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Pig-Hole Popper

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The Oxballs Pig-Hole Popper Jumbo Gaper, Tall & Big Gaper

Vendor: Oxballs

Toy Properties

Form: Tunnel Plug
Material: Silicone
Colors: Solid Black, Mables: Red&Orange, Blue&Teal, Lime&Olive, Purple&Lavender, Violet&Light Blue, Magenta&Pink
Firmness: Medium; does not collapse when standing up.
Lube: Water and Oil based. Silicone or hybrid lube can destroy the toy!
Cleaning: Soaking in boiling water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Expose to boiling water to kill germs
Storage: Store standing up in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damaging the toys.

When Oxballs announced that they would be releasing some new, even bigger Pig-Hoes, my inbox exploded. If had played with one yet, what my opinion on those were, how the new silicone blend compared to the old one. Against popular opinion I only very rarely get preproduction samples. So during my USA trip in September I stocked up with some new Oxballs stuff. And after some thorough review scenes, here are my thoughts.

Construction

All Pig-Hole Popper share the same basic design of Pig-Holes. The Popper Tall and Big Gaper are versions of the Pig-Hole Deep (link to review), the Jumbo Gaper is basically an Pig-Hole FF (link to review). They also keep the basic wall strength. Inside the barrel is textured with lateral ridges like on their cousins. The big different is that the outside of the barrel is not smooth but it is textured with big bumps. There are three on the Big Gaper, four on the Tall and five Bumps on the Jumbo Gaper. Like the Pig-Hole Deep and FF all Popper cannot be turned inside out.

Before I come to the dimensions, a word on the maximum dimensions. After my last Pig-Hole reviews, I have gotten a couple of messages complaining that my measurements are not accurate. The combined the Pig-Hole with a dick/ fist/ toy and the maximum dimensions were considerable larger than described. Since the silicone is flexible, it will stretch. So the toy can feel and be considerable larger than measured when stuffed!

Toy Base Bottom Opening Max. Dimensions Top Opening Insertable Length Overall Length
Big Gaper 80x93mm 37x45mm 67x68mm 33x38mm 110mm 145mm
Tall 102x116mm 47x54mm 80x86mm 43x50mm 150mm 192mm
Jumbo Gaper 87x118mm 52x67mm 105x106mm 49x64mm 107mm 150mm

The Opening of the Jumbo Gaper compared to the FF

For the Popper range, Oxballs uses a new platinum silicone blend they call “Marshmallow silicone”. Of course the material has the same material properties as every other silicone blend. It is non-toxic, hypoallergenic, easy to clean and sanitize with warm soap water.  In order not to damage the toys, only use it with water- or oil-based lubes. The silicone oil in silicone lube disintegrates the silicone over time. Firmness-wise I recall reading a Shore 00-value on Twitter. But since I cannot find the Tweet again, I am not going to quote it, especially since the value sounded quite low compared to the felt firmness. Subjectively the firmness sits between the regular Pig-Hole silicone and the Oxballs’ Morph silicone.

Colorwise Oxballs follows recent years’ trend of marbled, brightly colored anal toys. Besides the classic Solid Black, the offer six marble colors: Fire (Red & Orange), Water (Blue & Teal), Weed (Lime & Olive), Orchid (Purple & Lavender), Unicorn (Violet & Light Blue) and Rosebud (Magenta & Pink).  My Popper Jumbo is Black, the Popper Big Gaper Water and the Popper Tall’s color is Rosebud. Each marble is different with an individual color and pattern. Personally, I would have preferred my Water to have more blue and instead of the Rosebud and Black, I’d chosen Fire and Weed. But since there were so many review requests coming for these toys, I chose availability over colors.

The Bottom of the Jumbo Gaper and FF

Playing with the Pig-Hole Poppers

Despite being firmer than the Morph silicone (link to review), the Marshmallow of the Poppers is squishy yet far from the sponginess of the Marshmallows. “Firm Fudge” would probably been a better description though in regards of anal play probably not as sexy as Marshmallow.

The bumps around the barrel have two effects: First, the added texture makes taking the toy more difficult. The bumps are well rounded but the “rugged” surface keeps the toys from sliding in as easily as its smooth cousins (nota bene: I have not yet played with the Pig-Hole Squeal but I assume it’s texture will make it more difficult to take it). Second, the massive lumps around the barrel make it more rigid. Surprisingly, fisting through the Popper Jumbo Gaper is not much more difficult than through the Pig-Hole FF in regular firmness (I don’t have a Morph for comparison). This is partly due to the Marshmallow silicone being softer and the grooves between the bumps serve as expansion joints. With very small and nimble hands you can fist through the Popper Tall. The Popper Big Gaper is not fistable regardless of how small and strong the hand is!

The Bumps/ Knots of the Pig-Hole Popper

But the Big Gaper is the perfect dick sheath if you want to get knot-fucked! Most fantasy sheaths are made out of too thin, too soft silicone so they slip off easily. This is not the case with the Big Gaper! Of course with either need to grab the base while fucking or put the plug in a strap-on harness before you put in on your dick. For REALLY well-endowed guys, this might also work with the Popper Tall. Naturally, the Big Gaper is also a good fuck plug. The ridged inside the barrel will massage the glans while it slides through the tunnel.

The different Pig-Hole Popper stuffed with the Organotoy Sit-Plug, the Topped Toys Gape Keeper and SquarePeg Egg Plugs

The added spring and rigidity of the bumps makes folding the Pig-Hole Popper more difficult. If you are not extremely lose, folding the Pig-Hole is the best way to insert it. To fold the Poppers, grab the bumps on the lower end of the aperture and push those inwards. This is quite difficult with a well-lubed toy but it is the only way to decrease the diameter and make the toy more compact to push it through the sphincter. It truly is a toy for those holes who are not challenged by the larger Pig-Holes anymore.

For bottomless holes, another insertion method is putting a plug inside the tunnel and push the whole, not-collapsible Pig-Hole Popper into the hopefully well poppered bottom. You can adjust the intensity by your choice of plug: The softer and more rounded the plug, the easier will go in (for this I recommend a Topped Toys Gape Keeper [link to review] or SquarePeg Egg Plug in soft [link to review]). If you like it HARD, choose a firm Egg Plug (link to review) and/ or a plug the fills and stretched the inside of the barrel completely like the SquarePeg Acorn (link to review) or Organotoy Sit-Plug (link to review). If you grab the bottom of the Pig-Hole Popper and the stuffing plug, you can fuck the bottom with the texture and torment his sphincter and prostate by turning the combo inside his rectum. This is an intense ride but fun for texture junkies (like me).

Openings of the Pig-Hole Popper compared to old Pig-Holes

The bumps’ “texture” and larger diameter lock the Poppers quite well into the hole even when lubed handsomely. During the testing period accidentally shooting out the Pig-Hole Popper did not happen. So if you have an issue with your anus ejecting Pig-Holes, give the Poppers a try. From this angle the Big Gaper starts to make sense. My – to be frank quite greedy and experienced – testees were looking at this size a bit puzzled: Why introduce the Popper bumps onto a small toy? It is made for people not so anally experienced yet who for example want to turn their rectum into a free for urinal but fear that the trough might fall out. To learn what the different kinds of Pig-Holes are for, read my review of the Original Pig-Hole Range, the Pig-Hole Morph, the Pig-Hole FF and the Pig-Hole Deep (and yes, I am aware that I still have to review the Pig-Hole Squeal).

