A Weekend with Velcro Restraints

Straps of the Standard and Wide Version Compared

Straps of the Standard and Wide Version Compared

Three weeks ago I have spent the weekend in Berlin for the annual BLF Easter event which was a fun time although in unexpected ways. Just in time before packing for Berlin I have gotten two new velcro restraints from HML. I reviewed their first velcro restraint and was quite impressed, After the review was written they incorporated the suggestions I wrote and send me the two new models that came out of this process. So I tried a little experiment: How satisfied would I be with the restraints‘ performance if I only took them with my for the weekend thus being forced to use them?

The answer is: I was surprisingly satisfied. Or to be more precise: I didn’t miss anything yet playing with these restraints meant altering my play style a bit. When fastening roller buckle restraints I tend to pull the closing strap to the maximum in order to give the sub the message that I am in control now and then loosen the restraints that they are comfortable yet tight. This position is mostly a compromise because the space between the holes in the strap specify the raster in how tight you can fasten the restraints. Since you don’t have a buckle to run the velcro strap through there is no fastening effect. But due to the nature of velcro you can adjust the strap in every desired position enabling you to play with the sub’s expectations. I put the wide heavy duty restraints on one sub’s wrists and he really enjoyed the feeling of being bound by a wide strap of solid and soft leather but he waited that the grip of the restraints would decrease which it didn’t because I had already closed the strap. It freaked him out a bit in a good way.

D-Rings of the Standard and Wide Version Compared

D-Rings of the Standard and Wide Version Compared

This easy handling is another thing I have grown fond of. With a bit of training in order to keep the velcro to stick together in a wrong way you can quickly immobilize someone without having to fiddle a strap through a loop. Especially when travelling or packing toys for locations where you can’t walk around with a big bag of toys like the LAB the compact form factor is a nice feature. They are also lighter than restraints of the same size because they have less metal. This might sound like bean counting but if I pack for an event I have to go by plane I am happy for every 100g I can safe.

The Ankle Restraint put into the Heavy Duty Wrist Restraint

The Ankle Restraint put into the Heavy Duty Wrist Restraint

HML also addressed the length problem of the restraints: Along the standard wrist restraints I reviewed last month there is now also a set of ankle restraints available. Since the muscles in the legs are usually stronger than the ones in the arms the velcro strap has to deal with more force. This increased the noises of velcro fighting with the struggling sub but even with a beefy muscle sub they didn’t fail me. Still, if you need more security HML now also makes new heavy duty Velcro restraints from which I could test the wrist restraints. They have twice the amount of velcro with a little bit longer strap than sinlge-strap wrist restraints giving you wider range of circumference. So if your sub has thin ankles you can use them also for fettering the legs for an extra bondage kick. If you want to put them over boots, you have to get the heavy duty ankle restraints. An important thing to keep in mind is that due to the thicker D-ring on the heavy duty restraints the space used for sowing the belt onto the body increases thus the minimum circumference is bigger than on the single-strap version. I have a glove size 7 ½ and while the restraints are not closely fettered onto my wrist they don’t slip over my hand. But for people with really small hands, I recommend the standard wrist restraints. Because naturally I tried out the toys before using them in the field I took all three restraints with me feeling confident that they will perform well when I went out intending to find a sub to top.

Velcro Suspension Restraints

Velcro Suspension Restraints

One thing I have missed in Berlin were hanging restraints. Especially unpadded wrist restraints are uncomfortable when the arms are suspended over the head. HML already makes a set of padded suspension restraints with velcro straps for 149,90€ for these situations which I might review in the future.

Since there is now a set of wrist and ankle restraints out there these restraints will become the second set of everyday restraints I have been looking for quite some time – so I now need to start looking for the third set which locks with a pin.

Long story short: All three velcro restraints I had with me and used extensively during the weekend lived up to the promise to be fully substitutes for unpadded restraints. They will probably become the regular travel restraints for me because especially the non-heavy duty set is small enough to get stores in my toiletry bag.

