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E-Stim Systems Pebble

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The E-Stim Systems Pebble Power Box

Vendor: E-Stim Systems

After I reviewed the E-Stim Systems Helix in this year’s E-Stim Special in the spring, I literally got inundated with questions regarding the Pebble. The folks at E-Stim Systems were kind enough to provide me with a review sample so here are my testee panel’s condensed thoughts and experiences with the Pebble.

Construction

The Pebbles design is quite distinct for an e-stim power box: With its convex sides it has an almost hand axe like shape which rests really well in the top’s hand. The back, the top and the bottom are made out of the same high quality, sturdy black polymer all E-Stim Systems’ power boxes are made out of. The convex sides are covered in a rubberized soft-touch material for even better grip. The box is 117mm long, 24mm high and measures 78mm at the widest point. The panel at the front side features two 3.5mm sockets and the power switch in the middle. Behind the power switch the microphone is located.

The upper part of the control panel on top of the box is also symmetrically laid out. On the left and on the right are the rotary controls for controlling the intensity of the two channels. Above them is a blue LED which is on when the channel fires. Between the two intensity controls is the “Adjust” rotary control for manipulating the program’s sensation. Below these controls on the left side are two soft-touch buttons labeled with arrows up and down. They are for the program selection. On the right side next to the buttons are the 9 programs names with a blue LED next to them which flashes in a unique pattern for each program (see below).

The E-Stim Systems Pebble with the Entire Box Content

The box is powered by a standard 9V block battery which’s compartment is on the bottom. So if the battery runs out of power you can replace it easily and quickly during the scene.

Like all E-Stim Systems Premium Products the Pebbles has a lifetime warranty. It comes like all power boxes in a black carrying case lined with foam. If you cut the foam a bit on your own, there is plenty of space for some basic electrodes. Out of the box the Pebble comes with a detailed manual, a battery, 4 pad electrodes and two 3.5mm jack to 2mm pin plug leads. While I can understand the choice so you can out of the box connect the box to the pad electrode it is still a bit annoying because most E-Stim Systems electrodes are laid out for 4mm banana plugs (for more detailed information of the carrying case’s content, read my unboxing).

Playing with the Pebble Power Box

After turning the box on there is a 4se self-test during which the program LEDs flash after each other from the bottom to the top. Then the LEDs go on according the current battery status. If only half the LEDs are on, you should consider replacing the battery. The Pebble will only start firing a channel when a program is selected by pressing the arrow buttons. After the selection it takes between 2 and 4 seconds until the program is activated. Once the program is activated the 9 LEDs flash in a unique pattern. This is a bit annoying because you have to memorize which pattern is associated with which program in order to figure out which is currently active.

Program Name Sensation Adjust Effect Flashing Pattern
Pulse Single pulses simultaneously on both channels Speed of pulses Single LED, moving upwards in the speed of the pulses
Flo Wave-Form Making the wave’s sensation stingier Single LED moving up and down
Split Wave-form on left channel, pulse on right channel Speed of pulses on right channel Two LEDs converging towards the middle, a step after the bottom one blinked
Bounce A pulse alternating between left and right channel Alternation speed One LED converging alternating towards the middle and back
Audio Channels fire corresponding to audio input Microphone sensitivity Outgoing from the middle LED the LEDs light up corresponding to the sound’s intensity like an equalizer display
Milk Pulses which frequency first increases and then decreases again Cycle length Two LEDs converging towards the middle and going back corresponding to the pulses’ speed
Squeeze Pulses which increase in speed until max and start again Cycle length Two LEDs converging towards the middle corresponding to the pulses’ speed
Tease Continuous output which changes from soft to stingy and back Cycle length Two LEDs moving from the middle to both ends and start over
Torment Continuous output which changes from soft to stingy and starts again Cycle length Two LEDs converge towards the middle, pause the and move outward again

Detail of the Front Side Panel and the Soft-Touch Grip sections on the Side

Like the Helix the Pebble is an analogue box so the basic feel is very smooth but depending on the program can become quite stingy. Especially for beginners I recommend staying at the smoother side of the possible sensations because the sting of cheap e-stim units drives most rookies away. Still the Pebble packs enough punch for experienced players. The programs range from the basic (Flo and Pulse) to elaborate ones (Tease & Torment) which leave enough room to explore different play scenarios even for more experienced e-stim doms.

Like almost all build-in microphones of e-stim units it is not that great and sensitive. But the Pebble – unlike its big brother – doesn’t have a microphone line-in. So if you want to use the audio feature, place the power switch directly in front of the audio source for a good and detailed input.

Example of the Flashing Patterns indicating the Selected Program

So, compared to the Helix, where does the Pebble stand? My honest opinion is, there actually is no real reason to buy the Helix when the Pebble is available. With 5 more programs and dual output for just £40 more, the Pebble offers a better value for the money in my opinion. However, if you know that you only like stimulation in one place, like to threat your sub with the “Fire” button usage or are looking for more control over the program the Helix is the box for you. But from my experience, having talked with dozens of people venturing into e-stim, most people enjoy the possibilities of dual channel stimulation. So even if you are starting out in e-stim, I would recommend the Pebble and if you want to dive even deeper into this form of play and want the features described above, buy the Helix as your second box.

