Stony & Walton

Form: Fantasy dildos
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: Many
Firmness: Soft to Firm
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Jack O’Toy

Back from vacation hiatus and sick leave – right into the Pride season. This means almost every weekend I will be on the go, demonstrating for LGBTQ+ rights. So not sure if I will be able to keep the one review per week schedule. But enough of gazing into a crystal ball and off to France…

Jack O’Toy’s Walton & Stony

Construction

Jack O’Toy is the next manufacturer in this small (and completely incomplete!) stroll through Europe’s anal toy manufacturer. Like all manufacturer in this special their toys are made out of pure platinum silicone. The most important feat of this material is that it is 100% body safe unlike PVC/ vinyl/ “real touch” or whatever clever name it is given or rubber. It also has advantageous playwise. The surface is super smooth so there is less friction when going in. It also keeps bacteria from lingering and easy to clean, making it a perfect material for group play when the toy needs to be cleaned quickly between partners. Simply wash with warm dish soap water (the warmer the better), rinse, dry and spray sanitizer on it. If you want to be extra sure, you can autoclave platinum silicone toys too. However a little pinch is that such toys must only be used with water- or oil-based lubes. The silicone oil inside silicone lube will disintegrate the toy over time and makes the surface sticky. Regardless if you have exposed your toy to platinum silicone or kept it in best shape, silicone is always a bit sticky. So it will attract flint and dust quite easily.

The Vac-U-Lock Hole on Stony’s Bottom

When it comes to customization, Jack O’Toy offers a wide. Firmness-wise you have three choices from soft (Shore A2) over medium (Shore A5) to firm (Shore A10) which is a more traditional, Bag Dragon-like firmness scale (their firm is Shore A8) and not like other manufacturer which lean to the softer side. The color range features 38 colors from standards solids over UV reactive to sparkling ones. These colors can be put into several patterns from solid over splits to marbles. For the colors of my two toys Jack O’Toy employed a technique previously done also by Mr Hankey’s Toys: Having a monochrome outer layer of varying thickness over a monochrome core. The varying thickness creates different hues and a very subtle marble pattern. It a very unique, interesting and sophisticated look! Sadly Mr Hankey’s Toys does not do this technique anymore because it is very difficult and time consuming. So I am very happy that Jack O’Toy offers it. If you are a collector and don’t have a toy in this technique, get one toy from France!

The Bumps texturing Stony’s Body

You can order the toys with a Vac-U-Lock hole. If you know my reviews, you know, that I strongly recommend getting it! If is a good way to guide a toy when you put a finger into it while fucking you bottom. There are also so many accessories like handles or suction cups for it making it a very universal tool. Speaking of suction cup: Jack O’Toys offer suck on suction cups made out of silicone. They look interesting but I had not have a chance to play with them. If you have experience, send me an e-mail!

One of the most frequent questions I get about new toy manufacturer is their manufacturing quality. Jack O’Toy’s toys are very well made. The color distribution is very good, even small details are finely wrought, the surface is flawless with no burst bubbles and there are no rough areas or overly frayed edges at the bottom. It lies in the nature of the material to create rough edges at the bottom. They can be evened out like for example Bad Dragon does. However since you do not see them, they do not impair the functionality of the toy and if they are within limits, I am giving them a pass. If they annoy you, you can deburr silicone toys with a sharp knife.

The Canine Inspired Glans of Walton

This manufacturing quality actually surprised me: Jack O’Toy’s specialty are heavily textured toys which are a pain in the ass to get out of the pouring form. This process can easily tarnish a toy. But as I wrote they are flawless, even in a firm material like the Shore A10 mine are made out of. Kudos for that!

This leads a bit to the big elephant in the middle of the room: His toys are relatively small. My two toys are “large” and compared to almost every other manufacturer they are medium sized at best (if you shop at size queen manufacturer they might even qualify as small). On the one hand it is great for novices or people who do not want to outstretch their orifices too much to have access to heavily textured toys. But before you order, check the size chart thoroughly. Otherwise you might be disappointed.

The Crystal Column at the Back of Stony’s Shaft

For the time being Jack O’Toy does not plan to make (X)XL toys – which I can understand. It must be impossible to get these toys out of the shape. But if you are (dark) red hanky flagging guy, these toys might sadly be a tad bit small for you.

Playing with Stony & Walton

Stony starts out like a realistic dildo. He has a nicely tapering, big glans without a glans drop. From the two very subtle bulges below the top of the glans I assume he is an uncut guy. The shaft is a straight column. So much for a realistic dick.

But the shaft is textured with a cluster of geode shapes bumps. The is a line of for running down the ventral grove, the others are wildly scattered over the shaft. To underline the theme of being a stone creature shallow cracks run over the shaft. But you will not feel these amid the intense stimulation of the bumps.

At the bottom of the top a cluster of crystal pillars is growing out of the base. At the front two massive balls which are lightly textured with bumps and cracks make for a sturdy stand even when riding the toy hard.

Stony’s Nicely Tapering Glans

Riding Stony vigorously requires a good stretch and much relaxation because the texture is intense. Because of the chaotic array, there is no “easy” angle to take it. Everywhere is intense stimulation which is you are into this kind of thing, makes Stony a great toy. But texture also creates friction and tension of the anus so he is not an easy toy to take. However, there are two sweet spots: For the prostate owner, ride the ridges of the ventral grove for an almost saw like stimulation. For the front hole owner, according to my FtM testees the crystal columns are good for clitoris stimulation. Regardless if stuffing Stony into your front or rear hole, twisting him and letting the bumps stimulation the sensitive mucosa is horny fun!

Walton on the other hand plays a different game. His glans is very dull with a little tip towards the bottom – like glanses of canines are. It is bulgey which creates quite the glans drop. This shaft is barrel shaped and textured with many veins.

Walton’s Barrel Shaft and MASSIVE Knot

Being barrel shaped it tapers at the bottom again above the THICK knot. This leads to a knot-to-shaft-above-knot ration of an insane 1:1.9. As I wrote, size-wise Walton’s shaft is not that big. But that knot? Holy fuck! It can compete with grown-up knots from other manufacturer, especially considering the ration relevant for the knotting! If you are a novice and want an intense knotting despite not being quite there yet, get Walton in soft and try to work him in.

Like all canine toys Walton has a short straight neck for resting and enjoying the feeling of a thick knot locked inside oneself. Though I would not recommend to enjoy this feeling for too long because then you hole might tense up again. The this neck is even small leading to an absurd knot-to-neck ratio if 1:2.1!

Walton’s Thin Base. As you can see the shaft leans backwards.

The base is quite thin. As a counterpoint there are two massive, untextured balls. But still, the base is too unstury for riding Walton, especially when you struggle to take the knot. My recommendation is to buy a suction cup and back against the wall if you still learn to take Walton easily.

Where to buy?

Since all Jack O’Toy toys are custom made, you can only order them from their website. They have stock drops on a regular basis and run promotion on ready made toys. So follow their Twitter to keep up.

Hector & Wairu

Form: Fantasy dildos
Material: Platinum Silicone.
Colors: Many
Firmness: Soft to Medium
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Blackfang Labs Hector & Wairu

Vendor: Blackfang Labs

Last week’s toys came from Berlin in the Eastern part of Germany, this week these two handsome brutes are coming from Düsseldorf which is in the far West of Germany.

