Kategorie-Archiv: Reviews

Cobra Chastity Cage

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The Kink3D Cobra with the Key Sleeve and Nether Nudger

Vendor: Kink3D

Welcome back – earlier than expected. Ever since I posted the first pic of my Cobra on Insta and Twitter my inbox has been exploding! In the over 12 years I have been reviewing BDSM and kink toys I have never had so much interest in a toy, been asked particular questions or been urged to quickly publish a review before Locktober begins.

I am not a person to quickly reach a verdict about a toy, especially about one that has been designed for long-term wear (and one for reasons explained below I currently cannot wear for extended periods of time). But again I am humbled by the trust you put into my thoughts so this will be a first more or less in-depth look that I will probably follow-up in a couple of months with additional thought.

Construction

The Kink3D Cobra is a 3D printed cage made out PA12 nylon. This material is on the sturdier and also pricier end of the printing material market. Currently Kink3D offers cages and accessories made out of black, hot pink and aqua blue. I have gotten many questions when why they don’t offer red or lime green ones (talking about summer of the brat) which I have forwarded to Kink3D. What I can assume with my limited 3D printing knowledge that color pigments can effect the sturdiness of the material. So probably some R&D is necessary before new colors can be introduced.

The different Colors Kink3D offers: Black, Fusion Pink and Aqua Blue

The material strength is about 4mm in the middle of the beams making them thicker than the many other 3D printed genuine designs and let alone Cobra knock-offs from China. Due to the material strength the cage is slightly bulkier than delicate metal cage designs but actually lighter than most titanium cages. Stainless steel cages are weighing multiple times of the Cobra. But like with metal cages, when you compress the Cobra with your hands, there is no flex. Because of the heavy duty design I have never received a messages about a broken Cobra cage on my website. Due to the warmth, moisture and constant mechanical stress especially the points where beams meet are prone to breaking. This is especially the case with thinner built polymer cages or if cheaper material are used. I could create a coffee table book with pictures of broken cages I have been sent in the last three years when 3D printed chastity cages really took off.

Another indicator of the great build quality of the surface finish. There are no rough edges or pinpoints. The surface is covered in a semi-gloss smooth texture that is easy to clean, does not leave finger prints and feels warm to the touch.

The design is a traditional three piece design with the cage itself, the base ring and an internal lock. As a standard the locks are keyed alike. But for $25 you can order a randomized lock if you really want to feel secure and helpless. Though truth to be told since the lock is rather small it can be picked very easily by a moderately skilled lock pick. During Folsom Europe I have talked to a few lock picking kinksters regarding the Cobra’s internal lock. It turns out the challenge apparently is picking a lock parallel to your body literally locked in your crotch.

Putting on the Cobra

You start with putting the base ring on. My recommendation is going balls first and then squeeze the dick through. Then you put the cage over your shaft. If skin gets caught, use their Nether Nudger to adjust (see below). When joining the cage and base ring, note that the pins on the cage are not only for guiding but also for sturdily connecting both parts. If the pins are not completely sunken into the holes of the base ring, the lock will not fit! This was actually the biggest misunderstanding when I firstly put on the cage myself. I thought they should only align. But it they the cage does not meet the base ring, the lock cannot be pushed through the entire lock house.

The GUiding Pins need to be Pushed Completely into the Holes on the Base Ring. Otherwise the Lock cannot be pushed through

Speaking of the lock, that is a bit of a challenge to put in. It twists very easily to the shackle jams inside the lock house. Until now I have not found a good way to insert the lock. If I guide it holding the key, the shackle will flip; if I guide it on the lock, the heavy head of the key turns the lock involuntarily, jaming the shackle. But since you are probably not unlocking so often as I do (again, see below), this does not matter as much.

What surprised me in the review process how comfortable you can wear the Cobra even when having a bush. Of course, you need to make sure that hair is not caught between the guiding pins and the holes or inside the lock house. But other than that there is little chance of pinching and tugging.

Sizes & Sizing

At the moment Cobra offers 8 different sizes both in a standard and wide version. In order to determine your size, measure your flaccid dick from the base to the tip. When you are like me and have a meatier dick or want to wear a large piercing inside the cage, go for the wide version. Over the past decade I have tried many chastity cages and they were all too narrow to house my large foreskin covered glans, let alone with a 8x15x12mm piercing. But the Cobra R Wide is so spacious that I almost don’t notice the cage when being soft. Picking the right size is important: If the cage is too long, the glans sit in the shaft tube instead of the bulges head section. If the cage is too short, it can uncomfortably compress your dick, seriously reducing the long-term wear potential. You can find the cage size imprinted on the inside below the locking ring.

There are 8 sizes of base rings which again cover a really wide range of package sizes. Though ending at 60.3mm width I know at least a few big boys who need a larger one. But I am certain Kink3D can accommodate even thick members of the gay community. The ring size is imprinted in the nudge where the locking ring of the cage enters the lock house of the base ring.

The rings are slightly compressed at the tops and elongated at the sides for a rough egg shape. This shape is more anatomically correct and reduces pressure and leverage when moving.

To even further accommodate different anatomies every size is available in three versions: Standard is a simple round 8mm thick round piece of polymer. The XD has an oval intersection with a depth of 10.5mm. This way the gap between the cage base ring is even small. When you have very small, mobile or tight balls this might be the right one for you. If you are like me and have meatier balls or and testicle prosthesis, Kink3D offer also Curved rings which bend 5mm backwards following the anatomically shape of your taint. It reduces the pressure on the balls. By widening the gap from 11mm to 16mm smaller balls can of course more easily slip through the crack.

The Roughly Egg Shaped Base Ring

Choosing the right ring size and is a bit trickier. Your cockring is a good size reference. Though through the egg-shape the behavior of a base ring can be different. The task of the base ring is different than a cockring: The base ring should comfortably and securely keep the Cobra attached to your body without you being able to pull the dick out or a ball slipping through. A cockring should keep the blood inside your penis. Prolonging an erection while being locked in a chastity cage is actually an adverse effect. So especially when you are a grower start with a larger size. Furthermore, depending in your form of day, how full your balls get over time during chastity and the environment (warmer temperatures and higher humidity will make the ball sack looser) your testicles will looks, feel and behave differently. So you might need two or more rings for a perfect fit in different situations or seasons.

If you have the possibility to try out different base rings, I strongly recommend doing it! This is only a snapshot but gives you a good impression if the ring is too tight. The gold standard is trying the base ring with a fitting cage. Since the ring and the cage are connected, the cage exerts leverage on the base ring, pulling it forward and upward. This movement and pull can obstruct circulation to taint and balls. If you feel a burning or tingling sensation in your balls or on your taint, you should take off the cage and try a larger and/ or curved base ring. Constant pressure on your taint and balls can cause lasting irritations on your balls which can lead to serious injuries, especially when the seminal ducts or epididimys are effected.

This is actually the case with my testicle prosthesis: Over time the standard #4 ring put pressure on my cyborg ball and obstructing circulation. As an experienced kinkster who can differentiate between different kinds of pain and knowing that nothing down their could actually necrotize, I placed the pain sensation in the “annoying”, not the “dangerous” category and wore the cage until it got too annoying. Sometimes these were 12 hours, sometimes four hours. The pain was so annoying that I could not fall asleep. Because of this for the review I spent some days and some nights locked but never managed a full 24h. During Folsom Europe a friend pushed me as a virtual key holder to go locked and chaste as long a possible over a couple of days. Despite having the opportunity and indeed order to unlock when it became too uncomfortable I was a good boy and pushed myself until I got released in a scene on Sunday. This push irritate the nerves on my scrotum which are still recovering from the implantation surgery so much that I could not lock for a couple of days. Of course this a borderline case which luckily only effects very few men. But it illustrates well the importance of a correctly fitting base ring! And it also shows the paramount rule of chastity: Physical and mental health comes first!