Bases of the Pig-Hole Popper compared to old Pig-Holes

Finally, let’s get down & dirty for some important pieces of sewer play advice. If you are faint of heart, stop reading here. From reader questions I know that quite a few of you like to play dirty with the Pig-Holes. Especially diaper peers and guys who want to surrender control completely enjoy the gaping powers of the toy. However, silicone takes on smell easily. The softer, the quicker. The longer the toy is exposed to the smell-carrying substance, the “deeper” the smell sinks into the toy. So superficial cleaning with disodorizing or sanitizing agents will not help. The good news is, the smell will fade over time. But if you have play partners who are picky about certain scents, you might want to get two Pig-Holes: One for dirty, one for clean play.

Where to buy?

You can get the Pig-Hole Popper directly at Oxballs. The Big Gaper is $99, the Tall is $159 and finally the Jumbo Gaper is $189 which is probably going to be the most popular.

VAST Breathing System – The Basis

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Vendor: VAST

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

Some components of the VAST Breathing System

For years I have been asked to review breath play toys and I refused! I deemed breath play too dangerous to make people curious to try it out, especially on the own. However, the VAST Breathing System makes breath play more controllable that I decided to review it.

Controllable does NOT mean less dangerous! Breath play is always hardcore edge play and should NEVER BE DONE ALONE! Regardless of how much you think you have thought it out and how easy breath play get with this system, never do it alone.

As a disclaimer, I have been involved in the design of the design of this system early on. Most of the elements I am basing this review on are pre-production samples on which I have been giving feedback. Except minor alterations, they represent the products you would get if you ordered elements of the system. Most of my feedback went towards adding new elements (for example the screw-in one direction valve). While I try to stay as neutral as possible when writing about this system, please always keep in mind that the feedback of my testees and me has already been taken into consideration and thus my view might be a bit more positive as it would have otherwise has been. But as always I try to describe in depth what the system can do so you decide if it is useful for your play or not.

The Medical Mask Connected to the Rebreather

This being a system of toys, I decided to split this review in at least two parts: This will cover the basic elements and in a follow up in a few weeks I talk about fun but not necessary additions.

All that being said, let’s dive into the fun.

Construction

All elements of the VAST Breathing System are 3D printed. For the first prototypes they used a dark blue polymer because it was sturdier.  They have now found a black one with equal properties so you should get all black toys with the typical silky-rough surface of a 3D printed object. This manufacturing process also explained the price: Especially the larger items take hours to print and require a lot of polymer. Due to the small numbers these toys will be made cheaper manufacturing methods like die casting is not an alternative. So like with many kink toys you have the pay a premium for premium quality toy.

The S10 Upgrade Kit

Being 3D printed, all elements fit perfectly into each other and are air-tight. The air seal is supported by the silicone grease which also makes all parts move smoothly. Every moving part comes with a little jar just in case you need to relubricate. Do not use oil based lubrication for these toys! Oil and grease will damage and destroy rubber and latex! Since the gas masks, hoses and rebreathing bags for breath play are made out of rubber, you will harm these elements permanently.

The bigger parts and sets come in nicely finished and heat-embossed wooden containers. For easy storage of the individual pieces are housed in foam skips.

The Head Gear

The system is build around the NATO GM40 standard with a 40mm thread. In order to function properly, it needs a separate in and out. This means, it does NOT work with the popular Russian gas mask (though I think they are working on something) or the German one combined with a GM40 adaptor. With some 3D printed modifications it could probably work with the new British GSR. The system was primarily designed to work with the popular British Avon S10 or Avon FM12 gas mask. If you don’t have one of these gas masks, VAST sometimes sells them. But post-Brexit they have been very difficult to get.

The S10 Exhale Valve

In order to make these gas masks ready for play, you need to take the speech membrane out of the right port and on the S10 replace the left one with the Exhale Valve (49.90€). I have gotten this valve along with S10 Upgrade Kit (239€). This kit includes not only a stainless steel tool for – hopefully – easy conversion and the Exhale Valve but also a replacement for the front insert with a screw off middle part. Instead of the middle part you can put in different tunnels with diameters of 40mm, 45mm and 50mm or holders for the Fleshlight Classic and Fleshlight GO. This kit has been sitting around my playroom for a couple of months now but I have not used it yet.  As written above, the S10 and FM12 have been very hard to get and gotten very expensive. So I have not had it in my heart to transform one of two S10 I have gotten using the kit. As soon as I have gotten my hand on another S10/FM12 I will document the transformation process and link the article here. If you every wanted to facefuck you breath controlled, gas masked bottom or turn him into a human Fleshlight, this is the way to go!

The Prototype of the Screw-In One-Way Valve

Partly why I was hesitant to modify one of my gas masks was that I already turned my FM12 into a BC one by taking the membranes out on both sides and sealed the exhale vent in the middle. However, in order for the VAST Breathing System to work, one port must be one-way. So I recommended to create a GM40 screw-in one-way valve. In the first prototype I used for this review, the valve was integrated into a gas mask hose. The last prototype was as originally suggested by me an element to be screwed between the gas mask and any hose. It is not on the website yet and I don’t know the price yet. I will update this review as soon as it is online. In the meantime, write them an e-mail. This screw-in valve of course makes every GM40 two-port breath control rubber hood (from Studio Gum for example) compatible with this system.

The Medical Mask with the Mask Splitter to seperate the In- and Exhale

If a gas mask is too much for you, you rather wear a different hood or a blindfold instead of a gas mask or want something handy to press manually onto your sub’s face, the Medical Mask (19.95€) is the way to go. It needs to be combines with the Mask Splitter (99€) which adds two GM40 ports each one-way valved to the Medical Mask. To fix the medical mask to the head, VAST developed a Head Harness (69.50€) out of the extra strong Superior Latex. The straps are long enough to accommodate even big heads. Since Superior Latex is soft and smooth like garment latex, there is little pressure on the head and you can lie on it comfortably. The buckles are small so if you lie on your side, they are noticeable but not really uncomfortable.

Being a sensual player, this is the combination I use most with the breathing system. It allows me to look into my sub’s eyes unobstructed while caressing his head or nibbling on his ears. A friend of mine is really into sleek and slick rubber drone play. He preferred the medical mask too because it was the smallest addition to the flowing lines of the seamless black rubber cocoon his subs wear.

Detail of the Labeling on the Rebreather

The Rebreather (189€)

This is the main element of the Breathing System and game changer in breath play for me!

It is a 47mm tall can with a diameter of about 100mm. In the middle sits a big, remarkable smooth-turning switch which can be gripped and operated easily even when wearing thick gloves.  Into the tin’s rim the words “intern” and “extern” are printed. Around the tin five female GM40 ports are located. Each port is also labeled on top.

