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Pig Play Toys: Nose Hooks & Mouth Opener

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Pig Play Mouth & Nose Toys

It’s beginning to look a lot like Pigmas
Toy for every hoe
But the prettiest sight to see is the piggy that will be
Choking on a pole

 

Merry Pigmas kinksters and perverts! It’s a holiday created by gays to celebrate that we survived yet another year of holidays among family and friends who have a hard time understanding our lifes. It’s a day to ring out the old year with sexy debaucheries.

The Classic Nose Hook

Pig play has been gaining some traction in the past year. There are a few toys out there associated with this kind of play. Which day of the year would be better to take a look at a couple of these particular and perverted toys than today?

Classic Nose Hook from Regulation (£ 19.99)

As the name already implies the classic nose hook is probably the most basic and iconic toy in pig play. 5mm grade stainless steel wire is bend into u-shape. The body has a height of 51mm and the hooks going into the nose are 16mm long. The clearance between the hooks is 9mm and 10mm between the hooks and the body. The ends of the hooks are well rounded and don’t have any sharp edges.

The Rounded Ends of the Nose Hook

In order to pull the nose back to get that snout look perverts into pig play dig, threat a piece of rope or tension strap through the apex of the body, pull it back over the head of sub’s head and attach it to a collar, harness or whatever bondage layout you want to incorporate it into. The more you pull, the more stress bondage it becomes. In stress positions, please be careful, the nose tissue is delicate and too much draft can result in injuries.

To call the hook comfortable would be an overstatement. But the long hooks distribute the draft a bit more evenly even though the tips dig a bit into the nose. What on a comfort level sets this hook apart from others I have tried is the small fillet. The hooks are so close together that they comfortably fit even tiny noses. Two of the hooks can also be used to pull the corners of the mouth apart for pathetic drooley face. Some pig players like to add a hook for each nostril to really pull the nose apart. For this the hook is actually too wide for most noses. Since the stainless steel wire is really rigid, you need heavy duty tools to bend the hooks tighter together.

The Hook of the Nose Hook Strap

Nose Hook with Strap from Regulation (£ 24.99)

If you are like me and are not good with rope, the nose hook with strap might look attractive. The nose hook is a piece of 4.5mm thick metal wire bend into u shape. The ends are slightly bent upwards in a sharp angle to go into the nose. To finish the otherwise sharp ends of the hook, a 6mm metal ball is soldered into the end. The clearance between the balls is about 12mm. Since one of my balls is off center on my version, I am pretty sure that the distance can vary one to two millimeters.

Onto the hook a 55cm long strap of 15mm wide bridle leather is riveted. The edges are not burnished or deburred so it is far from the quality of products made by Regulation; you can feel that this toy was purchased from an Asian manufacturer. Every 40mm the strap is decorated with a rivet. At the end a key ring is riveted onto which a small die casting swivel carabiner is attached.

Keyring with Swivel Carabiner

While the overall production quality of the toy might not be high end and far from the toys Regulation makes themselves, it is a functional. The spheres are the end of the nose hook are actually a bit more comfortable because they distribute the draft more evenly.

 

However, getting tension onto the hook is actually a challenge. Among my testees the length of the lead was too long for attaching to a collar, too short for attaching it to a harness. There are probably people out there where it fits perfectly. But in my sample of ten testees with very broad body types it didn’t fit. I would have wished for a double d-ring closure mechanism to shorten the leash to fit the piggy’s physique and play situation.

The Adjustment Screws to Fix the Teeth Retainer

Inspection Gag from Regulation (£ 24.79)

The body of this pig toy is a slightly oval, slightly convex ring out of sturdy polymer with internal dimensions of 75x67mm. At the top are 22mm long and 9mm apart pins covered with hoods which are supposed to go into the mouth. At the bottom is a 70mm long and 23mm wide grip. It houses a 12mm wide piece of L-shaped stainless steel. This sheet goes into the mouth and pulls the teeth on the lower jaw down. A small spring pulls it down for easy adjustment. Since the spring is far from strong enough to keep the strong jaw muscles in check, there is a screw to fix the strap in place.

In order to close the mouth, humans need to move the lower jaw. If the sub does this, he pushes the toy into the nose. Of course the screw only has so much power but closing the mouth is almost impossible and certainly very painful, making this toy very effective keep the mouth open. Even on a cooperative sub, the pins pins pushing into the nose will lead to a very piggy and somewhat pathetic look of the sub.

The Pins for Nose Fixation

The gag allows for the sub’s mouth to be opened to the max, far wider than a spider gag or ring gag would allow. The inspection gag is smaller and nimbler than a Jennings Jaw clamp and adds a more piggy look. So it is in the middle ground of effectiveness and handiness. For face fucking and deep throating the gag works well because it moves a bit and thus is more comfortable for the top. Just make sure you don’t injure the nose when vigorously fucking. One of my testee tops preferred this toy for manual aka dildo-suppported face fuck training. The piggy look of the stretched nostrils added to the drooling of the sub.

For forced rimming this gag is medium effective. Yes, the mouth is forced open but that tongue can retreat in the back of the mouth or block to opening whatever is opportune in the scene. Forced swallowing is okish. Swallowing with an open mouth is difficult and you have to pinch the nose shut for really force which is a but undercut by the pins. So forced drinking has a little water boarding to it.

