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Agitation Collar

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The Mako & Tiger 2“ Agitation Collar

Vendor: Mako & Tiger

Design

What makes this collar stick out that it’s HEAVY! Without the lock it weights slightly over 600g. This is (thin) metal collar territory! The weight comes from its heavy duty construction: In the middle of this multi-layer construction is the collar itself, a piece of bridle leather is lined with firm yet comfortable padding which is covered with garment leather.  The garment leather comes in black, red or blue. The piping of the lining is slightly wider than the bridle leather so even when the collar is fastened tightly, the unburnished edges don’t scratch the skin. Below the lining two screws (not rivets!) each hold the flaps in place which house the massive, burnished steel roller buckles and guiding loops for the belt.  The belt surrounding the collar is made out of two layers 3.5mm thick bridle leather. The two ends of the belt are punched with two rows of three holes each.

The D-Ring with the Branded Protective Flap

In the center of the belt which marks the back of the collar a leather flap embossed with Mako & Tiger’s paw brand sign is sewed. It covers the thick 6mm thick stainless steel D-ring which is 45mm wide and 32mm deep.

What makes this collar an agitation collar is the grip what is sewed onto the back of the belt. It is as wide as the belt and in the middle also double-layered. When I first showed my testees this collar they are a bit puzzled that it was sewed and not riveted/ screwed onto the belt as a seam for them meant something that could come apart. The stitching is so high quality, the yarn to thick and strong that none had fears that things would come apart, even with the most unruly, agitating subs!

The Supplied Padlock locking the Agitation Collar

For locking the collar, there are two options: The more elegant one is the Segufix lock. On this version the belt holes are pushed over a Segufix lock pin and shackled with a standard Segufix lock. But of course any sub with access to a strong magnet and a free hand can undo this. More secure and heavy looking is order this collar without the pin. Then you pull the shackle of a padlock through both belt ends and close it. This way the collar is most definitively secured around the slave’s neck and you can use your keyed-alike padlock set you already have in place in your dungeon. But don’t lose the key! The thick, multi-layer design makes cutting through the collar with safety sheers or emergency knifes almost impossible. If you don’t have a key-aliked padlock system in your playspace,

The Sewed on Multi-Layered Grip

The collar also comes in two sizes: 50mm/ 2’’ width which I have or 75mm/ 3’’ which can double as a posture collar! When choosing the collar width, please be realistic. Because of the many layers of thick leather, it takes forever to break this collar in and it will never get as flexible as a “normal” bondage collar from Mr S for example. So if it fits too tightly between shoulders and chin, the unburnished edges of the stiff leather can scratch a bit, not to talk about the metal trim of the buckles.  When ordering the collar, you have to supply a neck circumference. There is some leeway up and down this sizing so it fits somewhat smaller and bigger collar sizes. But in order to work well, the fit should be good. So more than any other piece of bondage gear, this is really something the sub should own for a perfect fit instead of a dom keeping in his playroom as a one-size fits all. If you want to do the latter, 16’’ is the most common collar size. Smaller twinks have around 14½’’, big bears around 17’’.

 

One of the Two Roller Buckles

Playing with the Agitation Collar

 

Like many BDSM toys, agitation collars come from the vanilla world. They were originally designed to train wild puppies or control sharp dogs – the bio not the fetish kind.

Even “just” the 50mm version has an air of heavy duty around it! The many layers of thick leather, the big, burnished roller buckles, the big padlock dangling in the front (or the – ideally – red Segufix lock cap) creates an atmosphere of seriousness. This is also enhanced by the way it is fettered around the subs neck: Since the belts meet in the front, a kneeling slave has to look up to his master while he adjusts the two buckles so it sits right in the middle of the neck and ultimately locks the collar. Like with all lockable gear, hearing the click of the lock adds a lot of psychological momentum. This is even enhanced when during play the dandling lock hits the sternum. If you want to facilitate that, buy a long-shackled lock with a thinner wire so it moves around more. If you want to mark you dog visibly, you have to lock the dog tag also shackle because there is no D-ring on the front.

Example of the Many Bridle Leather Layers

Besides humiliating and restricting the neck movement through the collar, the piece de résistance  is the grip on the back. It really allows to – somewhat – comfortably grab the neck of the sub – either holding him back or drag him towards where he has to be (like a hole to rim or a dick to suck…). The collar distributes the pulling force quite evenly. Of course, it is felt strongly but this Agitation Collar is the most comfortable and thus safest one I have experienced so far. This of course also applies for attaching a leash to the D-ring at the back. So if you have an unruly puppy that wants to jump at people, keeping him on a short leash works well with this collar. Despite being so thick and stiff, the collar can be worn comfortable over extended periods of time.

The Double-Layered Grip to Pull or Hold the Slave

The “somewhat comfortable” is directed towards the dom. Being made out of STIFF bridle leather, the grip is not really comfortable to grab with its unburnished and undeburred edges. I tried to soften mine using neatsfoot oil but had limited success. Over time it will get a bit more broken in, but since it is double-layered at the center, it can only get so soft. At least the sharp edges are not a problem if you like me play almost always (leather) gloved as a top. A bigger issue is the width, especially on the 3’’ wide version: The top has to grab a 75mm wide, not really compressing piece of leather. For guys with smaller hands this is almost impossible. I have already given feedback to Mako & Tiger and maybe in the future there will be an about 1’’ wide bridle leather grip sheathed with garment leather. I assume especially female (pro)doms would appreciate a nimbler handle.

Conclusion: Heavy & heavy duty collar with grip to control unruly slaves!
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Grip & D-ring to pull & hold back the slave securely & safely Grip is somewhat uncomfortable 2’’ Wide Version $350
3’’ Wide Version $550
Great craftsmanship
Very heavy duty feel
Lockable

Cutler X, Ray Diesel, Horny Rhino & Cockadile

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Toy Properties

Form: Realistic & Fantasy Dildo
Material: Platinum Silicone
Colors:
Various standard and many Custom colors possible
Firmness: Soft to Medium, custom degrees possible
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Mr Hankey’s Toys

I wanted to review these toys early next year so you can start out with FFun in the dark months following the candle-lit holidays. But since next Friday is Black Friday and apparently many of you want to stock up, I have gotten many questions about these toys. So I decided to review these for big and challenging brutes today before switching to bondage gear for the Advent Sundays how it has become a beloved tradition.

The Mr Hankey’s Toys Ray Diesel, Cutler X, Cockadile & Horny Rhino

Construction

All toys by Mr Hankey’s Toys are made out of platinum silicone. This material is 100% body safe, highly resistant towards acid and heat and with the super-smooth surface leave little possibilities for bacteria to linger and is easy to clean. In order to keep your silicone toys in top shape, never use it with silicone or hybrid lubes! The silicone oil inside the lube will tarnish the surface and disintegrate the material over time! Water- and oil-based lubes are fine. After play, the toy should be thoroughly cleaned. Putting them in hot water with dish soap and sanitizing them afterwards is usually enough. A lazy way is putting the dildos in a dishwasher or autoclave them.

The Vac-U-Lock Hole at the Bottom of the Horny Rhino

Silicone comes in a wide range of firmnesses. Off the rack Mr Hankey’s Toys come in two firmness degrees. The firmer is called “Medium” which is about the firmness of a fully hard penis. If you enjoy texture like me, this is the one to pick, especially if you want to feel the real deal with a realistic dildo. The softer variety is called “75%”. 75% is popular with longer toys because they bend more easily around the bends in your colon. However, the softer the toy, the easier they collapse and the harder they are to ride. In the end it comes down to personal taste if you prefer your toys to force your sphincter open or to pop through. Mr Hankey’s offer custom firmnesses for $15.95 but I have never tried that. I would only recommend this if you have a large collection of anal toys already and can imagine how a toy will feel in a certain firmness! Because the larger the toy, the firmer it will feel! So be careful not to over- or in rare cases undershoot.