Setting up the Rebreather is quite intuitive: Connect the GM40 port labeled “Breath In” with the gas mask port for breathing in, the port labeled “Breath Out” with the corresponding mask port. In order for the system to work, the airflow passing through the mask must be uni-directional! Because of this, a one-ways valve on the breathing out is essential! Finally, attach a re-breathing bag to the aptly named “Bag” port and you are ready to go.

When your sub inhales for the first time, the switch should be turned to “extern” so he draws in fresh air. Before he starts to exhale, switch to internal. Now his breath is caught in the bag and he draws his air from there. Once he needs fresh air, simple turn the switch again to “extern”, the air goes out through the port “Air Out” and fresh comes in through “Air In”.

That’s it! Very anti-climactic and simple. But that’s the beauty of this system. In the past breath play involved manually holding shut hoses, pulling off masks or unscrewing bags just in time. Timing these time-taking actions just right that there were hot enough to kick the sub’s head but timely enough to avoid panic or even worse accidents was a skill which took very long to learn. And put clumsy people like me off breath play. Now getting the sub that sweet, sweet fresh air is just a switch turn away. It makes breath play more controllable and thus safer. Let me iterate here again that this doesn’t mean you can play with the system on your own! It just makes breath play easier so the top can focus more on doing fun things to his sub.

The Wide Range of Male/Male Hoses

Since the system is built around GM40 female ports, you need hoses with male connectors on both sides. For those who have built their breath play toy bag around professional anesthetic gear, VAST made a GM40 connector (18,90€) for those hoses.  Very rarely you can find GM40 male/male hoses in military surplus stores – most hoses are male/female. If you don’t have any male/ male, VAST sells those hoses. The nice thing about those is that the connector is disconnected from the hose end in a screwcap style. So when you turn connect the elements you just have to turn the screw and not the object the port is connected to.  This makes the relatively steep price somewhat justifiable. Another advantage of these hoses is that unlike the surpluses hoses which usually have the standard length of 45cm they come in length from 10cm to 105cm.

This is nifty because one disadvantage of the system is that the elements are bulky and heavy and adding a lot of long hoses doesn’t help (especially once you start incorporating other fun elements which I will talk about in a few weeks). So using short hoses keeps the entire setup at least somewhat compact. And from a certain point on it also becomes a safety issue. Depending on the lung capacity and strength, the sub’s draft can become too weak to pull fresh air through the tubes. So in order to stay safe, I recommend staying below 150cm total length between the point where fresh air enters and the sub’s mouth.

Detail of the Capsule Injector

In order to work properly, a breathing bag needs to be attached to the port labeled “bag”. You can use professional breathing bags together with the GM40 adaptor I mentioned in the section about hoses. Some kink stores also sell breath bags with a male GM40 port attached already. Depending on sub’s size and which sports he does, the average lung capacity is between 2l and 4l (extremely sporty guys or divers manage up to 8l…).

For more elaborate play VAST developed the Capsule Injector (119€). It is a 6l breathing bag with a male GM40 connector. Once attached to the “Bag” port, it works like a standard breathing bag.  Between the connector and the bag sits aluminum cartridge holder for standard kitchen use N2O capsules. In order to introduce the gas into the system, turn the switch on the Rebreather to “extern”, put the capsule in to the cartridge holder screw it tightly so the gas fills the bag (one capsule is about 6l so the bag inflates almost completely). Once the sub has exhaled, turn the switch to “intern” and let him rebreathe the agent. Since N2O is only slowly absorbed and thus needs to be rebreathed, this is a very elegant and sophisticated method compared to the other ways the gas is usually inhaled and rebreathed.

One of the Shut Off GM40 Ports

Very long story short, the concept behind the breathing system is a simple one: Using a switch to change fresh air to rebreathing. And a few gear enthusiasts have built elaborate breath play setup in their playrooms. But they are mostly stationary and not easy to rebuilt by unskilled and/ or unhandy people. So as far as I know the VAST Breathing System is the first portable, easy and more importantly safe to use breath play system. As a clumsy person I never felt comfortable to top breath play even though I knew the science behind it and theoretically have the skills. With the Rebreather and the accompanying toys I feel safe enough to do more breathe play as a top.

This review only covers the basis of the breathing system. It includes many different tools for forced poppers huffing, breathing the smell of piss or used socks and underwear, rebreathing the breath of a fellow sub. I will take a look at these toys in a review in a few weeks.

Conclusion: Innovative special purpose restraint with practical shortcoming.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Safe to use even in extreme scenes A bit bulky & heavy VAST
High price
Very easy to use Does not work on one-port gasmasks (S10 can be converted)
Many different add-ons for elaborate setups

Survey of the Cosmos Pegasi & Solaris

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Form: Fantasy Plugs
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: Elaborate Marbles
Firmness: Ultra Soft, Soft & Firm
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: ElyX Toys

In the six years that I have been reviewing anal toys I have reviewed some huge toys. But for some readers the BIG size options of the toys I have reviewed were not large enough. So toys with ElyX I am following your request to take a look at some of the most MASSIVE toys on the market.

The ElyX Toy Solaris & Pegasi

Construction

Among my testees there was some discussion in which form category these toys belong but despite the length we settled for plugs despite the length these toys can get in larger sizes. In the end, you buy an ElyX toy to get stretched and fill full which made us lean a bit toward plug instead of (knotted) dildo.

ElyX only makes toys out of platinum silicone so they are 100% body safe and easy to clean. Though you must not use them with silicone lube because it will disintegrate the material. Making some of the biggest insertable toys on the planet is also reflected in the firmness option. Unlike other companies ElyX starts with toys in Shore 00-20 which is extremely squishy but also delicate. These toys are extremely prone for creases. They have to be stored upright and other toys must not lay on them in a used-toy bucket. Other firmness options are the common soft Shore 00-30 and the medium firm Shore 00-50.

The Vac-U-Lock and Suction Cup

All toys can be equipped with a Vac-U-Lock hole or a deep suction cup. The Vac-U-Lock is great if you are playing with a partner because you can attach a handle or he can push his finger in the hole to guide the toy. The smaller versions of the toy will work on a fuck machine. The larger one are too heavy for the rods. The deep suction cup surprised me! It is so deep and thus strong that even large toys stick to the wall. So if this is your kind of solo play style, I highly recommend it.

One of the nice properties of platinum silicone how well it takes on color and effects like UV activity or glow in the dark. The creative mind behind ElyX toys on a regular basis creates new patterns, marbles and combinations. So I recommend checking out his Twitter feed for inspiration or approach him with your own ideas.

Pegasi’s Tip

Pegasi starts out with two flattish bulbs that for the tip. The taper towards a short neck which forms into a shallow ridge on the front and the back. Left and right of these ridges are massive bulbs. Below them runs a ridge around the toy. The neck is also textured with two ridges before ending in a wide base.

While Pegasi has big yet smooth flowing texture, Solaris plays a different game. Across the top of the tip run two parallel ridges which end in what could be considered a glans rim. Left and right of the ridges are small bumps. The back of the shaft is textured by two horizontal ridges while the front features a pair of converging vertical ridges. These ridges run all the way to the base and up again until just below the horizontal ones. The encapsulate two bumps, the lower ones so large, they could be called a knot. The neck above the base is quite short but the texture will still keep the toy locked in your hole.