The Mouth Clamp all opened up

Mouth Gag Clamp from Regulation (£ 34.70)

The body of this gag is still O-ring with 45mm internal diameter. It features little wings on the side onto which threaded rods are soldered. On these rods ride half-circles with wings. There movement is limited by nuts which ultimately screw the movable parts towards the O-ring. The toy is well made out of solid steel without sharp edges. So there are no unintentional injuries even in the delicate corners of the mouth – if the sub can easily open his mouth far enough…

Technically the mouth gag clamp is not a gag but a clamp. It is designed to put the lips around the O-ring and then lock them in place. Depending on the force this just keeps the lips open or induces quite a lot of pain in an otherwise not for pain play used body area. Even when the sub is a masochist, be careful not to bruise the lips as they are a delicate body are.

The Adjustment Mechanism of the Mouth Clamp

In order to put the lips around the O-ring the sub more or less has to open his mouth. Closing it will pull painfully on the lips. But since only the lips keep the mouth open, the effectiveness as a gag is limited. So this toy requires some cooperation of the sub. The only way of forcing his jaws open is grabbing them with your hand. This is a bit cumbersome because the gag is in the way of the palm. Yet the small opening is large enough to pour liquids and small solids into the mouth – if the bottom doesn’t block the opening with his tongue. For forced rimming this toy is not really made. The wide, bulky construction in top of the mouth keeps the bottom from really getting into the crack. He would need a REALLY long tongue to get into your anus.

Straight friends a told me that this clamp can also be used to forcefully keep a woman’s labia opened. The internal diameter of 45mm is not generous so I am not sure how comfortable a top could use this toy for penetration. If you play with a vagina/ bonus or front hole user and have other applications for this toy in this region, please write me!

Slot Tawse & Bullseye Wooden Paddle

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Bullseye & Slot Tawse Wooden Paddle

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Both paddles are made out of a medium brown, light wood which has been sanded and oiled so there are not splinters. The surface still has some noticeable grain left for a natural texture. Both paddles are fairly light. Sadly I forgot the note with the exact numbers on my desk home and my mother’s kitchen scale is not accurate enough for a measurement. I will fill in the blanks once home from Christmas vacation.

The Bullseye is made out of single piece of 17mm thick wood. The edge running around the paddle had been nicely rounded. The paddle’s circular hitting surface has a diameter of 130mm. It features one central hole with 25mm diameter and four adjacent ones with 20mm diameter. The head flows into a 190mm long handle which tapers slightly towards the end for a secure and comfortable grip. At the bottom a leather loop is threaded through a hole.

The Sandwich Handle of the Slot Tawse with the Leather Loop in the Back

The basis of the Slot Tawse on the other hand is a 12mm thick blade. Its head measures 95x280mm and features hard but not sharp edges. The 145mm long tapering handle is reinforced with a layer of wood on each sides bringing the thickness up to 25mm. It also adds round edges for a more comfortable grip. In middle of the hitting surface there are two 20x90mm holes (aka slots) cut behind each other. Also the Slot Tawse is equipped with a leather loop. Both toys’ loops are long enough to secure the toy around the top’s wrist.

Playing with the Bullseye and Slot Tawse

Being light paddles, the pain sensation of both lean toward sting.  This is supported by the design. Both the holes and the slots allow air which would otherwise be trapped between the hitting surface and the sub’s body to escape. So there is no dampening air cushion how little its effect might be. Being light the intensity can luckily be adjusted finely. A light tapping will not cause too much pain. However, if you hit full throttle, both paddles will sting like hell!

The Head of the Bullseye

The Bullseye is a surprisingly beginner-friendly paddle. The ergonomic handle makes it easy to grip and its compact shape easy to control. The head is small enough to target individual ass cheeks or thighs even with bad aim or arm control. More experienced players can even use it for ball slapping if the bottom can spread his legs far enough. If you hit with only little force, the Bullseye can be used for warm-up if the bottom prefers stingy warm-up.

The Slot Tawse plays a completely different game! The first noticeable attribute is that the blade like the Bullseye’s head has no give. So unlike a leather toy 100% of kinetic energy is transformed into pain on the bottom body. The blade it large enough to comfortably hit both ass cheeks at the same time. Focused hits with just the end are possible. But the hard edge will add even more sting.

The Hard Edge on the Slot Tawse

While the Bullseyes is a bit head-heavy, the Slot Tawse is really well balanced so you don’t tired your wrist when hitting with it. The sanding and oiling has been done painstakingly so the texture you feel when running your finger tips over the toys does not transform into abrasive pain.

Caution is in order when playing heavily with this toy: Wood is a higher maintenance material than rubber and aluminum. It is hard to sanitize because it absorbs a bit of the tissue fluid and since it has no clear coating, blood will stain it. So if you play really hard, do not only spray a sanitizer on it but let it lay in the sun for a few days before using it on someone else (alternative: use a UV sanitizer some of you might have bought during the Covid crisis). To keep the paddle as beautiful as it is, I recommend oiling it with olive oil (or a wood oil of your choice) every 6 to 12 months depending on how often you use it. This might alter the wood color and give the toy patina but ultimately it will turn a random paddle into YOUR paddle.

The Wood’s Grain

That being said at least for me the feeling of warm, grainy wood in the hand makes up for this work. The handle of the Bullseye feels and fits like worry stone. For me as a top there is something sensual in holding a beautiful made, open-grain piece of wood in my hand and playing with it. If you make your sub kiss the toy before applying it, he will be able to smell a faint hint of wood.