Another great material property of silicone is that it takes on coloration easily for vibrant colors that don’t fade over time.  Depending on the toy, it comes in only one standard color (Cutler X in Deep Brown) or up to five (Horny Rhino & Cocikadile in Gunmetal Grey, Metallic Green, Black, Deep Brown & Natural Tan) from which you can choose with no surcharge. For $29.95 you can get custom colors or color combinations. Mr Hankey’s Toys used to make gorgeous fades where a contrast color was poured over a solid colored core. Sadly they stopped these extravagant designs and now do marbles. For the Cockadile I tried a reptile like Green & Brown marble and for the Ray Diesel a Black & Yellow. And I like both a lot!

The different Bases

While custom firmness and colors are a nice option, I highly recommend getting the toys equipped with a Vac-U-Lock hole for just $4.95. Originally designed to attach the toy to fuck machines, there are a number of nifty accessories out there for this kind of system: Handles, Strap-On harnesses, suction cups and double-dildo connectors. If you play with a partner, he can also put his finger inside the hole to guide the toy.

Cutler X

This dildo is a life-cast toy from the famous gay porn star Cutler X. Because of this, it only comes in one size. And that size is also plenty of dildo. If you every fantasized of getting plowed by Cutler X or need a silicone dong to ride while watching his porn, this toys is the way to go!

It starts out with a nicely tapered glans which ends in a double bulge rim and no glans drop. The shaft is almost perfectly straight and opens up a bit in width a bit but not in depth. It is lightly textured with shallow veins. Two massive balls form the big and sturdy base.

Comparing the Glans of the Ray Diesel & Cutler X

If it wasn’t for the massive size, I would call the Cutler X a good beginner’s toy. The tapered glans gradually opens up the anus and the straight shaft is perfect to get used to the feeling of getting fucked. But since it is a relatively big toy, you should have some experience to enjoy it. If you have this experience level, the Cutler X is a great dildo to put on a fuck machine and get plowed for hours. The shallow veins and ridges are perfect for stimulating the many nerve endings inside the anus, especially in medium firmness. Since the shaft has an oval intersection, it is a good dildo for opening up the hole. Simply twist and turn it while slowly fucking the bottom in front of you in the sling.

Much like the XXXCalibur (link to review) the Cutler X is good toy for depth training. Unlike the XXXCalibur the Cutler X has a massive base and it not head-heavy so it does not tip over. Because of this it is perfect for riding the toy and applying just the right amount of pressure when stretching your second hole.

The Cutler X costs $149.95 at MHT’s online shop.

Dimensions Glans Dimensions Middle Dimensions above Base Insertable Length Overall Length
60x57mm 72x62mm 69x68mm 282mm 350mm

Ray Diesel

Like the previous toy, the Ray Diesel is a life-cast dildo from the eponymous power top. Unlike the predecessor it comes in five sizes so you can adjust the dildo you are getting to your experience level.

The Light Texture of the Cutler X & Ray Diesel

At the top there is a dullish glans with a big and wide glans drop and bulgy transition to the shaft. The most striking feature of the shaft is its form: It is SO wide that I would almost call it oblong instead of oval. It also strongly curved. Except one bumpier vein on the top right side in the middle, the veins are even shallower and thus the texture more subtle than on the Cutler X. The ball sack forming the base is again massive. Apparently Mr. Diesel has so bug bull balls that you can hardly make out the individual testicles in the cast of his scrotum.

To make a long story short: The Ray Diesel is a butt buster! The glans with its dull tip and big drop pushes the anus open instead of gradually coercing it to open up. Over the first half of the shaft, its width increases by 30% which is a massive stretch over such short distance, also giving the rectum little rest during the process. Taking the Ray Diesel completely is a different challenge, especially in the larger sizes. Due the curvature, it has quite the strong orientation and “spring” to it. If your second hole does not lie in the direction of the dildos, its tendency to return to its cast shape will make taking it deep even more difficult than the dull glans would imply.

Riding the toy is a unique experience: If you ride it like getting fucked, the dildo enters the anus perpendicular to the natural orientation of the anus, stretching your hole HARD. If you let the dildo enter in the orientation of the anus, the curvature will push the shaft against the anus. So regardless of the orientation, the Ray Diesel will challenge your hole.

The Massive 4:3 ratio of Ray Diesel’s Shaft

In the right hands and right hole, the Ray Diesel is a toy for a steep hole opening regime. Push it in in the orientation of the hole and then slowly turn it. Due to the absurd width-depth ratio of almost 3:4 twisting only a bit will already put a lot of pressure on the anus.

Even when you are a greedy ass pig, don’t be too ambitious and let yourself be misled by the size information. The shape of the dildo makes it considerably harder to take than similarly sized dildos. Looking for a big and challenging dildo I went for the XXXL in Medium firmness since it didn’t look too big, especially compared to some of my – firm – fantasy dildos. But I can hardly take half of it and it is a quite straining experience. So my advice is to choose a smaller size if you look for still heavy but manageable FFun.

The Ray Diesel comes in five sizes starting at $129.95 for the small and ending at $219.95 for the XXXL plus extras.

Size Dimensions Glans Dimensions Middle Dimensions above Base Insertable Length Overall Length
Small 39x41mm 54x43mm 55x44mm 180mm 231mm
Medium 47x49mm 66x52mm 68x54mm 219mm 273mm
LG/ XL 54x57mm 75x59mm 76x61mm 249mm 311mm
XXL 61x64nn 84x66mm 86x68mm 279mm 343mm
XXXL 68x71mm 96x74mm 96x76mm 311mm 385mm

Horny Rhino’s Glans

Horny Rhino

Unlike the to previous toys, the Horny Rhino isn’t a life-cast toy. It isn’t even sculptured after a rhino penis (doing zoological research for these reviews is… interesting). But nevertheless, it is a literally a horny toy to play with!

It starts with a dullish glans that looks like peaking out of foreskin. The foreskin rim is textured with little bumps. From the bottom of the foreskin two thick strains wrap around the shaft to the front. In the middle, the shaft bulges outward a bit. To add even more girth, there are two thick lateral strains. This leads to a basic shape of two bulges being stacked on top of each other if you look at the dildo from the top. The shaft ends in a pocket-like sheath which is a final, massive stretch before you can rest on a wide round base. The entire dildo is textured with horizontal folds and wrinkles. To add even more texture, there are several medium-thick veins running perpendicularly.

The Texture and Complex Shape of the Horny Rhino

The Horny Rhine is a toy for texture junkies! The many crossing over textures on the shaft stimulate – or torment if riding the toy quickly – the anus.  The complex shape leads to a wave-like flow of stretch and tightening which stimulates the anus even more. This is of course best enjoyed lying in a sling or being in doggy position and a top handling the toy. Twisting the toy inside the bottom adds a new layer of possible sensations. One top managed to prostate milk his chaste sub with the strains. To fully enjoy this overflow of sensations you should be well-stretched. The dull glans does not make taking the toy easy and the texture will make the anus tighten up again.

Surprisingly, the Horny Rhine goes deep relatively easily (if you second hole opens up to the dull glans and does not clench due to the stimulation). The complex shape of strains and bulges create predetermined bending points for the dildo following the rectal anatomy. So even my medium firmness Rhino dildo went deep easily.

You can get the Horny Rhino in four sizes from small starting at $129.95 to XL for $192.95 + extras at the MHT online shop.