Conclusion: Basic yet versatile beginner’s power box with good value for money.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Dual analogue output for smooth sensation Inconvenient microphone position and no additional line-in E-Stim Systems

(Manufacturer)

 Standard: £149
XPE (with conductive Loops & bipolar Egg electrode): £209
Powerful
Interesting programs Only supplied with 2mm pin leads XPF (with conductive Loops & Flange bipolar electrode): £209
Audio feature
Disclaimer: This toy was sent to me by E-Stim System for an honest and unbiased review.

Padded Posture Collar

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The Regulation Padded Posture Collar

Vendor: Regulation

Construction

The actual collar is a piece of leather which is roughly anatomically shaped to follow the jaw line on the top and create a support around the sternum. The minimum width of the collar is 100mm so it is quite restricting through its sheer height. Onto the collar an anatomically shaped rest for keeping the chin from moving is riveted.

All pieces are made out of stiff bridle leather so it is really restricting. The edges are burnished and dyed so despite the stiffness the collar is comfortable to wear (leaving out the stress bondage aspect). Regulation calls this collar “padded” and technical I have to agree: Below the soft garment leather lining there is a thin, stiff layer of foam padding. However it is far from the lavish padding on their other premium bondage equipment. Thicker padding would actually compromise the purpose of this collar because it would give in to movement limiting the restricting aspect.

Detail of the Posture Collar’s Anatomic Shape

The collar comes in two sizes: M for a collar circumference between 37cm and 46cm; L for between 45cm and 51cm. It is closed by two 32mm wide leather belts with roller buckles and is equipped with three D-rings: one in the front and one on each side.

Playing with the Posture Collar

As the name of this piece of bondage already tells: It is designed to keep the head in a certain position and it does it really well. Of cause there is a little room for movement because leather is not steel and even the strict riveting allows for a little wiggle room. However it is the most strict posture collar I have come cross yet thus it is fitting gear for stress bondage. And while it is comfortable to wear over extended periods of time through the great production and material quality, keep in mind that forcing any limb or joint to remain in one position for extended periods of time will make it go stiff. This in combination with the head being rather heavy requires a lot of attention and support when taking the collar off the sub’s neck. Otherwise something similar to whiplash can happen.

Detail of the Rollar Buckle and the Custom Locking Posts

The three D-rings are ideal for “traditional” bondage positions: Attach a leash to the front one and wrist restraints or bondage mitts to the side ones. A handler friend of mine gives his dog elbow and knee pads, fetters his legs with the Fetters Heavy Hogtie Set, clip the bondage mitts to the posture collar and leads his K9 around this way for a more intense animal play headspace. Another top friend of mine attached short leashes to the side D-rings to have something to hold onto while face-fucking his boy who could not turn his head away.

Detail of the Burnished and Dyed Edges and the Padding

Especially on Tumblr I have seen pictures of people incorporating this posture collar into (rope) bondage layouts to completely immobilize a sub. While this collar is good for keeping the sub’s head from moving, the rest of the bondage layout should be equally tight or even tighter. Otherwise the sub might be able to get up and strangle himself.

When I ordered my collar I had it custom made with added locking posts. Especially when it comes to such an intense piece of (stress) bondage gear, hearing the locks lick and the inescapability sink in is a big mindfuck! If you are interested in that option, simply write it as a comment in the ordering process.

Conclusion: Very well made and very strict (stress) bondage collar.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Reliably keeps the head from almost moving at all Off the rack without locking posts Regulation £199.99
Very well made with attention to detail out of high quality leather
Three D-rings

 

LA Pump Cylinders & Vacuum Pump

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La Pump Toys from left to right: Trigger Pump, Nipple Cylinder, Elliptical Cylinder, Thick-Wall Cylinder & Rosebud Cylinder

Vendor: Uberkinky

Construction

The toy you need for all pumping action is the actual pump. I have gotten a very basic one made out of plastic which does the job and is light-weight. One of my more pumping experienced testees actually prefers this kind of pumps for traveling because they are light and simple so are quite sturdy. It has only two moving parts: The grip you pull for pumping and a button for releasing the vacuum located right next to the hose. The hose is 50cm long and made out of transparent silicone with a one connector at the other end which fits into the vacuum valve on the cylinders.

Cylinders are the toys which are put on the body part which should be pumped. All cylinders from LA Pump are handcrafted from a sturdy polymer. The most common cylinders are the ones for pumping your penis and I have gotten two of them. First there is the round thick-wall cylinder which gets his name from the 7mm thick walls. It is rounded at the bottom for a good and comfortable vacuum seal. The other cylinder is an elliptical one so its shape is more like the one of a penis. At the bottom is has a flange which is between 12mm and 17mm wide. The flange distributes the vacuum pressure more evenly making it more comfortable to wear over long time and more intense scenes. To determine the correct size for your cock cylinder a rule of thumb is taking one third of your dick’s circumference as the diameter.