Construction

Like all toys in this Anal Toy Special the dildos by Blackfang Labs are made out of pure platinum silicone. This means they are not only a 100% body safe unlike cheaper materials like PVC or rubber. Their surface is also super smooth which keeps bacteria from lingering and makes insertion and cleaning easy. Simply wash with hot dish soap water, rinse, dry, spray a sanitizer on it and you are ready to go again. This makes platinum silicone toys perfect for orgies. They are quick and easy to clean between partners. In order to preserve these properties they must not be used with silicone lube because the silicone oil will disintegrate the surface and make it sticky! Water or oil-based lubes are fine. So you can infuse your water-based lube with essential oils if desired.

The Cavernous Bodies and Ventral Groove Texturing Hector’s Short Shaft

When silicone toys started to become a major thing some 10 years ago the softer end of the spectrum was the most popular one. Blackfang Labs sticks to this trend with their soft being Shore 00-30 (a bit softer than Topped Toys for example), medium being Shore 00-40 and firm Shore 00-50 which is still relatively soft.

What set Blackfang Labs toys apart from other silicone toys is the coloring. DarkRat, the artist behind the toys has an extraordinary eye for beautiful fades. He combines bold colors in striking contrasts or layers soft tones in subtle fades creating some of the most amazing silicone sculptures out there. When I see his drops in Twitter , I am sometimes tempted to buy a toys just because the colors so vividly and seducing. Another specialty are multi-color marbles. They are more complicated than they might appear. Colored silicone easily blends creating mushy messes. In Kai’s marbles you can really see the different colors dancing around each other like in an abstract expressionist painting. It’s like K.O. Götz and Jackson Pollock started to collaborate on anal toys.

Wairu’s BIG Suctionc Cup

Just like the coloring the product quality is spotless! The surface is even without popped bubbles, rough areas or overly frayed edges at the bottom. Since after last week’s review I have gotten a couple messages about these frayed edges: It lies in the nature of the material to create rough edges at the bottom. They can be evened out like for example Bad Dragon does. However since you do not see them, they do not impair the functionality of the toy and if they are within limits, I am giving them a pass. If they annoy you, you can deburr silicone toys with a sharp knife.

For most of their toys, Blackfang Labs offers the option of a suction cup. Their suction cup is deep and taking up the entire base for a strong and secure suction. This is an option you should always order then possible. If riding a toy sitting on the floor for maximum sphincter and colon relaxation it keeps the toy from sliding away. If you prefer a more “natural” knotting position in doggy style, you can stick it to your shower wall without falling off or sliding down.

Hector’s Pointy Glans

Blackfang Labs offers two toys or rather tools which I have not ever played with but which are sounding interesting: First a double-sided suction cup to mount suction-cupless toys to a flat surface. This is a brilliant idea for toys which do not have this nifty feature. It is likely I might actually recommend this feature over a vac-u-lock suction cup because having a silicone foot will feel more organic than a firm plastic one. Also, it looks like the double-sided suction cup can bend a bit so it might adjusts more easily to your body movement. However, the cup has a diameter of 57mm so you must at least have base diameter of I guess 62mm for it to securely attach to making it feasible only for larger toys. Also it would be interesting to see how the different firmness degrees effect the suction and stability performance. The other vac-u-lock replacing accessory is a grip with a suction cup attached to it. This cup has a little bit smaller diameter at 54mm so will go with more toys. But even at Shore 00-50 I am not sure how usable or rather wobbly the grip will be. Yet, at 30€ each for a two-tone toy they are not too expensive. Maybe in the future I will take a look at them in another review.

Hector’s MASSIVE Knot

Playing with Hectore & Wairu

As the name might imply – at least for Germans – Hector is inspired by canine gentiles.  A husky to be precise. He starts out with a pointy tip of a bulgy circle on top of a tapering stump. The shaft is textured with two lateral bulging cavernous bodies which are very lightly textured with veins. On the bottom runs a faint ventral groove and there is a little more bulgy groove on the top. The shaft slightly tapers towards the knot.

The Intense Texture on Hector’s Long Neck

The knot is really extreme on Hector! While on other canine of vulpes inspired toys you have two or three spheres bulging out of the shaft, on Hector it is an almost perfect flattish bulge all around the body. Only at the top there is a small recess and there are two small ones next to the thick bulge below the ventral groove. While this does not sound a lot different, it changes the knotting dramatically. With spherical knots the individual spheres can be “pushed” to a side which fits the sphincter better. Also, the knot has an orientation; positioning it in line of the sphincter makes the entry more easily. With Hector is either goes in this way or is does not! This is little to coax the anus to open up. This led to many play partners underestimating Hector! In the profile the glans and body promise they will gradually open up the hole and the knot does not look more flattish than other knots. But it feels SO much more intense.

Wairu’s Textured Glans and Body

The neck below the knot is short but long enough for the anus to comfortably close around it. The little leverage in combination with the massive, dull knot means that it easily locks in place. The neck is textured with a cluster of thick grooves so there is an intense stimulation when twisting it. This is if your bottom can focus on this body part because the pressure of the thick knot pressing against the prostate if overwhelming.

The base is thick and sturdy so you don’t accidently swallow it when your hole already opened up to take the now.

The Smaller Pre-Knot and BIG Knot of Wairu

In comparison to Hector Wairu would be best described as “Two households, both alike in dignity”. He starts out with a tiny tapering glans. The glans rim is textured with pointy bumps. The shaft itself is not even half of the entire insertable length and its intersection is almost like a rounded square! On the bottom corner instead of a ventral groove there is line of pointy bumps. The sides and back are textured with scale-like ridges which have an pointy apex at the top. Yes, the body gradually tapers but through the texture it rather irritates the sphincter and causes it to tense up instead of gradually preparing it for the knot.

Wairu hast two of those. The first if what I call the pre-knot. It is a lot like Hector’s knot, a bulge around the shaft with only a small recess at the bottom. Its flatness’ effect is intensified by shallow yet noticeable ridges on the side which makes the knotting more intense.

The Neck of Wairu is less Textured than Hector’s

The knot itself is rather traditional with two big rounded spheres on the side, a medium one on top and a big recess at the bottom. So the anus can nicely squeeze the knot where it has to go. But the shaft-to-knot ratio is an absurd 1:1.7! Yes, bouncing on the pre-knot (1:1.4) helps a bit but still! The knot is texture with a few subtle veins for good measure but I doubt you will feel them in the intense knotting sensation.

The neck below has ridges like Hector yet fewer and shallower ones. Also, the neck is quite short. This in combination with the HUGE base create a lot of leverage, making it almost impossible to lock the knot inside the anus for extended periods of time.

Where to buy?

Since all Blackfang Labs toys are custom made, you can only order them from their website.

Vector, Bishop & Spritz

Toy Properties
Form: Fantasy Toy
Material: Platinum Silicone
Colors: Many
Firmness: Soft to medium Firm
Lube: Water, Oil
Cleaning: Soaking in hot water with dish-soap than use sanitizer.
Safer Sex: Clean and sanitize it thoroughly
Storage: Store in a well-ventilated place not touching other toys to prevent damage.