So my next steps will probably getting a couple of new rings (#4 Curved, #5 and #5 Curved) and see how much I can push myself. You will read all about it in the update in a couple of months.

Long-term Wearing & CBT in the cage

Despite not going for really long streaks, I have had enough wearing experience to give your a glimpse into being locked 24/7 in a Cobra.

The most important aspect of a chastity cage is “How secure is it?” I would place the Cobra on the securer end of the security spectrum. If it is really well-fitted, it is almost impossible to pull the dick out. This is especially true when you are wearing a large piercing. It takes a bit of practice and twisting and turning the cage to get the piercing nicely rested in the head segment. Since you cannot twist the cage while being connected to the base ring, it is impossible to get a large piercing out of the head segment while being locked. For added safety you can of course use a PA lock when you are uncut.

Different Nudging Tools

How a Prince Albert piercing behaves inside the Cobra was actually one of the most often asked reader questions. To be frank, I was surprised how well and easy they both played together. When I got the cage, I was wearing an 8x19x14mm screw in ball, meaning the external diameter of the piercing was 35mm. That was a border line size for the R Wide! It was wearable but required some adjustment throughout the day. The piercing would twist, lock in place and put uncomfortable pressure on my foreskin. Since the piercing was so large it could barely move, I had to take the cage off in most instances. Since sizing down to 8x15x12mm I can easily adjust while wearing the cage using Kink3D Nether Nudger. This is a small 3D printed pin you can wear in your key chain. Especially for meatier and uncut guys, I consider this $10 accessory an essential – regardless if you have a piercing or not! It helps you push the skin in the right direction or adjust the piercing. When you are a grower or uncut, the skin folds sometimes get caught when getting hard or getting soft, leading to really uncomfortable pinching! The tip of the Nether Nudger helps to adjust and push the skin into place. Is is small and nimble enough to fit between the beams and long enough to reach even hard to get-to spots. While you can in theory use other pins, I find the Nether Nudger the most handy tool. In times of need when mine was not at hand, I have used tooth picks (don’t try that at home!), Montblanc pens (kind of ok, but too wide) or keys (depending on the key either too points and scratchy or too wide to get anywhere). The best substitute I have found at my desk was a small mechanical pencil from Liberty, a British friend gifted me some 15 years ago. If you want to keep your kink classy, go for it. But the Nether Nudger fits the aesthetics, material and design of the Cobra better.

When you Cobra is well-fitted, you do not notice it at all as long as your dick stays soft! This is due to the light weight. Heavier cages, especially ones made out of stainless steel develop momentum when moving around. The Cobra is a very calm cage. Cheaper and older cages we locked by a pad-lock that could clink against the cage or its sharp edges and corners press into your lower abdomen. Having an integrated lock this irritation does not occur with the Cobra. So it is perfect to wear all day in almost every kind of cloths.

Despite the R Wide being on the larger end of the size scale, it is not really noticeable as a chastity cage. Most people will just identify it as a bulge. During the review process I have worn the Cobra under jeans and gym cloths, chinos and thin suit cloths with Nasty Pig or Addicted briefs. The structure of the cage does not print through the cloths so people, especially non-kinkster, don’t notice you wearing a cage. Even under .6mm rubber it is just a bulge, under .45mm you start to see structure. Under Speedos or tight fitting jockstraps it of course leaves an imprint.

The Sizing Emprinted in the Cage and Base Ring

When flying back from my US holiday this year, I put the Cobra to the travel test. Neither US nor British security noticed it. I both went through body scanners and metal detectors and it did not show up on any. When going through a body scanner the TSA guard checked my bulky double buckle belt from Mister B but let me go without any further inspection. A friend of mine is working at TSA. If you should face s strip search and are questioned about your chastity cage, he recommended calling it a medical device. But I doubt this piece of advice will not be needed often.

This discrete wearing is curse and gift as the same time. It takes a VERY trained eye to spot a cage below clothing, especially the smaller ones. There are some – and I have to restrain myself to not write a more strongly worded term – people in the community who find it funny to punch or kick subs into the nuts “because the obviously like it.” This is pretty dangerous when wearing the Cobra! The exposing of the balls and leverage of the ring and the pressure a the firm and sturdy cage can put on the testicles can lead to serious injuries, resulting in loosing your balls on the worst case! So if you are a dom, top or sadist don’t be an asshole and ask for consent before busting somebody’s balls.

While technically is it possible to controlled busting somebody’s balls while he is locked in the Cobra, it takes some practice and precise targeting. I would only recommend doing it with toys of the fist. Nut kicks are simply to random for this. Due to the open design, the dick can somewhat be played or tortured with. Wax comes off easily from the PA12 nylon and I have not noticed a tarnishing of the surface. If you are into e-stim, you can either fit conductive pads or 2mm loops inside the cage. In my experience the 4mm are too rigid. What I have done is fitting the Wide cage into smaller dicked boys and using the stainless steel electrodes from Oxballs. One really dexterous US friend of mine sounds his subs using silicone sounds while being locked in the cage. Long story short: The cage is sturdy and flexible enough to get creative.

The material does not resonate much and transfers vibrations fairly well onto the dick inside. For a caged milking, the dick should fill out the cage well. Otherwise the vibrations are not strong enough to stimulate the nerve endings enough to lead to an orgasm.

A Single Key Locked in the Double Key Sleeve

Keeping everything clean down there is easy when you are cut. The large space between the beams allow ample water and soap to keep your dick clean. To expedite the cleaning process, I recommend getting a shower head where you can choose different jet strength settings. Focused, slightly stronger jets makes washing the soap away easier. Uncut guys like me I would recommend unlocking at least every other day to clean below your foreskin. Since it is more compressed than flopping around uncut, piss cannot wash your glans, especially when messaging the last bit from under your foreskin. Because of this, residue piss also lingers a bit.

Taking the cage off for cleaning or adjustment can make self-unlocking necessary. If you don’t live together with your key holder or travel, I recommend getting the Key Sleeve. They are offered for single or double keys since each lock comes with two keys. I went for the double one. While a single key dangles inside the wide sleeve a bit, it is still locked securely. So with the double you have the option to lock one of both keys using numbered seals. The key sleeve comes with 10 seals. If you need more and unlock often due to the various reasons above I recommend buying them in lots of hundreds of eBay or Amazon.

Conclusion: Comfortable and secure chastity for long-term wear

Pro

Cons

Toy

Price

Large range of possible sizes for perfect fit

Lock is a bit difficult to insert

Kits (including cage, base ring & lock)

$170 – $240

Can be worn over extended periods of time

Very well made

Cage

$125 – $185

Sturdy

Base Ring

$45 – $65

Randomized Lock

$25

Nether Nudger

$10

Single Key Sleeve

$25 – $30

Double Key Sleeve

$30 – $35

Head Harness for AVON Gas Masks

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The VAST Head Harness for AVON Gas Masks in Red Superior Latex

Vendor: VAST

Happy Nikolaus Day! As promised last Sunday, here is a short bonus review of a an add-on for your AVON S10/ FM12 gas mask.

Construction

The head harness has the same six-point-shape of the original rubber (S10) or mesh (FM12) head harness of the AVON gas masks. The main difference is that you install roller buckles mounted on small latex straps using screw rivets into the clamp locks for adjusting the original head harness. The roller buckles come in plain or locking variety without a surcharge depending on your taste. Using these roller buckles you can adjust the main body of the head harness. The six straps attached to the back piece are quite long so they will fit even large heads. Since this head harness is one size fits all, on really small heads the access strap can flap around a bit. If you want to learn how to fit this head harness on your gas mask, I posted a little guide here (scroll down to the second half of the guide).