Detail of the Rosebud Cylinder’s Rod

Switching to the body’s rear I have gotten a rosebud cylinder for ass pumping. It is a 165mm long round cylinder with diameter of 75mm which ends in a rounded, elliptical flange which width increases from 11mm to 17mm. In the middle of the cylinder there is 254mm long and 25mm thick rod which is screwed and glues to the cylinder’s top. This rod goes inside your anus. Sadly this cylinder comes in one size only. So if your ass quiet experienced there can be a problem because the rod is too thin to form a vacuum along the sphincter. If that happens, don’t try to forcefully create a vacuum but continue pumping. This can lead to internal injuries!

For going up the torso I have gotten two nipple cylinders. They are 104.5mm long including the vacuum valve and have 7mm flange at the bottom for more comfortable long term scenes. To really feel the vacuum sensation on the nipple the internal diameter should be slightly smaller than areola.

Detail of the Cylinder’s Vacuum Valve and the Hose’s Connector

Playing with the Pump & Cylinders

Getting ready for pumping takes a bit of preparation. The body area onto which the cylinder’s rim sits should be mostly hairless because hair below the rim can prevent a vacuum seal from forming. For a smoother experience some people cover the rim and the bottom 5cm of the cylinder’s inside or the soon to be pumped body area with lube so the skin can get sucked in more easily. Personally I did not feel the need to do so but if you are having a pinching sensation around the cylinder when pumping give it a try.

When you are ready to pump, connect the pump to the cylinder and lightly press the cylinder against your body so the rim sinks into the tissue a bit. Especially with the rosebud cylinder you might need a second person for this because regardless if you are in doggy position or lying on your back, holding the cylinder in place and pumping at the same time is a bit awkward and clumsy.  Slowly start pumping until you feel a bit of a draft sensation. Stop until the sensation slowly fades away, than pump again. The aim of pumping is to maintain a pleasurable pulling sensation all the time. Pumping too quickly can lead to injuries. Good pumps have a gauge so you can see how much suction there is already inside the cylinder. If you want to take a break while pumping and walk around with your cylinder stuck to your body or pump on a different cylinder, push the little leaver on the vacuum vavle and pull the hose connector out. The vacuum will be maintained. To release the vacuum, connect the pump with the cylinder again and push the button next to the hose. When cock pumping I personally prefer the thick-wall cylinder. Due to its thicker wall it is heavier and feeling the heavy, solid cylinder in my hand while I see my dick grow is a horny mindfuck.

Difference of the Cylinder’s Bottom between a Thick-Wall (left) and Elliptical with a Flange (right)

After playing wash the cylinder wish warm soap water and if you use it on multiple partners sanitize it. The agents on the sanitizers can make the polymer dull so be prepared that over time the cylinders will lose a bit of their crystal appeal. Before using the cylinders again they should really be dry including the vacuum valve! Otherwise moisture can get sucked into the pump causing damage in the long run.

So much for the technical part; now to the anatomical. Cock pumps can have a beneficial effect on your sexual health and stamina. Pumping draws blood into the pumped body area increasing the blood flow making getting and maintaining an erecting more easily. Besides blood tissue fluid is getting pumped into the body area giving a puffy feel and increase the temporarily increase the size. When jerking off after pumping it will feel a bit like stroking a stranger’s dick which can be a hot experience on its own. Furthermore the light draft stress of the vacuum makes the nerve endings more sensible which lead to more intense orgasms or more intense nipple or ass play.

The Basic Trigger Pump without a Gauge

Cock pumps are often advertised to facilitate penis growth but sadly there isn’t scientific evidence that even after long and regular pumping your penis will permanently grow significantly. There can be a bit of increase in length and girth but don’t expect the increase to be measurable in centimeters – at least if you are interested in a rock hard dick. If you pump very often and for very extended periods of time the size will increase but the dick will feel soft and soggy because you are basically outstretching the skin and facilitate permanent tissue fluid accumulations. In a worst case scenario your dick will lose its ability to become hard. This “sponge dick” appears when you pump too quickly so the blood shooting into the cavernous bodies damages them. In a really bad case a blood vessel in your erect penis can erupt which is a case to call the ambulance! Pumping “hard” on body areas without cavernous bodies like the ass or nipple is not dangerous but can “just” lead to hematomas.

Conclusion: High quality cylinders with a basic pump.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Cock & Nipple Cylinders come in various sizes to fit all dick sizes & shapes Rosebud cylinder only comes in one size Thick Wall Cylinder £99.99
Elliptical Cylinder £99.99
Pump has no gauge Nipple Cylinder £69.99
Well made out of high quality materials for a good and comfortable vacuum seal Rosebud Cylinder £159.99
Basic Pump £16.99
Disclaimer: This toy was sent to me by Uberkinky for an honest and unbiased review.