Vendor: Bad Dragon

Your thirst for new Bad Dragon Reviews never seems to stop – regardless how many of their toys I test. But I can understand you, riding their toys is very hot. Through your reader questions you pressure me to explore awesome toys – like Vector – I would have never considered. So not sure if I should call it “Time Honored Tradition” or “Broken Record” but here it is, the (semi?)annual Bad Dragon review.

Bad Dragon’s Bishop, Vector & Spritz

Construction

The most important thing about all Bad Dragon insertables (and to also fuckables) is that they are only made out of pure platinum silicone. Bad Dragon was actually the first major toy company back in 2008 to only work with platinum silicone so they have loads of experience which echos in their brilliant and elaborate color patterns. Silicone is the perfect material for colored toys since it takes on the color really well and does not discolor or fade over time. Each of their toys comes in different color patterns and can be highly customized. On their website is a configuration tool where you can see the toy in your desired pattern in 3D with a sizing tool. Just in case you are unsure if the toy is too big. Important when choosing the right size is to consider the firmness: The bigger the toy, the firmer it will feel. You can choose from soft (Shore A2), medium (Shore A5) and firm (Shore A8 which is still relatively soft).

Bishop’s Knot with the Small „Stopper“ Bump

More important than the coloring are the material properties of platinum silicone: First of all it is 100% body safe. This is extremely important because the human rectum has a very receptive mucous lining (That’s why you get extreme alcohol poisoning when you pour booze into your ass! Don’t do it!) so plasticizers or other potential toxins emitted from low quality PVC/ vinyl toys can enter the bloodstream easily.  Besides not being harmful to your body, platinum silicone has a super-smooth surface so it is easy to clean. For cleaning simple put the toy in warm dishsoap water, let it soak and rinse it off (I take post play bath with the toys on a regular basis). For extra cleaning, spray them with sanitizer or put them in an autoclave. While we are on the topic, a word how to care for your new silicone sculptures: Do not store them together with toys made out of other materials. The plasticizers leaving the material can damage your silicone toys for good. Especially when they are made out of soft silicone, store them upright. Otherwise they get dents and creases. One drawback of silicone is that is must not be used with silicone lube! The silicone oil inside will disintegrate the toy and tarnish the surface over time. Water or oil based lubes are perfect for them!

Spritz Textured Neck with the Suction Cup Base

Most toys can be customized with different options: The newest is called Dragon Mount but is actually a Vac-U-Lock hole. If your toy can be equipped with it, get it! While especially the larger toys might be too heavy for fuck machines, there are tons of Vac-U-Lock accessories like handles out there. When playing as a top I also like to guide the toy by sticking a thumb into the hole. The next best thing is the suction cup. Unlike with other toy companies, the Bad Dragon suction cup it deep and thus heavy duty! When you want to ride larger toys, I consider it an essential because otherwise the base will slide away. The suction cup is strong enough to stick even XL toys to the bathroom wall and you don’t pull them off when you deknot. The cum tube is a controversial topic. None of my Bad Dragons have a cum tube. With friends’ toys I was able to try the effect of shooting cum lube up my ass. It did not feel so intense but added a fuckton of effort to the cleaning. However, after every Bad Dragon review I post I am getting inundated with messages from people who swear by the cum tube! It adds so much of immersion to their toy that they would never buy a toy without it. If you have never tried a Bad Dragon with a cum tube and consider it, I highly recommend buying one of their Lil’Squirte to test the effect before buying an equipped big toy.

Vector & Chance next to Each other

Bad Dragon used to make every toy according to custom orders. This led to production times up to half year. So two years back they switched their order system: On a more or less regular basis they now have drops of already made toys. Sadly XL toys are rare in these drops and I know what you ass pigs are after. Once in a blue moon Bad Dragon opens custom orders for a limited number of orders. Then you can order your dream configuration. A lot of guys complain to me that this system sucks. I actually find it a lot better than the old one since they only take as many orders as they can process in a foreseeable time so you do not have to wait forever to get your new fantasy dong. Also, I do not know when the next drop/ custom order date is! Best you follow them on Twitter or Instagram; they announce drops and custom orders there.

Playing with Vector

Not sure why, but there has been an influx of review requests for equine inspired dildos. And “inspired” is the right term for Vector because he is a cyborg variety of a horse.

Chance & Vector’s Texture

The most often question I have gotten asked was “Is he larger than Chance?” Vector is slightly taller and the shaft is slightly thicker. The base is about the same side and cannot be equipped with a suction cup. This makes riding Vector a bit more challenging. Due to being larger, he is even more head-heavy than Chances and likes to tip over in medium firmness. Usually I don’t give firmness advice but for Vector I would advice to go with medium. In soft he flops around too much and is difficult to control, especially when playing alone. In firm he is too rigid and does not bend around the kinks of your colon. In medium he is just bendy enough tough due to being bigger than Chance he is a bit more rigid.

Vector is unflared so there is just a little bluge going around the glans rim. But the glans itself is wider and even flatter than on Chance. You need a good, pre-stretched hole to open up to this dull tip. Being a cyborg toy, the shaft is lightly textured with conducting paths, very subtle bumps & ridges and shallow panels with hexagonal patterns. Much like Chance subtle veins the pattern adds just a bit of friction when riding the toy but is mostly unnoticeable. The largest rising is the quite prominent ventral groove running down the shaft. And of course the medial ring which is wide band which rises vertically from the shaft so it is more noticeable than on Chance. The medial ring sits about 2/3 down the shaft. Below it the texture gets deeper and thus is more noticeable. But still far from the scales of a Clayton or Flint.

Vector’s Cowboy Boot Base

The base has an interesting design. Instead of big stallion balls it is shaped like a (space) cowboy boot. The apex of the instep strap goes about 40mm above the rest of the base which is a bit of a challenge if you want to take Vector (w)hole. The bottom of the shaft is a bit disappointing compared to Chance. There was a cluster of this lateral veins about 50mm above the base which massages the anus when riding him deep which I enjoy very much. But since Vector goes deeper and wider it is probably wise to not over-stimulate.

Playing with Bishop

Bishop comes from the same cyborg inspiration as Vector. But instead of a horse a dog was the inspiration for this dildo. And he plays a much meaner game than Vector.

The Curvature of Bishop’s Body

The first thing you notice when looking at Bishop is the unusual overall shape: The dildo is arching backwards. So if you ride him the traditional way with his balls pointing to yours, there is a constant light pressure on your anus. The shaft protrudes and pushes against the prostate. Until you come to the knot! Unlike other knots which are located below the shaft Bishop’s bulge extends backwards. This makes the knotting experience quite intense. And the knot-massive to-neck ratio of 3:2 makes the deknotting equally impressive! And that is before you start looking at the texture.

The glans is very tame. Gradually tapering it opens the anus up nicely. But since its orientation is perpendicular to the anus openung it is a bit more challenging than other toys. The shaft is textured with ridges in the form of metal plates welded on top of each other. The shaft’s bottom is textured with 7 scale-like plates mounted on top of each other for a saw-like texture, much like Flint only shallower. The top as well as the upside of the knot only has a few large plates with shallower drops mounted on top of each other so it is a bit smoother ride. The bottom of the knot has a faint hexagonal pattern imprinted. A nice touch are two round bumps just above the neck at the bottom of the knot. They might not look big and are easily compressed. But this little added texture makes the deknotting even more intense.