 

Price overview

Velcro Leather Wrist Restraints 49,90€
Velcro Leather Ankle Restraints 59,90€
Velcro Leather Wrist Restraints Wide 79,90€
Velcro Leather Ankle Restraints Wide 99,90€
Hand Suspension Stirrups 149,90€

 

Mister B Double Faced Hoods

Mister B Doulbe Faced Leather Hood

Mister B Doulbe Faced Leather Hood

After the last two hood suggestions I got some mails asking for a bit more budget friendly suggestion. A hood I really enjoyed playing with but sadly don’t own yet is the Mister B Double Faced Leather Hood. The design is similar to the HML Isolation Hood I featured last week but has open eyes and lacks the ear padding. This makes it good for not so experienced subs who want the leather gimp look and feel but are freaked out by too much isolation.

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Close

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Close

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Opend

Mister B Double Faced Rubber Hood Opend

Being made out of soft leather it can be worn for extended periods of time and is a great piece of gear when being restrained in a sleepsack. And with a price of 199€, it is not too expensive. For a even more budget friendly option Mister B also has a rubber version of the double faced hood for 149€.

Mr S Asylum Gear

The Mr S Asylum Hood fully closed

The Mr S Asylum Hood fully closed

Last weeks’s review featured the Mr S Head Harness with a more airy head gear design. If you are a fan of more isolation or tighter bondage feeling, I recommend looking at the Mr S Asylum Gear.

The design concept are two tightly fitting pieces of leather closing off either the eyes or the mouth of both, leaving you with the choice of turning your sub into a leather gimp, making him a blind mouth whore for easy usage or enjoy the look of fear and anticipation in his eyes while his mouth is covered by soft, high quality leather.

The Mr S Asylum Hood completely open

The Mr S Asylum Hood completely open

The design comes in two varieties: First there is the Asylum Hood. It is a classic leather hood, enclosing the sub’s head fully in leather. The front of the hood has cut outs for the eyes, optional nose holes and a mouth opening which goes around the chin so he can open the mouth wide.

Front of the Mr S Asylum Muzzle

Front of the Mr S Asylum Muzzle

Back of the Mr S Asylum Muzzle

Back of the Mr S Asylum Muzzle

Alternatively there is the muzzle design. It is made out of a piece of leather with a zipper to open and close which is put on the back of the sub’s head and onto which the blindfold or mouth cover is attached to hold it in place. This design is a good compromise between the airyness of a head harness and the full, tight enclosure of a full hood.

The Asylum Muzzle costs $309.95 and the Asylum Hood $439.95.

Uberkinky Rounded Handle Leather Flogger

Vendor: Uberkinky

The guys from Uberkinky send me this flogger from their flogger collection to review and I took it as a welcomed invitation to get some decent flogging action again after a stressful semester.

Construction

The first thing you notice when you unpack this toy is the rich smell of leather. It comes for its 24 tails which are about 55cm long and are angle cut at the end. They are made out of two-tone calf leather. The bottom is made out of soft red suede while the top is a little bit harder black calf hide which for my taste is a bit over-dressed. But this is just a personal taste: If you like a bit more sting let it stay this way. If you enjoy a bit more natural and softer touch just carefully (!!!) use some leather oil on the surface of the tails.

Detail of the Two Color Tails with Angle Cut

Detail of the Two Color Tails with Angle Cut

The tails are attached to the handle by a classical woven leather knot. The handle is made out of stainless steel and is 17cm long from which 12cm are a simple round bar and the last 5cm are an a bit elaborated round tip. Onto this tip a leather loop is riveted.

Playing with it

When I first used this flogger in a scene I was surprised how well it performed for the price: The tails fly really well and due to all the tails having the same length you can hit precisely. With the medium weight this flogger is quite versatile. From a good sting through the angle cut tail ends to some decent thud this flogger covers a good range of sensation. If you practice a bit (and maybe consult in advance Uberkinky’s Beginner’s Guide to Flogging) you can have an entire scene from warm-up to an agonizing finally with this flogger. The leather is hard enough to leave some very subtle welts that fade within a few hours the longest and colors the sub’s back quite well.

