Kategorie-Archiv: Reviews

Fetters Leather Studded Paddle

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The Fetters Leather Studded Paddle

Vendor: Regulation

Construction
Like last week, this paddle has a very traditional design. The head with its slightly rounded corners is 20cm long and tapes almost shovel like from 10cm above the handle to 10.8cm at the top. At the bottom it flows into a 14cm long handle which taper slightly for a secure grip. Two layers of 4mm thick bridle leather with a metal spring in the middle are the basis of this paddle. They are glued and sown together for a compact and solid feel. The edges are deburred and burnished so there is now unintentional chafing.

Through the top layer six rows of three 4.5mm tall pointy, yet dull Ø7mm studs each are screwed. Below the rivets a third, at 3.5mm a bit thinner layer of bridle leather is attached to the top of the handle. Where it ends at the head five (!) rivets support the glue in keeping this layer in place. This monopiece construction with the reinforced handle gives the paddle a rigidity and thus most kinetic energy is transferred onto the sub.

The Embossed Fetters Logo with the Raising Studs

At the bottom a 18cm long leather string loop helps the securing the paddle to the wrist even in heavy scenes. And once you are done with play, it can be easily stored away.

Play with the Leather Studded Paddle

This review was a multiple reader request. I actually did not know about this toy. But since this paddle does not break the bank, I simply bought it, because I was curious how the studs would feel.

The Studded Paddle’s Smooth Side

The toys has a bit weird ergonomics. There are several categories of toys: Small and nimble for targeting small areas, long and narrow for hitting both cheeks at ones, about-palm-size for single cheek targeting or over the knee. The Leather Studded Paddle sits in between the latter two categories which require a bit adjusted hitting techniques. When hitting a single cheek target with the upper third of the head (the central stud of the second row from the top is a good focal point), not the center. Otherwise, the edge will hit the apex of the other cheek which usually has denser fat tissue, does not compress as well and thus diverts the blow. In actual play it is not as dramatic as it might sound. But when I dealt my first blows, I was a bit puzzled that they did not land where I wanted them to and it took a few minutes to adjust.

The Triple Layer Handle Design

Once you have gotten over this, you are going to hit HARD! Due to being so stiff and rigid, it is a very stingy paddle. With very light tapping, you can use the smooth side for warm-up. But as soon as you increase the intensity, it starts to sting quite severely quite firmly. Again, this is something you need to get use to. Since it is more rigid and has less flex than comparable paddles, lower levels of intensity will have a noticeable effect.

This is even more with the studded side. The metal peaks focus the impact energy in these 18 points until the full paddle hits. The stiff leather in combination with the metal spring already has little give, the metal is unforgiving. Then using the paddle on other, less well padded areas (for example the hands), keep that in mind. Hitting joints or bones with the studs can lead to serious injuries.

While the smooth side already colors quickly, the metal studs make the textured side a bruised.

The studs are each about 2cm apart from each others. So each and every one can be felt separately. For sensation play, you can drag them over the subs body. They are “rounded” enough to offer a nice bruised and tender tissue massage on already impacted body areas.

The Dull yet Spikey Studs

Sadly, on design choice makes the studs a little bit hard to use. The studs are only a millimeter taller than the additional leather layer to reinforce the handle. That makes using the full studded impact area difficult. During sensation play, you have to be careful not to unintentionally push the unburnished and thus slightly edge of the handle reinforcement against the skin. This is a minor point, especially considering that the toy was not intentionally designed for sensation play. But still, I would appreciate of the reinforcement was on the smooth side.

Due to the weight of the metal spikes, the paddle is a bit unbalanced. The pivot point is below the bottom row of studs. It is not terribly bad but definitively noticeable. You should now swing this paddle from the wrist or tab over extended periods of time.

Conclusion: Intense, well-made paddle with some ergonomic quirks

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Heavy for intense sensations even with low impact energy

Weird ergonomics

Regulation

£38.99

Loop for securing and storing

A bit unbalanced

Very wellmade

Fetters The Claw

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Fetters the Claw CBT Paddle from Regulation

Vendor: Regulation

Over the past year, I have accumulated quite a few new impact toys, unintentionally almost all from Regulation. Since I haven’t done an impact special in quite a while, let’s kick off the new year with looking at tools helping you „reward“ your sub when he has been a bad boy.

Construction

The Claw has a traditional paddle design with a 71mm round head that flows into a 140mm long handle. It is made out of two layers of thick bridle leather with a metal spring in the middle for added stability for years to come. The two layers are sown and glued together; the edges are beveled, deburred and burnished. This gives the paddle a quality feel and it lies solidly in the hand. A nice touch is the embossed Fetters logo below the spiked pad.

While one side of the head is just the smooth bridle leather, on the other side there is a 59mm round firm foam pad covered in red leather. On top of the pad there is a circle of eight really pointy metal cones with an additional one in the center, giving the toy its name.

The Smooth Side of the Paddle Stinges quite a Bit

At the bottom of the shaft a lever-operated carabiner is riveted onto it. The eyelet diameter of 10mm is large enough to attach the paddle to a belt loop which is a great additional feature compared to just a D-ring for playroom storage. Since due to the ergonomics of this paddle you will not deal big blows with the Claw (see below), I do not really miss a loop for the wrist.

Play with The Claw

This section is going to be divided in two parts. First I will talk about the smooth leather side, then about the spiked one because this is truly a two-sided toy.

Regulation markets this toy as a ball busting paddle. Because of this the head is small and the handle just as long as it needs to comfortably hold the toy. This way it is nimble and can easily target small body areas. It is narrow enough to smack the balls between thighs as long as there is enough space for the balls to hang freely (for example on a bondage chair). But it is equally good for falaka or hitting that sensitive spot where the thighs meet the buttocks. Having such a relatively small impact area, it focuses the kinetic energy and this impact force on a small area, making the Claw a bit of a bruiser. Having a shorts handle, it is a bit difficult to gather momentum and thus deal really heavy blows on the ass and thigh. Since swats on the balls are generally supposed to be bit softer and more controlled, this is not really a negative thing.

The Carabiner is for Easy Attaching and Storing but Developes Momentum when Hitting

The spring inside the paddle makes it just a little bit bounce and thus perfect for tapping and snapping. When tapping the carabiner swings and develops momentum. My recommendation is holding the shaft on the rivet between thumb, index and middle finger while restraining the carabiner inside the palm. Being so small, the paddle is also a bit head-heavy and unbalanced. But since it is not made for heavy and continuous hitting, it is unlikely that it will make the wrist tired.

Since the bridle leather is smooth, firm and has a lacquered surface, the impact sensation is stingy. Being so light, it is not really made for warm-up. It either stings or is almost unnoticeable.

So much for the smooth side. Now to the spikes.

These Spikes give The Claw its Name

Let me reiterate: The spikes are pointy and sharp! They are not like on other paddles where the spikes are dulled or cone-shaped rivets. You can cause serious injuries with them, especially on the balls. The scrotum skin is thin and sensitive. Light tapping with this toy is ok. Any stronger force will lead to breaking the skin and cause bleeding. This effect is even intensified when moving the toy in a scratching movement. It is actually a good thing that due to the ergonomics you cannot deal hard blows. This could lead to flesh wounds! The padded pad gives the spikes a bit of bounce but it does not really softens the blows. It is a nice design feature and makes the paddle a little bit more intimidating looking but I do not see the functional use for it since it does not dull the blows. So, what are the spikes good for? I used them for a combination of sensation play and mind fuck. Drag them over the bottom’s skin, varying the pressure from a light scratch to digging in deeply, telling him that soon they will dig into his body, propelled by full force, will most likely inflict terror. Then start light tapping, scratch a bit again, play with his fear and anticipation. Due to being so sharp, do not used gear to soften them. They will tear rubber, scratch leather and rip lycra or cotton.