 

The Double Bumps Surrounded by the Ridge

Playing with Pegasi & Solaris

First things first: I have promised you BIG toys and when you look at the pics, you will probably say “They are big but not that massive.” In order for (most of) my testees and me to play with them, I chose “sensible” sizes. But you can get both toys like all ElyX toys in super-sizes. Though when they go large they also go long. So keep in mind that the texture that first tantalizes your rectum will eventually (over) stimulate your sensitive second sphincter.

Solaris‘ Tip

Despite my toys being the smaller sizes of the range, they are not for beginners. You need a trained (as in fistable!) and pre-stretched hole to really enjoy the toys.  Due to the dull tip and high level of texture, they will not gradually open up your hole or slide in easily. So if a stretching toy like the SP Egg, the OT Sit-Plug or the TT Gape Keeper fits, it is unlikely that similarly sized ElyX toy will fit.

The Pegasi is a bit more for “beginner” or people looking for a smooth sensation ride. The different textures and stretching points are stacked on top of each other so you can enjoy them individually. Solaris on the other hand is a bit chaotic with lateral bulbs next to ridges and textures being all over the place. So Solaris unleashes his full potential best in the hands of a skilled top who twists and turns the toy inside the hole. It takes some learning but once you figured the toy out, you can purposely create a bit of stimulus overload when one texture is scratching the prostate while the anus is stimulated differently. When you ride the toys, the textures are a bit all over the place.

Pegasi’s Ridges

Pegasi is made for riding! The two lateral bulges deliver a great stretching sensation. Once you go deeper, the first ridge is perfect for prostate humping/ massaging while the lower two ridges stimulate the anus. But also in the hands of a top, it reveals some hidden qualities. The bulgey tip is perfect for prostate stimulation and turning the knotty bulges inside the anus makes a great stretch sensation.

Where to buy?

You can buy all toys through ElyX’s Etsy store. There are not always all sizes and colors available. If you are interested in something particular, drop him a message.

Bastinado Special Restraints

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Bastinado Special Restraints

Vendor: McHurt

Construction

The Bastinado Special Restraints are two ankle cuffs connected in the middle by sturdy stitching. Due to using stitching instead of a rivet they cannot twist. The leather of the cuff is not padded and 50mm wide. The cuffs feature an incredible ankle size range between 16cm and 28cm circumference. So they fit equally on petit ladies and big bulls. For easy handling the cuffs are closed using a roller buckle which is covered by a leather tongue so the metal does not press into the skin. Between the cuffs a 25mm wide and 26cm long belt is securely sown.

The toy comes with another connected cuff with 20mm wide leather straps closed by roller buckles. This small restraint is made for fettering the big toes together. Again, at a circumference range between 5cm and 11cm it should fit most feet. Unlike its big brother there is no belt between the cuffs.

Comparison of the Edge Finish of the Two Parts

McHurt is famous for basic yet heavy duty BDSM toys. They source their toys in Europe so no problem with Chrome-6 leather like from cheap Asian mass manufacturer or sloppy stitching. But the leather is initially stiffer than I would expect it to be and the inside of the ankle cuffs is lined with sued which edges have not been finished. That McHurt’s supplier is capable of a higher level of refinement is shown on the toe cuff which has perfectly finished edges – except for the leather tongue which underlines the buckles. All things consider at 49.80€ you get great value for your money! But just don’t expect the level of refinement you get at Mr S or Regulation/ Fetters.

Detail of the Roller Buckle

Playing with the Bastinado Special Restraints

Hitting the soles of the feet has many names: Bastinado, falaka, dǎ jiǎoxīn or foot whipping. It has an equally long tradition in Arabian, Asian and Western punishment culture. However, if you are not good with ropes, it is hard secure the feet in a way that they don’t flinch so you can deliver the blows precisely. As their name indicates, the Bastinado Special Restraints were designed just for that.

The Sued on the Inside of the Ankle Cuffs

The big cuffs are for tying the feet of the bottom together. The wide leather is perfect for distributing the strong force legs can exert evenly on the ankle so they are comfortable yet secure. Since the restraint has not padding or body but the belt is the restraint, there is little wiggle room. So with the feet tied next to each other, the soles form an even and parallel impact surface. This is basis for controlled and evenly hit impact play. But beyond this job well done, it gets a bit difficult.

The lacking level of refinement sadly also shows how cutting corners impairs the functionality of this toy. The strap between the cuffs is supposed for tying the ankle cuffs to a bar some (!) beds have as a design feature at the foot end. Most of these bars are purely ornamental so not really made for detaining struggling feet. But even if I ignore the scarcity of this design element and its common fragility – even though it is necessary for these cuffs to properly work! – the belt position doesn’t make sense! You have to twist it 90° in order tie it to a bar running perpendicularly to the cuffs. Of course, attaching it between the cuffs is cheap and still it somehow does the trick, but it is another example of lacking refinement and cutting corners due to cost.

The Inside of the Toe Cuffs

There is a similar issue on the toe cuffs. They keep the toes securely together to form an even impact area. But the bottom can still move his feet backwards and forwards. A small D-ring for attaching a tension strap to keep them from wiggling would have been great!

Do these issues make the Bastinado Special Restraints a bad toy? No! As already written, they are great value for money. You just need to invest a little bit of thinking and effort to work out the kinks.

  1. If you don’t have a bar to attach the restraints to, run tension straps though the roller buckles and laterally fetter the cuffs to the bed frame. Don’t use the rectangular gates as attachment points! They are not welded and will bend open (replacing them with welded D-rings [or welded gates like on the Rubstraints] would be the best solution tbh).
  2. You can use a big shackle as an improvised attachment point. If the thick metal wire is a bit uncomfortable for the bottom, a narrow and soft tape sling tied in a bowline also does the trick. I have tried carabineers but they tend to turn and slip, making it more uncomfortable.

An Improvised Attachment Point for the Toe Cuffs

I cannot review this toy without talking about impact play on the feet itself. Like the hand, the foot has many delicate bones which easily shatter. There is fat tissue and almost no thick muscle tissue to dampen the kinetic energy of the impact blow. So don’t let yourself be fooled by movies where people use thick bamboo canes to punish a guy! Instead use riding crops, thin canes with medium blow intensity, floggers of strap out of not too stiff leather or padded paddles. You can also flick wooden, delrin or aluminum blades but no full blows. The danger of inflicting permanent damage is too high.

Of course, with the feet kept in place, they are in a perfect spot for having wax poured on them. Or playing with a Wartenberg wheel. Or prick soles on combination with a rolling pin. Or e-stim. There are many safe options out there to torment the soles. Just don’t be over enthusiastic when it comes to actual bastinado 😉

Conclusion: Innovative special purpose restraint with practical shortcoming.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique design Attachment solution of the ankle cuffs is only hypothetical McHurt 49.80€
Can be used on wide range of body types
Good value for money Toe restraints have not attachment point
No d-rings
Unsophisticated manufacturing

Unboxing Additional Components of the VAST Breathing System

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Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

In June I unboxed my MASSIVE order of the VAST Breathing System. It is a cool system, but did not really work with my already modified FM12. Way back in 2015 I modified my gasmask to allow rebreathing with two bags so air flows in and out through both sockets. So I asked the guys at VAST if they could develop a screw-in one-way valve – and along the process ordered some other new stuff from their line.