Detail of the Rivet that Attached the Loop to the Handle

Detail of the Rivet that Attached the Loop to the Handle

Such a scene with just this flogger is also possible because it is very well balanced despite the heavy stainless steel. All test tops theoretically flogged extensively and continuously with this toy without tiring out their wrist. Practically what almost ruins this toy for an extensive flogging scene is the way the loop is attached to the handle. Due to the loop being a bit small and inflexible when you put the loop around the wrist and grip the handle bar it limits the movement of your wrist which makes precise flogging very difficult. Another common way of holding the flogger is putting the tip at the end of the handle between either between forefinger and middle finger. The huge rivet and thick leather strap of the loop makes this position uncomfortable. At the moment I am looking at a method to get rid of the rivet and just attach a leather loop around the base of the tip. Because otherwise this flogger is awesome value for money.

Detail of the Knot

Detail of the Knot

Besides the pain inducing aspect this flogger has also some sensual qualities. Once the sub’s back is nicely warmed and red from the flogging just let the cool steel tip of the flogger wander over the lightly bruised skin to make the sub shiver. This effect can be enhanced if you cool the tip in advance a bit with an ice cube. For an even lighter scene let the sub lay down onto his belly, blindfold him and just let the tips of the tails lightly travel over his back.

Conslusion: Versatile flogger with great value for money with a handling problem
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Versatile sensations Loop attachement makes handling difficult Uberkinky £39,99
Great Balance  Leather on top of tails could fell more natural
Good build quality
Great leather smell
Great value for money

Mr S Bishop Head Harness

Vendor: Mr S or Regulation

The Mr S Bishop Head Harness with Eye and Mouth Cover Attached

The Mr S Bishop Head Harness with Eye and Mouth Cover Attached

I have long wanted to review this toy but since it is so complex to describe the construction I always chose something different to review despite being one of my favorite bondage toys. But since it is my birthday today I sat down to treat you to this review.

Construction

Before I talk about the construction a short word about measurements: Because there are no less than 6 straps with roller buckles and a Velcro patch it is almost impossible to talk about sizes because if you fasten one strap it naturally affects the other. I have tried out this head harness on subs with really small and really large heads and really beefy necks and it fit everyone.

The Mr S Bishop Head Harness without Any Attachements

The Mr S Bishop Head Harness without Any Attachements

The bottom of the head harness is a double layer of thick, yet soft leather which forms a collar. Onto it a strap with a roller buckle and three welded D-rings are riveted under thick saddle leather. Into this double leather layer the face mask part of the harness is sowed. It is made out of soft garment leather. While the part covering the neck and the chin is a single layer of leather, the part covering the face is also lined with garment leather. The face mask is roughly triangular shaped. On its ends it has another saddle leather strap with a roller buckle riveted onto it. At the end of this part and the collar a 90mm by 50mm patch of industrial grade Velcro is sowed for a firm and precise closure. The central part has an opening for the mouth and the nose with snap buttons around. Onto the lower ones you can put a through 2 roller buckles adjustable double layer garment leather strap. On it you can put one of two leather patches that come with the head harness. Both are made out of saddle leather lined with garment leather. One is just the patch with riveted loops to put on the strap, the other featured a pecker gag like their lockable gag. The upper 6 snap fasteners are for a triangular eye cover. The face masks runs out into a long leather strap onto which 4 other straps with roller buckles are sowed. Through these 4 straps you adjust the head harness so that it fits tightly on the sub’s head.

Detail of the later Added Loop

Detail of the later Added Loop

An alteration I had made on my head harness is a patch of double layered garment leather which a local leather shop riveted on middle of the strap running over the head. Under this flap I can put a shackle as an added bondage point. I strongly believe that the guys at Mr S can do the same thing if you want it.

Playing with it

There are two components which makes this head harness an awesome toy. First there is the sensual aspect of this toy: As I have written almost two years ago kneeling in front of a top and having the straps fastened around your head is a very intimate experience and a great way into the scene.