Detail of the Stichting and Finished Edges

One unexpected use case is (AB)DL play: If you put on several layers of diapers you need to perforate the outside plastic layer of the inside diaper to allow the liquid to get to the next layer. You need to do this without destroying containment of the absorbent stuffing so randomly ripping with a knife does not work. The Claw is perfect for this! The spikes puncture, rip and tear the plastic while keeping the stuffing intact. This also means that the ass is protected from injuries during the process. And if your little is naughty, the Claw is a great, not too severe OTK paddle.

Conclusion: Nasty small paddle with a dangerously mean side

Pros

Cons

Where to get

Price

Small and nimble for precise hitting

… that flops around when hitting

Regulation

£29.99

With the coupon code ToyTorture you get 10% off your purchase

High quality feel

A bit unbalanced

Carabiner for easy attachment…

Seahorse & Kthulu

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Toy Properties

Form: Dildo
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: 13 colors included & 12 for a surcharge
Firmness: Soft to Medium, custom degrees possible
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Mr Hankey’s Toys

This review has been long in the making. It was actually scheduled to be the first review of 2024 because for years I have been asked to review the Seahorse. Despite being a texture lover, I was never that keen on the Seahorse because the design freaked me a bit out (like tentacles). But having taken one for the team several times and constantly pushing my boundaries, I decided to give this toy a go. Alas, then the cyber attack happened and there were no reviews anymore. So, instead of opening, I am closing the year with these BIG boys.

Construction

When looking at the toys, I was inclined to call this the sea monster edition because both toys are in the broadest way nautically inspired.

The Mr Hankey’s Toys Seahorse & Kthulu

The Seahorse is best describe as a (almost) human dick with a fishing net wrapped around. The glans is medium-tapering and the glans rim is textured with little bumps. The thick shaft is slightly wedge-shaped and bulges at the bottom. The entire shaft is textured with faint ridges. The stem is overlaid with five vertical (one of them “ventral”) and five horizontal veins which form a grid pattern. There the ridges meet, more or less small bumps indicate knots. Below the bulge at the bottom and above the nuts there is a cluster of three thick veins. The bottom are two thick realistic balls which are also textured with the ridges.

While the Seahorse is almost human, Kthulu is truly a great old monster. Instead of glans there is just a half-dome. The upper third of the toys is texture with a random cluster of half-domes and bumps, almost boils which are textured with shallow veins. Below it is a narrow neck which is textured with horizontal ridges. The lower half is a cluster of twisted vertical veins which look like tentacles grabbing the circular base.

Like all MHT toys, both are made out of platinum silicone. The materials is 100% body-safe, super-smooth and easy to clean. A little grain of salt is that silicone toys must not be used with silicone or hybrid lube. Both kinds of lube will disintegrate the surface. Water and oil based lube are safe to be used with silicone toys.

The Vac-U-Lock in the Base of both Toys

Silicone can come in almost every firmness. Choosing the right firmness for your kind of play is important since it impacts the feel and ergonomics of the toy. The firmer the silicone, the less the texture gently massages but “scratches” the sphincter (silicone cannot actually scratch tissue but like all anal toy tear when there is too much stretch too quickly). Also, since the sphincter cannot squeeze the toy in the direction of least resistance, the firmer a toy, the harder to take. On the other hand, softer toys do not stand up and bend away when pressure is applied. So they are harder to handle, especially when riding solo or playing with less trained holes. Since this year, MHT offers four firmness levels with 40% Soft and Extra Firm being new ones which I have not tried yet. Due to the heavy texture and head-heaviness of both toys, I would recommend sticking with 75% Soft and Medium Firmess on the Kthulu and 75% Soft on the Seahorse (why, see below).

Like the firmness, silicone can cover a wide range of colors and patterns. It takes on the colors easily and they do not fade over time. The standard color range includes 13 colors and 12 UV or difficult to handle colors for an up-charge of $29.95 or two marble colors for $39.95.

Seahorse’s Glans

For only $4.95 a Vac-U-Loc hole can be added to every toy. Originally designed to attach the toy to fuck machines, there are a number of nifty accessories out there for this kind of system: Handles, Strap-On harnesses, suction cups and double-dildo connectors. Because of this I highly recommend adding this inexpensive feature to your toy. There are just too many useful scenarios along the way to go cheap on this one – even if you don’t have the accessories. During play I stick my finger in the hole to control the toy more easily.

Playing with the Seahorse and Kthulu

The Seahorse is a mean and demanding toy. Since the grid is not strictly geometrically but twisted – like a fishing net around an object – there is no real resting place for your sphincter. It constantly gets stimulated on one side while needing to relax and open up for another vein on the other side. This makes the Seahorse a toy difficult to take. It is definitively not a scene starter. And most definitively not a width trainer. But when the hole is loose and the anal lips are just flapping around the toy, the Seahorse is a horny fucker! Through the massive base, it has a firm and secure stand, even when bouncing on it hard. The big nuts are a bit hard to grab when playing with a top. If you want to play with a partner, go for the Vac-u-Lock hole for his thumb. Once the toys has been stabilized this way, the big balls are perfect for twisting the toy inside the bottom. Since the texture is equally intense vertically as horizontally, twisting the toy unlocks a (w)hole new dimension. This also makes the toy quite the rosebud bloomer.

The Veiny Fishing Net Texture

Even more than with other toys, the texture intensity makes choosing the right combination of size and firmness important. Usually my advice for choosing a toy is “Don’t buy toys for the hole you have, buy toys for the hole you want.” For the Seahorse my advice is “Look a diameter you can comfortably take, substract 15% and make that number your size guide.” When configuring my toy, I used my usual metric “When in doubt, go big or go home” which landed me at XXXL and leaned towards the Med Firmness because I really want to feel the texture. Despite being anally quite experience and despite using a fair amount of poppers, the toy is too big and to firm to get into the drool-inducing massage flow I get when riding a friend’s Seahorse. If I had to chose again, I would probably go for “just” a large and 75% Soft (40% Soft will most likely keep the toy from standing up straight). The softer silicone is also necessary to unleash the toys full potential. Since it is so thick, it does not really bend, making it difficult to take deep. And this does not even take into account the heavy texture which will really fuck with your second sphincter, especially when the silicone is firm.

Seahorse’s Big Base & Vein Cluster at the Bottom

While the Seahorse starts out nice and becomes a mess further down, Kthulu is quite the opposite. The half-dome at the very tip forces the sphincter open instead of gradually opening it up. Right at the apex the big boils start so the opening process is rather brute force. Because of this it is again not a scene starter but a gape tickler. The complex cluster is best enjoyed in the hands of a skilled top how can not only twist the toy inside the sphincter but can also alter the angle of the penetration. Even small alterations of the attack vector greatly changes the sensation. Since there are nooks and valleys between the bumps, a skilled top can use the Kthulu for prostate stimulation and with the right pressure and firmness for prostate milking.

The Heavily Clustered Tip of Kthulu

Riding it brings out a different kind of sensation. In order to fully enjoy the toy, you have to twist it a bit to find the right orientation of the bumps towards your sphincter. Once found, the bumps will “irritate” the sphincter, making it sensitive. This sensitivity is awesome when riding on the lateral ridges below the bumps – ideally when a bump is pressing against the prostate.

The lower half again is more of a tops tool. Twisting the entwined tentacles creates a sensation of vortex. This is enhanced when twisting in once direction while pushing in and the other while pulling out.

Depthwise, Kthulu is a real advanced toy. Through the “neck” in the middle, the toy has a natural bending point for going deep. However, while it is already a bit of a challenge for the anus to take the tip, for the second sphincter you really need an experienced hole.

The Tentacle Entangled Shaft below the Ridge Textured Neck

All things considered, my testees and I had some fun riding Kthulu or stuffing the hole while lying on the back. But this dildo is best enjoyed with another partner or a fuck machine (which can twist).

