays soft! This is due to the light weight. Heavier cages, especially ones made out of stainless steel develop momentum when moving around. The Cobra is a very calm cage. Cheaper and older cages we locked by a pad-lock that could clink against the cage or its sharp edges and corners press into your lower abdomen. Having an integrated lock this irritation does not occur with the Cobra. So it is perfect to wear all day in almost every kind of cloths.

Despite the R Wide being on the larger end of the size scale, it is not really noticeable as a chastity cage. Most people will just identify it as a bulge. During the review process I have worn the Cobra under jeans and gym cloths, chinos and thin suit cloths with Nasty Pig or Addicted briefs. The structure of the cage does not print through the cloths so people, especially non-kinkster, don’t notice you wearing a cage. Even under .6mm rubber it is just a bulge, under .45mm you start to see structure. Under Speedos or tight fitting jockstraps it of course leaves an imprint.

The Sizing Emprinted in the Cage and Base Ring

When flying back from my US holiday this year, I put the Cobra to the travel test. Neither US nor British security noticed it. I both went through body scanners and metal detectors and it did not show up on any. When going through a body scanner the TSA guard checked my bulky double buckle belt from Mister B but let me go without any further inspection. A friend of mine is working at TSA. If you should face s strip search and are questioned about your chastity cage, he recommended calling it a medical device. But I doubt this piece of advice will not be needed often.

This discrete wearing is curse and gift as the same time. It takes a VERY trained eye to spot a cage below clothing, especially the smaller ones. There are some – and I have to restrain myself to not write a more strongly worded term – people in the community who find it funny to punch or kick subs into the nuts “because the obviously like it.” This is pretty dangerous when wearing the Cobra! The exposing of the balls and leverage of the ring and the pressure a the firm and sturdy cage can put on the testicles can lead to serious injuries, resulting in loosing your balls on the worst case! So if you are a dom, top or sadist don’t be an asshole and ask for consent before busting somebody’s balls.

While technically is it possible to controlled busting somebody’s balls while he is locked in the Cobra, it takes some practice and precise targeting. I would only recommend doing it with toys of the fist. Nut kicks are simply to random for this. Due to the open design, the dick can somewhat be played or tortured with. Wax comes off easily from the PA12 nylon and I have not noticed a tarnishing of the surface. If you are into e-stim, you can either fit conductive pads or 2mm loops inside the cage. In my experience the 4mm are too rigid. What I have done is fitting the Wide cage into smaller dicked boys and using the stainless steel electrodes from Oxballs. One really dexterous US friend of mine sounds his subs using silicone sounds while being locked in the cage. Long story short: The cage is sturdy and flexible enough to get creative.

The material does not resonate much and transfers vibrations fairly well onto the dick inside. For a caged milking, the dick should fill out the cage well. Otherwise the vibrations are not strong enough to stimulate the nerve endings enough to lead to an orgasm.

A Single Key Locked in the Double Key Sleeve

Keeping everything clean down there is easy when you are cut. The large space between the beams allow ample water and soap to keep your dick clean. To expedite the cleaning process, I recommend getting a shower head where you can choose different jet strength settings. Focused, slightly stronger jets makes washing the soap away easier. Uncut guys like me I would recommend unlocking at least every other day to clean below your foreskin. Since it is more compressed than flopping around uncut, piss cannot wash your glans, especially when messaging the last bit from under your foreskin. Because of this, residue piss also lingers a bit.

Taking the cage off for cleaning or adjustment can make self-unlocking necessary. If you don’t live together with your key holder or travel, I recommend getting the Key Sleeve. They are offered for single or double keys since each lock comes with two keys. I went for the double one. While a single key dangles inside the wide sleeve a bit, it is still locked securely. So with the double you have the option to lock one of both keys using numbered seals. The key sleeve comes with 10 seals. If you need more and unlock often due to the various reasons above I recommend buying them in lots of hundreds of eBay or Amazon.

Conclusion: Comfortable and secure chastity for long-term wear

Pro

Cons

Toy

Price

Large range of possible sizes for perfect fit

Lock is a bit difficult to insert

Kits (including cage, base ring & lock)

$170 – $240

Can be worn over extended periods of time

Very well made

Cage

$125 – $185

Sturdy

Base Ring

$45 – $65

Randomized Lock

$25

Nether Nudger

$10

Single Key Sleeve

$25 – $30

Double Key Sleeve

$30 – $35

Head Harness for AVON Gas Masks

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The VAST Head Harness for AVON Gas Masks in Red Superior Latex

Vendor: VAST

Happy Nikolaus Day! As promised last Sunday, here is a short bonus review of a an add-on for your AVON S10/ FM12 gas mask.