So this is my highlight of the order: A hose with an integrated one-way valve!

This way I can finally use my already modified gasmask with the breather system. Of course, I could have used the Upgrade Kit for AVON respirators but at the moment I am still having a hard time “sacrificing” one of my few, valuable S10 or FM12 to modify them so heavily.

Second highlight is the Switch. As the name says, it is an easy to turn switch between two air intakes. This is a really useful addition because now I can quickly switch between clean air or forced sniffing/ bubbling/ air reduction.

Like all larger elements of the Breathing systems it comes in a cool wooden box with foam cut-outs for easy storage. Included is silicone grease to keep the mechanic smooth and plastic care. Speaking of plastic, this is from the “new”, final production run which comes in dark, matt plastic instead of the blue one my early adopter parts were made out.

There are also two new sniffing or poppers toy out there. The larger one is the Vaporizer. Like the name implies, it is like the Vaporizer with Switch just without the switch. With this toy you are forced to sniff the odor continuously. The container is large enough to hold a jockstrap or dirty sock too.

The smaller one called Inhaler features an interesting design of air inlet and diffusion holes below a GM40 thread. It can be easily attached to any gas mask with 40mm thread but the short tube is also perfect for sticking your nose in for easy, low risk inhaling. The perfect combination in my opinion is attaching it to the Medical Face Mask with a Mask Splitter. Just push it into your (or your bottom’s) face and the person below will only inhale the vaporizing fumes from the container.

The last items are “housekeeping”: For very complex setups I needed an additional T– and Y-splitter. And hoses! You cannot have enough hoses when playing with this system. Currently I am still in the middle of the reviewing process and I am not sure you need more of shorter or longer hoses. But with hoses in 42cm, 38cm, 30cm, 26cm, 21cm, 20cm, 18cm, 14cm and 9.5cm lengths you should be covered regardless how you play.

The review will probably follow in the second half of September. So watch this space when you are interested in this kind of play.

Superior Latex Restraints (& Harnesses)

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The VAST Superior Latex Bondage Gear

Vendor: VAST

Construction

These restraints are standard cuff-style restraints. The body is 69mm wide and slightly convex. The wrist restraint body it is 220mm long, the ankle one is 320mm. Onto the body a 40mm wide belt is attached using four pairs of rivets. When the restraints are lying down, the belt bends slightly upwards. This is the “extra length” needed to comfortably wrap the restraints around the sub’s body. Between two rivet pairs a D-ring is housed. On the left side the belt ends in a roller buckle, on the other side it tapers for easy threading.

There are seven holes with 10mm spacing between the centers. The material and bonding is so strong and perfect, these restraints do not need the belt hole reinforcement rivets common on other pieces of rubber restraints (which are a pain in the ass when bending or falling out). The first hole is 75mm away from the belt tip. Due to this even in the largest setting, the belt tip goes fully through the belt loop.

For extra security you can order the restraints with a locking pin for an additional 20€. These restraints come with a two locks which look nice but can be picked with a paperclip. As always I recommend investing keyed alike, non-bras (!) locks like from ABUS or Master for your play.

The Wrist and Ankle Restraints with the Anatomically Curvature

As the name of the toy already indicates, it is made out of latex. Unlike other rubber restraints which rely on thick and stiff industrial rubber, VAST’s Superior Latex is made out of two layers of 0.8mm thick soft and smooth garment latex glued on top of a strap of aramid. So the material combines the softness of thin latex usually used to make fetish wear with the high strength of aramid. Being made out of standard 4D latex the restraints smell SO good and delicious like rubber gear shoud!

All trim like rivets, buckles, D-rings or the locking pin are made out of stainless steel. This is important because stainless steel is the only metal (well, except platinum, gold or aluminum…) which does not chemically react with rubber. This reaction, commonly called “latex cancers” makes the material soft and gooey and ultimately over time will make the material tear. Because all trim is made out of stainless steel, the restraints will withstand heavy use for many years. Stainless steel is also important because due to the design, the rivets touch the skin. Other materials could cause allergies but with stainless steel you are 99.9% safe.

Detail of the Logo and Stitching Laser Engraving

The restraints can be ordered in a wide range of different designs. The most simple is of course a single color followed by different colors on the outside and the inside or a different colored strap. There are two strip options: Either a thick stripe in the middle, slightly bigger than the belt holes or the thin stripe running 10mm inside around the belt (the option I chose for my restraints). Colorwise you can choose from the 4D Rubber range of 80 different shades to match your other gear or show your fetish by choosing a hanky color. Of course, they don’t have all colors in stock but can order them.

A nice design touch is a laser-engraved band of small lines which runs around every pieces of rubber, even the belt loop. This creates the look of stitching. Despite not adding anything functional to the restrains, it is a great design feature that adds to the overall high quality look and appeal of the restraints. Since they do the laser-engraving themselves you can customize the gear with your own tests, logos, etc..

These many customizing options mean of course that there is little to no stock. When friends ordered their harnesses and restraints it took about two weeks for their set to me made. So like with all (custom) rubber gear, plan a little bit ahead when you want it for a specific event like Folsom for example. If you want a combination or customization that’s not on your website, send them an e-mail.

Detail of the D-ring

Playing with the Superior Latex Restraints

Being standard cuff-style restraints, they are a good basis for almost every non-rope bondage layout. They are easy to handle and fetter the sub securely. You can really tell that they have been designed by perverts for perverts. With two D-rings you can easily brace the restraints in an elaborate rope or tension strap layout. The slightly convex design of the restraint body hugs the joint anatomically correct. The tapered tip of the belt makes threading it through the roller buckle and the belt loop quick and easy.

So far, they behave like every other leather and rubber restraint I have reviewed on this website. But due to being made out of soft latex they are the most flexible and tightest closable restraints in my collection. Since two layers of 0.8mm thick latex are glued together they have just the right level of stiffness to not flap or wobble around. The edges are not deburred but straight cut. Unlike with thick industrial rubber this is not a problem. None of my testees and friends who have been using Superior Latex gear for quite some time now encountered chafing on the skin or scratches on rubber gear from these restraints. Even when the sub is struggling hard, the restraints are detaining him without digging into the flesh. All things considered, they are comfortable and secure over extended periods of time.

The Tapered Tip of the Belt Threaded through The Belt Loop

Speaking of struggling hard, the restraints can take a beating. I have fettered subs who are notorious for trashing bondage gear in them and they still look like new. To really test them, I attached my suspension harness to them and put a sub in it. Another top friend incorporated them into a suspension bondage layout.  These are borderline cases and you should at least try the latter two not at home if you are not very versed in suspension bondage. But these little experiments show how strong these restraints really are.