Where to buy?

Mr Hankey sells their toys directly through their website. This is the best way to get them when you want to customize them even further. They also run promotions on a regular basis so check their page regular to snatch a bargain. The Seahorse starts at $165.85, the Kthulu at $129.95. But depending on your size and how many extras you add, they can go up beyond $300.

Cobra Chastity Cage

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The Kink3D Cobra with the Key Sleeve and Nether Nudger

Vendor: Kink3D

Welcome back – earlier than expected. Ever since I posted the first pic of my Cobra on Insta and Twitter my inbox has been exploding! In the over 12 years I have been reviewing BDSM and kink toys I have never had so much interest in a toy, been asked particular questions or been urged to quickly publish a review before Locktober begins.

I am not a person to quickly reach a verdict about a toy, especially about one that has been designed for long-term wear (and one for reasons explained below I currently cannot wear for extended periods of time). But again I am humbled by the trust you put into my thoughts so this will be a first more or less in-depth look that I will probably follow-up in a couple of months with additional thought.

Construction

The Kink3D Cobra is a 3D printed cage made out PA12 nylon. This material is on the sturdier and also pricier end of the printing material market. Currently Kink3D offers cages and accessories made out of black, hot pink and aqua blue. I have gotten many questions when why they don’t offer red or lime green ones (talking about summer of the brat) which I have forwarded to Kink3D. What I can assume with my limited 3D printing knowledge that color pigments can effect the sturdiness of the material. So probably some R&D is necessary before new colors can be introduced.

The different Colors Kink3D offers: Black, Fusion Pink and Aqua Blue

The material strength is about 4mm in the middle of the beams making them thicker than the many other 3D printed genuine designs and let alone Cobra knock-offs from China. Due to the material strength the cage is slightly bulkier than delicate metal cage designs but actually lighter than most titanium cages. Stainless steel cages are weighing multiple times of the Cobra. But like with metal cages, when you compress the Cobra with your hands, there is no flex. Because of the heavy duty design I have never received a messages about a broken Cobra cage on my website. Due to the warmth, moisture and constant mechanical stress especially the points where beams meet are prone to breaking. This is especially the case with thinner built polymer cages or if cheaper material are used. I could create a coffee table book with pictures of broken cages I have been sent in the last three years when 3D printed chastity cages really took off.

Another indicator of the great build quality of the surface finish. There are no rough edges or pinpoints. The surface is covered in a semi-gloss smooth texture that is easy to clean, does not leave finger prints and feels warm to the touch.

The design is a traditional three piece design with the cage itself, the base ring and an internal lock. As a standard the locks are keyed alike. But for $25 you can order a randomized lock if you really want to feel secure and helpless. Though truth to be told since the lock is rather small it can be picked very easily by a moderately skilled lock pick. During Folsom Europe I have talked to a few lock picking kinksters regarding the Cobra’s internal lock. It turns out the challenge apparently is picking a lock parallel to your body literally locked in your crotch.

Putting on the Cobra

You start with putting the base ring on. My recommendation is going balls first and then squeeze the dick through. Then you put the cage over your shaft. If skin gets caught, use their Nether Nudger to adjust (see below). When joining the cage and base ring, note that the pins on the cage are not only for guiding but also for sturdily connecting both parts. If the pins are not completely sunken into the holes of the base ring, the lock will not fit! This was actually the biggest misunderstanding when I firstly put on the cage myself. I thought they should only align. But it they the cage does not meet the base ring, the lock cannot be pushed through the entire lock house.

The GUiding Pins need to be Pushed Completely into the Holes on the Base Ring. Otherwise the Lock cannot be pushed through

Speaking of the lock, that is a bit of a challenge to put in. It twists very easily to the shackle jams inside the lock house. Until now I have not found a good way to insert the lock. If I guide it holding the key, the shackle will flip; if I guide it on the lock, the heavy head of the key turns the lock involuntarily, jaming the shackle. But since you are probably not unlocking so often as I do (again, see below), this does not matter as much.

What surprised me in the review process how comfortable you can wear the Cobra even when having a bush. Of course, you need to make sure that hair is not caught between the guiding pins and the holes or inside the lock house. But other than that there is little chance of pinching and tugging.

Sizes & Sizing

At the moment Cobra offers 8 different sizes both in a standard and wide version. In order to determine your size, measure your flaccid dick from the base to the tip. When you are like me and have a meatier dick or want to wear a large piercing inside the cage, go for the wide version. Over the past decade I have tried many chastity cages and they were all too narrow to house my large foreskin covered glans, let alone with a 8x15x12mm piercing. But the Cobra R Wide is so spacious that I almost don’t notice the cage when being soft. Picking the right size is important: If the cage is too long, the glans sit in the shaft tube instead of the bulges head section. If the cage is too short, it can uncomfortably compress your dick, seriously reducing the long-term wear potential. You can find the cage size imprinted on the inside below the locking ring.

There are 8 sizes of base rings which again cover a really wide range of package sizes. Though ending at 60.3mm width I know at least a few big boys who need a larger one. But I am certain Kink3D can accommodate even thick members of the gay community. The ring size is imprinted in the nudge where the locking ring of the cage enters the lock house of the base ring.

The rings are slightly compressed at the tops and elongated at the sides for a rough egg shape. This shape is more anatomically correct and reduces pressure and leverage when moving.

To even further accommodate different anatomies every size is available in three versions: Standard is a simple round 8mm thick round piece of polymer. The XD has an oval intersection with a depth of 10.5mm. This way the gap between the cage base ring is even small. When you have very small, mobile or tight balls this might be the right one for you. If you are like me and have meatier balls or and testicle prosthesis, Kink3D offer also Curved rings which bend 5mm backwards following the anatomically shape of your taint. It reduces the pressure on the balls. By widening the gap from 11mm to 16mm smaller balls can of course more easily slip through the crack.

The Roughly Egg Shaped Base Ring

Choosing the right ring size and is a bit trickier. Your cockring is a good size reference. Though through the egg-shape the behavior of a base ring can be different. The task of the base ring is different than a cockring: The base ring should comfortably and securely keep the Cobra attached to your body without you being able to pull the dick out or a ball slipping through. A cockring should keep the blood inside your penis. Prolonging an erection while being locked in a chastity cage is actually an adverse effect. So especially when you are a grower start with a larger size. Furthermore, depending in your form of day, how full your balls get over time during chastity and the environment (warmer temperatures and higher humidity will make the ball sack looser) your testicles will looks, feel and behave differently. So you might need two or more rings for a perfect fit in different situations or seasons.

If you have the possibility to try out different base rings, I strongly recommend doing it! This is only a snapshot but gives you a good impression if the ring is too tight. The gold standard is trying the base ring with a fitting cage. Since the ring and the cage are connected, the cage exerts leverage on the base ring, pulling it forward and upward. This movement and pull can obstruct circulation to taint and balls. If you feel a burning or tingling sensation in your balls or on your taint, you should take off the cage and try a larger and/ or curved base ring. Constant pressure on your taint and balls can cause lasting irritations on your balls which can lead to serious injuries, especially when the seminal ducts or epididimys are effected.

This is actually the case with my testicle prosthesis: Over time the standard #4 ring put pressure on my cyborg ball and obstructing circulation. As an experienced kinkster who can differentiate between different kinds of pain and knowing that nothing down their could actually necrotize, I placed the pain sensation in the “annoying”, not the “dangerous” category and wore the cage until it got too annoying. Sometimes these were 12 hours, sometimes four hours. The pain was so annoying that I could not fall asleep. Because of this for the review I spent some days and some nights locked but never managed a full 24h. During Folsom Europe a friend pushed me as a virtual key holder to go locked and chaste as long a possible over a couple of days. Despite having the opportunity and indeed order to unlock when it became too uncomfortable I was a good boy and pushed myself until I got released in a scene on Sunday. This push irritate the nerves on my scrotum which are still recovering from the implantation surgery so much that I could not lock for a couple of days. Of course this a borderline case which luckily only effects very few men. But it illustrates well the importance of a correctly fitting base ring! And it also shows the paramount rule of chastity: Physical and mental health comes first!