ToyTorture’s Wishlist #4: Oxballs Piss Play Toys

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The Oxballs Piss-Lock

In the last couple of months it feels that I have gotten out of touch with my piggy, piss loving side which is a bit sad. The warmth of the liquid and the intimacy of two people sharing this private moment used to make piss one of my favorite kinds of play. Rearranging my playroom so my play mats covered by Sheets of San Francisco are not cramped into one end of the playroom but located central is one step into bringing the piss pig out again. Getting piss toys which intrigue me is another.

The Oxballs Recycler Urinal Set

The first toy I would love to add to my collection is the Piss-Lock from Oxballs. This two piece toy is basically a gag connected to a cock cage made out of Oxballs super-stretchy FLEX-TPR with a hose. The mouthpiece of the gag is shaped like a bite-guard used by football players so it is ideal for a biter like me. Into the tip of the cock cage a small aluminum funnel connects to the hose. The funnel looks almost like the electrode of the e-stim version of the cock cage so I am somewhat positive that the internal diameter of the funnel’s outlet is 4mm – just right to take banana plug and make it an e-stim toy. And you all know that I simply cannot have enough electrodes- The cage with just the funnel and the hose costs $85. What is a bit of a shame is that I am not the biggest fan of the yellow FLEX-TPR which comes with the Piss-Lock; I would rather have the clear of the Recycler or even better the black of the standard Cock-Lock. You can add the gag for $59 or an aluminum butt plug either with 3.6cm diameter for $38 or 4.8cm diameter $58. If you want the plug and the gag and maybe use them simultaneously Oxballs sells both together as the Recycler Ultimate Urinal System between $139 and $163 depending on the plug size.

The Oxballs Ass Blaster Hollow Buttplug with Funnel

However, I am not really interested in the butt plug. Having a quite trained ass and aluminum as being a metal is quite heavy, there is a big chance especially in rougher play for it to fall out. For that reason I am more looking at their Ass Blaster. It is a hollow butt plug with three wings for easy grip even with lubey fingers. It comes in black, red and orange and in three sizes from 4.7cm over 6cm up to 7.5cm diameter. All three sizes come with a funnel which has a big opening so pissing into the bottoms ass is way easier than with into Pig Hole up his ass where you have to aim a bit. Especially the large plug with its diameter of 7.5cm should stick even in a long fisting scene. If not, put it inside a Pig Hole. The Ass Blaster costs between $64 and $98 depending on the plug size.

Sets of Delrin and Teflon Canes

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Two Sets of Jack’s Floggers Canes
Top: Delrin; Bottom: Teflon

Vendor: Jack’s Floggers

Construction

Today I am going to take a look at two sets of canes made by Jack’s Floggers which I have bought this summer. All canes are made the same way: At the bottom there is a grip section covered in braided black leather with a small knot on both ends so they look and feel a bit like a flogger. The bottom knot houses a steel ring so you can store the canes easily. The cane itself is a round rod with a rounded, deburred tip so there is no risk of unintentional injuries. The canes come in diameters of 6mm, 8mm, 10mm and 12mm. The delrin canes are black and 70cm long while the PTFE (more commonly known as Teflon) are white and 50cm long. The white fluoresces under UV lighting so accordingly lid play spaces this effect adds some extra visual drama to the scene. Sadly Jack’s Floggers only offer the canes in the mentioned length and does not offer short or longer ones even on request.

Detail of the Braided Leather Handle with the Hanging Loop

Playing with the Canes

The rule of thumb is: The thinner a cane, the stingier the impact sensation will be. However the two materials invoke a bit different sensations. The delrin is quite stiff and thus even stingier. Their sensation is closer to the one of “traditional” natural canes made out of rattan or wicker. Teflon on the other hand is way denser yet more flexible so the blows tend to be thuddier. The 70cm length of the delrin ones are a standard cane length which is ideal for playing with a bit of distance between the sub and the top ranging from the sub being fettered to a spanking bench to standing positions like on a St. Andrews Cross. The shorts Teflon ones are made for more intimate play like over the knee caning. The shorter length makes good targeting more important, especially when you want to hit both cheeks, thighs or sole of the feet. Since canes transfer a lot of kinetic energy onto a very small area, this kind of toy should be use with caution and experience and only on through muscles and fat tissue well padded body areas. Especially when doing bastinado (caning of the feet) or hitting hands (a practice commonly done in schoolboy scenes) do not use too much force. You might break the small and thus fragile bones. When it comes to marking both materials are in no way inferior to rattan or wicker.