The Welded Plate Texture on Bishop’s Top

The intense texture in addition to the unusual curvature make Bishops a horny toy to ride if you are experienced and are in for hard prostate and anus stimulation. Depending on your physiology the large will already penetrate your second hole. Due to arching backwards the penetration is intense. Despite not going deep and the glans tapering gently, I would not recommend this toy for depth novices. Overall, Bishop is a compact toy. He stands sturdily straight up, especially when fixed with a suction cup. So you can ride him vigorously without him accidentally slipping out or away.

Playing with Spritz

Compared to the previous two toys, Spritz is a very traditional design. But Spritz has a few tricks up his sleeve.

Spritz tapering Glans

Like Bishop’s glans, Spritz’ glans is perpendicular to the anus orientation. But it is even more cone-shaped for gradual opening up. There is no glans drop but three ridges below the glans. They are quite stimulating but also add friction so going deeper is a challenge.

The shaft is extremely, almost 90° curved. This adds pressure inside the colon but also makes taking the toy deep a bit easier. There are two thick lateral bulges on the shaft which are only really noticeable when you turn the shaft inside the rectum.

Above the knot are again three thick and high ridges. Especially the drop below the last one is significant. They stimulate the anus intensely but make taking the knot more difficult. When the knot is still a challenge you usually ride the top of the knot, recede a bit onto the shaft to rest and attack it again. But the rest phase “irritates” (= stimulates) the anus, making it tighter. The knot is voluminous but tapers softly so the knotting itself is not hard just a lot of volume. Funnily there is a ventral groove on the knot which works as a bit of a guiding rod.

The Extremely Curved Shaft of Spritze with the Two Clusters of Ridges

The neck is very short but long enough for the anus to close completely. It is a bit textured with vertical grooves which are only noticeable when you turn the toy. But especially in the larger sizes this will hardly ever happen due to the strong curvature. What I would have liked more would have been lateral bumps like Clayton’s so there is a bit of stimulation when you are bouncing on the toy. Luckily the base is massive and can be equipped with a suction cup so riding Spritz hard is not an issue.

Breathing System – Air Alteration Accessories

Vendor: VAST

Important Security Information

As hot and horny breath play is, NEVER DO IT ALONE OR BY YOURSELF! Every year we lose several members of the kink community to self breath play. No matter how much you think you have figured out the safety and falls backs, there is always a slight and sadly often lethal chance of it failing.

This especially applies to playing with inhalants like poppers or N2O/ laughing gas.

If you are curious about breath play, look for experienced partners to introduce you to this kink and its intricacies. Please just never do it alone!

Example of the modularity and versitility of the VAST Breathing System

This is the third review on the ongoing serious in covering VAST extreme versatile (and thus complex) Breathing System. In the past I have covered the basic elements and took a detailed look at their Capsule Injector. Today I will review all different accessories which allow subsumed under altering the air stream.

If you want to get a quick overview of the Breathing System, take a look at my first and second unboxing. Recently I got my hands on a second FM12 so I soon will be able to show how to transform a gas mask using the Deluxe Upgrade Kit and Superior Latex Head Harness.

After that short orientation, let’s dive straight into it.

Switch (129€)

The name of this element is pretty telling: It is a switch between two air sources.

It looks like a small brother of the Rebreather. It has a diameter of 80mm and it 47mm tall like its big brother. It also features the same thick and easy to grab and to turn switch which tapers towards the end. The end points to one of two female GM40 ports. The port it points to is the port through which air goes in. The air will flow out through a female port on the opposite side of the Switch.

The Switch with the Inhaler & Breath Reducer Vario

The Switch is a useful, if not essential toy to play with the Air Alteration Accessories which I will review below. With just a turn you can switch between clean air or whatever flavoring device you are using. Or – as a top friend did – have two flavors of poppers ready. It is an extremely useful tool when you do multi-sub rebreathing (as one sub breathes the exhaled air of another). In this situation, getting fresh air into the system used to be very cumbersome. The switch makes it finally so easy that is it a relaxed scene.

If you want to integrate the Switch into your Breathing System setup, please only use short hoses! The longer the system, the more difficult it gets for the lungs to inhale fresh air. So in order to prevent unintended breathing issues, keep it short and tight!

Breath Reducer Vario (34.95€)

This a modern and multi-functional take on the tradition breath reducer with a simple hole. It is a 40mm short tube with a diameter just fitting into a female GM40 port. The lower third of the tube has a male GM40 thread so you can directly screw it into a gas mask or any air inlet of the breathing system. The top features five 6mm holes which are covered by an aligning disk with five 6mm holes. The rim of the disk is textured so it is easily turnable even with lubey hands or wearing thick gloves.

The Breath Reducer Vario Half Shut

When you turn the disk, the intersection of the holes and thus their diameter decreases and reducing the airflow. At about a third of a turn the air flow is noticeably reduced. Since there is seal between the disk and the top air can be sucked through the little gaps even when the holes are completely closed. But it is extremely difficult and strenuously. So the toy lives up to his name being a REDUCER and not a cut of. This is a failsafe because you cannot cut off the air permanently but forgetting to open it again. If you want to cut off the air flow completely, cover the disk with your palm. This way you are in direct contact close to the sub and can react directly if a situation is developing.

If the turning and gradual reducing of air flow is too distracting and thus sophisticated for you and you want the trusted and simple solution, VAST also offers a 6mm breath reducer for 22.95€.

Vaporizer with Switz

Vaporizer with Switch (169€)

The core of this toy is a switch tin with 80mm diameter and 47mm height like the other ones. In the middle there are GM40 female ports on each side. The rotary switch can point to two settings: Parallel to the ports is the “Pass”, turned about 30° down is “Vape”. When turned to Vape, the air flow is threaded through two 90° pipes which end in a lid. Onto this lid a 70mm diameter and 250ml volume can is a screwed.

The tin can be filled with poppers drenched cotton or whatever other aerosol emitting substance you want to expose your bottom to. The fumes can saturate the air trapped in the tin so once you turn the switch he is hit with a large quantity. If you want to reuse whatever you have put into the can, it comes with a screw-on cap to safe it for a later scene.

The Breath Reducer Vario on an AVON S10

The Vaporizer is a good element for extreme poppers pigs who want a strong, heavy rushing load. Through the easy to turn switch, dosing and turning off the poppers supply is easily and quickly done. Unlike other combinations (see below) it is a compact and integrated united. So especially when the high poppers does might impair you, it can be easily operated.

This is totally subjective but I love this element a lot! I like the bulky, heavy duty feel and look! It has a mad scientist vibe with the two kinked noticeable tubes from the switch to the screw lid. It just looks and feels heavy duty.

BUT: It does not make sense for everybody. The combination of a Switch with the Vaporizer or Inhaler (see below) is the more versatile solution. If you ONLY want to use poppers and NEVER would attach other accessories to the Switch, the Vaporizer with Switch makes sense. But if maybe want to have a scene in which you switch between a bubbler bottle and poppers, I would rather recommend the combo of the Switch with one of the two toys below. But if you are a toy nerd like me, you got to have both because you can create even more elaborate scene where you can switch between piss flavored and clean air and then can decide if poppers are induced or not.