Construction

The head harness has the same six-point-shape of the original rubber (S10) or mesh (FM12) head harness of the AVON gas masks. The main difference is that you install roller buckles mounted on small latex straps using screw rivets into the clamp locks for adjusting the original head harness. The roller buckles come in plain or locking variety without a surcharge depending on your taste. Using these roller buckles you can adjust the main body of the head harness. The six straps attached to the back piece are quite long so they will fit even large heads. Since this head harness is one size fits all, on really small heads the access strap can flap around a bit. If you want to learn how to fit this head harness on your gas mask, I posted a little guide here (scroll down to the second half of the guide).

A Roller Buckle mounted onto an FM12’s Clamp Lock

Since VAST uses it’s own aramide reinforced Superior Latex for this head harness you cannot shorten the straps on your own. The good thing is because of the reinforcement you can really tighten or pull on it HARD. You will rather rip the locks off than then tear the rubber so don’t exert too much force.

Off the rack the harness comes in the “standard” fetish colors black, red and yellow. But I am sure you can ask for custom colors within the 4D Latex color scheme.

Playing with the Head Harness for AVON Gas Masks

For me this head harness is an innovative and breath-play suitable answer to the often asked question “Where can I a hood attached to my AVON gas mask?” A few years ago many rubber makers used to attach hoods to S10/ FM12 gas masks with a zipper at the back for a full rubber drone look. Currently I think only Blackstyle in Berlin and Regulation in London do this anymore if at all. Attaching a hood was often a not quite satisfactory thing because getting the fit right was difficult: Unlike a flexible rubber hood which wraps around the head, there is a big, stiff “front piece” which determined the fit of the rest of the hood. One result of this was that the actual gas mask did not create a full seal, making it unsuitable for breath play.

The Head Harness Attached to a Breathing System-ready FM12

With this head harness made out of latex you can create a hot looking, full rubber feeling yet still gas-tight configuration. For this put on your tight fitting latex hood as a base layer and then fetter the gas mask over it. This way your head is completely enveloped in rubber but the gas mask fits tight enough for proper breath play. Despite being aramide reinforced the rubber is soft so lying on the head harness is not uncomfortable. The rubber buckles are on the side so even the locks on the locking ones don’t press into your head when bound to the back.

The Back Piece with the Long Straps

The rubber base layer also keeps the head harness’ rubber from touching your skin and hair so you don’t need to clean it. Since oils and fats which are present on your skin and hair can destroy rubber over time, you need to clean latex after skin contact. Keep this in mind when using the head harness on bare skin.

Despite the wide range of adjustability I strongly recommend initially getting the right size gas mask size for your head! In order to work properly, the gas mask needs to create a tight seal around your face. Choosing a too large or too small gas mask will make this seal difficult, especially around the chin regardless how strong you tighten the straps.

Conclusion: Great feeling and highly functional alternative to attached rubber hood.

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Wide range of adjustability for breath play-ready gas-tight fit

VAST

99€

Full rubber feeling

Extremely sturdy

Lockable option available without surcharge

Breathing System – AVON Upgrade Kit

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Vendor: VAST

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

An Upgraded AVON FM12

Two months ago I showed you how to upgrade an AVON FM12 in order to make it ready to work with the VAST Breathing System. As some of you might have noticed, I used the S10 Upgrade Kit to upgrade an FM12. Back when the Breathing System was first introduced, it was the only upgrade kit available. As you can see, it works perfectly. But if you have an FM12, you can save you some trouble and 10€ if you buy the correct kit right away.

For the Breathing System to work properly, the gas mask needs to fit tightly on the face. This can be done using the standard straps of your gas mask. But for added fetish value, VAST offers a head harness made out of their Superior Latex. I will take a look at this add-on in a small bonus review coming December 6th, Saint Nicholas Day in Germany.

The Mounting Insert with the different Tunnel Inserts

Construction

The Upgrade Kit consists of two groups of elements: One group is used to turn the standard mono-directional breathing of a gas mask into closed circuit for breath play. For this you first need to replace the front unit where the used air is exhaled with a mounting insert and sealing cap. Then you replace the speaking valve with an exhalation valve (S10) or change the breathing direction of the right GM40 port with a screw-in valve (FM12). The other group are a flashlight classic and a flashlight GO inserts and three simple tunnels (internal diameter: 40mm, 45mm and 50mm) you can screw into the mounting insert for added fun. To help you upgrade your gas mask, the kit comes with a stainless steel tool, silicone grease and plastic care.

All elements are 3D printed. For the first batches they sometimes used a dark blue polymer because it was sturdier so some of my elements are this shade. They have now found a black one with equal properties so you should get all black toys with the typical silky-rough surface of a 3D printed object. This manufacturing process also explained the price: Especially the larger items take hours to print and require a lot of polymer. Due to the small numbers these toys will be made cheaper manufacturing methods like die casting is not an alternative. So like with many kink toys you have the pay a premium for premium quality toy.