Detail of the Welded D-Ring

Detail of the Welded D-Ring

Once this is done, soft leather is hugging the sub’s face and the rich intoxicating scent of leather envelopes him. But in order to create this great experience it takes a lot of practice and experience how to fasten the straps in order to get tight and symmetrical without having to try and undo them too often.

Detail of the Two Straps with Roller Buckels on the Collar

Detail of the Two Straps with Roller Buckels on the Collar

After having experienced the sensual experience of having the head harness put on and just being in it, it is now time to start playing with it. First there is the bondage feeling around the head. It is not as strong as a full mask you get laced into but still the pressure of the individual straps can be felt to create a tight bondage sensation. This is good especially for a bit claustrophobic people where a full mask would be too much. If you don’t tighten the straps too much the more “airy” feeling and appeal is good newbies who would also be overwhelmed by a full hood. Also in the lighter/ newbie section belong the eye cover and the gag. While the cover does block the sub’s sight and the gag it good for chewing on and kind of hard to spit out, they are more a psychological support of a scene than made for heavy play. If you want the real deal (total darkness or a thigh, secure gag) I recommend to look at the reviews of the Ultra Blindfold or the Lockable Gag both from Mr S. A nice psychological touch I am missing is that there is no locking option for the collar straps. For real bondage aficionados knowing that they are inescapable locked into bondage gear is a great mind fuck.

Detail of the Roller Buckle of the Straps which wrap around the Head

Detail of the Roller Buckle of the Straps which wrap around the Head

Detail of the Pecker Gag Stuck Through the Mouth Hole Showing the Inside Leather Lining

Detail of the Pecker Gag Stuck Through the Mouth Hole Showing the Inside Leather Lining

With three D-rings the head harness it has ample anchoring points for a leash or attaching mitts or restraints. While the rings are tempt to be used for binding down the sub I would not advise it because there is a chance that the subs will strangle himself. Because of this I had the loop on top added. If you use the collar as an anchoring point make sure that the top of the head is even bound harder to when the sub tries to get up his head is stopped before he chokes on the collar. Another interesting way of using this head harness for bondage is attaching ropes to the four straps around the head and tying them to a bondage frame so the sub can’t move his head. It takes a bit of practice and time but the one sub which I witnessed being bound like that was entering bondage bliss after he realized that he can’t turn his head.

Conslusion: The best head harness I have yet played with
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Many different sensations Difficult to put on and adjust Mr S (Manufacturer) $379.95
Three D-Rings  No locking collar straps Regulation £389
Very versatile
High material & build quality

 

HML Velcro Leather Hand Restraints

Vendor: HML

Construction

The HML Velcro Leather Restraints with a Welded Stainless Steel D-Ring

The HML Velcro Leather Restraints with a Welded Stainless Steel D-Ring

I have gotten this pair of wrist restraints from the guys from HML to give them feedback on their latest design.

The wrist restraints are made in the same fashion like their electro ball stretcher being made out of one piece of high quality cow nappa leather folded towards the middle thus there are no sharp edges on the sides. What sets this bondage toy aside from other restraints is the workmanship and the closing mechanism: Instead of a buckle they have a 15mm and wide strap of industry grade Velcro sowed onto a 30mm wide leather strap. The piece of male Velcro is 100mm long while the female is 150mm long. Also besides the welded stainless steel D-ring there is not metal used to make these restraints. A tight and very precise stitching ensures sturdiness and reliability even when playing hard.

Detail of the Male and Female Velcro Straps

Detail of the Male and Female Velcro Straps

Due to the compact closing mechanism and the width of approx. 52mm they are very compact so they even fit in tight toy containers. They come with a 70mm long and 6mm thick steel chain hook which is a nice touch.