So my next steps will probably getting a couple of new rings (#4 Curved, #5 and #5 Curved) and see how much I can push myself. You will read all about it in the update in a couple of months.

Long-term Wearing & CBT in the cage

Despite not going for really long streaks, I have had enough wearing experience to give your a glimpse into being locked 24/7 in a Cobra.

The most important aspect of a chastity cage is “How secure is it?” I would place the Cobra on the securer end of the security spectrum. If it is really well-fitted, it is almost impossible to pull the dick out. This is especially true when you are wearing a large piercing. It takes a bit of practice and twisting and turning the cage to get the piercing nicely rested in the head segment. Since you cannot twist the cage while being connected to the base ring, it is impossible to get a large piercing out of the head segment while being locked. For added safety you can of course use a PA lock when you are uncut.

Different Nudging Tools

How a Prince Albert piercing behaves inside the Cobra was actually one of the most often asked reader questions. To be frank, I was surprised how well and easy they both played together. When I got the cage, I was wearing an 8x19x14mm screw in ball, meaning the external diameter of the piercing was 35mm. That was a border line size for the R Wide! It was wearable but required some adjustment throughout the day. The piercing would twist, lock in place and put uncomfortable pressure on my foreskin. Since the piercing was so large it could barely move, I had to take the cage off in most instances. Since sizing down to 8x15x12mm I can easily adjust while wearing the cage using Kink3D Nether Nudger. This is a small 3D printed pin you can wear in your key chain. Especially for meatier and uncut guys, I consider this $10 accessory an essential – regardless if you have a piercing or not! It helps you push the skin in the right direction or adjust the piercing. When you are a grower or uncut, the skin folds sometimes get caught when getting hard or getting soft, leading to really uncomfortable pinching! The tip of the Nether Nudger helps to adjust and push the skin into place. Is is small and nimble enough to fit between the beams and long enough to reach even hard to get-to spots. While you can in theory use other pins, I find the Nether Nudger the most handy tool. In times of need when mine was not at hand, I have used tooth picks (don’t try that at home!), Montblanc pens (kind of ok, but too wide) or keys (depending on the key either too points and scratchy or too wide to get anywhere). The best substitute I have found at my desk was a small mechanical pencil from Liberty, a British friend gifted me some 15 years ago. If you want to keep your kink classy, go for it. But the Nether Nudger fits the aesthetics, material and design of the Cobra better.

When you Cobra is well-fitted, you do not notice it at all as long as your dick stays soft! This is due to the light weight. Heavier cages, especially ones made out of stainless steel develop momentum when moving around. The Cobra is a very calm cage. Cheaper and older cages we locked by a pad-lock that could clink against the cage or its sharp edges and corners press into your lower abdomen. Having an integrated lock this irritation does not occur with the Cobra. So it is perfect to wear all day in almost every kind of cloths.

Despite the R Wide being on the larger end of the size scale, it is not really noticeable as a chastity cage. Most people will just identify it as a bulge. During the review process I have worn the Cobra under jeans and gym cloths, chinos and thin suit cloths with Nasty Pig or Addicted briefs. The structure of the cage does not print through the cloths so people, especially non-kinkster, don’t notice you wearing a cage. Even under .6mm rubber it is just a bulge, under .45mm you start to see structure. Under Speedos or tight fitting jockstraps it of course leaves an imprint.

The Sizing Emprinted in the Cage and Base Ring

When flying back from my US holiday this year, I put the Cobra to the travel test. Neither US nor British security noticed it. I both went through body scanners and metal detectors and it did not show up on any. When going through a body scanner the TSA guard checked my bulky double buckle belt from Mister B but let me go without any further inspection. A friend of mine is working at TSA. If you should face s strip search and are questioned about your chastity cage, he recommended calling it a medical device. But I doubt this piece of advice will not be needed often.

This discrete wearing is curse and gift as the same time. It takes a VERY trained eye to spot a cage below clothing, especially the smaller ones. There are some – and I have to restrain myself to not write a more strongly worded term – people in the community who find it funny to punch or kick subs into the nuts “because the obviously like it.” This is pretty dangerous when wearing the Cobra! The exposing of the balls and leverage of the ring and the pressure a the firm and sturdy cage can put on the testicles can lead to serious injuries, resulting in loosing your balls on the worst case! So if you are a dom, top or sadist don’t be an asshole and ask for consent before busting somebody’s balls.

While technically is it possible to controlled busting somebody’s balls while he is locked in the Cobra, it takes some practice and precise targeting. I would only recommend doing it with toys of the fist. Nut kicks are simply to random for this. Due to the open design, the dick can somewhat be played or tortured with. Wax comes off easily from the PA12 nylon and I have not noticed a tarnishing of the surface. If you are into e-stim, you can either fit conductive pads or 2mm loops inside the cage. In my experience the 4mm are too rigid. What I have done is fitting the Wide cage into smaller dicked boys and using the stainless steel electrodes from Oxballs. One really dexterous US friend of mine sounds his subs using silicone sounds while being locked in the cage. Long story short: The cage is sturdy and flexible enough to get creative.

The material does not resonate much and transfers vibrations fairly well onto the dick inside. For a caged milking, the dick should fill out the cage well. Otherwise the vibrations are not strong enough to stimulate the nerve endings enough to lead to an orgasm.

A Single Key Locked in the Double Key Sleeve

Keeping everything clean down there is easy when you are cut. The large space between the beams allow ample water and soap to keep your dick clean. To expedite the cleaning process, I recommend getting a shower head where you can choose different jet strength settings. Focused, slightly stronger jets makes washing the soap away easier. Uncut guys like me I would recommend unlocking at least every other day to clean below your foreskin. Since it is more compressed than flopping around uncut, piss cannot wash your glans, especially when messaging the last bit from under your foreskin. Because of this, residue piss also lingers a bit.

Taking the cage off for cleaning or adjustment can make self-unlocking necessary. If you don’t live together with your key holder or travel, I recommend getting the Key Sleeve. They are offered for single or double keys since each lock comes with two keys. I went for the double one. While a single key dangles inside the wide sleeve a bit, it is still locked securely. So with the double you have the option to lock one of both keys using numbered seals. The key sleeve comes with 10 seals. If you need more and unlock often due to the various reasons above I recommend buying them in lots of hundreds of eBay or Amazon.

Conclusion: Comfortable and secure chastity for long-term wear

Pro

Cons

Toy

Price

Large range of possible sizes for perfect fit

Lock is a bit difficult to insert

Kits (including cage, base ring & lock)

$170 – $240

Can be worn over extended periods of time

Very well made

Cage

$125 – $185

Sturdy

Base Ring

$45 – $65

Randomized Lock

$25

Nether Nudger

$10

Single Key Sleeve

$25 – $30

Double Key Sleeve

$30 – $35

Head Harness for AVON Gas Masks

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The VAST Head Harness for AVON Gas Masks in Red Superior Latex

Vendor: VAST

Happy Nikolaus Day! As promised last Sunday, here is a short bonus review of a an add-on for your AVON S10/ FM12 gas mask.

Construction

The head harness has the same six-point-shape of the original rubber (S10) or mesh (FM12) head harness of the AVON gas masks. The main difference is that you install roller buckles mounted on small latex straps using screw rivets into the clamp locks for adjusting the original head harness. The roller buckles come in plain or locking variety without a surcharge depending on your taste. Using these roller buckles you can adjust the main body of the head harness. The six straps attached to the back piece are quite long so they will fit even large heads. Since this head harness is one size fits all, on really small heads the access strap can flap around a bit. If you want to learn how to fit this head harness on your gas mask, I posted a little guide here (scroll down to the second half of the guide).