Detail of the Rounded and Deburred Tip

I intentionally chose synthetic canes over natural ones for three reasons: First, synthetic ones are love maintenance. While you have to water or wax natural canes before playing to keep them flexible, I can spontaneously grab the synthetic ones in a scene and just use them. Second, unlike rattan they are completely smooth and have the same degree of flexibility on the entire length. Rattan’s internodes can effect flexibility and create a hard bulge in the middle of the cane which can inflict unintended and hard to control pain. Third and most important there is the saver sex aspect. Through the large amount of kinetic energy hitting the body, tissue fluid and in intense canings blood will cover the area in addition to sweat and abraded skin. Even polished and waxed wicker has a somewhat rough surface making it ideal for bacteria and viruses to linger and grow. So a natural cane should only be used on a single sub. Synthetic canes on the other hand can easily be sanitized and quickly be used again on a different sub.

I also chose the materials intentionally. Synthetic canes are made out of a number of different materials. Metal ones especially in combination with e-stim or heat/cool play are fun but in a high intensity scene hard to dose; they can actually shatter bones. Fibre glass or acryl can break in half or “just” spall causing nasty wounds which in case of fibre glass in some cases will never heal.  Delrin and Teflon are basically unbreakable and will last you a lifetime.

Conclusion: Well made and easy to use and maintain cane set.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Well made with artfully braided handle Come only in fixed lengths Jack’s Flogger  Set of 4 Delrin Canes: £50
Jack’s Flogger Set of 4 Teflon Canes: £50
Easy to sanitize
Especially Teflon has unique sensation for a cane

SensaVox

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The ElectraStim SensaVox E-Stim Power Box

Vendor: ElectraStim

It is becoming a bit of a tradition that after each E-Stim Special I am getting inundated with questions about toys I have not reviewed yet. Despite having already reviewed half a dozen different power boxes there are still popular models out there which I have not covered. This review should answer a few of these questions.

Construction

Like most premium e-stim power boxes the SensaVox comes in a sturdy black carrying case. The inside is lined with foam which has cut outs for the power box, a (spare) battery, the audio adapter and space for cables and accessories. If use the SensaVox just with batteries when playing outside your playroom there is enough space for some pad electrodes, conductive loops, e-stim sounds and even a small bi-polar electrode. But when you open the case for the first time, it is packed with stuff: First there are the essential things like the actual power unit, two 2mm right-angle plug to 2mm pin leads, a 9V battery and an adaptable power supply for all four major socket systems (EU, UK, USA and Japan). The explore the audio features it comes with a line-in cable, a 3.5mm female-to-female adaptor for enhancing the line-in’s cable length, a microphone, a CD-ROM with audio files and manuals in multiple languages. Of cause there is printed a full colour manual in English. For a detailed overview of the box’s content read my unboxing.

The ElectraStim SensaVox with all the Standard Accessories

The SensaVox is one of the larger power boxes measuring 145x81x34mm and weighing 245g equipped with a battery and ready for play. The case is made out of a black polymer with now flex so it has a quality feel. The control panel is charcoal coloured with a bit silver dazzle.

In the top left corner there is the power button. In the left corner you find the Boost button which will increase the output power by 25% as long as it is pressed. Between the two buttons is the modify knob which modifies the selected programs. Below the two buttons at the top there is a red LED segment display and a knob below them on each side. They are to control and display the output level of the two channels. If the channel fires a red LED below the know flashes. Just below the middle of the front there are two arrow buttons flanking a blue LED segment display which are for selecting and indicating the program which the two channels will fire.

The SensaVox with all LED Indicators and Display Turned On

The socket for the power supply is located on the left side of the SenvaVox. On top are the 2mm sockets to plug in the leads for the two channels. On the right side are two 3.5mm sockets. The left one is for the line-in, the right one is the microphone input. The back side is covered with a sticker which not only labels the sockets on the side but also provides an overview which program corresponds with the program number. On the bottom of the back there is the battery compartment.

Playing with it

To get the box ready for action, press the power button, wait 2 seconds for the self-test to finish and then you are good to go. For safety reasons connect the leads first with the electrodes and then plug them into the box. The SensaVox will always boot to the first program. Also, regardless of the position of the knobs controlling the channels’ intensity or the modification they are always (re)set to zero when starting the box or changing the channel. When the channels’ intensity is zero, you can twist the knob counter clock-wise without changing the intensity. I would recommend always turning the know to the 6-o’clock position which with all my other power boxes is associated with the zero position. When starting from this position it takes four complete turns from 0 to the max level of 99. So when starting out at the zero position you have some rough idea in the intensity region you are by just feeling the indicator of the knob. When you turn the knob to quickly the box won’t recognize the input so pace yourself a bit. When you want to punish your sub quickly, press the boost button which will increase the output power on both channel by 25% as long as the button is pressed.