StitchingPlaying with it

I have seen a number of leather restraints with Velcro as a closing mechanism. The Velcro is often used as an inexpensive closing mechanism on entry-level restraints. And while this model is also the entry model of the HML restraint range they feel very sturdy thus performing very well in fettering a sub. In fact the piece de resistance of this bondage device is the closing mechanism: It is the nature of Velcro that is can be adjusted very precisely leading to a very tight bondage feeling for the fettering aficionado. On the other side of the experience spectrum I made very good experiences using this toy on a bit scared subs who are new to this kind of play. In their mind just pulling on the Velcro strap to open them is a quicker and easier way to get them out compare to having to open a buckle. An aesthetic problem that doesn’t affect the play is that there is no loop to hold the loose end of the strap.

DiameterTrust is also something the top has to develop towards this toy. When the sub struggles in these restraints the Velcro makes creaking noises and on several occasions I fear that they would open up. But even when playing with a strong ex-military sub they withstand the fight against them.

In order to keep them from accidently opening during a scene I would advise to always use the entire length of the male strap leading to a minimum diameter of 50mm and a maximum diameter of 68mm. So these restraints fit small to larger wrists. They even fit small ankles but are not really made for this restraining situation. Maybe HML can make ankle restraints by commission. But HML carriers a matching collar either with a D-ring or an O-ring.

Conslusion: The best restraints for over-head suspension I know and a great substitute for wrist cuffs
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Easy handling No ankle restraints available HML 49,90€
Precisely adjustable A bit too small diameter range
Welded D-ring

 

Mister B Leather Covered Riding Crop

Mister B Padded Leather Covered Riding Crop

Mister B Padded Leather Covered Riding Crop

I came across this toy when I was looking up the link for last week’s review of the Mister B Spanking Ties. As you probably know I am a great lover of thuddy (and thus mostly padded) impact toys. So I was excited to see that Mister B added another padded toy to their collection.

This toy has the shape of a more traditional military style riding whip with one long padded slapper and a long grip. Due to the size is promises to sit comfortable in your boot shaft while walking around and long enough to hit both cheeks of your spankee at the same time. And with a price of 33,50€ it is a good deal for a padded impact toy.

Buyer’s Guide to Pup Gear

Ever since I started ToyTorture.com I have been asked why I don’t write about pup gear. There were two reasons for that: First I usually don’t write about fetish gear because there is no way to say that a is better than b when b makes you drool and a leave you cold. Second I am not into pup play and since I always try out the toys I write about myself and I don’t get the head space effect of pup toys I found no way to write about pup toys. But the mails and questions especially from kinkster just getting into the pup scene did not stopp. I have been woofed and growled at, my legs have been humped at events while asking for advice and I have been told that it would be totally pawesome if I wrote about pup gear. So as a Christmas treat (ok, enough now of the bad puppy jokes) I spent the last couple of weeks looking at pup gear, talking to pup players and I finally wrote this (Beginners) Buyer’s Guide to Pup Gear.

As always: If I have gotten something wrong or forgot something please let me know and help me improve this article.

Head Gear

What comes to mind first when you talk about puppy gear are the different puppy hoods. They come in two major styles: Full and open hood. Full hood encase the entire head. Since the pup play community has grown there are hoods out there for almost every breed of dog and they are made out of the major fetish materials rubber and leather. While the rubber ones come mostly only in classic black, there is a wide selection of different leather ones out there; just recently Mr S introduced custom leather puppy hoods catering to the most discriminating demands. Open hoods loosely resemble the style of head harnesses. They usually have a snout, ears and sometimes even a collar and come in rubber, neoprene and leather.

Not really specific puppy gear but purposes wise related are muzzles. Designed to keep the mouth of talkative subs or biting K9s shut they are more of a functional toy than designed to enhance the pup looks. You can get them made out of neoprene, leather or rubber, depending on your fetish and play style. The rubber muzzle from Regulation is quite sturdy but if you attach a leash onto it and the pup pulls to hard there is a chance that the rubber will tear. If the puppy is very active, stay with leather. I have talked to some guys who own puppy hoods and muzzles and they said that there are combinations where you can wear a hood and a muzzle. Sadly there is no general rule of thumb so if you want to wear both pieces of gear you have to try it out.