A Roller Buckle mounted onto an FM12’s Clamp Lock

Since VAST uses it’s own aramide reinforced Superior Latex for this head harness you cannot shorten the straps on your own. The good thing is because of the reinforcement you can really tighten or pull on it HARD. You will rather rip the locks off than then tear the rubber so don’t exert too much force.

Off the rack the harness comes in the “standard” fetish colors black, red and yellow. But I am sure you can ask for custom colors within the 4D Latex color scheme.

Playing with the Head Harness for AVON Gas Masks

For me this head harness is an innovative and breath-play suitable answer to the often asked question “Where can I a hood attached to my AVON gas mask?” A few years ago many rubber makers used to attach hoods to S10/ FM12 gas masks with a zipper at the back for a full rubber drone look. Currently I think only Blackstyle in Berlin and Regulation in London do this anymore if at all. Attaching a hood was often a not quite satisfactory thing because getting the fit right was difficult: Unlike a flexible rubber hood which wraps around the head, there is a big, stiff “front piece” which determined the fit of the rest of the hood. One result of this was that the actual gas mask did not create a full seal, making it unsuitable for breath play.

The Head Harness Attached to a Breathing System-ready FM12

With this head harness made out of latex you can create a hot looking, full rubber feeling yet still gas-tight configuration. For this put on your tight fitting latex hood as a base layer and then fetter the gas mask over it. This way your head is completely enveloped in rubber but the gas mask fits tight enough for proper breath play. Despite being aramide reinforced the rubber is soft so lying on the head harness is not uncomfortable. The rubber buckles are on the side so even the locks on the locking ones don’t press into your head when bound to the back.

The Back Piece with the Long Straps

The rubber base layer also keeps the head harness’ rubber from touching your skin and hair so you don’t need to clean it. Since oils and fats which are present on your skin and hair can destroy rubber over time, you need to clean latex after skin contact. Keep this in mind when using the head harness on bare skin.

Despite the wide range of adjustability I strongly recommend initially getting the right size gas mask size for your head! In order to work properly, the gas mask needs to create a tight seal around your face. Choosing a too large or too small gas mask will make this seal difficult, especially around the chin regardless how strong you tighten the straps.

Conclusion: Great feeling and highly functional alternative to attached rubber hood.

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Wide range of adjustability for breath play-ready gas-tight fit

VAST

99€

Full rubber feeling

Extremely sturdy

Lockable option available without surcharge

Breathing System – AVON Upgrade Kit

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Vendor: VAST

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

An Upgraded AVON FM12

Two months ago I showed you how to upgrade an AVON FM12 in order to make it ready to work with the VAST Breathing System. As some of you might have noticed, I used the S10 Upgrade Kit to upgrade an FM12. Back when the Breathing System was first introduced, it was the only upgrade kit available. As you can see, it works perfectly. But if you have an FM12, you can save you some trouble and 10€ if you buy the correct kit right away.

For the Breathing System to work properly, the gas mask needs to fit tightly on the face. This can be done using the standard straps of your gas mask. But for added fetish value, VAST offers a head harness made out of their Superior Latex. I will take a look at this add-on in a small bonus review coming December 6th, Saint Nicholas Day in Germany.

The Mounting Insert with the different Tunnel Inserts

Construction

The Upgrade Kit consists of two groups of elements: One group is used to turn the standard mono-directional breathing of a gas mask into closed circuit for breath play. For this you first need to replace the front unit where the used air is exhaled with a mounting insert and sealing cap. Then you replace the speaking valve with an exhalation valve (S10) or change the breathing direction of the right GM40 port with a screw-in valve (FM12). The other group are a flashlight classic and a flashlight GO inserts and three simple tunnels (internal diameter: 40mm, 45mm and 50mm) you can screw into the mounting insert for added fun. To help you upgrade your gas mask, the kit comes with a stainless steel tool, silicone grease and plastic care.

All elements are 3D printed. For the first batches they sometimes used a dark blue polymer because it was sturdier so some of my elements are this shade. They have now found a black one with equal properties so you should get all black toys with the typical silky-rough surface of a 3D printed object. This manufacturing process also explained the price: Especially the larger items take hours to print and require a lot of polymer. Due to the small numbers these toys will be made cheaper manufacturing methods like die casting is not an alternative. So like with many kink toys you have the pay a premium for premium quality toy.

The Exchanged Front Unit and Exhale Valve

Being 3D printed, all elements fit perfectly into each other and are air-tight. The air seal is supported by the silicone grease which also makes all parts move smoothly. Do not use oil based lubrication for these toys! Oil and grease will damage and destroy rubber and latex! Since the gas masks, hoses and rebreathing bags for breath play are made out of rubber, you will harm these elements permanently.

Like most elements of the Breathing System the Upgrade Kit comes in a nice wooden box with foam cut-outs to store the individual elements. Since some elements are permanently installed in the gas mask, about half the box is empty after the upgrade process. But it is still a nice touch and adds to the value of the kit, especially if you want to gift it.

Playing with an Upgraded AVON Gas Mask

In order to use the VAST Breathing System with a (gas) mask need a model with two separate GM40 ports and unidirectional airflow (in through one port, out through the other). There are some rubber makers who manufacture specific breath play (gas) masks with these properties but they are quite expensive. Most military or civilian gas mask like the old UDSSR, German, Danish or Israeli ones only have one port.

The Installed Fleshlight GO Holder

Because of this VAST chose to offer an upgrade kit for the AVON S10 and FM12 respirators, one of the most common gas masks in the fetish scene. The FM12 already has two ports, the S10 can easily be converted to fit a second one. With a little bit of skill and strength, even a clumsy person like me can upgrade one of those masks. For people not very familiar with these gas masks, the steps are not intuitive and sadly at least my very early version of the upgrade kit did not come with instructions. Because of this I made this little tutorial. Once you have understood what to do and have the tools at hand, it should take you 10-15 minutes to upgrade the masks. The provided upgrade tool is nice and helpful. Without it I am not sure if I could have upgraded my masks because the blade of a screwdriver is narrow and has a straight blade. Still, please be careful when handling the tool because it has pointy ends. During the upgrade process I managed to give myself some small, superficial wounds.

If you do not want to play with a gas mask or don’t want to upgrade your AVON respirator, VAST offers a Medical Face Mask with a Splitter and a Superior Latex Head Harness to attach it to the head. This is good because sadly due to age, the Brexit and gas masks being export and import restricted armaments in most countries, AVON gas masks have become hard to come by, especially outside the UK. So it is good to have an alternative.

A Classic Fleshlight Turning the Gimp Into a Fuck Pussy

If you need the other elements of the kit depends on your personal playing style. I very much enjoy the tunnel inserts. They allow to facefuck or force feed the sub without taking him out of his gas mask/ drone headspace. Theoretically you could fuck him through the hole of the mounting insert but the tunnels cover the sharp edges of the thread. Also, unscrewing the sealing cap and installing a tunnel gave some very gimpy subs an extra kick because they are being manipulated like an object or refitted like a machine. The internal diameter covers the most common range of dick diameters. Though is you are very well endowed, the max. internal diameter of 50mm might be a bit too tight. If you struggle with tightness or want to enjoy the smooth friction of the tunnel walls, you can use both water or silicone based lubes to make your dick slide through more easily. To clean the tunnels afterwards, simply handwash them with warm soap water. The polymer the parts are manufactured out of is quite sturdy but I would not trust it to be dishwater safe.

The next level of objectification are the Fleshlight (GO) holder. The Fleshlight maker offers a wide range of designs from greedy mouth over slutty ass to technical, almost drone-like designs. Each different front has a different texture inside. So you can choose into what object you want to turn your slave into. Naturally the Flashlights are too long so you need to shorten them using a sharp bread knife. The final length depends on if you want a seamless transition from Fleshlight to slave mouth.