A Roller Buckle mounted onto an FM12’s Clamp Lock

Since VAST uses it’s own aramide reinforced Superior Latex for this head harness you cannot shorten the straps on your own. The good thing is because of the reinforcement you can really tighten or pull on it HARD. You will rather rip the locks off than then tear the rubber so don’t exert too much force.

Off the rack the harness comes in the “standard” fetish colors black, red and yellow. But I am sure you can ask for custom colors within the 4D Latex color scheme.

Playing with the Head Harness for AVON Gas Masks

For me this head harness is an innovative and breath-play suitable answer to the often asked question “Where can I a hood attached to my AVON gas mask?” A few years ago many rubber makers used to attach hoods to S10/ FM12 gas masks with a zipper at the back for a full rubber drone look. Currently I think only Blackstyle in Berlin and Regulation in London do this anymore if at all. Attaching a hood was often a not quite satisfactory thing because getting the fit right was difficult: Unlike a flexible rubber hood which wraps around the head, there is a big, stiff “front piece” which determined the fit of the rest of the hood. One result of this was that the actual gas mask did not create a full seal, making it unsuitable for breath play.

The Head Harness Attached to a Breathing System-ready FM12

With this head harness made out of latex you can create a hot looking, full rubber feeling yet still gas-tight configuration. For this put on your tight fitting latex hood as a base layer and then fetter the gas mask over it. This way your head is completely enveloped in rubber but the gas mask fits tight enough for proper breath play. Despite being aramide reinforced the rubber is soft so lying on the head harness is not uncomfortable. The rubber buckles are on the side so even the locks on the locking ones don’t press into your head when bound to the back.

The Back Piece with the Long Straps

The rubber base layer also keeps the head harness’ rubber from touching your skin and hair so you don’t need to clean it. Since oils and fats which are present on your skin and hair can destroy rubber over time, you need to clean latex after skin contact. Keep this in mind when using the head harness on bare skin.

Despite the wide range of adjustability I strongly recommend initially getting the right size gas mask size for your head! In order to work properly, the gas mask needs to create a tight seal around your face. Choosing a too large or too small gas mask will make this seal difficult, especially around the chin regardless how strong you tighten the straps.

Conclusion: Great feeling and highly functional alternative to attached rubber hood.

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Wide range of adjustability for breath play-ready gas-tight fit

VAST

99€

Full rubber feeling

Extremely sturdy

Lockable option available without surcharge

Breathing System – AVON Upgrade Kit

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Vendor: VAST

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

An Upgraded AVON FM12

Two months ago I showed you how to upgrade an AVON FM12 in order to make it ready to work with the VAST Breathing System. As some of you might have noticed, I used the S10 Upgrade Kit to upgrade an FM12. Back when the Breathing System was first introduced, it was the only upgrade kit available. As you can see, it works perfectly. But if you have an FM12, you can save you some trouble and 10€ if you buy the correct kit right away.

For the Breathing System to work properly, the gas mask needs to fit tightly on the face. This can be done using the standard straps of your gas mask. But for added fetish value, VAST offers a head harness made out of their Superior Latex. I will take a look at this add-on in a small bonus review coming December 6th, Saint Nicholas Day in Germany.

The Mounting Insert with the different Tunnel Inserts

Construction

The Upgrade Kit consists of two groups of elements: One group is used to turn the standard mono-directional breathing of a gas mask into closed circuit for breath play. For this you first need to replace the front unit where the used air is exhaled with a mounting insert and sealing cap. Then you replace the speaking valve with an exhalation valve (S10) or change the breathing direction of the right GM40 port with a screw-in valve (FM12). The other group are a flashlight classic and a flashlight GO inserts and three simple tunnels (internal diameter: 40mm, 45mm and 50mm) you can screw into the mounting insert for added fun. To help you upgrade your gas mask, the kit comes with a stainless steel tool, silicone grease and plastic care.

All elements are 3D printed. For the first batches they sometimes used a dark blue polymer because it was sturdier so some of my elements are this shade. They have now found a black one with equal properties so you should get all black toys with the typical silky-rough surface of a 3D printed object. This manufacturing process also explained the price: Especially the larger items take hours to print and require a lot of polymer. Due to the small numbers these toys will be made cheaper manufacturing methods like die casting is not an alternative. So like with many kink toys you have the pay a premium for premium quality toy.

The Exchanged Front Unit and Exhale Valve

Being 3D printed, all elements fit perfectly into each other and are air-tight. The air seal is supported by the silicone grease which also makes all parts move smoothly. Do not use oil based lubrication for these toys! Oil and grease will damage and destroy rubber and latex! Since the gas masks, hoses and rebreathing bags for breath play are made out of rubber, you will harm these elements permanently.

Like most elements of the Breathing System the Upgrade Kit comes in a nice wooden box with foam cut-outs to store the individual elements. Since some elements are permanently installed in the gas mask, about half the box is empty after the upgrade process. But it is still a nice touch and adds to the value of the kit, especially if you want to gift it.

Playing with an Upgraded AVON Gas Mask

In order to use the VAST Breathing System with a (gas) mask need a model with two separate GM40 ports and unidirectional airflow (in through one port, out through the other). There are some rubber makers who manufacture specific breath play (gas) masks with these properties but they are quite expensive. Most military or civilian gas mask like the old UDSSR, German, Danish or Israeli ones only have one port.

The Installed Fleshlight GO Holder

Because of this VAST chose to offer an upgrade kit for the AVON S10 and FM12 respirators, one of the most common gas masks in the fetish scene. The FM12 already has two ports, the S10 can easily be converted to fit a second one. With a little bit of skill and strength, even a clumsy person like me can upgrade one of those masks. For people not very familiar with these gas masks, the steps are not intuitive and sadly at least my very early version of the upgrade kit did not come with instructions. Because of this I made this little tutorial. Once you have understood what to do and have the tools at hand, it should take you 10-15 minutes to upgrade the masks. The provided upgrade tool is nice and helpful. Without it I am not sure if I could have upgraded my masks because the blade of a screwdriver is narrow and has a straight blade. Still, please be careful when handling the tool because it has pointy ends. During the upgrade process I managed to give myself some small, superficial wounds.

If you do not want to play with a gas mask or don’t want to upgrade your AVON respirator, VAST offers a Medical Face Mask with a Splitter and a Superior Latex Head Harness to attach it to the head. This is good because sadly due to age, the Brexit and gas masks being export and import restricted armaments in most countries, AVON gas masks have become hard to come by, especially outside the UK. So it is good to have an alternative.

A Classic Fleshlight Turning the Gimp Into a Fuck Pussy

If you need the other elements of the kit depends on your personal playing style. I very much enjoy the tunnel inserts. They allow to facefuck or force feed the sub without taking him out of his gas mask/ drone headspace. Theoretically you could fuck him through the hole of the mounting insert but the tunnels cover the sharp edges of the thread. Also, unscrewing the sealing cap and installing a tunnel gave some very gimpy subs an extra kick because they are being manipulated like an object or refitted like a machine. The internal diameter covers the most common range of dick diameters. Though is you are very well endowed, the max. internal diameter of 50mm might be a bit too tight. If you struggle with tightness or want to enjoy the smooth friction of the tunnel walls, you can use both water or silicone based lubes to make your dick slide through more easily. To clean the tunnels afterwards, simply handwash them with warm soap water. The polymer the parts are manufactured out of is quite sturdy but I would not trust it to be dishwater safe.

The next level of objectification are the Fleshlight (GO) holder. The Fleshlight maker offers a wide range of designs from greedy mouth over slutty ass to technical, almost drone-like designs. Each different front has a different texture inside. So you can choose into what object you want to turn your slave into. Naturally the Flashlights are too long so you need to shorten them using a sharp bread knife. The final length depends on if you want a seamless transition from Fleshlight to slave mouth.