 

Tails

Another distinctive pup play toy is the tail. The most commonly used are tails that are attached to a butt plug. I would recommend the ones from Square Pegs because they are seamless and thus comfortable to wear even for a longer mosh or walk. They come in different tail shapes, colors and butt plug sizes. Choosing the right plug size is a bit difficult. I was told that it is useful to choose a plug one size larger than you can easily take because the tail stays in place even when you wag and romp without having to constantly pinch your sphincter. However the tail is of no use if you can’t insert it at all due to being too big. Another way of keeping the tail in place is wearing a special kind of harness.

This kind of tail has gained quite some popularity in the non-puppy ass play community: When you are wearing a tail while fucking someone the moving momentum of the tail gets transferred to the plug section which than stimulates the prostate.

If you don’t want to wear a plug-style tail Oxballs and Square Peg have recently introduced tails without the plug. The Square Peg one comes with a base and is designed to be put through a hole, or can be attached to a neoprene or leather harness, the Oxballs is designed to be attached to a special harness.

 

 

Collars

The origin of collars in the BDSM scene as a sign of submission and belonging come from the dog collars. So it is only natural that they fulfill the same purpose in the pup play community. Besides being an indicator they are also practical for attaching a leash or a dog tag.

Collars are probably the piece of pup gear with the widest selection of options. They come in nearly every material and color used in kink. Either coordinate it with your hood or harness or use the collar color as a hanky. If you want an inescapable feeling you can get locking ones or if you want some added play value I recommend getting a collar with more than one D-ring.

If the pup still needs training a shock collar might be the item to get. Especially for novice pups I would recommend shock collars made for BDSM purposes. If you choose one for dogs be real careful with the intensity. The electrodes and outputs are designed to even have a distinct effect when going through thick fur. Since with humans the electrodes touch bare skin on high intensity levels they can leave burn marks or cause nerve damage!

Mitts and Knee Pads

Since puppys tend to be on all fours while playing and the human being isn’t really made for this posture, protection is needed. Mitts are a little bit more fetish than security item. Usually a pup can see where he places his palms, so when choosing mitts the appearance is more important. The most commonly used types of mitts are either lockable bondage ones made out of rubber or leather which leave the pup at the mercy of their handler or mitts that have paw-like prints or cut-outs glued to the bottom. On the other hand knee pads are essential for long term pup play. When being on the knees for an extended period of time they provide comfort and protection, especially when walking around outdoor. They might not look sexy and I haven’t found ones yet tailored to the aesthetic demands of the pup community but every pup player I talked to highly recommended softly padded ones for every pup who enjoys kneeing and being on all fours for extended periods of time.

 

Harnesses

Finding the right harness for a puppy is a two step process: First you need to consider how active the puppy is. If you attach a leash to an active puppy via the harness its material should withstand greater forces so I would recommend buying a leather harness. Otherwise you can either choose rubber, leather or neoprene. The second question is the style: For a more “natural” puppy look I was told to rather take chest harnesses instead of full body harnesses. This doesn’t limit your options that much since in the last couple of years a lot of different chest harness styles – Bulldog, Pitbull, English, Top or Hunter – came out. Like with collars you can most of the times add a second color for piping to match the rest of your gear or express a certain preference hankylike.

Accessories and Play Toys

Once the puppy is full dressed in gear the is an endless amount of accessories out there. A good one to start with are dog tags so other pups and handlers can read the pup name. Besides the dog tags traditionally being made out of metal Oxballs designed cockrings with an attached dog tag so you can show your fetish even when being out in a club without and puppy gear.

When it comes to toys for the actual play, the possibilities are endless. The most common are dog bowls, bite and squeaky toys, either made for bio dogs or from special fetish manufacturers. Naming them all is impossible so I recommend going out to your local pet or fetish store.