In order to Leave Space for the Sub’s Head, the Fleshlight needs to be Shortened

Some testees were driven wild by the look and headspace of turning their gimp into a fuck/ ass/ hole face. Personally, this did nothing for me. So my advice is to give it a dry run fucking the gas mask without a gimp because shortening it accordingly.

Some testees rightfully criticized that the upgrade kit is only sold with the different inserts and addons. They are a nice to have but personally I rarely use them and could very well live without them. Being big 3D printed objects they are probably a considerable part of the final kit price. Or in other words, expensive pieces of gear some people will have lying around unused. Because of this I would love to see the real upgrade parts being offered separately from the inserts.

However, I love the concept of the interchangeable front cover! I have already so many new cover ideas: An ash tray, a drink tablet, toilet paper holder, a chew gag on the inside, a piss funnel. The creative minds at VAST will probably come up with even more perverted ideas. So I look forward to the future of the system and its expansion.

Conclusion: Necessary tools to make an AVON respirator Breathing System ready bundled with some not really necessary accessories.

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

All the necessary party to make AVON S10/FM12 ready for the breathing system

A bit difficult to install

VAST

S10 Kit 259€

FM12 Kit 249€

Interchangeable cover for added play options

Only sold in a bundle with different screw-in add-ons

Savage (Sucks) Hood

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The Mr S Leather Savage Sucks Hood

Vendor: Mr S Leather (US) & Regulation (EU)

As the pre-Christmas season and shopping-wise Black Friday approaches, the number of questions about higher end pieces of bondage increases. Like the past few years I switch up a gear for the coming weeks to bring you the best in once-in-a-lifetime-purchase leather bondage gear reviews.

Construction

The Savage Hood are full-head encapsulating pieces of head gear. The are four panel constructions so with additional structuring seams around the neck. The nose is anatomically shaped and specious enough for larger noses. These things all lead to a great anatomically approximation and an overall great fit.

At the back a wide piece of leather covers the gap between to panels so the hood can fit many different head sizes. Left and right of this gap from almost the temple down to the bottom runs two lines of high quality cinch rings. Through these rings a piece of nylon rope is threaded. Both the rope and rings are heavy duty so when you pull the rope hard to fasten the hood tight around the head you do not need to fear of any element giving in.

The Cinch Rings and the Perforated Leather

The hood itself is made out of high quality garment leather which is perforated all over. It is a bit lighter than the leather on other Mr S hoods but this does not impact the overall high quality feel. Due to the many holes, the hood is well ventilated. So there is considerably less leather smell when you put on the hood.

All edges are piped with smooth leather so there are no rough or unfinished edges. This review is mainly based on the Savage Sucks Hood which has a chin cut out which of course is also lined with piping.

Playing with the Savage (Sucks) Hood

Being made out of perforated leather, the Savage hoods are designed to be breathable. At first I was skeptical how much ventilation actually comes through since the holes are very small and delicate. The hood was put to test at sunny pride parades, stuffy play parties and sweat inducing heavy play scenes. All testees reported that they were able to breath more easily and manage the heat build-up around the head better. This is also due to the leather being a bit thinner than for example on the Bag Hood. Even when fastened tight the leather still wraps lightly, almost airily around the head. Due to this the Savage hoods are not made for heavy bondage guys who crave the feeling of being tightly wrapped in leather.

The Piped Chin Opening and Anatomically Molded Nose

On the other hand, it makes the hood a good beginners hood or for people who struggle a bit with claustrophobia. Like the Bag Hood there is no tight bondage feeling of the leather grabbing and pressing against the skull. It is a caressing feeling of soft, high quality leather enveloping the sub’s head.

The perforation is spaced well enough to allow for quite proper field of view. Naturally everything is darker and especially at the outer edges, the view is obstructed. But overall the view is fine to operate and orientated independently and confidently, especially in well lit surroundings. Dark playrooms and clubs can be a bit of a challenge but most subs adjusted quickly. These properties makes the Savage hoods the perfect gear when your sub wants to remain anonymous in public settings. Conversely if you want to take take the sight from your sub, you will need to add a blindfold.

The Four Panel Design of the Hood with Structuring Seams

From a gear “fashion” point of view, I love the Savage hoods as a base-layer for other head gear. One of the hottest and most functional look is putting a muzzle or a Bishop Head Harness over the Savage hood. Especially with the Savage Sucks it creates a very smooth look as it covers the chain cut out. For a more artistic look the Fetters Strap Head Cage makes for an interesting contrast between the smooth surface of the perforated leather and texture the many straps add. Since the Strap Head Cage is locking, it also makes this leather prison inescapable. This can also be achieved when you lock the Mr S Heavy Duty Posture Collar to the neck. The Chin Plate gives the non-existing face a nice frame and accentuates the anonymity – or even more focuses the attention on the mouth with the Savage Sucks.

Speaking of the Savage Sucks chin cut out: During I put this hood onto many different body types and head shapes. The chin cut out almost always aligned perfectly giving the hood a very finished look. It is opened enough for the mouth to open completely to swallow even big dicks or getting deepthroated hard and deep.

Conclusion: Hot looking hood with cool ventilation

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Unique and hot look

… thus not the most intense bondage feeling

Mr S Leather

Savage $249.95

Savage Sucks $269.95

Good field of view when wearing it

Fastening strap being made out of nylon instead of leather

Regulation

Savage Sucks £289

Very airy and light…

Fetters Braided Cat o Nine

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The Fetters Braided Cat o Nine

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The name of this whip is telling: Each of the nine falls is braided out of four thin leather straps. At the end they are finished with a small knots so the ends form little four fall “floggers”. The straps are made out of soft, medium density, low weight cow hide. This in combination with a tight and neat braid give the falls a very high quality feel and appeal.

At a first glance the handle looks equally elaborate. A black and red braided leather pummel on top covers the attachment points of the falls to the handle. This pummel also houses a leather patch with the Fetters logo embossed into it which I find an interesting location at best (see below). A single strap of what feels like latigo leather lines the handle in one spiral. It is attached to the core with four seams. At the bottom there is yet another black and read leather pummel which houses a quite long latigo leather loop. Speaking of bottom: The pummel only covers the side of the core not the bottom giving it a bit of an unfinished feel.

All things considered, the grip is very economically designed with an aspiring premium leather appeal. Form followed function here while you can see where corners were but. But considering the price of the toy it is exceptional value for money. Yet compared to other whips and floggers with braided grip cover and loops, a pummel that is used to really attach the falls to the grip instead of just covering the attachments points, this Braided Cat o Nine is a bit more basic especially compared to the flogger from the same range. Considering the cost these are minor points because…

The Latigo Loop hold by a „Lateral“ Pollem and thus unfinished Bottom

Playing with the Braided Cat o Nine

… from a play point of view, it is even better value for money!

At first I was skeptical how well this toy would perform. With all the tails just laterally “attached to a stick” I wondered how well they would fly. Turns out, actually pretty great! Even at low intensities all tails fly precisely into the direction they are thrown without any breaking out. Targeting is easy making this toy surprisingly suitable for beginners. This property is supported by the low weight and still good balance point which is about at 4/5 of the handle length. You do not need much technique to rein in the momentum heavier floggers can develop while throwing.

Detail of the Braided Fall with the Finishing Knot

The overall great handling is a bit compromised by the Fetters logo tag. If the tag is in the throwing direction the tails break away. Since you usually do not turn the handle while whipping, simply make sure that the tag is facing you when picking up the whip so it should not be a problem. Annoyingly – at least at my whip – the tag was not a 100% aligned with the leather loop. Especially when the loop is not broken in, it wants to sit comfortably on your wrist. So you intuitively start to turn the handle until the loop sits comfortably – and the tag gets a bit in the way again. Over time you will learn to compensate the tag but especially at the beginning it is extremely irritating especially for beginners.