Conclusion: Beautifully made wooden paddle for beginners and pain pigs.  
Pros Cons Where to get Price  
Despite being made out of unforgiving wood, Bullseye can be used for warmup Being made out of wood difficult to clean and sanitize Regulation Bullseye £39.99
Slot Tawse £39.99
Excellent overall quality and fell
Leather loop for easy storage

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer IV – Last Minute Gift Ideas

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Thirsty Ho Ho Ho Christmas Tee Ornament

It is only 6 days till Christmas Eve! So the time for elaborate custom gear gifts has somewhat passed. To not end up empty handed or just a bleak gift certificate, here are some last minute recommendations.

Last year fetish pin manufacturer Master of the House started a line of limited edition Christmas Tree ornaments with one ornament per year. Luckily, Regulation in London still has both last and this year’s: 2021’s Thirsty Hohoho featuring a sexy boy Christmas and this year’s Naughty & Nice with a blindfolded sub. They are great to bring a little naughty sparkle into your Christmas Tree, to hang in your home office window or to add a little something to an otherwise dull gift certificate. To kink up a gift certificate, you can put it in one of Spacepup Silver’s funny yet kinky Christmas cards.

A Selection of Spacepup Silver’s Kinky Christmas Cards

Speaking off Spacepup Silver: Him being so into campy and shiny stuff, I am actually surprise that he has not started making Christmas ornaments of his own yet. If you like his style Regulation sells all most his entire oeuvre as a writer. He takes accurate but always humoristic looks as different parts of the scene like rubber or pup play. So if you want to gift that special hardcore fetishist something funny and educational, check out his works.

Get Fucked Up Poppers Pack

Finally, something almost all kinksters cannot have enough in stock: Poppers, the perfect present for perverts. Surprisingly, I often get asked “Where can I get poppers in good quality?” Since the store where I shop only ships locally, take a look at Twisted Beast Poppers. Personally, I had most fun with their Fag and Holy Water, an avid bator friend unsurprisingly swears by Bator. But since everyone reacts differently to different kinds of poppers, gifting a multi pack to find out which works best for the lucky recipient might bring joy to him, his play partners and thus hopefully you for the dark winter months to come.

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer III – Kink Inspired Beauty Products

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Set of Leather Daddy Beauty Products

Being a fresh looking kinkster can be hard: Late night parties are followed by early brunches, too much poppers at Sunday fisting martinees before a presentation on Monday or the packed schedules of four days at Folsom Europe can take it’s toll. And I haven’t even started to talk about age.

Being gay, most of us have our beauty routines and preferred products – including me. But what if there were products made and developed by a kinkster for kinkster. Leather Daddy Skin took up this task and developed a line of high end beauty products for men.

The Leather Daddy Cum Rag

The products take care all the essential body parts from hair over face and beard (surprisingly, they don’t offer a shaving soap and after shave for those who trim their beards – yet) to the torso. While their first products were quite traditional, they recently introduced flavored body scrub. So if you ever wanted to combine body worship with shower sex and a taste experience, this is the way to go. For more “conventional” intimacy, combining their massage oil with a cumrag would be a nice stocking stuffer.

The Leather Daddy Cologne

One of their latest products is a cologne which combines the sexy scent of leather with other masculine notes. I tried to get a whiff of it before writing this but living in bumb fuck nowhere in Europe… Well. A friend of mine is using it and he says it’s combines elegance with a kinky twist so I take his work for. At least the bottle looks really cool nice and would be equally at home a bathroom or a dungeon space.

I have already created my own personal wish list for when I make it back to the USA (so not kinky SPA for me this Christmas). So in the meantime it is up to you to support a small business of a community member and thus make a good friend – or youself – glow and shine even more.

Wrist to Ball Restraint

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The Mr S Wrist to Ball Restraint

Vendor: Mr S

Construction

Five individual pieces form this restraint setup. Literally the central element is 31mm wide piece of the typical Mr S soft yet sturdy bridle leather which is burnished and deburred. It is folded several times and riveted to house stainless steel D-rings on both ends. They are 38mm wide and 27mm high and have a wire strength of 6mm so they are really heavy duty! In the middle sits a locking pin.

By threading  the belt through the D-rings, this leather bars connects two cuff style wrist restraints. They are not padded but lined with soft garment leather for a bit more restrictive feeling. The belt is closed with roller buckles and houses a D-ring between two rivets. The restraints are functional and effective, covering a range of wrist circumference form 11cm to 22cm. Depending on how big the sub’s wrist are, you might be able to push the ends of the cuff closing belt over the locking pin to lock the restraints. The roller buckles are wider than the width of the D-ring. This means they “firmly” connected to the connector and cannot be exchange for different, for example padded ones or bondage mitts.

The Scrotum Strap

The locking pin in the middle of the connection bar is the anchor point for a 24cm long and 1.9cm wide strap of bridle leather. It’s bottom is lined with garment leather for a total width of 2.5cm. At the top eight holes for attaching the strap to the locking pin are punched. At the bottom another locking pin is riveted to the strap. It is the anchor point for 35.5cm long and 1.9cm wide piece of extra soft, unlined bridle leather. There is one hole punched at one end and nine at the other. This strap is for attaching the restraint setup to the scrotum and covers a ball neck circumference from a already surprisingly large 15cm to massive, (saline-)pumped 30cm.

The Roller Buckle

To connect all straps, the Wrist to Ball Restaint comes with two small keyed alike Master padlocks. If you already have a keyed alike padlock system for your play space, you can use your pad lock with up to 3.5mm shale wire strength.

Playing with the Wrist to Ball Restaint

The primary purpose of this toy is to create a physical feedback loop between the hands and the balls. The human body usually try to “work out” pain sensation through muscle movement. So regardless of what you are doing to the sub as soon as he tries to move his arms to help processing the sensation his balls will move. The shorter the connection strap, the stronger to force transmition. This is especially devious if the balls are pre-bruised so hurt from movement of when you line the scrotum strap with a (dull) pin strap). I found that particularly fun in combination with CBT or e-stim around the balls. Even more so when you hang a movement sensitive e-stim device from the padlock on the scrotum strap.