Size Diameter Glans Diameter Fist Bulge Diameter Second Bulge Diameter Third Bulge Insertable Length Overall Lenght
Small 42mm 48mm 56mm 58mm 209mm 235mm
Medium 50mm 57mm 67mm 70mm 251mm 277mm
Large 58mm 67mm 80mm 84mm 298mm 323mm
XL 72mm 79mm 93mm 96mm 337mm 368mm

The Different Textures on the Cockadile

Cockadile

Over the first waves of COVID alligators and crocodiles have gotten some cultural significance in the gay scene (Flat Fuck Friday anyone?). So it was only a question of time until the first reptile inspired dildo came out. And here we are with the Cockadile.

Basically this dildos is the stylized torso of a crocodile. It starts out with a pointy, snout-like glans. Following a short neck the shaft has the shape of a flattened barrel make the intersection oval. It sits on a round and wide base. While the shape sounds not spectacular, the texture is the highlight of this dildo! On top of the shaft runs a thin band of full-size scales worthy of an Hermes Birkin Bag. The flanks feature very small scales. To also make this side interesting, there are a number of bumps. The bottom is flat with wide ridges. Finally the glans is jagged and features small scales like on a real critter.

The Snout-Like Glans of the Cockadile

Due to the pointy glans the Cockadile is easy to take so it is a great to get into texture play. Unlike the Horny Rhine the basic shape is not that complex so it is easier to take and you can focus on the texture. The texture is complex and plentiful enough for an intense stimulation of the anus. The bumps on the side give a bit of added stretch but not too much to make the anus clench.  A beginner should take the dildo aligned with the anus to there is a more “scratchy” side (= the more textured top). If you are more experienced and lie relaxed in the sling, it is worth to let your top fuck you with the Cockadile perpendicularly. The big scales on top scratching the prostate is very hot! Similarly to the Horny Rhino the Cockadile is relatively easy to take deep because the snout bends quite easily.

Depending on the size, the Cockadile can be yours from the MHT online shop from between $129.95 and $208.94 plus extras.

Size Dimensions Glans Dimensions Middle Dimensions Above Base Insertable Length Overall Length
Small 44x41mm 58x53mm 54x50mm 209mm 241mm
MD/ LG 55x52mm 72x66mm 68x62mm 260mm 295mm
XL 66x62mm 87x79mm 81x74mm 311mm 345mm
XXL 76x71mm 100x91mm 94x85mm 359mm 404mm

Breathing System – Capsule Injector

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Vendor: VAST

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

The VAST Breathing System Capsule Injector

After publishing my review of the Basis of the VAST Breathing System (link to review), I have gotten a couple of questions if the Capsule Injector also works with other breath play setups. In short, yes of course. For the long answer and because if you connect it directly to a gas mask you need to follow a little piece of advice, I decided give this toy a separate review.

Construction

The center of the Capsule Injector is a small 3D printed t-piece. On one side a 6l rubber breathing bag is attached, opposite of it a 50mm long gas mask hose ends in a GM40 port. Perpendicular to these things a black anodized aluminum cartridge holder for standard kitchen usage N2O cartridges is attached.

The Packaging of the Capsule Injector (comes without cartridges)

The toy comes in a beautiful heat-embossed wooden box outfitted with cut-out foam to house the toy. There are also holes for 24 cartridges so you can store them along the toy. Along with the toy itself comes a GM40 screw-on adaptor for attaching the Capsule Injector to 20mm professional breathing system tubes used in hospitals for example.

Playing with the Capsule Injector

Just by itself the Capsule Injector works as a standard 6l re-breathing bag. Of course this only works in a closed system in which you breathe in and out of the same port. Most gas masks have separate inlets and outlets which are sealed by back pressure valves. So in order to use a re-breathing bag, you need to modify them. For the most common gas mask types like the UDSSR GP-5 (commonly known as the “Russian gas mask”), AVON S10 or FM12 you can easily find guides online.

The GM40-to-20mm-Pro-Breathing-System-Adaptor

This closed-circuit breathing is also a necessity for N2O play. It gets absorbed quite slowly so it needs to rebreathed several times. Working with the capsules originally designed to power kitchen whipping siphons is usually a bit cumbersome. The Capsule Injector makes it very easy: You unscrew the bottom of the cartridge holder, put the cartridge in, screw it tightly and the gas gets released.

The Capsule Injector attached to a FM12 by a VAST Rebreather

If you are attaching the Capsule Injector directly to the gas mask or use a setup without a valve between the injector and the breathing mask, a word of warning: The pressure inside the capsule is quite high and once opened it will rush inside the bag, the tubes and also the breathing mask. This sudden increase in pressure can damage the lungs. So when popping the capsule, the bottoms mouth should be shut and he should be exhaling through his nose. This is not an optimal method but at least a bit safer. A slightly less expensive valve alternative to the VAST Rebreather (for example if you want to play with a modified Russian gas mask which currently does not work with the Rebreather) is the VAST Breathing Switch for 129€. With this you can simply switch between clean air and the Capsule Injector so all the capsule pressure goes into the bag from where it can be rebreathed safely.

A common point of criticism in the messages post the review was that the breathing bag is firmly connected to the cartridge holder instead of using a GM40 port. That way the 6l rebreathing bag could be exchanged for a smaller rebreathing bag. The 6l bag is actually necessary because one N2O capsule holds about 6l of gas. Smaller volumes would increase the pressure inside the system (see above). So when playing with N2O you are kind of stuck with 6l. If you want smaller bags, you have to pre-fill them externally where the access gas can escape before attaching the bag to the setup directly which again is a cumbersome process.

Conclusion: Innovative special purpose restraint with practical shortcoming.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Easy and safe handling of N2O play Needs separate shut-off valve in order work 100% safe VAST 119€
Comes with adaptor for professional breathing system
Cleverly designed and nice looking packaing

Pig-Hole Popper

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The Oxballs Pig-Hole Popper Jumbo Gaper, Tall & Big Gaper

Vendor: Oxballs

Toy Properties

Form: Tunnel Plug
Material: Silicone
Colors: Solid Black, Mables: Red&Orange, Blue&Teal, Lime&Olive, Purple&Lavender, Violet&Light Blue, Magenta&Pink
Firmness: Medium; does not collapse when standing up.
Lube: Water and Oil based. Silicone or hybrid lube can destroy the toy!
Cleaning: Soaking in boiling water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Expose to boiling water to kill germs
Storage: Store standing up in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damaging the toys.

When Oxballs announced that they would be releasing some new, even bigger Pig-Hoes, my inbox exploded. If had played with one yet, what my opinion on those were, how the new silicone blend compared to the old one. Against popular opinion I only very rarely get preproduction samples. So during my USA trip in September I stocked up with some new Oxballs stuff. And after some thorough review scenes, here are my thoughts.

Construction

All Pig-Hole Popper share the same basic design of Pig-Holes. The Popper Tall and Big Gaper are versions of the Pig-Hole Deep (link to review), the Jumbo Gaper is basically an Pig-Hole FF (link to review). They also keep the basic wall strength. Inside the barrel is textured with lateral ridges like on their cousins. The big different is that the outside of the barrel is not smooth but it is textured with big bumps. There are three on the Big Gaper, four on the Tall and five Bumps on the Jumbo Gaper. Like the Pig-Hole Deep and FF all Popper cannot be turned inside out.

Before I come to the dimensions, a word on the maximum dimensions. After my last Pig-Hole reviews, I have gotten a couple of messages complaining that my measurements are not accurate. The combined the Pig-Hole with a dick/ fist/ toy and the maximum dimensions were considerable larger than described. Since the silicone is flexible, it will stretch. So the toy can feel and be considerable larger than measured when stuffed!