(Popper) Inhaler

Inhaler (49.95€)

On top of the Inhaler sits a tube with a male GM40 thread on the outside to easily screw it directly into a gas mask or compatible accessory. On the next level below is a 10mm hole which leads to a 90° tube. This tube penetrates the lid and lets fresh air into the 100ml tin screwed onto the lit. The lid is also perforated with five round 50mm holes to let the whatever aerosol is trapped inside the tin stream upwards.

Topview of the Inhaler’s Lid

This is not only a great toy for any poppers pig who plays with gas masks. It is a great toy for every poppers pig! Drench (a few) cotton ball(s) with poppers, put them into the container and screw the top on. The bend tube and the five holes are small enough to trap most of the vapors inside. As soon as you start huffing with just your nose and mouth the agent escapes easily, flooding your lungs and mind. Especially in messy party situations or when you are clumsy like me so handling a bottle full of poppers can be dangerous, huffing safely from the Inhaler instead of an open bottle is so much handier. If you want to switch poppers brand throughout the night, a replacement tin with a lid costs 3.90€.

 

Bottom view of the Vaporizer’s Lid with it’s Tin on the Right

Vaporizer (79€)

The last of the three poppers inducing tools is the Vaporizer. It is a lid with two female GM40 ports on top. The lead to different holes in the lid so there are distinct in and out ports depending on the layout. The lid screws onto the same 70mm diameter 250ml plastic can like the Vaporizer with Switch. The can comes with a lid so you can store whatever is inside once the scene is done.

If you already have the Switch to alter between air and fumes and are playing with a HEAVY poppers pig, the Vaporizer is the way to go. Through the larger container about 2.5times more poppers fumes can collect than inside the Inhaler.

The Bubbler

The Vaporizer is a tool if your sub is into the permanent introduction of smells into the system. In this scenario put it directly before the air intake of the gas mask so the fumes hit him permanently. However, the nose quickly becomes desensitized to smells so the effect is limited. I would not recommend this with poppers because constantly breathing the vapors is not good for your heart and lung.

Bubbler (69€)

The Bubbler uses the same two female GM40 port design. The inlet is connected to 200mm long silicone tube which is closed with a plug at the bottom. In the bottom 4 rows of 5 holes have been punched inside the hose. The outlet is just a short 90° tube from the bottom of the lid. The head screws onto a 1l bottle. The thread fits many 1l milk bottles – at least in Germany. It even works with glass ones if you want to bring such material into your playroom.

The name of this toy comes from the effect it has: You fill it with a liquid – most commonly piss – till at least the highest of the holes inside the hose are covered. Once you start to breath, you have to create so long underpressure until the water level drops below the hole and the “vacuum” is broken. By doing this breathing is made harder because you first need to create sufficient underpressure (the higher the water column, the more underpressure is necessary). It also flavors the breathing air with whatever liquid is inside. In the process the liquid bubbles and thus the name.

The Bubbler’s Hose

This bubbler is a bit different from other bubblers I have played with. Usually a bubbler has a hose for letting air in. The immersion depth determines how difficult it is to get fresh air. Through this hose you can also add liquid if you are a meany. With this toy you have to decide how intense the scene is going to be by choosing the liquid levels. But to be frank, due to the small volume of the bottle and the highest hole being at about 40% of the way up, even in a full bottle drawing breaths is not getting so much harder. So this is rather a piss flavorer than breathing impairer.

Of course other bubblers have a hole in the top for the hose to go through. With the Vast Bubbler you can take the piss home with you in a replacement bottle. This will be extremely useful for pro doms!

When playing with this bubble, a bit of care is necessary. Due to the chunk, heavy-duty gas mask ports on top, it is extremely head-heavy. Add to this the small footprint of the bottle and it can easily tip over, causing the piss to flow everywhere. My recommendation is to put it in a lube bottle holder to store it safely.

Sniffer (119€)

The Siffer with the Two Jar Sizes

The Sniffer follows the same basic design of the Bubbler: Two female GM40 ports, one connected to 130mm hose, this time with only 4 holes in one of the 6 rows, one connected just by a hole through the lid and short 90° tube. The lid has a 100mm diameter and its thread fits large pickle jars 😉 The Sniffer comes with two PET bottles – or rather jars –, one with 1,250ml and one with 4,000ml.

As the name says, it is made for sniffing things, most often probably underwear or socks. Getting a jockstrap cup through the 100mm opening is a pain in the ass so I would not recommend it.

It is a good toy for inhaling the scents your top wants to expose you to if you stick to a few simple rules:

  • Don’t overpack. Fumes need spaces to waft. If you pack it to the brim, not only the hose will be kinked, shutting off the air, but the smell is packed instead of free flowing.
  • The warmer the medium, the better the smell. Often I get messages of frustrated sneaker and sox slave who have bought gear from one of their admired tops and the smell is rather faint. Body heat releases the smell so wear it for a couple of minutes before putting it inside. What I would NOT recommend is putting a warm grain pillow inside the jar! Those have a strong graining inherent smell and if you are not having a horse play scene it is really unsexy.

If you daisychain the Sniffer in a setup behind another fume agent – like a poppers source or the Bubbler bottle – be prepared for the content to take on the smell. Most often I used the Sniffer with really rank sox and the switch so the bottom was periodically exposed to heavy fumes and clean air. Since the sense of smell quickly gets used to smells, periodic break or switching between two strong smells for continuous intense effects is strongly recommended. But this toy also works if you want to prime your sub to your smell and let him breath only through the Sniffer. If you don’t pack it too densely (see above), you can comfortably breath through it so without the airflow being impaired. So the sub can sniff your smell indefinitely.

Again the (replacement) jars come with a lid so you can store whatever inside for the next scene.

Mr S Heavy Duty Posture Collar

The Mr S Heavy Duty Posture Colar

Vendor: Mr S Leather

Construction

The sturdy bridle leather body of this collar is slightly curveted. On the ends it is already a hefty 80mm wide but then increases to a whopping 102mm in the middle. However, the bottom goes even lower to press against the sternum, allowing for a shallow recess where the chin goes. In front of the recess there is a half-oval bridle leather flap attached onto the body with snap buttons. So you can decide how severe the fettering will be.

The 51mm wide belt for closing the collar is riveted onto the body. When you want to lock the collar around the sub’s neck, the maximum circumference is 45cm. If you “just” want to close it around the neck, the circumference goes up to 51cm. The belt is closed with a roller buckle and can be locked using a pin. The lock shackle hole has a diameter of 4mm so pad locks with up to 3.5mm shackle wire strength can be used to lock this collar. Below the roller buckle a 60x64mm piece of oil-tanned leather protects potential hair or skin getting caught when fastening the belt. The belt also covers the small riveted leather loop which house three 27.5mm wide and 15mm tall stainless steel D-rings. There is one in the middle and one below each jaw side. There is not D-ring on the back so if you want to attach a leash, you have to get creative.

Detail of the Locking Pin

To protect the skin from chafing even under pressure with a sub who tries to move his head a lot, both the body and the chin plate is piped for a smooth and rounded edge. For more comfort and to avoid direct skin with the rivets both body and chin plate is lined with soft garment leather. The leather is sewed and glued onto the body; the edge is not deburred. Being made from the soft, signature Mr S garment leather, the “rough” edge doesn’t cause any issues. However, it would have looked and felt a bit more finished if even this edge would have been piped.