The Connector

Of course, this toy also works as a piece of bondage gear without additionally induced sensations. The most basic use is to use it as simple handcuffs without the scrotum part. The connector is not as rigid as a metal on like on Hiatts 840 handcuffs but has less slack and torsional stiffness than carabiners or rope. The connector allows the cuffs to be grabbed easily and forcefully (just make sure the locking pin is between your fingers) so you can handle and direct the sub.

When you include the scrotum setup, the simplest bondage layout is to keep the sub’s arms down. Handily the restraint can be worn below cloths. More demanding is incorporating it into any stress bondage position and watch him try to get into himself into a somewhat comfortable position while he is tugging on his balls. Once the sub has found a somewhat comfortable position, smack his balls to encourage some movement.

The Cuffs in the Smallest and LargestSetting

Putting the restraints on is easy: First put the wrists of the sub either in front or behind his body and fetter them either with the connector’s locking pin either facing towards or away from the body (yes, each of the four combinations has a different effect). Then Tie the scrotum strap around the balls neck, push the single hole of the connection strap over it and close using a padlock. Finally, adjust the tightness of the tug with the length of the connection strap and push the corresponding hole over the connector’s locking pin. Having put the process into words makes it sound more complicated than it actually is. Since I figured out how to use the individual elements, it takes me less than a minute to fetter a sub completely.

The Riveted D-Rings on the Cuff and Connector

When the locking pin is facing the body, there is a little bit more slack in the connection strap so less force is transmitted. For more intense play, let the locking pin face away from the sub’s body. The restraint position has a bit stronger effect. Behind the body is the more traditional position. Due to the elbows being a bit twisted and stretched, there is less way for them to act out things so again it is more intense. Also, the balls are prominently tugged back for easier targeting. However, this way the connection strap covers the anus. If you want to fuck your bottom hard, put the restraint in front of the body. Depending on the sub’s physiology, this even works in doggystyle. For ball torture this position works only limited because the dick is in the way. But if you make a bit of stress bondage out of it by pulling the arms up using the D-rings on the cuffs, you get a nice, strong balls tugging again. Just be careful not to overdo it because the wrist cuffs are not made for suspension bondage!

Conslusion: Unique and effective combination of CBT and bondage.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Interesting bondage layouts possible Scrotum Strap could use more holes for smaller balls Mr S Leather $139.95
Lockable
D-rings on cuffs Restraints are not padded and cannot be exchanged
Extrem high build and manufacturing quality

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer II – Kinky Window Ornaments

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Different Sizes of Kinky Window Ornaments by HimBroFF

What do gift a kinkster who has everything? Kinky decorations! But big art pieces and digital commissions can eat into the budget and are very common. When you are looking for something unusual which doesn’t break the bank, this is for you.

The Small Ornaments can be Worn as Earrings or Key Fobs

HimBroFF on Twitter, a Manchester fister, makes small art pieces in the style of stained glass windows but with kinky motives. From almost spiritual to more than explicit, from pride flags to kink symbols to express your desires, he covers a very wide range of themes. The sizes range from 87x125mm up to A5 so you can choose how noticeable your new bathroom window or cage bar decoration is going to be.

A nice feat is that these art pieces are not actually made out of glass but a polymer and resin blend which unlike glass does not break. This way even when there is some rough play in the dungeon the are safe when they fall down. This also enables objects like key rings with pride flags to be made out of it.

The key rings start at 7.50£ which are also sold in pairs to use as earrings and the window art is between 20£ and 150£ depending on the size. You can order them via his Etsy shop.

The different motives for small Ornaments

Fetters Tight Leather Hood

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The Fetters Tight Leather Hood

Vendor: Regulation

Making a good hood is an art not mastered by many! This is my first piece of headgear from Fetters. So I was curious if it could live up to the same level of quality I know from their other leather gear.

Construction

The Tight Leather Hood is a four panel hood made out of thick garment leather. The leather is soft and smells rich and delicious just like high quality leather gear should be. Through seams and molding the hood follows the shape of the human head. Below the nose are two small grommets which are large enough for easy breathing even in heavy scenes. The mouth part is reinforced with another piece of leather so it stays in shape over time.

The Nose Grommets and Pin-Hole Eyes

On the back from the neck to almost all the way up to the crown runs a piece of thin nylon rope through cinch rings. They are high quality and sturdy so they can withstand a lot of force when lacing the head tightly and/ or forcefully. A leather wedge below the lacing keeps the hair from getting caught in the lacing. Regardless if you choose the hood to be lined with leather or not, the wedge will always be an unlined, single layer piece of leather.

Besides the leather lining there are several customizing options how the eyes and nose opening are designed. The hood can be outfitted with a snap-on blindfold, a mouth cover (optionally with a pecker gag) and a locking collar. The range of sizes is quite large in theory, ranging up to a collar size of 20’’. But the lower end is at 14’’ circumference which especially for petit subs and ladies might still be too wide.

The Lacing on the Back for a Snug Fit

Playing with the Tight Leather Hood

As the name suggests, this hood tightly wraps around the head and follows the contours of the face without being uncomfortable.  Since the lacing goes up all the way to almost the crown, its tightness can be locally adjusted so the hood can accommodate different head shapes and sizes. Being made out of soft yet thick garment leather you really get the feeling of being encapsulated in it. For an even stronger leather feeling I highly recommend the leather lining. It is hard to put the difference into words but the feeling of the lined hood tightening around the head is more compact, more intense. While the double layer of leather shields the bottom a bit from the surroundings a medium-light touch is still felt.