The friends who have ordered these restraints all bought the locking versions. Once locked around the wrist and ankles of a full rubber gimp, he cannot take his gear off anymore and is encapsulated in his rubber prison. While this of course can also be done with locking leather restraints, being made out of shiny latex they do not obstruct the sleek, polished look of a rubber gimp but blend into it. When I got mine, the locking option was not available yet so my restraints are not lockable (early adopter problem). But since the premium is so little, I would always recommend getting to lockable version!

The Roller Buckle

Being made out of latex, this bondage gear requires the same care as every piece of rubber gear. Rubber is easily damaged by oils like in perfume and fat. So do not expose this gear to Crisco for example. Since human skin has a slight layer of oils and fat, you need to wash the restraints after putting them on bare skin (that being said, full rubber gimps with gloves do not have to do this ;)). I recommend special rubber detergent like VAST’s Wonder Wash for this but you can also use dish soap as long as it is not moisturizing or scented! Afterwards let it dry to avoid mold and treat it with silicone oil to care for the material and make it shiny. The gear should be stored in a dark, not too hot place.

Currently, these restraints are only available for neck, wrists and ankles. Hopefully in the (near) future the product range will be extended at least to biceps and thigh restraints (and maybe a fashionable thin biceps strap with small effect D-rings because even the smoothest of upper arm restraints is constraining when punch fisting someone…).

The Bulldog Harness on me

Superior Latex Harnesses

There is however a product category which borders restraints: Harnesses. If you have been following this website for some time, you know that I do not recommend fetish gear/ wear because which cut & fit turns somebody on is highly individual. However, I am going to make an exception here. Especially since a harness is only half fetish fashion accessory, half handle a top can grab to pull a sub towards him or hold onto while railing a bottom HARD.

For years I have been looking for a rubber bulldog harness. Since latex and rubber are fragile materials, none of the options available spoke to me. But I also do not like to mix leather and rubber, so wearing one of my leather ones wasn’t an option. Luckily VAST also makes three different harness designs in their Superior rubber: A classic bulldog (my favorite), a pet walking harness with a BIG d-ring for attaching a leash on the back and finally a Y-harness, perfect for attaching pieces of the Breather system to it or with a bit of rope (or tensions straps) to tie a torso down.

As I have written, style and fit preferences are highly individual. But if you are in the market for a heavy duty, intense play withstanding rubber harness, give them a try (on)!

Personally, I was surprised how well both bulldog and Y-harness looked on my body. When I have bought my first leather harness, I tried eight different ones before finding one that looked good on me…

Conclusion: Strongest, most flexible and customizable rubber bondage gear on the market.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Extremely strong yet comfortable to wear Limited range of restraints (for the moment) Wrist Restraints Starting at 119€
Ankle Restraints Starting at 124€
2 D-rings Collar Starting at 89€
High level of customizability Bulldog Harness Starting at 199€
Sleek design Y-Harness Starting at 199€
Pet Walking Harness Starting at 269€

Mako & Tiger Agitation Collar

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The 3“ Agitation Collar from Mako & Tiger

Sometimes I get the question if I knew toys to really HANDLE a sub. Especially in the aggro and prison play scene there is a demand for toys to grab the bottom/ brat/ resisting switcher or top and drag him to his knees, the dick or hold him down while destroying his ass. For this kind of scenes even a short leash will not do it because it has too much slack. There used to be a few gags with a grip in front but teeth are surprisingly frailer than you might expect. So they weren’t the best idea.

Collars with a handle have long been popular in dog training but to my surprise have not been adopted wildly into the kink world. One model that comes with high praise from friends but I have not yet had a chance to try out myself is the Agitation Collar from Mako & Tiger. When I studied in the USA some 9 years ago I had the pleasure of meeting Mako. He’s a heavy (bondage) player and thus knows how high quality gear needs to be designed for heavy scenes.

The Agitation Collars can be Locked using a Pad or a Segufix Lock

The body of this collar is made out of thick and sturdy bridle leather. Depending on the version it is either 50mm or 75mm tall. The latter can probably double a bit as a posture collar. The inside is lined with padding wrapped in soft garment leather for a comfortable fit. For quick and easy shackling the collar is adjusted and closed with a roller buckle. For secure collaring this piece of neck gear can be locked and comes with a Segufix option.

But the piece de resistance is the wide handle in the back of the collar. It is made out of the same bridle leather but friends who have been using this collar for quite some time now told me that is it treated with mink oil and thus comfortable to hold onto. My friends also tell me that the draft is distributed evenly even when tugging on the collar with force. The same should also apply when a leash is attached to the big d-ring which is laterally placed below the handle.

The Handle and D-Ring on the 3“ Agitation Collar

These are big claims which I look forward to test in a review in some point in time. This curiosity especially applies to the fact that there are no rivets used to construct this collar. Everything is “just” sown together which if done well is sufficient. I have already a heavily resisting bottom in mind to try this gear out on.

But for the moment I trust the recommendation I get from experienced, heavy duty players I have known for years. So when you are in the market for a strong, heavy duty collar with a grip to handle your sub, check out the Agitation Collar from Mako & Tiger. At $350 for the 2’’ version and $450 for the 3’’ version they are not inexpensive but from what I have been told worth every cent as gear that will last you for years of heavy play.

Cross Body Bondage Harness

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The Mr S Cross Body Bondage Harness

Vendor: Mr S Leather

This piece of gear is (probably) the final evolution of Mr S’ journey to see how much they can take away from a straight jacket and still acchieve stron fettering: They started out with a tradition straightjacket than came the Vector Bondage Sleeves and now we have ended with the Cross Body Bondage Harness. Let’s see if it performs as exceptional well as it’s bigger, bulkier brothers.

Construction

The core of this restraint are two welded, stainless steel o-rings connected by a short, sturdy strap of welded bridle leather. Onto each or-ring a 25mm wide and 60cm long bridle leather belt is riveted. They are closed using a roller buckle and the holes are punched from the tip down 37cm with 25mm spacing.

There is another 35cm long strap connected to each o-ring. Onto it a bondage mitt made out of soft yet thick, unlined garment leather is rivets. The mitts are large enough even for large paws. Subs up to glove size 13 have worn these comfortable in my playroom. The mitts are closed with yet another leather belt with a roller buckle and a locking pin. Sadly it does not come with locks. You need a standard 3mm wire strength lock this toy. A the plus side, it does not only house one but two d-rings.

The leather is the same as on all of the other Mr S bondage gear I have: Thick garment leather for the bodies and latigo leather for the straps. While the garment leather is the same as on every other toy that I own, the latigo was surprisingly stiff. Compared to other brands it is still quite soft and the edges are not firm or let alone sharp. But the straps are not as soft out of the box as on other toys from Mr S. Two things to consider: First, leather is a natural material and maybe the one strap my toy was made out of was stiffer. So there is a good chance a different toy will feel different.  Second, this did not mean that my toy was not usable right away. The straps were still softer and more flexible than from many other, high quality leather manufacturer. They just took longer to break in. If you have this toy, please let me know how your straps were out of the box.

The Mitt Part of the Cross Body Bondage Harness

Playing with the Cross Body Bondage Harness

First, let’s see how you can put these restraints on because this greatly influences the experience a lot.