The curvated body of the Heavy Duty Posture Collar

The Roller Buckle & the Protecting Leather Flap

Playing with the Heavy Duty Posture Collar

The name of the toy says it all: It is a heavy duty collar to keep the sub’s head in place. Due to not being padded, it is a very strict posture collar though not the strictest in my collection. But certainly the most play ready and versatile. Push the front against the sub’s Adam’s apple, wrap the collar around it and close ONE wide belt. Many other collars either have two belts making it a little bit cumbersome or just one thin (20 – 30mm wide) one which compromised the rigidity. Mr S really found a sweet spot here.

Despite not being padded, it can be worn over extended periods of time. But especially when using the chin plate, take extra care when taking it off. When a limb or joint is forced in one position – especially unnatural ones – over extended periods of time, it will go stiff. This in combination with the head being rather heavy requires a lot of attention and support when taking the collar off the sub’s neck. Otherwise something similar to whiplash can happen.

The detachable Chin Plate

A nice feature is the detachable chin plate. Especially body builders with bull necks struggle with the chin support on other posture collars. Being able to take it off is a huge feature. The tallness between 80mm and 100mm is plenty enough to limit the head movement. This is even truer when the sub has a very pronounced jaw line.

As always with restraints and especially collars, being able to lock it adds a high psychological momentum. Not being able to take it off while not being able to move your head is a huge mind fuck! In the last year I have seen locking pins from cheaper manufacturer only having a shackle hole diameter of 3mm or even less. It is very good that Mr S doesn’t cut corners and still sticks to the “industry” standard so you can keep using your key-alike lock set.

One of the Lateral D-Rings

The three D-rings in the front are nifty anchor points for all kinds of bondage situations. Because compared to other, thinner collars the post collar distributes the force more evenly on the neck, it is a good toy for fettering the neck and keeping the boy even more in position. When doing this, the surrounding bondage layout should be tight. Otherwise there is a chance of the subs strangling himself when he can move too much.

While there is not D-ring at the back for K9 play, you can of course attach a leash in the front and lead your slave around. For deviant K9 play, attach bondage mitts to the lateral D-rings so your dog has to crawl on his elbows (don’t forget elbow protectors in this setup!). A top friend of mine use short leashes on the sides to have handles when face fucking his subs.

Conclusion: Heavy & heavy duty collar with grip to control unruly slaves!
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Fits extremely wide range of necks … but no D-ring in the back Mr S Leather $189.95
On smaller necks the long excess belt is a bit annoying
Lockable
Detachable Chin Plate
Three D-rings…

Pig Play Toys: Nose Hooks & Mouth Opener

Pig Play Mouth & Nose Toys

It’s beginning to look a lot like Pigmas
Toy for every hoe
But the prettiest sight to see is the piggy that will be
Choking on a pole

 

Merry Pigmas kinksters and perverts! It’s a holiday created by gays to celebrate that we survived yet another year of holidays among family and friends who have a hard time understanding our lifes. It’s a day to ring out the old year with sexy debaucheries.

The Classic Nose Hook

Pig play has been gaining some traction in the past year. There are a few toys out there associated with this kind of play. Which day of the year would be better to take a look at a couple of these particular and perverted toys than today?

Classic Nose Hook from Regulation (£ 19.99)

As the name already implies the classic nose hook is probably the most basic and iconic toy in pig play. 5mm grade stainless steel wire is bend into u-shape. The body has a height of 51mm and the hooks going into the nose are 16mm long. The clearance between the hooks is 9mm and 10mm between the hooks and the body. The ends of the hooks are well rounded and don’t have any sharp edges.

The Rounded Ends of the Nose Hook

In order to pull the nose back to get that snout look perverts into pig play dig, threat a piece of rope or tension strap through the apex of the body, pull it back over the head of sub’s head and attach it to a collar, harness or whatever bondage layout you want to incorporate it into. The more you pull, the more stress bondage it becomes. In stress positions, please be careful, the nose tissue is delicate and too much draft can result in injuries.

To call the hook comfortable would be an overstatement. But the long hooks distribute the draft a bit more evenly even though the tips dig a bit into the nose. What on a comfort level sets this hook apart from others I have tried is the small fillet. The hooks are so close together that they comfortably fit even tiny noses. Two of the hooks can also be used to pull the corners of the mouth apart for pathetic drooley face. Some pig players like to add a hook for each nostril to really pull the nose apart. For this the hook is actually too wide for most noses. Since the stainless steel wire is really rigid, you need heavy duty tools to bend the hooks tighter together.

The Hook of the Nose Hook Strap

Nose Hook with Strap from Regulation (£ 24.99)

If you are like me and are not good with rope, the nose hook with strap might look attractive. The nose hook is a piece of 4.5mm thick metal wire bend into u shape. The ends are slightly bent upwards in a sharp angle to go into the nose. To finish the otherwise sharp ends of the hook, a 6mm metal ball is soldered into the end. The clearance between the balls is about 12mm. Since one of my balls is off center on my version, I am pretty sure that the distance can vary one to two millimeters.

Onto the hook a 55cm long strap of 15mm wide bridle leather is riveted. The edges are not burnished or deburred so it is far from the quality of products made by Regulation; you can feel that this toy was purchased from an Asian manufacturer. Every 40mm the strap is decorated with a rivet. At the end a key ring is riveted onto which a small die casting swivel carabiner is attached.

Keyring with Swivel Carabiner

While the overall production quality of the toy might not be high end and far from the toys Regulation makes themselves, it is a functional. The spheres are the end of the nose hook are actually a bit more comfortable because they distribute the draft more evenly.

 

However, getting tension onto the hook is actually a challenge. Among my testees the length of the lead was too long for attaching to a collar, too short for attaching it to a harness. There are probably people out there where it fits perfectly. But in my sample of ten testees with very broad body types it didn’t fit. I would have wished for a double d-ring closure mechanism to shorten the leash to fit the piggy’s physique and play situation.

The Adjustment Screws to Fix the Teeth Retainer

Inspection Gag from Regulation (£ 24.79)

The body of this pig toy is a slightly oval, slightly convex ring out of sturdy polymer with internal dimensions of 75x67mm. At the top are 22mm long and 9mm apart pins covered with hoods which are supposed to go into the mouth. At the bottom is a 70mm long and 23mm wide grip. It houses a 12mm wide piece of L-shaped stainless steel. This sheet goes into the mouth and pulls the teeth on the lower jaw down. A small spring pulls it down for easy adjustment. Since the spring is far from strong enough to keep the strong jaw muscles in check, there is a screw to fix the strap in place.

In order to close the mouth, humans need to move the lower jaw. If the sub does this, he pushes the toy into the nose. Of course the screw only has so much power but closing the mouth is almost impossible and certainly very painful, making this toy very effective keep the mouth open. Even on a cooperative sub, the pins pins pushing into the nose will lead to a very piggy and somewhat pathetic look of the sub.

The Pins for Nose Fixation

The gag allows for the sub’s mouth to be opened to the max, far wider than a spider gag or ring gag would allow. The inspection gag is smaller and nimbler than a Jennings Jaw clamp and adds a more piggy look. So it is in the middle ground of effectiveness and handiness. For face fucking and deep throating the gag works well because it moves a bit and thus is more comfortable for the top. Just make sure you don’t injure the nose when vigorously fucking. One of my testee tops preferred this toy for manual aka dildo-suppported face fuck training. The piggy look of the stretched nostrils added to the drooling of the sub.