In order to Leave Space for the Sub’s Head, the Fleshlight needs to be Shortened

Some testees were driven wild by the look and headspace of turning their gimp into a fuck/ ass/ hole face. Personally, this did nothing for me. So my advice is to give it a dry run fucking the gas mask without a gimp because shortening it accordingly.

Some testees rightfully criticized that the upgrade kit is only sold with the different inserts and addons. They are a nice to have but personally I rarely use them and could very well live without them. Being big 3D printed objects they are probably a considerable part of the final kit price. Or in other words, expensive pieces of gear some people will have lying around unused. Because of this I would love to see the real upgrade parts being offered separately from the inserts.

However, I love the concept of the interchangeable front cover! I have already so many new cover ideas: An ash tray, a drink tablet, toilet paper holder, a chew gag on the inside, a piss funnel. The creative minds at VAST will probably come up with even more perverted ideas. So I look forward to the future of the system and its expansion.

Conclusion: Necessary tools to make an AVON respirator Breathing System ready bundled with some not really necessary accessories.

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

All the necessary party to make AVON S10/FM12 ready for the breathing system

A bit difficult to install

VAST

S10 Kit 259€

FM12 Kit 249€

Interchangeable cover for added play options

Only sold in a bundle with different screw-in add-ons

Savage (Sucks) Hood

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The Mr S Leather Savage Sucks Hood

Vendor: Mr S Leather (US) & Regulation (EU)

As the pre-Christmas season and shopping-wise Black Friday approaches, the number of questions about higher end pieces of bondage increases. Like the past few years I switch up a gear for the coming weeks to bring you the best in once-in-a-lifetime-purchase leather bondage gear reviews.

Construction

The Savage Hood are full-head encapsulating pieces of head gear. The are four panel constructions so with additional structuring seams around the neck. The nose is anatomically shaped and specious enough for larger noses. These things all lead to a great anatomically approximation and an overall great fit.

At the back a wide piece of leather covers the gap between to panels so the hood can fit many different head sizes. Left and right of this gap from almost the temple down to the bottom runs two lines of high quality cinch rings. Through these rings a piece of nylon rope is threaded. Both the rope and rings are heavy duty so when you pull the rope hard to fasten the hood tight around the head you do not need to fear of any element giving in.

The Cinch Rings and the Perforated Leather

The hood itself is made out of high quality garment leather which is perforated all over. It is a bit lighter than the leather on other Mr S hoods but this does not impact the overall high quality feel. Due to the many holes, the hood is well ventilated. So there is considerably less leather smell when you put on the hood.

All edges are piped with smooth leather so there are no rough or unfinished edges. This review is mainly based on the Savage Sucks Hood which has a chin cut out which of course is also lined with piping.

Playing with the Savage (Sucks) Hood

Being made out of perforated leather, the Savage hoods are designed to be breathable. At first I was skeptical how much ventilation actually comes through since the holes are very small and delicate. The hood was put to test at sunny pride parades, stuffy play parties and sweat inducing heavy play scenes. All testees reported that they were able to breath more easily and manage the heat build-up around the head better. This is also due to the leather being a bit thinner than for example on the Bag Hood. Even when fastened tight the leather still wraps lightly, almost airily around the head. Due to this the Savage hoods are not made for heavy bondage guys who crave the feeling of being tightly wrapped in leather.

The Piped Chin Opening and Anatomically Molded Nose

On the other hand, it makes the hood a good beginners hood or for people who struggle a bit with claustrophobia. Like the Bag Hood there is no tight bondage feeling of the leather grabbing and pressing against the skull. It is a caressing feeling of soft, high quality leather enveloping the sub’s head.

The perforation is spaced well enough to allow for quite proper field of view. Naturally everything is darker and especially at the outer edges, the view is obstructed. But overall the view is fine to operate and orientated independently and confidently, especially in well lit surroundings. Dark playrooms and clubs can be a bit of a challenge but most subs adjusted quickly. These properties makes the Savage hoods the perfect gear when your sub wants to remain anonymous in public settings. Conversely if you want to take take the sight from your sub, you will need to add a blindfold.

The Four Panel Design of the Hood with Structuring Seams

From a gear “fashion” point of view, I love the Savage hoods as a base-layer for other head gear. One of the hottest and most functional look is putting a muzzle or a Bishop Head Harness over the Savage hood. Especially with the Savage Sucks it creates a very smooth look as it covers the chain cut out. For a more artistic look the Fetters Strap Head Cage makes for an interesting contrast between the smooth surface of the perforated leather and texture the many straps add. Since the Strap Head Cage is locking, it also makes this leather prison inescapable. This can also be achieved when you lock the Mr S Heavy Duty Posture Collar to the neck. The Chin Plate gives the non-existing face a nice frame and accentuates the anonymity – or even more focuses the attention on the mouth with the Savage Sucks.

Speaking of the Savage Sucks chin cut out: During I put this hood onto many different body types and head shapes. The chin cut out almost always aligned perfectly giving the hood a very finished look. It is opened enough for the mouth to open completely to swallow even big dicks or getting deepthroated hard and deep.

Conclusion: Hot looking hood with cool ventilation

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Unique and hot look

… thus not the most intense bondage feeling

Mr S Leather

Savage $249.95

Savage Sucks $269.95

Good field of view when wearing it

Fastening strap being made out of nylon instead of leather

Regulation

Savage Sucks £289

Very airy and light…

Fetters Braided Cat o Nine

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The Fetters Braided Cat o Nine

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The name of this whip is telling: Each of the nine falls is braided out of four thin leather straps. At the end they are finished with a small knots so the ends form little four fall “floggers”. The straps are made out of soft, medium density, low weight cow hide. This in combination with a tight and neat braid give the falls a very high quality feel and appeal.

At a first glance the handle looks equally elaborate. A black and red braided leather pummel on top covers the attachment points of the falls to the handle. This pummel also houses a leather patch with the Fetters logo embossed into it which I find an interesting location at best (see below). A single strap of what feels like latigo leather lines the handle in one spiral. It is attached to the core with four seams. At the bottom there is yet another black and read leather pummel which houses a quite long latigo leather loop. Speaking of bottom: The pummel only covers the side of the core not the bottom giving it a bit of an unfinished feel.

All things considered, the grip is very economically designed with an aspiring premium leather appeal. Form followed function here while you can see where corners were but. But considering the price of the toy it is exceptional value for money. Yet compared to other whips and floggers with braided grip cover and loops, a pummel that is used to really attach the falls to the grip instead of just covering the attachments points, this Braided Cat o Nine is a bit more basic especially compared to the flogger from the same range. Considering the cost these are minor points because…

The Latigo Loop hold by a „Lateral“ Pollem and thus unfinished Bottom

Playing with the Braided Cat o Nine

… from a play point of view, it is even better value for money!

At first I was skeptical how well this toy would perform. With all the tails just laterally “attached to a stick” I wondered how well they would fly. Turns out, actually pretty great! Even at low intensities all tails fly precisely into the direction they are thrown without any breaking out. Targeting is easy making this toy surprisingly suitable for beginners. This property is supported by the low weight and still good balance point which is about at 4/5 of the handle length. You do not need much technique to rein in the momentum heavier floggers can develop while throwing.

Detail of the Braided Fall with the Finishing Knot

The overall great handling is a bit compromised by the Fetters logo tag. If the tag is in the throwing direction the tails break away. Since you usually do not turn the handle while whipping, simply make sure that the tag is facing you when picking up the whip so it should not be a problem. Annoyingly – at least at my whip – the tag was not a 100% aligned with the leather loop. Especially when the loop is not broken in, it wants to sit comfortably on your wrist. So you intuitively start to turn the handle until the loop sits comfortably – and the tag gets a bit in the way again. Over time you will learn to compensate the tag but especially at the beginning it is extremely irritating especially for beginners.