To my astonishment the fit of this hood is very good despite being only made out of basically four panels! Even the nose section which is often a problem fit most testees well, regardless of the nose was large, wide or pointy. As with every piece of leather gear, it will adapt to the wearer over time so if the nose does not fit perfectly right away, wear the hood over extended periods of time and sweat and warmth would mold this section into shape.

Detail of the Four-Panel Construction

The level of gimpdom is determined by the features chosen. There is not really much to say about the open and no eyes options. The pin-holes of this eye option are 8mm apart. This is just enough for most people to still see almost unobscured. You can add a blindfold which is attached using snap buttons. This of course distracts a bit the clean, smooth gimp look of the hood. Despite being made out of soft leather there is a small gap between the blindfold and the mask itself. This gap is not wide enough for the bottom to see anything but some stray light reaches the eye. For a 100% block-out, I recommend a dedicated blindfold.

The open mouth can also be covered either by just but a patch of leather of a pecker gag. The snap buttons are strong enough to keep the gag locked inside the sub’s mouth even when he tried to push it out with force. The gag option is only available for the round mouth.

The round mouth has a diameter of 45mm. This is large enough to place even a large gag inside. But if you are well endowed it will probably be too small for your dick. Even when your dick is smaller, this hood is not really made for vigorous face fucking. The cutout is just the bare leather edge and not finished with piping. Due to the reinforcement of the mouth part, the edge is stiff. Over time it will get softer but especially in the beginning you can get a bit of leather burn if you fuck too quickly.

The Unfinished Mouth Opening

For the slot mouth I have gotten only second hand opinions. According to a sub from the UK, once the hood is broken in well, you can push a gag through it. But for a dick it is to narrow and uncomfortable.

The final option is the lockable collar. This only makes sense when you want a cleanish look (as clean as it gets with an attached lockable collar). Neither any of the friends who own this hood nor me did choose it because it limits what you can do with the hood. If your sub or you are collared, you probably already have a collar you want to wear with this hood. A looser chain collar might work, but leather collars are too bulky. Since the leather is so soft, this hood even works with a posture or a choking collar. So my advice is not to add the collar just to stay flexible of what you can do with this hood.

Conclusion: Highly customizable, high quality, tightly fitting leather hood.
Pros Cons Where to get Price
Tight yet comfortable fit Edges of the mouth (and eyes) are not treated/ finished Regulation £275 + options
Many customizing options
High quality leather & build quality
Very sturdy lacing with leather hair guard

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer I – Cuffed Leathstraints

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The Cuffed Leathstraints

Only four Sundays till Christmas! This mean the pre-Christmas season starts in Germany and each Sunday another of the four candles is lit on the advent wreath. It has become a time-honor tradition that on the four Sunday leading up to Christmas, I give a little hint what to gift fellow kinky fuckers.

The Different Connectors of the Toolbox Bundle to Attach the individual Leathstraints to each other

Almost exactly two years ago, I reviewed the Cuffed Rubstraints which I liked a lot. The wide restraints with solid metal trim and Segufix locking showed that they mean business! They are perfect for complete rubber bondage and look great on pictures. But to be frank, beyond that, I rarely use them because rubber has its limitations and needs a lot of care compared to leather.

All Leathstraints from Head to Toe

So I was very excited when Cuffed introduced their Leathstraints earlier this year. The same design and functionality I knew from the Rubstraints but made out of leather: Still Segufix locked, still with the awesome stainless steel gates to connect the restraints with each other. The range covers almost the entire body from basic wrist and ankle cuffs over a collar up to biceps and thigh restraints. Just a waist belt is missing.  There are connectors in different lengths available.  Prices start at 199€ for the collar and 209€ for basic restraints; the connectors cost between 37.90€ and 74.90€. There are different bundles available which are still on Black Friday sale if you are quick.

Being made out of leather they are a bit pricier than rubber. From the pictures the leather and stitching look high quality. But since leather is a very different material than rubber, I have to play with these in person for an educated opinion.

I really would love to review them because I do not have any Segufix-lockable leather restraints in my playroom (#ToyCollector)! So, if you want to gift me something for Christmas, the Leathstraints Head to Toe set along with the Toolbox connector bundle is something I would very much appreciate.

Agitation Collar

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The Mako & Tiger 2“ Agitation Collar

Vendor: Mako & Tiger

Design

What makes this collar stick out that it’s HEAVY! Without the lock it weights slightly over 600g. This is (thin) metal collar territory! The weight comes from its heavy duty construction: In the middle of this multi-layer construction is the collar itself, a piece of bridle leather is lined with firm yet comfortable padding which is covered with garment leather.  The garment leather comes in black, red or blue. The piping of the lining is slightly wider than the bridle leather so even when the collar is fastened tightly, the unburnished edges don’t scratch the skin. Below the lining two screws (not rivets!) each hold the flaps in place which house the massive, burnished steel roller buckles and guiding loops for the belt.  The belt surrounding the collar is made out of two layers 3.5mm thick bridle leather. The two ends of the belt are punched with two rows of three holes each.

The D-Ring with the Branded Protective Flap

In the center of the belt which marks the back of the collar a leather flap embossed with Mako & Tiger’s paw brand sign is sewed. It covers the thick 6mm thick stainless steel D-ring which is 45mm wide and 32mm deep.