For forced rimming this gag is medium effective. Yes, the mouth is forced open but that tongue can retreat in the back of the mouth or block to opening whatever is opportune in the scene. Forced swallowing is okish. Swallowing with an open mouth is difficult and you have to pinch the nose shut for really force which is a but undercut by the pins. So forced drinking has a little water boarding to it.

The Mouth Clamp all opened up

Mouth Gag Clamp from Regulation (£ 34.70)

The body of this gag is still O-ring with 45mm internal diameter. It features little wings on the side onto which threaded rods are soldered. On these rods ride half-circles with wings. There movement is limited by nuts which ultimately screw the movable parts towards the O-ring. The toy is well made out of solid steel without sharp edges. So there are no unintentional injuries even in the delicate corners of the mouth – if the sub can easily open his mouth far enough…

Technically the mouth gag clamp is not a gag but a clamp. It is designed to put the lips around the O-ring and then lock them in place. Depending on the force this just keeps the lips open or induces quite a lot of pain in an otherwise not for pain play used body area. Even when the sub is a masochist, be careful not to bruise the lips as they are a delicate body are.

The Adjustment Mechanism of the Mouth Clamp

In order to put the lips around the O-ring the sub more or less has to open his mouth. Closing it will pull painfully on the lips. But since only the lips keep the mouth open, the effectiveness as a gag is limited. So this toy requires some cooperation of the sub. The only way of forcing his jaws open is grabbing them with your hand. This is a bit cumbersome because the gag is in the way of the palm. Yet the small opening is large enough to pour liquids and small solids into the mouth – if the bottom doesn’t block the opening with his tongue. For forced rimming this toy is not really made. The wide, bulky construction in top of the mouth keeps the bottom from really getting into the crack. He would need a REALLY long tongue to get into your anus.

Straight friends a told me that this clamp can also be used to forcefully keep a woman’s labia opened. The internal diameter of 45mm is not generous so I am not sure how comfortable a top could use this toy for penetration. If you play with a vagina/ bonus or front hole user and have other applications for this toy in this region, please write me!

Slot Tawse & Bullseye Wooden Paddle

Bullseye & Slot Tawse Wooden Paddle

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

Both paddles are made out of a medium brown, light wood which has been sanded and oiled so there are not splinters. The surface still has some noticeable grain left for a natural texture. Both paddles are fairly light. Sadly I forgot the note with the exact numbers on my desk home and my mother’s kitchen scale is not accurate enough for a measurement. I will fill in the blanks once home from Christmas vacation.

The Bullseye is made out of single piece of 17mm thick wood. The edge running around the paddle had been nicely rounded. The paddle’s circular hitting surface has a diameter of 130mm. It features one central hole with 25mm diameter and four adjacent ones with 20mm diameter. The head flows into a 190mm long handle which tapers slightly towards the end for a secure and comfortable grip. At the bottom a leather loop is threaded through a hole.

The Sandwich Handle of the Slot Tawse with the Leather Loop in the Back

The basis of the Slot Tawse on the other hand is a 12mm thick blade. Its head measures 95x280mm and features hard but not sharp edges. The 145mm long tapering handle is reinforced with a layer of wood on each sides bringing the thickness up to 25mm. It also adds round edges for a more comfortable grip. In middle of the hitting surface there are two 20x90mm holes (aka slots) cut behind each other. Also the Slot Tawse is equipped with a leather loop. Both toys’ loops are long enough to secure the toy around the top’s wrist.

Playing with the Bullseye and Slot Tawse

Being light paddles, the pain sensation of both lean toward sting.  This is supported by the design. Both the holes and the slots allow air which would otherwise be trapped between the hitting surface and the sub’s body to escape. So there is no dampening air cushion how little its effect might be. Being light the intensity can luckily be adjusted finely. A light tapping will not cause too much pain. However, if you hit full throttle, both paddles will sting like hell!

The Head of the Bullseye

The Bullseye is a surprisingly beginner-friendly paddle. The ergonomic handle makes it easy to grip and its compact shape easy to control. The head is small enough to target individual ass cheeks or thighs even with bad aim or arm control. More experienced players can even use it for ball slapping if the bottom can spread his legs far enough. If you hit with only little force, the Bullseye can be used for warm-up if the bottom prefers stingy warm-up.

The Slot Tawse plays a completely different game! The first noticeable attribute is that the blade like the Bullseye’s head has no give. So unlike a leather toy 100% of kinetic energy is transformed into pain on the bottom body. The blade it large enough to comfortably hit both ass cheeks at the same time. Focused hits with just the end are possible. But the hard edge will add even more sting.

The Hard Edge on the Slot Tawse

While the Bullseyes is a bit head-heavy, the Slot Tawse is really well balanced so you don’t tired your wrist when hitting with it. The sanding and oiling has been done painstakingly so the texture you feel when running your finger tips over the toys does not transform into abrasive pain.

Caution is in order when playing heavily with this toy: Wood is a higher maintenance material than rubber and aluminum. It is hard to sanitize because it absorbs a bit of the tissue fluid and since it has no clear coating, blood will stain it. So if you play really hard, do not only spray a sanitizer on it but let it lay in the sun for a few days before using it on someone else (alternative: use a UV sanitizer some of you might have bought during the Covid crisis). To keep the paddle as beautiful as it is, I recommend oiling it with olive oil (or a wood oil of your choice) every 6 to 12 months depending on how often you use it. This might alter the wood color and give the toy patina but ultimately it will turn a random paddle into YOUR paddle.

The Wood’s Grain

That being said at least for me the feeling of warm, grainy wood in the hand makes up for this work. The handle of the Bullseye feels and fits like worry stone. For me as a top there is something sensual in holding a beautiful made, open-grain piece of wood in my hand and playing with it. If you make your sub kiss the toy before applying it, he will be able to smell a faint hint of wood.

Conclusion: Beautifully made wooden paddle for beginners and pain pigs.  
Pros Cons Where to get Price  
Despite being made out of unforgiving wood, Bullseye can be used for warmup Being made out of wood difficult to clean and sanitize Regulation Bullseye £39.99
Slot Tawse £39.99
Excellent overall quality and fell
Leather loop for easy storage

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer IV – Last Minute Gift Ideas

Thirsty Ho Ho Ho Christmas Tee Ornament

It is only 6 days till Christmas Eve! So the time for elaborate custom gear gifts has somewhat passed. To not end up empty handed or just a bleak gift certificate, here are some last minute recommendations.

Last year fetish pin manufacturer Master of the House started a line of limited edition Christmas Tree ornaments with one ornament per year. Luckily, Regulation in London still has both last and this year’s: 2021’s Thirsty Hohoho featuring a sexy boy Christmas and this year’s Naughty & Nice with a blindfolded sub. They are great to bring a little naughty sparkle into your Christmas Tree, to hang in your home office window or to add a little something to an otherwise dull gift certificate. To kink up a gift certificate, you can put it in one of Spacepup Silver’s funny yet kinky Christmas cards.