As the name indicates, this is a body restraint: You place the o-ring connecting strap between the shoulder blades and put the mitts left and right of the neck to the front. First, put the left hand into the right mitt and the right hand into the left mitt. Leaving it just this way is the most comfortable way. To limit the movement more threat the belt through the corresponding D-ring on the mitt to tighten. For extra less leeway, thread the belt through both d-rings. For extra, straitjacket-like tightness, include the biceps in the fettering layout.

Especially in the latter setup, the bottom cannot move much. But if you want it tighter (and have additional straps like from other Mr S straitjackets), you can connect both mitts using a belt.  A borderline case for really thin and flexible bottoms is switching the restraint around and crossing the arms behind the back. Except for the most yoga affine twinks this is stress bondage. So do it carefully and ask the sub about his circulation in arms and hands on a regular basis!

The Roller Buckle and Locking Pin

When I first got these restraints, I was a bit skeptical: Do I need yet another body restraint from Mr S? The Vector Bondage Sleeves are perfect for me! They provide the same level of fettering as a straight jacket yet leave most of the body accessible for play. Ok, for travel they are still a bit bulky and the price is steep (yet well worth the money for me!). But what other experience would the Cross Body Bondage Harness offer?

Despite the small footprint they have one offer one of the best feats of straitjackets: The high adjustability of the intensity and feeling. The arms hanging down in front of the body is surprisingly comfortable. Crossing the arms is also a quite natural position and despite the mitts cuffs not being padded, the wrists don’t get tired hanging down. So like a straitjacket, the basic position is comfortable and can be maintained for extended periods of time. But you can easily make the bondage more intense and uncomfortably – just on a straitjacket. Unlike the straitjackets, the Cross Body Bondage Harness is a bit of a one trick pony since the basic position is only the same. But if this position works for you and your sub, this harness is great!

One of the O-Ring with the Three Belts Rivited onto it

This is especially true if you are big gear heads! Even more than with the Vector Straitjacket Sleeves, the Cross Body Bondage Harness covers less of the gear and thus doesn’t add heat – especially useful at events like Pride or Folsom. It also lets you display more of your gear while rendering the sub helpless. A demographic which preferred these restraints over straitjacket (sleeves) were bikers because apparently the arms hanging in a cross before the body is more comfortable in that gear.

Unlike most common straitjackets, these restraints are lockable. The locks are “only” on the mitts. But once the arms are crossed and the mitts are locked, you cannot get them off the subs. So like with every piece of lockable bondage gear, there “click” of the closing lock is a big mindfuck for many subs and hugh turn-on.

Speaking of gear head a common reader question regarding the Cross Body Bondage Harness was how it works with other pieces of bondage gear, especially collars and head gear.  The straps leading to the mitts run far enough left and right of the head and neck not interfere even with bulkier collars like a posture collar or gas masks and (motorcycle) helmets. It also allows good access to the neck to grab and drag the bottom.

The Two D-Rings per Mitt

Regardless if your sub is I heavy gear or you are like me and prefer your sub naked, this piece of bondage gear is good for leaving the lower torso exposed. The sub can easily and comfortably be bent over for getting fucked or spread his legs for getting his balls busted (or have his junk subjected to other forms of CBT). Due to the position of the mitts, the nipples are not really accessible well. The movement of the arms are not restricted enough to keep him from protecting them. A nimble subs can even push nipple clamps off though that process is going to be painful.

Since each mitt features two d-rings, the Cross Body Bondage Harness is somewhat good for tying someone down. With a bit of rope you can more or less effectively tie the upper torso to the bed. But that is not really what this toy is for. However the d-rings are enough and placed well enough to tie your boy to a post or bondage frame in a bar or bound him together with another sub.

Conclusion: The smallest footprint toy possible to get almost straitjacket light fettering.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Strong degree of bondage on small footprint Only one bondage position

Doesn’t come with locks

 Mr S Leather $189.95
Lockable
Two d-rings per mitt

 

Fetters Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

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The Fetters Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

Vendor: Regulation

Sometimes a review takes strange ways until it gets published here. Last week I have gotten a message asking for my opinion in these two toys. Having been using them for years, I wanted to send him the link to the corresponding review. But it turns out: Despite having been using them for years, I have never reviewed them! Let’s fix that!

Both Straps Unrolled

Construction

The design of the Scrotum Strap is quite simple: It is a 355mm long strap of belt leather. The lower 130mm length is 30mm wide, forming the body which then tapers to 220mm long and 15mm wide belt. Through the belt 7 holes with a 15mm center-to-center spacing are punched of which only 5 are usable. Onto the body a locking post and two 13mm wide d-rings under a slap of leather are riveted. Between the locking post and the first d-ring is a slot to thread the belt through. The Scrotum Strap comes with a pad lock.

The Sharp, Undeburred Edge of the Scrotum Strap

The basic design is also reflected in the material and manufacturing: The belt leather is stiff and neither burnished nor deburred. This means the edges are sharp until the leather is well worn in which will take quite a while. Since I rarely use the Scrotum Strap due to having several other toys to choose from, mine is still stiff and a bit sharp. If you want to speed up the breaking in-process, rub a little bit of neatsfoot oil on it and knead the toy while watching TV.

The Weight Anchor Strap borrows the basic design idea of the Scrotum Strap but develops it further. The body of the toy is made out of two layers of soft garment leather. The height depends on which version you get: The one buckle which I have has a 33mm tall body, the two buckle a 56mm tall one. On each side of the body a 180mm long and 14mm wide strap of belt leather is riveted. At the bottom a Ø19mm welded o-ring is riveted.

The Overlapping Body Protects Ball Skin from Getting Caught by the Belt

It is closed around the balls about the same way as the Scrotum Strap. On top of one strap a 240mm long and 14mm wide belt is riveted perpendicularly, while on top of the other a small roller buckle is. The belt goes through a slot inside the body and thus grips around the cuff wrapping around the sack’s neck.

Just like on the previous toy, the manufacturing is a bit basic: The perpendicular edges of the body is just bare cut-off leather without any treatment, the slot is not whipped. Since both toys are basic CBT toys you can overlook these shortcoming but considering the price compared to a set of cuff-style restraints I would have expected more.

Playing with the Scrotum Strap & Weight Anchor Strap

The Padlock to Close the Scrotum Strap

As simple as the design is, it is ingenious: You wrap the body around the sack’s neck, thread the belt end through the slot and tighten it until you reach a snug yet comfortable fit. Then you thread the belt through the d-rings and close the toy by locking it onto the sub.

As long as the leather is not broken in, the adjustment process is cumbersome: Due to the stiffness it takes some adjustment to get it around the balls tightly. Threading it through the d-rings is a nightmare because of the friction. For me, this created a bit of a vicious cycle because I had easier to use toys which I then preferred and thus never broke the Scrotum Strap in.