What makes this collar an agitation collar is the grip what is sewed onto the back of the belt. It is as wide as the belt and in the middle also double-layered. When I first showed my testees this collar they are a bit puzzled that it was sewed and not riveted/ screwed onto the belt as a seam for them meant something that could come apart. The stitching is so high quality, the yarn to thick and strong that none had fears that things would come apart, even with the most unruly, agitating subs!

The Supplied Padlock locking the Agitation Collar

For locking the collar, there are two options: The more elegant one is the Segufix lock. On this version the belt holes are pushed over a Segufix lock pin and shackled with a standard Segufix lock. But of course any sub with access to a strong magnet and a free hand can undo this. More secure and heavy looking is order this collar without the pin. Then you pull the shackle of a padlock through both belt ends and close it. This way the collar is most definitively secured around the slave’s neck and you can use your keyed-alike padlock set you already have in place in your dungeon. But don’t lose the key! The thick, multi-layer design makes cutting through the collar with safety sheers or emergency knifes almost impossible. If you don’t have a key-aliked padlock system in your playspace,

The Sewed on Multi-Layered Grip

The collar also comes in two sizes: 50mm/ 2’’ width which I have or 75mm/ 3’’ which can double as a posture collar! When choosing the collar width, please be realistic. Because of the many layers of thick leather, it takes forever to break this collar in and it will never get as flexible as a “normal” bondage collar from Mr S for example. So if it fits too tightly between shoulders and chin, the unburnished edges of the stiff leather can scratch a bit, not to talk about the metal trim of the buckles.  When ordering the collar, you have to supply a neck circumference. There is some leeway up and down this sizing so it fits somewhat smaller and bigger collar sizes. But in order to work well, the fit should be good. So more than any other piece of bondage gear, this is really something the sub should own for a perfect fit instead of a dom keeping in his playroom as a one-size fits all. If you want to do the latter, 16’’ is the most common collar size. Smaller twinks have around 14½’’, big bears around 17’’.

 

One of the Two Roller Buckles

Playing with the Agitation Collar

 

Like many BDSM toys, agitation collars come from the vanilla world. They were originally designed to train wild puppies or control sharp dogs – the bio not the fetish kind.

Even “just” the 50mm version has an air of heavy duty around it! The many layers of thick leather, the big, burnished roller buckles, the big padlock dangling in the front (or the – ideally – red Segufix lock cap) creates an atmosphere of seriousness. This is also enhanced by the way it is fettered around the subs neck: Since the belts meet in the front, a kneeling slave has to look up to his master while he adjusts the two buckles so it sits right in the middle of the neck and ultimately locks the collar. Like with all lockable gear, hearing the click of the lock adds a lot of psychological momentum. This is even enhanced when during play the dandling lock hits the sternum. If you want to facilitate that, buy a long-shackled lock with a thinner wire so it moves around more. If you want to mark you dog visibly, you have to lock the dog tag also shackle because there is no D-ring on the front.

Example of the Many Bridle Leather Layers

Besides humiliating and restricting the neck movement through the collar, the piece de résistance  is the grip on the back. It really allows to – somewhat – comfortably grab the neck of the sub – either holding him back or drag him towards where he has to be (like a hole to rim or a dick to suck…). The collar distributes the pulling force quite evenly. Of course, it is felt strongly but this Agitation Collar is the most comfortable and thus safest one I have experienced so far. This of course also applies for attaching a leash to the D-ring at the back. So if you have an unruly puppy that wants to jump at people, keeping him on a short leash works well with this collar. Despite being so thick and stiff, the collar can be worn comfortable over extended periods of time.

The Double-Layered Grip to Pull or Hold the Slave

The “somewhat comfortable” is directed towards the dom. Being made out of STIFF bridle leather, the grip is not really comfortable to grab with its unburnished and undeburred edges. I tried to soften mine using neatsfoot oil but had limited success. Over time it will get a bit more broken in, but since it is double-layered at the center, it can only get so soft. At least the sharp edges are not a problem if you like me play almost always (leather) gloved as a top. A bigger issue is the width, especially on the 3’’ wide version: The top has to grab a 75mm wide, not really compressing piece of leather. For guys with smaller hands this is almost impossible. I have already given feedback to Mako & Tiger and maybe in the future there will be an about 1’’ wide bridle leather grip sheathed with garment leather. I assume especially female (pro)doms would appreciate a nimbler handle.

Conclusion: Heavy & heavy duty collar with grip to control unruly slaves!
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Grip & D-ring to pull & hold back the slave securely & safely Grip is somewhat uncomfortable 2’’ Wide Version $350
3’’ Wide Version $550
Great craftsmanship
Very heavy duty feel
Lockable

Cutler X, Ray Diesel, Horny Rhino & Cockadile

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Toy Properties

Form: Realistic & Fantasy Dildo
Material: Platinum Silicone
Colors:
Various standard and many Custom colors possible
Firmness: Soft to Medium, custom degrees possible
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Mr Hankey’s Toys

I wanted to review these toys early next year so you can start out with FFun in the dark months following the candle-lit holidays. But since next Friday is Black Friday and apparently many of you want to stock up, I have gotten many questions about these toys. So I decided to review these for big and challenging brutes today before switching to bondage gear for the Advent Sundays how it has become a beloved tradition.