Which is a shame because overall, this toy is a surprisingly good beginner’s whip despite leaning towards sting due to the light weight. The combination of the great flying properties combined with the light and soft leather allow the top to caress and teas the bottom’s back lightly at low intensities. Because the falls are so light, I would not consider it a warm-up toy. The strokes are simply too light to increase the circulation sufficiently. As soon as you ad heft to your blows, the sting and intensity ramps up quickly. The sensation is of course focused on the knots which bite but the bottom will most likely also feel the scratch of the short tails behind the knots. These multitude of sensations is the greatest feat of this whip: Once you have learned to wield it properly, it offers many different sensations. Targeted precisely the end of the small floggers can just scratch the skin. Hitting exposed or raised areas of the back just right, almost only the knots hit. Throwing it like a flogger the is a bit of thuddy feeling along the impact area – until the tail ends sting like a lightning. So completely mastered the Fetters Braided Cat o Nine tails is truly a multitrick pony.

The Top Pummel with the Fetters Logo and the Leather Lined Handle

Speaking of great sensation range: Because the hanging loop is so long, it can be used as an impact of of its own. The pain is not sever but being made out of thin latigo leather, it bits a bit. Since the bottom expects a whip like impact sensation, teasing him with it it or inflicting agony when precisely targeting bruised areas adds to the wide range of possibilities with this whip.

Conclusion: Easy to throw whip with wide range of sensations and basic fitments.

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Wide range of possible sensations

Annoyingly placed logo patch which impairs the handling

Regulation

£68.41

Easy to handle and throw

Handle design cuts corners

Good value for money

Selection of McHurt Bats

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The McHurt Mini Teacher’s Bat, Mini Bat, Long Bat & Padded Long Bat

Vendor: McHurt

Before I start this review, a word on McHurt in general. Founded in 2007, their mission is to bring functionally high quality kink toys at affordable prices. Based in Berlin-Tempelhof, they were the first kink shop I have ever visited back in the summer of 2008. Some of the clamps that I have bought at that visit I still used and treasure today. They have an online shop but their in-store offering is WAY bigger. They have the a very large selection of different impact toys and I personally own at least fifty different ones from them.

Their core audience is more the straight scene which is reflected in their products. In 2022 I sent them drafts for two wooden impact toys because I could not find a maker to make them for me. They refused, saying my reviews are too critical because the gay scene has higher quality expectations than the straight one. So when I talk about their toys, keep this and their name in mind: From a functional point of view, they are great and will last you a lifetime. And the prices are incredible. But to achieve this they have to cut some small corners which I gladly allow to pass considering the value you get.

Construction

All the toys I am looking at today are so called bats, also called blades. They all have a short grip section which than tapers into a narrow and long – in case of the leather ones slightly cone-shaped – impact area and a rounded tip. All toys feature a hole at the end through which a leather loop is threaded to secure the toy to your wrist and for easy storage.

The leather bats are made out of two layers of very thick and stiff bridle leather. The leather and stitching come in some “kinky” colors like black and reds. Between them sits a piece of spring steel for added sturdiness. If you hit HARD or store the toy bent, the toy can deform a bit (this often happens to me when I cramp the toys in my toy bag). Once taken out simply bend it in shape again. Both leather pieces are glued together and sown around making these toys virtually indestructible. The edges are beveled, deburred and burnished for a nice and quality feel and look. The wrist loop is a little bit more basic with a piece of soft garment leather split in the middle to form a loop.

The two-layer construction of the Leather Bats. On the Right you can see a bit of deformation which you can easily bend back into shape

The small bat is 280mm long of which about 160mm can be used for impact, depending on your palm size. The maximum width is 33mm on the small one and 48mm on the long one which has an overall length of 420mm. At least 280mm of the length can be used for hitting.

The Long Bat comes in a padded version which sadly is not available on their website (if interested, simply write them a mail). On this toy one side is completely covered with medium-firm foam and lined with smooth garment leather.

Example of the manufacturing quality „shortcomings“ like split leather loop, the uneven stitching or not oiled hole in the wooden paddle for the leather loop. All these imperfections do not impair the play properties and are just esthetic!

The (Mini) Teacher’s Bat is made out of beautiful rosewood. It has been painstakingly sanded and oiled for a smooth finish with really brings out the grain and character of the wood – except the countersunk hole for the loop which edges are not oiled. It is great that the wood is oiled instead of lacquered like on other wooden toys I know. Lacquer has the tendencies to crack and splinter off over time leaving an ugly, rough surface. Speaking of smooth, the shape and edges has been rounded very well. It almost feel like a worry stone. Cross-section of this toy is almost oval. The wrist loop is made out of leather lace which I like a lot more than the split garment leather on the bats.

The Mini Teacher’s Bat is 265mm long of which roughly 160mm can be used. At the widest point it is 45mm wide. Sadly I don’t own the Teacher’s Bat – I cannot have (and store!) ALL the toys in the world, can I? – so the length of 460mm and width of approx 50mm comes form McHurt’s website. Considering the size similarity to the Long Bat, I just assume it can be wielded like the Long Bat.

Both wood and leather need about the same level of maintenance. After play, wipe them off with a wet cloth. If body fluids have been drawn, spray them with a sanitizer. Over time, this will dry out the material. The wood can be brought back to style using a paper towel with a bit of olive oil, for the leather use the leather care of your choice (personally I use Lexol but you can ask your boot black of choice)-

Playing with the Bats

Bats are some of the most universal impact toys out there. Their thin footprint makes them the perfect choice from large areas like the ass and thighs to more delicate ones like the soles of the feet for bastonado/ falaka or the palms of your sub’s hands. Especially on the latter body areas, be careful with the intensity as the small bones in the hands and feet break easily! With a bit of practice you can precisely target the blows to the very sensitive body area where the ass cheeks transition to the thighs or the inside of the thighs. The smaller versions of the toys are great for targeted, small area impact like glans spanking, ball smacking or nipple hitting.

The rounded shape and flowing lines of the Mini Teacher’s Bat

The relatively thin impact area naturally focuses the kinetic energy on a small body area. So an equally intense blow with a bat will feel more intense than with standard paddle. For an ever more focused blow, hit with the side of the bat! This is even more important considering the material these toys are made out of. The bridle leather is very dense and stiff and the wood, well… is wood. There is little give or softness in the material so all toys are stingy. Surprisingly the rounding of the wood makes it feel smoother so it is a bit less stingy than the wooden counterparts. An exception of course is that padded side of the Long Bat. Even intense, focused blows are thuddy making it a truly universal toy.

Due to the stiffness of the material, all bats are great for tapping. The intensity can be very gradually adjusted because there is almost no flex. The Mini Bat is also good for snapping. Despite the flexibility of the leather and the spring steel you can build up tension easily. This process will deform the toy over time but you can easily bend it back in shape. Due to its rounded shape, the Mini Teacher’s Bat is not perfect for snapping. The smooth shape simply makes it hard to keep it from slipping and this building tension.

Comparing the Padded and regular version of the Long Bat

Tapping can be used for warm-up but it is a sub-optimal process. It either takes very long or once you increase intensity, you already deal out quite the intensity beyond warm-up. Unless you have to Padded Long Bat. The padded side is equally perfect for warm-up and long, intense sessions with novices or more thud-loving bottoms. The only downside for warm-up is that due to the narrow blade, it takes a bit longer to cover a large body area like the ass or thighs compared to a classic paddle. But once you switch sides, you have the flash-like sting of the firm, dense bridle leather! If you only have ONE impact toy in your toy collection, the Padded Long Bat is actually the perfect choice offering – albeit focused – thud and sting. These properties makes it a good beginner’s to to start out with so it has become my go-to gift if I want to give a novice top something to start out with.