Toy Base Bottom Opening Max. Dimensions Top Opening Insertable Length Overall Length
Big Gaper 80x93mm 37x45mm 67x68mm 33x38mm 110mm 145mm
Tall 102x116mm 47x54mm 80x86mm 43x50mm 150mm 192mm
Jumbo Gaper 87x118mm 52x67mm 105x106mm 49x64mm 107mm 150mm

The Opening of the Jumbo Gaper compared to the FF

For the Popper range, Oxballs uses a new platinum silicone blend they call “Marshmallow silicone”. Of course the material has the same material properties as every other silicone blend. It is non-toxic, hypoallergenic, easy to clean and sanitize with warm soap water.  In order not to damage the toys, only use it with water- or oil-based lubes. The silicone oil in silicone lube disintegrates the silicone over time. Firmness-wise I recall reading a Shore 00-value on Twitter. But since I cannot find the Tweet again, I am not going to quote it, especially since the value sounded quite low compared to the felt firmness. Subjectively the firmness sits between the regular Pig-Hole silicone and the Oxballs’ Morph silicone.

Colorwise Oxballs follows recent years’ trend of marbled, brightly colored anal toys. Besides the classic Solid Black, the offer six marble colors: Fire (Red & Orange), Water (Blue & Teal), Weed (Lime & Olive), Orchid (Purple & Lavender), Unicorn (Violet & Light Blue) and Rosebud (Magenta & Pink).  My Popper Jumbo is Black, the Popper Big Gaper Water and the Popper Tall’s color is Rosebud. Each marble is different with an individual color and pattern. Personally, I would have preferred my Water to have more blue and instead of the Rosebud and Black, I’d chosen Fire and Weed. But since there were so many review requests coming for these toys, I chose availability over colors.

The Bottom of the Jumbo Gaper and FF

Playing with the Pig-Hole Poppers

Despite being firmer than the Morph silicone (link to review), the Marshmallow of the Poppers is squishy yet far from the sponginess of the Marshmallows. “Firm Fudge” would probably been a better description though in regards of anal play probably not as sexy as Marshmallow.

The bumps around the barrel have two effects: First, the added texture makes taking the toy more difficult. The bumps are well rounded but the “rugged” surface keeps the toys from sliding in as easily as its smooth cousins (nota bene: I have not yet played with the Pig-Hole Squeal but I assume it’s texture will make it more difficult to take it). Second, the massive lumps around the barrel make it more rigid. Surprisingly, fisting through the Popper Jumbo Gaper is not much more difficult than through the Pig-Hole FF in regular firmness (I don’t have a Morph for comparison). This is partly due to the Marshmallow silicone being softer and the grooves between the bumps serve as expansion joints. With very small and nimble hands you can fist through the Popper Tall. The Popper Big Gaper is not fistable regardless of how small and strong the hand is!

The Bumps/ Knots of the Pig-Hole Popper

But the Big Gaper is the perfect dick sheath if you want to get knot-fucked! Most fantasy sheaths are made out of too thin, too soft silicone so they slip off easily. This is not the case with the Big Gaper! Of course with either need to grab the base while fucking or put the plug in a strap-on harness before you put in on your dick. For REALLY well-endowed guys, this might also work with the Popper Tall. Naturally, the Big Gaper is also a good fuck plug. The ridged inside the barrel will massage the glans while it slides through the tunnel.

The different Pig-Hole Popper stuffed with the Organotoy Sit-Plug, the Topped Toys Gape Keeper and SquarePeg Egg Plugs

The added spring and rigidity of the bumps makes folding the Pig-Hole Popper more difficult. If you are not extremely lose, folding the Pig-Hole is the best way to insert it. To fold the Poppers, grab the bumps on the lower end of the aperture and push those inwards. This is quite difficult with a well-lubed toy but it is the only way to decrease the diameter and make the toy more compact to push it through the sphincter. It truly is a toy for those holes who are not challenged by the larger Pig-Holes anymore.

For bottomless holes, another insertion method is putting a plug inside the tunnel and push the whole, not-collapsible Pig-Hole Popper into the hopefully well poppered bottom. You can adjust the intensity by your choice of plug: The softer and more rounded the plug, the easier will go in (for this I recommend a Topped Toys Gape Keeper [link to review] or SquarePeg Egg Plug in soft [link to review]). If you like it HARD, choose a firm Egg Plug (link to review) and/ or a plug the fills and stretched the inside of the barrel completely like the SquarePeg Acorn (link to review) or Organotoy Sit-Plug (link to review). If you grab the bottom of the Pig-Hole Popper and the stuffing plug, you can fuck the bottom with the texture and torment his sphincter and prostate by turning the combo inside his rectum. This is an intense ride but fun for texture junkies (like me).

Openings of the Pig-Hole Popper compared to old Pig-Holes

The bumps’ “texture” and larger diameter lock the Poppers quite well into the hole even when lubed handsomely. During the testing period accidentally shooting out the Pig-Hole Popper did not happen. So if you have an issue with your anus ejecting Pig-Holes, give the Poppers a try. From this angle the Big Gaper starts to make sense. My – to be frank quite greedy and experienced – testees were looking at this size a bit puzzled: Why introduce the Popper bumps onto a small toy? It is made for people not so anally experienced yet who for example want to turn their rectum into a free for urinal but fear that the trough might fall out. To learn what the different kinds of Pig-Holes are for, read my review of the Original Pig-Hole Range, the Pig-Hole Morph, the Pig-Hole FF and the Pig-Hole Deep (and yes, I am aware that I still have to review the Pig-Hole Squeal).

Bases of the Pig-Hole Popper compared to old Pig-Holes

Finally, let’s get down & dirty for some important pieces of sewer play advice. If you are faint of heart, stop reading here. From reader questions I know that quite a few of you like to play dirty with the Pig-Holes. Especially diaper peers and guys who want to surrender control completely enjoy the gaping powers of the toy. However, silicone takes on smell easily. The softer, the quicker. The longer the toy is exposed to the smell-carrying substance, the “deeper” the smell sinks into the toy. So superficial cleaning with disodorizing or sanitizing agents will not help. The good news is, the smell will fade over time. But if you have play partners who are picky about certain scents, you might want to get two Pig-Holes: One for dirty, one for clean play.

Where to buy?

You can get the Pig-Hole Popper directly at Oxballs. The Big Gaper is $99, the Tall is $159 and finally the Jumbo Gaper is $189 which is probably going to be the most popular.

VAST Breathing System – The Basis

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Vendor: VAST

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

Some components of the VAST Breathing System

For years I have been asked to review breath play toys and I refused! I deemed breath play too dangerous to make people curious to try it out, especially on the own. However, the VAST Breathing System makes breath play more controllable that I decided to review it.

Controllable does NOT mean less dangerous! Breath play is always hardcore edge play and should NEVER BE DONE ALONE! Regardless of how much you think you have thought it out and how easy breath play get with this system, never do it alone.

As a disclaimer, I have been involved in the design of the design of this system early on. Most of the elements I am basing this review on are pre-production samples on which I have been giving feedback. Except minor alterations, they represent the products you would get if you ordered elements of the system. Most of my feedback went towards adding new elements (for example the screw-in one direction valve). While I try to stay as neutral as possible when writing about this system, please always keep in mind that the feedback of my testees and me has already been taken into consideration and thus my view might be a bit more positive as it would have otherwise has been. But as always I try to describe in depth what the system can do so you decide if it is useful for your play or not.

The Medical Mask Connected to the Rebreather

This being a system of toys, I decided to split this review in at least two parts: This will cover the basic elements and in a follow up in a few weeks I talk about fun but not necessary additions.

All that being said, let’s dive into the fun.