The Mr Hankey’s Toys Ray Diesel, Cutler X, Cockadile & Horny Rhino

Construction

All toys by Mr Hankey’s Toys are made out of platinum silicone. This material is 100% body safe, highly resistant towards acid and heat and with the super-smooth surface leave little possibilities for bacteria to linger and is easy to clean. In order to keep your silicone toys in top shape, never use it with silicone or hybrid lubes! The silicone oil inside the lube will tarnish the surface and disintegrate the material over time! Water- and oil-based lubes are fine. After play, the toy should be thoroughly cleaned. Putting them in hot water with dish soap and sanitizing them afterwards is usually enough. A lazy way is putting the dildos in a dishwasher or autoclave them.

The Vac-U-Lock Hole at the Bottom of the Horny Rhino

Silicone comes in a wide range of firmnesses. Off the rack Mr Hankey’s Toys come in two firmness degrees. The firmer is called “Medium” which is about the firmness of a fully hard penis. If you enjoy texture like me, this is the one to pick, especially if you want to feel the real deal with a realistic dildo. The softer variety is called “75%”. 75% is popular with longer toys because they bend more easily around the bends in your colon. However, the softer the toy, the easier they collapse and the harder they are to ride. In the end it comes down to personal taste if you prefer your toys to force your sphincter open or to pop through. Mr Hankey’s offer custom firmnesses for $15.95 but I have never tried that. I would only recommend this if you have a large collection of anal toys already and can imagine how a toy will feel in a certain firmness! Because the larger the toy, the firmer it will feel! So be careful not to over- or in rare cases undershoot.

Another great material property of silicone is that it takes on coloration easily for vibrant colors that don’t fade over time.  Depending on the toy, it comes in only one standard color (Cutler X in Deep Brown) or up to five (Horny Rhino & Cocikadile in Gunmetal Grey, Metallic Green, Black, Deep Brown & Natural Tan) from which you can choose with no surcharge. For $29.95 you can get custom colors or color combinations. Mr Hankey’s Toys used to make gorgeous fades where a contrast color was poured over a solid colored core. Sadly they stopped these extravagant designs and now do marbles. For the Cockadile I tried a reptile like Green & Brown marble and for the Ray Diesel a Black & Yellow. And I like both a lot!

The different Bases

While custom firmness and colors are a nice option, I highly recommend getting the toys equipped with a Vac-U-Lock hole for just $4.95. Originally designed to attach the toy to fuck machines, there are a number of nifty accessories out there for this kind of system: Handles, Strap-On harnesses, suction cups and double-dildo connectors. If you play with a partner, he can also put his finger inside the hole to guide the toy.

Cutler X

This dildo is a life-cast toy from the famous gay porn star Cutler X. Because of this, it only comes in one size. And that size is also plenty of dildo. If you every fantasized of getting plowed by Cutler X or need a silicone dong to ride while watching his porn, this toys is the way to go!

It starts out with a nicely tapered glans which ends in a double bulge rim and no glans drop. The shaft is almost perfectly straight and opens up a bit in width a bit but not in depth. It is lightly textured with shallow veins. Two massive balls form the big and sturdy base.

Comparing the Glans of the Ray Diesel & Cutler X

If it wasn’t for the massive size, I would call the Cutler X a good beginner’s toy. The tapered glans gradually opens up the anus and the straight shaft is perfect to get used to the feeling of getting fucked. But since it is a relatively big toy, you should have some experience to enjoy it. If you have this experience level, the Cutler X is a great dildo to put on a fuck machine and get plowed for hours. The shallow veins and ridges are perfect for stimulating the many nerve endings inside the anus, especially in medium firmness. Since the shaft has an oval intersection, it is a good dildo for opening up the hole. Simply twist and turn it while slowly fucking the bottom in front of you in the sling.

Much like the XXXCalibur (link to review) the Cutler X is good toy for depth training. Unlike the XXXCalibur the Cutler X has a massive base and it not head-heavy so it does not tip over. Because of this it is perfect for riding the toy and applying just the right amount of pressure when stretching your second hole.

The Cutler X costs $149.95 at MHT’s online shop.

Dimensions Glans Dimensions Middle Dimensions above Base Insertable Length Overall Length
60x57mm 72x62mm 69x68mm 282mm 350mm

Ray Diesel

Like the previous toy, the Ray Diesel is a life-cast dildo from the eponymous power top. Unlike the predecessor it comes in five sizes so you can adjust the dildo you are getting to your experience level.

The Light Texture of the Cutler X & Ray Diesel

At the top there is a dullish glans with a big and wide glans drop and bulgy transition to the shaft. The most striking feature of the shaft is its form: It is SO wide that I would almost call it oblong instead of oval. It also strongly curved. Except one bumpier vein on the top right side in the middle, the veins are even shallower and thus the texture more subtle than on the Cutler X. The ball sack forming the base is again massive. Apparently Mr. Diesel has so bug bull balls that you can hardly make out the individual testicles in the cast of his scrotum.

To make a long story short: The Ray Diesel is a butt buster! The glans with its dull tip and big drop pushes the anus open instead of gradually coercing it to open up. Over the first half of the shaft, its width increases by 30% which is a massive stretch over such short distance, also giving the rectum little rest during the process. Taking the Ray Diesel completely is a different challenge, especially in the larger sizes. Due the curvature, it has quite the strong orientation and “spring” to it. If your second hole does not lie in the direction of the dildos, its tendency to return to its cast shape will make taking it deep even more difficult than the dull glans would imply.

Riding the toy is a unique experience: If you ride it like getting fucked, the dildo enters the anus perpendicular to the natural orientation of the anus, stretching your hole HARD. If you let the dildo enter in the orientation of the anus, the curvature will push the shaft against the anus. So regardless of the orientation, the Ray Diesel will challenge your hole.