This is a shame because it is a nifty little toy with much potential. The smallest diameter of it is 24mm, the largest 42mm so it covers a wide range of possible scrotums. As written above due to the position of the locking pin and one of the d-rings you cannot tighten it further than the third to last hole. A friend of mine has been using his Scrotum Strap for half a decade on a regular basis. It is broken in and thus soft. He uses it with some of his slave as a reminder of belonging by simply locking it around the balls for a day or so. Unlike a chastity cage, the Scrotum Strap will not impair any everyday activity but once locked cannot be taken off. So it is a nice, psychological reminder that someone else has control over you when a locked collar, wrist or ankle chain are not an option. If you are a bit of a sadist, locking the Scrotum Strap around your sub’s balls can speed up the breaking in process. The warmth and moisture of the junk in combination with the movement will soften the leather up over time. Until then, it will be uncomfortably to wear and create some abrasions and burns.

A Shackle can be Used to Increase the Capacity of the D-Ring

For more action oriented play, the Scrotum Strap is a secure and tight anchor point on the balls. So in a full body lockdown it can be used to tie even the balls in place. In more mobile settings, I like to connect the ankle restraints to it to restrict the sub’s movement. Of course this also works with wrist restraints but my favorite is connecting the Scrotum Strap with a Handlock for minimal slack wrist-to-ball restraints.

If you want to connect the Scrotum Strap with another restraint bear in mind since the belt is threaded through the d-rings the space between the apex and the belt is only 5mm! While this might be enough for a padlock, if you want to use carabiners use them together with shackles. Another alternative are folded nylon tension straps.

The O-Ring at the Bottom of the Anchor Staps

The Weight Anchor Strap attaches to the body the same ways as the previous toy: Thread the belt through the slot and around the body to the roller buckle. Since there is not friction and the ball cuff’s body is made out of soft leather that easily wraps around the scrotum, this is quite easy. On this toy you can use all the punched holes creating a internal diameter between 27mm and 42mm. If your sub has smaller or less meaty balls, you can punch additional holes to tighten the restraint even further. For meatier balls, you have to just give it a try since the body is very soft and only stiff in the middle where the belt runs around, I managed to put the toys even on bull balls.

The softness in combination with the wide range of adjustability enables a really secure fit that is comfortable over extended periods of time even the tug on the toy is big. As the name of the toy suggests, it is made for weights. Most people use parachutes for this kind of play but they are only good for so much pulling force. If you add a momentum by letting the weight swing, the snap fastener either pops open or a ball slips through the thin ring the parachute creates. This does not happen with the Weight Anchor Strap. Since it comfortably yet securely compresses the ball’s neck, it stays in plays up to weight amounts way beyond which is medically advisable (the maximum amount of weights I have suspended from a sub’s scrotum using this toy were 10+kg. Don’t try this at home!). If you want to use climbing carabiners instead of threading rope or tension straps through the o-ring, you will have create a larger opening using shackles like with the above reviewed toy.

The Anchor Straps‘ Roller Buckle

The straps are riveted to slightly to the body that they don’t move. But they are long enough to allow for a pendulum movement. The movement stops quicker than on more freely hanging chains but the stiffness also transfers more of the kinetic energy onto the balls for an intense tug.

Of course you can also incorporate the Anchor Straps into bondage layouts by connecting them to restraints. But I found that the straps and the o-ring create more slack than the Scrotum Strap. But this is a very minor point of a toy hoarder. If you just have this one, it will perfectly work for tying down the balls or limit the subs movement by connecting either or both ankle and wrist restraints with this ball cuff.

Conclusion: Secure ball cuffs for heavy play
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Secure fit even during hard play Stiff leather which takes long to break-in Regulation £24 (Scrotum Strap)

£30 (one buckle)
£35 (two buckle)
Adjustable to wide range of ball sized Adjusting is a bit cumbersome
Once broken in comfortable to wear over extended periods of time Basic build quality

 

Wine Rack Vertical as Dildo Storage

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Life is what is happening while you make other plans. For the start of the new review seasons, I planned a very different post. But on Friday while cleaning up the playroom I tweeted about a simple new addition: A wine rack to store realistic dildos. This simple, quick & dirty tweet sparked SO much interest, that I decided to write about the apparently topic of interest.

I have bought a wine rack for soft, realistic dildos mostly from SquarePeg. Due to the size and soft firmness, they do not stand up or fall over easily. Lying down they take up a lot of space so I was looking for an ergonomically and economically storage solution which I hope to have found in this wine rack. As you will read it is far from perfect yet until now the best solution I have come up with. If you have a better one, please get in touch!

For

For easy cleaning and to avoid reaction between potential surface treatment of wood for example, I was looking for a plastic wine rack. This particular one is from mDesign and I ordered for 23.99€ off Amazon.de. I chose the light grey over the black one because at roughly 55€ the black was way more than I would spend on such an item. And since I indeed to put it inside a metal IKEA Hyllis shelf, the color actually fit.

Silicone is a very sticky material (flint on toy pics anyone?)! Unlike wine bottles, the dildos will stick to the rack, making rather the rack more than the dildo. Because of this I used zip ties to fix the rack to the shelf. This is far from perfect, does not stop all movement but in the end is sufficient. I briefly considered Velcro ties instead of plastic zip ties but neglected the idea for easier cleaning of plastic ones. There were very fancy and sleek racks out there. But since they do not have even improvised anchor points as my new one has, I did not buy them. Before you chose a rack, make should you have a plan how to connect the rack to the shelf in which it stands.

Especially soft silicone creases easily. Since I have bought this rack primarily for me SquarePeg toys, I accept that due to the weight of the toys and the edges of the rack and the zip ties, they will get creases. Most silicone toys will get creases over time (like when throwing a bunch of them in a bucket during play), but if you want to keep your toys in perfect mint condition this storage solution is not for you. Because of this wine racks made out of bent wire at the front and the back are not suitable! The entire weight of the toy will rest on these two small points which will then dig deep into the material. Also, the toy will slack and stick to the toy below making them impossible to pull out.BeinBeing a wine rack, it is also only a solution for roughly cylindrical toys (aka realist dildos) roughly the diameter of a wine bottle (up to Ø80mm) without too big base that aren’t too long. Just for fun I put a Mr Hankey’s Toys Lampwick Uncut XXL (too long, base blocks slot below), a Bad Dragon Terra XL (knot it too big, base blocks surrounding slots) and a Bad Dragon Austin (knot is too big and to heavy so it has to be balanced not to fall out) inside it and I think you see the problem. This is especially annoying since while Terra stands very sturdily on its base, the first and the last toy can almost only be stored lying down, taking up a lot of space yet are too big for the rack.

The same accounts for plugs! An Oxballs Pig-Hole XXL just fits into the rack; a Pig-Hole FF is too big already. The Topped Toys Gape Keeper fits up to size 100 or the SquarePeg Acorn up to L. But due to the stickyness, it is considerably easier to just store them standing upright in a shelf than storing them vertically in a rack like this one.

This is my wine rack fully stacked with head-heavy realistic dildos. As you can see, the bases overlap making them a bit difficult to pull out. Also, unlike on a shelf the top cannot see the dildo so he has to know which base belongs to which dildo. So this solution is far from perfect! But it is a huge improvement over trying to balance the dildos standing up and a number of them falling out when just grabbing one.

I hope this little review/ guide help you make up your mind what is the most effective and accessible storage for your dildos. Because after all: A toy you cannot reach easily will seldom be used!