Construction

All elements of the VAST Breathing System are 3D printed. For the first prototypes they used a dark blue polymer because it was sturdier.  They have now found a black one with equal properties so you should get all black toys with the typical silky-rough surface of a 3D printed object. This manufacturing process also explained the price: Especially the larger items take hours to print and require a lot of polymer. Due to the small numbers these toys will be made cheaper manufacturing methods like die casting is not an alternative. So like with many kink toys you have the pay a premium for premium quality toy.

The S10 Upgrade Kit

Being 3D printed, all elements fit perfectly into each other and are air-tight. The air seal is supported by the silicone grease which also makes all parts move smoothly. Every moving part comes with a little jar just in case you need to relubricate. Do not use oil based lubrication for these toys! Oil and grease will damage and destroy rubber and latex! Since the gas masks, hoses and rebreathing bags for breath play are made out of rubber, you will harm these elements permanently.

The bigger parts and sets come in nicely finished and heat-embossed wooden containers. For easy storage of the individual pieces are housed in foam skips.

The Head Gear

The system is build around the NATO GM40 standard with a 40mm thread. In order to function properly, it needs a separate in and out. This means, it does NOT work with the popular Russian gas mask (though I think they are working on something) or the German one combined with a GM40 adaptor. With some 3D printed modifications it could probably work with the new British GSR. The system was primarily designed to work with the popular British Avon S10 or Avon FM12 gas mask. If you don’t have one of these gas masks, VAST sometimes sells them. But post-Brexit they have been very difficult to get.

The S10 Exhale Valve

In order to make these gas masks ready for play, you need to take the speech membrane out of the right port and on the S10 replace the left one with the Exhale Valve (49.90€). I have gotten this valve along with S10 Upgrade Kit (239€). This kit includes not only a stainless steel tool for – hopefully – easy conversion and the Exhale Valve but also a replacement for the front insert with a screw off middle part. Instead of the middle part you can put in different tunnels with diameters of 40mm, 45mm and 50mm or holders for the Fleshlight Classic and Fleshlight GO. This kit has been sitting around my playroom for a couple of months now but I have not used it yet.  As written above, the S10 and FM12 have been very hard to get and gotten very expensive. So I have not had it in my heart to transform one of two S10 I have gotten using the kit. As soon as I have gotten my hand on another S10/FM12 I will document the transformation process and link the article here. If you every wanted to facefuck you breath controlled, gas masked bottom or turn him into a human Fleshlight, this is the way to go!

The Prototype of the Screw-In One-Way Valve

Partly why I was hesitant to modify one of my gas masks was that I already turned my FM12 into a BC one by taking the membranes out on both sides and sealed the exhale vent in the middle. However, in order for the VAST Breathing System to work, one port must be one-way. So I recommended to create a GM40 screw-in one-way valve. In the first prototype I used for this review, the valve was integrated into a gas mask hose. The last prototype was as originally suggested by me an element to be screwed between the gas mask and any hose. It is not on the website yet and I don’t know the price yet. I will update this review as soon as it is online. In the meantime, write them an e-mail. This screw-in valve of course makes every GM40 two-port breath control rubber hood (from Studio Gum for example) compatible with this system.

The Medical Mask with the Mask Splitter to seperate the In- and Exhale

If a gas mask is too much for you, you rather wear a different hood or a blindfold instead of a gas mask or want something handy to press manually onto your sub’s face, the Medical Mask (19.95€) is the way to go. It needs to be combines with the Mask Splitter (99€) which adds two GM40 ports each one-way valved to the Medical Mask. To fix the medical mask to the head, VAST developed a Head Harness (69.50€) out of the extra strong Superior Latex. The straps are long enough to accommodate even big heads. Since Superior Latex is soft and smooth like garment latex, there is little pressure on the head and you can lie on it comfortably. The buckles are small so if you lie on your side, they are noticeable but not really uncomfortable.

Being a sensual player, this is the combination I use most with the breathing system. It allows me to look into my sub’s eyes unobstructed while caressing his head or nibbling on his ears. A friend of mine is really into sleek and slick rubber drone play. He preferred the medical mask too because it was the smallest addition to the flowing lines of the seamless black rubber cocoon his subs wear.

Detail of the Labeling on the Rebreather

The Rebreather (189€)

This is the main element of the Breathing System and game changer in breath play for me!

It is a 47mm tall can with a diameter of about 100mm. In the middle sits a big, remarkable smooth-turning switch which can be gripped and operated easily even when wearing thick gloves.  Into the tin’s rim the words “intern” and “extern” are printed. Around the tin five female GM40 ports are located. Each port is also labeled on top.

Setting up the Rebreather is quite intuitive: Connect the GM40 port labeled “Breath In” with the gas mask port for breathing in, the port labeled “Breath Out” with the corresponding mask port. In order for the system to work, the airflow passing through the mask must be uni-directional! Because of this, a one-ways valve on the breathing out is essential! Finally, attach a re-breathing bag to the aptly named “Bag” port and you are ready to go.

When your sub inhales for the first time, the switch should be turned to “extern” so he draws in fresh air. Before he starts to exhale, switch to internal. Now his breath is caught in the bag and he draws his air from there. Once he needs fresh air, simple turn the switch again to “extern”, the air goes out through the port “Air Out” and fresh comes in through “Air In”.

That’s it! Very anti-climactic and simple. But that’s the beauty of this system. In the past breath play involved manually holding shut hoses, pulling off masks or unscrewing bags just in time. Timing these time-taking actions just right that there were hot enough to kick the sub’s head but timely enough to avoid panic or even worse accidents was a skill which took very long to learn. And put clumsy people like me off breath play. Now getting the sub that sweet, sweet fresh air is just a switch turn away. It makes breath play more controllable and thus safer. Let me iterate here again that this doesn’t mean you can play with the system on your own! It just makes breath play easier so the top can focus more on doing fun things to his sub.

The Wide Range of Male/Male Hoses

Since the system is built around GM40 female ports, you need hoses with male connectors on both sides. For those who have built their breath play toy bag around professional anesthetic gear, VAST made a GM40 connector (18,90€) for those hoses.  Very rarely you can find GM40 male/male hoses in military surplus stores – most hoses are male/female. If you don’t have any male/ male, VAST sells those hoses. The nice thing about those is that the connector is disconnected from the hose end in a screwcap style. So when you turn connect the elements you just have to turn the screw and not the object the port is connected to.  This makes the relatively steep price somewhat justifiable. Another advantage of these hoses is that unlike the surpluses hoses which usually have the standard length of 45cm they come in length from 10cm to 105cm.

This is nifty because one disadvantage of the system is that the elements are bulky and heavy and adding a lot of long hoses doesn’t help (especially once you start incorporating other fun elements which I will talk about in a few weeks). So using short hoses keeps the entire setup at least somewhat compact. And from a certain point on it also becomes a safety issue. Depending on the lung capacity and strength, the sub’s draft can become too weak to pull fresh air through the tubes. So in order to stay safe, I recommend staying below 150cm total length between the point where fresh air enters and the sub’s mouth.

Detail of the Capsule Injector

In order to work properly, a breathing bag needs to be attached to the port labeled “bag”. You can use professional breathing bags together with the GM40 adaptor I mentioned in the section about hoses. Some kink stores also sell breath bags with a male GM40 port attached already. Depending on sub’s size and which sports he does, the average lung capacity is between 2l and 4l (extremely sporty guys or divers manage up to 8l…).

For more elaborate play VAST developed the Capsule Injector (119€). It is a 6l breathing bag with a male GM40 connector. Once attached to the “Bag” port, it works like a standard breathing bag.  Between the connector and the bag sits aluminum cartridge holder for standard kitchen use N2O capsules. In order to introduce the gas into the system, turn the switch on the Rebreather to “extern”, put the capsule in to the cartridge holder screw it tightly so the gas fills the bag (one capsule is about 6l so the bag inflates almost completely). Once the sub has exhaled, turn the switch to “intern” and let him rebreathe the agent. Since N2O is only slowly absorbed and thus needs to be rebreathed, this is a very elegant and sophisticated method compared to the other ways the gas is usually inhaled and rebreathed.