This is also due to the easy handling. You can easily target your blows and finely tune the intensity. One drawback is that due to the shape bats are always unbalanced. They are head-heavy and overtime can tire out your wrist. Especially since due to the stiffness and the narrowness there is a bit of “blowback”. On the plus side if you keep your rhythm the toy develops momentum, bit like a flogger, making the impact easier – especially on the long ones.

Conclusion: Easy to handle and versatile impact toys for a great price!

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Wide range of sensations and hitting modi, especially on the padded one

Unbalanced and giving “blowbacks”

Mini Bat

19,80€

Easy to handle

Long Bat

29,80€

Ceteris paribus good manufacturing quality

Padded Long Bat (not available online; write a mail)

39,80€

Exceptional value for money

Mini Teacher’s Bat

16,80€

Teacher’s Bat

24,50€

Alpha Whips Junior Snake Whip

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The Alpha Whip 2ft Junior Snake Whip in a Custom Adaptive Version

Vendor: Alpha Whips

Construction

This whip is very traditionally made: At the bottom is a lead-weighted pommel to balance the whip followed by a spring core. Being a Snake Whip there is no dedicated grip section with a second knot before the body like on a Bullwhip. At the end of the body a single paracord becomes the so call “fall” to which the cracker is attached by a loop. The cracker can be made out of Dacron or Dyneema. Dacron is a bit more stiffer and sharper and thus more stingy. It also takes longer to break in for cracking the whip. The upside is that the falls at the end do not tangle easily when cracking. My cracker is made out of Dyneema because it is softer and the chances of breaking the skin are next to nothing.

Lengthwise you can choose between 2ft and 5ft. The length is measure from the end of the pommel to where the fall begins. Choosing the right length is not an easy task. The most important thing to consider is your play space: The more confined the short the whip should be. Next is your play style, how you throw your whip. As a beginner I would recommend 3ft because it is a good compromise between handling, being able to crack it and throwing the whip far away from you. Despite controlling my whip fairly well, I still manage to unintentionally hit myself… If you want Hollywood style show throwing and cracking, you will need longer whips.

Nota bene: My whip is a custom Adaptive Snake Whip in 2ft length and 12 plaits. So where on a standard Snake Whip the fall is, I have a loop for attaching various attachments like a Dragon Quirt or a braided nylon fall onto which my cracker is attached. The plus side of an Adaptive whip is versatility. In theory you do not need carry several whips to a scene but can exchange the impact implement. In practice I rarely do it because it takes a bit of time. The downside is that doe to the nylon fall I basically ended up with a 3ft whip.

On a normal Snake Whip the Fall would begin here. At my Adaptive Whip there is the Loop for attaching different Implements

What makes whip from Alpha Whip special is the material it is made out of: Is completely made out of paracord.  In case of the Junior Whip it is made out of 550lb Nylon paracord which is perfect considering the length of the whip and thus force the material is subjected to. If you have experience which leather whips, you will have to adjust a bit. Out of the box, the body is less stiff and thus the whip is easier to throw right away. But unlike leather, the material will not break in over time. The braid will loosen just a little bit but not too much. So once you have learned to control your whip your throwing style does not need to adjust much to the changing whip properties. Another advantage is that the whip does not need maintenance beyond exchanging the cracker.

Speaking of the braid, it is very neat, tight and even which is an indicator for the quality and long term durability of the whip. The Junior Series has as 12 plait braid which means 12 cords are used to make the whip. Higher braid count means tighter braid and more detailed patterns. Since all whips are custom made, you can choose from a wide range of patterns and colors. My Snake Whip is a two-color Double Diamond in black and neon green both on the handle and the pommel.

Lead-Weighted Pommel with Hanging Loop

The pommel can have a different color than the handle and you can choose if you want a small loop for hanging the whip. I would highly recommend this for shorter whips because since the nylon does not break in as much as leather does, you cannot curl the whip like Indiana Jones does. Better store them hanging.

Finally a word on pricing: When I talk about flogger or whips at my impact play workshops or with interested people after they have seen me throw whips at Quälgeist for example, a common topic is where to get inexpensive whips for beginners. Being made out of paracord, Alpha Whips are already on the lower end of the price spectrum for good handmade whips. It takes hours to braid a whip like this. It takes a large stock of material you have to finance in order to offer this wide range of colors. And most importantly it takes years to learn how to make great whips. For that reason whips quality whips that will last you years of heavy play cannot come at a discount price. So like with anal toys where I always recommend saving for more expensive but safer to play with platinum silicone toys, better safe for another half year and get a proper whip instead of something cheap.

But don’t safe or wait too long for the whip you want. For most whip makers making whips is a hobby. If they had to make a living from it, whips would be even more expensive. So on a regular basis famous whip makers stop making their toys because they cannot justify the – personal – costs anymore.

Progression of the Braid from 12 plait to the Fall

Playing with the Junior Snake Whip

Each whip has a natural orientation in which it wants to go. In order to find this orientation hold the whip on the pommel and see into which direction it leans. You should always throw the whip on this plane because it will naturally lean towards it. Throwing it perpendicularly will make it harder to control because the whip will be pulled sideways while the momentum is propelling it forward.

The Fluff of a Dyneema Cracker

In order to learn how to control the whip, a proven technique is taking a large piece of cardboard and draw the outlines of a human torso onto it. Put this on the wall and throw your whip at it aiming at specific areas. Caution: Make sure there is nothing fragile about a meter left and right of the target and behind you. My poor plants speak from experience…

There are two ways to throw this whip: The easier one is “lashing”. You hold the pommel in your dominant hand and hold the fall in the other. Now extend your dominant arm until it is slightly bend and pull the other arm backwards. How far you pull backwards and thus put load the whip with tension will determine the impact intensity. If you want to add even more intensity, press your thump against the grip. This will add a surprising amount of kinetic energy. With lashing you can fairly easy and quickly develop a good aim. Since you always have to “charge” your whip again, lashing it not made for rapid strokes.

The other one is called “rolling” because you roll the whip forward. It is the style seen in movies and most porn. For this style, you wind the whip up by putting it behind your back and propel it forward using your shoulder, upper and lower arm. In this style the whip hits the bottom diagonally from above. Since you use all the muscles in your arm and your shoulder to propel the whip forward (and for advanced players even in your torso when you add a turning it towards the bottom), you can gather considerably more kinetic energy and thus increase the pain. Also you can develop a pendulum movement for rapid strokes. But the whip is much more harder to control and proper aim takes a lot of experience. Especially since you need to adjust to the height of every bottom.

The Loop on top of the Fall for Attaching the Cracker

Regardless of the throwing technique, when pulling the whip back for the next stroke, be careful not to hit yourself! On numerous occasions I gave myself a more or less thorough arm and back whipping in a scene…

If you are into extreme, long whipping, especially if you want to break the skin, I highly recommend exchanging the crackers between partners. Otherwise pathogens get transferred from one player to another. Such whipping bottoms usually have their own crackers they give the top before the scene.

Finally, a word on cracking. Cracking is when you throw the whip and there is a cracking sound. This sound is emitted when the cracker breaks the sound barrier. Unlike leather whips, even the short Snake Whip can be made cracking with a bit of practice. I found it easier to crack the whip with lashing than rolling because the kinetic energy is focused in one burst instead of building over time. Since the whip apexes in the middle of the air instead on a bottom, be extra careful of your surroundings. It makes the whip a bit more difficult to control.

Conclusion: Really well-made single tail for beginners and experienced whippers
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Does not breaking in I could not really find any weak spots during the test. If you are in the market for a single tail and except it not being made out of the traditional material leather there is no reason not to buy one of these Alpha Whips Starting at 105€
Easy to crack
Good value for money
No maintenance needed
Made in Germany, so for EU readers no high shipping costs and import duties like on US whips

Oxballs Clone Duo

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The Oxballs Clone MAX Ball Stretcher

Vendor: Oxballs

It has been over four years that I have last reviewed an Oxballs ball stretcher. Despite having reviewed so many over the past eleven years, I get many reader questions regarding them. So I decided to take a look an exotic model today which are designed to stretch your balls lower.