Program Number Program Name Sensation Modify Know Effect
P1 Smooth Continuous output with a prickling sensation Changing of the frequency
P2 Caress A synchronous pulse on both channels which sweeps up and down Adjusting the sweep rate cycle between 0.25 and 20 sec
P3 Swinger An asynchronous pulse on both channels which sweeps up and down Adjusting the sweep rate cycle between 0.25 and 20 sec
P4 Burst Burst of selected intensity and then dropping to zero again. The intensity can only be adjusted during the burst Adjusting the burst rate cycle between 0.25 and 10 sec
P5 Alternate Alternating firing of the channels. The intensity can only be adjusted when the channel is active Adjusting of the alteration rate cycle between 0.25 and 10 sec
P6 Stepper A pulse increasing/ decreasing in three steps. While one channel increases the other decreases. Variation of the pulse frequency
P7 Shooter Channels are shooting alternating pulses Number of pulses per burst can be selected between 1 and 72.
P8 Auto Climb Channel 1: Once intensity is selected, the output drops to zero and starts climbing to the selected level, keeps it for 2 sec, drops to zero and start over.

Channel 2: Continuous output.

 Climbing rate per intensity level can be adjusted between 0.05 and 5 sec
P9 Climax The pulse during starts out with a high frequency and low intensity and slows down with higher intensity at the end of the cycle. Cycle rate can be adjusted between 5 sec and 6 ½ min
A1 Channel 1 Modulate Channel 1 fires according to the microphone input Increases sensitivity
A2 Channel 2 Modulate Channel 2 fires according to the microphone input Increases sensitivity
A3 Both Channels Modulte Both Channels fire according to the microphone input Increases sensitivity
L1 Channel 1 Modulate Channel 1 fires according to the line-in input Increases sensitivity
L2 Channel 2 Modulate Channel 2 fires according to the line-in input Increases sensitivity
L3 Both Channels Modulte Both Channels fire according to the line-in input Increases sensitivity

Detail of the Sockets for the Two Channels with the Adaptor to use 3.5mm Leads plugged into Channel 2

The SensaVox is one of the more powerful power boxes out there. While using the same electrodes with other power boxes I have to set their intensity to between 30% and 40% of the max output before the stimulation becomes noticeable. With the SensaVox this was the case already at between 10% and 15%. I especially enjoyed playing mind games with the boost button. It is a great basis for barter games: Either press it as long as the sub agrees to something or leave him the choice of increasing the intensity or feeling the boost. The max output compares to most elaborate power boxes but the low threshold allows for a fine adjustment and varied play.

Detail of the Sticker with the Program Names

Having been on the market for almost 10 years the programs and modification possibilities are not as sophisticated as on a way larger and more expensive ET312b. It does also not feature fancy stereo audio processing or remote control over the internet as the E-Stim System 2b. Still I love the SensaVox very much. It has no full text display which requires pressing multiple buttons at the same time to induce different levels of modification. It is easy to use and thus easy to explain to new top. The programs are fun and cover all the desired sensations. Neither I nor my testee panel really felt it was missing a stimulation pattern.

One thing which puzzled all testee panel member and me were the different audio sockets for the microphone and the line-in. Cheekily we plugged the microphone into the line-in socket and vice versa – and didn’t recognize a difference. So if you ever spotted a difference between the two sockets, please send me an e-mail.

Conclusion: Powerful and easy to use power box with many way to modify the stimulation.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Powerful and finely adjustable Knobs don’t react when turning quickly ElectraStim

Mr S

 389€

$448.95
Boost button
Diverse programs
Audio Input
Comes with many accessories for audio play

Fist Mitts “San Francisco”

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The Meo Padded & Lockable Fist Mitts „San Francisco“

Vendor: Meo

Construction

In order to create a tight and confining bondage experience these mitts have two distinct parts which are covered by one large piece of leather. The upper 2/3 is thickly padded. The padding covers a leather-lined pouch. It is so short and tight that when putting the mitts on the sub is forced to form a fist. The lower 1/3 is a wide cuff which covers the entire wrist. There is a wide strap of Velcro going down all the way to the pouch for opening the cuff wide, allowing for easy entry and tight closing of the cuff. Onto this part a belt is riveted. Between the rivets there are two welded D-rings per mitt. The belt is closed with a roller buckle and can be locked with locking posts. The mitts come with a pair of keyed alike locks.

Detail of the Locking Posts, Roller Buckle and D-Rings

Playing with it

The first thing you notice when you put these mitts on is the tightness. If you don’t form a fist while putting them on the locking belt won’t close. With other restraints people with slim fists can wiggle out despite the belts being tightly closed. But with these mitts the opening of the pouch is so tight that one the fist is locked in place there is no getting out creating an inescapable bondage experience. The tightness comes with a price though: The mitts are one size fits all. If the sub has larger hands (glove size 8 ½ and up) or his hands don’t collapse much he will have really problems getting these mitts on. The hard clinging of the large hands can cause circulation problems over time despite the mitts being quite comfortable.