One of the Shut Off GM40 Ports

Very long story short, the concept behind the breathing system is a simple one: Using a switch to change fresh air to rebreathing. And a few gear enthusiasts have built elaborate breath play setup in their playrooms. But they are mostly stationary and not easy to rebuilt by unskilled and/ or unhandy people. So as far as I know the VAST Breathing System is the first portable, easy and more importantly safe to use breath play system. As a clumsy person I never felt comfortable to top breath play even though I knew the science behind it and theoretically have the skills. With the Rebreather and the accompanying toys I feel safe enough to do more breathe play as a top.

This review only covers the basis of the breathing system. It includes many different tools for forced poppers huffing, breathing the smell of piss or used socks and underwear, rebreathing the breath of a fellow sub. I will take a look at these toys in a review in a few weeks.

Conclusion: Innovative special purpose restraint with practical shortcoming.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Safe to use even in extreme scenes A bit bulky & heavy VAST
High price
Very easy to use Does not work on one-port gasmasks (S10 can be converted)
Many different add-ons for elaborate setups

Survey of the Cosmos Pegasi & Solaris

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Form: Fantasy Plugs
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: Elaborate Marbles
Firmness: Ultra Soft, Soft & Firm
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: ElyX Toys

In the six years that I have been reviewing anal toys I have reviewed some huge toys. But for some readers the BIG size options of the toys I have reviewed were not large enough. So toys with ElyX I am following your request to take a look at some of the most MASSIVE toys on the market.

The ElyX Toy Solaris & Pegasi

Construction

Among my testees there was some discussion in which form category these toys belong but despite the length we settled for plugs despite the length these toys can get in larger sizes. In the end, you buy an ElyX toy to get stretched and fill full which made us lean a bit toward plug instead of (knotted) dildo.

ElyX only makes toys out of platinum silicone so they are 100% body safe and easy to clean. Though you must not use them with silicone lube because it will disintegrate the material. Making some of the biggest insertable toys on the planet is also reflected in the firmness option. Unlike other companies ElyX starts with toys in Shore 00-20 which is extremely squishy but also delicate. These toys are extremely prone for creases. They have to be stored upright and other toys must not lay on them in a used-toy bucket. Other firmness options are the common soft Shore 00-30 and the medium firm Shore 00-50.

The Vac-U-Lock and Suction Cup

All toys can be equipped with a Vac-U-Lock hole or a deep suction cup. The Vac-U-Lock is great if you are playing with a partner because you can attach a handle or he can push his finger in the hole to guide the toy. The smaller versions of the toy will work on a fuck machine. The larger one are too heavy for the rods. The deep suction cup surprised me! It is so deep and thus strong that even large toys stick to the wall. So if this is your kind of solo play style, I highly recommend it.

One of the nice properties of platinum silicone how well it takes on color and effects like UV activity or glow in the dark. The creative mind behind ElyX toys on a regular basis creates new patterns, marbles and combinations. So I recommend checking out his Twitter feed for inspiration or approach him with your own ideas.

Pegasi’s Tip

Pegasi starts out with two flattish bulbs that for the tip. The taper towards a short neck which forms into a shallow ridge on the front and the back. Left and right of these ridges are massive bulbs. Below them runs a ridge around the toy. The neck is also textured with two ridges before ending in a wide base.

While Pegasi has big yet smooth flowing texture, Solaris plays a different game. Across the top of the tip run two parallel ridges which end in what could be considered a glans rim. Left and right of the ridges are small bumps. The back of the shaft is textured by two horizontal ridges while the front features a pair of converging vertical ridges. These ridges run all the way to the base and up again until just below the horizontal ones. The encapsulate two bumps, the lower ones so large, they could be called a knot. The neck above the base is quite short but the texture will still keep the toy locked in your hole.

 

The Double Bumps Surrounded by the Ridge

Playing with Pegasi & Solaris

First things first: I have promised you BIG toys and when you look at the pics, you will probably say “They are big but not that massive.” In order for (most of) my testees and me to play with them, I chose “sensible” sizes. But you can get both toys like all ElyX toys in super-sizes. Though when they go large they also go long. So keep in mind that the texture that first tantalizes your rectum will eventually (over) stimulate your sensitive second sphincter.

Solaris‘ Tip

Despite my toys being the smaller sizes of the range, they are not for beginners. You need a trained (as in fistable!) and pre-stretched hole to really enjoy the toys.  Due to the dull tip and high level of texture, they will not gradually open up your hole or slide in easily. So if a stretching toy like the SP Egg, the OT Sit-Plug or the TT Gape Keeper fits, it is unlikely that similarly sized ElyX toy will fit.

The Pegasi is a bit more for “beginner” or people looking for a smooth sensation ride. The different textures and stretching points are stacked on top of each other so you can enjoy them individually. Solaris on the other hand is a bit chaotic with lateral bulbs next to ridges and textures being all over the place. So Solaris unleashes his full potential best in the hands of a skilled top who twists and turns the toy inside the hole. It takes some learning but once you figured the toy out, you can purposely create a bit of stimulus overload when one texture is scratching the prostate while the anus is stimulated differently. When you ride the toys, the textures are a bit all over the place.

Pegasi’s Ridges

Pegasi is made for riding! The two lateral bulges deliver a great stretching sensation. Once you go deeper, the first ridge is perfect for prostate humping/ massaging while the lower two ridges stimulate the anus. But also in the hands of a top, it reveals some hidden qualities. The bulgey tip is perfect for prostate stimulation and turning the knotty bulges inside the anus makes a great stretch sensation.

Where to buy?

You can buy all toys through ElyX’s Etsy store. There are not always all sizes and colors available. If you are interested in something particular, drop him a message.

Bastinado Special Restraints

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Bastinado Special Restraints

Vendor: McHurt

Construction

The Bastinado Special Restraints are two ankle cuffs connected in the middle by sturdy stitching. Due to using stitching instead of a rivet they cannot twist. The leather of the cuff is not padded and 50mm wide. The cuffs feature an incredible ankle size range between 16cm and 28cm circumference. So they fit equally on petit ladies and big bulls. For easy handling the cuffs are closed using a roller buckle which is covered by a leather tongue so the metal does not press into the skin. Between the cuffs a 25mm wide and 26cm long belt is securely sown.

The toy comes with another connected cuff with 20mm wide leather straps closed by roller buckles. This small restraint is made for fettering the big toes together. Again, at a circumference range between 5cm and 11cm it should fit most feet. Unlike its big brother there is no belt between the cuffs.

Comparison of the Edge Finish of the Two Parts

McHurt is famous for basic yet heavy duty BDSM toys. They source their toys in Europe so no problem with Chrome-6 leather like from cheap Asian mass manufacturer or sloppy stitching. But the leather is initially stiffer than I would expect it to be and the inside of the ankle cuffs is lined with sued which edges have not been finished. That McHurt’s supplier is capable of a higher level of refinement is shown on the toe cuff which has perfectly finished edges – except for the leather tongue which underlines the buckles. All things consider at 49.80€ you get great value for your money! But just don’t expect the level of refinement you get at Mr S or Regulation/ Fetters.

Detail of the Roller Buckle

Playing with the Bastinado Special Restraints

Hitting the soles of the feet has many names: Bastinado, falaka, dǎ jiǎoxīn or foot whipping. It has an equally long tradition in Arabian, Asian and Western punishment culture. However, if you are not good with ropes, it is hard secure the feet in a way that they don’t flinch so you can deliver the blows precisely. As their name indicates, the Bastinado Special Restraints were designed just for that.