Construction

The Clone Duo is a set of two funnel-shaped ball stretchers; one black, one blue. It has a very short nuzzle on top of a big cone. It comes in two sizes: The Clone and the Clone Duo MAX which is the basis for this review.

The two stretchers have the same design and dimensions standing 41.5mm tall (37.5mm at the standard version). On top they have a diameter of 47mm and 68mm at the bottom. The top aperture has a diameter of 31mm and the bottom of 42mm. This means that the wall strength increases. This means that there is a spring force working towards the bottom.

The exterior is textured with texts and graphics: Around the nozzle runs a band of the product and brand name, the cone features bold arrows pointing down – just in case you were wondering in which direction the force works. On the MAX there is “HUGE” written between the arrows so you don’t confuse them with the standard ones.

The Tow Colors of the Clone Duo MAX

They are made out of platinum silicone making them very skin-friendly. The super-smooth surface reduces the chance of skin and to some extend hair getting caught. While the material is stretchty, it is more rigid and more importantly more shape stable than (Flex-)TPR even when exposed to kinetic energy and warmth over extended period of time (like in being worn 24/X). If you prefer to lube up your stretcher before putting them on, I recommend sticking to water- or oil-based lubes. Oxballs claims it is fine to use silicone lube but the silicone oil inside the lube will over time disintegrate the surface making it sticky. Speaking of sticky: Silicone itself is always a bit sticky so regardless how thoroughly you clean them, there will always be flint and dust on them.

 

Different materials use different plasticizers which can damage each other! Because of that it is important to store your ball stretchers apart without touching each other like in a shape sorter. Before putting them away, you should clean them, especially when lube has been used. Simply soak them in hot dish soap water, rinse them off, sanitize and let them dry before storing them away.

 

The Large Diameter Difference of the Top and Bottom Aperture

Playing with the Clone Duo

 

More than most other ball stretchers the Clone Duo is designed to stretch and extend your balls over time, turning them into low hangers. Unlike with stacking several rings above each other the spring force constantly and softly pushes your balls down. The lasting stretch might not come as quickly as with other methods (esp. like wearing a metal ball stretcher 24/x) but it is a gentle stretch that will affect your everyday life not too much – if you choose the right size. If you can already comfortably wear a 35mm ball stretcher, go for the MAX, otherwise start with the regular one.

As written above, the stretch force works in the direction of the arrow. So the lowest stretch is when you put the top aperture towards your body and the bottom one towards your balls. The next step up is turning it around and let the bottom press against your groin. From there you have to work quite a bit with stacking stretch rings till the next step which is stacking two Clones above each other. If you want to go harder and more, the next escalation is letting the bottom holes face each other and the final step is to the top holes meet in the middle. Though in order to achieve that you really need (meaty) low-hangers.

Meaty is a key word: The more intensely you stretch, the more likely it is especially for small balls to stay in place when putting the stretcher on or even worse slip through. Again, with added small ring you can prevent this. But with all training, who said it is going to be easy.

One of the more Intense Stacking Options

If you already have somewhat low hangers and enjoy a good swing, the Clone is worth a try. Weighing 68g each and stretching your balls good, there is certainly a good tug and swing. Of course it is far from a metal ball stretcher but my testees enjoyed it because you can wear the Clone longer than a metal ball stretcher at same stretch level.

When you plan on wearing the stretcher constantly for best stretching result, consider the size. The spring force causing cone-shape makes the Clone way bulkier than other ball stretchers. You have a very noticeable – and visible – silicone lump between your legs. Most testees got used to the feeling and did not describe it as more annoying than other stretchers. But there is still a cone of shame around your balls others can see (If you want to put a cone of shame around your entire junk, Oxballs got your covered too).

Conclusion: Tool for stretching your balls LOW for intermediate and experienced stretchers.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Soft and gradual stretch over time When using two difficult to put on. Clone Duo $66.00
Clone Duo MAX $99.00
Good stretch and weight for swinging balls Very bulky for 24/X wearing

Largo & Horse Dildo

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Toy Properties

Form: Realistic & Animal Dildo
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors:
Natural Tan, Deep Brown and Black
Custom colors possible
Firmness: Soft to Medium, custom degrees possible
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Mr Hankey’s Toys

Construction

All Mr Hankey’s anal toys are made out of platinum silicone. This material is 100% body safe, highly resistant towards acid and heat and with the super-smooth surface leave little possibilities for bacteria to linger and are easy to clean. I usually put my toys in hot water with dish soap and sanitize them afterwards for good measure. This is a quick and easy way to get the toys clean and sterile again between partners at a play party. But you can also throw them in the dishwasher or autoclave them. In order to keep the surface in this condition, never use silicone based or hybrid lube with silicone toys because they will disintegrate the surface. Water and oil based lube are safe to be used with silicone toys. Being easy to clean is a great feat because silicone is slightly sticky. It thus attracts dust and flint extremely easily.

The Mr Hankey’s Toys Large & Horse Dildo

Mr Hankey’s Toys chose this material not only because it is easy to handle from a production point of view but also because it easily takes on coloration. Until two years ago, MHT was famous for the dual-coloring with a solid color core and a contrast color shell. This pours very extremely complex and sadly have been discontinued. They have been replaced with split colors (on the Horse Dildo) or marbles (on Largo) which are also interesting and beautiful.

The toys from Mr Hankey’s Toys come in two firmness degrees. The firmer is called “Medium” which is about the firmness of a fully hard penis. This makes texture more intense but also reduces the flexibility of the shaft. While I usually enjoy firmer toys, due to the nature of Largo and the Horse Dildo, I would not recommend getting either one in Medium but go for the softer “75%” firmness. Even when they mare the toys a little bit harder to control because they flop around more. Mr Hankey’s offer custom firmnesses for $15.95 which I have never tried. I would only recommend this if you have a large collection of anal toys already and can imagine how a toy will feel in a certain firmness! Because the larger the toy, the firmer it will feel! So be careful not to over- or in rare cases undershoot.

The Vac-U-Lock along with the Dust Problem every Siliconme Toy has

An add on I always recommend is the Vac-U-Lock hole for just $4.95. The system was originally designed to attach the toy to fuck machines but both of these toys are too big and too heavy to be attached to fuck machines. But in the past years a number of nifty accessories came out for this kind of system: Handles, Strap-On harnesses, suction cups and double-dildo connectors. Because of this I highly recommend adding this inexpensive feature to your toy. There are just too many useful scenarios along the way to go cheap on this one.

The Texture on Largo’s Shaft

Playing with the Largo & Horse Dildo

Both toys have very telling names. Largo is large. Very large! With almost 410mm of insertable length and a diameter of 70mm it is made for serious depth player.

The glans has a nice smooth dome shape. It could have taper a little bit more and get more cone-shaped to open up the two sphincters more easily and gradually. The glans rim is slightly slated and there is a considerable drop of about 6mm which leads to a nice popping in sensation – especially beyond the second sphincter.

The shaft is heavily textured with many thick and high-rising veins. Below the glans there is a small cluster of ridges of cut foreskin. There is a slight, almost unnoticeable ventral groove. Due to the texture, riding Largo is a very stimulating experience. There is not increase of diameter so once the hole has relaxed and got accustomed to the size, you can focus on the texture which will massage both sphincters. Especially when going deep, the sensitive colon walls are subjected to an interesting and intense massage. This kind of sensation are rarely found because most thick depth toys are just smooth or have a big – flared – glans (see below) on which the sensations are focused so Largo offers something truly unique. Every kind of stimulation causes tensing up so riding Largo deeply HARD can be a challenge due to the colon trying to push him out instead of letting him in deeper. For really experienced players who use excessive amounts of lube and play with a partner, turning Largo is very hot experience. But be very careful when doing it! Parts of the toys can stick to the colon wall when drying up so turning him can cause heavy injuries!