Detail of the Velcro Cuff Adjustment

Through the forced fist forming and the thick padding these mitts effectively render the sub’s hands useless. He might be able to somehow hold a large, not to heavy object like a gym bottle between his hands so he can take of his hydration on his own. But that is as good as it is going to get. With the hands being rendered useless this just leave the feet and mouth as a means to escape from these mitts. I put one of my testees in them who is a real escape artists but he could not open the restraints so the locking posts are really just a nice psychological touch, adding to the felt bondage experience. Your sub won’t get out of them anyway.

The thick padding – especially at the front – and the loss of the power to grab things made these mitts quite popular with the pet players in my test panel. Like animals most the absence of thumbs force the pet to rely on his handler to grab things. The padding is thickest at the top so the mitts are good for walking on all fours. The leather is a bit stiffer, more dressed and treated than I wanted it to be on high quality bondage gear; I prefer a more natural feel with a rich leather scent. But this sturdier kind of leather treatment is good when playing outside like at street fairs when rough surfaces like tarmac or gravel would damage softer leather.

Conclusion: Very constrictive bondage mitts
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Really and strongly constricting bondage mitts One size fits all might be too small for people with large hands Meo 129€
Thickly padded
Leather quality could be a bit better
Lockable
Disclaimer: This toy was sent to me by Meo for an honest and unbiased review.

 

Dr. Sado Silicone Sounds

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The Dr. Sado Silicone Sounds

Vendor: Meo

Construction

The sounds are made out of black high quality silicone. They are very flexible, quite soft and have a smooth surface without a seam you sometimes see on silicone anal toys for example. Their front is a bit tapered for easy insertion. At the end there is a cube shaped appendix which keep the sound from slipping in all the way and make controlling the toy a little bit more easy even with lubey fingers. The total lengths of the sounds are 350mm and are available in diameters from 3.5mm to 11.5mm. The larger the diameter the larger the cube at the end so the insertable length decreases a bit with raising diameter.

The Dr. Sado Silicone Sounds are so flexible you can tie various knots into them

Playing with Dr. Sado Silicone Sounds

These sounds are perfect for intense sounding scenes. The length in combination with slightly squishy material allows playing with parts of the urethra a metal sound could never reach. The friction and stretching sensation deeper inside than any metal sound can reach alone is interesting enough for experienced sounders. Since the silicone sounds are a little bit more ridged and through the cube at the end more easily controllable than a catheter tube they are good toys to prepare a novice for this kind of play. Once deep inside the sounds are long and flexible enough to play with the bladder’s sphincter and once penetrated with the inner side of the prostate. Since a sterile environment is paramount when fisting (see last paragraph) I would not recommend stimulating the prostate on both sides with a sound and a finger up the ass at the same time. Despite being made out of super smooth silicone the surface is still a bit “dull” and will never be as smooth as metal so I recommend using more lube than usually.

Detail of the Sounds‘ Tapered End for Easy Insertion

For choosing the right sound size two things should be considered: A too thin sound will be “spikey” and a little bit more difficult to insert; a too thick one won’t fit because the urethra has not been pre-stretched far enough. I have gotten three sounds with the diameter of 4.5mm, 5.5mm and 7.5mm which cover the most common diameters for sounding.

I would not recommend these sounds for beginners, especially when sounding on your one instead of getting sounded. When having lubey fingers through their length they are a bit hard to handle at times. Since they are light and a bit soft they have to be pushed in actively, requiring the sub to know the difference between a “good” and a “bad” stretching pain. For beginners I recommend stainless steel sounds. Simply put them into the tip of the dick until the first sphincter and let the weight of the sound do the work of gradually sinking in.

Detail of the Cube Shaped Appendix which prevents the Sounds from Disappearing into the Dick

One of the most important things when it comes to sounding is sterilization. Failing to play with sterile toys and lube and in an unclean environment can lead to nasty infections! Since these sounds are made out of silicone flaming them is not an option. To be absolutely after using them, wash them carefully with dish soap and then put them into boiling water for 10 minutes. Store them carefully apart from each other and not touching other toys in a clean environment to prevent plasticizers from harming the silicone. Right before I recommend cleaning them again. Silicone attracts dust as almost nothing else and dust doesn’t belong in a urethra! After washing them just with water and drying them, they should be sprayed with a skin-friendly sanitizer and wipe it off afterwards using a paper towel. For inserting them into a urethra use sterile lube. Friends of mine have been very satisfied with Meo’s VERYDEEP sterile lube. However since I am overly cautious, I do not trust sterile lube once opened, so for every scene I use a new sachet of sterile lube you can buy in pharmacies. I would only recommend using water-based lube and thus relube regularly during a long scene. Silicone lube will break down the material of the silicone sounds. Furthermore the ingredients of medical water-based lube are designed to be absorbed and processed by the human body so after some time there will be no lube left in the urethra unlike silicone lube which can linger than until everything has been pissed out.