Which is a shame because overall, this toy is a surprisingly good beginner’s whip despite leaning towards sting due to the light weight. The combination of the great flying properties combined with the light and soft leather allow the top to caress and teas the bottom’s back lightly at low intensities. Because the falls are so light, I would not consider it a warm-up toy. The strokes are simply too light to increase the circulation sufficiently. As soon as you ad heft to your blows, the sting and intensity ramps up quickly. The sensation is of course focused on the knots which bite but the bottom will most likely also feel the scratch of the short tails behind the knots. These multitude of sensations is the greatest feat of this whip: Once you have learned to wield it properly, it offers many different sensations. Targeted precisely the end of the small floggers can just scratch the skin. Hitting exposed or raised areas of the back just right, almost only the knots hit. Throwing it like a flogger the is a bit of thuddy feeling along the impact area – until the tail ends sting like a lightning. So completely mastered the Fetters Braided Cat o Nine tails is truly a multitrick pony.

The Top Pummel with the Fetters Logo and the Leather Lined Handle

Speaking of great sensation range: Because the hanging loop is so long, it can be used as an impact of of its own. The pain is not sever but being made out of thin latigo leather, it bits a bit. Since the bottom expects a whip like impact sensation, teasing him with it it or inflicting agony when precisely targeting bruised areas adds to the wide range of possibilities with this whip.

Conclusion: Easy to throw whip with wide range of sensations and basic fitments.

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Wide range of possible sensations

Annoyingly placed logo patch which impairs the handling

Regulation

£68.41

Easy to handle and throw

Handle design cuts corners

Good value for money

Selection of McHurt Bats

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The McHurt Mini Teacher’s Bat, Mini Bat, Long Bat & Padded Long Bat

Vendor: McHurt

Before I start this review, a word on McHurt in general. Founded in 2007, their mission is to bring functionally high quality kink toys at affordable prices. Based in Berlin-Tempelhof, they were the first kink shop I have ever visited back in the summer of 2008. Some of the clamps that I have bought at that visit I still used and treasure today. They have an online shop but their in-store offering is WAY bigger. They have the a very large selection of different impact toys and I personally own at least fifty different ones from them.

Their core audience is more the straight scene which is reflected in their products. In 2022 I sent them drafts for two wooden impact toys because I could not find a maker to make them for me. They refused, saying my reviews are too critical because the gay scene has higher quality expectations than the straight one. So when I talk about their toys, keep this and their name in mind: From a functional point of view, they are great and will last you a lifetime. And the prices are incredible. But to achieve this they have to cut some small corners which I gladly allow to pass considering the value you get.

Construction

All the toys I am looking at today are so called bats, also called blades. They all have a short grip section which than tapers into a narrow and long – in case of the leather ones slightly cone-shaped – impact area and a rounded tip. All toys feature a hole at the end through which a leather loop is threaded to secure the toy to your wrist and for easy storage.

The leather bats are made out of two layers of very thick and stiff bridle leather. The leather and stitching come in some “kinky” colors like black and reds. Between them sits a piece of spring steel for added sturdiness. If you hit HARD or store the toy bent, the toy can deform a bit (this often happens to me when I cramp the toys in my toy bag). Once taken out simply bend it in shape again. Both leather pieces are glued together and sown around making these toys virtually indestructible. The edges are beveled, deburred and burnished for a nice and quality feel and look. The wrist loop is a little bit more basic with a piece of soft garment leather split in the middle to form a loop.

The two-layer construction of the Leather Bats. On the Right you can see a bit of deformation which you can easily bend back into shape

The small bat is 280mm long of which about 160mm can be used for impact, depending on your palm size. The maximum width is 33mm on the small one and 48mm on the long one which has an overall length of 420mm. At least 280mm of the length can be used for hitting.

The Long Bat comes in a padded version which sadly is not available on their website (if interested, simply write them a mail). On this toy one side is completely covered with medium-firm foam and lined with smooth garment leather.

Example of the manufacturing quality „shortcomings“ like split leather loop, the uneven stitching or not oiled hole in the wooden paddle for the leather loop. All these imperfections do not impair the play properties and are just esthetic!

The (Mini) Teacher’s Bat is made out of beautiful rosewood. It has been painstakingly sanded and oiled for a smooth finish with really brings out the grain and character of the wood – except the countersunk hole for the loop which edges are not oiled. It is great that the wood is oiled instead of lacquered like on other wooden toys I know. Lacquer has the tendencies to crack and splinter off over time leaving an ugly, rough surface. Speaking of smooth, the shape and edges has been rounded very well. It almost feel like a worry stone. Cross-section of this toy is almost oval. The wrist loop is made out of leather lace which I like a lot more than the split garment leather on the bats.

The Mini Teacher’s Bat is 265mm long of which roughly 160mm can be used. At the widest point it is 45mm wide. Sadly I don’t own the Teacher’s Bat – I cannot have (and store!) ALL the toys in the world, can I? – so the length of 460mm and width of approx 50mm comes form McHurt’s website. Considering the size similarity to the Long Bat, I just assume it can be wielded like the Long Bat.

Both wood and leather need about the same level of maintenance. After play, wipe them off with a wet cloth. If body fluids have been drawn, spray them with a sanitizer. Over time, this will dry out the material. The wood can be brought back to style using a paper towel with a bit of olive oil, for the leather use the leather care of your choice (personally I use Lexol but you can ask your boot black of choice)-

Playing with the Bats

Bats are some of the most universal impact toys out there. Their thin footprint makes them the perfect choice from large areas like the ass and thighs to more delicate ones like the soles of the feet for bastonado/ falaka or the palms of your sub’s hands. Especially on the latter body areas, be careful with the intensity as the small bones in the hands and feet break easily! With a bit of practice you can precisely target the blows to the very sensitive body area where the ass cheeks transition to the thighs or the inside of the thighs. The smaller versions of the toys are great for targeted, small area impact like glans spanking, ball smacking or nipple hitting.

The rounded shape and flowing lines of the Mini Teacher’s Bat

The relatively thin impact area naturally focuses the kinetic energy on a small body area. So an equally intense blow with a bat will feel more intense than with standard paddle. For an ever more focused blow, hit with the side of the bat! This is even more important considering the material these toys are made out of. The bridle leather is very dense and stiff and the wood, well… is wood. There is little give or softness in the material so all toys are stingy. Surprisingly the rounding of the wood makes it feel smoother so it is a bit less stingy than the wooden counterparts. An exception of course is that padded side of the Long Bat. Even intense, focused blows are thuddy making it a truly universal toy.

Due to the stiffness of the material, all bats are great for tapping. The intensity can be very gradually adjusted because there is almost no flex. The Mini Bat is also good for snapping. Despite the flexibility of the leather and the spring steel you can build up tension easily. This process will deform the toy over time but you can easily bend it back in shape. Due to its rounded shape, the Mini Teacher’s Bat is not perfect for snapping. The smooth shape simply makes it hard to keep it from slipping and this building tension.

Comparing the Padded and regular version of the Long Bat

Tapping can be used for warm-up but it is a sub-optimal process. It either takes very long or once you increase intensity, you already deal out quite the intensity beyond warm-up. Unless you have to Padded Long Bat. The padded side is equally perfect for warm-up and long, intense sessions with novices or more thud-loving bottoms. The only downside for warm-up is that due to the narrow blade, it takes a bit longer to cover a large body area like the ass or thighs compared to a classic paddle. But once you switch sides, you have the flash-like sting of the firm, dense bridle leather! If you only have ONE impact toy in your toy collection, the Padded Long Bat is actually the perfect choice offering – albeit focused – thud and sting. These properties makes it a good beginner’s to to start out with so it has become my go-to gift if I want to give a novice top something to start out with.