Largo’s Tapering Glans

As you see and as I wrote in the beginning: Largo is not a toy for novices who just start out with depth play but for experienced players. If you can take Largo, you can take a medium fist DEEP because there is little size difference. Theoretically you can order Largo in Medium firmness but I would strongly advise against! Through the large diameter even the 75% firmness is borderline firm for going around the bends and kinks of the colon. Only one really skilled and trained testee could take my 75% firm Largo completely. Large is one of the few toys where getting a custom firmness – or rather softness – can increase the fun you have with the toy. Though keep in mind: The softer the toy, the harder to handle.

Some might just be intrigued by Largo’s texture, don’t care if they can take him completely and thus order him in Medium to make the texture more noticeable. Coincidentally a friend of a friend has Largo in Medium. It is a club! He is very hard to ride because it stands so tall and too heavy for fucking machines. If you like texture I would rather recommend the Lampwick in Medium instead of Largo. An important thing to consider is that both in Medium and 75% Firmness Largo will not stand up straight but always tips over making him a big hard to ride.

The Horse Dildi’s Blunt Glans

I rarely have ever encountered a so bluntly named toy as the Horse Dildo. It is just what is says: An anatomically more or less correct horse dick – at least according to veterinarian friend of mine.

Unlike on their Centaur toy, the glans is quite flat and only lightly domed. The glans rim is textured with bumps around. These bumps are almost the only added girth to the shaft so this toy is unflared.

Like Largo the shaft is column-like straight – except the horse-characteristically medial ring 2/3 down the shaft. This ring is only a slight ridge around the shaft so more of a depth indicator than a stimulating feature. The entire shaft is textured with very thin lateral ridges giving the toy a nice but not too intense texture.

The Horse’s Balls Float About 10mm Above the Ground

The base features two massive, anatomically correct balls. They give the top a good grip to hold onto and increase the immersion. But their lowest point is about the bottom of the shaft’s base. This makes the toy tip over easily because the big glans makes it already head-heavy. The Horse Dildo would have been easier to ride and control if the balls would have added to the base’s footprint.

Like Largo the Horse Dildo is not for novices. Event the smallest size aptly called “large” has a glans diameter of 72mm. Getting your anus to open up to an almost flat 72mm diameter disk is something that takes a lot of training. Taking the toy deep due to the long insertable length is an art. Once inside the shallow texture gently massages the anus instead of heavily stimulating it. So my verdict it, is you ever wanted to take a dildo that comes close to nature’s original both shape- and size-wise, the Horse Dildo is one of the smaller entries into this realm. But still a challenging one.

The Small Size Difference between the Glans and Column Shaft

Again I would not recommend getting this toy in Medium firmness. You need the softness of 75% for the sphincter to open up. Everything else is almost madness.

Where to buy?

Mr Hankey’s sells their toys directly through their website. This is the best way to get them when you want to customize them even further. They also run promotions on a regular basis (if you register for their newsletter they have an individual birthday promotion for example) so check their page regular to snatch a bargain. Being one size only Largo costs $189.95 plus customization while the Horse Dildo starts at $159.95. Custom solid colors costs $29.95, a marble $39.95, custom firmness $15.95.

BaseMyBat

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Form: Baseball bat
Material: Platinum Silicone
Colors: 20 colors in all patterns
Firmness: Very Soft to very firm
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Organotoy

Just in case you are wondering why you find this review in the Impact Toy category: Being modeled after a baseball bat, you can of course use it to hit people. I talk about the BaseMyBat as an impact toy in the second part of the play section.

Construction

In the whole world European anal toys Organotoy has a very special place: Founded 15 years ago it was the first European toy maker to only use platinum silicone. Today they are one of the few companies only using ISO 10993-10 compliant raw materials and are compliant with the ISO “sex toy” standard 3533 2021. This shows their dedication to product safety and quality.

The Organotoy BaseMyBat

Of course their platinum silicone has all the properties anal players love: Hypoallergenic and 100% body-safe, easy to clean with warm dish-soap water, easy to sanitize afterwards using spray-on sanitizer or even autoclaving and sliding in easily due to the super-smooth surface. Just please do not use silicone lube for this toy. The silicone oil inside the lube will over time attack the silicone and make the surface sticky.

As standard Organotoy “only” offers 20 colors. But they will mix any others that are not part of the standard range. If you want make the toy even more yours a former Hollywood FX artists works there and does custom airbrushes according to your design (like the biohazard sign on the first ever Sit-Plug  which I gifted to my BF) or for delicate colorings (my Rainbow Ripley was done this way). So in theory you could get your favorite baseball team’s logo in your toy and fuck yourself with it.

Another great customization feature is that you can virtually order any firmness between Shore 00-20 (almost too soft to play) up to feels-like-metal Shore A30. They have the common firmnesses in stock but will mix others for you. So if you like it extremely soft or need it extremely hard (literally) – especially if you want to use the bat for impact play – Organotoy is one of the few manufacturers who makes toys in the extreme ends of the Shore scale.

The BaseMyBall has the shape of a baseball bat used for sports. It is 490mm long; 250mm barrel and 230mm grip. The barrel has a diameter of 53mm. This means this is not a full size baseball bat. It is closer to a one-hand training bat than a full size Louisville Slugger and considerably  thinner…

The Dull Tip of the BaseMyBat

Playing with BaseMyBall

… which is good for depth play. This toy is made for everybody who has the fantasy of being fucked with a baseball bat yet feared the unforgivingness of aluminum or even wood (splinters in the nether regions anyone?). Due to the grip, the BaseMyBall is quite easy to handle even with somewhat lubey fingers. In softer firmnesses this even applies when you want to stuff your ass with it. If you go for a higher firmness degree (Shore A10 and up) there is too much leverage.

The toy itself is a bit anti-climactic. It is just a smooth barrel. So you get the feeling of is sliding in an out but not more. I could see great potential for this toy if Organotoy turned it into a club or mace with bumps and ridges and grooves added to the barrel and shortened the grip a little bit.

The Handle with a little Pummel for better Grip

Taking the toy requires pre-stretching because the tip is flat with a little domed rim. There is nothing to nicely make open up. This especially accounts for your second hole! The bat is not for novices! But if you have a bit if experience, it is a nice to toy to “straighten” the colon out.

Being modeled after a baseball bat, there is of course the question: How does it perform as an impact toy? Well, that depends.

For spanking it does not really work because of the material. Silicone is simply too soft and the barrel to heavy. Mine was made in Shore A20 and still the barrel flops around then trying swing the top at the impact area. When you grab is right below the barrel and swing it like a club, the grip bounces and swings causing unintended impacts. They are not intense but irritating for the sub because they are chaotic. Regardless how controlled and rhythmic you hit him with the barrel the grip flops around unevenly. Maybe a split firmness of A30 until the beginning of the barrel and an A10 or A20 for barrel could fix that.

Illustration just how much even Shore A20 bends

Baseball bats are also often used for CBT. They are just the perfect graphic ball busting tool for rough play. But again hitting somebody between the legs does not work due to the material. For what the BaseMyBall is great for is strapping your sub to the floor, legs apart and swing the barrel against his nuts. Due to the softness the bat swings easily with a lot of momentum bruising the balls nicely.

Where to buy?

Organotoy recently started a limited wholesale for their toys though I am not sure if that includes the BaseMyBalls. Especially if you want to customize the colors or want it airbrushed, ordering directly from Organotoy is the way to go. The BaseMyBall costs 99.96€ plus customization add-ons.