The Exchanged Front Unit and Exhale Valve

Being 3D printed, all elements fit perfectly into each other and are air-tight. The air seal is supported by the silicone grease which also makes all parts move smoothly. Do not use oil based lubrication for these toys! Oil and grease will damage and destroy rubber and latex! Since the gas masks, hoses and rebreathing bags for breath play are made out of rubber, you will harm these elements permanently.

Like most elements of the Breathing System the Upgrade Kit comes in a nice wooden box with foam cut-outs to store the individual elements. Since some elements are permanently installed in the gas mask, about half the box is empty after the upgrade process. But it is still a nice touch and adds to the value of the kit, especially if you want to gift it.

Playing with an Upgraded AVON Gas Mask

In order to use the VAST Breathing System with a (gas) mask need a model with two separate GM40 ports and unidirectional airflow (in through one port, out through the other). There are some rubber makers who manufacture specific breath play (gas) masks with these properties but they are quite expensive. Most military or civilian gas mask like the old UDSSR, German, Danish or Israeli ones only have one port.

The Installed Fleshlight GO Holder

Because of this VAST chose to offer an upgrade kit for the AVON S10 and FM12 respirators, one of the most common gas masks in the fetish scene. The FM12 already has two ports, the S10 can easily be converted to fit a second one. With a little bit of skill and strength, even a clumsy person like me can upgrade one of those masks. For people not very familiar with these gas masks, the steps are not intuitive and sadly at least my very early version of the upgrade kit did not come with instructions. Because of this I made this little tutorial. Once you have understood what to do and have the tools at hand, it should take you 10-15 minutes to upgrade the masks. The provided upgrade tool is nice and helpful. Without it I am not sure if I could have upgraded my masks because the blade of a screwdriver is narrow and has a straight blade. Still, please be careful when handling the tool because it has pointy ends. During the upgrade process I managed to give myself some small, superficial wounds.

If you do not want to play with a gas mask or don’t want to upgrade your AVON respirator, VAST offers a Medical Face Mask with a Splitter and a Superior Latex Head Harness to attach it to the head. This is good because sadly due to age, the Brexit and gas masks being export and import restricted armaments in most countries, AVON gas masks have become hard to come by, especially outside the UK. So it is good to have an alternative.

A Classic Fleshlight Turning the Gimp Into a Fuck Pussy

If you need the other elements of the kit depends on your personal playing style. I very much enjoy the tunnel inserts. They allow to facefuck or force feed the sub without taking him out of his gas mask/ drone headspace. Theoretically you could fuck him through the hole of the mounting insert but the tunnels cover the sharp edges of the thread. Also, unscrewing the sealing cap and installing a tunnel gave some very gimpy subs an extra kick because they are being manipulated like an object or refitted like a machine. The internal diameter covers the most common range of dick diameters. Though is you are very well endowed, the max. internal diameter of 50mm might be a bit too tight. If you struggle with tightness or want to enjoy the smooth friction of the tunnel walls, you can use both water or silicone based lubes to make your dick slide through more easily. To clean the tunnels afterwards, simply handwash them with warm soap water. The polymer the parts are manufactured out of is quite sturdy but I would not trust it to be dishwater safe.

The next level of objectification are the Fleshlight (GO) holder. The Fleshlight maker offers a wide range of designs from greedy mouth over slutty ass to technical, almost drone-like designs. Each different front has a different texture inside. So you can choose into what object you want to turn your slave into. Naturally the Flashlights are too long so you need to shorten them using a sharp bread knife. The final length depends on if you want a seamless transition from Fleshlight to slave mouth.

In order to Leave Space for the Sub’s Head, the Fleshlight needs to be Shortened

Some testees were driven wild by the look and headspace of turning their gimp into a fuck/ ass/ hole face. Personally, this did nothing for me. So my advice is to give it a dry run fucking the gas mask without a gimp because shortening it accordingly.

Some testees rightfully criticized that the upgrade kit is only sold with the different inserts and addons. They are a nice to have but personally I rarely use them and could very well live without them. Being big 3D printed objects they are probably a considerable part of the final kit price. Or in other words, expensive pieces of gear some people will have lying around unused. Because of this I would love to see the real upgrade parts being offered separately from the inserts.

However, I love the concept of the interchangeable front cover! I have already so many new cover ideas: An ash tray, a drink tablet, toilet paper holder, a chew gag on the inside, a piss funnel. The creative minds at VAST will probably come up with even more perverted ideas. So I look forward to the future of the system and its expansion.

Conclusion: Necessary tools to make an AVON respirator Breathing System ready bundled with some not really necessary accessories.

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

All the necessary party to make AVON S10/FM12 ready for the breathing system

A bit difficult to install

VAST

S10 Kit 259€

FM12 Kit 249€

Interchangeable cover for added play options

Only sold in a bundle with different screw-in add-ons