Conclusion: Long and flexible sounds for intense play of sounding pros.
Pro Cons Where to get Price
Very long and flexible to stimulate parts inside the penis a metal sound could never reach Difficult to control when lubed up despite the cube appendix Meo  36€ – 49€
Appendix which keeps sound from sliding into the dick completely
Silicone attracts dust easily so more scene preparation required than with metal sounds
 Disclaimer: This toy was sent to me by Uberkinky for an honest and unbiased review.

 

ElectraStim SensaVox Unboxing

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The carrying case in which the ElectaStim SensaVox comes.

After three E-Stim Specials there stream of questions which box is good doesn’t stop. So one box after another I am trying to still your thirst of opinion on the basis of every good e-stim scene. As a nice surprise after a very stressful week at work I got the ElectraStim SensaVox in the mail yesterday.

The interior of the ElectraStim SensaVox carrying case.

It is their top of the line power box. So let’s see what can be found in the black, foam padded plastic case which has a little storage compartment for leads and toys, a battery and the jacket-adapter.

The ElectraStim SensaVox E-Stim Power Box

The SensaVox itself measures 143x78x33mm and weights 200g without a battery. On the top left there is the power soft-touch button, in the middle the rotary control to modify the programs and on the top right the boost button. Below them symmetrically laid out are the rotary controls for the two channels and the display for the intensity setting. Right in the middle of the box the are the two soft-touch buttons for the program selection and the display for the current program is between them.

The ElectraStim SensaVox’s Power Supply with the Adapters for different Socket Systems

The box can either be plugged into the socket. It comes with a power unit with adapters for the four major socket layouts.

The Battery which comes with the ElectraStim SensaVox

If you want to be mobile like on parties, it can also run on battery. So when buy on the run to a play party you can have fun out of the box.

Two 2mm jack to 2mm pin leads

Since it is a dual channel box it comes with two 120cm long 2mm plug to 2mm pin leads.

The Line-In Cable

To fully take advantage of the audio features of the SensaVox it comes with 205cm long 3.5mm jack line-in audio cable with gold plated jacks to connect your MP3 player with the box…

The 3.5mm Female-To-Female Adapter for Enhancing the Line-In Cable’s Length

a 3.5mm female to female adapter if you have you want to use the output of your stereo system and need to enhance the line-in cable length…

The Microphone which can be plugged into the 3.5mm Audio Socket

and finally a microphone to catch the sub’s or surrounding’s noises.

The CD-ROM with E-Stim Audio Tracks and Manuals in multiple Languages

For a first glimpse into the potential of box’s audio features there is a CD-ROM with a few audio tracks to be input into the box. It also contains the manual in French, German, Dutch, Spanish and Italian.

The SensaVox’s Printed Manual

The printed manual only comes in English and is full color. After a short into of how the box works, there are in-depth descriptions of every program and the way they can be modified. If you don’t have the manual with you and are in doubt there is a stick on the back of the box with a program list and a guide for which cable the different sockets around the box are.

The ElectraStim SensaVox with all the Standard Accessories

I can’t wait to spend some quality time with the SensaVox. With extensive audio features and 9 programs it promises to be great fun.

ToyTortures Top 10 Toys: HML Fetish Bondage Harness

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The HML Bondage Harness

A couple of decades when most people were into BDSM, they were into all three pair of the acronym: Bondage & Discipline, Dominance & Submission and Sadism & Masochism. People like me who just enjoy play (back than called “work”) without any aspect of being disciplined or submissive were the minority. This strict hierarchic attitude also reflected in the gear worn: One had to graduate from brown to black leather. Also there were different models for masters and slaves, the latter being equipped with anchor points for bondage. Especially in the last couple of years harnesses – especially chest harnesses – became a kinky fashion accessory (which despite not having the torso for it am also guilty of doing). I am definitely not a slave but I was always intrigued by the functionality of a slave harness.

So I got really excited when strolling through HML Fetish’s small yet exquisite store in Bremen I stumbled over a harness with D-rings. It follows the design of a traditional “slave” harness with jockstrap like straps around the ass and over the crack so the slave can only wear the harness and still be somewhat clad in leather. But what is more important for me are the D-rings: With one each on the shoulder and on the side on the level of the chest and the thigh the harness is an effective tool to bound a sub to a bed or just attach restraints when standing or walking in a bar. The many different fettering possibilities inspired me to combine a bunch of other restraints into a straitjacket-like bondage setup.

Detail of the Roller Buckle with the D-Ring

The HML Fetish Bondage Harness costs 295€ and comes in sizes from skinny to extra beefy. To learn all about this special piece of bondage gear, read my in-depth review here. If you want to do the all leather look as a slave/sub take a look at HML Fetish’s leather chastity harness.

Episode 1: Mr S Bishop Head Harness

Episode 2: ErosTek ET232

Episode 3: E-Stim System Electrodes

Episode 4: DeTails Flogger Set

Episode 5: Fetters Handlock

Episode 6: Sheets of San Francisco

Episode 7: Oxballs Ball Stretcher

Episode 8: Doxy Die Cast

Episode 9: Mr S Ultra Blindfold