The Sued on the Inside of the Ankle Cuffs

The big cuffs are for tying the feet of the bottom together. The wide leather is perfect for distributing the strong force legs can exert evenly on the ankle so they are comfortable yet secure. Since the restraint has not padding or body but the belt is the restraint, there is little wiggle room. So with the feet tied next to each other, the soles form an even and parallel impact surface. This is basis for controlled and evenly hit impact play. But beyond this job well done, it gets a bit difficult.

The lacking level of refinement sadly also shows how cutting corners impairs the functionality of this toy. The strap between the cuffs is supposed for tying the ankle cuffs to a bar some (!) beds have as a design feature at the foot end. Most of these bars are purely ornamental so not really made for detaining struggling feet. But even if I ignore the scarcity of this design element and its common fragility – even though it is necessary for these cuffs to properly work! – the belt position doesn’t make sense! You have to twist it 90° in order tie it to a bar running perpendicularly to the cuffs. Of course, attaching it between the cuffs is cheap and still it somehow does the trick, but it is another example of lacking refinement and cutting corners due to cost.

The Inside of the Toe Cuffs

There is a similar issue on the toe cuffs. They keep the toes securely together to form an even impact area. But the bottom can still move his feet backwards and forwards. A small D-ring for attaching a tension strap to keep them from wiggling would have been great!

Do these issues make the Bastinado Special Restraints a bad toy? No! As already written, they are great value for money. You just need to invest a little bit of thinking and effort to work out the kinks.

  1. If you don’t have a bar to attach the restraints to, run tension straps though the roller buckles and laterally fetter the cuffs to the bed frame. Don’t use the rectangular gates as attachment points! They are not welded and will bend open (replacing them with welded D-rings [or welded gates like on the Rubstraints] would be the best solution tbh).
  2. You can use a big shackle as an improvised attachment point. If the thick metal wire is a bit uncomfortable for the bottom, a narrow and soft tape sling tied in a bowline also does the trick. I have tried carabineers but they tend to turn and slip, making it more uncomfortable.

An Improvised Attachment Point for the Toe Cuffs

I cannot review this toy without talking about impact play on the feet itself. Like the hand, the foot has many delicate bones which easily shatter. There is fat tissue and almost no thick muscle tissue to dampen the kinetic energy of the impact blow. So don’t let yourself be fooled by movies where people use thick bamboo canes to punish a guy! Instead use riding crops, thin canes with medium blow intensity, floggers of strap out of not too stiff leather or padded paddles. You can also flick wooden, delrin or aluminum blades but no full blows. The danger of inflicting permanent damage is too high.

Of course, with the feet kept in place, they are in a perfect spot for having wax poured on them. Or playing with a Wartenberg wheel. Or prick soles on combination with a rolling pin. Or e-stim. There are many safe options out there to torment the soles. Just don’t be over enthusiastic when it comes to actual bastinado 😉

Conclusion: Innovative special purpose restraint with practical shortcoming.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Unique design Attachment solution of the ankle cuffs is only hypothetical McHurt 49.80€
Can be used on wide range of body types
Good value for money Toe restraints have not attachment point
No d-rings
Unsophisticated manufacturing

Unboxing Additional Components of the VAST Breathing System

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Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

In June I unboxed my MASSIVE order of the VAST Breathing System. It is a cool system, but did not really work with my already modified FM12. Way back in 2015 I modified my gasmask to allow rebreathing with two bags so air flows in and out through both sockets. So I asked the guys at VAST if they could develop a screw-in one-way valve – and along the process ordered some other new stuff from their line.

So this is my highlight of the order: A hose with an integrated one-way valve!

This way I can finally use my already modified gasmask with the breather system. Of course, I could have used the Upgrade Kit for AVON respirators but at the moment I am still having a hard time “sacrificing” one of my few, valuable S10 or FM12 to modify them so heavily.

Second highlight is the Switch. As the name says, it is an easy to turn switch between two air intakes. This is a really useful addition because now I can quickly switch between clean air or forced sniffing/ bubbling/ air reduction.

Like all larger elements of the Breathing systems it comes in a cool wooden box with foam cut-outs for easy storage. Included is silicone grease to keep the mechanic smooth and plastic care. Speaking of plastic, this is from the “new”, final production run which comes in dark, matt plastic instead of the blue one my early adopter parts were made out.

There are also two new sniffing or poppers toy out there. The larger one is the Vaporizer. Like the name implies, it is like the Vaporizer with Switch just without the switch. With this toy you are forced to sniff the odor continuously. The container is large enough to hold a jockstrap or dirty sock too.

The smaller one called Inhaler features an interesting design of air inlet and diffusion holes below a GM40 thread. It can be easily attached to any gas mask with 40mm thread but the short tube is also perfect for sticking your nose in for easy, low risk inhaling. The perfect combination in my opinion is attaching it to the Medical Face Mask with a Mask Splitter. Just push it into your (or your bottom’s) face and the person below will only inhale the vaporizing fumes from the container.

The last items are “housekeeping”: For very complex setups I needed an additional T– and Y-splitter. And hoses! You cannot have enough hoses when playing with this system. Currently I am still in the middle of the reviewing process and I am not sure you need more of shorter or longer hoses. But with hoses in 42cm, 38cm, 30cm, 26cm, 21cm, 20cm, 18cm, 14cm and 9.5cm lengths you should be covered regardless how you play.

The review will probably follow in the second half of September. So watch this space when you are interested in this kind of play.

Superior Latex Restraints (& Harnesses)

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The VAST Superior Latex Bondage Gear

Vendor: VAST

Construction

These restraints are standard cuff-style restraints. The body is 69mm wide and slightly convex. The wrist restraint body it is 220mm long, the ankle one is 320mm. Onto the body a 40mm wide belt is attached using four pairs of rivets. When the restraints are lying down, the belt bends slightly upwards. This is the “extra length” needed to comfortably wrap the restraints around the sub’s body. Between two rivet pairs a D-ring is housed. On the left side the belt ends in a roller buckle, on the other side it tapers for easy threading.

There are seven holes with 10mm spacing between the centers. The material and bonding is so strong and perfect, these restraints do not need the belt hole reinforcement rivets common on other pieces of rubber restraints (which are a pain in the ass when bending or falling out). The first hole is 75mm away from the belt tip. Due to this even in the largest setting, the belt tip goes fully through the belt loop.

For extra security you can order the restraints with a locking pin for an additional 20€. These restraints come with a two locks which look nice but can be picked with a paperclip. As always I recommend investing keyed alike, non-bras (!) locks like from ABUS or Master for your play.

The Wrist and Ankle Restraints with the Anatomically Curvature

As the name of the toy already indicates, it is made out of latex. Unlike other rubber restraints which rely on thick and stiff industrial rubber, VAST’s Superior Latex is made out of two layers of 0.8mm thick soft and smooth garment latex glued on top of a strap of aramid. So the material combines the softness of thin latex usually used to make fetish wear with the high strength of aramid. Being made out of standard 4D latex the restraints smell SO good and delicious like rubber gear shoud!

All trim like rivets, buckles, D-rings or the locking pin are made out of stainless steel. This is important because stainless steel is the only metal (well, except platinum, gold or aluminum…) which does not chemically react with rubber. This reaction, commonly called “latex cancers” makes the material soft and gooey and ultimately over time will make the material tear. Because all trim is made out of stainless steel, the restraints will withstand heavy use for many years. Stainless steel is also important because due to the design, the rivets touch the skin. Other materials could cause allergies but with stainless steel you are 99.9% safe.