This is also due to the easy handling. You can easily target your blows and finely tune the intensity. One drawback is that due to the shape bats are always unbalanced. They are head-heavy and overtime can tire out your wrist. Especially since due to the stiffness and the narrowness there is a bit of “blowback”. On the plus side if you keep your rhythm the toy develops momentum, bit like a flogger, making the impact easier – especially on the long ones.

Conclusion: Easy to handle and versatile impact toys for a great price!

Pro

Cons

Where to get

Price

Wide range of sensations and hitting modi, especially on the padded one

Unbalanced and giving “blowbacks”

Mini Bat

19,80€

Easy to handle

Long Bat

29,80€

Ceteris paribus good manufacturing quality

Padded Long Bat (not available online; write a mail)

39,80€

Exceptional value for money

Mini Teacher’s Bat

16,80€

Teacher’s Bat

24,50€

Alpha Whips Junior Snake Whip

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The Alpha Whip 2ft Junior Snake Whip in a Custom Adaptive Version

Vendor: Alpha Whips

Construction

This whip is very traditionally made: At the bottom is a lead-weighted pommel to balance the whip followed by a spring core. Being a Snake Whip there is no dedicated grip section with a second knot before the body like on a Bullwhip. At the end of the body a single paracord becomes the so call “fall” to which the cracker is attached by a loop. The cracker can be made out of Dacron or Dyneema. Dacron is a bit more stiffer and sharper and thus more stingy. It also takes longer to break in for cracking the whip. The upside is that the falls at the end do not tangle easily when cracking. My cracker is made out of Dyneema because it is softer and the chances of breaking the skin are next to nothing.

Lengthwise you can choose between 2ft and 5ft. The length is measure from the end of the pommel to where the fall begins. Choosing the right length is not an easy task. The most important thing to consider is your play space: The more confined the short the whip should be. Next is your play style, how you throw your whip. As a beginner I would recommend 3ft because it is a good compromise between handling, being able to crack it and throwing the whip far away from you. Despite controlling my whip fairly well, I still manage to unintentionally hit myself… If you want Hollywood style show throwing and cracking, you will need longer whips.

Nota bene: My whip is a custom Adaptive Snake Whip in 2ft length and 12 plaits. So where on a standard Snake Whip the fall is, I have a loop for attaching various attachments like a Dragon Quirt or a braided nylon fall onto which my cracker is attached. The plus side of an Adaptive whip is versatility. In theory you do not need carry several whips to a scene but can exchange the impact implement. In practice I rarely do it because it takes a bit of time. The downside is that doe to the nylon fall I basically ended up with a 3ft whip.

On a normal Snake Whip the Fall would begin here. At my Adaptive Whip there is the Loop for attaching different Implements

What makes whip from Alpha Whip special is the material it is made out of: Is completely made out of paracord.  In case of the Junior Whip it is made out of 550lb Nylon paracord which is perfect considering the length of the whip and thus force the material is subjected to. If you have experience which leather whips, you will have to adjust a bit. Out of the box, the body is less stiff and thus the whip is easier to throw right away. But unlike leather, the material will not break in over time. The braid will loosen just a little bit but not too much. So once you have learned to control your whip your throwing style does not need to adjust much to the changing whip properties. Another advantage is that the whip does not need maintenance beyond exchanging the cracker.

Speaking of the braid, it is very neat, tight and even which is an indicator for the quality and long term durability of the whip. The Junior Series has as 12 plait braid which means 12 cords are used to make the whip. Higher braid count means tighter braid and more detailed patterns. Since all whips are custom made, you can choose from a wide range of patterns and colors. My Snake Whip is a two-color Double Diamond in black and neon green both on the handle and the pommel.

Lead-Weighted Pommel with Hanging Loop

The pommel can have a different color than the handle and you can choose if you want a small loop for hanging the whip. I would highly recommend this for shorter whips because since the nylon does not break in as much as leather does, you cannot curl the whip like Indiana Jones does. Better store them hanging.

Finally a word on pricing: When I talk about flogger or whips at my impact play workshops or with interested people after they have seen me throw whips at Quälgeist for example, a common topic is where to get inexpensive whips for beginners. Being made out of paracord, Alpha Whips are already on the lower end of the price spectrum for good handmade whips. It takes hours to braid a whip like this. It takes a large stock of material you have to finance in order to offer this wide range of colors. And most importantly it takes years to learn how to make great whips. For that reason whips quality whips that will last you years of heavy play cannot come at a discount price. So like with anal toys where I always recommend saving for more expensive but safer to play with platinum silicone toys, better safe for another half year and get a proper whip instead of something cheap.

But don’t safe or wait too long for the whip you want. For most whip makers making whips is a hobby. If they had to make a living from it, whips would be even more expensive. So on a regular basis famous whip makers stop making their toys because they cannot justify the – personal – costs anymore.

Progression of the Braid from 12 plait to the Fall

Playing with the Junior Snake Whip

Each whip has a natural orientation in which it wants to go. In order to find this orientation hold the whip on the pommel and see into which direction it leans. You should always throw the whip on this plane because it will naturally lean towards it. Throwing it perpendicularly will make it harder to control because the whip will be pulled sideways while the momentum is propelling it forward.

The Fluff of a Dyneema Cracker

In order to learn how to control the whip, a proven technique is taking a large piece of cardboard and draw the outlines of a human torso onto it. Put this on the wall and throw your whip at it aiming at specific areas. Caution: Make sure there is nothing fragile about a meter left and right of the target and behind you. My poor plants speak from experience…

There are two ways to throw this whip: The easier one is “lashing”. You hold the pommel in your dominant hand and hold the fall in the other. Now extend your dominant arm until it is slightly bend and pull the other arm backwards. How far you pull backwards and thus put load the whip with tension will determine the impact intensity. If you want to add even more intensity, press your thump against the grip. This will add a surprising amount of kinetic energy. With lashing you can fairly easy and quickly develop a good aim. Since you always have to “charge” your whip again, lashing it not made for rapid strokes.

The other one is called “rolling” because you roll the whip forward. It is the style seen in movies and most porn. For this style, you wind the whip up by putting it behind your back and propel it forward using your shoulder, upper and lower arm. In this style the whip hits the bottom diagonally from above. Since you use all the muscles in your arm and your shoulder to propel the whip forward (and for advanced players even in your torso when you add a turning it towards the bottom), you can gather considerably more kinetic energy and thus increase the pain. Also you can develop a pendulum movement for rapid strokes. But the whip is much more harder to control and proper aim takes a lot of experience. Especially since you need to adjust to the height of every bottom.

The Loop on top of the Fall for Attaching the Cracker

Regardless of the throwing technique, when pulling the whip back for the next stroke, be careful not to hit yourself! On numerous occasions I gave myself a more or less thorough arm and back whipping in a scene…

If you are into extreme, long whipping, especially if you want to break the skin, I highly recommend exchanging the crackers between partners. Otherwise pathogens get transferred from one player to another. Such whipping bottoms usually have their own crackers they give the top before the scene.

Finally, a word on cracking. Cracking is when you throw the whip and there is a cracking sound. This sound is emitted when the cracker breaks the sound barrier. Unlike leather whips, even the short Snake Whip can be made cracking with a bit of practice. I found it easier to crack the whip with lashing than rolling because the kinetic energy is focused in one burst instead of building over time. Since the whip apexes in the middle of the air instead on a bottom, be extra careful of your surroundings. It makes the whip a bit more difficult to control.

Conclusion: Really well-made single tail for beginners and experienced whippers
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Does not breaking in I could not really find any weak spots during the test. If you are in the market for a single tail and except it not being made out of the traditional material leather there is no reason not to buy one of these Alpha Whips Starting at 105€
Easy to crack
Good value for money
No maintenance needed
Made in Germany, so for EU readers no high shipping costs and import duties like on US whips