 

Items designed for bio dogs

Some players want the real deal and buy stuff designed for bio dogs. In most cases they are a bit cheaper than BDSM toys and naturally of cause more authentic. But always keep in mind that they weren’t design for humans. Especially when it comes to collars they are designed to be worn over a thick fur so irritations are possible. If you want real dog gear I recommend trying it out even more thoroughly than you would do with normal BDSM gear even though that might get you some weird looks at the pet store.

What you should never do is eat real dog food! Most dog food has crushed bones mixed into in order to keep the teeth of dogs from getting too long. The human set of teeth and digestion organs are not design to deal with such food! If you want an almost dog-like appeal by dog treats, give the content to a bio dog and put beef jerky into them.

Mr S Fetters Front Buckle Gag with Locking Buckle

Vendor: Mr S

Construction

The Mr S Locking Front Buckle Gag

The Mr S Locking Front Buckle Gag

The main body of this gag has roughly the shape of a stretched octagon with small recesses for the nose on the long sides. The inside of the body is made out of thick and soft padding covered with soft leather. In the middle of the inside there is a mouth insert which is 5,5cm long. It has roughly the shape of a penis with a “glans” diameter of 3,7cm and a “shaft” diameter of 3,2cm. My version of the gag has a rather firm yet very biteable version of the mouth insert. I had longer owned gags in my mouth and they had softer mouth inserts. I don’t know if this is a thing that comes with time or if Mr S changed the production process. Both hardness grades were comfortable to wear and to bite into. The outside of the body is made out of thick yet soft leather onto which two leather loops are riveted. Through these loops runs a long, 2,7cm wide thick leather strap. The punching allows for a diameter between 33cm and 60cm so it should fit almost all head sizes. At the end of the strap there is a locking roller buckle which makes closing the gag quite easily.

Playing with it

Gags can have different purposes: Make the sub drool, keep his mouth open or muffle the noises he makes. This gag is made for the latter and performs fairly at it. When fastened tight onto the mouth the padding absorbs quite some noise. But like every other gag I have put into people mouth or had in my mouth this is not a silencer but the best performing gag yet (even better than a butterfly gag). Also the padding makes the gag quite comfortable when pressed onto the face so it can be worn for extended periods of time.

Detail of the Penis shaped Mouth insert and the soft Padding

Detail of the Penis shaped Mouth insert and the soft Padding

What sets this gag aside from other ones are the small and clever details. The obvious one is the front locking buckle. For most subs it is a great mindfuck when you show them the lock and then put it into the buckle. They know that there is no way they are going to articulate, drink or even breath through their mouth until the master permits it. Especially the last constraint comes in handy when you want to do breath play: When tightly fastened sucking in air will only result in sucking the gag closer to the mouth so when you keep shut the sub’s nose there is no way he can breathe.

The mouth insert has as mentioned about roughly the shape of a small (?) penis. I have seen several subs who when going down into sub space started sucking on it which adds just a bit more to the scene. From a practical point of view the larger diameter of the glans gives the teeth a bit more support and keeps the gag in place which is good for longer scenes.

Detail of the Locking Roller Buckle

Detail of the Locking Roller Buckle

From a practical point of view this gag is ideal when you suspend a sub who is lying on his back: With the buckle on the front the can be undone and fastened without any problems even with a tightly bound sub.

Besides the play aspects this gag has also some fetish benefits for the leather lover. On the one hand there is the intense leather smell when wearing the gag. Mr S only uses high quality hides and them being pressed onto the subs face directly under his nose exposes him to the great, intoxicating leather scent of them. On the other hand (no pun intended) the soft garment leather above the padding almost feeling like a leather gloved hand pressing over your mouth. If you are a fan of Glover over Mouth play, this is definitely the gag to get!