Detail of the Logo and Stitching Laser Engraving

The restraints can be ordered in a wide range of different designs. The most simple is of course a single color followed by different colors on the outside and the inside or a different colored strap. There are two strip options: Either a thick stripe in the middle, slightly bigger than the belt holes or the thin stripe running 10mm inside around the belt (the option I chose for my restraints). Colorwise you can choose from the 4D Rubber range of 80 different shades to match your other gear or show your fetish by choosing a hanky color. Of course, they don’t have all colors in stock but can order them.

A nice design touch is a laser-engraved band of small lines which runs around every pieces of rubber, even the belt loop. This creates the look of stitching. Despite not adding anything functional to the restrains, it is a great design feature that adds to the overall high quality look and appeal of the restraints. Since they do the laser-engraving themselves you can customize the gear with your own tests, logos, etc..

These many customizing options mean of course that there is little to no stock. When friends ordered their harnesses and restraints it took about two weeks for their set to me made. So like with all (custom) rubber gear, plan a little bit ahead when you want it for a specific event like Folsom for example. If you want a combination or customization that’s not on your website, send them an e-mail.

Detail of the D-ring

Playing with the Superior Latex Restraints

Being standard cuff-style restraints, they are a good basis for almost every non-rope bondage layout. They are easy to handle and fetter the sub securely. You can really tell that they have been designed by perverts for perverts. With two D-rings you can easily brace the restraints in an elaborate rope or tension strap layout. The slightly convex design of the restraint body hugs the joint anatomically correct. The tapered tip of the belt makes threading it through the roller buckle and the belt loop quick and easy.

So far, they behave like every other leather and rubber restraint I have reviewed on this website. But due to being made out of soft latex they are the most flexible and tightest closable restraints in my collection. Since two layers of 0.8mm thick latex are glued together they have just the right level of stiffness to not flap or wobble around. The edges are not deburred but straight cut. Unlike with thick industrial rubber this is not a problem. None of my testees and friends who have been using Superior Latex gear for quite some time now encountered chafing on the skin or scratches on rubber gear from these restraints. Even when the sub is struggling hard, the restraints are detaining him without digging into the flesh. All things considered, they are comfortable and secure over extended periods of time.

The Tapered Tip of the Belt Threaded through The Belt Loop

Speaking of struggling hard, the restraints can take a beating. I have fettered subs who are notorious for trashing bondage gear in them and they still look like new. To really test them, I attached my suspension harness to them and put a sub in it. Another top friend incorporated them into a suspension bondage layout.  These are borderline cases and you should at least try the latter two not at home if you are not very versed in suspension bondage. But these little experiments show how strong these restraints really are.

The friends who have ordered these restraints all bought the locking versions. Once locked around the wrist and ankles of a full rubber gimp, he cannot take his gear off anymore and is encapsulated in his rubber prison. While this of course can also be done with locking leather restraints, being made out of shiny latex they do not obstruct the sleek, polished look of a rubber gimp but blend into it. When I got mine, the locking option was not available yet so my restraints are not lockable (early adopter problem). But since the premium is so little, I would always recommend getting to lockable version!

The Roller Buckle

Being made out of latex, this bondage gear requires the same care as every piece of rubber gear. Rubber is easily damaged by oils like in perfume and fat. So do not expose this gear to Crisco for example. Since human skin has a slight layer of oils and fat, you need to wash the restraints after putting them on bare skin (that being said, full rubber gimps with gloves do not have to do this ;)). I recommend special rubber detergent like VAST’s Wonder Wash for this but you can also use dish soap as long as it is not moisturizing or scented! Afterwards let it dry to avoid mold and treat it with silicone oil to care for the material and make it shiny. The gear should be stored in a dark, not too hot place.

Currently, these restraints are only available for neck, wrists and ankles. Hopefully in the (near) future the product range will be extended at least to biceps and thigh restraints (and maybe a fashionable thin biceps strap with small effect D-rings because even the smoothest of upper arm restraints is constraining when punch fisting someone…).

The Bulldog Harness on me

Superior Latex Harnesses

There is however a product category which borders restraints: Harnesses. If you have been following this website for some time, you know that I do not recommend fetish gear/ wear because which cut & fit turns somebody on is highly individual. However, I am going to make an exception here. Especially since a harness is only half fetish fashion accessory, half handle a top can grab to pull a sub towards him or hold onto while railing a bottom HARD.

For years I have been looking for a rubber bulldog harness. Since latex and rubber are fragile materials, none of the options available spoke to me. But I also do not like to mix leather and rubber, so wearing one of my leather ones wasn’t an option. Luckily VAST also makes three different harness designs in their Superior rubber: A classic bulldog (my favorite), a pet walking harness with a BIG d-ring for attaching a leash on the back and finally a Y-harness, perfect for attaching pieces of the Breather system to it or with a bit of rope (or tensions straps) to tie a torso down.

As I have written, style and fit preferences are highly individual. But if you are in the market for a heavy duty, intense play withstanding rubber harness, give them a try (on)!

Personally, I was surprised how well both bulldog and Y-harness looked on my body. When I have bought my first leather harness, I tried eight different ones before finding one that looked good on me…

Conclusion: Strongest, most flexible and customizable rubber bondage gear on the market.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Extremely strong yet comfortable to wear Limited range of restraints (for the moment) Wrist Restraints Starting at 119€
Ankle Restraints Starting at 124€
2 D-rings Collar Starting at 89€
High level of customizability Bulldog Harness Starting at 199€
Sleek design Y-Harness Starting at 199€
Pet Walking Harness Starting at 269€

Mako & Tiger Agitation Collar

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The 3“ Agitation Collar from Mako & Tiger

Sometimes I get the question if I knew toys to really HANDLE a sub. Especially in the aggro and prison play scene there is a demand for toys to grab the bottom/ brat/ resisting switcher or top and drag him to his knees, the dick or hold him down while destroying his ass. For this kind of scenes even a short leash will not do it because it has too much slack. There used to be a few gags with a grip in front but teeth are surprisingly frailer than you might expect. So they weren’t the best idea.

Collars with a handle have long been popular in dog training but to my surprise have not been adopted wildly into the kink world. One model that comes with high praise from friends but I have not yet had a chance to try out myself is the Agitation Collar from Mako & Tiger. When I studied in the USA some 9 years ago I had the pleasure of meeting Mako. He’s a heavy (bondage) player and thus knows how high quality gear needs to be designed for heavy scenes.

The Agitation Collars can be Locked using a Pad or a Segufix Lock

The body of this collar is made out of thick and sturdy bridle leather. Depending on the version it is either 50mm or 75mm tall. The latter can probably double a bit as a posture collar. The inside is lined with padding wrapped in soft garment leather for a comfortable fit. For quick and easy shackling the collar is adjusted and closed with a roller buckle. For secure collaring this piece of neck gear can be locked and comes with a Segufix option.

But the piece de resistance is the wide handle in the back of the collar. It is made out of the same bridle leather but friends who have been using this collar for quite some time now told me that is it treated with mink oil and thus comfortable to hold onto. My friends also tell me that the draft is distributed evenly even when tugging on the collar with force. The same should also apply when a leash is attached to the big d-ring which is laterally placed below the handle.

The Handle and D-Ring on the 3“ Agitation Collar

These are big claims which I look forward to test in a review in some point in time. This curiosity especially applies to the fact that there are no rivets used to construct this collar. Everything is “just” sown together which if done well is sufficient. I have already a heavily resisting bottom in mind to try this gear out on.

But for the moment I trust the recommendation I get from experienced, heavy duty players I have known for years. So when you are in the market for a strong, heavy duty collar with a grip to handle your sub, check out the Agitation Collar from Mako & Tiger. At $350 for the 2’’ version and $450 for the 3’’ version they are not inexpensive but from what I have been told worth every cent as gear that will last you for years of heavy play.