A Selection of Spacepup Silver’s Kinky Christmas Cards

Speaking off Spacepup Silver: Him being so into campy and shiny stuff, I am actually surprise that he has not started making Christmas ornaments of his own yet. If you like his style Regulation sells all most his entire oeuvre as a writer. He takes accurate but always humoristic looks as different parts of the scene like rubber or pup play. So if you want to gift that special hardcore fetishist something funny and educational, check out his works.

Get Fucked Up Poppers Pack

Finally, something almost all kinksters cannot have enough in stock: Poppers, the perfect present for perverts. Surprisingly, I often get asked “Where can I get poppers in good quality?” Since the store where I shop only ships locally, take a look at Twisted Beast Poppers. Personally, I had most fun with their Fag and Holy Water, an avid bator friend unsurprisingly swears by Bator. But since everyone reacts differently to different kinds of poppers, gifting a multi pack to find out which works best for the lucky recipient might bring joy to him, his play partners and thus hopefully you for the dark winter months to come.

ToyTorture’s Stocking Stuffer III – Kink Inspired Beauty Products

Set of Leather Daddy Beauty Products

Being a fresh looking kinkster can be hard: Late night parties are followed by early brunches, too much poppers at Sunday fisting martinees before a presentation on Monday or the packed schedules of four days at Folsom Europe can take it’s toll. And I haven’t even started to talk about age.

Being gay, most of us have our beauty routines and preferred products – including me. But what if there were products made and developed by a kinkster for kinkster. Leather Daddy Skin took up this task and developed a line of high end beauty products for men.

The Leather Daddy Cum Rag

The products take care all the essential body parts from hair over face and beard (surprisingly, they don’t offer a shaving soap and after shave for those who trim their beards – yet) to the torso. While their first products were quite traditional, they recently introduced flavored body scrub. So if you ever wanted to combine body worship with shower sex and a taste experience, this is the way to go. For more “conventional” intimacy, combining their massage oil with a cumrag would be a nice stocking stuffer.

The Leather Daddy Cologne

One of their latest products is a cologne which combines the sexy scent of leather with other masculine notes. I tried to get a whiff of it before writing this but living in bumb fuck nowhere in Europe… Well. A friend of mine is using it and he says it’s combines elegance with a kinky twist so I take his work for. At least the bottle looks really cool nice and would be equally at home a bathroom or a dungeon space.

I have already created my own personal wish list for when I make it back to the USA (so not kinky SPA for me this Christmas). So in the meantime it is up to you to support a small business of a community member and thus make a good friend – or youself – glow and shine even more.

Wrist to Ball Restraint

The Mr S Wrist to Ball Restraint

Vendor: Mr S

Construction

Five individual pieces form this restraint setup. Literally the central element is 31mm wide piece of the typical Mr S soft yet sturdy bridle leather which is burnished and deburred. It is folded several times and riveted to house stainless steel D-rings on both ends. They are 38mm wide and 27mm high and have a wire strength of 6mm so they are really heavy duty! In the middle sits a locking pin.

By threading  the belt through the D-rings, this leather bars connects two cuff style wrist restraints. They are not padded but lined with soft garment leather for a bit more restrictive feeling. The belt is closed with roller buckles and houses a D-ring between two rivets. The restraints are functional and effective, covering a range of wrist circumference form 11cm to 22cm. Depending on how big the sub’s wrist are, you might be able to push the ends of the cuff closing belt over the locking pin to lock the restraints. The roller buckles are wider than the width of the D-ring. This means they “firmly” connected to the connector and cannot be exchange for different, for example padded ones or bondage mitts.

The Scrotum Strap

The locking pin in the middle of the connection bar is the anchor point for a 24cm long and 1.9cm wide strap of bridle leather. It’s bottom is lined with garment leather for a total width of 2.5cm. At the top eight holes for attaching the strap to the locking pin are punched. At the bottom another locking pin is riveted to the strap. It is the anchor point for 35.5cm long and 1.9cm wide piece of extra soft, unlined bridle leather. There is one hole punched at one end and nine at the other. This strap is for attaching the restraint setup to the scrotum and covers a ball neck circumference from a already surprisingly large 15cm to massive, (saline-)pumped 30cm.

The Roller Buckle

To connect all straps, the Wrist to Ball Restaint comes with two small keyed alike Master padlocks. If you already have a keyed alike padlock system for your play space, you can use your pad lock with up to 3.5mm shale wire strength.

Playing with the Wrist to Ball Restaint

The primary purpose of this toy is to create a physical feedback loop between the hands and the balls. The human body usually try to “work out” pain sensation through muscle movement. So regardless of what you are doing to the sub as soon as he tries to move his arms to help processing the sensation his balls will move. The shorter the connection strap, the stronger to force transmition. This is especially devious if the balls are pre-bruised so hurt from movement of when you line the scrotum strap with a (dull) pin strap). I found that particularly fun in combination with CBT or e-stim around the balls. Even more so when you hang a movement sensitive e-stim device from the padlock on the scrotum strap.

The Connector

Of course, this toy also works as a piece of bondage gear without additionally induced sensations. The most basic use is to use it as simple handcuffs without the scrotum part. The connector is not as rigid as a metal on like on Hiatts 840 handcuffs but has less slack and torsional stiffness than carabiners or rope. The connector allows the cuffs to be grabbed easily and forcefully (just make sure the locking pin is between your fingers) so you can handle and direct the sub.

When you include the scrotum setup, the simplest bondage layout is to keep the sub’s arms down. Handily the restraint can be worn below cloths. More demanding is incorporating it into any stress bondage position and watch him try to get into himself into a somewhat comfortable position while he is tugging on his balls. Once the sub has found a somewhat comfortable position, smack his balls to encourage some movement.

The Cuffs in the Smallest and LargestSetting

Putting the restraints on is easy: First put the wrists of the sub either in front or behind his body and fetter them either with the connector’s locking pin either facing towards or away from the body (yes, each of the four combinations has a different effect). Then Tie the scrotum strap around the balls neck, push the single hole of the connection strap over it and close using a padlock. Finally, adjust the tightness of the tug with the length of the connection strap and push the corresponding hole over the connector’s locking pin. Having put the process into words makes it sound more complicated than it actually is. Since I figured out how to use the individual elements, it takes me less than a minute to fetter a sub completely.

The Riveted D-Rings on the Cuff and Connector

When the locking pin is facing the body, there is a little bit more slack in the connection strap so less force is transmitted. For more intense play, let the locking pin face away from the sub’s body. The restraint position has a bit stronger effect. Behind the body is the more traditional position. Due to the elbows being a bit twisted and stretched, there is less way for them to act out things so again it is more intense. Also, the balls are prominently tugged back for easier targeting. However, this way the connection strap covers the anus. If you want to fuck your bottom hard, put the restraint in front of the body. Depending on the sub’s physiology, this even works in doggystyle. For ball torture this position works only limited because the dick is in the way. But if you make a bit of stress bondage out of it by pulling the arms up using the D-rings on the cuffs, you get a nice, strong balls tugging again. Just be careful not to overdo it because the wrist cuffs are not made for suspension bondage!

Conslusion: Unique and effective combination of CBT and bondage.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Interesting bondage layouts possible Scrotum Strap could use more holes for smaller balls Mr S Leather $139.95
Lockable
D-rings on cuffs Restraints are not padded and cannot be exchanged
Extrem high build and manufacturing quality