Conslusion: The best silencing leather gag I know off
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Quite silencing Mr S $89.95
Comfortable to wear for extended periods of time
Great leather quality
Lots of fetish potential
Pratical

 

Mr S Four Buckle Hand Restraints

Vendor: Mr S

Construction

The Outside of the Restraints

The Outside of the Restraints

Describing the shape of these restraints is a bit hard. A piece of padding covers everything from the front of the palm, the back of the hand down to way below the wrist. To make wearing the restraints more comfortable and enabling holding onto something there is a padding going between the thumb and the forefinger thus you have a left and a right restraint. The padding is 16mm tick, very soft and covered in soft either black or grey leather. Onto the part which goes over the palm four sturdy straps out of 3,5mm thick belt leather are riveted. Into the straps are enough holes punched to enable enclosing even very large hands. Fastening them is made easy due to the rolling buckles which are equipped with pointed pins so they go into the holes more easily. Each restraint has two D-rings: One on the palm side hold in place by a leather loop embossed with the Mr S logo and one attached just behind the buckle of the upper strap going around the wrist.

The Inside of the Restraints lined with the soft padding

The Inside of the Restraints lined with the soft padding

As always with Mr S the metal work is superb: Solid welded D-rings are hold in place by sturdy rivets so these restraints will withstand even the heaviest of play.

Playing with it

The Back of the Restraints with all four Buckles fastend

The Back of the Restraints with all four Buckles fastend

The construction of these restraints is ideal for any fixation with the hands above the head. When using the D-ring on the palm side the draft of the fixation pulls on the entire restraints evenly instead of pulling one side up and shifting the entire restraint like when using a cuff-style restraint with D-rings on the side. Furthermore the two lower straps support the wrist in staying upright even when the sub clings to the restraints when standing on the tip of his toes. This support is vital to prevent at best tiring out the joint or cutting circulation, at worst injuries from happening. Due to this property I highly recommend these restraints when attaching the sub to a St. Andrews cross. I especially recommend them for flogging: In order to relax the muscles of the upper back the upper arms should be in line with the shoulders like when tied onto a Latin cross. But when adding a bit of rope between the upper eyebolt and the palm side D-ring you can achieve that position on a St. Andrews cross.

The Front of the Restraints when worn

The Front of the Restraints when worn

What this restraint isn’t made for supporting your entire body weight! Of cause when tightening the straps firmly (for potential risks see last paragraph) your hand will not slip out of the restraint. But the draft will apply pressure from below on the hand bones which can cause injuries. Also due to the force the shoulders have to deal with in this stress position there is a higher risk of dislocation. If you want to suspend someone into the air for a short period of time, attach the restraints to a sturdy spread bar the sub can hold onto. For an extended period of time add at least a pair of padded foot suspension restraints (and better even add a waist belt) and always be aware of the threat of suspension trauma.

Detail of the Roller Buckle

Detail of the Roller Buckle

But these restraints are not only good for suspending someone standing up quite straight. They are also ideal for “traditional” bondage when lying down. Especially when you like to tie your subs into a spread eagle the palm side D-ring helps distribute the draft better than a traditional leather cuff. If you are a bondage enthusiast who enjoys the feeling of heavy and tight bondage gear these restraints I recommend them as a substitute for cuff-style wrist restraints. I had boys getting a boner just from the feeling of the four leather straps being tightened around their hand. Once fastened using both D-rings on anchor points in different moving dimensions will limit the movement of the hands quite strongly. Sadly these restraints don’t have at least one locking strap which would have added to the overall feeling of being caught in them.

The Mr S logo emobssed on the loop holding the front D-Ring

The Mr S logo emobssed on the loop holding the front D-Ring

How long these restraints can be worn depends on the form of the restrained hands and how tight you fasten the two upper straps. Since the tissue between your thumb and your forefinger is soft and gives in easily fastening the strap running between these two fingers too strong can cut the circulation. A similar yet not as extreme effect can happen with the strap running across the hand. Usually the thick padding prevents this from happening but if you want a really tight feeling of your hand being bound by leather be prepared that after some time restraints will have to get loosened.

Conslusion: The best restraints for over-head suspension I know and a great substitute for wrist cuffs
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Comfortable to wear even in stress position Risk of cutting circulation when fastening too tight Mr S $179,95
Intense feeling of being restrained Not locking
Two D-rings
Great build quality