The Massive 4:3 ratio of Ray Diesel’s Shaft

In the right hands and right hole, the Ray Diesel is a toy for a steep hole opening regime. Push it in in the orientation of the hole and then slowly turn it. Due to the absurd width-depth ratio of almost 3:4 twisting only a bit will already put a lot of pressure on the anus.

Even when you are a greedy ass pig, don’t be too ambitious and let yourself be misled by the size information. The shape of the dildo makes it considerably harder to take than similarly sized dildos. Looking for a big and challenging dildo I went for the XXXL in Medium firmness since it didn’t look too big, especially compared to some of my – firm – fantasy dildos. But I can hardly take half of it and it is a quite straining experience. So my advice is to choose a smaller size if you look for still heavy but manageable FFun.

The Ray Diesel comes in five sizes starting at $129.95 for the small and ending at $219.95 for the XXXL plus extras.

Size Dimensions Glans Dimensions Middle Dimensions above Base Insertable Length Overall Length
Small 39x41mm 54x43mm 55x44mm 180mm 231mm
Medium 47x49mm 66x52mm 68x54mm 219mm 273mm
LG/ XL 54x57mm 75x59mm 76x61mm 249mm 311mm
XXL 61x64nn 84x66mm 86x68mm 279mm 343mm
XXXL 68x71mm 96x74mm 96x76mm 311mm 385mm

Horny Rhino’s Glans

Horny Rhino

Unlike the to previous toys, the Horny Rhino isn’t a life-cast toy. It isn’t even sculptured after a rhino penis (doing zoological research for these reviews is… interesting). But nevertheless, it is a literally a horny toy to play with!

It starts with a dullish glans that looks like peaking out of foreskin. The foreskin rim is textured with little bumps. From the bottom of the foreskin two thick strains wrap around the shaft to the front. In the middle, the shaft bulges outward a bit. To add even more girth, there are two thick lateral strains. This leads to a basic shape of two bulges being stacked on top of each other if you look at the dildo from the top. The shaft ends in a pocket-like sheath which is a final, massive stretch before you can rest on a wide round base. The entire dildo is textured with horizontal folds and wrinkles. To add even more texture, there are several medium-thick veins running perpendicularly.

The Texture and Complex Shape of the Horny Rhino

The Horny Rhine is a toy for texture junkies! The many crossing over textures on the shaft stimulate – or torment if riding the toy quickly – the anus.  The complex shape leads to a wave-like flow of stretch and tightening which stimulates the anus even more. This is of course best enjoyed lying in a sling or being in doggy position and a top handling the toy. Twisting the toy inside the bottom adds a new layer of possible sensations. One top managed to prostate milk his chaste sub with the strains. To fully enjoy this overflow of sensations you should be well-stretched. The dull glans does not make taking the toy easy and the texture will make the anus tighten up again.

Surprisingly, the Horny Rhine goes deep relatively easily (if you second hole opens up to the dull glans and does not clench due to the stimulation). The complex shape of strains and bulges create predetermined bending points for the dildo following the rectal anatomy. So even my medium firmness Rhino dildo went deep easily.

You can get the Horny Rhino in four sizes from small starting at $129.95 to XL for $192.95 + extras at the MHT online shop.

Size Diameter Glans Diameter Fist Bulge Diameter Second Bulge Diameter Third Bulge Insertable Length Overall Lenght
Small 42mm 48mm 56mm 58mm 209mm 235mm
Medium 50mm 57mm 67mm 70mm 251mm 277mm
Large 58mm 67mm 80mm 84mm 298mm 323mm
XL 72mm 79mm 93mm 96mm 337mm 368mm

The Different Textures on the Cockadile

Cockadile

Over the first waves of COVID alligators and crocodiles have gotten some cultural significance in the gay scene (Flat Fuck Friday anyone?). So it was only a question of time until the first reptile inspired dildo came out. And here we are with the Cockadile.

Basically this dildos is the stylized torso of a crocodile. It starts out with a pointy, snout-like glans. Following a short neck the shaft has the shape of a flattened barrel make the intersection oval. It sits on a round and wide base. While the shape sounds not spectacular, the texture is the highlight of this dildo! On top of the shaft runs a thin band of full-size scales worthy of an Hermes Birkin Bag. The flanks feature very small scales. To also make this side interesting, there are a number of bumps. The bottom is flat with wide ridges. Finally the glans is jagged and features small scales like on a real critter.

The Snout-Like Glans of the Cockadile

Due to the pointy glans the Cockadile is easy to take so it is a great to get into texture play. Unlike the Horny Rhine the basic shape is not that complex so it is easier to take and you can focus on the texture. The texture is complex and plentiful enough for an intense stimulation of the anus. The bumps on the side give a bit of added stretch but not too much to make the anus clench.  A beginner should take the dildo aligned with the anus to there is a more “scratchy” side (= the more textured top). If you are more experienced and lie relaxed in the sling, it is worth to let your top fuck you with the Cockadile perpendicularly. The big scales on top scratching the prostate is very hot! Similarly to the Horny Rhino the Cockadile is relatively easy to take deep because the snout bends quite easily.

Depending on the size, the Cockadile can be yours from the MHT online shop from between $129.95 and $208.94 plus extras.

Size Dimensions Glans Dimensions Middle Dimensions Above Base Insertable Length Overall Length
Small 44x41mm 58x53mm 54x50mm 209mm 241mm
MD/ LG 55x52mm 72x66mm 68x62mm 260mm 295mm
XL 66x62mm 87x79mm 81x74mm 311mm 345mm
XXL 76x71mm 100x91mm 94x85mm 359mm 404mm